2017 WRX, 40k km. Connecting rod went, new short block and turbo. Car was completely stock. $10k parts and labor fixed under warranty. Won’t tune till warranty is up. Stuff happens. Still love my car. Hey my Corolla was reliable, but who has fun driving a corolla.
The issue with direct injection is that there is nothing to wash the intake ports and the valves and this allows for carbon buildup that restricts and disrupts airflow. Direct injection engines actually have less carbon buildup in the combustion chamber because they burn gas more efficiently since it is mixed better. Fuel cleaner will not clean the carbon buildup on the intake ports because the injectors go directly into the combustion chamber.
Mine had oil leaks. Oil pan, oil exchanger and timing cover are all leaking and cars at 140k miles. Was driving the other day and my red oil light came on. I think my oil pump went. Fucking hate this car. Issue after issue
I had an oil consumption issue at 35,000 miles with a 2015 WRX 2.0DIT. It would eat a quart and a half of oil every 1000 miles. I ended up getting rid of this car but we suspected it was due to valve seals. The car had a protune on it only. Also not to forget to mention a squeaky throw out bearing when the car was cold. This squeaky bearing didn’t seem to affect anything though. PS these problems were disclosed to the new owner.
Fuel cleaner does nothing for the gunk buildup left on top of the valves in a direct injection engine. You need that spray that goes into your intake while running the engine. I forget the name but all the auto parts stores sell it .
Also running an oil specifically formulated for dit motors will help them deposits from forming to begin with. Which Subaru oem 5w30 isn't. It's in multiple models.
He was talking about the combustion chamber “on top of the piston basically” i read that even an oil will cause worse carbon build up ontop of the pistons “motul Xcess” for example, IAG figured this out, they are using Motul X clean now. Seafoam in the gas tank can help, Seafoam Top engine cleaner for the valves. Or a 450$ walnut blast 😂
I have a 2015 WRX I purchased new and at around 90,000 miles the engine started to knock. I'm pretty sure it is a bent connecting rod after cutting the oil filter apart to find a large amount of gold colored material indicating bushing failure. The knock sound is piston frequency. I'm believe the piston skirt is making contact with the connecting rod. Disassembly coming soon.
Carbon buildup happens on the valves not the piston. It builds up because fuel is not being sprayed on the valves, instead it’s being sprayed into the combustion chamber. Running fuel cleaner won’t do anything
Common problems 2015+ wrx: pitch stopper bracket fails, oem transmission mount breaks, clutch squeak past 36000 miles, egr non sense if not removed, and terrible stock tune...fix buy accessport, pitch stop/brace/ tranny mount, and remove egrs, after you have yourself an awesome car (even better with e85 lol)
Stock tune is junk, 30% throttle is basically 100%. Get it tuned and push the tq later into the rpm range and the rods will last much longer. Id take a well tuned fa20dit pushing 330tq then the stock tune.
But once you tune the car there goes your warranty. So even though the stock tune blows and possibly bad for the car itself because of boost spiking, at least if something does go wrong, you can bring it to the dealer and they'll fix it. Otherwise you flash a tune via accessport and voila, no more warranty.
You certainly make a good point. Funny how it works, stock tune was so hard to enjoy in my opinion, but tuning the car to make it more enjoyable could cause warranty to be denied. I picked up my 2015 with 24k miles on it and waited until 30k to do anything. Wouldn't make sense to buy a brand new car and then mod it immediately.
Chase Bang You are correct lol. A lot of people don’t know this and a lot of more people push the car too hard and don’t know how to drive honestly I’m amazed how well built these cars are giving the retards that buy and drive them
I had rod knock problems and had to get a new engine but I still can’t find out what caused it cheap fuel because my old engine had only 75,000 miles on it
I got an 18, clutch pedal squeaks as I push it in or let it out. It's not the tob, doesn't squeak when I leave it pushed in, it squeaks/creaks as it passes the bite point whether the car is on or not. Any ideas? Already tried WD-40 ing the spring and joints near the clutch pedal. It's intermittent.
I think subarus are really realiable, I have owned 8 wrx's mixture of gc8/blob eye/ hawk eye/hatch , only blew 1 motor which was totally my fault, ej25 - cheap oil -track day with no cool down laps- lesson learnt....
These cars tune hard as hell, biggest issue is kids buy these cars and abuse them then complain the cars break.... Be smart it’s not a race car ,be prepared to pay if something break. My 2017 wrx has a ton of mods and it’s been running 317 WHP and 338 WTQ. The stock dyno was 214 WHP and 228 WTQ. That’s a 100 hp gain or a 50% power gain in a small 2.0 liter motor AWD. I’m running 93 octane in a safe dyno tune. Any more power and I’ll run into the rod issues that people run into when either they tune it bad or start putting race fuel. Stay away from 350 WTQ or bye bye rods. The real issue these cars have is the engine motor mount the one at the top that goes from fire wall to motor that thing snaps if you do too many pulls on a modded Subaru you should get a good aftermarket one like the Perrin. The other issue is the direct injection and the carbon build up. Remove the EGR as soon as you can. If your modding the car get a catch can as well as the EGR delete.
The rods are not "weak"...Almost any car with cast rods making too much boost/torque way down low like with the original factory map will snap rods..Add direct injection and that increases the likelihood, especially if you live in an area with shitt fuel..Engine failures seem not that common anymore since tuners have figured this out, and many people are pushing well over 350awhp with stock internals
I literally can only fill up at one gas station. These cars are finicky when it comes to gas, strangely enough it's not even a top tier gas station either, circle K right around the corner from my house gives me absolutely no knocks throughout the rpm range, everyother gas station gives me knock. As soon as I can afford it, I'm going E60
Not really a common problem, but my 17 wrx blew out its rear differential within 15,000 miles. Car was bone stock, yet they tried to say that I was a terribly reckless driver after fixing it under warranty.
just for future reference, launching any awd car is not a good idea. Im not saying you did, but just an fyi if you werent sure why yours blew up. Clutch dumping is a no no
I’d like to add that many people believe the stock tune is utter crap and may be a cause for bent rods when completely stock. I’d say get a reliable tune and mod it as much as you want as long as it stays under the reliable torque and horsepower limit.
I'm heavily considering trading mine next summer. I find these people with their MOD shit absolutely adorable, especially when they find out these motors are shit and break.
Mine is completely stock, all maintenance done on time at Dealerships, Motor just grenaded at 82k miles. Complete garbage and as durable as a wet paper bag 👎🏼
@@brodiwheeler7583 on my second short block fa20 first 28k second 39k all oil changes and maintenance on time and I didn't even beat on it. Even after getting it bsck this time, I hear a odd noise coming from engine when revving. Like a tapping or very light metallic rattle. Ppl best insult when I call out subarus, you probably don't change oil enough or drive too hard, ,not even close.
@@remissiveslave I know, I changed oil more than what the maintenance schedule advises at Dealers everytime and did every maintenance they recommended (Fuel Injection System Cleaning, PCV Valve etc.)... doesn’t even matter, weak design and faulty tuning with the over boosting and timing changes... plus the ‘12s-‘17 had a class action on the EJs for faulty oiling of the rod bearings, I assume not any better of a design on these FA20DITs... Hopefully class action lawsuit to come on these too. It’s just pure bad faith on Subaru’s part to be building engines that don’t hold up to the power they put out. Simply a weak NA motor design that was converted to forced induction that can’t hold up to the boosting with any longevity or durability. Subaru knows that most of them will be modded and/or crashed and they won’t have to fess up to their liability in a poorly designed powerplant in most cases. They have great driving dynamics for the money, but who cares if it won’t last long enough to get your money’s worth out of it... I mean, offset connecting rods on a performance motor??? In what Universe does that make sense? If you hear anything on a lawsuit or an unlikely admittance/TSB or recall, let me know and I’ll do the same! Never again giving my money to SOA. 👎🏼👎🏼
@@brodiwheeler7583 yet these losers on TH-cam who probably don't even have a license half the time will clamber to the typical check lists of excuses or user errors they presume led to the cars demise. I truly am puzzled how hard these wrx-sti drivers can get away from these trash bins breaking enough enough to make content to deceive people about how great they are.
