I was a news photographer for 24 years and do TV and film production now. Manual focus is the way to go. Auto-focus (or Out-of-Focus as I call it) is easily fooled by bright objects or other features for whatever reason. Same goes for exposure. That said, what matters in what you're doing is what you're doing. Thanks for sharing!
End mills only really cut in one direction, into the rotation of the cutting surface. Going with the rotation is referred to as a climbing cut and should be avoided if possible. I really want to build my own version of this project. So many of my questions were answered in these two videos.
So correct. Even using a wood router, you cut into the wood and not with the wood. Climb cuts will always be a problem with most any cutting power tool.
@@brandonsmoot4056 climb milling has its advantages, especially with a newer machine that has incorporated backlash elimination into it. I grew up in a family owned tool and die business that had manual machines, many of which had brass war department plaques riveted to them.
I have a couple of OLD Craftsman drill presses that look identical. I have toyed with the idea of turning the benchtop into a mill. Thanks for the ideas.
I'd imagine the chatter on the Y axis is caused by a larger tolerance for the feed handle. Maybe by fixing the quill completely and using the table feed to raise and lower the job you'll create some more rigidity. You can replace bearings until the cows come home, but that's not where the movement is coming into it
Great stuff. I have a Walker Turner drill press just like this, a rarity in the UK, so its great to learn about its inner workings. I will keep it as a drill through.
I had a Trunion I needed to open up to fit a barrel into and from decades past I had a brake wheel cylinder hone that was small enough to go in and slowly polish the interior large enough to fit!
I'm sure this has been said...The standard bearings are for axial loads (they carry the spindle) not compressional loads which you require..The standard ones will work, but with a very shortened life as they only hold the spindle in a central axis.The angular ones are designed for that kind of load. The chatter will be coming from the x ,y table the quill and the screw jack. Locking off unused axis on x, y table will reduce some chatter, putting the quill as far to the top stop and locking it off will reduce the chatter. I have a MK2 Beaver mill very similar to a Bridgeport and i get chatter if i dont lock off axis I'm not using on big parts, She is old and ways are worn... Great vids, very informative and answers some of my curiosities.. Sorry if i am just repeating everyone, but i am lazy and can't be bothered to read them all..Thanks
That spacer you found is the "secret sauce" in this project. It is absolutely required for a long life, chatter free spindle. Bearing type is not important.
Just throwing this out there, had you considered bushings instead of bearings? Oilite bronze wouldn't work, but there are polymers that should, PEEK (polyetheretherketone) for instance. Since you have a lathe, it would have been fairly easy to machine them. I don't know about the finish in your drill press head, but if it were smooth enough, you might even be able to give the shaft a lot more support by machining the the bushing like a flange bushing. The flange portion would have the thickness of the old bearing and the rest could be as long as you wanted. Lots of area to take up compression loads and no pre-load problems at all.
Did a similar project years ago. Made a complete new spindle with a MT 2 nose and drawbar. Used taper roller bearings. Made a new column with some triple wall pipe. Lots of work for mediocre results. Like someone said, it's educational.
Great video on this, thanks for providing the original bearing specs, I do have one, the bearings are a little noisy but drills holes good enough for now. The WT line of tools changed hands bought by Delta and phased out. The odd bearings are used in their other machines also. Thanks.
Some of that chatter could be from the play in the quill gears because I know on my drill press there was a lot of play in the gears like back lash where you can grab the chuck and move it up and down and it's gear slop and on certain cuts with a end mill it'll leave chatter marks....and end mills only really cut in 1 direction with the work going into the direction of rotation....just like running a grinder or cutoff wheel
Love your videos and your by far one of the best at being informative so those of us who know less than we should can copy you and act like we know more than we do😂 just being honest. You've really helped me out a lot when I've lost my patience with the same projects
That's good to hear. I did eventually get there with mine and I use it more than I ever thought I would. TH-cam comments on the Mill video have been pretty harsh so it's good to get some positive comments. Appreciate it.
My guess is that the cast iron bore and or the spindle shaft is oval which results in the chatter. Can put it on centers and measure the spindle. If the spindle is round then can blue the spindle and see what is rubbed off. Ways sometimes are fixed by filler plastic. Oil the spindle and apply the plastic to the bore and even put a little force to increase the gap. Slide in place and then tighten toet reduce the gap and push out excess plastic and also remove from slit in the bore. Angular contact bearing are designed to carry higher loads the roller bearing, however the drill press bearing is designed for high axial force. Stiffness should match the bearing of the casting and tube tube between the drill press and it's table. Not surprised you didn't get much of a gain.
you can still use the die method, just need an adjustable die, one with a slit in it, allows for a tighter or looser fit, also can adjust for a deeper cut.
There are so many possible areas that can induce chatter - without addressing ALL of them , fairly poor results is the norm ! Those X-Y tables tend to have a great deal of slop . . . I have the same one , & have spent nearly 30 hours on scraping & lapping it into a reasonably accurate piece . The lead screws are a poor fit at best - I'm replacing mine with 1/2 - 10 Acme screws, along with much better fitting 'homemade' nuts , that include delrin anti - backlash capability. With a bit of tinkering , my table will now travel 6" x 10" ! Drill press headstocks can be significantly improved by adding 'take up' screws that press onto the the quill from the outside of the housing , * one on the front , & one on the side , which excludes any quill movement . A quill LOCK is absolutely essential , to prevent any up & down motion ! Much like a bridgeport mill , a fine feed mechanism is very handy - *especially if it is made to preclude any SLOP ! When you consider the amount of backlash / freeplay of the average drill press' quill to downfeed gear , this becomes a necessary area to consider ! Good luck with your adventures ;)
Look on E-Bay for a book on your drill press. It will show all the parts. I just got an older Craftsman drill press and got the manual from E-Bay. It shows an exploded view of drill press. Just what you need.
Robert, did you check the run out on the shaft with an indicator? that would have given you some kind of indication wether the bearings were good or needed replacing and oerhaps saved some time and money?
One issue you can't really get around is the length below the lower bearing. That's probably affecting your rigidity a great deal. There's no real way around it though. Some drill presses, such as many of the Chinese presses that size, use a Morse taper arbor. That would allow the use of a Morse taper to er32 adapter and keep your tool much closer too the lower bearing. One though is, perhaps you can find a spindle that takes a Morse taper arbor that can be adapted to work in your drill press.
I have the same drill press and your chatter is more likely due to the small diameter of the spindle and the amount of extension beyond the bearings. Cool idea though.
You are very right about each Machine being different even if they are the same exact model. The Chatter You are getting is because the Spindle Speed is to fast. For the rough cuts slow down the Spindle Speed and increase the feed rate and/or depth of cut. Use the faster Spindle Speed with a slower Feed Rate and very light Depth (.005 inches to .015 inches) when doing the finish pass.
