Don't make this common ISO mistake!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 พ.ย. 2024
- Choosing the right ISO is easy if you follow these simple steps.
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Thanks for watching! ISO 64 (or the base ISO of your camera) BTW..... was the answer to the question at the start... forgot to say!
Is ‘the right/best ISO is 64’ dependent on the base iso of the camera? The maximum dynamic range for the Sony A7RV is at iso 100, and for others it can be as high as 800. Granted 64 and 100 are close, but some people will take you literally and I think a nuanced answer should take the cameras base iso into account. Or do I have it wrong?
You answered without explicitly answering just before you gave Lightroom denoise trick.
How drastic of an effect does your camera's Exposure Metering mode have when it comes to auto ISO? While I know the answer is "depends on what shot you're after", what exposure metering mode do you find is a good all-arounder?
Your cameras Base iso is a better answer!
@@nitewrtrr2560 how is it affected by high resolution cameras. Since transitioning from a73 to a7rV I have struggled with sharpness due to iso
The best thing I got out of this was a single sentence. "Take a lot of shots of a subject using different ISO`s to see what you get". That`s the best advice you can give anyone who is worried about ISO and noise. Me personally, I have been doing photography for over 40 years and I don`t care a jot about the ISO as long as my shutter speed and depth of field are where I want them.
Great discussion. I was afraid of high ISO except for my star photography. After a Photo Conference in March talking to several pro landscape photographers, and now you hitting this topic. I will no longer fear high ISO to "get the shot". Thanks. All the best to you and get your body back in good shape. Health is more important than "the shot".
A few months ago I changed to auto ISO and a faster set shutter speeds when hand held, I always use Aperture Priority it was a massive improvement on some of my old settings, however I change these settings when my camera is on a tripod! My camera is quite old now and I have no plans of upgrading just for the sake of the latest tech (its an age thing) I found your advice in this video very interesting and you spoke so that it was easy to understand, I do like that noise reduction setting, thank you so much, I hope you get over your health problems soon. Thank you.
Hi Nigel, hope your back gets better soon and you can get back out there and capture some amazing photos.
1:47 “It’s the shot that counts.” Exactly!! I’m a college photography instructor, and previously taught at a private photography school, and on the wall we had a 50” (1.27m) wide print. That print was flawless landscape, photographed by the founder of the school on either a 6MP Canon 10D or 8MP Canon 20D camera (it was in 2004 and he couldn’t recall which camera he had on that trip). It was always our example of, when shot right, and handled right in post, and then printed right… it’s the shot that counts.
Wow, can we see it on internet?
Ah Sundays 09:00 not a better feeling than watching Nigel with a coffee ❤
Take care with your back, recovery is so important as my wife will tell you. She has fractured it twice in the last 15months. Look forward as always to your videos whether or not it is your trips or camper van.
So great to see you back producing photography videos! I’ve been missing these learning experiences! Sorry to hear about your back! Take care of yourself! Thanks for taking me along!
Worked as a assistant for a great commercial photographer back in the mid-80s to early 90s...you shot with whatever ASA (ISO) film you had in the camera; occasionally you asked the lab to pull or push the film during processing (up to 4 stops!) to extend the range. My film of choice was Kodachrome 25 - talk about limitations! Photographers in this digital era have just so many options, and if the original capture isn't technically perfect, then there's always post-production (no auto-ISO in those film days haha)
Loved all the examples; makes the concept easier to understand. I'm sorry to hear about your back, Nigel. I had a spinal fusion in Aug. 2022 and, while I'm mostly pain-free now, I don't think I'll pick up my clubs again. You've helped confirm that a golf swing isn't a good plan for my vertebrae now.
Hey Nigel, thanks for confirming what I am doing. I generally put my camera in manual mode to control A & S but with auto ISO. When conditions are right, the ISO is set at 64 and use A priority. Love your videos and the information you share.
Hope. Your back is soon better. Looking forward to seeing more about the van.
The most important lesson from the entire video: it’s all about the results. Even if you find out, later, that the image was made with a less expensive camera.
I think that it is simple: Expose so that You get the best possible result in camera then You have the best starting point for post processing.
