You should have mentioned that if you get a better control board then you don't need tl smoother, if the new board has tmc drivers then the dampers aren't needed either.
I just built my first 3d printer and this video came out in perfect timing because I had a ton of questions and now I know what I need. Thank you and keep.the videos coming. Happy 3d printing.
Quick FYI for people, the 2mm silicone LED strips fit into the groves of a standard 2020 rail , and it dosnt conflict with the wheels - so you can add it to you Z gantry on the inside and have fantastic lighting on your parts.
I am going to elaborate on the TL-smoothers. When you need them: TL-smoothers are needed when your 3D printer has the A4988 or Drv8825 (and maybe L6470) these are “last gen” stepper drivers and dont output “smooth” signals. 8 diode TL-smoothers in those cases will lessen the effects of the noisy signal. The effect is commonly referred to as salmon skin. When you dont need them: You will not need these if you are running any TMC2xxx (for example tmc2100) drivers and you will also not need them on any TB6xxx or LV8729 drivers. Because those drivers produce clean signals so they will not create any “salmon skin” effect. If you do decide to use a tl-smoother on any of those you will in fact worsen the printing quality. I hope i informed someone and helped them if they had a question about this subject
Does my Ender 3D V.1.1.5 Mainboard have TCM Stepper Drivers? Should i upgrade to a new Mainboard and does it affect Quality? You seem like you know much! Your Comment helped me!
for me the best bought upgrades are stiffened springs, PEI on glass bed, and BLtouch ,Octoprint and bigtreetech skr mini e3 best printed upgrades are z-motor shim (fix), rear electronics box, front tool box, bullseye parts cooling duct.
I would like to say the DUET Motherboard replaces the need for Motor Dampers, TL Smoother, and Raspberry Pi (Octoprint). If I knew that before I went and upgraded all the previous things over time. I would of just went straight to the Duet 2 WiFi.
The spool holder is the only one you need for any config. I personally mounted on my wall and use the provided printable bearings. Added a few drops baby oil to the bearings and it effortlessly rolls as if they are metal. Print this holder if you need a reliable one.
One you forgot to mention is a filament run out sensor. I am getting my Ender 3 ready to install one . The firmware has been updated and wires have been soldered into place, I am just waiting for my limit switch
How often does this come in handy? I rarely find I would need one as if I'm running low on filament I only print smaller things and just throw out spools with less than 50g
If you're getting the Filler spool holder for a Creality printer with the metal spool holder, get the remixed one. The original has a joint that buckles under the weight. The remixed one combines the holder and the base and eliminates the joint, making it sturdy.
I printed carbon filament with a brass nozzle for an entire roll without noticing any deviation in my prints. Then I switched to a cheap hardened steel nozzle- which I've been very impressed with. A steel file glides over it without biting.
One thing you missed on, although most people will never need, is an upgraded heat break. Mine just recently broke so I decided to get a E3D titanium break. I haven't got it yet so I can't comment on how well it works, but I can't imagine it being worse then the stainless steel ones that most printers use. Wish I had it before mine broke, now I have to wait for it to get here to continue printing.
I just got a ctc for Christmas and had to do a few mandatory upgrades. The seller I bough from cut corners, not ctc’s fault. Needless to say, had a faulty motor and instead of a regular sized heat bed there was a 3 inch heat bed kapton taped to an aluminum plate. Can share a picture in your discord if you want to see. After I ordered a new heat bed and motor this thing prints like a dream
BL Touch, a good way to descend into madness. From drifting by .3 mm to just failures in the coil. Adjustment screw only helped in the short term with the drifting however at that point I rather just have a z endstop. Now if you want a good device, look at ir sensors.
I went mad trying to figure out the software upgrades and just returned it and spent the money on a metal extruder, Capricorn tubing, glass bed, and silent mainboard. Much better use of 75 dollars.
You can put TL smoothers on a CR-10? Can you put smoothers in a CR-10S? Cause if you can I’m definitely going to put my spare smoothers in there. Thank you spare upgrades!
You don't need motor dampers if your controller board has a good motor drives. It is better to have a good controller board than a hack for a small problem.
Good video.i agree with you,but some things have to be considered. Would be nice to have the upgrades done and tested as well. For example the bl touch/any auto leveling system.it's easier to learn to do a perfect bed leveling than trying to get them going and keep them that way.they're a unneeded pain. Linear rails,there are machines that have worse results with them,due to they're tight tolerances.a bit of play it's good sometimes.
