This comment is so fkin true I can relate to it!! It genuinely heats up the entire room in 30-45 minutes. Faster than an actual heater. And it keeps it warm for as long as you game. Following that, the next 3+ hours room is nice and hot. So hot in fact that I have to start opening the window and the door LOL
I always used 3M Double-sided Thermal Adhesive Tape to tape the little heatsinks onto the VRAM and VRMs. Never had a problem to install or uninstall if everything is cleaned nice.
I'd have to ask... why in the name of God is the USB 3.1 Version 2 Version 1 Version 3 Version 5 header in the center of the board and not on the edge...
Yeah. This is the dumbest thing I have seen on a MB in the last decade. It is absolutely crazy to me that they would do that, the same level of stupid that OEMs have when putting SATA connectors in the way of GPU mounting.
Timmy Joe I had that exact cooler on my old 980Ti blower model. It worked flawlessly. Much cooler, quieter, and higher clocks. Also you really should install the bracket, it does help.
Yeah I threw one of these on my Titan X Pascal in my 3900x rig, at 2000rpm, I hover in the 50'sC in the most intensive stuff. Massive improvement over the 84c on the stock blower.
I did that with my evga 970 I had. It wasn't a blower but the stock cooler was loud and very hot. I kept the mid and backplates and always ran the acceleros fans at max. It worked super well
I originally wrote a long comment about something like that. There's even larger clip on heatsinks and bonding thermal pads and paste that can be used to keep those little copper heatsinks on there
I was going to suggest that. Leaving midplate as a big heat spreader and heat sink for VRM and memory plus Accelero for the GPU. Maybe even backplate from blower cooler so he can clear USB-C connection. If everything fits it should be the best thermal solution for the card compared to only blower cooler.
Timmy, I’ve often wondered about modding the blower heat sink by cutting the fins off the top of it and tapping screw holes into it to mount an AIO liquid cooler where the fins used to be. That maintains the direct contact pads with the VRAM and VRM as well as the back plate etc. I’d love to see you do that with this card, maybe try it with a sacrificial card first though as a proof of concept.
I think this cooling solution looks pretty dope. Also it won't void your warranty, just put the original cooler back if you need to get warranty. "Warranty void if removed" stickers are not legally enforcable
I have the same exact card. Using the custom fan profile Arctic recommends, my temps never go above 65C. I have the core at +250 and +900 on the memory. The biggest limiting factor with this card is the BIOS limits on power and voltage. Flashing to a BIOS with a higher TDP could get even better results. I'm happy leaving it stock. The card stays over 2GHz at all times for me now and is silent. So happy with the accelero.
Great cooler, I put it on my 1080ti, the very cheap Inno3D X2 model with the FE PCB. This card has a passive heatsink covering almost the whole card, including VRAM and VRM while it is connected to the backplate. I just kept that und put the Accelero on it without bothering with the backplate cooler. This resulted in great temps and very nice boost clock. If you can, just keep the stock vram/vrm cooler plate on your card.
I have seen it in the past, I know it's a nicer solution but it's essentially the same with gluing heatsinks on the mem and VRM but I would like to get my hands on one again
@Advocatus Diaboli I think rakintek provides heat sinks for vrm with the morpheus but you have to provide the fans. Advantages over a WC solution ? mostly far easier to fix if any issue happen and no noise from the pump.. and not everybody want to commit into a WC loop. But it's hard to find -at least in France- , ordered one from amazon 1 week ago for my noisy stock vega 56, still not shiped yet.
I was going to put one on my vega 64, still might but I have to shave the rear bracket somehow if I want to keep my backplate. I gotta say though it is sexier to my eye, and any pair of 120mm fans will do, ofc that means it doesn't come with any and it was already more expensive than the accellero
@Advocatus Diaboli yeh not really fair to compare a cooler that only needs fans to a block which requires multiple other expensive components to do it job. Not to mention the upkeep & risk of an open loop.
I have used thermal glue a lot years ago never had issues with heatsinks falling off. Also mounted quite big and relatively heavy stuff compared to the contact area. Never had issues. You do have to mix the two components correctly to make it work well.
i putted an accelero III on a GTX1070 Turbo, which was a blower design, and Asus's design had a front plate that was making contact with the VRMs and the memories with thermal pads and held up with screws, so i put the front plate and then put the accelero on top of it and it works great, it even reaches 2Ghz on its own, which was only a dream before with the blower design that used to thermal throttle. maybe your card has a front plate, because mine was attached and glued to the blower cooler but after some convincing it came off.