Dang that sucks, maybe lugging the engine caused you to bend the rod. A good rule is to never floor it under 4k or drive too aggressively in lower rpms.
Your explanation for carbon build up with direct injection is slightly confusing. With port injection, the intake valves are sprayed with fuel, which cleans them in a way and in turn reduces build up. Direct injection does not do this because the injectors are below the intake valves and spray directly into the cylinders. Direct injection actually reduces carbon build up in the the cylinders among other things. Your description makes it sound like direct injection creates carbon build up in general. Also, you want to purchase an intake cleaner, not just a fuel cleaner. Otherwise, great video!
Should be looking at the brzs common problems we could very well have those at higher mileage. The main issue we need to address is intake valve buildup. We will ALL have to deal with this at some point in our cars life.
I had my clutch, flywheel, bearing, fork replaced at 10k under warranty - the dealer said the fork was improperly installed from the factory causing premature failure in the flywheel and clutch
Hi I currently have a 2015 WRX. I have intermittent power loss relative to a misfire, but no codes Are showing up when the mechanic tries to diagnose the problem. They believe it’s in the ignition system but cannot tell me exactly where. It feels like a spark plug or coil pack, but I’m being told it could be computer or boost control module/waste gate. Any suggestions or do I start replacing parts. FYI I had an engine rebuild with new short block in 2019. Help!
Any time a dealer offers to change something out under warranty, you can bet they are looking to increase the workload of the shop. Did they change them out? Or just tell you they did, and made a profit with a job that gets billed to the factory.
I'm bringing my 2016 in this week because I'm having problems cold starting my car in cold Temps (less than 30 degrees f) the car just doesn't want to turn over, I thought it was the battery and after replacing that I'm still experiencing hard cold starts after the car has been sitting over night in the cold
Aaron Younger mine does the same thing - my dealer said that’s normal - master tech said leave it on a trickle charger over night... I think it’s BS but it did solve the problem
So the carbon build up issue can be kept under control with something like Techron fuel injector cleaner? Or do I have to go for a walnut valve cleaning eventually no matter what? Thanks.
Hey, just bought a 2016 forester xt, and wasn’t aware of these problems, I’m still planning on mods, but now aware of this, will be more continence about what I do to it!!!
@@itayr4827 it has 98000km on it, my wife drives it, but it’s the main car we take everywhere, for the trans, they have a mechanical issue, but Subaru has given all there customers a 10 years unlimited millage warranty on the transmission, I’ve had mine changed once so far, beyond that, it’s a fun car to drive. The power is good 😊
The engine is a great design and produces really good horsepower and torque. All you need is a flex fuel kit and tune from phabotti and you’ll be happy.
I owned a 2008 Subaru STi with 63,000 miles in it, never had problem with my car, never had any cEL , a recall letter [ an air pump, relay and valve may closed and cause fire/ , emission control ] I got from Subaru prompted me to go to the dealer and had it corrected, a month. After .. I got a CEL p2441 .. means / air pump switching valve is stuck / closed. .. the very same recall correction Subaru fixed. I went back to Subaru and they are charging me for the diagnostic and repair.... I contacted the Subaru customer services ... the staff pretended to be like a long lost friend kinda ... gave me some assist advices who end up nowhere.... my 4th time me of going back to Subaru to I start to see some minor smoke and a burnt electrical smell from the engine bay, Subaru was charging me $ 1,400 for the repair ... now I decided to not go back there and have an independent mechanic fix who had charge me 190 buck for the whole fix.... Subaru dealers is a fraud ... again ... don’t patronize this Subaru as this is one of the biggest legit scammer In auto business. I’m getting my TESla pretty soon ... so fuck that Subaru.
Clark Kyle specifically for the Subaru franchised ...and Subaru dealership .. biggest scam warning, all is warned. If you see this post not helpful to your situation then ignore it, simple as that.
Just sold my 335i, i spent 3k in repairs... Sad thing is I only drove the car for 12k miles. Ive been looking into a Subaru, but I’m really concerned that I might run into another money pit. I’m looking at a 2015 Subaru with 42k miles. Stock clutch, Cobb accessport, Invidia exhaust, mishimoto intake. Guy wants 21k. Good deal? Anything to look for specifically? I’ve read some posts saying the clutch is relatively weak, so the fact that it’s still on a stock clutch was almost a deal breaker.
I am planning on getting a 2019 wrx, after video I feel like I should be getting a lexus for reliability. However I like to go snowboarding alot and need all wheel drive. What do you guys think? 2019 wrx or other lexus car in $30,000 range.
Bought a 2019 wrx straight for dealer the premium with cvt and this whole car feels flimsy . Deff needs better suspension and braking , waste of money . But at least they don’t break down if u never tune it
did you test drive one before hand? Unless you have been driving that was built to race, I am pretty surprised you are finding that... the suspensions from the factory are pretty decent, and one of the main reasons the WRX is so popular.
Auto Enthusiast I mean I just sold my 2011 335xi and I’m used to the m suspension I guess . It’s deff decent but 85mph+ its to light on the steering , I know the suspension is super comfy but I’d rather have it stiffer and lower . Not a bad car but they could have easily added better suspension n brakes
Interesting, having driven lots of BMWs, 335xi, and 335is's, I would say the WRX suspension far outperforms the BMW's... I agree with the brakes, the stock brakes aren't great, but easy to factory upgrade.
Georgi Teofilov I agree. Suspension is good up til about 70-75 then it feels flighty. I’m use to VW and Audi.. never felt that with them but I’ve been replacing everything with stiffer components and it has dramatically changed the WRX.
George Teofilov they break even if they’re stock. I can testify. 82k miles and the motor detonated. Get rid of them before the powertrain warranty is over, or you’ll be sorry just like me.
You hit the nail on the head, these rods are why l traded in my WRX, there is more info about this on MRT Performance, they have a video that shows what happens to these rods when the engine reaches 21 pounds of boost or more, the rods break and bend, knocking pieces off the piston skirt, search this on TH-cam : (Subaru engine comparison, FA20, internal weakness secrets) this engine should not be equipped with a turbo, it is too weak.
I trust soa to deliver an honest product. I doubt they would design a motor for millions of dollars just for it to blow at max STOCK boost. I just dont believe that. Yes if you run it it will break. But i hit 21 pounds everyday almost mine is running solid af. Just saying. If i do blow a rod its covered so let it blow before 36k
Dallas Williams yet that’s exactly whats happened.... same with all the ej25’s that came out after model year 06. Long gone are the days of the 4g63, ej20, F20C, 2jz, rb26... our closest engine relative is the 2.3L disi mzr (mazdaspeed 3&6) look it up con rod design is very similar only the fa has an offset.
