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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.ย. 2024
- In this video we fabricate the control box, and then deep dive into the parameter and set up of the inverter.
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Banggood review items used in this build series:
2.2KW 220V 12A Single Phase Input 3 Phase Output PWM Frequency Converter Drive Inverter V/F Vector Control: bit.ly/38odflC
Dual 12 Position 15A 600V Screw Terminal Strip Covered Barrier Block: bit.ly/2TH0BdE
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Excellway® 22mm NO+NC Momentary Panel Mount DPST Control Push Button Switch AC220V: bit.ly/2RBFW83
N/O N/C Emergency Stop Switch Push Button Mushroom 4 Screw Terminals: bit.ly/2R7NWOW
Dustproof Dust Filter for Computer Fan: bit.ly/2THUoOq
3 Pin 80mm 15mm PC CPU Cooling Fan Heat Sink Cooler Radiator For Computer 12V: bit.ly/2tCUiwX
150Pcs Heat Shrink Wire Wrap Assortment Tubing Electrical Sleeve Diameter 2/2.5/3.5/5/6/8/10/13mm: bit.ly/2RB2Qw3
10pcs 6mm Shaft Hole Dia Plastic Threaded knurled Potentiometer Knobs Caps: bit.ly/2v77cUj
CW4L2-20A-T AC 220V 50/60 HZ Power EMI Filter Monophasic Enhanced: bit.ly/2ucx7tp
RV24YN20S B103 10K Single Ring Carbon Film Potentiometer 2W 20000rpm: bit.ly/2sEJM7O
(Note: if you click on the links and buy anything I get a small %)
Chinese new year event
Chinese New Year Sale: bit.ly/2NCQ9jp
EU Warehouse: bit.ly/2R89gUG
US/AU Warehouse: bit.ly/3arzHMz
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Although they are not listed in all the instruction sheets, there are other parameters you can control. P 78 is maximum working amperage in milliamps. P 79 through p 85 are working amperage for the 6 pre-programmed speed settings, also in milliamps. Useful if like me you are using a oversized vfd on a smaller motor. I am using this same vfd on a 1/2 hp motor rated at 1.9 amps and have dropped p78 from the default of 12000 to 2200. I didn't need to change p79 to p85 as I am not using any preset steps.
On the p50 to p55 multifunction inputs there are other unlisted options. 17 is jog forward, 18 is jog reverse, 19 is emergency stop.
I am sure there are other unlisted options. What does P59, 63, 64, 65, 95-98, 101-104, 108-113, 116-126 control if anything? hopefully someone will figure them out.
Thanks for the explanation on the torque compensation. I will now start experimenting with those settings.
That is useful to know thank you. I will pin it to the top so others who come looking for those specific unlisted settings can find it.
In the instruction manual I got, P78 is the "Main current overload" and P79 to P85 are current overload values for other 7 speeds. I do not see any other parameter with mA values to set the working current. P76 says "Current coefficient" with 0-65535 range with the default value of 9500 but no unit is specified. My VFD is 2.2kW. My motor is 1.5kW and on the motor plate, it says 3.7A and when connected to the motor under no-load motor draws around 3.2A per phase.
Can't wait for part three. I've looked high and low for a video that goes over inverter controls. I'll be honest I've been too scared to turn mine on and now I want to rush down to the workshop and have a play! If I could make a request for something you could discuss it would be wiring up a safe emergency stop. As I understand it the inverter needs to stop in a controlled manner to prevent damage. Just pulling power will, I believe, damage the unit. I sort of understand why, there's lot of energy stored in the motor that's got to go somewhere, but I never understood how to correctly handle the situation. That control box is certainly built to last too, I love it.
On my CNC machine the emergency stop works by switching off the control relay (interrupting the supply to the latching relay). One of the contacts on the latching relay controls the machine run command into one of the digital inputs, so it basically stops the machine that way as if you have just pressed the normal spindle stop button. I will do the same thing on the drill press, but also experiment using the X3 (?) digital port (as this is already configured as an e-stop) for the motor PTC over temperature. I'll show this in a future video including the circuit diagram for the whole control system. Thanks
That cotrol box is truely a work of art!