I thought that it turned out quite well especially considering his modest $$ investment. He proved it on steel and it would probably do a decent job on aluminum. We all throw our time at these projects and that time that we spend on a healthy project I consider to be an "education" whether it's a success or a fail. You used to be able to get an old Bridgeport for $1500-$2000. Them days are gone. Now $2000 is a steal and $3000 and up is the norm. A new "China" knee mill is $2500 plus tax and the wait is 5 to 17 weeks for delivery after payment. Happy home milling!
I'm pretty sure that your camera is not making that noise. It is related to spinning so it for sure comes from your drill but if you cant hear it might be the compressor of the camera mic that pics the high noise when the sound pressure goes up.
You called it!. The tripod was up against the table and picked up the vibrations from the press. I figured it out later but didn’t have any good footage to replace it so I used it. I keep a better eye on the tripod.
* Another hot tip : use a 2 flute HSS endmill when cutting ALUMINUM - you'll likely get a better finish . . . ( a shot of WD-40 , or similar light oil / kerosene will also help ! ) Chattering is 100% due to lack of rigidity ! ! !
I wonder if you could use a narrow needle pin roller bearings and increase the size of the spindle that would give you the possibility to use a drawbar with R8 collet’s
I trust you have checked and eliminated any backlash in your cross feed table Perhaps fit a finger gauge on drill press pipe and let finger gauge just touch the vice x axis then mill and again on y axise to establish if you have backlash
I got really excited when I heard it’s a walker turner. I have an old walker turner drill press that Needs some TLC. My first “mill” was a DP220 that with an XY table. Videos look great too! Just wanted to mention that your video quality has gotten really good!
Hello there.. This is what I like - home diy problem solving the best way you can. Of course many things might go wrong when adapting something meant for one thing to do another thing, but sometimes it's the only way to reach a solution. Here you have some basic problems: 1. the machine is not meant for side forces, therefore it has lower rigidity 2. bearings are just a part of the equation 3. the shaft is thin and subject to chatter 4. 'n most probably the most important is the length from the lower bearing to the tip of the cutter. If you want to make it more stable, shorten the collet system, which is the hardest because of repurposing. Also the direction of travel is better against the turning, as the machine is not rigid, traveling along it makes more chatter as it tries to pull also the table, which amplifies the oscillation. Don't worry, you did a nice job, it's just the nature of the thing.. I don't recommend you to use it for much steel milling or it will last very little. Aluminum, plastics and brass should be manageable for some smaller projects. Anyway, I hope to see more about it.. 😉
I would suggest using a High speed steel end mill, aluminum is soft and has a low melting point, Carbide does not work will on aluminum, also some cutting oil or a water base coolant, otherwise the aluminum will build up on the cutter, remember carbide is hard and does not like give, it will chip or break! Also "Leslie Gray" is right Climb milling is not recommended, one it can grab the part and pull it, and it cause chatter, also if you have any play in your ball screw or thrust bearings you will all ready know what I am talking about!
Thank you, Richard. I had the carbide in there for machining that hardened shaft from the surface grinder, and in didn’t want to swap it. I think I need to buy a set of 1/4 or 1/2 HSS end mills.
But, of course, the bearing manufacturer and the grease additives you pack the bearings with are the most important thing, just like exotic capacitors are the most important thing in speakers, and vintage camera lens coatings are the most important thing in photography!
Just came across your channel. I subscribed. I think it looks like fun, keep the content comin and never mind the arm chair geniuses. Just have fun and we’ll all learn together. Thanks
When you said lathe I didn’t rewlaize ya meant tiny toy this makes sense now . People save your money and look at auctions and buy real machines and u would be surprised what great deals u csn get at auctions
I did a lot of stuff with that lathe. Many bike parts and modifications before replacing it with a larger lathe. I cut my teeth on it and have no regrets about it. When you don't live in a city with a large industrial history (like Pitsburgh or Detroit) finding larger machines can be tough and when they do pop up, they are expensive. Some people don't have the space for a larger lathe, nor the money, and most don't even need to capabilities of a larger lathe. You should be a bit more open in your thinking about what tools people can afford and if they meet their needs. I could drive an F350 pickup, but I don't need one. So I have an old Dodge Dakota. It's kind of the same thing.
You do know, you can repack old bearing with a good hi-temp grease (Farmers Stores ie: Co-Op, TSC are the cheapest place to by grease) if there are dust caps, I use a carburetor pic to carefully pop the caps out, clean the bearing of any debre and repack install dust covers and presto you've lost your play in shafts, of course you are better to get new ones, but regular maintenance keeps e enough old bearings new again. Best of Luck, thanks for sharing I just subbed your videos interested to see new ones. Cheers from Barrie Ontario Canada L4M2Z8
The fit of the quill in its housing is just as important; that the bearings didn't make a big difference suggests looking there for any rigidity gains.
I think you’d be better off adding an exo skeleton style extra quill housing to add rigidity. It’s built to do vertical drilling so I think adding that extra meat would help a ton
I saw someone make a three-column support for a similar drill press and they said it had a big impact. That's a good idea. It'll be a nice winter project once this NSU restoration is done.
Does the Quill lock? Is it a good fit in the drill head, if not, you could try electroplating it until it is a precice sliding push fit, lap it in even. Hope this is of help.
How is the quill bushed in the body of the drill press? Seems like theres a ton of Stick out with that set up? that Chinese X/Y table could be tuned up and tightened up (Scraped, hand or power) I'm 54 years old, I told myself my entire life the Same things you were saying, Bridgeports cost too much, Are too heavy to move, Where will I get 3 Phase? ETC - Bought My Bridgeport in 2018, just over 4 years ago, and while I got it rough and rusty and semi-worn, theres still a TON a life left in it, I paid $1k for it, moved it with a Buddy and a Bobcat with forks and a rented Home Depot trailer, once home with a Cheapo Harbor Freight folding engine hoist and also rolled it like the Egyptians on steel galvanized 1" water pipe, and Had it running perfectly on 20A of 220v Single phase with a $115 eBay Static Phase converter- Dont kid yourself, even a worn out tired 1967 Bridgeport J-Head is better than anything you can cobble together, and Parts for Bridgeports are DIRT CHEAP, You can rebuild the entire spindle with all bearings, seals, shims, sleeves, etc for like $350 - They made the EXACT same J-head from 1938 to 2012 with no changes, so parts avail is easy and plentiful - I shoulda bought one in my 20's back in the late 80's early 90's when they were newer and not so worn, I think now with so much industry going CNC and also overseas, old 1960's, 70's & 80's Bridgeports are getting cheaper and cheaper - I'm near the Tampa FL area FAR from the rust belt of the mid west where everything was manufactured, theres places in Illinois, Ohio, Kansas City, Etc with Real, USA Heavy machinery for PENNIES on the dollar compared to what I can find here -
Thank you! I have been watching for a Bridgeport J-head for the past year, maybe. I'm in Denver and we never had big industrial manufacturing here so they don't pop up used which makes this one tough. There was one that finally popped up locally a few weeks ago on eBay but it went for $3800. I found a guy who could transport it and offload it but he wanted $1200 to do so. It just got too expensive. I've been watching eBay and looking at some out on the west coast. I just need to find one in my price range that someone is willing to freight to my shop and unload. Time and patience, I suppose.
