I'm really excited for this series. It's cool to see how you can take an old car and upgrade it to make it faster and what makes the biggest differences
I'm sure i missing something... Spoiler alert! #1 Tires. #2 Weight. #3 Weight transfer - in the way you needed it most usually #1 spring rate #2 swaybar #3 then anti angles if you can adjust them (like roll-center, anti-squat, anti-dive) #4 downforce #5 shocks (would be #2 if off-road) #4 brakes (this would be #1 if your brakes are trash but if a car handles well and low weight you really not on the brakes that long).
you would probably also love hi-low by donut media then! they get two nearly identical used cars and upgrade them, one with expensive parts, and one with budget parts.
If it was top gear, then before they even got hold of the cars, they'd have decided what the times were going to be, and then they'd have just filmed a bunch of arty shots to tell that story. It became annoyingly fake. The "races" were fake - after all...the Range Rover with the camera crew in it, did the exact same route as the car/cars, the crap they built was fake in that they never built it, it was built for them, and then the script was written around it to make it look like they had some input of their own. Every drag race you see, is a compilation of clips from multiple takes, which is why the gaps keep varying from shot to shot. Same with laps of the track. Hell, I wouldn't be surprised if the power lap times were just pulled out of someone's ass and decided on, and then the Stig just drove around a few times to give them some shots
In terms of performance gain you will see the biggest gain from tyre first, then suspension, and then the modest weight reduction you get from gutting the interior. Gutting an interior is only good for 100-150lbs. Consider, can you notice a large difference when a friend is riding with you? No. You need much larger weight reduction for it's effect to be significant.
@@Levibetz Depends. I took 72kg/160 lbs out of our Suzuki Jimny and it made a huge difference to acceleration, roll through corners and fuel economy. Worth mentioning any gain is noticeable when you have 80bhp though :P
I also loved this, think that you should get 3 cars for £1000 and have £1000 to tune them concluding with a race to see who came up with the best car/tuning combination even give extra points for every pound under the £2000 they spend.
This video actually tells me a lot about how to tune a car in a racing game, what to expect from tuning each option, stiffness, ride height and something about weight distribution, it's something I am struggling with all the time, this series has been very useful for gamers like me to understand how to build a car efficiently.
it's hard, every car and drivetrain will have to be altered differently and it depends on the rest of your setup as well (i.e., midengine rwd car will be setup differently than awd front engine which will be diff from awd midengine) there's a lot of interplay with every system, not to mention your driving style takes a lot into account. doubly not to mention, every game has different levels of realism for suspension setup, some games like dirt rally 2.0 totally invert the sliders.
@@HollidaySpessa This series is amazing, they are spending real money and sharing the experience with us, experimenting, experiencing, it's not like someone presenting us with all the knowledge with no instance, it's kind of like that game forza horizon 5, building a car, not just granted a certain race car for some certain tracks like in racing simulator, the amount of knowledge during the entire process is great.
@@ashiagefa646 ...yea? im not saying otherwise, im jus saying games like forza don't have suspension models that adhere to rules of reality, esp compared to games like ACC or especially richard burns rally. it's something ull jus have to play with and learn thru experience especially, on top of stuff like this
@@HollidaySpessa actually... Forza have suspension model since Motorsport 4 That's a misconception You can't compare Forza Horizon to Acc Even Motorsport 7 since it's still based on a very old game engine
@@iamcarl4591 richard burns rally is from 2005 and blows everything out of the water lol, so age doesn't matter. something can have a suspension model and that suspension model be horrible (which forzas is because it's not a simulation, and that's ok and there's nothing wrong with it)
Notice how it's still got a heap of body roll? You've sent the roll centre through the floor by lowering it too far, it will be a lot quicker if you lift it at least an inch or go for a roll centre kit - you'll notice it drastically reduces the weight transfer, and makes the car feel a lot sharper and more responsive.
@@gazman9468 Watch the angle on the lower control arms. If the lower ball joint is not below the lower control arm's pivot points (closer to the ground) when the car is sitting on level ground then you have lowered it too far and the handling will suck.
Well, as next episode is propably already recorded my comment will be useless, but I'll write it anyway: Subarus are very front heavy but they have low center of mass. Stiffening rear sway bar is the first thing to do when you want to improve handling of them. And about next thing on the list, tires: There is no going around it, if you're going for lap times, aim for best tires you can get. With other things you can get to the point of deminishing returns, with tires better model will always give you time advantage.
@@thewen you know both of them got engine swaps, right? i'd imagine those overheating issues are more related to the engine and its cooling system rather than the actual 350z edit: ...and they each got their own upgraded radiators during the original season, so that got taken care of even before they swapped out the VQs. if you didn't actually watch their Hi/Low series, you're really missing out.
@@bobbycheese22 I actually like Driven Media’s approach of evaluating the process. I feel like the effects of the mods that they do are more clear and easy to understand.
Having lived in the rust belt (Illinois) and having to deal with rust fused and sht constantly falling in your eyes when under a car; you would be absolutely correct! Curse words, wanting to destroy stuff, wanting to set things on fire, beat sht with a sledge hammer, lay under the car for no reason, and go to a pick a part junkyard because no one has the part you want in stock unless you want to wait forever after ordering it because a bolt fkng snapped or rounded out.