I must say when I watched your adventures on the West coast of Ireland last autumn that auto ISO became one of my favourite takeaways in recent years. So obvious, yet it had never really occured to me as an option - all the more so now that the noise reduction in LR and Camera RAW is so much better.
I couldn't agree more, Nigel! I've adhered to that policy for at least the last ten years regarding ISO. I hope your back improves without the need for further surgery, because it if it doesn't you'll be in serious trouble, not least with your surgeon!
Very helpful , hope you recover easily. Looking forward to next video.
On my D850 I set the shutter speed and aperture in manual mode but I set the ISO to auto. This allows freedom to compose and shoot without worrying about that third factor. If you do anything else, you will either have to set the ISO to what the camera would have chosen automatically, or you don't get the shot. So using auto-ISO makes so much sense. If you need to adjust exposure a bit you can use exposure compensation. Any noise that arises can be reduced in software like the amazing Topaz Denoise. Again, if you don't allow the ISO to rise you won't get the right exposure and you won't get the shot. It's really a no-brainer. The only time I fix the ISO is if I want the exact same settings for indoor sequences or focus blending, and also evening-night shots on a tripod get a fixed ISO for more control. Thanks for the great overview Nigel!
Thanks for correct explanation of ISO "Applied Gain" because still today most have it wrong and explain it wrong also! Today with LR and PS all this stuff is correctable I like to use AP at 7.1 Auto Iso max 800 stopped up 1 stop which works for me in most cases during daylight hours
Thank you, Nigel. You explained it very clearly, and I hadn't heard it that way before. I understand it much better now. I think I'll be using automatic ISO much more often and will choose the aperture and shutter speed myself. Thanks again for the excellent explanation.
"Get the shot" is the number one rule, I guess. And "keep shooting" to gain experience and get to know your camera... Thanks again Nigel! Great advices as always!
That shot at 06.50 is incredible. They're all beautiful, but that one in particular stands out for me.
Thank you! Best wishes for speedy back recovery.
Great explanation, thank you Nigel. Sorry to hear about your back. Recover quickly.
Always a wonderful day when I see that you've posted a new video! I hope you feel better soon!
The best way to define shadow noise is the amplification of nothingness. If contrast of the scene exceeds the range of sensor, such in the front of a subject backlit by the sun, so few photons hit the sensor in the darkest shade objects all the analog all there is to amplify with ISO is whatever residual charge there is there from the previous exposure.
I spot metered for the Zone System for thirty years but for the past twenty-four since getting my first digital camera with histogram and highlight warning I: 1) set aperture for desired DOF; 2) shutter to eliminate camera shake blur (e.g. 1/focal length), then; 3) adjust ISO until the highlight warning is triggered in non-specular white object then back off 1/3 stop.
The highlight warning is based on the playback JPG and there is a bit more headroom on the RAW but 1/3 under on the playback is a hedge against blowing out the Zone 9 white and losing the shape defining Zone 10 specular reflection in the image.
When it comes to exposure many do not realize a white object should not be 255 in a digital rendering. 255 must be reserved for the specular reflection on the white object or else the clue to 3D shape the Zone 9 solid white / Zone 10 specular is lost. So always err on the side of under exposure and when feasible bracket exposure. I worked in the National Geographic photo labs from 1974-77 and knew some of the staff photographers and photo editors. It wasn’t unusually for a photographer to shoot several 36 exp. rolls of Kodachrome for each photo, bracketing exposures and shooting from various points of view. Even then sometimes the the photo editors after reviewing what was sent in would send instructions and notes requesting a re-shoot.
The left side of the histogram will reveal if the scene exceeds sensor AFTER the highlights are exposed optimally via “blinkies minus 1/3 stop”. In landscape photography the dynamic range of a cross-lit scene will nearly always exceed the range of the sensor so it is worth the effort to bring a stout tripod so HDR can be used in post processing.
For moving subjects in direct sunlight the best strategy is to shoot into the sun using it as “rim” light and keeping any white clothing and skin sun hits 1/3 below clipping with Shutter and ISO and then add flash to the shaded front on the same downward angle as the skylight if you want a natural looking seamless match of both shadow and where on the 3D faces and objects the specular highlights fall. Flash looks “fake” when the specular highlights it creates are unnaturally low. I always carried a pair of speed-lights when shooting outdoors. photo.nova.org/OutdoorLighting/
Thank you for your generous sharing of your knowledge.