@@RobertAdairWorkshop Theres a 200 pound part I need for my Lathe in New Jersey right now, I'll be getting bids on Uship because NJ trip from FL is a bit too much- LOL
I think the biggest contributor to the chatter you're getting is due to the amount of spindle sticking our below the bearing, if you could reduce the length somehow and get the tooling closer to the lower bearing you'd have a much more rigid machine.
Check the difference between climb and conventional milling, the direction in which your tool path travels really really matters. you can't just zig zag and hope for the best
also look at your compound table to see if there is any chatter but I bet that it's the actual length between the stock of the machine and the very end of the chuck being long, add a mill bit in your chuck and it's even longer, doesn't help that you're not using a stubby bit either.
The angular contact bearings are directional and must be placed in the spindle correctly in order to work right under preload. I only mention this because you didn't in the vid. I have to applaud your effort here, but in the end I think you'd been better off saving and spending the money towards a larger machine. I was in the same position you're in, for years .. and I kept looking and was able to score a Lagun mill that already had nsk ballscrews for under 1000$ .More metal and bigger spindle sizes make a large difference. With the drill press you are limited by the small diameter of the spindle and the distance from your last bearing to the cutter which will cause lots of flex and chatter. If you can shorten that distance it will likely help. I would try to get more rpm out of it as well, which can help with finish. Carbide likes a certain speed and feed rate that is higher than hss cutters. Overall, nice job for working with what you got , been there before and sometimes its just plain frustrating.👍
All the more expensive lathes use roller bearings,, timken bearings are angler are in my atlas lathes but my Logan has roller bearings and you can even see the difference in peaces you turn and will get less chattering
Enjoyed your video. Like very much that the problems were explained. Your experience re-enforce 3 major things for this viewer: 1, spindle and quill heft of a drill press are no substitute for a mills; 2, frame column and head stock mass of a drill press are no match to a mill's; 3, and I can save a bunch of money by just buying a mill. Oh there is a 4th thing too. I would miss a lot of fun if I don't convert a drill into a light weight mill. Thanks for the entertainment.
Hi, William. I really don't know. I've never used one of those budget mini-mills. I'll admit, I wanted one. Pretty badly, actually. But the best I could do was the Harbor Freight version which was going to cost more than $1000 with delivery charges and taxes. I assume they are made similarly to the mini lathes, same fit and finish. I spent a lot of time and money getting my mini lathe up to speed and making it a usable tool and I thought that might add another few hundred dollars to the cost of the mini mill. But something I haven't admitted to the community yet: I have the parts for my own mill build sitting in the garage waiting to be built. BT30 spindle. Epoxy granite column and base. That sort of thing. The drill press mill is a stepping stone between no mill and that new mill I'm building. I need a general mill to make some of those parts. Despite the ending of the video and some of the comments here, I really like the drill press mill. It's met my needs fully.
Thank you for the response Bob. I have a Delta DP200 drill press that is (I believe) the same make as the one you converted here. Been considering the same conversion. Good content by the way. Give my channel a watch as well. Thanks again and good luck.
@@RobertAdairWorkshop I'm in similar situation. I'm on SSI. No excuses! Keep up the good work, and like a cool, wise person said above, I echo .... f*** the armchair experts, they are tools of fools. Keep the passion burning, take breaks when needed, then jump back in. You already know. You got this!!
They are an odd mix of metric and imperial. As I recall, and my memory isn't the best, it's 5/8" on the ID, metric on the OD. I will take a look at M-grade bearings. Thank you.
So, did you go back and cut that T-nut for the Atlas lathe? I'd like to see how it does on steel. And were the old bearings roller bearings, or ball bearings?
I feel the length of that collet is too long thus making it weak it needs to be shorter for more rigidity. It like trying to mill with your spindle extedended downward vs lifting your work piece towards the spindle. Just something to maybe improve.
@@RobertAdairWorkshop oh I missed the spline part. But maybe there's a way to weld the spline section on or cut it....gotta admit, cutting splines is a little beyond my capabilities atm...just throwing out some ideas...but nicely done and thanks for experimenting with ideas a lot of us without thousands of dollars to spend on machinery might have...another idea is maybe a sprocket/gear or pully could be welded directly to the top end of a 17mm shaft? Just seems any way to incorporate the thickest shaft possible would help.. Cheers
Pack the diameter with a bed of Bronze apply with a TIG , and machine it , it is more efficient and easier. but I dough any of this was necessary, as a spacer or trust bearing could have been simpler to implement.
The focus problem is that the camera is in auto-focus. If you can, put it in manual and set it before you start recording and the focus issues will disappear.
So did you try placing the shaft in the freezer and right before pressing it heat the outer sleeve which would give you a pressure fit for the contact bearing making it more stable.
The drill press spindle and the entire structure is designed for axial loads and is not rigid enough to support radial loads of any consequence. Good try.
Yes I am interested in this research. I have long given it much consideration. So in return I'll tell you if you beef up the quill with a tight fitting spacer or machine a heavy one from scratch with the most rigid steel type you can use, the vibration will be reduced. Also a mill has very heavy columns and casings that restrict the flex between the work and the cutter. Your spindle is smaller than some drawbars. Your rack is about the size of some spindles on milling machines. The trade off can be improved by tighter gibs and better fit for traversing the workpiece. For what you're working with, your work is typical. Should you machine steel, the higher pressure required will make the job less effective or at the least introduce further vibration and flex.
could you provide some help on your last sentence regarding steel??!! I am looking to do some very complicated, good quality work. I have LOTS of time, skill, patience. I have NO money at all. So with that, any info you can provide me with, and/or books, vids, articles ( even in other languages if applicable ) I would be extremely thankful. I am looking to do very light milling cuts, even a few thou at a time, like my silly adj. reamers. But right now, that's all I got, and my reasoning is: I would rather build a tool with what I have now, then with that build another one a little better, lather, rinse, repeat, ....than to wait for someone to hand me a deal, or save up money for a grizzley. I will not be able to do those things. But working 18 hours a day, with my skills time patience, I can do. Please know who I am and who I'm not Jack. I got heart, brains, balls. Just no $$. Thanks, I look forward to hearing something from you, because I loved the your comment. It is right up my alley. --Joe
When you you say roller bearings, do you mean tapered roller bearings? Also you don't mention orientation of the angular contact bearing changes depending on preloading inner or outer race for the top bearing. Love your video, detest the insertion of any music.