Perrin or Cobb sway bars, strut tower brace, frt and rr, Enkei RPF1 wheels with Falken Azenis RT615k tires should just about wrap up your suspension needs.
I improve my car by stiffen the chassis aside from the use of adjustable coilover, with strut bars such as the one I installed are produced by the local company called ‘UltraRacing’. They produce specific multiple bars for different car models.
I got an 05 wrx, and it currently only has wheels/tire, exhaust, intake, Stage 2 clutch upgraded, and early tune. Got Brembo's for it, Turbo Inlet, and an Sti Scoop. Been Looking at suspension upgrades, so this was helpful.
Don't make the same mistake top gear did and only focus on handling and then throw like 40 extra hp at it. Gut it, get some good tires on it, some really good brake pads (because it isn't a marathon, it's a sprint) and put some power into it. It's 400hp down on the Lamborghini. 400! It's going to need a good 100+ HP and some more handling mods. Anti roll bars, tires, brake pads, brake fluid, and some good ole fucking power. Don't get wrapped up in spending the rest of that 10k on suspension. Some of that has absolutely got to go to the engine.
I'd like to see them make this work but the EJ in that Subaru is a real weak point. Anything over 300whp on the stock bottom end and it's a ticking time bomb. Might still make the lap tho, that's all that counts
biggest gains that can ever be done to get a car to go faster are good sets of Tires (depending on what size of rims are stock) after that weightreduction. but that Scoobie just a set of tires would do the biggest difference
A set of michelin pilot sport 4's wont break the bank and in my experience (had these bc's on a subaru as well) make a subaru almost stick to the ceeling
All this wagon needs is a larger stock location turbo, larger tmic, and a tune and I guarantee you this boxer motor gives that Lambo a run for it's money
My advice would be to use lightweight wheels, this would reduce unsprung weight on the suspension which will allow the spring to move up/down faster without oscillating, this will allow you to soften the dampers which improves the tyre contact on the ground. If you are going to use grippier tyres, maybe buy smaller tyres and rims since the chassis in the car might not be stiff enough to take full advantage of extra potential grip and smaller wheels are lighter than larger ones so you can reduce unsprung mass yet again.
I have a set of those BC gold BR series struts in my Lexus, hands down the best money i ever spent on making a car handle like you can corner on rails but without the clickety clack part.
With that style of coilover you don’t adjust the ride height from the spring you set the pre-lode of the spring and adjust the ride height through the base as all you doing there is limiting your shock travel and there for slowing your lap time.
You've went very low with the rideheight, and the angle af the front control arms has switched to the other side of the horizontal. You will absolutely need a roll center correction kit. You can have that either from Whiteline, or Superpro. Then, the wagon has narrower control arms, and that works in your favor. Buy a set of STI control arms, aluminium ones, they are 10mm wider, and that will increase the front camber. Be careful, there are 2 versions for those, 3.5deg caster and 5deg caster. The later one, called "spec B" control arm, can be found on the hawkeye STI, this would be the best option. Nevertheless, there are alternate ways to increase the caster. ALK is one of those, but it sucks imho, since it puts static load on the bushings. There is also a free caster mod to be done on the STI control arms, by flipping the rear pin. It does the same thing as an ALK. If you switch to STI control arms, you will need a new antiroll bar. Careful with that, they differ between the normal STI arms and the spec B ones. You can also go with STI control arms on the rear, but you will go into fender clearance issues, since the wagon has no flaring helping with wheel offset. For wheels, your best option would be the STI 5x100 wheels, 17x7.5, ET53. Or, if you keep the rear control arms, there is more flexibility to be had. DO NOT go under ET48, or you'll need to cut the lip on the rear fenders. Long story short - a 17x8, et48, on 235/40 might do the trick for 300HP and also fit the rear arches, on the stock rear arms. Bracing the chassis should also be done, especially after going on the coilover route, it flexes quite a lot. MANDATORY addition - rear frame lockout bolts. Poly bushings all-around the suspension can also be of great help. There is also some transition torque lost in the soft drivetrain suspension - engine and transmission mounts, rear differential bushings. And the WRX 4-pots are quite weak. Buy a set of an STI brembos, or better yet, some BBK. Wilwood has some cheap options. Or see with AP racing, they're on the same island as you are. If the car is driven by an experienced racing driver, the current steering rack should be fine, it's a 17:1 ratio. Otherwise, good news, your car is RHD, and the JDM STI rack is readily available for a simple swap, with a much-much better ratio of 13:1. That car has the potential of being turned into a weapon, track-wise, with the right parts and setup. Edit: do NOT go over -2deg of static camber on the front, the steering rack on this car is in front of the axle, giving very weird toe on lock. On the other hand, for the caster, as much as you can.
Id invest in some harder sway bars, better wheels/tires, better brake pads, some chassis bracing, better exhaust and filter and a tune (if not getting more forced induction). These are relatively cheap mods that do the most after coilovers for your car.
based on some of the data given in the last episode I've done some calculations on power to weight ratios of both cars. The power to weight ratio of the Murcielago is almost exactly 350 bhp/tonne. If the Subaru's weight stays the same (which it presumably won't) it'll need to make just over 500bhp to match the Murcielagos power to weight, similarly if the power of the Subaru stays the same (again presumably not) the weight of the car will have to drop to around 650kg! If the lads can get the weight of the Subaru down to a somewhat reasonable 1250kg then to match the Murcielago it'd need around 440bhp. I know that power to weight ratios aren't everything in this situation, this was just a bit of fun.