That's exactly what happened to my 2015 WRX. There's two morons In the other comments that are arguing with me that I'm wrong about it that think they know everything. I shouldn't be responding to them anymore because they're probably lying POS trolls, but I feel it's Important for everyone else reading to know the facts of what happened in my case
Yes. The stock tune is crap even worse on 91 octane. And loading the motor (low rpm heavy throttle) and high revs for long periods can cause bending rods. or spun bearing issues.
@@surfjujitsu2456 Smart. Bet that S3 is Fun! There were some service bulletins about remapping/replacing of ECU & Leakdown tests pertaining to possibilities of knock that I got notified of shortly after I purchased in 2015, I asked the Dealer about them at that time and they said it didn’t apply to mine... turns out they did now that I looked them up. I also had done 2 PCV Valves and a fuel injection system cleaning around 60k because I was experiencing rough idle, which is one of the symptoms listed in the TSB that the Dealer never advised or bothered to try looking at, just sold me the other services. The work for the TSB is quite extensive and probably doesn’t pay much for warranty/factory pay, so the Dealer probably didn’t want to get into it... I guess me and the dealer and SOA have some talking to do about how to work this out. Might have to give Audi/VW a try on the next vehicle and be more on top of checking Technical Service Bulletins myself and getting them documented in the future if the Dealer is trying to weasel out of them. Safe Rallyin Brah 🤙🏼
question i consider buying a 2015 wrx , what if i was to keep it stock or just minor mods like a bpv and upgraded intake would the connecting rod still be an issue?
I had a 2015 , 20g turbo, meth injection, Injectors, full exhaust, in take, intercooler, 370hp to the ground, here is the key..Professionally Tunned. Ran the shit out of it daily with no problems.
Act extreme clutch kit with flywheel. Also my transmission/ front diff fluid was pitch black and burn. Put motul tranny fluid in and absolutely love the setup
I have heard of clutches going early. Don't understand it other than there must be a few odd anomalies. I just changed my '15 wrx clutch at 78k miles and I had been autocrossing, 4,500rmp launches and burned it up a bit when I first got it trying to get used to the abrupt clutch engagement. I'd say it held up pretty well.
Mark Foster I had probably 20 launches down the drag stop at 5200 rpm and at least another 20 launches on the street. I’m liking my act clutch and it’s been amazing
If you had to go back, would you buy this car again? I'm thinking about trading my 2018 Accord Sport 1.5 T to a new WRX but i read mix reviews about it as far for the reliability. i wanted to get your honest opinion.
Just curious...do the forged pistons in the 2019 WRX STI negate ring land failure or decrease the chance of it occurring? Thanks ahead of time for your insight on this.
Thanks for asking and a really good question! My short answer is I am not sure, and I don't think anyone is yet. I don't know enough about the new assembly to make a determination. Typically, we will have to wait 3-6 months from the first delivery to hear about problems. Subaru has claimed to fix it for a couple years now, so it is hard to say.
Auto Enthusiast thanks for asking, I love it. Previously sold a 2016 STI and here’s what I like in the 2019: Inside - the big media screen, the seats, more areas that have a carbon fiber look, and the red seatbelt. Outside - big brakes, larger rims, headlights move with turning, and the use of a carbon fiber look on the front and back. The roof has visible attachments for a roof rack - not sure if that was on the 2018, but it’s nice to have. I loved my 2016, and love the 2019 more. Also, I believe that since 2019 is the last of this body style, and with the forged pistons, larger brakes, larger rims, etc. this will someday be a sought after Subie commanding a higher resale. Forgot to mention: the change in the 3rd gear is great, no turbo lag either, at least I haven’t noticed any.
I’d like to add that I had a misfire on a spark plug and my intercooler went out at 15k miles. They replaced both under warranty, but then proceeded to tell me that I shouldn’t drive my car fast..... I bought a WRX not a fucking Camry.. Anyway, my question is, to someone whom may know more about the engine and car... what is a safe amount of HP and TQ to push on e85 without losing too much reliability? I’d appreciate a response, thank you.
Sorry to hear about the misfire. The second you tune to e85, you are already reducing reliability. I don't there is necessarily a number for hp and torq that marks the loss of reliability. Typically I hear about people having issues with serious engine components when they pass the 300whp mark. Most people that have had connecting rod issues from what I understand are around there.
This is incorrect, the chamber will be clean, the build up occurs on the valves as there is no fuel spraying them like port injection would. The cylinders will remain clean for the most part. The remedy to caked up valves is port Injection, charge pipe meth Injection, or wal nut blasting every 50k miles maybe less.
This dudes a bafoon the rods are thinner and do to that the bend at high boost under low rpm. If you use a reputable tuner they have discovered this problem and dont run high boost down low.
I mean boost has little effect on a rods tensile strength and fracture point. I do agree a high/low pressure scenario may aggravate the force on the rods, but no, most tuners are going to recommend a manley rod/sleeve setup most of the time.
so there is nothing wrong with stock form, everything you and everyone else refer to is after market tuning, all none stock use regardless if its day to day use, volvo also used direct injection 35 yrs ago known as cis system and was mechanical, not electronic, I love the wrx ,too bad they don't use the fb 20 short block which shows great promise, maybe not set up yet for forced induction
@@justinblas7814 - that's the only problem. Just don't get in the habit of always filling your tank on empty like I did, but instead never let it get lower than 1/4 tank, and keeping that fuel level at all times as a minimum should help keep the fuel pump cool.... less likely to burn up.
@@justinblas7814 - yes but not selling mine. Bought mine via RC Auto / north phx. They might be able to find you something used, but resale values on Subies are generally high, so good luck!
Great video man. Have a 2017. Got 30k miles on it. Runs great so far, but what I will say is an annoyance I've noticed when I'm on 3rd gear giving it light acceleration, the motor will suddenly cut power then immediately resume. Kinda like a stutter or flutter in power. Its difficult to explain unless you experience it first hand. I want to say it's the terrible stock tuning in the vehicle computer chip that might be causing the engine to 'hiccup.' Anyone else encountering this?
It’s pulling timing to avoid breaking the weak sauce rods. Get rid of it before the powertrain warranty is up like I should have done with mine. Hear me now, believe me later.
@@marcoseesmarcoshares That was my plan and I shoulda stuck to it. Bone stock ‘15 Dealer Maintained on time the whole time... just detonated a rod at 82k miles. Super Pissed 😤 Good luck 🤙🏼
@@TheDragonslayer119 I mean, you do you... Consider a powertrain warranty. They are the most fun driving cars for the money, Just know that eventually, Repair$ will come. I had my fun and was a big fan of the brand, now I’m moving on.
I daily drive my 2021 Wrx manual. Putting 43k kilometers about 26k miles in 6 months. So far no issues. I've done trans, diff oils. Engine oil and filter every 10k km. Air, cabin filters replaced. Topped off coolant once. Stock dunlop still going strong about to change them soon. My only issue with the car, shifts are notchy even after trans oil change. Fuel consumption is high since day one. It's not efficient as Golf GTI with stage 1 tune :). Cabin noisy. I wish it had better exhaust, better tune, rotors and coolant system out of the box. But reliability wise, it drives like new everyday.
If the clutch is fucked it’s safe to assume that the previous owner beat on it. Just keep looking for better condition ones with maintenance records. Good luck I’m looking for one too 👍
Where do you keep your left foot? Off the clutch as soon as possible, don’t drag! How often is your hand on the shifter, bad habit, keep your hand off the shifter when your not changing gears....check with others....Jim
My advice is get rid of it before it’s out of warranty like I had planned to do with my stock 2015... Foolishly kept it til 82k miles and it broke a rod, engine is toast. Fun to drive, but not to keep long term. Fragile Engines.