You keep saying roller bearings when you should be saying ball bearings for the OEM bearings or angular contact bearings for the ones you purchased when you are discussing those. Roller bearings can be cylindrical in shape or a tapered cylinder (cone), as in Timken Tapered Roller Bearings. Look up conventional milling vs climb milling as you were describing those operations around 13:45. The key for milling is machine rigidity. There is another YT video where he was able to tie the drill head to a fixed object and used concrete for the base. Also locking the head with the table supporting the X-Y vise or base with bars or reinforcements will help. As others have said in the comments, use high speed steel tooling for aluminum and keep the quill as far up inside the drill press head.
every milling maschine preferes to cut against the the rotation direction of the Bit... just go on circular motion when planing a surface and maybe take passes only milling in one direction and go back-move sideways and go again.
I don't recall. Did I provide the measurements in mm? I'm an engineer. We use metric measurements so it's my default. If I did, the conversion is 25.4mm to 1".
You should have chucked the sleeve in your oven for an hour on max and put the spindle in the freezer then pull them out and the would you just fallen together
now I see where the term "retard" was born. And you even help bring forth its example and usage in everyday ordinary life. Like Solomon said, a wise man can learn from even you Sean. So true indeed!!
sometimes I wonder what your time is worth to build this...I would have just gone out and bought a mini mill for the amount of time and money you spent. Mini mills aren't expensive, run on plug power and take up less space than that Frankenstein death trap. I watch this and it's like using a socket wrench as a hammer. Yes it will work but at what cost and quality
I did it for fun, to see if I could. And I wanted to make a video on it that was better than what was on TH-cam. This is my most popular video so there's an appetite for this type of content. Getting a video that people actually watch is tough, as is coming up with ideas for projects that I also find enjoyable. Most of the parts I used (the work table, the linear screw jack and the motor) were for another project I was working on and borrowed. I used it as a mill for a while with good results until I could find a better mill locally. I didn't want one of those cheap Chinese mills. I had a cheap Chinese mini lathe and I spent twice what I paid for it, getting it to actually work right. And it was still always broken. Those mills are the same low quality. More to that point, though, I firmly believe in buying USA whenever possible and hate sending money to China. Those little mills would just send more US dollars overseas. I find it odd that much of my audience, Men in the baby boomer generation, recommend buying Chinese products over making something in the USA.. But I digress. I've since bought and use a round column mill and the Walker Turner is back to being a drill press. Nothing in my workshop is ever permanant. th-cam.com/video/kd4fgYpNiSQ/w-d-xo.html
@@RobertAdairWorkshop Sadly people with less sense will follow videos like this and build something that will seriously harm them. Remember most machines we use want to kill us. Add machines cobbled together and that just pushes the probablility it will happen. Honestly some mini mills are quite good with great service. Precision Matthews comes to mind. Yes we can go down the rabbit hole on Chinese. Look at all the things that are made there mills are the least of my worries. If you live without Chinese products you are a better man than me. I rather support USA but sadly the consumer industrial complex rather build wealth than support Americans very little is made here now.
WHY DONT YOU JUST USE SOME THIN BRASS SHIM STOCK, AND SOLDER IT ONTO THE SHAFT, (IF NECESSARY),... ...THEN DRIVE THE NEW BALL BEARINGS ONTO THOSE, AND YOU'D BE DONE.
You have a lathe, why didn't you just cut the threads into it and make a nut with it? You didn't have to buy a tap and die. Also, there are a few videos here which show how to add a draw bar'ish adapter to a drill press head, to hold the chuck in place.
I tried with the lathe but the Mini Lathe is so poorly gears, it moved too fast for me to make the threads. I ruined two parts on the lathe before switching to a tap. I think my Atlas lathe would be a better tool for it but it wasn't, well, in existence when I made the mill.
@@RobertAdairWorkshop treadmill PMDC motor. Find a throwaway treadmill, grab a toolbag, and some time, strip out the motor, AND the speed controller. Its a little boxy thing you can't miss. That's how I power my homemade 1920s metal lathe. VARIABLE SPEED. You can even connect a tachometer to the speed controller PCB. On mine it is blue wire. Keep going bro.
it likes conventional milling. not uncommon with a very loose "milll". your pulling the backlash out when you climb mill and that will make an ugly finnish. if there is no visual difference than go with the bearings that are meant for radial loads.
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I was a news photographer for 24 years and do TV and film production now. Manual focus is the way to go. Auto-focus (or Out-of-Focus as I call it) is easily fooled by bright objects or other features for whatever reason. Same goes for exposure. That said, what matters in what you're doing is what you're doing. Thanks for sharing!
End mills only really cut in one direction, into the rotation of the cutting surface. Going with the rotation is referred to as a climbing cut and should be avoided if possible. I really want to build my own version of this project. So many of my questions were answered in these two videos.
So correct. Even using a wood router, you cut into the wood and not with the wood. Climb cuts will always be a problem with most any cutting power tool.
Climb cutting is the preferred method of cutting in CNC mills and even has a place in manual mills for helping reduce backlash in the drive screws.
@@brandonsmoot4056 I’m strictly old school analog, I don’t have any experience with cnc machines and never will.
@@WrenintheRoses well in sure the backlash argument is something you've heard when talking bridgeports
@@brandonsmoot4056 climb milling has its advantages, especially with a newer machine that has incorporated backlash elimination into it. I grew up in a family owned tool and die business that had manual machines, many of which had brass war department plaques riveted to them.
I have a couple of OLD Craftsman drill presses that look identical.
I have toyed with the idea of turning the benchtop into a mill.
Thanks for the ideas.
I'd imagine the chatter on the Y axis is caused by a larger tolerance for the feed handle. Maybe by fixing the quill completely and using the table feed to raise and lower the job you'll create some more rigidity. You can replace bearings until the cows come home, but that's not where the movement is coming into it
Great explanations and transparency. I really appreciate the time you took to recap what you have learned.
Thank you, Kerry Baxley.
Great stuff. I have a Walker Turner drill press just like this, a rarity in the UK, so its great to learn about its inner workings. I will keep it as a drill through.
I had a Trunion I needed to open up to fit a barrel into and from decades past I had a brake wheel cylinder hone that was small enough to go in and slowly polish the interior large enough to fit!
nice!!
I'm sure this has been said...The standard bearings are for axial loads (they carry the spindle) not compressional loads which you require..The standard ones will work, but with a very shortened life as they only hold the spindle in a central axis.The angular ones are designed for that kind of load.
The chatter will be coming from the x ,y table the quill and the screw jack. Locking off unused axis on x, y table will reduce some chatter, putting the quill as far to the top stop and locking it off will reduce the chatter.
I have a MK2 Beaver mill very similar to a Bridgeport and i get chatter if i dont lock off axis I'm not using on big parts, She is old and ways are worn...