Keep it up guys this is looking great. Indeed suspension is a big improvement for grip and lap times. Get better tyres, sportier brakes and finally add some extra ponies into the engine with whatever money is left
Very awesome series!! I HIGHLY recommend getting some Kosei k1 wheels if you’re going to go with a 17” they are incredibly cheap and incredibly lightweight and designed for the track. That lower unsprung mass will help a bunch
I know you’re now aware that he was talking about wheels, but performance oriented tires can’t really be expected to last more than a few years. Not if you drive your car frequently anyway :P
@@knrz2562 no anti-rollbars have a quick search online that are situated under the car 😊. That’s what I changed on my old turbo mx5 for gymkhana and made a great difference.
It makes me nervous watching them launch it hard. The tranny's in 2000's wrx's aren't known for their durability, I hope a trans rebuild won't cut into their budget.
What do you think we should upgrade next?! Suggest down below! If you haven't seen Episode 1 👉 th-cam.com/video/Y-2riLpE4qI/w-d-xo.html If you haven't seen Episode 2 👉 th-cam.com/video/kYg1PqeKbrs/w-d-xo.html
If you REALLY wanna beat that super car I suggest in upgrading your transmission ,dual exhaust may be worth the cost. air dams.hood scoop more downforce to keep the vehicle firmly planted on the road.,allowing the car to corner faster. Winter tires provide superior traction, braking,and cornering ,as well as average peak power.
So looking forward to future episodes! I had the exact same car that at tuned for light track work and mountain roads. In terms of suspension need to replace the front control arms with STI alloy control arms. The OE metal ones are trash and narrow. GC8 STI arms are direct swap and GD with give you 10mm extra front track width. Also associated swaybar upgrades help, not too stiff. Rear you need to dissemble the training arms and lateral links. OE set will be frozen in place and don't articulate properly due to age. STI at the time made pink trailing arms and lateral links with piloball bushing. Huge difference in rear stability. Also bushing STI has a Group N catalogue; rear diff assembly mount, gear box mount and engine pitch stop helped a lot in terms of drivetrain slop and helps get power down better. STI also made a underbody brace (just a pink bar) and strut brace that helped with steering feel. The above shopping list is relatively cheap but made a huge difference in handling. Man I miss that nugget
right before he took off i said to myself i'd be surprised if it gained more than a second on that track. makes no sense to expect a 2 second gain on just swapping out suspension. with the suspension upgrade the car still needs better tires, more power, weight reduction. anything else is just pissing money away. also should have done the weight reduction before setting up the suspension because now you'll just have to set the suspension up all over again after you do the weight reduction.
Tires are going to make the biggest difference I’d say, be interesting to see that episode. But ye I’d have stripped it out 1st considering it can be done for free.
I think after the tried you should just do some Wrightów reduction. I know it will hurt the practicality but it’s essentially free seconds off the laptime.
Dont draw this out to be 10eps plus keep it shorter and snappier to retain viewship. Im a new viewer from ig. Please dont do track visit for each part maybe for 2 parts. Or part and comesmetic steering wheel etc.
Pls do bracing and sway bars next. Simple bracing like bolt on strut tower bars and an X brace underneath, and super cheap sway bars. They will probably give you the most bang for your buck handling improvements after doing struts, and can be had for very cheap!
Had a set of bc coilovers years ago, they were terrible, adjustment rings are easily damaged, bearings on the front top mounts failed after 6 months, and they rust like hell, then the power coat will flake of the springs.
How the hell have I just found this channel? It's like a mashup of donut media and carthrottle. Brilliant stuff, this series will be awesome. New subscriber here 😁
Yep, suspension without a tire upgrade is often just a confidence upgrade that reduces compliance. But pair that with a set of good tires and an alignment tailored for those tires (getting the tires equally warm inside, center and outside) and there is no better bang for buck upgrade. Next, weight reduction. Only then, maybe some power adders.
hi, your coil overs are set up wrong. you need to pull them apart. set the bump etc. look up the mca suspension coil over set up video. I found 2 seconds at the track from doing this.
Shouldnt lowering the front induce understeer? Because by moving weight to the front you increase the moment of inertia and the front will tend to go straight rather than turn?
Why do you need reliable when it’s for one lap? Definitely a much better coil over though. I’m sure you could save on the budget by using the standard wheels with better tyres too
Before you do the corner weight and alignment you'll want to take the weight out of the car first. I'd also do the tyres at the same time. That will see your biggest gains in lap time I reckon. For tyres I'd personally recommend Yoko A052s.