Thank you Nigel - a bunch of great reminders here.
I hope your back is mending. What a lot of bother our bodies are from time to time!
Looking forward to seeing what's up with the van!
Few words on that "amplification" topic, often misunderstood:
In digital cameras, primarily analog (not digital!) amplification is used from ISO 100 to approximately ISO 1600 (depends on the camera). At ISO 1600 and above, digital amplification is added on top. While you can apply digital amplification later in your RAW development software, you cannot compensate for the lack of analog amplification. Analog amplification generally introduces less noise compared to digital amplification because analog-to-digital converters (ADCs) have certain noise floors. Analog amplification helps keep that noise level lower relative to the useful signal before the signal is converted into digits.
Therefore, it's not a good idea to keep the ISO sensitivity low as a precautionary step to save every possible highlight, thinking you could amplify the rest later. Not only will you get more noticeable noise, but bit depth could also suffer. After you have set your desired shutter speed and aperture, increase the ISO as high as possible (without causing unrecoverable clipping - you need to determine the safe level of clipping for your camera). Auto ISO usually works well for this purpose.
I laughed out loud at the blurry puffin 🤣 ...I have so many like that
Get well soon! Thank you so much for your photography tips, as always super helpful!
Thanks Nigel, very well explained.
I've watched a few of these 'iso mistake' videos, and too often they don't seem to cover the lesser known caveats like importance of light (if and when you can), DR, invariance and older tech - not everyone is using the latest and greatest.
Thanks for the informative video, Nigel! I still think "film speed" when anyone speaks of ISO:) Please take all the time you need to heal, your health comes first!! Sending up extra prayers for you, from here in the USA
So sorry to hear you hurt your back. Hope it feels better soon.
Thank you so much Nigel, very helpful and informative tutorial on ISO! God bless and good luck on your photography journey!
As ever, great update and food for thought. More please 👍👏. Hope the back problems ease and you get back to normal.
Very interesting with the ISO. Thanks so much. Hope you're feeling better 🙏
Great video Nigel, ISO covered extremely well and in simple terms with true life images to better understand and see. Well done and TY
Thanks for another great video. With the great noise reduction in Lightroom and Topaz, I have gotten a bit lax about high ISO. I hadn’t thought about the dynamic range concern before so will need to go back to being more mindful.
Hi Nigel, So sorry to hear you hurt your back again. Thank you for a really interesting and useful video.
Auto ISO for me for ages now whenever Im handheld. I play with shutter speed and aperture to get the image I want and simply watch the ISO value. If it wanders too high i figure out where I am willing to compromise. Its such a freeing approach. That said, AI denoise in LR and Luminar Neo are now so good it is 'almost' a non issue.
I am sure we will see the processing power of cameras and software improve in the very near future to the point where noise is automatically managed out and we can forget about it.
ISO is a quite complicated subject because what this setting does varies between cameras. Some cameras apply analogue gain, some cameras apply digital multiplication and some do nothing at all other than underexpose then set a metadata tag to tell the raw convertor to compensate. And some do different things at different settings in the range. Some dual gain cameras basically have two different base ISOs. One thing to bear in mind with "ISOless" cameras, is there is a penalty to pay from dialling in higher ISO settings because the extra gain pushes the highlights into clipping. You can shoot at base ISO, then brighten in post or you can boost ISO on the camera, both will give you about the same noise. But boosting the gain in camera costs you 1 stop of dynamic range for each doubling of ISO by boosting the highlights into clipping. If DR is a concern, you are best just underexposing and boosting in post, there is no noise penalty.
I sort of like ISO noise in some images. On Fujifilm, the ISO noise even makes the images seem a bit more natural, almost film like.
Another great video Nigel. Put your feet up and relax. Plenty of rest for your bad back.