Because this is a OEM version of the 2080ti, its a non Oc version or also known as a Non A Varient chip(TU102-300). The cooler you get the the higher boost clock you get. So the kraken g12 is the best way to get this card cool with a average of 40-45 degrees at load. The next problem is because its a non A Vairent chip it has a locked Power limit. There are some bios's out there that will give you some extra headroom as long as its based on reference design which most of these cards are. Mine is a Asus Turbo RTX 2080 Ti which now with a new mod has a 124 percent power limit. When stress testing the Gpu I hover around 2000-2040 Mhz. This is not bad at all for a TU102-300 chip. Vrm's are cooled by external fan + the Kraken Fan and Oc to 1000mhz. Also when overclocking the 2080ti, the curve graph is the way to go on Afterburner. It's actually surprising on how efficient the 2080ti is on power and can be undervolted to get higher clocks.
That blower card is so shitty that if you click on the fan it pops out wheels, starts spinning, lights up with crappy lights and starts playing Ay, ay, ay I'm your little butterfly.
Not having heatsink is the reason why I did not get this Accelero for my 1080ti. Instead, I got an Accelero Twin Turbo that is not listed for 1080ti, but worked like a charm with all the heatsink that AC included. I did use AKASA thermal adhesive tape, instead of the bi-component glue. Ultra low temp... imho no need to have a triple fan.
I have this thing on my gtx 1070 and i works absolut great, the fans are running at maximum 40% at 60-65C°. I also put some cheap heatsinks on the ram and vrms (
I tip my hat to you, Sir! It's rare to hear any person that is willing to say "I was wrong". While you were not wrong about the 5700 use you spent the time to not only show your followers but to get a fair assessment on the 2080. Another great video! Way to go Timmy Joe!
The blower stock cooler has a metal plate for vrms and vrams. You can take it apart from the vapor chamber and you can install it first to card. Then the accelero IV That's what I did with my 1080.
Regarding the Accelero back plate, I ended up adding 2 low profile 40mm Noctua fans with rubber mounts to it that I control trough the MB PWM. This lowered the overall temperatures and increased the performance drastically. Additionally, my case has 5 120mm and 3 140mm PWM fans and the airflow is a small hurricane. I barely hit 50 Celsius overclocked at any load. Oh, and it is silent as like it has no fans.
I put an Accelero on an ATI card that came with an inadequate cooling solution. It was quite fiddly but did a great job, reducing under load temps by 12°C
Just order an Alphacool Icewolf thats exspecially maid for selected cards, so you have no problems with some things not getting Proper cooling. Its a modular AiO Watercoolersystem. You can order just a GPU Block with Quickreleasefittings and combine it with like an Icebear LT 360 CPU AiO(that has One single Quickreleasefitting for exactly this purpose). Or you could just order an Eiswolf AiO with a 120 or 240 Radiator. The first option i said costs all in all about 230$ and the second option is at 150$.
For what it's worth, I have an Accelero 3 on my MSI Armor 1080 Ti. I re-used the front and backplates of the armor, and only needed to basically re-apply the thermal pad on the row of memory chips above the GPU die for installing my Xtreme 3, with some ram-sized heatsinks. That said, when I had finally been able to attend to my 4GB 960 and elected to swap its blower with the dual-fan cooler from a recently dead 460 on it (the holes lined up), I used the contact cement from that on the VRM's because the pins that held the VRM cooler basically broke so the original one wasn't going to stay on there, anyways. The cooling swap did wonders, because with the blower, it would hit a peak of 80C on running Superposition, but would then be no warmer than 51C with the cooler swap :D I'm not a fan of the permanent nature of the contact cement; on that, I agree. But it does seem to work for where I used it.
I got the RTX 2080 Ti EVGA Black which is one of the cheapest, if not the cheapest, RTX 2080 Ti. Threw on a waterblock on it in my custom loop and now it boosts to 2000-2085 MHz steady in game. Peak temp only around 57 degrees F. Got it for $1200 CAD on Kijiji barely used. Very happy with the performance now that I threw a waterblock on it. Prob would benefit your card greatly too...