Definitely go for damping adjustment. Or you might end up with a bouncing wheel again lol. It's not always about strength, it could be about body kinematics, I can do things my bike mechanic can't even though he's stronger than me just because my leverage ratios are better.
to be fair it also looks like he wasn't pulling the quick release for the air hose, if you dont, it'll never go in, second you pull it it goes on like butter
Don’t forget bushings, Whitline antilift kit and Short shifter with transmission Sti transmission mount👍 Wider Tires about 10-15mm wider on those 17” rims. Any more u will bounce around. Skip the clutch. Subaru transmission are garbage just deal with it and learn to be smooth! Shift that money to Turbo upgrade with ECM tuning with Bigger exhaust. You need better pads like Akibino race pads on the cheap. Or straight pipe for track use no muffler or cat. Put it back on after u win. Take out all interior extra and get weight down. Move battery to trunk passengers side if u can to distribute weight.Cusco rear strut tower mount skip the front one if u need more grip in the front. Don’t forget f/r sway bars 22mm or above. Sti here in USA is about 300hp. That turbo tune can get u to 380-425hp This will make maximum usage of the GD engine cams. Guaranteed win! Good Luck!
tyres are gonna be the big one, up to 2 seconds i reckon if they are as close to slick as drive-able on the road. nothing is going to make up the power difference out of the corners though.
There are road-legal semi-slicks (e.g. Bridgestone RE11s (which might not be road legal) and Pirelli Trofeo (which is my local racing shop's options stocks))
This content is so, so good. I know these kind of series take a lot of work and money, and we really appreciate it. I can't wait to see this one continue and see what else you have in store!
I feel guilty for everytime I bought the most expensive and customizable suspensions in Gran Turismo, only to never bother of set up them.
😆 🤣 😂 😹
So true.
"50:50 neutral is good enough for me!" lol
I only ever use it to wreck the setup of the car anyway 😁
“Oh $10k coilovers? Sure I’ll take them… oh they’re 3 way adjustable? That’s cool I guess… I need to set them up? I think not…”
I'm really excited for this series. It's cool to see how you can take an old car and upgrade it to make it faster and what makes the biggest differences
agreed
I'm sure i missing something...
Spoiler alert!
#1 Tires.
#2 Weight.
#3 Weight transfer - in the way you needed it most usually #1 spring rate #2 swaybar #3 then anti angles if you can adjust them (like roll-center, anti-squat, anti-dive) #4 downforce #5 shocks (would be #2 if off-road)
#4 brakes (this would be #1 if your brakes are trash but if a car handles well and low weight you really not on the brakes that long).
@@gatorage850 According to my countless hours on Gran Turismo 5 tires are definitely the best at improving your car😂
you would probably also love hi-low by donut media then! they get two nearly identical used cars and upgrade them, one with expensive parts, and one with budget parts.
@@jovaniortiz8317 and According to GTA off-road tires are best so you can curb boost!😉
Big old Top Gear vibes and I'm loving it! Keep this content coming please
nah, top gear was all a bit fake - this is way more enjoyable and wholesome
Top gear did an episode exactly like this, called top gear build the impossible. However, they used a Renault Avantime.
*Any time a group of three men get together to do a car challenge on TH-cam*
Comment Section: _"iTs JuSt LiKe ToP GeAr!"_
If it was top gear, then before they even got hold of the cars, they'd have decided what the times were going to be, and then they'd have just filmed a bunch of arty shots to tell that story. It became annoyingly fake. The "races" were fake - after all...the Range Rover with the camera crew in it, did the exact same route as the car/cars, the crap they built was fake in that they never built it, it was built for them, and then the script was written around it to make it look like they had some input of their own. Every drag race you see, is a compilation of clips from multiple takes, which is why the gaps keep varying from shot to shot. Same with laps of the track.
Hell, I wouldn't be surprised if the power lap times were just pulled out of someone's ass and decided on, and then the Stig just drove around a few times to give them some shots
@@shona5512 lol
Remove the interior, seats and all those dead weight. Then do the suspension tuning and tyre change.
Winter wheels
@@knrz2562 🤣🤣
In terms of performance gain you will see the biggest gain from tyre first, then suspension, and then the modest weight reduction you get from gutting the interior. Gutting an interior is only good for 100-150lbs. Consider, can you notice a large difference when a friend is riding with you? No. You need much larger weight reduction for it's effect to be significant.
@@Levibetz weight reduction is free gain. They have a tight budget.
@@Levibetz Depends. I took 72kg/160 lbs out of our Suzuki Jimny and it made a huge difference to acceleration, roll through corners and fuel economy. Worth mentioning any gain is noticeable when you have 80bhp though :P
I also loved this, think that you should get 3 cars for £1000 and have £1000 to tune them concluding with a race to see who came up with the best car/tuning combination even give extra points for every pound under the £2000 they spend.
topgear called, they want their concept back! 🤣🤣
@@_B1078_ obviously that's where idea came from but they could change it up.
Easy this one, cheap RX-8 for £500 and suspension mods and a tune 🤣 just don't let it turn off once you've got it running ahah
My old comment looks really good now🤣🤣🤣. Loved this video
This video actually tells me a lot about how to tune a car in a racing game, what to expect from tuning each option, stiffness, ride height and something about weight distribution, it's something I am struggling with all the time, this series has been very useful for gamers like me to understand how to build a car efficiently.
it's hard, every car and drivetrain will have to be altered differently and it depends on the rest of your setup as well (i.e., midengine rwd car will be setup differently than awd front engine which will be diff from awd midengine) there's a lot of interplay with every system, not to mention your driving style takes a lot into account. doubly not to mention, every game has different levels of realism for suspension setup, some games like dirt rally 2.0 totally invert the sliders.