Great vids, very informative and answers some of my curiosities.. Sorry if i am just repeating everyone, but i am lazy and can't be bothered to read them all..Thanks
you lazy?? Your comment does not remind me of a lazy man! I would think just the opposite!! Take that as a compliment!!
That spacer you found is the "secret sauce" in this project. It is absolutely required for a long life, chatter free spindle. Bearing type is not important.
Get the 20 ton air over hydraulic bottle jack from HF and put it on that press. You’ll love it, I do.
Just throwing this out there, had you considered bushings instead of bearings? Oilite bronze wouldn't work, but there are polymers that should, PEEK (polyetheretherketone) for instance. Since you have a lathe, it would have been fairly easy to machine them. I don't know about the finish in your drill press head, but if it were smooth enough, you might even be able to give the shaft a lot more support by machining the the bushing like a flange bushing. The flange portion would have the thickness of the old bearing and the rest could be as long as you wanted. Lots of area to take up compression loads and no pre-load problems at all.
I think this guy tends to learn the hard way quite often... but very interesting to watch so thank you Robert Adair.
Thanks for watching
Did a similar project years ago. Made a complete new spindle with a MT 2 nose and drawbar. Used taper roller bearings. Made a new column with some triple wall pipe. Lots of work for mediocre results. Like someone said, it's educational.
Great video on this, thanks for providing the original bearing specs, I do have one, the bearings are a little noisy but drills holes good enough for now. The WT line of tools changed hands bought by Delta and phased out. The odd bearings are used in their other machines also. Thanks.
Some of that chatter could be from the play in the quill gears because I know on my drill press there was a lot of play in the gears like back lash where you can grab the chuck and move it up and down and it's gear slop and on certain cuts with a end mill it'll leave chatter marks....and end mills only really cut in 1 direction with the work going into the direction of rotation....just like running a grinder or cutoff wheel
Enjoyed your video. I'll be looking for more in the future. Thanks
Interesting, thanks! I'll have to check out the other DP-milling-machine videos it sounds like you've done...
Love your videos and your by far one of the best at being informative so those of us who know less than we should can copy you and act like we know more than we do😂 just being honest. You've really helped me out a lot when I've lost my patience with the same projects
That's good to hear. I did eventually get there with mine and I use it more than I ever thought I would. TH-cam comments on the Mill video have been pretty harsh so it's good to get some positive comments. Appreciate it.
My guess is that the cast iron bore and or the spindle shaft is oval which results in the chatter. Can put it on centers and measure the spindle. If the spindle is round then can blue the spindle and see what is rubbed off. Ways sometimes are fixed by filler plastic. Oil the spindle and apply the plastic to the bore and even put a little force to increase the gap. Slide in place and then tighten toet reduce the gap and push out excess plastic and also remove from slit in the bore.
Angular contact bearing are designed to carry higher loads the roller bearing, however the drill press bearing is designed for high axial force. Stiffness should match the bearing of the casting and tube tube between the drill press and it's table. Not surprised you didn't get much of a gain.
I'm glad to see that it worked out in the end 👍
repurposed kitchen cabinets in the garage, it's a tradition....those are way better than mine from the '70s and warping overloaded
you can still use the die method, just need an adjustable die, one with a slit in it, allows for a tighter or looser fit, also can adjust for a deeper cut.
I hadn’t thought of that. Thank you.
There are so many possible areas that can induce chatter - without addressing ALL of them , fairly poor results is the norm !
Those X-Y tables tend to have a great deal of slop . . . I have the same one , & have spent nearly 30 hours on scraping & lapping it into a reasonably accurate piece . The lead screws are a poor fit at best - I'm replacing mine with 1/2 - 10 Acme screws, along with much better fitting 'homemade' nuts , that include delrin anti - backlash capability. With a bit of tinkering , my table will now travel 6" x 10" !
Drill press headstocks can be significantly improved by adding 'take up' screws that press onto the the quill from the outside of the housing , * one on the front , & one on the side , which excludes any quill movement . A quill LOCK is absolutely essential , to prevent any up & down motion ! Much like a bridgeport mill , a fine feed mechanism is very handy - *especially if it is made to preclude any SLOP ! When you consider the amount of backlash / freeplay of the average drill press' quill to downfeed gear , this becomes a necessary area to consider !
Good luck with your adventures ;)
Look on E-Bay for a book on your drill press. It will show all the parts. I just got an older Craftsman drill press and got the manual from E-Bay. It shows an exploded view of drill press. Just what you need.
Robert, did you check the run out on the shaft with an indicator? that would have given you some kind of indication wether the bearings were good or needed replacing and oerhaps saved some time and money?
Love your showing trying to build a drill press
One issue you can't really get around is the length below the lower bearing. That's probably affecting your rigidity a great deal. There's no real way around it though. Some drill presses, such as many of the Chinese presses that size, use a Morse taper arbor. That would allow the use of a Morse taper to er32 adapter and keep your tool much closer too the lower bearing. One though is, perhaps you can find a spindle that takes a Morse taper arbor that can be adapted to work in your drill press.
Great project. Please continue.
Thank you, Ernie.
I have the same drill press and your chatter is more likely due to the small diameter of the spindle and the amount of extension beyond the bearings. Cool idea though.
Oke did you control also your crostable I think there is a big problem and for milling put the cuttinghead up and put the tablel to the endmill 👍👍
You are very right about each Machine being different even if they are the same exact model. The Chatter You are getting is because the Spindle Speed is to fast. For the rough cuts slow down the Spindle Speed and increase the feed rate and/or depth of cut. Use the faster Spindle Speed with a slower Feed Rate and very light Depth (.005 inches to .015 inches) when doing the finish pass.
Thank you for the advice. I'll give it a try.
Definitely need to find a setup to preload the bearings but in all honesty your probably maxed out on rigidity anyway
I would have really enjoyed to see you take the spindle apart. But overall great video.
I thought that it turned out quite well especially considering his modest $$ investment. He proved it on steel and it would probably do a decent job on aluminum. We all throw our time at these projects and that time that we spend on a healthy project I consider to be an "education" whether it's a success or a fail. You used to be able to get an old Bridgeport for $1500-$2000. Them days are gone. Now $2000 is a steal and $3000 and up is the norm. A new "China" knee mill is $2500 plus tax and the wait is 5 to 17 weeks for delivery after payment. Happy home milling!
I like your vids. You showed how projects can be one challenge after another. I don't see that in other vids.
Thank you Gary French. Nice to hear.
I'm pretty sure that your camera is not making that noise. It is related to spinning so it for sure comes from your drill but if you cant hear it might be the compressor of the camera mic that pics the high noise when the sound pressure goes up.
You called it!. The tripod was up against the table and picked up the vibrations from the press. I figured it out later but didn’t have any good footage to replace it so I used it. I keep a better eye on the tripod.