Also with blower cards... Get some Intake fans. Less exhaust. (if you have watercooled CPU, use ONLY the radiator/fans as exhaust) And close case vents! The more possitive pressure you get in the case, the better it is with the blower cards. They make less noise as well. Not working so hard to pull in air needed for the high pressure over the heatsink within the cover. You also get less dust. With "open cooler" cards, like this Accelero, you need more exhaust, or it will just heat up the inside of the case
Timmy Joe! I have also a story about these Accelero coolers from Arctic cooling. They are actually amazingly good for even descent price. But that's not the story. I had a Accelero Extreme III, which was dual fan and also with installable backplate. But that backplate appeared a problem. My motherboard had a PCIE X16 slot as the first slot, and that why, the backplate heatsink was bumping into ram. Eventually, i did not notice, but i did break off one diode on the RAM module because of the spacing problems. Got to exchange RAM module. Luckly they did exchange it. So in the end, i did not use the backplate. I had Club 3D Radeon HD7970 Royal King or Queen. Basically the strongest factory overclocked HD7970. Stock cooler was loud AF, that's why i was searching for aftermarket coolet. After 3 or 4 year use, my HD7970 eventually died. Voltake regulators near the MODFETs just burned. Probably, reasons was not using the backplate. But.... Yeah... I could not really! XD
You can get a heatsink from an dead AIB model that is compatible with that PCB if you a cleaner look. Will be no RGB or some stuff like that but it'll still be a 2080Ti in it heart anyway. I've been doing some similar stuff with some 960. Jerryrigged a Windforce model with a almost brand new cooler from a 960 G1 (RMA Dead card prolly)
I have done 4 cards with the Arctic Accelero 3 and the contact cement heatsinks require at least 24 hours to set properly. So you have to go without the card for a day. Well worth the wait. None of the cards could get past 45°C. I found that higher temps mean bad case airflow.
I got an idea: modify the blower by cutting out air holes in key places and then put one of those pivoting-on-a-stick case fans pointed right at the air holes, could be a good blower mod
According to their website, the Accelero Xtreme IV: Revision 02 also happens to be compatible with the Titan RTX, which makes sense when we consider that the board has the same dimensions as the 2080 Ti and and thus would fit without issues; what I don't know is how well it will cool the Titan RTX when compared to the Founders Edition cooler, and this would definitely be a nice experiment to touch at some point soon, especially if it's compared with all the other TU102 Coolers that are out there, it might not win against other Third Party coolers but I am sure it'll still be ideal for many users on a budget who don't want to stick with the Founders Edition cooler and wonder what might be the cheapest option with the most effectiveness. (:
The Morpheus ii cooler is great for this too. I had a Asus blower 1080ti and I kept the vrm and memory front plate and put the Morpheus with 2 corsair ml120 fans on them. It looks pretty sweet and with an undervolt at stock clocks have a 36 degree difference in temps. Now I don't pass 48 and I'm on max GPU boost 1911 at .899v Aftermarket coolers or water locks on blower cards is a must if you have the room
Been very tempted to try this cooler on my EVGA 2080Ti Black. even 190+ core it gets about 77-80C, but this would be MUCH quieter. Other than noise, the real issue is the 112% power limit, can't do a whole lot with lower temps.
always wondered if those little heatsinks on the Accelero 3 could fall someday, but have mine on a gtx970 for 3 years now and no issues at all. it still rocks cool and quiet. and that rtx 2080 ti will rock too . -20ºC and - 2000 RPM its a win.
the anti sag bracket has a second function as a direct cooling fan bracket slap some arctic air pressure fans on the side of it and overclock it further O_O!
When it comes to custom air cooling your GPU, I am all for the Rajintek Morpheus 2 cooler. Yes it is overall a bit more exspensive, but you can use 120mm fans of your choice and when one dies, go to a market and just buy a replacement. All fixed fans will cause more effort to be replaced and are barely as good as some 20$ fans. Yes, it is all together ugly as hell, but very effective cooling and very silent (when you get the right fans) and it is still far cheaper than a custom loop with a waterblock for your CPU and GPU.
In the United States it is illegal for those warranty void if removed stickers. It will not void your warranty from defects. Now damage, that is a different story... Good content!
I would've liked to see just how low the temperatures could get if you were willing to allow more noise, aka crank the fan. Especially the noise levels and thermals at 100% fan speed.
I know this videos over a year old but I will say for anyone attempting that the Extreme IV isn't made for the 20 and 30 series cards. They only support up to the 10 series GPUs.
Now start flashing bios with higher power limit to it for better score. For Non-A chip I recommend the Palit 2080Ti 310W bios, check TPU bios collections.
Inno 3D x2 makes a card with a heatsink on the front of the card that you can keep on there so all critical components get cooled. Just remove the original fans and replace it with a Arctic accelero extreme 3 or 4. Works much better than even a custom loop!
I'm really happy everything is going good for you Timmy Joe. I wish for your sake you had sent it back but it turned out to make a good series. Now, if my 2070 would get back to me all would be warm and fuzzy.
I have the accelero Xtreme III on my 1080ti, which was a asus turbo. And it's working so good. I was thinking of getting the IV instead but now i actually see that the III is better cuz it has direct VRM cooling.
I have the arctic duo and put some slapped on two 120mm fans stays nice and cool. use compound paste for the vrm' s and memory. Did not have any problems with my heat sinks coming off.