I wonder if it would be possible to feed one palette 2 into another. Maybe have four of them attached to the inputs of one to have 16 colour printing rather than just 4
I need some help with firmware update, I tried to install a CR touch to my Ender 3 pro, now my screen is glitchy and my printer won't home. Any one have any ideas what steps I can take to get back to factory settings?
Hey great vid, I been looking for something to replace the glass bed, bc I have tried mirrors and other type build plates. What do you think would be the best way to get a build plate to replace the others out there to get true level one. Thanks pluse I’ve already have most these upgrade, but was happy to hear they now have a lifetime nozzle 👍👍👍
@@3DNow you have not credited my item on the video as I requested LAST month! I find this to be more than adequate time. Please do so in the next 24 hrs or I will have no option to flag this video.
TBH I don't agree much with that list (no offence! people have different opinions) I'd first upgrade the extruder (very important) than the hotend. the capricorn tubing is nearly a gimmick.
This looks awesome. Except, I don't own/know much about 3D printing. Like, can any nozzle on a 3D printer be changed? Is the nozzle the only thing you have to change to use different size filaments? (And different materials?) And lastly, are you able to change a Bowden to a direct driver?
nozzles can be changed, would be bad if you could not, most are M6 but there is no doubt some that use other threads you have to change extruders and mess with the software i believe yes did so with my cr10s, went from the stock bowden to the aero made by E3D
Pretty much every part can be changed out. The ones that have no electronics are probably easiest. I wouldn't worry about it until you need to, though. You'll have plenty to do just with the stock machine.
See if this makes sense. The Mosaic Palette 2/Pro deposits color filament inside the object that nobody is going to see. But in order to do that it has to change colors by dumping a whole lot of waste to a secondary brick. So while printing a many color object why not just have the exterior shell of that object where the colors are needed get printed and the filler can be whatever base color you like or it can be the "waste" material used as in-fill. Mosaic isn't the only method of integrating multiple materials or colors into your objects. There is another that mounts up to 8 spools for integration onto nearly any single or multiple extrusion head 3D printer. It was featured in a video on 3D Printing Nerd's channel from 2019. Sorry I can't think of it more precisely as it is late and I am too tired to dig it up.
I would recommend the EZABL by TH3D studios instead of BLtouch. The EZABL is more accurate, more repeatable and easier to wire up. No hardware modifications required apart from the mount. If you wish, you can power it from the motherboard but that's a hardware modification you'll need to do if you so desire. Firmware change is nonetheless required, but is a bit easier.
I already disagree with number 1... You only should use hardened steel for abrasive filament. I also find Tough Tube to have a better tolerance, and cut better anyway. Also, the blower fan shroud you printed is cracked. Lol. Filament guide squeaks like crazy (I'm about to experiment with gluing a small piece of sponge to mine for greasing/wiping filament)
I am crazy looking for information on which printer to be my first one, for the moment, it is either ender 3, ender 5 or one delta printer either the "ANYCUBIC KOSSEL PLUS DELTA" or the "FLSUN 3D METAL FRAME KOSSEL DELTA" would anyone be kind enough to post their thoughts on which of these printers would be best to help me make the final decision? by the way, great videos, keep up the good work
I've got an anycubic kossel plus Delta, and a creality cr10. They both work well, though I think the kossel has a more robust extruder setup. It's been printing beautifully right after assembly, while my cr10 has needed some upgrades to print reliably.
Seems like this went with the most expensive, not the best upgrades. Especially the last category. 1.Hemera??? What a waste of money, nothing revolutionary, and mounting is a joke. The PrinterMods direct drive upgrade is inexpensive and allows for dozens of hotend/extruder combos along with ready to mount linear bearing guide mounts for less than $40. I highly recommend taking a look at this for yourself. 2. Duet board??? This is another huge waste of money when can go with a SKR board for silent 32 bit 2209 driver replacement at less than $30. You have fantastic video quality and narration but think this list was hugely bias to E3D products that are all over priced and not as great as described.
I disagree, the Hemera is an all in one beast in its self. While I agree it's overpriced its because there was a team that designed it for optimal use. Mounting is an issue but can be solved with creativity. The Hemera also allows for a lot of different uses that a $40 system cannot handle. I do completely agree with the SKR instead of a duet board.
Love the video but honestly the BLtouch is over rated, a simple cheap mechanical switch does the job, or another type of sensor even tho they have to be recalibrated if you change your print bed.