Thank you. Glad I made the effort to build a bespoke one to match the machine contours.
Funny picture of the inverter control shows func not fung ,I’m enjoying this make it into a mill then I will do mine the same
Cheers from Aus
OK thanks for following along. Good luck with your project.
You are a very good teacher!
Thank you. Hope it helps.
14:49 Such a satisfying fit. Great work
Thanks! I was relieved it worked out !
That running test reminds me inverter we had at high school. We set up slow ramp and let small probably 500W motor spin up to 120 Hz....and then let it slow down to 0 Hz in 0.5 second. I was really surprised it was nicely standing on table and not trying to fly away :D
Wow, that is good going. The I've left the accel and decel rates as the slow defaults for now just for getting it going. When finally installed on the machine I can experiment with something that is quick enough for swapping tools over, but not too much strain on the inverter. I will talk about it in a future video but there is no provision for an external brake resistor on this model (part of the cost down), so all the braking has to be done with the components in the inverter. I'll be amazed if I can get 0.5 sec from 120 Hz, but let's see ! Thanks for following along.
I think if you get it to 1/3 or 1/4 of time it has now, then it might be ideal. But that's just my wild guess and I'm really curious how close I will be :D
About quick swapping, you can get motors with integrated brake. You can control brake externally or just connect it in parallel with motor winding (not sure how well that works with inverters). I'll try to remember and check our bigger drill press at maintenance, motor seems to be quite big (and powerful) and brake stops it immediately when you press button. I'm quite curious about its parameters.
And that inverter we tried at school had no braking resistor, it just worked. But also it was made...I guess around year 2000 or before.
And you're welcome, I like your project. I had idea of putting inverter to old and well used drill press I got two years ago. But honestly, drill press still stands on ground. I have everything prepared to fix it onto table, but I don't need drill press yet and I'm quite lazy :D
Very useful information and good help sheet , I’m going back to reprogram my other vfd that’s been working on standard settings for a year lol
OK good luck with it !
Excellent video! Thank you. Please release your manual with some extra notes in a pdf file!
Hi George. Thank you. At the end of one of the videos in this series I held the sheets of paper up to the screen so you could screen grab them if that helps, thanks.
Keep it up! I’m loving this series!
Thank you John. There are some challenges ahead but that is part of the fun !
Just found you, that's one tasty enclosure. When making clock dials we etch the brass and then melt a hard wax into the etch by warming the face. Followed by very light abrasion/finish. Was wondering whether the same could be used to fill your engraving for better definition instead of painting. Also wondered whether the edge pillars could be 3D printed with a good infill, for contrast and especially for folk who do not have a mill. Any chance you might release drawings/sketches? Even sketches I could turn into dimensioned drawings :-). Me thinks I will be binge watching the remainder of this series over the weekend! And then making a similar enclosure for my own drill press which is a similar size to your Warco.
I don’t mind painting as it gives a long lasting finish but I guess the wax would work too. I don’t have a 3D printer and went for metal parts for strength and durability but I guess plastic pillars would be OK. As for drawings I may or may not still have them as it was a while go and this is a one off. The box was shaped to fit my machine with holes at the back to match existing mounting holes and the front panel suited the controls I wanted to use. So not sure if it is useful to others. I see what I can do in a future video and may be able to print out some new drawings to show. I’m keen to use every spare hour to get this thing finished so I’ll have to let know if I manage to do that and will post in this thread so you get notification. No promises! Thanks for joining us and happy watching.
@@routercnc9517 That’s cool. I’m reading the Gene Kranz memoir but my mind is on 3D so I’ll probably be modelling it tomorrow and firing up the printer.