* Another hot tip : use a 2 flute HSS endmill when cutting ALUMINUM - you'll likely get a better finish . . . ( a shot of WD-40 , or similar light oil / kerosene will also help ! )
Chattering is 100% due to lack of rigidity ! ! !
Awesome. Thanks for the tip. I'll give it try.
I wonder if you could use a narrow needle pin roller bearings and increase the size of the spindle that would give you the possibility to use a drawbar with R8 collet’s
I trust you have checked and eliminated any backlash in your cross feed table
Perhaps fit a finger gauge on drill press pipe and let finger gauge just touch the vice x axis then mill and again on y axise to establish if you have backlash
Enjoying the vids, good stuff.
Awesome. Thank you!
👍 surprised. I would have bet on the angular contact
I got really excited when I heard it’s a walker turner. I have an old walker turner drill press that Needs some TLC. My first “mill” was a DP220 that with an XY table.
Videos look great too! Just wanted to mention that your video quality has gotten really good!
Thank you. That's really nice to hear.
Hello there.. This is what I like - home diy problem solving the best way you can. Of course many things might go wrong when adapting something meant for one thing to do another thing, but sometimes it's the only way to reach a solution. Here you have some basic problems:
1. the machine is not meant for side forces, therefore it has lower rigidity
2. bearings are just a part of the equation
3. the shaft is thin and subject to chatter
4. 'n most probably the most important is the length from the lower bearing to the tip of the cutter. If you want to make it more stable, shorten the collet system, which is the hardest because of repurposing.
Also the direction of travel is better against the turning, as the machine is not rigid, traveling along it makes more chatter as it tries to pull also the table, which amplifies the oscillation.
Don't worry, you did a nice job, it's just the nature of the thing.. I don't recommend you to use it for much steel milling or it will last very little. Aluminum, plastics and brass should be manageable for some smaller projects. Anyway, I hope to see more about it.. 😉
Great learning from your work. I have a drill press that looks like yours, and would like to make a mill out of it....Thanks
I would suggest using a High speed steel end mill, aluminum is soft and has a low melting point, Carbide does not work will on aluminum, also some cutting oil or a water base coolant, otherwise the aluminum will build up on the cutter, remember carbide is hard and does not like give, it will chip or break! Also "Leslie Gray" is right Climb milling is not recommended, one it can grab the part and pull it, and it cause chatter, also if you have any play in your ball screw or thrust bearings you will all ready know what I am talking about!
Thank you, Richard. I had the carbide in there for machining that hardened shaft from the surface grinder, and in didn’t want to swap it. I think I need to buy a set of 1/4 or 1/2 HSS end mills.
But, of course, the bearing manufacturer and the grease additives you pack the bearings with are the most important thing, just like exotic capacitors are the most important thing in speakers, and vintage camera lens coatings are the most important thing in photography!
Excellent video Robert.. keep awesome content coming.. watching from Maine
Thanks 👍
Just came across your channel. I subscribed. I think it looks like fun, keep the content comin and never mind the arm chair geniuses. Just have fun and we’ll all learn together. Thanks
Thanks, Steve.
When you said lathe I didn’t rewlaize ya meant tiny toy this makes sense now . People save your money and look at auctions and buy real machines and u would be surprised what great deals u csn get at auctions
I did a lot of stuff with that lathe. Many bike parts and modifications before replacing it with a larger lathe. I cut my teeth on it and have no regrets about it. When you don't live in a city with a large industrial history (like Pitsburgh or Detroit) finding larger machines can be tough and when they do pop up, they are expensive. Some people don't have the space for a larger lathe, nor the money, and most don't even need to capabilities of a larger lathe. You should be a bit more open in your thinking about what tools people can afford and if they meet their needs. I could drive an F350 pickup, but I don't need one. So I have an old Dodge Dakota. It's kind of the same thing.
Great information to look for.
Thank for the video.
Very helpfull informations, Thank you GERRY G. from canada
Thanks for the video, well done my friend.
You do know, you can repack old bearing with a good hi-temp grease (Farmers Stores ie: Co-Op, TSC are the cheapest place to by grease) if there are dust caps, I use a carburetor pic to carefully pop the caps out, clean the bearing of any debre and repack install dust covers and presto you've lost your play in shafts, of course you are better to get new ones, but regular maintenance keeps e enough old bearings new again. Best of Luck, thanks for sharing I just subbed your videos interested to see new ones. Cheers from Barrie Ontario Canada L4M2Z8
My dad would put the grease in a coffee can and the bearings and heat it up until the grease was liquid then it ran inside the bearings.
The fit of the quill in its housing is just as important; that the bearings didn't make a big difference suggests looking there for any rigidity gains.
I hadn't even considered that. I need to go back and take a look at the quill lock and fit. Thanks for the advice.
I think you’d be better off adding an exo skeleton style extra quill housing to add rigidity. It’s built to do vertical drilling so I think adding that extra meat would help a ton
I saw someone make a three-column support for a similar drill press and they said it had a big impact. That's a good idea. It'll be a nice winter project once this NSU restoration is done.
I have a fealibg that the drill press head is "chattering" as its mounted on a pipe instead of solid bar???
More like FACT!!
Does the Quill lock? Is it a good fit in the drill head, if not, you could try electroplating it until it is a precice sliding push fit, lap it in even. Hope this is of help.
How is the quill bushed in the body of the drill press? Seems like theres a ton of Stick out with that set up? that Chinese X/Y table could be tuned up and tightened up (Scraped, hand or power) I'm 54 years old, I told myself my entire life the Same things you were saying, Bridgeports cost too much, Are too heavy to move, Where will I get 3 Phase? ETC - Bought My Bridgeport in 2018, just over 4 years ago, and while I got it rough and rusty and semi-worn, theres still a TON a life left in it, I paid $1k for it, moved it with a Buddy and a Bobcat with forks and a rented Home Depot trailer, once home with a Cheapo Harbor Freight folding engine hoist and also rolled it like the Egyptians on steel galvanized 1" water pipe, and Had it running perfectly on 20A of 220v Single phase with a $115 eBay Static Phase converter- Dont kid yourself, even a worn out tired 1967 Bridgeport J-Head is better than anything you can cobble together, and Parts for Bridgeports are DIRT CHEAP, You can rebuild the entire spindle with all bearings, seals, shims, sleeves, etc for like $350 - They made the EXACT same J-head from 1938 to 2012 with no changes, so parts avail is easy and plentiful - I shoulda bought one in my 20's back in the late 80's early 90's when they were newer and not so worn, I think now with so much industry going CNC and also overseas, old 1960's, 70's & 80's Bridgeports are getting cheaper and cheaper - I'm near the Tampa FL area FAR from the rust belt of the mid west where everything was manufactured, theres places in Illinois, Ohio, Kansas City, Etc with Real, USA Heavy machinery for PENNIES on the dollar compared to what I can find here -
Thank you! I have been watching for a Bridgeport J-head for the past year, maybe. I'm in Denver and we never had big industrial manufacturing here so they don't pop up used which makes this one tough. There was one that finally popped up locally a few weeks ago on eBay but it went for $3800. I found a guy who could transport it and offload it but he wanted $1200 to do so. It just got too expensive. I've been watching eBay and looking at some out on the west coast. I just need to find one in my price range that someone is willing to freight to my shop and unload. Time and patience, I suppose.