I shoot with a D610, and, many times, I happen to prefer shooting underexposed with low ISO and then control the "negotiation" between increasing exposure and the emergence of noise in lightroom. I always wondered if it's a bad habit. Thank you for pointing me to ISO invariance. I have checked it out and understood the choice it's a bit nuanced and depends on the specific model..
It seems like there is a small variance in my camera, but i'd say it's almost negligible. At the end, half a stop of noise does not make a photo good or bad.
Shooting with a reflex the control on the perfect exposure is not as straightforward since you cannot check the istogram in real time so i'm fine knowing that even if it's a bit off i can address that in postproduction.. I'm also usually more concerned with burning the highliths than underexposing the shadows.
thank for heads up with the iso
Some good tips in here Nigel. Thank you. Hope your back is better soon.
Wonderful video and examples. Important to go into detail regarding ISO in terms of focal length as well.
Shooting bright northern lights is better at a lower iso on an iso invarient camera because it protects the highlights - especially in the green channel.
Really enjoy that. Get that back in working order!
Great tips on ISO, Nigel. Being retired I'm able to get out with my camera more. I can't always get out into Derbyshire, so I've been doing street photography around my home city of Sheffield. I have been experimenting with changing the ISO and /or the aperture to see what results I get from shooting the same scene. My camera is a Panasonic Lumix and it has a limited dynamic range and limited noise tolerance, so it's often a juggling act to make the best out the limitations. I've had the camera for about five years now and I've got a pretty good feel for what I need to do under different subject and lighting conditons. I've found that much of the secret is to get to know your camera well. I feel I know mine well and sometimes it feels strange if I go out of the house and I don't have the camera with me. I've found that sometimes the best shots are the ones I didn't expect, and experiencing the sadness of not having my camera with me. I bought a Nikon D800 and 17-35 mm Nikkor Wide Angle a wee while ago from 'mpb'. I don't go out with it as often as I do with the Lumix because it's a bit chunky and heavy and I'm struggling a bit to get used to it. The sensor is great and it has greater dynamic range than the Lumix. But it feels like a different animal and I'm probably not doing the D800 justice. Looking forward to seeing your video from the NE, Nigel; Joe Cornish country. Hope your back mends, try pilates that might help to get things loose.
I have a Z7ii and you can actually set it below base ISO by a stop. I'm not sure what this does, but I use it mainly to get a slower shutter speed.
One more little thing, certain cameras have a better dynamic range at certain iso, you can check yours at the photons to photo website. My Pentax K3 iii for instance has half a stop better dynamic range at 400 iso than 100.
This is a really great video explaining it all... bookmarking it to share with beginners.
I shoot with a Fuji XT5 and a 100-400 f/4.5-5.6 lens about 85% of the time with birds and wildlife. I tend to shoot at a shutter speed of 1/2000-1/4000 most of the time when there’s action. My 3 auto iso settings are max 800, 3200, and 12,800 that I bounce around between, depending on my lighting conditions. I don’t tend to worry that much about iso. The images I have that are a bit grainy still look great and add character to the image. It’s better for me to have a bit of grain than to not have the shot at all. I can always clean it up a bit if it’s too rough in post.
That being said, for people who get worried about raising your iso, get the shot and enjoy the process. When I used to worry about my iso, I got drastically less keepers and I wasn’t enjoying my shooting experience as much. Now that I have more keepers, I can edit and hone in my editing skills more. Take the shots and have fun with it. If the shot calls for less iso, then do what you can, but don’t be afraid to turn it up a little if need be.
Ah, the exposure triangle!... Shutter speed, Aperture & ISO... Adjusting the three controls to obtain the result you're looking for. Here's the rub, having the skills, knowledge and experience in knowing how to make the right choice of settings to reach that final image. One of the reasons why photography is such a wonderful art form. Great knowlege and information! Thanks Nigel. Lots of noise in your images isnt always a bad thing, it can add to the atmosphere of the shot in some cases. (Oh dear, Golf and Fog, not a good combination, get well soon).
F stop & Aperture are same thing..
"Shutter speed, Aperture, ISO"
Exposure triangle 🔺️
● I correct your statement, presuming you know this but mistyped, incase it's misinformation confuses new Photographers.