@@HollidaySpessa This series is amazing, they are spending real money and sharing the experience with us, experimenting, experiencing, it's not like someone presenting us with all the knowledge with no instance, it's kind of like that game forza horizon 5, building a car, not just granted a certain race car for some certain tracks like in racing simulator, the amount of knowledge during the entire process is great.
@@ashiagefa646 ...yea? im not saying otherwise, im jus saying games like forza don't have suspension models that adhere to rules of reality, esp compared to games like ACC or especially richard burns rally. it's something ull jus have to play with and learn thru experience especially, on top of stuff like this
@@HollidaySpessa actually...
Forza have suspension model since Motorsport 4
That's a misconception
You can't compare Forza Horizon to Acc
Even Motorsport 7 since it's still based on a very old game engine
@@iamcarl4591 richard burns rally is from 2005 and blows everything out of the water lol, so age doesn't matter. something can have a suspension model and that suspension model be horrible (which forzas is because it's not a simulation, and that's ok and there's nothing wrong with it)
Notice how it's still got a heap of body roll? You've sent the roll centre through the floor by lowering it too far, it will be a lot quicker if you lift it at least an inch or go for a roll centre kit - you'll notice it drastically reduces the weight transfer, and makes the car feel a lot sharper and more responsive.
Just commented the same. So many people don't realise that lower does not automatically equal better!
@@gazman9468 Watch the angle on the lower control arms. If the lower ball joint is not below the lower control arm's pivot points (closer to the ground) when the car is sitting on level ground then you have lowered it too far and the handling will suck.
Well, as next episode is propably already recorded my comment will be useless, but I'll write it anyway:
Subarus are very front heavy but they have low center of mass. Stiffening rear sway bar is the first thing to do when you want to improve handling of them.
And about next thing on the list, tires: There is no going around it, if you're going for lap times, aim for best tires you can get. With other things you can get to the point of deminishing returns, with tires better model will always give you time advantage.
Winter tires with good groves improved grip
Tires will make a much bigger time difference than suspension.. but suspension is what gives you confidence and predictability to USE those tires
Yup. I learned in go karting that once you learn to complete trust your tires, its on.
I wonder… how will the final form of this Subi size up with the Low Car from Donut Media? That’s gonna be an epic crossover 🫣
i would love a crossover like that. both groups are so fun to watch
itll be better. both gen of Z cars are prone to over heat under hard driving
@@thewen you know both of them got engine swaps, right? i'd imagine those overheating issues are more related to the engine and its cooling system rather than the actual 350z
edit: ...and they each got their own upgraded radiators during the original season, so that got taken care of even before they swapped out the VQs. if you didn't actually watch their Hi/Low series, you're really missing out.
Would be an interesting crossover and would be hilariously fun to watch
A Donut and Driver Media colab would be so epic!
I love these stock vs expensive "aftermarket" part kind of videos! Really tells you a difference!
Donut had a similar, but it's Cheap vs Expensive Aftermarket
@@sureyeah3678 this feels like a donut media ripoff
@@ferdifresh8464 nah, this is closer to what CarThrottle did. But there, they dont have budget limit iirc
Definetely the best car series on youtube!!!
Well, throttle house is also pretty great
@@bobbycheese22 I actually like Driven Media’s approach of evaluating the process. I feel like the effects of the mods that they do are more clear and easy to understand.
I genuinely cannot get over how relaxed you guys seem to be while working on a car. In America we curse and throw things.
Having lived in the rust belt (Illinois) and having to deal with rust fused and sht constantly falling in your eyes when under a car; you would be absolutely correct!
Curse words, wanting to destroy stuff, wanting to set things on fire, beat sht with a sledge hammer, lay under the car for no reason, and go to a pick a part junkyard because no one has the part you want in stock unless you want to wait forever after ordering it because a bolt fkng snapped or rounded out.
did you watch the last episode?
didn't watch the second episode huh
@@xAKALISx America has a "rust belt" to signify an area where there is the most rust.. Whereas the UK just has the UK.. Because everything is rusty.
yes they should hire me for the cursing and throwing compensations XD
Perrin or Cobb sway bars, strut tower brace, frt and rr, Enkei RPF1 wheels with Falken Azenis RT615k tires should just about wrap up your suspension needs.
I improve my car by stiffen the chassis aside from the use of adjustable coilover, with strut bars such as the one I installed are produced by the local company called ‘UltraRacing’.
They produce specific multiple bars for different car models.
I got an 05 wrx, and it currently only has wheels/tire, exhaust, intake, Stage 2 clutch upgraded, and early tune. Got Brembo's for it, Turbo Inlet, and an Sti Scoop. Been Looking at suspension upgrades, so this was helpful.
Don't make the same mistake top gear did and only focus on handling and then throw like 40 extra hp at it. Gut it, get some good tires on it, some really good brake pads (because it isn't a marathon, it's a sprint) and put some power into it. It's 400hp down on the Lamborghini. 400! It's going to need a good 100+ HP and some more handling mods. Anti roll bars, tires, brake pads, brake fluid, and some good ole fucking power. Don't get wrapped up in spending the rest of that 10k on suspension. Some of that has absolutely got to go to the engine.
I agree check my comment out I said something very important more downforce to keep the vehicle firmly planted on the road.