In my case, GTX1060 mini + bigboi AA twin turbo III = gg temps From easily hitting 84++ (even with a ghettomod 120mm strapped to the stock cooler since the old fan died) to just slightly above 60 at 40% fanspeed (almost silent in a closed case) in Furmark. Installation is a pain in the rear, but the temps are 👌
Gigabyte have stepped up their game tho. The rtx 2070 super gaming oc 3x 8gb. Is very good with temps. Around 60-63 at gaming load with a fan speed off 65% and I dont even hear it. I hear the case fans. I have 3 in the front and 1 in the back xD
@@Pand0rasAct0r_ i replaced the cooler because one of the fan died and i didnt want to rma and wait like a month... Did not regret it as i gained 20c better temps. Might be good but arctic coolers are always a good step ahead... Not the best looking coolers but the most effective for sure
@@Billy-pk6ju true but if you would consider gigabyte you should :) their new cooling designes especially for the rtx series are amazing. Do get the oc versions though not the cheaper windforce.
I have a accelero mono plus, i have not had the glued on heat syncs fall off, but i only have them on the memory chips, the VRM had a small dedicated heat sync so i left that on it, i spread the glue stuff all over the bottom of the heat syncs in a nice thin layer and stuck them on
Reminds me of the time i finally got all my lawn mowing cash to buy my first video card, the agp sapphire 1950x. it thermal throttle and was absolute crap. i cried like the kid i was because all my money was in it. then i got a stupid aftermarket cooler which did not cool the power part and only the core. then i had to glue a heatsink to the back, cut a hole in my case and they mount a 120mm fan blowing directly at or it would shutdown the pc. later i could finally get a job and saved 2 month paychecks and got a new pc with a r9 270x and i had that for a long time.
I ran an accelero cooler on my 1080ti. Really liked it and it worked well on my z370 board. When I switched to an Asus TuF B550, that giant heat sink backplate was hitting my ram. Really frustrating
Regarding your comment about heatsinks with thermal adhesive falling off... I used this thermal glue to attach heatsinks onto my 1080Ti almost a year ago and they havent budged. Where as when i used to buy the accelero coolers that came small heatsinks that had pre applied thermal tape that were ready to stick on - those fell off every few months due to the heat. You need to give the thermal adhesive/glue at least 1hr to cure at the least or 3 if you want to be 100% safe so maybe you were rushing and didnt give it enough time. ---- Also no heatsinks on the VRMs cant be a good idea.
Hey TJ. I have an Alienware Aurora r8 and it came with a blower 2080. It is obnoxious when it heats up and hovers around 83c. Due to my case size I ordered the accelero twin ii. Do you think this would be suitable or should I just return it before I try?
I have an EVGA RTX 2080 Blower and the Accellero 3 is what I used. After fiddling with it......worth every penny. I got the 2080 for $450 lightly used.
you have all three of those fans blowing onto the vrm with the aftermarket. and only one fan pulling all the heat from the cpu and vrm with the stock. even if it is direct contact it would be way worse. all that heat from the cpu is going directly over to the vrm because the fan isnt enough to cool the heatsink, before it gets that far. that card running at stock and almost hitting 90 should have been the first clue there timmy boy lol. with a card that expensive, i wouldnt care what it looked like. it is going to be number one for a long time or close to it so longevity is a must.
personally if i was going to use accelero i would use the backplate heatsink and memory and VRM heatsinks but i do wish they would make an all black version of it
I have rtx 2080ti turbo (blower) set on custom curve fan, minimal at 50% , at max usage 80%, it's noisy, yes but it goes up to 2070mhz and stays at 65c max ;) OC it by 180 mhz on core and 450 mhz on memory. Running no problem :) I plan to get water-cooling in the future :) For now I'm glad I bought it :)
What the hell man, you act like -20 C is nothing while that is amazing, like the card being silent instead of vacuum-cleaner is no big deal instead of amazing, yes it's big but it's functional - as it should be, a smaller surface would get itself hot instead of cooling from ~1h of gaming, so it would be pointless. The anti-sag thing can have an extra fan mounted, besides it should be mounted anyway since it works so the card doesn't sag, and you could put a cooler to blow above the card through those fins, who cares about looks when you can get this much functionality without water/liquid cooling or other exotic solutions! Arctic as usual rocks! Thank you for the video! It needed to be done.
I been using the Accelero Xtreme IV for years now and I am happy to say that I never had a problem with it ... it keeps my AMD GPU(s) Kool and Silent ... one thing, the back plate is Humongous, in some of the motherboards I bought through the years, I had to move the GPU to the 2ry 16x PCI-E slot, as the back fins kept hitting the memory
Give the Raijintek Morpheus II a try. It comes with a bunch of heatsinks for the VRM and VRAM, like the Accelero III, but with thermal tape instead of the nasty cement stuff. I've had zero problems with them coming off on my 1080Ti. Just make sure to wipe off any grease (from thermal pads) that might be on the VRM and memory modules before attaching the heatsinks. Also, it doesn't come with fans, so you can put some Noctuas on it and have a super quiet card.