@@Stop-All-War You're absolutely correct.Thank you for picking up on that error. Not one of my better typing days! (Error corrected.).
I love the denoise feature, for me shooting with a Canon 550D, it’s almost like getting an upgrade in camera/lens.
True, i also have a lot of photos taken over the years that might benefit from a new edit with this instrument. These days i've experimented with the generatove removal as well, and that's also extremely efficient.
@@enricozetti yes I’ve used that too, it’s a positive use of AI that saves what can be a very long and tedious process of cloning. Not too convinced on the lens blur feature yet, think I prefer to achieve that in camera.
I'm old school and think of ISO as film speed, lower the clearer. Landscapes I get the shutter speed and aperture correct then last set the iso. Wildlife use auto iso.
ASA
@@v50-vertical and I thought I was old.🤣🤣🤣
Great explanation. The image at 8:22 is fantastic.
I notice that you have only a dislike icon, which I checked by mistake, but want you to know IJ thoroughly enjoyed your tutorial and perspective.
hope the back eases off NIgel and nice to hear your planning release an amended video schedule
For Landscape I am a 100 ISO shooter. If I use a fast prime during the day wide open I use my lowest ISO just so I can get the shutter speed with out a ND filer.
What no cap? Interesting thoughts now getting back into this hobby with a Zed8 and all its numerous settings certainly need the benefit of your vlogs. Currently in search of a good interesting deciduous wood to stalk for some photos. Keep em coming Nige but the van takes priority.
I think you've made a very good point here and something that I've burned myself with thinking that the lowest cleanest ISO is best... not always. What I should have been thinking is what is the cleanest ISO that (in my particular case) will get me the sharpest shot? And sometimes that's not always the lowest ISO given certain circumstances like windy conditions. So really I think people shouold look more at shutter speed (and aperture) and THEN look at ISO to determine what they need that to be in order to get the shot they want (deep DOF, movement, no movement, etc). In my opinion, ISO should be your last decision you make after you've selected and aperture and/or shutter speed.
I would say with modern cameras, shooting at high ISO like 3200 or 6400 and apply some AI noise reduction you sh ouldn't worry too much about noise at higher ISOs and should focus on getting the shot (and if you desire, a sharp one, not a soft image). I think a lot of this does go back to say 10 years ago when shooting at ISO 1600 meant a grainy image on some of the older digital cameras. I remember a comment one person said during a seminar once and it's very true (for the most part): "We can fix a noisy image, but we can't really fix a soft/blurry shot" (while this is mostly true, there are obviously tools that can address this, but I'd rather have more noise to deal with than a blurry image to try to recover). Chances are the noisy image can be cleaned up with a minimal amount of artifacts and drawbacks than a blurry image that you have to try to run through a sharpening tool like Topaz Sharpen, which usually has some compromises and sometimes can't get the job done if the blur is too much. So it's best to shoot at a higher ISO and deal with the noise in post, than try to get a cleaner but potentially softer image in camera.
The other thing is that a lot of people like to say "Well, at base ISO the camera can do say 12 stops of dynamic range" and while that may be true, I usually go by about 5 stops. And the reason I bring this up is because while the statement may be true about modern cameras and dynamic range, it's a bit risk to try to pull out a lot of stops of DR out of shadow areas for example, and for me, if the scene is more than about 5-stops of DR, then I bracket (if it's a static scene). Perhaps a bit of old fashioned thinking, and it'sa bit more work in post, but it's less risky IMO for static scenes and you kind of get better overall IQ I feel especially if the DR is large (shadows can start to look muddy if you try to bring them up by a large amount, and highlights can start to take on a grey-ish appearance if you try to bring them down too much).
I always struggle on the best ISO to use and this makes sense. How about a video about exposure compensation as I always get it the wrong way
Thank you for the great tips on ISO. Take care of your back. 🙏
An unexpected Sunday treat. Tricky subject, well explained. Carry on. 👍🥂
First off, I hope the back eases up, nothing worse than being in pain, especially back pain. I see I've been beaten to it regarding iso 64! My Pentax K1ii has a base ISO of 100 and my Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark iii has a base ISO of 200 😜
Great video Nigel have missed my Sunday morning fixes.