Trianglelabs is still risky you'll get bad parts and have to buy the stuff again. I gave them a try and got there bondtech version and it had terrible clearance issues. You had to really squeeze the idle side to get it to close, the bowden attachment didn't fit without filing and shaving away parts. When I brought all of that up with them they pretty much said too bad, that happens sometimes with cheaper molds, yes they admitted they use the cheap molds if it wasn't already obvious, and I shouldn't bother buying anything else from them if I didn't want to mess with things to get them to work. I got a volcano hotend with the same order and never used it after that interaction with them and gave it away. Remember they're cheaper for a reason, they cut corners using designs other people spent years coming up with to be perfect. Im sure some stuff works fine, but if you get a dudd, don't expect any helpful customer service.
I would much rather buy products and support the companies who actually innovated and created them in the first place. I would rather buy a high quality product that I know will work and last. Also, with the actual companies you have customer service.
No offense but, how on earth is an LED strip a "hard" upgrade. You literally just plug it into a power outlet, whereas a "moderate" upgrade such as the bl touch, involves a complete re-flash of the software.
This video really didn't age well. Either that or it wasn't good to begin with. A steel nozzle is only a good idea if you are using abrasive filaments with stuff embedded in them. Otherwise, they have worse heat transfer which can impact print quality. Do yourself a favor and get a bag of 30 brass nozzles on Temu for $6. If it's worn, clogged, or crashed into the bed, just replace it. Also, don't bother with capricorn snake oil tubing... just get a bi-metal heat break. Only costs a little more, but it's not a wear item and actually fixes the problem. I'm not sure if those smoothers actually work, but I wouldn't use them. The rest isn't bad. Obviously there is new stuff... do klipper firmware with MainSail or Fluidd instead of octoprint so many benefits to klipper. BL touch if you don't have it is great. BTT makes great boards for a decent price. Rails are all the rage now too.
Palette 2 doesn't really work, 70%+ failure rate with the product constantly jamming and many design faults that cause constant failures. Customer service from Mosaic is hopeless and the product only prints at 1/3 the advertised print speed
You should have mentioned that if you get a better control board then you don't need tl smoother, if the new board has tmc drivers then the dampers aren't needed either.
I never needed them with the 4988 either as it is just one of the versions (I forget which one) that needed them. I use TMC now though.
the dampers are shit anyway. they mess up the accuracy...
3 years old and still the most informative and actually useful vid ive seen. Thank you sir!
I just built my first 3d printer and this video came out in perfect timing because I had a ton of questions and now I know what I need. Thank you and keep.the videos coming. Happy 3d printing.
Quick FYI for people, the 2mm silicone LED strips fit into the groves of a standard 2020 rail , and it dosnt conflict with the wheels - so you can add it to you Z gantry on the inside and have fantastic lighting on your parts.
Great video! Nice surprise to see one of my designs at 7:59
Nice work. That would be so cool.
I am going to elaborate on the TL-smoothers.
When you need them:
TL-smoothers are needed when your 3D printer has the A4988 or Drv8825 (and maybe L6470) these are “last gen” stepper drivers and dont output “smooth” signals. 8 diode TL-smoothers in those cases will lessen the effects of the noisy signal. The effect is commonly referred to as salmon skin.
When you dont need them:
You will not need these if you are running any TMC2xxx (for example tmc2100) drivers and you will also not need them on any TB6xxx or LV8729 drivers. Because those drivers produce clean signals so they will not create any “salmon skin” effect.
If you do decide to use a tl-smoother on any of those you will in fact worsen the printing quality.
I hope i informed someone and helped them if they had a question about this subject
Does my Ender 3D V.1.1.5 Mainboard have TCM Stepper Drivers? Should i upgrade to a new Mainboard and does it affect Quality? You seem like you know much! Your Comment helped me!
for me the best bought upgrades are stiffened springs, PEI on glass bed, and BLtouch ,Octoprint and bigtreetech skr mini e3
best printed upgrades are z-motor shim (fix), rear electronics box, front tool box, bullseye parts cooling duct.
The steel has half the thermal conductivity of brass and needs the heat to be turned up much higher to work properly
It's about 5 degrees C more.
I notice you are not using the capricorn tubing that you mentioned. Smart move because capricorn is 5/32" outside diameter instead of 4mm.
I would like to say the DUET Motherboard replaces the need for Motor Dampers, TL Smoother, and Raspberry Pi (Octoprint). If I knew that before I went and upgraded all the previous things over time. I would of just went straight to the Duet 2 WiFi.