I've been working on the control box for my drill press the last couple of days and have found that the low speed torque boost doesn't seem to be applied if you use the jog function for the slow speed tapping option. Instead, I've used the speed set 1 & 2 functions and linked them via diodes to the wire forward and wire reverse controls so that I can leave the forward/reverse control in the off position. That way, when I release the tapping push button the drill comes to a halt without momentarily setting the speed to the value set by the potentiometer.
Ok that’s good to know. I will also be using the set speed as my jog so should get the boost if needed. With the brief testing I did and my circuit layout I’m not expecting the momentary pot speed issue you mentioned but will bare it in mind. In the current situation this will progress slower than planned but that’s just how it is. Thanks for following along and giving good feedback.
Hi. Thanks for your very educational videos. Much appreciate it. Now i want to replace the motor in my Jet drill press with a 3 phase motor and add a VFD.
Is it possible to wire the existing NVR switch in the front of the drill press into the VFT. The NVR switch in itself is a relay is nt it. Can you please shed some light how to wire that. Thanks
In theory you could add the NVR to the VFD input but I would be concerned about that. The VFDs don’t like being switched off when the motor is running and you are relying on the NVR solenoid to hold to power the VFD. Much better to use the the VFD digital terminal controls with switch gear to control it for run stop. Have a look at 3 wire control and so on to see if one of the modes of operation of your inverter would do what you want.
Thank you. I get it. I am planning to buy the one which you used in your circuit . If I want to use digital connections side of the VFD, where would I take the 12V power needed for the relay ? Also how to wire an external fan to motor ? In your videos I can’t clearly see where you are taking the 12V power for the fan. Thank you.
I used a separate DIN rail power supply for the relay. For the fan see Ep3 at 16:40 where I think I tested the pins which have 12V when it runs.
This seems really interesting, is there a reason why u picked a overpowered vfd for a weaker motor? Should I do the same? Also is there a easy way(kinda like the vfd) to control a single phase ac motor?
Going a bit over on the VFD is OK. I choose this one as it was cheap and did what I wanted. I have read comments not to go too much higher than the motor in case it limits the range optimisation as you are only using a part of the current range. Someone more qualified than me would need to comment on that.
This will not control a single phase motor. For that you need an SCR speed controller designed for single phase motors. I have only seen ones with a manual speed knob on them rather than external control but there may be other options. Thanks
Great video! I have a problem with is VFD tripping on err6 over current. I have the over current protection set to motor nameplate rating of 3amp. If I measure the amps on one of the motor leads it reads 2.5amps. This seems high for the motor just free wheeling and still doesn't explain why the vfd tripped.
Well err6 is the over current, so you are right there. If you are sure you have wired up the motor correctly for the voltage (either delta or Y, they draw different currents), then you could try increasing the max current setting P076 (if you have this exact VFD) a bit. There might be some small current spikes tripping it out. You can also set P062 to 3 to display Amps on the display so once it is running OK you can see what it is drawing. After that I'm not sure and don't want to damage your motor. If you get really stuck try posting on the mycncuk forum as there some very knowledgeable people on there. Good luck.
thank you for this video, in my case I have a metal lathe, and I don't see where to connect the external brake resistor on variator, (P012 parameter) can you help me?
Not all inverters have braking resistor terminals. If they have them they are usually labelled PR or PA or PB and are located next to the terminals for the power and motor connections.
hi I've tried to program my xsy-at1 i just haven't got a clue what I'm doing i have a 0.37kW, 2800rpm, 230-400V 3Phase, 50Hz, B3 Foot Mounted, GAMAK Electric Motor i need it to run @ about 300 rpm have anybody got the parameter numbers and what i need to change them to thanks
Nice walk through, I almost killed my spindle by incorrectly configuring the VFD frequency. You planning on sharing that color coded spreadsheet ? Might be handy for noobs like me.