Wrx. You won’t believe the retards that drive the wrx and how they beat on them and yet these cars keep going. Treat them good do your oil changes and don’t abuse them and they will last forever with few maintenances.
@@AutoEnthusiast safe tuning is directly proportional to how much you can spend. Cutting corners will cost you later, and often times more that if you did it right the first time. IMHO anything beyond Stage 3 should be on a built block with a closed deck.
@@millz_7114 >Maybe I misunderstand something, but it wouldn`t sound like a great idea that any guy at a traffic light would be able to open the trunk then. In regards to pressing the trunk button inside the car (i actually don`t know if it requires that the keyfob is inside the car for that actually...but why wouldn`t it be there, had to open the door somehow?) Anyhow, I have no issue with pressing the trunk button inside the car. When doing so, it actually does spring open the trunk lit for me. The button at the trunk has no function after pressing the internal trunk button and I can just lift the trunk lit up. This is 2016 EU model.
Not sure why a boxer engine is a benefit... they are much more complicated than other 4cyls being they have 2 heads rather than 1. There have been many inline 4cyl turbo engines that can reliably handle 400+whp on stock internals... Not sure why Subaru couldn't get that right, nonetheless the FA is a improvement over the EJ
It is far worse than what he is talking about .....look at all the complaints since 2007 through 20013 then just as big of issues with the 20014 and 2015. If you start with a power steering leak and have warranty.......get it to a dealer. Their limit is 60K and my son first changed the oil at 1000 miles and every 3000 after that. It is not a worn engine it is the connected components to the steering ...power train....long block....radiator ....transmission etc.. Google it.....it is true.....it happened to us. Thank God above that it was in the dealer's hands when it blew apart. We got a new short block and reworked valves of course gaskets...etc...etc.
The problem I have with my 2018 WRX is I can’t stop driving it. As a result, the mileage is increasing and gas is a huge expense
Lmao funniest comment
Get it out of that garage vang!
Vang which brand gas do you run?
Dallas Williams 91, Shell.
@@DJBirbman what are your thoughts on sunoco 93?
2017 WRX, 40k km. Connecting rod went, new short block and turbo. Car was completely stock. $10k parts and labor fixed under warranty. Won’t tune till warranty is up. Stuff happens. Still love my car. Hey my Corolla was reliable, but who has fun driving a corolla.
Who has fun destroying their connecting rod though...
82k miles on stock WRX threw a rod... not fun anymore. These motors are as solid as a wicker basket. 💩👎🏼
@@brodiwheeler7583 bruh ur scaring me I kinda want one
@@GreatGrandmasterWang right 😂😂😂
The issue with direct injection is that there is nothing to wash the intake ports and the valves and this allows for carbon buildup that restricts and disrupts airflow. Direct injection engines actually have less carbon buildup in the combustion chamber because they burn gas more efficiently since it is mixed better. Fuel cleaner will not clean the carbon buildup on the intake ports because the injectors go directly into the combustion chamber.
I wish I knew this before I went stage 2 on my 2015 brz and blew the connecting rod
I wanted a Subaru, but I kept on reading and watching vids from owners and half are good but the other half have engine issues!
get a ford GT and mod it
you won't have AWD but you can do burnouts and MURICA type shit with it
@@visionsoflightwiliams86 do you know how much a fucken gt is
@@visionsoflightwiliams86 ahahahahahahhahaa tell em dawg
@@apollohd7873 meant Mustang my bad i forget there is that ugly ass GT Ford makes
Same thing I am reading. The only common trend is that a lot of them are modded/tuned and have a bit of mileage on them.
Mine had oil leaks. Oil pan, oil exchanger and timing cover are all leaking and cars at 140k miles. Was driving the other day and my red oil light came on. I think my oil pump went. Fucking hate this car. Issue after issue
I had an oil consumption issue at 35,000 miles with a 2015 WRX 2.0DIT. It would eat a quart and a half of oil every 1000 miles. I ended up getting rid of this car but we suspected it was due to valve seals. The car had a protune on it only. Also not to forget to mention a squeaky throw out bearing when the car was cold. This squeaky bearing didn’t seem to affect anything though. PS these problems were disclosed to the new owner.
Fuel cleaner does nothing for the gunk buildup left on top of the valves in a direct injection engine. You need that spray that goes into your intake while running the engine. I forget the name but all the auto parts stores sell it .
Also running an oil specifically formulated for dit motors will help them deposits from forming to begin with. Which Subaru oem 5w30 isn't. It's in multiple models.
He was talking about the combustion chamber “on top of the piston basically” i read that even an oil will cause worse carbon build up ontop of the pistons “motul Xcess” for example, IAG figured this out, they are using Motul X clean now. Seafoam in the gas tank can help, Seafoam Top engine cleaner for the valves. Or a 450$ walnut blast 😂
I have a 2015 WRX I purchased new and at around 90,000 miles the engine started to knock. I'm pretty sure it is a bent connecting rod after cutting the oil filter apart to find a large amount of gold colored material indicating bushing failure. The knock sound is piston frequency. I'm believe the piston skirt is making contact with the connecting rod. Disassembly coming soon.
My 2015 just grenaded at 82k miles. Completely stock, all maintenance done on time, Dealer serviced only. I’m pissed! 😤
@@brodiwheeler7583 that sucks
Carbon buildup happens on the valves not the piston. It builds up because fuel is not being sprayed on the valves, instead it’s being sprayed into the combustion chamber. Running fuel cleaner won’t do anything
Yeah he lost my interest there. Dude talks about what he doesnt know.
Carbon build up can happen on the rings / ring lands.
Common problems 2015+ wrx: pitch stopper bracket fails, oem transmission mount breaks, clutch squeak past 36000 miles, egr non sense if not removed, and terrible stock tune...fix buy accessport, pitch stop/brace/ tranny mount, and remove egrs, after you have yourself an awesome car (even better with e85 lol)
Stock tune is junk, 30% throttle is basically 100%. Get it tuned and push the tq later into the rpm range and the rods will last much longer. Id take a well tuned fa20dit pushing 330tq then the stock tune.
But once you tune the car there goes your warranty. So even though the stock tune blows and possibly bad for the car itself because of boost spiking, at least if something does go wrong, you can bring it to the dealer and they'll fix it. Otherwise you flash a tune via accessport and voila, no more warranty.
You certainly make a good point. Funny how it works, stock tune was so hard to enjoy in my opinion, but tuning the car to make it more enjoyable could cause warranty to be denied. I picked up my 2015 with 24k miles on it and waited until 30k to do anything. Wouldn't make sense to buy a brand new car and then mod it immediately.
Pay to play pussies lol. A ProTuned FA20dit has a less likely chance of blowing up, FACT.
Chase Bang
You are correct lol. A lot of people don’t know this and a lot of more people push the car too hard and don’t know how to drive honestly I’m amazed how well built these cars are giving the retards that buy and drive them
@@93ChayZ exactly! Even an ots tune is better than the factory...I was spiking at 22.7 psi bone stock...Went stage 2+ after break in...35k no issues
I had rod knock problems and had to get a new engine but I still can’t find out what caused it cheap fuel because my old engine had only 75,000 miles on it
2015 with 82k miles threw a rod... what caused it is they are weak sauce! 💩
still hopeful. I wish Subaru would have made all forged internals
The 2019 STI has some upgrades goodies
Crawford does. It'll cost you 4k and then labor.
Long gone are the days of the 4g63 and ej20, its all about emissions now, lower reciprocating mass means better fuel economy.
