Well, here 4 years later, this video just saved me a bunch! Had the same issue and pulling the plugs and then the engine turned over freely gave it away. My john deere Intek 20hp, adj valves to .005, fired right up. I just subscribed to your channel. Thanks again.
I have a rider with a Briggs V-Twin engine. I replaced the battery because it would not crank over but it tried just like yours only did this sometimes and only after running it a short time, like pulling out of a shed then hooking up a lawn sweeper while engine is shut off. then getting back on for a slow crank. let it sit a couple more minutes and cranking fast again like it should..since then I did a valve adjustment and 3 our of the 4 were at .005 the one was about .006 or .007 that's the only one I adjusted also to .005, it just started fine and i did the short time shut off and it started right back up this time. not sure if that one valve being that close could have caused any problems...thanks for the video.
What would cause me to have to repeatedly set my valves? I have brand new plugs, new coil packs and new carb. Full throttle doesn't sound full and when I engage the blades itt Biggs down more than usual.
Thanks for this video. My Craftsman 22 hp B&S has been doing that for several years. I always thought it was the starter going bad. Now I know how to fix it.
I just replaced the battery for the second time in just a hundred hours. I just checked the front left valves yesterday and it appeared pretty close. I could squeeze both a 0.4 and 0.5 feeler gauge. I ran out of time for the second cylinder and hoping to check that out later this week. It started up with a new battery. However, it is like the battery has to work extra hard to turn the spinning thing on top of the motor. Luckily I did not have to adjust the first cylinders valves because I did not have the correct size bit to make an adjustment. Anybody know what the correct size bit is to adjust the valve in a in 22 hp Briggs and Stratton intek engine.
Hey Hank! I have a question about my briggs 6.0 engine on my lawn mower! It surges when running. I’ve rebuilt the original carb and put a new oem carb on and still no luck! New plug, air filter, gaskets etc! I was wondering if a blown head gasket would cause this since after the mower is stopped a lot of vapor comes out of the carb and air filter? By the way the compression is 110psi
thats a great tid bit I once heard an lod timer say good information is hard to find thank you for shareing how to find were to get information about the adjustments on thes templemel over head valves again thank you for shareing
This one also sat outside for several years and hot Cali summers. Both the sun and heat will destroy the plastics and seats on riders if not covered here.
I don't know why but it seems like all Briggs do this, especially the twin models, but they squeak a little bit on shutdown, and it's not just the bigger engines, I have at least a 20 year old push mower with a 6.5 hp Briggs motor, and it does the exact same thing, what the hell Briggs?
Tristan Heckler those intake push rods (aluminum) like to break on em too. ... But at ~$12-$15 apiece (genuine Briggs)...they're not too bad.. Just a pain...
I adjusted valves still same problem. Engine makes a half rotation and stops. Take the plug out turns over fine. I'm thinking the. Compression relief detent has broken off the camshaft.
@@hanksgarage_ Yes sir, that was the first thing I checked. Got it to start once with a jump box and cables hooked to my truck. But only once. Soon as I pull the spark plug the battery spins the motor freely.
Yea outside of that that compression relief may be the issue. Unfortunatley you wont be able to confirm that without pulling the engine and pulling the sump
@@hanksgarage_Yep I'm dreading it pretty bad. But it runs too good to justify buying a whole new mower. Appreciate the video. It was very clear, concise and helpful.
@@hanksgarage_ He will just have to do what I do, open the hood and force the engine through the compression stroke. The last four years I didn't bother getting a new battery, after turning it by hand the old battery will spin it fast enough to crank it. Only problem is my wife can't crank it so I have to always mow the grass.
im just wondering if that is a way around replacing the cam for more compression. only OHV i have the rings were shot when they got it. no compression when pulled by hand, but if i crank it with the drill it starts to get enough to run after 800rpm. it being a OHV has intimidated me enough to not try and replacing the rings as the valves are right on the cylinder head, also its a Honda and i have only messed with Briggs.
RockeyDAproductions well if the motor is already boned you can try it if you were just going to fix it anyway. The only way to fully solve that issue though is a rering and hone job
actually i have been pulling parts off of it, i just play with it from time to time, its missing the recoil and gas tank housing so i dont feel its worth saving. i was considering trying to turn the self propelled part into a ghetto wench for my mower. but its cold so only concerns are keeping my mower running over winter.
I have a question : How do lawn mowers charge the battery? My tractor only has a starter and magneto (ignition coil). Do they even charge the battery? I have an old Rally 10 hp , Briggs&Stratton engine.
There is a part called a stator underneath the flywheel(part that spins on the top/side of the engine). It produces AC current ONLY when the engine is operating. It is then converted to DC current by way of some sort of rectifier.If your "good battery" keeps dying upon regular usage you should check the following- Bad ground, short to ground, open circuit that should close when the ignition is off, bad stator or wiring. Good luck!!