Thanks. Yes unfortunately their flexibility means they are not just plug and play. You may be able to take screen grabs of the sheets when I hold them up towards the end of the video? Or I may end up posting them on the mycncuk site. I’ll add a link if I do that, thanks
Ive got mine wired up for a scraper for cows. When the input for run forward goes first time it ramps up fine. But when the changeover relays switch the vfd doesn’t have time it ramp down and start its cycle again because it’s almost instant changeover. Any tips on getting the controller to have a ramp up and vertical drop on its curve? Other more expensive brand we had could do this. An option is that we add a delay timer to the vid timer to ‘suppress’ the aux inputs which tell the vid to run. Thanks for any help.
Hi James. I’m sorry I’m not how to do that. It’s only a basic VFD so might not be possible. Try posting on the mycncuk forum as there are plenty of knowledgeable people on there. Might take a bit of time before Lee (moderator) sorts you out but hopefully you would get an answer on there.
@@routercnc9517 hi. I’ve ordered a time delay relay. Will use aux contacts from the contactors which switch between the two motors as the input. Alternatively I could use one aux contact as FWD and one as REV. Which would save £20. I’ll try that after time delay relay if the changeover is too quick for it. Thanks anyway.
Thanks for the video. Just a shame that the drive can't do digital speed up/down. I've bought one of these drives to replace an Emmerson drive that has failed and I don't have time to repair. It would have been nice to wire the new drive to the old controls but for £50 I'm not complaining!
Yes for the money it is a nice unit. Especially if you only need basic functionality. You could do digital speed control at a few set speeds (like I showed with the jog) but not infinitely variable. There might be some kind of interface board available (?) which might convert a digital pulse train into analog out which would replace the potentiometer. Not sure but might possible. Thanks
@@routercnc9517 The digital speed input on the emmerson drive is via push buttons; it mimicks an electric pot, you hold the switch and the speed increases all the time the switch is held. On release the speed stays where you set it. Speed down works the same way but in a different input. It's handy when you just want to adjust the speed to suit cutting behaviour. The rate of increase and decrease were programmable too. I'm liking your tapping speed set up so will probably go with that and a ten turn pot for the speed adjust. Time to make a new control box.
Ok I misunderstood. Sounds like you have a way forward anyway. Good luck with it !
My vfd manual does not even list P25 parameter but the vfd has that program and it was set at 0, even though this video says I should have it set at 1 for a 4 pole motor. I can't tell a difference in the change. What's going on?
It is not unusual for manufacturers to make changes to the way these are set up. Possibly if they don't list P25 they are determining the number of poles a different way such as incorporating the number of poles into another parameter. I have seen the pulley ratio factor be entered in different ways for example. If changing it made no difference then I guess they are doing something else. I'm really sorry but I don't know other than to contact whoever you bought it from. If you have a tacho to measure the speed of the motor and the motor runs smoothly then I think you should be able to see if the frequency on the display makes sense against the rotation speed, and therefore if the number of poles is correct. Worth asking around on a forum for this last part. mycncuk.com for example is full of knowledgeable people. Good luck with it.
Very helpful, thorough video, thank you! Some basic questions (new to this so please pardon if they're silly).
How did you know you were able to safely set the Max frequency (P06) up to 120 Hz? I'm running this same VFD to convert from single phase 240V to a 1 HP (220V 3 phase) Bridgeport step pulley (original US motor), with a nameplate value of 50Hz/60Hz depending upon the region. Currently the default max frequency (P06 on the VFD) is set to 65 Hz and it works fine. How did you know what a safe, max allowable frequency was for yours (120 Hz in your case)?
Also, last silly question for this VFD - how do you turn it off? I can't seem to turn it off when powered (plugged in). I have to unplug it (stays lit) and then hold the "stop" button to get it to power off. Holding the "stop" button does not shut it off, when plugged in. Is this to be expected?
Thank you again, fantastic video!
For the maximum frequency I read around for what other people had used and went for 120Hz. Later I emailed the supplier for the motor to get their view and they recommended a slightly lower value so I went with that.
I don’t think you can turn these off once plugged in. When unplugged they will stay powered for several seconds until the capacitors discharge but all the ones I have owned then switch off.