James Kocks N another 4K in labor lol
@@-slurmdaddy-8147 depends on who you know.
I got an 18, clutch pedal squeaks as I push it in or let it out. It's not the tob, doesn't squeak when I leave it pushed in, it squeaks/creaks as it passes the bite point whether the car is on or not. Any ideas? Already tried WD-40 ing the spring and joints near the clutch pedal. It's intermittent.
Dylan Kazich bro I got the same issue with my 17 wrx and I also tried wd-40 but it didn’t go away. Might take it into a shop
I think subarus are really realiable, I have owned 8 wrx's mixture of gc8/blob eye/ hawk eye/hatch , only blew 1 motor which was totally my fault, ej25 - cheap oil -track day with no cool down laps- lesson learnt....
Thanks for video dude. Thanks to u I will keep it stock (at least a while longer). Im not rolling in cash to fix and issue like that.
Take small steps! I have to say, its a very fun game modifying these. Even if its just for aesthetics.
These cars tune hard as hell, biggest issue is kids buy these cars and abuse them then complain the cars break....
Be smart it’s not a race car ,be prepared to pay if something break. My 2017 wrx has a ton of mods and it’s been running 317 WHP and 338 WTQ. The stock dyno was 214 WHP and 228 WTQ. That’s a 100 hp gain or a 50% power gain in a small 2.0 liter motor AWD.
I’m running 93 octane in a safe dyno tune. Any more power and I’ll run into the rod issues that people run into when either they tune it bad or start putting race fuel. Stay away from 350 WTQ or bye bye rods.
The real issue these cars have is the engine motor mount the one at the top that goes from fire wall to motor that thing snaps if you do too many pulls on a modded Subaru you should get a good aftermarket one like the Perrin.
The other issue is the direct injection and the carbon build up. Remove the EGR as soon as you can. If your modding the car get a catch can as well as the EGR delete.
Shinte Him thank you for this
Do you do much track work? How's the car holding up?
I wanna get mine to 350 hp but I'll wait a bit. Warranty is good for 4 years so I'll do shit to it once its gone
2015 WRX 101k Here. Second trans, diff, and clutch. Only mod is intake.
Wow, mine has been flawless.
The rods are not "weak"...Almost any car with cast rods making too much boost/torque way down low like with the original factory map will snap rods..Add direct injection and that increases the likelihood, especially if you live in an area with shitt fuel..Engine failures seem not that common anymore since tuners have figured this out, and many people are pushing well over 350awhp with stock internals
I literally can only fill up at one gas station. These cars are finicky when it comes to gas, strangely enough it's not even a top tier gas station either, circle K right around the corner from my house gives me absolutely no knocks throughout the rpm range, everyother gas station gives me knock. As soon as I can afford it, I'm going E60
Super helpful, I was looking into getting this car and I plan on keeping it stock, thanks
Not really a common problem, but my 17 wrx blew out its rear differential within 15,000 miles. Car was bone stock, yet they tried to say that I was a terribly reckless driver after fixing it under warranty.
Pretty crazy, I hate how that's the dealer's first thought
just for future reference, launching any awd car is not a good idea. Im not saying you did, but just an fyi if you werent sure why yours blew up. Clutch dumping is a no no
Mine went last week. I'm 50 and not a racer. Sad.
I’d like to add that many people believe the stock tune is utter crap and may be a cause for bent rods when completely stock. I’d say get a reliable tune and mod it as much as you want as long as it stays under the reliable torque and horsepower limit.
I'm heavily considering trading mine next summer. I find these people with their MOD shit absolutely adorable, especially when they find out these motors are shit and break.
Mine is completely stock, all maintenance done on time at Dealerships, Motor just grenaded at 82k miles. Complete garbage and as durable as a wet paper bag 👎🏼
@@brodiwheeler7583 on my second short block fa20 first 28k second 39k all oil changes and maintenance on time and I didn't even beat on it. Even after getting it bsck this time, I hear a odd noise coming from engine when revving. Like a tapping or very light metallic rattle. Ppl best insult when I call out subarus, you probably don't change oil enough or drive too hard, ,not even close.
@@remissiveslave I know, I changed oil more than what the maintenance schedule advises at Dealers everytime and did every maintenance they recommended (Fuel Injection System Cleaning, PCV Valve etc.)... doesn’t even matter, weak design and faulty tuning with the over boosting and timing changes... plus the ‘12s-‘17 had a class action on the EJs for faulty oiling of the rod bearings, I assume not any better of a design on these FA20DITs... Hopefully class action lawsuit to come on these too. It’s just pure bad faith on Subaru’s part to be building engines that don’t hold up to the power they put out. Simply a weak NA motor design that was converted to forced induction that can’t hold up to the boosting with any longevity or durability. Subaru knows that most of them will be modded and/or crashed and they won’t have to fess up to their liability in a poorly designed powerplant in most cases. They have great driving dynamics for the money, but who cares if it won’t last long enough to get your money’s worth out of it... I mean, offset connecting rods on a performance motor??? In what Universe does that make sense? If you hear anything on a lawsuit or an unlikely admittance/TSB or recall, let me know and I’ll do the same! Never again giving my money to SOA. 👎🏼👎🏼
@@brodiwheeler7583 yet these losers on TH-cam who probably don't even have a license half the time will clamber to the typical check lists of excuses or user errors they presume led to the cars demise. I truly am puzzled how hard these wrx-sti drivers can get away from these trash bins breaking enough enough to make content to deceive people about how great they are.
@@brodiwheeler7583 haven't heard any class actions yet. Almost hit a deer this morning, unfortunately it chose to side with gieco.
Just bent a rod on my 2017 WRX :( I’m bone stock and I don’t push it that hard
Dang that sucks, maybe lugging the engine caused you to bend the rod. A good rule is to never floor it under 4k or drive too aggressively in lower rpms.
Ayo mayo good to know
4K is a little high. I always stick to 3k. That’s the average rpm minimum that I’ve seen people say
What is the point of a sports car that can’t handle high revs? 82k miles on my stock 2015 and chucked a rod. Complete Garbage!
Your explanation for carbon build up with direct injection is slightly confusing. With port injection, the intake valves are sprayed with fuel, which cleans them in a way and in turn reduces build up. Direct injection does not do this because the injectors are below the intake valves and spray directly into the cylinders. Direct injection actually reduces carbon build up in the the cylinders among other things. Your description makes it sound like direct injection creates carbon build up in general. Also, you want to purchase an intake cleaner, not just a fuel cleaner. Otherwise, great video!
I found a 6mt,92000 15 for 12 thousand, should I test drive it ,seems to be a good deal
Were there any revisions/changes made for the 2021 wrx? Someone told me head gaskets and better fuel injectors but not sure if that is correct
Should be looking at the brzs common problems we could very well have those at higher mileage. The main issue we need to address is intake valve buildup. We will ALL have to deal with this at some point in our cars life.
very true
@@AutoEnthusiast what brand gas do you use?
BRZ has Lexus Fueling system, they wont have carbon build up. Port and Direct injection.
True with regards to the connecting rods, but you'd have to be running a bigger turbo on higher boost to break one.
Not at all. I am almost certain LSPI is the death of rods for these cars.
I had my clutch, flywheel, bearing, fork replaced at 10k under warranty - the dealer said the fork was improperly installed from the factory causing premature failure in the flywheel and clutch
Crazy. That's a lot to get done 10k in...
What year?
Luckily my wifes car doesnt seem to have any of these problems fingers crossed
I’m still rocking my sexy 14 wrx hatchback
Good shit 👍 Absolutely my favorite hatch.