I left a comment but deleted it after I did some more reading on forums. You answered me though, which I appreciate. Turns out the pushrod can get sucked into the engine through the oil return hole. Mine is completely missing so it's in there somewhere. The intake rod is bent, and the exhaust is missing. My concern right now is I have to pull the head and I'm hoping that it is in good shape and all I need to do is maybe soak the valves and replace the pushrods... and get that one out off the crankshaft. If not, it's a whole head replacement, which is about $200.
Man, that has to be OEM oil from the factory. Never seen oil sludge like that in one of those V Twin heads. Dude, you know your supposed to change the oil once per season right???
Jerome Cook honestly it’s splitting hairs. A lot of it there is not much of a science to it. Done by feel to what you think is best. It will never be 100% accurate which is why some manuals give you a range instead of one number. That said I always go with the manual.
@@zesthraxGaming I had mine set at .005 and it was running great but after seeing your comment I made the leap to .004 and after all that time and effort.. it exploded.. sheesh.. thanks a lot buddy
What a sludgy old thing. It's a miracle it has bent the push rods or worse still blown the entire engine !
Well, here 4 years later, this video just saved me a bunch! Had the same issue and pulling the plugs and then the engine turned over freely gave it away. My john deere Intek 20hp, adj valves to .005, fired right up. I just subscribed to your channel. Thanks again.
I have a Briggs model 422707 which turns over slow unless you pull out the spark plugs. Is there decompression on those old engines?
I have a rider with a Briggs V-Twin engine. I replaced the battery because it would not crank over but it tried just like yours only did this sometimes and only after running it a short time, like pulling out of a shed then hooking up a lawn sweeper while engine is shut off. then getting back on for a slow crank. let it sit a couple more minutes and cranking fast again like it should..since then I did a valve adjustment and 3 our of the 4 were at .005 the one was about .006 or .007 that's the only one I adjusted also to .005, it just started fine and i did the short time shut off and it started right back up this time. not sure if that one valve being that close could have caused any problems...thanks for the video.
This fixed my hard starting Intek. Video took longer to watch that actually adjusting the valves.
That’s because it’s super easy
What would cause me to have to repeatedly set my valves? I have brand new plugs, new coil packs and new carb. Full throttle doesn't sound full and when I engage the blades itt Biggs down more than usual.
Great work bud! I want a third hand sometimes as well 😃
I really thought your video to be quite precise. I have a similar issue and will try and fix it this weekend, Thank you Hank
Thanks for this video. My Craftsman 22 hp B&S has been doing that for several years. I always thought it was the starter going bad. Now I know how to fix it.
finally a post on the twin briggs issue-"hard to crank-won't start" thank you for posting.
I just replaced the battery for the second time in just a hundred hours. I just checked the front left valves yesterday and it appeared pretty close. I could squeeze both a 0.4 and 0.5 feeler gauge. I ran out of time for the second cylinder and hoping to check that out later this week. It started up with a new battery. However, it is like the battery has to work extra hard to turn the spinning thing on top of the motor. Luckily I did not have to adjust the first cylinders valves because I did not have the correct size bit to make an adjustment. Anybody know what the correct size bit is to adjust the valve in a in 22 hp Briggs and Stratton intek engine.
Hey Hank! I have a question about my briggs 6.0 engine on my lawn mower! It surges when running. I’ve rebuilt the original carb and put a new oem carb on and still no luck! New plug, air filter, gaskets etc! I was wondering if a blown head gasket would cause this since after the mower is stopped a lot of vapor comes out of the carb and air filter? By the way the compression is 110psi
Nick Nemanich sounds like a plugged pcv system try looking at that first
Seems like my valves are off and comoression release isnt very good
thats a great tid bit I once heard an lod timer say good information is hard to find thank you for shareing how to find were to get information about the adjustments on thes templemel over head valves again thank you for shareing
Have you ever changed the oil in that thing never seen one of these this sludged
Idk was fixing it for someone else not my mower
Yea mine has just over 400hours on it and still looks brand new under the cover
This one also sat outside for several years and hot Cali summers. Both the sun and heat will destroy the plastics and seats on riders if not covered here.
I don't know why but it seems like all Briggs do this, especially the twin models, but they squeak a little bit on shutdown, and it's not just the bigger engines, I have at least a 20 year old push mower with a 6.5 hp Briggs motor, and it does the exact same thing, what the hell Briggs?
Idk hard to say. I like the older Koehler commands a bit better than the Briggs stuff to be honest.
Tristan Heckler those intake push rods (aluminum) like to break on em too. ... But at ~$12-$15 apiece (genuine Briggs)...they're not too bad.. Just a pain...
I agree with people about changing your oil ! But those engines are pretty crappy may not won't want to wast good oil ! Lol
I adjusted valves still same problem. Engine makes a half rotation and stops. Take the plug out turns over fine. I'm thinking the. Compression relief detent has broken off the camshaft.