I'd like to see them make this work but the EJ in that Subaru is a real weak point. Anything over 300whp on the stock bottom end and it's a ticking time bomb. Might still make the lap tho, that's all that counts
Very good series. As a wrencher myself I appreciate when the actual work is documented and not just skipped over.
biggest gains that can ever be done to get a car to go faster are good sets of Tires (depending on what size of rims are stock) after that weightreduction.
but that Scoobie just a set of tires would do the biggest difference
further changes the airflow to increase aero dynamics.
@@knrz2562 the track is too small to really benefit from airflow
A set of michelin pilot sport 4's wont break the bank and in my experience (had these bc's on a subaru as well) make a subaru almost stick to the ceeling
@@Seb-Storm idk
This. Going to be very interesting to see what new (stickier) tires will do
Watched Pt.2 earlier today and was praying for the next installment to drop soon :)
Some good semislicks should make a huge difference to your lap time. Looking forward to it
All this wagon needs is a larger stock location turbo, larger tmic, and a tune and I guarantee you this boxer motor gives that Lambo a run for it's money
BC Racing coilovers are magical. Amazing value for money
Interesting
not better than HK GT coils
garbage..like any other
My advice would be to use lightweight wheels, this would reduce unsprung weight on the suspension which will allow the spring to move up/down faster without oscillating, this will allow you to soften the dampers which improves the tyre contact on the ground.
If you are going to use grippier tyres, maybe buy smaller tyres and rims since the chassis in the car might not be stiff enough to take full advantage of extra potential grip and smaller wheels are lighter than larger ones so you can reduce unsprung mass yet again.
I'm loving every installment so far! Excited to see the finale
I'm loving this series! Great job guys!!!
I have a set of those BC gold BR series struts in my Lexus, hands down the best money i ever spent on making a car handle like you can corner on rails but without the clickety clack part.
With that style of coilover you don’t adjust the ride height from the spring you set the pre-lode of the spring and adjust the ride height through the base as all you doing there is limiting your shock travel and there for slowing your lap time.
It would have been sweet to have had a time before the clutch was replaced.
You've went very low with the rideheight, and the angle af the front control arms has switched to the other side of the horizontal. You will absolutely need a roll center correction kit. You can have that either from Whiteline, or Superpro.
Then, the wagon has narrower control arms, and that works in your favor. Buy a set of STI control arms, aluminium ones, they are 10mm wider, and that will increase the front camber. Be careful, there are 2 versions for those, 3.5deg caster and 5deg caster. The later one, called "spec B" control arm, can be found on the hawkeye STI, this would be the best option. Nevertheless, there are alternate ways to increase the caster. ALK is one of those, but it sucks imho, since it puts static load on the bushings. There is also a free caster mod to be done on the STI control arms, by flipping the rear pin. It does the same thing as an ALK.
If you switch to STI control arms, you will need a new antiroll bar. Careful with that, they differ between the normal STI arms and the spec B ones.
You can also go with STI control arms on the rear, but you will go into fender clearance issues, since the wagon has no flaring helping with wheel offset. For wheels, your best option would be the STI 5x100 wheels, 17x7.5, ET53. Or, if you keep the rear control arms, there is more flexibility to be had. DO NOT go under ET48, or you'll need to cut the lip on the rear fenders. Long story short - a 17x8, et48, on 235/40 might do the trick for 300HP and also fit the rear arches, on the stock rear arms.
Bracing the chassis should also be done, especially after going on the coilover route, it flexes quite a lot.
MANDATORY addition - rear frame lockout bolts.
Poly bushings all-around the suspension can also be of great help. There is also some transition torque lost in the soft drivetrain suspension - engine and transmission mounts, rear differential bushings.
And the WRX 4-pots are quite weak. Buy a set of an STI brembos, or better yet, some BBK. Wilwood has some cheap options. Or see with AP racing, they're on the same island as you are.
If the car is driven by an experienced racing driver, the current steering rack should be fine, it's a 17:1 ratio. Otherwise, good news, your car is RHD, and the JDM STI rack is readily available for a simple swap, with a much-much better ratio of 13:1.
That car has the potential of being turned into a weapon, track-wise, with the right parts and setup.
Edit: do NOT go over -2deg of static camber on the front, the steering rack on this car is in front of the axle, giving very weird toe on lock. On the other hand, for the caster, as much as you can.
For the price, in terms of tires, Falken and Nexen are definitely up there in terms of a budget high performance tire
Love this series! Can’t wait to see where you go with it. Brilliant. 😊
Id invest in some harder sway bars, better wheels/tires, better brake pads, some chassis bracing, better exhaust and filter and a tune (if not getting more forced induction). These are relatively cheap mods that do the most after coilovers for your car.
based on some of the data given in the last episode I've done some calculations on power to weight ratios of both cars. The power to weight ratio of the Murcielago is almost exactly 350 bhp/tonne. If the Subaru's weight stays the same (which it presumably won't) it'll need to make just over 500bhp to match the Murcielagos power to weight, similarly if the power of the Subaru stays the same (again presumably not) the weight of the car will have to drop to around 650kg! If the lads can get the weight of the Subaru down to a somewhat reasonable 1250kg then to match the Murcielago it'd need around 440bhp. I know that power to weight ratios aren't everything in this situation, this was just a bit of fun.
Thank you for doing all this, I’m interested in these kind of more specific statistics but don’t necessarily have the idea to do so.