Hi I currently have a 2015 WRX. I have intermittent power loss relative to a misfire, but no codes Are showing up when the mechanic tries to diagnose the problem. They believe it’s in the ignition system but cannot tell me exactly where. It feels like a spark plug or coil pack, but I’m being told it could be computer or boost control module/waste gate. Any suggestions or do I start replacing parts. FYI I had an engine rebuild with new short block in 2019. Help!
You forgot the throw out bearing squeal. And shit clutches.
Any time a dealer offers to change something out under warranty, you can bet they are looking to increase the workload of the shop. Did they change them out? Or just tell you they did, and made a profit with a job that gets billed to the factory.
I'm bringing my 2016 in this week because I'm having problems cold starting my car in cold Temps (less than 30 degrees f) the car just doesn't want to turn over, I thought it was the battery and after replacing that I'm still experiencing hard cold starts after the car has been sitting over night in the cold
Aaron Younger mine does the same thing - my dealer said that’s normal - master tech said leave it on a trickle charger over night... I think it’s BS but it did solve the problem
I have had issues starting at below 0 sometimes.
@@Cfox2000 that's ridiculous!
Are you on the OEM battery still? I replaced mine after the first time I had issues and I haven't had problems since.
So the carbon build up issue can be kept under control with something like Techron fuel injector cleaner? Or do I have to go for a walnut valve cleaning eventually no matter what? Thanks.
Hey, just bought a 2016 forester xt, and wasn’t aware of these problems, I’m still planning on mods, but now aware of this, will be more continence about what I do to it!!!
Fb20 FAIL th-cam.com/video/-jDrkEEK99E/w-d-xo.html
Do you still own it? Thinking about getting one
@@itayr4827 yeah still going good, other than the CVT trans sucks, the car it self is good, hasn’t given me any issues the last 4 years
@@the_magical_gates232 wow great to hear. How many kms on the car? And cvt issues or u just don't like it
@@itayr4827 it has 98000km on it, my wife drives it, but it’s the main car we take everywhere, for the trans, they have a mechanical issue, but Subaru has given all there customers a 10 years unlimited millage warranty on the transmission, I’ve had mine changed once so far, beyond that, it’s a fun car to drive. The power is good 😊
The engine is a great design and produces really good horsepower and torque. All you need is a flex fuel kit and tune from phabotti and you’ll be happy.
Don’t forget intercooler, aos, and some sticky tires
I owned a 2008 Subaru STi with 63,000 miles in it, never had problem with my car, never had any cEL , a recall letter [ an air pump, relay and valve may closed and cause fire/ , emission control ] I got from Subaru prompted me to go to the dealer and had it corrected, a month. After .. I got a CEL p2441 .. means / air pump switching valve is stuck / closed. .. the very same recall correction Subaru fixed. I went back to Subaru and they are charging me for the diagnostic and repair.... I contacted the Subaru customer services ... the staff pretended to be like a long lost friend kinda ... gave me some assist advices who end up nowhere.... my 4th time me of going back to Subaru to I start to see some minor smoke and a burnt electrical smell from the engine bay, Subaru was charging me $ 1,400 for the repair ... now I decided to not go back there and have an independent mechanic fix who had charge me 190 buck for the whole fix.... Subaru dealers is a fraud ... again ... don’t patronize this Subaru as this is one of the biggest legit scammer In auto business. I’m getting my TESla pretty soon ... so fuck that Subaru.
Clark Kyle specifically for the Subaru franchised ...and Subaru dealership .. biggest scam warning, all is warned. If you see this post not helpful to your situation then ignore it, simple as that.
Se Zwo bro those recall has expirations , get it done make a copy of all docs, transactions
@@sezwo5774 as a rule, I never bring my vehicles to dealerships especially for recall crap
would be nice if you could have shown us a picture of the connecting rods
So what is good gas !? Thought 91 is 91
What type of fuel cleaner
Blew mine to the fucking moon and back shifting into second with 5psi of boost I’m pretty pissed lol
th-cam.com/video/-jDrkEEK99E/w-d-xo.html
Just sold my 335i, i spent 3k in repairs... Sad thing is I only drove the car for 12k miles. Ive been looking into a Subaru, but I’m really concerned that I might run into another money pit. I’m looking at a 2015 Subaru with 42k miles. Stock clutch, Cobb accessport, Invidia exhaust, mishimoto intake. Guy wants 21k. Good deal? Anything to look for specifically? I’ve read some posts saying the clutch is relatively weak, so the fact that it’s still on a stock clutch was almost a deal breaker.
Im thinking of getting a wrx but i heard the head gaskets go bad and youll have to take out the engine for that
I am planning on getting a 2019 wrx, after video I feel like I should be getting a lexus for reliability.
However I like to go snowboarding alot and need all wheel drive. What do you guys think? 2019 wrx or other lexus car in $30,000 range.
Phu Dao. A Lexus LS430 could be the best investment for your money imo. Those things have it all, comfort, luxury, power and reliability.
What u get?
@@Ballsack44 Lexus 2015 IS F sport
Bought a 2019 wrx straight for dealer the premium with cvt and this whole car feels flimsy . Deff needs better suspension and braking , waste of money . But at least they don’t break down if u never tune it
did you test drive one before hand? Unless you have been driving that was built to race, I am pretty surprised you are finding that... the suspensions from the factory are pretty decent, and one of the main reasons the WRX is so popular.
Auto Enthusiast I mean I just sold my 2011 335xi and I’m used to the m suspension I guess . It’s deff decent but 85mph+ its to light on the steering , I know the suspension is super comfy but I’d rather have it stiffer and lower . Not a bad car but they could have easily added better suspension n brakes
Interesting, having driven lots of BMWs, 335xi, and 335is's, I would say the WRX suspension far outperforms the BMW's... I agree with the brakes, the stock brakes aren't great, but easy to factory upgrade.
Georgi Teofilov I agree. Suspension is good up til about 70-75 then it feels flighty. I’m use to VW and Audi.. never felt that with them but I’ve been replacing everything with stiffer components and it has dramatically changed the WRX.
George Teofilov they break even if they’re stock. I can testify. 82k miles and the motor detonated. Get rid of them before the powertrain warranty is over, or you’ll be sorry just like me.
I see alot of used 2015 to 2018s wrxs with only 10 20 30 40k miles on them. Id love to know why they sold them!
PFFFFT! I have 50k on a 2016 been ProTuned to 290/326 since 24k 😂🤘🏻🔥
Because they’re smart and are selling them before the powertrain warranty is up... rod/rod bearings are about as strong as a wet noodle.
You hit the nail on the head, these rods are why l traded in my WRX, there is more info about this on MRT Performance, they have a video that shows what happens to these rods when the engine reaches 21 pounds of boost or more, the rods break and bend, knocking pieces off the piston skirt, search this on TH-cam : (Subaru engine comparison, FA20, internal weakness secrets) this engine should not be equipped with a turbo, it is too weak.
Gregory Shaffer should’ve just went stage 2 iag block
I trust soa to deliver an honest product. I doubt they would design a motor for millions of dollars just for it to blow at max STOCK boost. I just dont believe that. Yes if you run it it will break. But i hit 21 pounds everyday almost mine is running solid af. Just saying. If i do blow a rod its covered so let it blow before 36k
About to make the switch to amsoil sig. Im done with this subaru oil.
Dallas Williams yet that’s exactly whats happened.... same with all the ej25’s that came out after model year 06. Long gone are the days of the 4g63, ej20, F20C, 2jz, rb26... our closest engine relative is the 2.3L disi mzr (mazdaspeed 3&6) look it up con rod design is very similar only the fa has an offset.