@@RobertAdairWorkshop Theres a 200 pound part I need for my Lathe in New Jersey right now, I'll be getting bids on Uship because NJ trip from FL is a bit too much- LOL
I think the biggest contributor to the chatter you're getting is due to the amount of spindle sticking our below the bearing, if you could reduce the length somehow and get the tooling closer to the lower bearing you'd have a much more rigid machine.
I think that’s good advice. Thank you.
TRY using a fly cutter with it. for larger surface area.
Fantastic! Thanks so much for sharing your journey on this.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Column rigidity is what I'm thinking, but could be multiple issues compounded together.
Check the difference between climb and conventional milling, the direction in which your tool path travels really really matters. you can't just zig zag and hope for the best
also look at your compound table to see if there is any chatter but I bet that it's the actual length between the stock of the machine and the very end of the chuck being long, add a mill bit in your chuck and it's even longer, doesn't help that you're not using a stubby bit either.
That's good advice. Thank you!
The angular contact bearings are directional and must be placed in the spindle correctly in order to work right under preload. I only mention this because you didn't in the vid. I have to applaud your effort here, but in the end I think you'd been better off saving and spending the money towards a larger machine. I was in the same position you're in, for years .. and I kept looking and was able to score a Lagun mill that already had nsk ballscrews for under 1000$ .More metal and bigger spindle sizes make a large difference. With the drill press you are limited by the small diameter of the spindle and the distance from your last bearing to the cutter which will cause lots of flex and chatter. If you can shorten that distance it will likely help. I would try to get more rpm out of it as well, which can help with finish. Carbide likes a certain speed and feed rate that is higher than hss cutters. Overall, nice job for working with what you got , been there before and sometimes its just plain frustrating.👍
All the more expensive lathes use roller bearings,, timken bearings are angler are in my atlas lathes but my Logan has roller bearings and you can even see the difference in peaces you turn and will get less chattering
13:50 I think you're saying the mill "prefers" conventional milling to climb milling, which would make sense.
Yeah, you're right.
Enjoyed your video. Like very much that the problems were explained. Your experience re-enforce 3 major things for this viewer: 1, spindle and quill heft of a drill press are no substitute for a mills; 2, frame column and head stock mass of a drill press are no match to a mill's; 3, and I can save a bunch of money by just buying a mill. Oh there is a 4th thing too. I would miss a lot of fun if I don't convert a drill into a light weight mill. Thanks for the entertainment.
Interesting content RA...right up my alley...new sub!
Awesome, thank you!
By going through your X y table you may be able to improve rigidity quite a bit. Check out winkys workshop videos on that exact table.
Good idea. Thank you, Rich Ball.
Enjoyed your video and I subbed you.
Thank you, Terry.
I'm interested in switching to the linear bearings. You mentioned the DOM tubing was 16 mm ID. What was the starting OD?
I think it was 20mm OD. McMaster 6045N13.
@@RobertAdairWorkshopThanks. I'm interested in switching just to replace my existing 80 year old bearings.
Hey Bob, how would you compare what you've made here to a budget bench top Chinese mini-mill?
Hi, William. I really don't know. I've never used one of those budget mini-mills. I'll admit, I wanted one. Pretty badly, actually. But the best I could do was the Harbor Freight version which was going to cost more than $1000 with delivery charges and taxes. I assume they are made similarly to the mini lathes, same fit and finish. I spent a lot of time and money getting my mini lathe up to speed and making it a usable tool and I thought that might add another few hundred dollars to the cost of the mini mill.
But something I haven't admitted to the community yet: I have the parts for my own mill build sitting in the garage waiting to be built. BT30 spindle. Epoxy granite column and base. That sort of thing. The drill press mill is a stepping stone between no mill and that new mill I'm building. I need a general mill to make some of those parts.
Despite the ending of the video and some of the comments here, I really like the drill press mill. It's met my needs fully.
Thank you for the response Bob. I have a Delta DP200 drill press that is (I believe) the same make as the one you converted here. Been considering the same conversion. Good content by the way. Give my channel a watch as well. Thanks again and good luck.
@@RobertAdairWorkshop I'm in similar situation. I'm on SSI. No excuses! Keep up the good work, and like a cool, wise person said above, I echo .... f*** the armchair experts, they are tools of fools. Keep the passion burning, take breaks when needed, then jump back in. You already know. You got this!!
Are the bearings originally Imperial?
M grade bearings are designed for electric motors and are tighter tolerance than standard bearings.
They are an odd mix of metric and imperial. As I recall, and my memory isn't the best, it's 5/8" on the ID, metric on the OD. I will take a look at M-grade bearings. Thank you.
So, did you go back and cut that T-nut for the Atlas lathe? I'd like to see how it does on steel.
And were the old bearings roller bearings, or ball bearings?
Use a mist coolant. Or some oil to lubricante.
I feel the length of that collet is too long thus making it weak it needs to be shorter for more rigidity. It like trying to mill with your spindle extedended downward vs lifting your work piece towards the spindle. Just something to maybe improve.
Good observation. Thank you!
Would it have been easier and stronger to turn a new 17 mm shaft?
Yeah. I think that's the better way to go. I didn't at the time because I wasn't sure how to make the splined end where the pulley engages.
@@RobertAdairWorkshop oh I missed the spline part. But maybe there's a way to weld the spline section on or cut it....gotta admit, cutting splines is a little beyond my capabilities atm...just throwing out some ideas...but nicely done and thanks for experimenting with ideas a lot of us without thousands of dollars to spend on machinery might have...another idea is maybe a sprocket/gear or pully could be welded directly to the top end of a 17mm shaft? Just seems any way to incorporate the thickest shaft possible would help..
Cheers
Pack the diameter with a bed of Bronze apply with a TIG , and machine it , it is more efficient and easier.
but I dough any of this was necessary, as a spacer or trust bearing could have been simpler to implement.
Es bastante más complicado de lo que parece, al final, si echas números, casi la compras nueva y diseñada para tal función.
The focus problem is that the camera is in auto-focus. If you can, put it in manual and set it before you start recording and the focus issues will disappear.
That’s really good advice. Thank you. I’ll try it on the next video.
So did you try placing the shaft in the freezer and right before pressing it heat the outer sleeve which would give you a pressure fit for the contact bearing making it more stable.
The drill press spindle and the entire structure is designed for axial loads and is not rigid enough to support radial loads of any consequence. Good try.