I hope your back heals quickly!
Nigel, get well soon !
It would be interesting to rate large prints made with low and high ISO and do the same test adding DXO Pure Raw 4 before printing.
Very useful video, thank you Nigel!
I try to stay as close to my SONY a7r4 base ISO of 100 or 640 which is its second base or best for dynamic range
Thanks for such a great, simple explanation!
lol I asked the question on your last video. I didn't understand why force the iso 64. Part of the confusion is because overall on your videos, the vast majority of photos are iso 64 and in some situations the long shutter speed felt risky. That's from the point of view of someone who is not in that location with you.. I'm sure you can now if the wind speed is too strong when you are in location.
A purely ISO invariant camera has yet to be created. The images will be similar but the image adjusted in post will almost always have more noise than the one out of camera. However it's the sort of noise you'd only notice by pixel peeping or if doing major shifts, say more than four or five EV. Often these shifts create more of a color cast. It really depends on the camera.
Also, many cameras now have two or more base ISOs. For example 100 and 800 is common.
As you noted, the science behind this is complex, but it comes down to analog to digital conversion and specifics of the actual sensor that are not factored in the raw image. Bumping the gain on the original analog signal is going to often be more effective than doing so on an image that's already been converted to a digital format.
When I first switched to a "ISO invariant camera" (quotes only because it wasn't purely ISO invariant again) I started relying on the ISO invariance and started getting burned by it. Especially as the dynamic range drops.
Case in point what Nigel says holds true, more often than not it's best to shoot at the ISO needed not the lowest ISO. I mostly take advantage of ISO invariance when I want to preserve areas that would otherwise be blown out, when I'm seeking HDR from a single shot.
Hope you get better soon. Thanks for this. May I ask, if it wasn't for "DeNoise" or "Topaz DeNoise", would you worry more about ISO? Also, for cropping, ISO sucks. Important to get the composition right at the original shot. Thanks, Nigel. No more golfing!
No - I wouldn't. To be honest when printed most images look amazing. People worry too much about pixel peeping...
@@NigelDanson Thank you for the reply. That's good information to know. Appreciate your time. :)
Amazing we have ability to select ISO. In film days it was think ahead lighting conditions, load a more appropriate film and ISO was locked unless you pushed film in development.
grazie Nigel sempre video interessanti, aspettu tutti quelli del van..😉
. Great film Nigel, Need to see more camper updates! 👏👍😀
Thank you so much for a great video!
Thanks
Hey, Nigel, actually the Z8 and Z9 sensor does appear to have two curves, one at base 64, and the other at 500. So, your example of 400 pushed to 1600 won't be as good as shooting natively at 1600. Shooting at 500 should be the same at 1600. So, not totally ISO invariant. At least per Dxomark measurement of the sensor... (Unless I'm misinterpreting the curve). Hope your back improves!
The most important consideration when shooting at high ISO is getting the exposure right in camera and not in post. The mistake people make is to try to not to raise the ISO too high and then compensate for the underexposed image in Lightroom. This will result in a far inferior image than if you shoot at a higher ISO in camera with the correct exposure.
So, you will get a cleaner, better image if you shoot at ISO 12 800 with the correct exposure in camera than shooting an underexposed image at ISO 6 400 and raise the exposure in Lightroom. This is where most people go wrong at high ISO. The underexposed image at ISO 6 400 will have far more noise and loss of detail than the correctly exposed image at ISO 12 800.
Oh, I shoot a Z8 and get excellent wiledlife images at ISO 12 800 and above. I always shoot with auto ISO unless shooting landscape on a tripod.
I was shooting dragonflies in flight yesterday with my OM-1, manual auto ISO. Shutterspeed 1/6000 to 1/8000 of a sec to freeze the wings. At those speeds the ISO is never low.
A very helpful video thank you.
Z8/Z9 are ISO invariant at ISO 500. Any reason to not use ISO 500 rather than use base ISO of 64 if you want to use a higher shutter speed?
agree anything upto 1000 iso is fine, only when it gets to the thousands do you have to think about it. Which woud you prefer a blur photo or one with some noise.