That's exactly what happened to my 2015 WRX. There's two morons In the other comments that are arguing with me that I'm wrong about it that think they know everything. I shouldn't be responding to them anymore because they're probably lying POS trolls, but I feel it's Important for everyone else reading to know the facts of what happened in my case
Thank you I have a 2018 wrx
Nice
Do you still have it and is it still reliable
The connecting rods are offset not curved so the actual rod part isn't straight to where it would connect to the crankshaft
I have a completely stock 2017 wrx can the connecting rod issue happen
unlikely
Yes. The stock tune is crap even worse on 91 octane. And loading the motor (low rpm heavy throttle) and high revs for long periods can cause bending rods. or spun bearing issues.
@@surfjujitsu2456 You are correct, 82k miles on stock 2015 Dealer services on time every time... threw a rod and I am pissed! Weak AF
@@brodiwheeler7583 dam sorry that happend. I ended up selling my 18 wrx have a 20 audi s3 now.
@@surfjujitsu2456 Smart. Bet that S3 is Fun!
There were some service bulletins about remapping/replacing of ECU & Leakdown tests pertaining to possibilities of knock that I got notified of shortly after I purchased in 2015, I asked the Dealer about them at that time and they said it didn’t apply to mine... turns out they did now that I looked them up. I also had done 2 PCV Valves and a fuel injection system cleaning around 60k because I was experiencing rough idle, which is one of the symptoms listed in the TSB that the Dealer never advised or bothered to try looking at, just sold me the other services. The work for the TSB is quite extensive and probably doesn’t pay much for warranty/factory pay, so the Dealer probably didn’t want to get into it... I guess me and the dealer and SOA have some talking to do about how to work this out. Might have to give Audi/VW a try on the next vehicle and be more on top of checking Technical Service Bulletins myself and getting them documented in the future if the Dealer is trying to weasel out of them. Safe Rallyin Brah 🤙🏼
question i consider buying a 2015 wrx , what if i was to keep it stock or just minor mods like a bpv and upgraded intake would the connecting rod still be an issue?
Intake isn't a minor mod, its a full tune. You should be fine though. It is always a risk when tuning your car.
I had a 2015 , 20g turbo, meth injection, Injectors, full exhaust, in take, intercooler, 370hp to the ground, here is the key..Professionally Tunned. Ran the shit out of it daily with no problems.
I’ve had my 2016 Rex for 8 years and nothing crazy so far. 🥹🥺❤️❤️❤️
Clutch is also a pretty weak point. My stage 2 2018 wrx clutch went out at 12,000 miles
Did you upgrade to something aftermarket?
Act extreme clutch kit with flywheel. Also my transmission/ front diff fluid was pitch black and burn. Put motul tranny fluid in and absolutely love the setup
I have heard of clutches going early. Don't understand it other than there must be a few odd anomalies. I just changed my '15 wrx clutch at 78k miles and I had been autocrossing, 4,500rmp launches and burned it up a bit when I first got it trying to get used to the abrupt clutch engagement. I'd say it held up pretty well.
Mark Foster I had probably 20 launches down the drag stop at 5200 rpm and at least another 20 launches on the street. I’m liking my act clutch and it’s been amazing
So what kind of gas shuld I use the normal or the good some time or what
Shell V Power
How are the transmissions in these? linkage seem to hold up? do the syncros go bad?
My 2015 wrx has 110k miles on it and I have not noticed any issues with the linkage or syncros
If you had to go back, would you buy this car again? I'm thinking about trading my 2018 Accord Sport 1.5 T to a new WRX but i read mix reviews about it as far for the reliability. i wanted to get your honest opinion.
I am on my second, and will continue to buy them lol
You might want to watch savage geese, he can correctly explain carbon build up with direct injection engines to you.
Fuel cleaner won't help with carbon build up, it will be direct injected as well.
Just curious...do the forged pistons in the 2019 WRX STI negate ring land failure or decrease the chance of it occurring? Thanks ahead of time for your insight on this.
Thanks for asking and a really good question! My short answer is I am not sure, and I don't think anyone is yet. I don't know enough about the new assembly to make a determination. Typically, we will have to wait 3-6 months from the first delivery to hear about problems. Subaru has claimed to fix it for a couple years now, so it is hard to say.
Do you have a 19 STI?
Yes, just got it a month ago.
@@Rr23dd how do you like it so far? Notice any of the "major" changes they have made?
Auto Enthusiast thanks for asking, I love it. Previously sold a 2016 STI and here’s what I like in the 2019: Inside - the big media screen, the seats, more areas that have a carbon fiber look, and the red seatbelt. Outside - big brakes, larger rims, headlights move with turning, and the use of a carbon fiber look on the front and back. The roof has visible attachments for a roof rack - not sure if that was on the 2018, but it’s nice to have. I loved my 2016, and love the 2019 more. Also, I believe that since 2019 is the last of this body style, and with the forged pistons, larger brakes, larger rims, etc. this will someday be a sought after Subie commanding a higher resale. Forgot to mention: the change in the 3rd gear is great, no turbo lag either, at least I haven’t noticed any.
I’d like to add that I had a misfire on a spark plug and my intercooler went out at 15k miles. They replaced both under warranty, but then proceeded to tell me that I shouldn’t drive my car fast..... I bought a WRX not a fucking Camry.. Anyway, my question is, to someone whom may know more about the engine and car... what is a safe amount of HP and TQ to push on e85 without losing too much reliability? I’d appreciate a response, thank you.
Sorry to hear about the misfire. The second you tune to e85, you are already reducing reliability. I don't there is necessarily a number for hp and torq that marks the loss of reliability. Typically I hear about people having issues with serious engine components when they pass the 300whp mark. Most people that have had connecting rod issues from what I understand are around there.
leaving my 16 wrx Stock, 70,000 miles no problems
highest miles count ive seen without any problems. Any tips?? No throw out bearing issues?
Any differences from 16-19 and the 20.
This is incorrect, the chamber will be clean, the build up occurs on the valves as there is no fuel spraying them like port injection would. The cylinders will remain clean for the most part. The remedy to caked up valves is port Injection, charge pipe meth Injection, or wal nut blasting every 50k miles maybe less.
Glad I came across this video. I was thinking about dumping 9g for mods. I'm definitely going to be shortening my list and saving my engine
This dudes a bafoon the rods are thinner and do to that the bend at high boost under low rpm. If you use a reputable tuner they have discovered this problem and dont run high boost down low.
I mean boost has little effect on a rods tensile strength and fracture point. I do agree a high/low pressure scenario may aggravate the force on the rods, but no, most tuners are going to recommend a manley rod/sleeve setup most of the time.
Amazing episode man. thanks
so there is nothing wrong with stock form, everything you and everyone else refer to is after market tuning, all none stock use regardless if its day to day use, volvo also used direct injection 35 yrs ago known as cis system and was mechanical, not electronic, I love the wrx ,too bad they don't use the fb 20 short block which shows great promise, maybe not set up yet for forced induction
so.... your basically saying I should have bought a Honda 🤣🤣🤣
My 2019 WRX had a fuel pump burn out after only 11,800 miles..... leaving me stranded 40 miles outside of Tucson. Not cool.
Cory Bass im planning on getting one so far what other problems have you ran into?
@@justinblas7814 - that's the only problem. Just don't get in the habit of always filling your tank on empty like I did, but instead never let it get lower than 1/4 tank, and keeping that fuel level at all times as a minimum should help keep the fuel pump cool.... less likely to burn up.