The two things you buy to make a car faster are tyres and brakes. Now that it’s rolling, tyres and brakes, my boys!
guys please make this weekly relly looking forward to the next one
Keep it up guys this is looking great. Indeed suspension is a big improvement for grip and lap times. Get better tyres, sportier brakes and finally add some extra ponies into the engine with whatever money is left
Splash the cash on tires, 100 tread wear or lower and as wide as you can go for maximum speed through the corners
ive already spent 5k on my forester xt and its still almost stock.....
If it would just stop breaking, id maybe be able to actually mod it.
Freaken love this series. Moral of story race car = expensive. When weight reduction episode? Strip that interior boys
Very awesome series!! I HIGHLY recommend getting some Kosei k1 wheels if you’re going to go with a 17” they are incredibly cheap and incredibly lightweight and designed for the track. That lower unsprung mass will help a bunch
How's the tread wear? Do they last more than a few years of normal day to day wear?
@@fairyball3929 they’re wheels not tires if that’s what you mean.
@@Scalene17 Oops, I should've read your comment a bit more closely. Nevermind, I'm not a wheel expert anyways.
I know you’re now aware that he was talking about wheels, but performance oriented tires can’t really be expected to last more than a few years. Not if you drive your car frequently anyway :P
Stiffer anti-rollbars and some yokohama advan with stiffer walls would help a lot in the corners. Take the spare seats out they weigh a tonne.
Rollbars?!.
Well that's like um idk for protection doesn't really increase free horse power 😳 😬 🤔 😕 😅 😐
@@knrz2562 no anti-rollbars have a quick search online that are situated under the car 😊. That’s what I changed on my old turbo mx5 for gymkhana and made a great difference.
It makes me nervous watching them launch it hard. The tranny's in 2000's wrx's aren't known for their durability, I hope a trans rebuild won't cut into their budget.
What do you think we should upgrade next?! Suggest down below!
If you haven't seen Episode 1 👉 th-cam.com/video/Y-2riLpE4qI/w-d-xo.html
If you haven't seen Episode 2 👉 th-cam.com/video/kYg1PqeKbrs/w-d-xo.html
If you REALLY wanna beat that super car I suggest in upgrading your transmission
,dual exhaust may be worth the cost.
air dams.hood scoop
more downforce to keep the vehicle firmly planted on the road.,allowing the car to corner faster.
Winter tires provide superior traction, braking,and cornering
,as well as average peak power.
Aero and tyres would be helpfull
weight reduction!
@@HaywireRides possibly
With carbon fiber but they'll have to strip the whole car and rebuild the chasis
Weight reduction would be real good
I'm really loving this series so far :D
So looking forward to future episodes! I had the exact same car that at tuned for light track work and mountain roads.
In terms of suspension need to replace the front control arms with STI alloy control arms. The OE metal ones are trash and narrow. GC8 STI arms are direct swap and GD with give you 10mm extra front track width. Also associated swaybar upgrades help, not too stiff.
Rear you need to dissemble the training arms and lateral links. OE set will be frozen in place and don't articulate properly due to age. STI at the time made pink trailing arms and lateral links with piloball bushing. Huge difference in rear stability.
Also bushing STI has a Group N catalogue; rear diff assembly mount, gear box mount and engine pitch stop helped a lot in terms of drivetrain slop and helps get power down better.
STI also made a underbody brace (just a pink bar) and strut brace that helped with steering feel.
The above shopping list is relatively cheap but made a huge difference in handling.
Man I miss that nugget
right before he took off i said to myself i'd be surprised if it gained more than a second on that track. makes no sense to expect a 2 second gain on just swapping out suspension. with the suspension upgrade the car still needs better tires, more power, weight reduction. anything else is just pissing money away. also should have done the weight reduction before setting up the suspension because now you'll just have to set the suspension up all over again after you do the weight reduction.
Tires are going to make the biggest difference I’d say, be interesting to see that episode. But ye I’d have stripped it out 1st considering it can be done for free.
So, this is like the Top Gear episode back in the day, between an EVO VIII FQ400 and a Lamborghini Murcielago. lol
I think after the tried you should just do some Wrightów reduction. I know it will hurt the practicality but it’s essentially free seconds off the laptime.
Get wider wheels to put better tires on, the new coilovers will allow a much wider wheel and tire and you guys should take full advantage of that!
Oooh come on! When’s the next episode coming out!
This is a great series
I think that you really need to reduze wheight for example getting out the back seats.
0:41 “oh some stickers” “wow a piece of cardboard” there are two crows inside all of us, they’re both exactly the same
That rear damper on the stock set had lost all it's oil already, no wonder it was bad!
Dont draw this out to be 10eps plus keep it shorter and snappier to retain viewship. Im a new viewer from ig. Please dont do track visit for each part maybe for 2 parts. Or part and comesmetic steering wheel etc.
This series is soo good its like beta hilow donut media series and i love it♥️
Sway bars may be worth your money, stiffer coilovers alone aren't enough to counteract body roll
Pls do bracing and sway bars next. Simple bracing like bolt on strut tower bars and an X brace underneath, and super cheap sway bars. They will probably give you the most bang for your buck handling improvements after doing struts, and can be had for very cheap!
Please, please get RE71Rs, if they still make them. Unbelievably good tire. If not, Goodyear Eagle Supercar 3.