Damn ok👀👌
"The last nozzle you'll ever need" "oh look a ruby nozzle"
Cowboy Boots the ruby nozzle has worse heat conduction then a standard metal nozzle and if if it does wear then you get a new one for ***FREE***
@@AquaticSCP Is "worse heat conduction" good or bad?
Why I love my flashforge finder 3D printer because it has most of these upgrades
Dampers at 7:10 application suck as they won't let you to tension the belt
The spool holder is the only one you need for any config. I personally mounted on my wall and use the provided printable bearings. Added a few drops baby oil to the bearings and it effortlessly rolls as if they are metal. Print this holder if you need a reliable one.
FlexPlate for the heatbed is really a game changer. One of the best upgrades to my Anet A6 printer.
As long as you print pla only
@@Raruschmaru I use if for PETG and ABS. Even PA with gluestick. This is help.prusa3d.com/en/materials great help.
One you forgot to mention is a filament run out sensor. I am getting my Ender 3 ready to install one . The firmware has been updated and wires have been soldered into place, I am just waiting for my limit switch
How often does this come in handy? I rarely find I would need one as if I'm running low on filament I only print smaller things and just throw out spools with less than 50g
Ey filament innovations 🤙 (I work there lol. What a small world)
If you're getting the Filler spool holder for a Creality printer with the metal spool holder, get the remixed one. The original has a joint that buckles under the weight. The remixed one combines the holder and the base and eliminates the joint, making it sturdy.
I printed carbon filament with a brass nozzle for an entire roll without noticing any deviation in my prints. Then I switched to a cheap hardened steel nozzle- which I've been very impressed with. A steel file glides over it without biting.
One thing you missed on, although most people will never need, is an upgraded heat break. Mine just recently broke so I decided to get a E3D titanium break.
I haven't got it yet so I can't comment on how well it works, but I can't imagine it being worse then the stainless steel ones that most printers use.
Wish I had it before mine broke, now I have to wait for it to get here to continue printing.
I just got a ctc for Christmas and had to do a few mandatory upgrades. The seller I bough from cut corners, not ctc’s fault. Needless to say, had a faulty motor and instead of a regular sized heat bed there was a 3 inch heat bed kapton taped to an aluminum plate. Can share a picture in your discord if you want to see. After I ordered a new heat bed and motor this thing prints like a dream
Thanks for this video. Do you plan on doing an updated version?
BL Touch, a good way to descend into madness. From drifting by .3 mm to just failures in the coil. Adjustment screw only helped in the short term with the drifting however at that point I rather just have a z endstop. Now if you want a good device, look at ir sensors.
I went mad trying to figure out the software upgrades and just returned it and spent the money on a metal extruder, Capricorn tubing, glass bed, and silent mainboard. Much better use of 75 dollars.
An onboard camera would be the best feature ;-)
What about ac heated beds for large printers
All of those buildtak options are nice but they don't work with ABS due to ABS demanding ~110c bed temp so 105-120c. The glue sticky is the issue.
You can put TL smoothers on a CR-10? Can you put smoothers in a CR-10S? Cause if you can I’m definitely going to put my spare smoothers in there. Thank you spare upgrades!
You don't need motor dampers if your controller board has a good motor drives. It is better to have a good controller board than a hack for a small problem.
i just bough the cr 10 max , cant wait to start printing
Also if your going linear rails your really going to want to have a nice dial indicator for squareness
These are conveyed as good upgrades in theory or cursory rather than from actual iterative experience.
Good video.i agree with you,but some things have to be considered.
Would be nice to have the upgrades done and tested as well.
For example the bl touch/any auto leveling system.it's easier to learn to do a perfect bed leveling than trying to get them going and keep them that way.they're a unneeded pain.
Linear rails,there are machines that have worse results with them,due to they're tight tolerances.a bit of play it's good sometimes.
Best video for 3D Printer Upgrades!
What do you think of the ruby nozzle?
Clear Bowden does have an advantage, you can see when the filament reaches the hot end!
Yeah but in terms of performance the Capricorn tubing is by far the best. Also you should be able to feel when the filament gets to the nozzle.
I wonder if it would be possible to feed one palette 2 into another. Maybe have four of them attached to the inputs of one to have 16 colour printing rather than just 4
th-cam.com/video/e051w27k6W0/w-d-xo.html
@@3DNow Thank you very much
I need some help with firmware update, I tried to install a CR touch to my Ender 3 pro, now my screen is glitchy and my printer won't home. Any one have any ideas what steps I can take to get back to factory settings?