I have the same VFD on my mill and lathe. I can get it to work on the mill, but my lathe just clicks.. any ideas what parameter I need to dial in?
You need to read the motor plate specifications and set the parameters to match. These inverters are not plug and play to any motor and always need to be configured.
Somewhere in this video series I showed my parameter sheets I created in Excel and highlighted the key ones to get the motor running.
@@routercnc9517 thanks for the reply! The lathe’s previous owner had some convoluted Mickey Mouse wiring, kinda surprised he didn’t kill himself on it. I wound up getting it going, I just need to tune the torque comp and braking to have it run how I prefer it.
I have no clue how to change parameters. I can get to them, but no button seems to change the values.
I showed a flow chart at 18:11 for the button presses needed to change the values on this unit. Press "Prog" then "up" or "down" arrow to select the parameter you want to change, then "func" to go into that parameter value, then "up" or "down" arrow to change the value. Then "func" to come out of that parameter value setting, then "prog" to store the new value and exit the setting mode. If that is not working then contact your supplier. The front control panel is removable so maybe they would try sending you a new one? If that does not work then sorry I don't know. Good luck with it.
Surely flipping the square slot guide on the end of the bar would cut the other set rather than making 2, A nice control box though.
You might be right but it was about 6 months ago so I can’t quite remember the details! Must have been a reason . . .
Hi
Really useful and clear - thank you. One thing I have been battling with an unable to solve is the settings and wiring for 3-wire control of a NO start button and a NC stop button. I set the start on X1 as 11 (keyed forward, momentary). This works. But when I attach common to X5 via the stop (NC; momentary), and set X5 to 19 (emergency stop), the start no longer functions - I assume because two contradictory inputs are arriving. Am I missing soimething obvious (to you - I'm vey inexperienced in this!)?
I have never used the 3 way control like that as I prefer independent control over start stop and emergency. I use the momentary switches to control a relay configured to be a latching relay. One of the terminals of the relay dictates the connection to DCM of whatever function is being asked for. Commercial machines would even use a purpose made relay such as a Piltz unit. If you look at the circuit diagram I show in episode 3 it might give you an idea about how to do this. Without playing with a setup I’m not sure if momentary switches can be used as you outline. A 2 position latching rotary switch would work but you would need a way to invoke estop, perhaps by connecting it in series with the connection to DCM.
Not saying it can’t be done, just never used it like that on any machine I’ve built. Thanks
another thought. Try setting X5 to 4 (stop keying) or 2 (keying stop momentary). Estop probably is overriding everything.
I just purchased a Belt grinder with an VFD like this. was grinding, had a fault, reset. then it stopped again and displayed 19103, and control panel doesn't do anything. reset power to the unit, displays 19103 still, and controller still dead. Any help?
Sorry I don't know what that code is. Maybe some grinding grit got inside the unit? Maybe take it apart and look for anything that might have burnt and also give it a blast with an airgun if you have one in case something has shorted across the tracks. Other than that maybe time for a replacement.
@@routercnc9517 Have any idea on how I would go about "resetting" the unit?
Thank you so much for this info. I am having trouble understanding how I can make my single pole, single throw switches work. The on/off works fine, but the reverse will start the motor up even with the on toggle in the off position. Is there a way I can make these switches work for this?
If I understand what you are trying to do then I'm not sure you can do that with just SPST switches in that way. I think you could have one switch between FWD (X4) and DCM to make it go forward and one switch between REV (X5) and DCM to make it go in reverse. But having a master on/off on one simple switch, and the other switch determining if it runs forward or reverse I think would need more components. Probably could do it with a relay so the fwd/rev SPST switch would energise or de-energise a relay (powered from somewhere) and one pair of contacts on the relay would link X4 to DCM and the other pair of contacts would link X5 to DCM. The second switch is then connected between this output of the relay and DCM so it only runs (on/off) when the second switch is thrown, and the first switch has determined if X4 or X5 is connected to DCM via the relay. However this would be easier with a 3 way rotary switch to connect X4 or X5 to DCM, with the second SPST switch again making or breaking the final connection to DCM.