Had a set of bc coilovers years ago, they were terrible, adjustment rings are easily damaged, bearings on the front top mounts failed after 6 months, and they rust like hell, then the power coat will flake of the springs.
Weight Reduction>Tires>Suspension>Brakes>Diff>Transmission>Power>Aero
At least that's what worked for me on Gran Turismos 😀
WOW! SOME STICKERS! A PIECE OF CARDBOARD!
i lolled.
How the hell have I just found this channel? It's like a mashup of donut media and carthrottle. Brilliant stuff, this series will be awesome. New subscriber here 😁
Everything William said about that coilovers can be taken out of context
I'm amazed that a difference between proper set of stiff, adjustable coilovers and a stock suspension with at least one busted shock is that little!
Yep, suspension without a tire upgrade is often just a confidence upgrade that reduces compliance. But pair that with a set of good tires and an alignment tailored for those tires (getting the tires equally warm inside, center and outside) and there is no better bang for buck upgrade. Next, weight reduction. Only then, maybe some power adders.
hi, your coil overs are set up wrong. you need to pull them apart. set the bump etc. look up the mca suspension coil over set up video. I found 2 seconds at the track from doing this.
Shouldnt lowering the front induce understeer? Because by moving weight to the front you increase the moment of inertia and the front will tend to go straight rather than turn?
this channel has been good
Why do you need reliable when it’s for one lap? Definitely a much better coil over though. I’m sure you could save on the budget by using the standard wheels with better tyres too
Lol how are you adjusting the coil overs those are locking rings at the top and bottom not adjusting rings lmao
How to beat a super car on track.
Upgrade:
Suspension
Brake pads
Tires/wheels
Shave weight
And POWER.
This series should be called "Middle of the Road".
We need these out quicker!
I love this channel. But it reminds me I seriously messed up in life if the famous CAR youtuber uses an impact and says I need one of these.
you couldve spent 1.4k on bc ERs and had the same function as the 3k coilovers
Cool series.
Shame that testing it with new stock suspension wasn’t done though. Would’ve been interesting to see.
Before you do the corner weight and alignment you'll want to take the weight out of the car first. I'd also do the tyres at the same time. That will see your biggest gains in lap time I reckon.
For tyres I'd personally recommend Yoko A052s.
We need new episooooooode
Looking forward to watching this whole series 😄
Remove the most of the interior of the car and then tune the suspension and the tires
Definitely go for damping adjustment. Or you might end up with a bouncing wheel again lol.
It's not always about strength, it could be about body kinematics, I can do things my bike mechanic can't even though he's stronger than me just because my leverage ratios are better.
to be fair it also looks like he wasn't pulling the quick release for the air hose, if you dont, it'll never go in, second you pull it it goes on like butter
would be funny to pit this car against whatever box CarThrottle is working on xD
Is it excatly recreating 330d vs M3 challenge on other channel?
perhaps a semi slick tyre now?
Don’t forget bushings, Whitline antilift kit and Short shifter with transmission Sti transmission mount👍
Wider Tires about 10-15mm wider on those 17” rims. Any more u will bounce around. Skip the clutch. Subaru transmission are garbage just deal with it and learn to be smooth! Shift that money to Turbo upgrade with ECM tuning with Bigger exhaust. You need better pads like Akibino race pads on the cheap. Or straight pipe for track use no muffler or cat. Put it back on after u win.
Take out all interior extra and get weight down.
Move battery to trunk passengers side if u can to distribute weight.Cusco rear strut tower mount skip the front one if u need more grip in the front. Don’t forget f/r sway bars 22mm or above.
Sti here in USA is about 300hp. That turbo tune can get u to 380-425hp This will make maximum usage of the GD engine cams. Guaranteed win!
Good Luck!
Will:
“I want to be as hard as possible”
“I don’t want to be able to put a finger in”
“I’m the chief squirter”
BC Really has come along WAY LIKE Milwaukee tools
Loving it, my fear is Scott sticks it in a hedge when it gets closer to the time 😂
I love this series, I'll make sure to miss the next episode as soon as it comes out!
You intentionally want to miss the next episode after loving the series after only watching the first video?
@@xAKALISx it's the third video of the series, and it's a joke about the last 10 seconds of it lol
Wheels and tires, ditch out the interior, and do some engine mods
tyres are gonna be the big one, up to 2 seconds i reckon if they are as close to slick as drive-able on the road. nothing is going to make up the power difference out of the corners though.
There are road-legal semi-slicks (e.g. Bridgestone RE11s (which might not be road legal) and Pirelli Trofeo (which is my local racing shop's options stocks))
Brakes, suspension and tyres are the critical ways of making your car faster. Engine tuning comes last.
Lose weight, better tires (r888), forced induction, that'll get it really close to the murci.
I'm liking this series, can't wait for the next one.
I love this series about to buy me a WRX after this not a wagon tho. 😮💨
This content is so, so good. I know these kind of series take a lot of work and money, and we really appreciate it. I can't wait to see this one continue and see what else you have in store!
Try KYB, and old Honda.
I am speed
Fix the Lambo, it was misfiring under load! Rerun the Lambo on the circuit because her sound is glorious.
My first time on the channel and I am blown away that you haven't changed the tyres yet. First and foremost are tyre upgrades.