Hey great vid, I been looking for something to replace the glass bed, bc I have tried mirrors and other type build plates. What do you think would be the best way to get a build plate to replace the others out there to get true level one. Thanks pluse I’ve already have most these upgrade, but was happy to hear they now have a lifetime nozzle 👍👍👍
3D printed tool stand on video is my design in thingyverse. Could you please credit it accordingly and place a link on the description.
Sure!
@@3DNow you have not credited my item on the video as I requested LAST month! I find this to be more than adequate time. Please do so in the next 24 hrs or I will have no option to flag this video.
The link is, and has been in the description since the day you asked! Look!!!
@@3DNow Much appreciated.
The TL smoothers do they work for the anycubic Kobra neo
I own a custom CR10S and ender3 v2 both I need help fixing
TBH I don't agree much with that list (no offence! people have different opinions)
I'd first upgrade the extruder (very important) than the hotend. the capricorn tubing is nearly a gimmick.
Thanks for sharing this!
where you get the 3D printed raspberry pi case and clip for it?
Thingiverse.com
@@3DNow Do you have a link for the model? I'm struggling to find the one you showed, and I like the clip on design instead of rail mounting
@@Seaweedaids , #2630252
@@michaels3003 Thankyou!
This looks awesome. Except, I don't own/know much about 3D printing.
Like, can any nozzle on a 3D printer be changed?
Is the nozzle the only thing you have to change to use different size filaments? (And different materials?)
And lastly, are you able to change a Bowden to a direct driver?
nozzles can be changed, would be bad if you could not, most are M6 but there is no doubt some that use other threads
you have to change extruders and mess with the software i believe
yes did so with my cr10s, went from the stock bowden to the aero made by E3D
Pretty much every part can be changed out. The ones that have no electronics are probably easiest. I wouldn't worry about it until you need to, though. You'll have plenty to do just with the stock machine.
What is that gopro mount? I'm looking for something like that
Step motor dampers titeşimi önler erkada fotosu var 6:56
See if this makes sense. The Mosaic Palette 2/Pro deposits color filament inside the object that nobody is going to see. But in order to do that it has to change colors by dumping a whole lot of waste to a secondary brick. So while printing a many color object why not just have the exterior shell of that object where the colors are needed get printed and the filler can be whatever base color you like or it can be the "waste" material used as in-fill.
Mosaic isn't the only method of integrating multiple materials or colors into your objects. There is another that mounts up to 8 spools for integration onto nearly any single or multiple extrusion head 3D printer. It was featured in a video on 3D Printing Nerd's channel from 2019. Sorry I can't think of it more precisely as it is late and I am too tired to dig it up.
When I was installing my PTFE tube it all of a sudden got unstuck and my thumb went up and slammed into the top bar and snapped my nail kn half
hoy crap this video is good, well done
Is it possible to build a 3D printer just from upgrades?
Are the tl smothers universal any brand type etc for the cr10-max
They're just a set of 8 diodes. They work on all printers and cost about 0.8$ a piece on aliexpress.
Man, this guy keeps saying "eck sedra" instead of et cetera.
@Farrel Clement Nobody is perfect
Sorry, haha. Will work on it.
"Ask your doctor is Excedra is right for you."
Also called "hardened steel" Hardened Stone"
and "expecially". Ugh.
I would recommend the EZABL by TH3D studios instead of BLtouch. The EZABL is more accurate, more repeatable and easier to wire up. No hardware modifications required apart from the mount. If you wish, you can power it from the motherboard but that's a hardware modification you'll need to do if you so desire. Firmware change is nonetheless required, but is a bit easier.
I already disagree with number 1... You only should use hardened steel for abrasive filament. I also find Tough Tube to have a better tolerance, and cut better anyway. Also, the blower fan shroud you printed is cracked. Lol. Filament guide squeaks like crazy (I'm about to experiment with gluing a small piece of sponge to mine for greasing/wiping filament)
I am crazy looking for information on which printer to be my first one, for the moment, it is either ender 3, ender 5 or one delta printer either the "ANYCUBIC KOSSEL PLUS DELTA" or the "FLSUN 3D METAL FRAME KOSSEL DELTA"
would anyone be kind enough to post their thoughts on which of these printers would be best to help me make the final decision?
by the way, great videos, keep up the good work
Check out my discord. Link in video description.
I've got an anycubic kossel plus Delta, and a creality cr10. They both work well, though I think the kossel has a more robust extruder setup. It's been printing beautifully right after assembly, while my cr10 has needed some upgrades to print reliably.