Just wanted to write a little message and give you a big thumbs up. Love the content and the enthusiasm you have in your videos. So glad I found your channel! Keep up the amazing content.
you need to use small stick on heatsinks for the ram and vrms and stuff when using the artic cooler. Can get an assortment of them on amazon for like 10$. Have one on a gtx 1080 fe, with a 190 mhz core offset it wont hit more than 56c using the artic 4. Just have to know what you are doing to make them work but when they work, THEY WORK
No temp sensor on the memory and it's great just cause it runs? Maybe it's just those vram chips are slowly turning to silicon slag perma-melted to the pwb and you don't know it. Yet. But great review...it is nice to know where the limitation of that after market GPU cooler comes from.
I have a Gigabyte R9 390 Gaming G1 that I put an accelero IV on and it made a tremendous difference. Went from about 95c and a hurricane to keep it from 100c down to 58-60c with fans around 70% just to keep good airflow on the VRMs/Memory. I wish they had a good method for direct cooling memory and VRMs with that thing as ugly as it is. 👍
Thumbs up for the cheering video but why didnt you try to put the fan curve on the accelero ? (like instructed in the manual) an also see higher frequencies. Nvidia Boost works this way it checks temps and if could lower them more would result in higher clocks for the Accelero.
-20c it is an amazing improvement!
Like your mom
I agree besides the noise and best performance you have temps with -20c then with the blower cooler then it's a big improvement.
@@thealien_ali3382 is that supposed to be an insult, lol.
@@OmarAhmed-is6ok like your mom
@@thealien_ali3382 like ur dad
i like my gtx 1080, it heats my room in the winter
This comment is so fkin true I can relate to it!! It genuinely heats up the entire room in 30-45 minutes. Faster than an actual heater. And it keeps it warm for as long as you game. Following that, the next 3+ hours room is nice and hot. So hot in fact that I have to start opening the window and the door LOL
Robert Fierce so true🙈😂😂
Ah yes limited time play
My laptop is heating better than my radiator. I5 3210m GT630m over 90°C
@@angryaquar how isn't it dead yet bro
❌ Timmy Joe
✔️Jimmy Toe
Does a 1080 or 1080ti founders edition cooler fit on?
nice lol
Who's joe?
@@Saigonas Joe mama
Jim, my toe.
"Looks only a mother could love"
- Jimmy Toe
0-o
@@jdmnissan and it's just that simple to make a dell 1080ti work properly
But- I only made 0-o face?
what? jimmy toe XD
lmao
I always used 3M Double-sided Thermal Adhesive Tape to tape the little heatsinks onto the VRAM and VRMs. Never had a problem to install or uninstall if everything is cleaned nice.
That's what you are supposed to do
3M knows their stuff.
They do make a thermal glue stuff but it's kinda permanent
I'd have to ask... why in the name of God is the USB 3.1 Version 2 Version 1 Version 3 Version 5 header in the center of the board and not on the edge...
Because your belly button is also in the middle. 😂 Sorry i don't know
@@matricxs3271 lmfao thank you for that
Yeah. This is the dumbest thing I have seen on a MB in the last decade. It is absolutely crazy to me that they would do that, the same level of stupid that OEMs have when putting SATA connectors in the way of GPU mounting.
because gigabyte
I actually like how the AAX looks, but than again I can look at motherboards for extended periods of time...
They do a 10th version?
Damn man that thing is the ugliest Rtx 2080 ti I’ve ever seen 😂
will take it over 1070 ti
Yeah... As a good samaritan, I will trade him my better looking Zotac 1660ti for that ugly thing. No need to thank me!
time to watercool it now :D
Lol you know you're a performance junkie when low 60s just isn't good enough.
Alphacool is the way, free custom cooler and theyd get nice promotion from this
I was thinking the same thing myself lol
Yes
Timmy Joe I had that exact cooler on my old 980Ti blower model. It worked flawlessly. Much cooler, quieter, and higher clocks. Also you really should install the bracket, it does help.
bracket?
Rear piece its a plate
Yeah I threw one of these on my Titan X Pascal in my 3900x rig, at 2000rpm, I hover in the 50'sC in the most intensive stuff.
Massive improvement over the 84c on the stock blower.
GAMMA XII thanks for the info, might get one as well for my MSI 1070ti gaming
GAMMA XII but as I heard accelero doesnt cool vrm and other parts of the gpu? Could that affect lifetime of gpu?
@@MrAknur it does come with vrm cooling
Performance: 100%
Appearance: 0%
Just because it's not all flashy with RGB doesn't mean it doesn't look good. The accelero looks good in it's own way.