Cool! Do you still have the wrx? Im in the glendale area and trying to get one for atleast arnd under $20k to keep the monthly payments low
@@justinblas7814 - yes but not selling mine. Bought mine via RC Auto / north phx. They might be able to find you something used, but resale values on Subies are generally high, so good luck!
@@corybass4169 so i guess you have to use 91 octane all the time with those turbos
Rods are not curved they're off set. So i doesn't sit in the middle of the rod cap end.
Great video man. Have a 2017. Got 30k miles on it. Runs great so far, but what I will say is an annoyance I've noticed when I'm on 3rd gear giving it light acceleration, the motor will suddenly cut power then immediately resume. Kinda like a stutter or flutter in power. Its difficult to explain unless you experience it first hand. I want to say it's the terrible stock tuning in the vehicle computer chip that might be causing the engine to 'hiccup.' Anyone else encountering this?
It’s pulling timing to avoid breaking the weak sauce rods. Get rid of it before the powertrain warranty is up like I should have done with mine. Hear me now, believe me later.
@@brodiwheeler7583 yikes thanks for this info. Planning on selling it soon
@@marcoseesmarcoshares That was my plan and I shoulda stuck to it. Bone stock ‘15 Dealer Maintained on time the whole time... just detonated a rod at 82k miles. Super Pissed 😤 Good luck 🤙🏼
@@brodiwheeler7583 im thinking about buying a 17-19 Wrx with around 50k miles. Should I stay away from it?
@@TheDragonslayer119 I mean, you do you... Consider a powertrain warranty. They are the most fun driving cars for the money, Just know that eventually, Repair$ will come. I had my fun and was a big fan of the brand, now I’m moving on.
click bait.....should be "Common Problems with the 2015-2019 Subaru WRX | Connecting Rod Failure ON TUNED ENGINE".....
It happens on stock motors too.
Keep the torque in check and the car will be fine.
I daily drive my 2021 Wrx manual. Putting 43k kilometers about 26k miles in 6 months. So far no issues. I've done trans, diff oils. Engine oil and filter every 10k km. Air, cabin filters replaced. Topped off coolant once. Stock dunlop still going strong about to change them soon. My only issue with the car, shifts are notchy even after trans oil change. Fuel consumption is high since day one. It's not efficient as Golf GTI with stage 1 tune :). Cabin noisy. I wish it had better exhaust, better tune, rotors and coolant system out of the box. But reliability wise, it drives like new everyday.
Why is your face the face of every Suburu WRX video I watch. You drive a CVT.
and a manual 2016? cvt issues? sounds like ignorance lol
I’ve been considering getting a wrx, a used one just came in it’s gott 100,000 miles and the clutch feels kinda fucked, think I should buy it or?
If the clutch is fucked it’s safe to assume that the previous owner beat on it. Just keep looking for better condition ones with maintenance records. Good luck I’m looking for one too 👍
Hello . I have a 2019 WRX I've notice I some times have a issue with my clutch or 1st gear catching .......... Don't know if its me ?
Ted Wong turn off hill assist. That might help
Where do you keep your left foot? Off the clutch as soon as possible, don’t drag! How often is your hand on the shifter, bad habit, keep your hand off the shifter when your not changing gears....check with others....Jim
4600 km 2019 wrx 6mt - reverse shredded to metal bits.
Wait is that a common issue I have that exact car
thx for the heads up before I buy one
Thanks man, I am looking for a awd car and the WRX with the FA20 enging really interests me. Maybe I will lease one to see if I like it!
My advice is get rid of it before it’s out of warranty like I had planned to do with my stock 2015... Foolishly kept it til 82k miles and it broke a rod, engine is toast. Fun to drive, but not to keep long term. Fragile Engines.
Fuel plug on deciding top of tank melted
Thats why there's so much recon 2015 wrx in online market
Which is more reliable? WRX or dodge charger?
In my opinion, a WRX...
Wrx.
You won’t believe the retards that drive the wrx and how they beat on them and yet these cars keep going. Treat them good do your oil changes and don’t abuse them and they will last forever with few maintenances.
Charger or Fiesta and focus st!! Way more reliable!
ramonahumada4
Stop smoking, Subaru’s are way more reliable lol.
Desmond Miles easily WRX. dodge chargers only have issues. such shitty quality cars in all honesty.
That's why I am stopping at Stage 1 for now
Probably a good call, but to each their own
@@AutoEnthusiast safe tuning is directly proportional to how much you can spend. Cutting corners will cost you later, and often times more that if you did it right the first time.
IMHO anything beyond Stage 3 should be on a built block with a closed deck.
what about the problem with the trunk button not working and you can't open the trunk unless you have the key with you lol
How is that a problem? I`d hope that`s behavior by design!
rumguk not when it’s keyless access I shouldn’t need to push the trunk button and then have the key back by the trunk just to be able to open it
@@millz_7114 >Maybe I misunderstand something, but it wouldn`t sound like a great idea that any guy at a traffic light would be able to open the trunk then.
In regards to pressing the trunk button inside the car (i actually don`t know if it requires that the keyfob is inside the car for that actually...but why wouldn`t it be there, had to open the door somehow?) Anyhow, I have no issue with pressing the trunk button inside the car. When doing so, it actually does spring open the trunk lit for me. The button at the trunk has no function after pressing the internal trunk button and I can just lift the trunk lit up. This is 2016 EU model.
rumguk 2016 NA model the interior trunk button does absolutely nothing on my car
2015 blown engine. 64K miles, bone stock, not driven hard. $15K to fix.
MJ Guru 15k on a motor buddy? Did you buy it from Subaru lol.
2015 82k mi. Bone stock, serviced religiously at dealership only. Broken Rod, engine is toast... Total Trash! 👎🏼
Every chain has its weak link.
th-cam.com/video/-jDrkEEK99E/w-d-xo.html
@@alexandriavinichenko3973 ..."Subaru Nuggets" Classic!
These cars require an Italian tune-up every once in a while 😂
Not sure why a boxer engine is a benefit... they are much more complicated than other 4cyls being they have 2 heads rather than 1. There have been many inline 4cyl turbo engines that can reliably handle 400+whp on stock internals... Not sure why Subaru couldn't get that right, nonetheless the FA is a improvement over the EJ
Only benefits are low center of gravity and just a smaller size engine overall. Also well balanced.
Downside is maintenance is a pain.
Great video 👍
But great video, very informative
Thanks
What about my offroading
It is far worse than what he is talking about .....look at all the complaints since 2007 through 20013 then just as big of issues with the 20014 and 2015. If you start with a power steering leak and have warranty.......get it to a dealer. Their limit is 60K and my son first changed the oil at 1000 miles and every 3000 after that. It is not a worn engine it is the connected components to the steering ...power train....long block....radiator ....transmission etc.. Google it.....it is true.....it happened to us. Thank God above that it was in the dealer's hands when it blew apart. We got a new short block and reworked valves of course gaskets...etc...etc.
Surprised you didn't mention anything about the pitch stop mounts breaking....
Haven't heard that many people complain about them. Have you had one go?
@@AutoEnthusiast There is a recall for it on both wrx and sti models. They were breaking on stock cars as well.
good to know! thanks!
Just bought 2018 wrx limited, give prize to subaru owner (like me) please!
your in the drawing!
im a wrx premium owner in black, can I enter the drawing?🙂
Any issues thus far?
th-cam.com/video/-jDrkEEK99E/w-d-xo.html