Hass X series (X2 and 100c) has native ISO 64 - Leica has 50
Between my Z7ii and Lightroom’s Denoise. I’ve gotten very free with my ISO settings lately. That certainly was not true with my old D5300 where anything over 400 was clearly a desperation shot.
Great video mate.
Hope your ok soon with your back.
Great video, Nigel Great fan of your channel and what you do. As a "serious" amateur with a scientific background, I very much appreciate your explanation of using the "exposure triangle" . Most of my photography in the SE of the USA is focussed on wildlife (it's basically a photographic landscape photography desert here) and, indeed, shutterspeed, is often the most important component of the 3 possible setting ( I pretty much always have it on auto ISO with "no limit"..... setting a limit is really pretty much useless in the conditions I shoot). I often end up with images with some noise. I prefer TopazDenoise to reduce the noise.... love that software and believe it is quite a bit better than the LR version. For everything else, I indeed use LR. So sorry to hear about your back (again).... I know it is difficult, but perhaps you should stay away from certain activities that can aggravate the situation. Best wishes!!
Summary: getting the shot with fast enough shutter and right aperture is more important than using low ISO. But if you have the chance to use longer exposures to lower ISO, do it.
Id say if exposure is fine, it does not matter if we used even 25k on todays MRLSs especially ones with lower amont of pixels.
The video is mostly technically correct. ISO on digital camera IS GAIN. I'm a chemical engineer and if someone says it's not I not even listen to. ISO being a gain means it's just a factor mathematically multiplying other numbers. Therefore, speed, dof should decide any iso you need except if you clip shadow or highlights. If no clip takes place use any on modern cameras (old ones used to produce particularly noise and color deviation). Besides these factors, only particularly situations where you need extremely dynamic range you should use low ISO. As I agree with Alyn comment on that in a video, the higher ISO you don't clip anything the better since today's cameras are iso invariant. High iso don't produce more noise. It just SHOWS it since it's a gain. Take lower iso with same other parameters and push Lightroom exposure slide up will produce the same noises to appears. That's why being only gain, iso DON'T CHANGE A SINGLE PHOTON captured. It's different from film where iso means changing on sensibility what is possible only changing the medium of capture (it would be equivalent of changing the sensor). On films the higher sensibility means the same amount of photons implies higher advance on the chemical reaction. Actually, NOISE DOESN'T exist on films. Grain and noise are completely different. They only had in common to appear on shadows. The point of low iso on digital cameras is that some exposures need more dynamics range or high exposure time and not because of noise.
Is there a video where you go over your Nikon Z8 camera settings for photography?
Please look after your back x I've had two back operations so I understand x
I used to shoot sports using ISO 400. Why? Because that's what Tri-X film was. On one bright sunny day I was shooting a soccer game at ISO400, and it suddenly occurred to me that with my camera (Canon 1DX) there is effectively no noise at ISO1600. I changed to ISO1600 and picked up two stops of either shutter speed or aperture, and the stuff looked great. Then I discovered DXO PrimeRaw3 (now PrimeRAW4) which both sharpens and removes noise. This used to be a contradiction of terms. You could sharpen, which increased noise, or you could reduce noise and add softness. PrimeRaw4 fixed this, and in my opinion is notably better than what's in Lightroom. In any case I shot volleyball this past year at ISO 25600 and there's NO noise. Now if I'm talking to sports photographers, and photographers in general, I stress that they don't have to be afraid of high ISO's any more.
Nice video. I have a side comment. I have the PeakDesign strap attachments like you show, but I have one on the left side of the camera and the other in the middle on the bottom, attached to the PeakDesign Arca adapter plate. I find it makes the camera hang MUCH nicer on my hip (left hip for me) using the neck strap mounted like that. I wonder if you or others have tried that setup? I also find my Z8 reliably goes into sleep mode on the left hip, but not on the right. I guess the eye sensor gets confused? My Z50 doesn't have that problem, but I hang them both on the left anyway. So many little details to figure out in this hobby :-)
Thanks for this. As a follow-up question, I wonder what visual artifacts are associated with dynamic range. Well, contrast of course and subtle variations in tone, but what else? How does it affect color for instance?
Oh, and sorry to hear about your back. Ouch!