Check the battery first if you havent already, could just be its not putting out enough CCA to run the engine
@@hanksgarage_ Yes sir, that was the first thing I checked. Got it to start once with a jump box and cables hooked to my truck. But only once. Soon as I pull the spark plug the battery spins the motor freely.
Yea outside of that that compression relief may be the issue. Unfortunatley you wont be able to confirm that without pulling the engine and pulling the sump
@@hanksgarage_Yep I'm dreading it pretty bad. But it runs too good to justify buying a whole new mower. Appreciate the video. It was very clear, concise and helpful.
@@hanksgarage_ He will just have to do what I do, open the hood and force the engine through the compression stroke. The last four years I didn't bother getting a new battery, after turning it by hand the old battery will spin it fast enough to crank it. Only problem is my wife can't crank it so I have to always mow the grass.
so could you change gap to increase compression?
RockeyDAproductions you will end up wearing the rings out if you do that
im just wondering if that is a way around replacing the cam for more compression. only OHV i have the rings were shot when they got it. no compression when pulled by hand, but if i crank it with the drill it starts to get enough to run after 800rpm. it being a OHV has intimidated me enough to not try and replacing the rings as the valves are right on the cylinder head, also its a Honda and i have only messed with Briggs.
RockeyDAproductions well if the motor is already boned you can try it if you were just going to fix it anyway. The only way to fully solve that issue though is a rering and hone job
actually i have been pulling parts off of it, i just play with it from time to time, its missing the recoil and gas tank housing so i dont feel its worth saving. i was considering trying to turn the self propelled part into a ghetto wench for my mower. but its cold so only concerns are keeping my mower running over winter.
I have a question : How do lawn mowers charge the battery? My tractor only has a starter and magneto (ignition coil). Do they even charge the battery? I have an old Rally 10 hp , Briggs&Stratton engine.
There is a part called a stator underneath the flywheel(part that spins on the top/side of the engine). It produces AC current ONLY when the engine is operating. It is then converted to DC current by way of some sort of rectifier.If your "good battery" keeps dying upon regular usage you should check the following- Bad ground, short to ground, open circuit that should close when the ignition is off, bad stator or wiring. Good luck!!
Good job! Seems like I've had to adjust the valves on just about every OHV Briggs I've ever had. They're good engines though.
Alan Marshall yea seem to be ok
Alan Marshall And their really fuel efficient too.
The new briggs are not good, the old ones are.
Nicely done. Exactly what I needed. Nothing more, nothing less.
I left a comment but deleted it after I did some more reading on forums. You answered me though, which I appreciate. Turns out the pushrod can get sucked into the engine through the oil return hole. Mine is completely missing so it's in there somewhere. The intake rod is bent, and the exhaust is missing. My concern right now is I have to pull the head and I'm hoping that it is in good shape and all I need to do is maybe soak the valves and replace the pushrods... and get that one out off the crankshaft. If not, it's a whole head replacement, which is about $200.
That beats having to replace the whole engine though.
@@hanksgarage_ True, just sucks when you can buy a whole "new" used lawnmower for about $300.
I had been dealing with the same issue for three years. I just adjusted the valve and problem solve. Thanks
It’s a common issue on these engines. Although not too well known unfortunately
Man, that has to be OEM oil from the factory. Never seen oil sludge like that in one of those V Twin heads. Dude, you know your supposed to change the oil once per season right???
As has been said multiple times in other comments and in the video itself, this was a machine I was servicing for someone else.
This is what my mower does. Same engine, even after I bought a new starter
Yup sounds like it needs a valve adjustment
@@hanksgarage_ your absolutely right! When it warms up again. I'm going to use your advice! Thanks!
How did you turn the engine over to get to TDC?
By moving the intake fan guard by hand
Great video. I really appreciate the info.
Taryl said .004 on the valves.
Jerome Cook honestly it’s splitting hairs. A lot of it there is not much of a science to it. Done by feel to what you think is best. It will never be 100% accurate which is why some manuals give you a range instead of one number. That said I always go with the manual.
and there's your dinner
Taryl was right my motor runs alot better on .004 with .005 my carburetor backfires
@@zesthraxGaming I had mine set at .005 and it was running great but after seeing your comment I made the leap to .004 and after all that time and effort.. it exploded.. sheesh.. thanks a lot buddy
Good Video
KB'S Small engine Repair parts & Service thanks bud
Like butta. ..✌... She's smooth now....
That's what mine is doing!!! Its been doing it since 2nd week of ownership.
Not likely to be valves if it's NEW. Possibly a low battery?
@@norge696 No...I've had it for many years - at least 8 now. But it did exactly that from first ownership.
same for me.. always thought it was the battery... several years and batteries later here I am!
@@KJC63 I was given a freebie with a 21HP briggs v twin. It was hard cranking. adjusted both valves to 5 thou and now it cranks over easy.
"It's kinda hard to do this with two hands", is exactly what she said.