It looks better than any aftermarket card.
Ali Abbas
Your joke: 0%
Your hair: 5%
@@thealien_ali3382 gottem
@@vogonp4287 No. Card does not need rgb to look good, but this one does not look good.
frequency on 2080 ti is much more a question of power limit than temperature
I try to, where possible, mix the blower's midplate(contacts VRM and Mem) with the accellero. Maybe give that a shot.
I did that with my evga 970 I had. It wasn't a blower but the stock cooler was loud and very hot. I kept the mid and backplates and always ran the acceleros fans at max. It worked super well
I originally wrote a long comment about something like that. There's even larger clip on heatsinks and bonding thermal pads and paste that can be used to keep those little copper heatsinks on there
I was going to suggest that. Leaving midplate as a big heat spreader and heat sink for VRM and memory plus Accelero for the GPU. Maybe even backplate from blower cooler so he can clear USB-C connection. If everything fits it should be the best thermal solution for the card compared to only blower cooler.
I tried once with a vega64 and it works great lol
been waiting for ages for this to come up
Timmy, I’ve often wondered about modding the blower heat sink by cutting the fins off the top of it and tapping screw holes into it to mount an AIO liquid cooler where the fins used to be. That maintains the direct contact pads with the VRAM and VRM as well as the back plate etc. I’d love to see you do that with this card, maybe try it with a sacrificial card first though as a proof of concept.
I think this cooling solution looks pretty dope. Also it won't void your warranty, just put the original cooler back if you need to get warranty. "Warranty void if removed" stickers are not legally enforcable
What if we use 100% of our fans
Timmy: you dont wanna know. Ive seen things no one has seen
Do the vector 2080ti 43° max and 2150Mhz
@@miguelc3558 hell ye. 60fps. And 15k score on 3d mark
pulls out 120x38mm 4000RPM delta fan, you know nothing of 100% fan speed
@@chadmckean9026 timmy: this is not even my LAST FAN
I have the same exact card. Using the custom fan profile Arctic recommends, my temps never go above 65C. I have the core at +250 and +900 on the memory. The biggest limiting factor with this card is the BIOS limits on power and voltage. Flashing to a BIOS with a higher TDP could get even better results. I'm happy leaving it stock. The card stays over 2GHz at all times for me now and is silent. So happy with the accelero.
Great cooler, I put it on my 1080ti, the very cheap Inno3D X2 model with the FE PCB. This card has a passive heatsink covering almost the whole card, including VRAM and VRM while it is connected to the backplate. I just kept that und put the Accelero on it without bothering with the backplate cooler. This resulted in great temps and very nice boost clock. If you can, just keep the stock vram/vrm cooler plate on your card.
What are the fan outs on the accelero? I want to make sure it can connect to my gpu.
look into the "RAIJINTEK MORPHEUS VEGA - Superior High-End VGA Cooler" its pretty slick. similar to accelero but more aesthetically pleasing
I have seen it in the past, I know it's a nicer solution but it's essentially the same with gluing heatsinks on the mem and VRM but I would like to get my hands on one again
@Advocatus Diaboli I think rakintek provides heat sinks for vrm with the morpheus but you have to provide the fans. Advantages over a WC solution ? mostly far easier to fix if any issue happen and no noise from the pump.. and not everybody want to commit into a WC loop. But it's hard to find -at least in France- , ordered one from amazon 1 week ago for my noisy stock vega 56, still not shiped yet.
I was going to put one on my vega 64, still might but I have to shave the rear bracket somehow if I want to keep my backplate. I gotta say though it is sexier to my eye, and any pair of 120mm fans will do, ofc that means it doesn't come with any and it was already more expensive than the accellero
@Advocatus Diaboli that's the opinion of a fool
@Advocatus Diaboli yeh not really fair to compare a cooler that only needs fans to a block which requires multiple other expensive components to do it job. Not to mention the upkeep & risk of an open loop.
I have used thermal glue a lot years ago never had issues with heatsinks falling off. Also mounted quite big and relatively heavy stuff compared to the contact area. Never had issues. You do have to mix the two components correctly to make it work well.
i putted an accelero III on a GTX1070 Turbo, which was a blower design, and Asus's design had a front plate that was making contact with the VRMs and the memories with thermal pads and held up with screws, so i put the front plate and then put the accelero on top of it and it works great, it even reaches 2Ghz on its own, which was only a dream before with the blower design that used to thermal throttle.
maybe your card has a front plate, because mine was attached and glued to the blower cooler but after some convincing it came off.
oh your channel has a review on the Asus GTX1070 Turbo, so you should know xd.