Thanks! It's been meeting my needs, despite that. But I'm a home shop and I'm not using it for machining anything of consequence.
Yes I am interested in this research. I have long given it much consideration. So in return I'll tell you if you beef up the quill with a tight fitting spacer or machine a heavy one from scratch with the most rigid steel type you can use, the vibration will be reduced. Also a mill has very heavy columns and casings that restrict the flex between the work and the cutter. Your spindle is smaller than some drawbars. Your rack is about the size of some spindles on milling machines. The trade off can be improved by tighter gibs and better fit for traversing the workpiece. For what you're working with, your work is typical. Should you machine steel, the higher pressure required will make the job less effective or at the least introduce further vibration and flex.
could you provide some help on your last sentence regarding steel??!! I am looking to do some very complicated, good quality work. I have LOTS of time, skill, patience. I have NO money at all. So with that, any info you can provide me with, and/or books, vids, articles ( even in other languages if applicable ) I would be extremely thankful.
I am looking to do very light milling cuts, even a few thou at a time, like my silly adj. reamers. But right now, that's all I got, and my reasoning is: I would rather build a tool with what I have now, then with that build another one a little better, lather, rinse, repeat, ....than to wait for someone to hand me a deal, or save up money for a grizzley. I will not be able to do those things. But working 18 hours a day, with my skills time patience, I can do. Please know who I am and who I'm not Jack. I got heart, brains, balls. Just no $$. Thanks, I look forward to hearing something from you, because I loved the your comment. It is right up my alley. --Joe
I did not like the sound of the cutter when milling, not sure if your feed rate is too fast ???
You know, I think it might be. I'll have to toy around with some different speeds and depths.
a file can do wonders.
F*** yeah!
how about converting a drill press into a metal lathe?
That would be an interesting project.
When you you say roller bearings, do you mean tapered roller bearings? Also you don't mention orientation of the angular contact bearing changes depending on preloading inner or outer race for the top bearing. Love your video, detest the insertion of any music.
You keep saying roller bearings when you should be saying ball bearings for the OEM bearings or angular contact bearings for the ones you purchased when you are discussing those. Roller bearings can be cylindrical in shape or a tapered cylinder (cone), as in Timken Tapered Roller Bearings. Look up conventional milling vs climb milling as you were describing those operations around 13:45. The key for milling is machine rigidity. There is another YT video where he was able to tie the drill head to a fixed object and used concrete for the base. Also locking the head with the table supporting the X-Y vise or base with bars or reinforcements will help. As others have said in the comments, use high speed steel tooling for aluminum and keep the quill as far up inside the drill press head.
I like it. But all ur money spent u could probably bought a new small mill or good used that u can cut any direction.
^^armchair^^
every milling maschine preferes to cut against the the rotation direction of the Bit... just go on circular motion when planing a surface and maybe take passes only milling in one direction and go back-move sideways and go again.
Won't the angular bearing last longer under milling use?
I don't really know. I may need a follow-up video on the topic of bearings in drill presses.
Would be nice to hear measurements in inches or thousands so I can actually understand and fallow along . As it is it’s very frustrating
I don't recall. Did I provide the measurements in mm? I'm an engineer. We use metric measurements so it's my default. If I did, the conversion is 25.4mm to 1".
You should have chucked the sleeve in your oven for an hour on max and put the spindle in the freezer then pull them out and the would you just fallen together
👍
Do u have the part number for the berings u used
They are R10-2RS. 5/8" shaft, 1 3/8" OD.
Buddy,it's called a drillpress for a reason
now I see where the term "retard" was born. And you even help bring forth its example and usage in everyday ordinary life. Like Solomon said, a wise man can learn from even you Sean. So true indeed!!
sometimes I wonder what your time is worth to build this...I would have just gone out and bought a mini mill for the amount of time and money you spent. Mini mills aren't expensive, run on plug power and take up less space than that Frankenstein death trap. I watch this and it's like using a socket wrench as a hammer. Yes it will work but at what cost and quality
I did it for fun, to see if I could. And I wanted to make a video on it that was better than what was on TH-cam. This is my most popular video so there's an appetite for this type of content. Getting a video that people actually watch is tough, as is coming up with ideas for projects that I also find enjoyable.
Most of the parts I used (the work table, the linear screw jack and the motor) were for another project I was working on and borrowed. I used it as a mill for a while with good results until I could find a better mill locally.
I didn't want one of those cheap Chinese mills. I had a cheap Chinese mini lathe and I spent twice what I paid for it, getting it to actually work right. And it was still always broken. Those mills are the same low quality. More to that point, though, I firmly believe in buying USA whenever possible and hate sending money to China. Those little mills would just send more US dollars overseas. I find it odd that much of my audience, Men in the baby boomer generation, recommend buying Chinese products over making something in the USA.. But I digress.
I've since bought and use a round column mill and the Walker Turner is back to being a drill press. Nothing in my workshop is ever permanant.
th-cam.com/video/kd4fgYpNiSQ/w-d-xo.html
@@RobertAdairWorkshop Sadly people with less sense will follow videos like this and build something that will seriously harm them. Remember most machines we use want to kill us. Add machines cobbled together and that just pushes the probablility it will happen.
Honestly some mini mills are quite good with great service. Precision Matthews comes to mind. Yes we can go down the rabbit hole on Chinese. Look at all the things that are made there mills are the least of my worries. If you live without Chinese products you are a better man than me. I rather support USA but sadly the consumer industrial complex rather build wealth than support Americans very little is made here now.
WHY DONT YOU JUST USE SOME THIN BRASS SHIM STOCK, AND SOLDER IT ONTO THE SHAFT, (IF NECESSARY),...
...THEN DRIVE THE NEW BALL BEARINGS ONTO THOSE, AND YOU'D BE DONE.
You have a lathe, why didn't you just cut the threads into it and make a nut with it? You didn't have to buy a tap and die. Also, there are a few videos here which show how to add a draw bar'ish adapter to a drill press head, to hold the chuck in place.
I tried with the lathe but the Mini Lathe is so poorly gears, it moved too fast for me to make the threads. I ruined two parts on the lathe before switching to a tap. I think my Atlas lathe would be a better tool for it but it wasn't, well, in existence when I made the mill.
Hello, in response to your comment, could you give the links of the videos you would like us to watch?
@@RobertAdairWorkshop treadmill PMDC motor. Find a throwaway treadmill, grab a toolbag, and some time, strip out the motor, AND the speed controller. Its a little boxy thing you can't miss. That's how I power my homemade 1920s metal lathe. VARIABLE SPEED. You can even connect a tachometer to the speed controller PCB. On mine it is blue wire. Keep going bro.
it likes conventional milling. not uncommon with a very loose "milll". your pulling the backlash out when you climb mill and that will make an ugly finnish. if there is no visual difference than go with the bearings that are meant for radial loads.
Thanks, Wags.