@@routercnc9517 thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. I will go now and try to understand all you've said. Cheers.
@@routercnc9517 It is possible afterall! I hooked up my toggle switch to X6 port and now it operates just like the fwd/Rev button on the keypad. Trying to understand the instructions was the difficult part. Thanks again.
@@user-wo7rz3yn4o Well done, that makes sense. I didn't play around or look into the X6 input but the manual says it is defaulted to 9 which means 'wire reversing switch'. So connecting this input to DCM or not gives fwd or rev. Good find and hopefully this will help someone else who wants to do forward and reverse with a simple on/off switch.
I got the same exact VFD and going to power my lathe motor with it. It does not support external load resistor, but the braking option is working, I'm not sure how that works. Is there anything I should be aware of or be careful if I'm going to use the braking?
There is a limit to how fast the internal components can brake the motor. If you set it too fast it will most likely trip out with an error. I bought an external braking resistor for my CNC machine years ago but never used it. I think it is really for a production environment with big tools where time is money.
Nice box..
Thankyou. I may polish and clearcoat the front panel, not decided yet.
@@routercnc9517 That is a good solution
Thanks for posting these videos. I just got a 1.5kw version of this vfd (XST-AT1), so all of the parameter options are the same, it just has a slightly different case.
I'm using it to power a wood lathe. After connecting things, I tried it out at very low speeds and it worked well, would reverse the motor, run/stop, etc. However, as soon as i turn the frequency knob to around 15, it trips my breaker. The motor is still moving relatively slowly at this point, I don't get any error codes on the VFD, and nothing is getting warm or showing signs of excessively high amperage draw. Any ideas on what could be causing this?
Not sure on that one. You could try adding a line filter to the mains input. Or of you don’t have one to hand try running it through a cable reel extension (temporarily). Also check the earth connections. After that I don’t know.
@@routercnc9517 Thanks for the response. I'll read up a bit about the mains line filter and give that a try. I sure have a knack for running into tricky and annoying electrical problems lately, ha!
No guarantees but this sort of thing is not too expensive and worth a try. Google "CW4L2-20A-S EMI Filter Line".
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Next up would be some ferrite rings on the cables going out to the 3 phase motor. Place them near the inverter side. Search 'Clough42' channel on TH-cam as he showed the spec/sizes that might be required. Physically they were around 50 mm diameter if that helps. I haven't needed them on anything I have ever built so can't advise on spec.
Also, is there another socket in the workshop you can try, something much further away from the breakers ? Longer cable starts to drop the voltage spikes (a bit).
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Finally if you set parameter P062 to 3 to display Amps on the display it may tell you more information. Max current setting is in P076 (in mA), but if this trips you get an 'err6', so probably not overcurrent in the inverter.
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Also, double check the parameters to make sure they match the motor (poles, frequency etc.), and make sure the acceleration parameter rate is not too high.
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If you get stuck try posting on the mycncuk forum as there as some very knowledgeable people on there.
@@routercnc9517 Thanks again! As I was looking into the EMI filter you mentioned, I read a about how EMF can be created in the ground line due to EMI and that has the potential to trip GFI circuits. The socket I'm using is actually connected to a 50 amp spa box breaker with integrated GFI ( I used to use that outlet for an electric beer brewing setup, so I needed a GFI for safety). It makes sense on the face of it that as I increase the frequency on the inverter, the magnitude of the EMF would increase to the point of tripping the breaker, and would probably happen at a predictable frequency like I'm seeing. I might try taking the spa box out of the circuit, going directly to the breaker on my panel to see if that cures the issue. If not, I'll give that line filter and ferrite ring setup a try. Really appreciate the help and here's hoping!
Getting rid of the GFCI ended up doing the trick. Thanks again for the help. I definitely wouldn't have known to consider EMI as an issue without your assistance.