Because this is a OEM version of the 2080ti, its a non Oc version or also known as a Non A Varient chip(TU102-300). The cooler you get the the higher boost clock you get. So the kraken g12 is the best way to get this card cool with a average of 40-45 degrees at load. The next problem is because its a non A Vairent chip it has a locked Power limit. There are some bios's out there that will give you some extra headroom as long as its based on reference design which most of these cards are. Mine is a Asus Turbo RTX 2080 Ti which now with a new mod has a 124 percent power limit. When stress testing the Gpu I hover around 2000-2040 Mhz. This is not bad at all for a TU102-300 chip. Vrm's are cooled by external fan + the Kraken Fan and Oc to 1000mhz.
Also when overclocking the 2080ti, the curve graph is the way to go on Afterburner. It's actually surprising on how efficient the 2080ti is on power and can be undervolted to get higher clocks.
That blower card is so shitty that if you click on the fan it pops out wheels, starts spinning, lights up with crappy lights and starts playing Ay, ay, ay I'm your little butterfly.
Green, black and blue
Make the colours in the sky
I want to kiss you !
Not having heatsink is the reason why I did not get this Accelero for my 1080ti. Instead, I got an Accelero Twin Turbo that is not listed for 1080ti, but worked like a charm with all the heatsink that AC included. I did use AKASA thermal adhesive tape, instead of the bi-component glue.
Ultra low temp... imho no need to have a triple fan.
You have to close the case, so that the airflow in the case will cool the heatsinks at the back of the gpu.
I have this thing on my gtx 1070 and i works absolut great, the fans are running at maximum 40% at 60-65C°.
I also put some cheap heatsinks on the ram and vrms (
I tip my hat to you, Sir! It's rare to hear any person that is willing to say "I was wrong". While you were not wrong about the 5700 use you spent the time to not only show your followers but to get a fair assessment on the 2080. Another great video! Way to go Timmy Joe!
The blower stock cooler has a metal plate for vrms and vrams. You can take it apart from the vapor chamber and you can install it first to card. Then the accelero IV
That's what I did with my 1080.
Regarding the Accelero back plate, I ended up adding 2 low profile 40mm Noctua fans with rubber mounts to it that I control trough the MB PWM. This lowered the overall temperatures and increased the performance drastically. Additionally, my case has 5 120mm and 3 140mm PWM fans and the airflow is a small hurricane. I barely hit 50 Celsius overclocked at any load. Oh, and it is silent as like it has no fans.
I put an Accelero on an ATI card that came with an inadequate cooling solution. It was quite fiddly but did a great job, reducing under load temps by 12°C
Just order an Alphacool Icewolf thats exspecially maid for selected cards, so you have no problems with some things not getting Proper cooling. Its a modular AiO Watercoolersystem. You can order just a GPU Block with Quickreleasefittings and combine it with like an Icebear LT 360 CPU AiO(that has One single Quickreleasefitting for exactly this purpose). Or you could just order an Eiswolf AiO with a 120 or 240 Radiator.
The first option i said costs all in all about 230$ and the second option is at 150$.
For what it's worth, I have an Accelero 3 on my MSI Armor 1080 Ti. I re-used the front and backplates of the armor, and only needed to basically re-apply the thermal pad on the row of memory chips above the GPU die for installing my Xtreme 3, with some ram-sized heatsinks.
That said, when I had finally been able to attend to my 4GB 960 and elected to swap its blower with the dual-fan cooler from a recently dead 460 on it (the holes lined up), I used the contact cement from that on the VRM's because the pins that held the VRM cooler basically broke so the original one wasn't going to stay on there, anyways. The cooling swap did wonders, because with the blower, it would hit a peak of 80C on running Superposition, but would then be no warmer than 51C with the cooler swap :D
I'm not a fan of the permanent nature of the contact cement; on that, I agree. But it does seem to work for where I used it.
I took the blower off my rx470 and put the cooler from my old Radeon270x on it, worked a dream, so quiet!
I got the RTX 2080 Ti EVGA Black which is one of the cheapest, if not the cheapest, RTX 2080 Ti. Threw on a waterblock on it in my custom loop and now it boosts to 2000-2085 MHz steady in game. Peak temp only around 57 degrees F. Got it for $1200 CAD on Kijiji barely used. Very happy with the performance now that I threw a waterblock on it. Prob would benefit your card greatly too...
Also with blower cards... Get some Intake fans. Less exhaust. (if you have watercooled CPU, use ONLY the radiator/fans as exhaust) And close case vents!
The more possitive pressure you get in the case, the better it is with the blower cards. They make less noise as well. Not working so hard to pull in air needed for the high pressure over the heatsink within the cover. You also get less dust.