I have anycubic mega s and it print well it was my first printer
omg that palette multi color thing is fuckin cool
But prusa multi material is better (at least it has 5 filaments)
Nice array of new, advanced parts. :}
Much needed!
Great video
Seems like this went with the most expensive, not the best upgrades. Especially the last category.
1.Hemera??? What a waste of money, nothing revolutionary, and mounting is a joke. The PrinterMods direct drive upgrade is inexpensive and allows for dozens of hotend/extruder combos along with ready to mount linear bearing guide mounts for less than $40. I highly recommend taking a look at this for yourself.
2. Duet board??? This is another huge waste of money when can go with a SKR board for silent 32 bit 2209 driver replacement at less than $30.
You have fantastic video quality and narration but think this list was hugely bias to E3D products that are all over priced and not as great as described.
Duet is a waste if you upgrading printer like those in video. It is not only about silence. Same about Hemera.
I disagree, the Hemera is an all in one beast in its self. While I agree it's overpriced its because there was a team that designed it for optimal use. Mounting is an issue but can be solved with creativity. The Hemera also allows for a lot of different uses that a $40 system cannot handle. I do completely agree with the SKR instead of a duet board.
Love the video but honestly the BLtouch is over rated, a simple cheap mechanical switch does the job, or another type of sensor even tho they have to be recalibrated if you change your print bed.
Triangle labs cloned parts from aliexpress work very well, and are much cheaper...
Triangle labs is awesome I have their bmg clone works fantastic think I get their clone v6 next
just like the SKR boards are way better than stock but not the stupid price of duets
@@Idlepit2 get the all metal v6 gold
Trianglelabs is still risky you'll get bad parts and have to buy the stuff again. I gave them a try and got there bondtech version and it had terrible clearance issues. You had to really squeeze the idle side to get it to close, the bowden attachment didn't fit without filing and shaving away parts. When I brought all of that up with them they pretty much said too bad, that happens sometimes with cheaper molds, yes they admitted they use the cheap molds if it wasn't already obvious, and I shouldn't bother buying anything else from them if I didn't want to mess with things to get them to work. I got a volcano hotend with the same order and never used it after that interaction with them and gave it away. Remember they're cheaper for a reason, they cut corners using designs other people spent years coming up with to be perfect. Im sure some stuff works fine, but if you get a dudd, don't expect any helpful customer service.
I would much rather buy products and support the companies who actually innovated and created them in the first place. I would rather buy a high quality product that I know will work and last. Also, with the actual companies you have customer service.
No offense but, how on earth is an LED strip a "hard" upgrade. You literally just plug it into a power outlet, whereas a "moderate" upgrade such as the bl touch, involves a complete re-flash of the software.
You're right, but I put it in the 3rd tier because it is a "nice to have" upgrade and doesn't affect print quality.
there are no eggs in etcetera, but egg so on
Pronounced: et cet er a
NOT: ek sed ra
Please. Thank you.😊👍
Bruh i bought an Anet A8 for 130 €
I cant even afford one of the cheapest upgrades :/
2024: Buy a Bambu Lab 😂😂😂
This video really didn't age well. Either that or it wasn't good to begin with.
A steel nozzle is only a good idea if you are using abrasive filaments with stuff embedded in them. Otherwise, they have worse heat transfer which can impact print quality. Do yourself a favor and get a bag of 30 brass nozzles on Temu for $6. If it's worn, clogged, or crashed into the bed, just replace it.
Also, don't bother with capricorn snake oil tubing... just get a bi-metal heat break. Only costs a little more, but it's not a wear item and actually fixes the problem.
I'm not sure if those smoothers actually work, but I wouldn't use them.
The rest isn't bad. Obviously there is new stuff... do klipper firmware with MainSail or Fluidd instead of octoprint so many benefits to klipper. BL touch if you don't have it is great. BTT makes great boards for a decent price. Rails are all the rage now too.
Ek-sedra
ET cetera, not EC cetra
ET CETERA, my brosef ...not egg sedra.
if you are going to say et cetera (ect) so much please learn how to say it correctly.
e3d shill lmao didn't know I watched a sponsored video...
This is not a sponsored video.
excreta not exsaidra ffs
or.. just get a good printer..
Palette 2 doesn't really work, 70%+ failure rate with the product constantly jamming and many design faults that cause constant failures. Customer service from Mosaic is hopeless and the product only prints at 1/3 the advertised print speed