With "open cooler" cards, like this Accelero, you need more exhaust, or it will just heat up the inside of the case
Timmy Joe! I have also a story about these Accelero coolers from Arctic cooling. They are actually amazingly good for even descent price. But that's not the story. I had a Accelero Extreme III, which was dual fan and also with installable backplate. But that backplate appeared a problem. My motherboard had a PCIE X16 slot as the first slot, and that why, the backplate heatsink was bumping into ram. Eventually, i did not notice, but i did break off one diode on the RAM module because of the spacing problems. Got to exchange RAM module. Luckly they did exchange it. So in the end, i did not use the backplate. I had Club 3D Radeon HD7970 Royal King or Queen. Basically the strongest factory overclocked HD7970. Stock cooler was loud AF, that's why i was searching for aftermarket coolet. After 3 or 4 year use, my HD7970 eventually died. Voltake regulators near the MODFETs just burned. Probably, reasons was not using the backplate. But.... Yeah... I could not really! XD
thanks to right to repair, taking stuff apart doesn't void the warranty even though some companies still put the little stickers on there.
You can get a heatsink from an dead AIB model that is compatible with that PCB if you a cleaner look.
Will be no RGB or some stuff like that but it'll still be a 2080Ti in it heart anyway.
I've been doing some similar stuff with some 960. Jerryrigged a Windforce model with a almost brand new cooler from a 960 G1 (RMA Dead card prolly)
Re-watching the whole series about this 2080 ti fix in 2021 and still entertained.
"Ugly as all sin," is the best way to describe it. Thank you for posting this. Had the same issue, and your solution worked!
I have done 4 cards with the Arctic Accelero 3 and the contact cement heatsinks require at least 24 hours to set properly. So you have to go without the card for a day. Well worth the wait. None of the cards could get past 45°C. I found that higher temps mean bad case airflow.
I would also mention that I crank the Arctic fans to max before any real loads. Stress tests, games, and such
I got an idea: modify the blower by cutting out air holes in key places and then put one of those pivoting-on-a-stick case fans pointed right at the air holes, could be a good blower mod
According to their website, the Accelero Xtreme IV: Revision 02 also happens to be compatible with the Titan RTX, which makes sense when we consider that the board has the same dimensions as the 2080 Ti and and thus would fit without issues; what I don't know is how well it will cool the Titan RTX when compared to the Founders Edition cooler, and this would definitely be a nice experiment to touch at some point soon, especially if it's compared with all the other TU102 Coolers that are out there, it might not win against other Third Party coolers but I am sure it'll still be ideal for many users on a budget who don't want to stick with the Founders Edition cooler and wonder what might be the cheapest option with the most effectiveness. (:
You can even use it with liquid metal. Did that on my 1080 and it never got over 50° C! It stains the copper but thats about it :)
Best thing about doing this is imagining people's reactions when looking at the ranking and seeing 'Dell Corporation NVIDIA XXX' for the GPU
The Morpheus ii cooler is great for this too. I had a Asus blower 1080ti and I kept the vrm and memory front plate and put the Morpheus with 2 corsair ml120 fans on them. It looks pretty sweet and with an undervolt at stock clocks have a 36 degree difference in temps. Now I don't pass 48 and I'm on max GPU boost 1911 at .899v
Aftermarket coolers or water locks on blower cards is a must if you have the room
Been very tempted to try this cooler on my EVGA 2080Ti Black. even 190+ core it gets about 77-80C, but this would be MUCH quieter. Other than noise, the real issue is the 112% power limit, can't do a whole lot with lower temps.
always wondered if those little heatsinks on the Accelero 3 could fall someday, but have mine on a gtx970 for 3 years now and no issues at all. it still rocks cool and quiet. and that rtx 2080 ti will rock too . -20ºC and - 2000 RPM its a win.
the anti sag bracket has a second function as a direct cooling fan bracket slap some arctic air pressure fans on the side of it and overclock it further O_O!
"I've been playing the new call of duty lately"
Oh you've been playing call of duty mobile???
mw r is newer than mobile
@@PotatoKingHvH I'm just kidding holy fucking shat
@Izan TM I was in the mood to nit pick 😂
You should definitely try NZXT KRAKEN G12 on it.
The way you vlog it’s very authentic and interesting keep it up! Subbed!
You’ve had the best uploads lately.
When it comes to custom air cooling your GPU, I am all for the Rajintek Morpheus 2 cooler. Yes it is overall a bit more exspensive, but you can use 120mm fans of your choice and when one dies, go to a market and just buy a replacement. All fixed fans will cause more effort to be replaced and are barely as good as some 20$ fans.
Yes, it is all together ugly as hell, but very effective cooling and very silent (when you get the right fans) and it is still far cheaper than a custom loop with a waterblock for your CPU and GPU.
In the United States it is illegal for those warranty void if removed stickers.
It will not void your warranty from defects. Now damage, that is a different story...
Good content!
get the Arctic Accelero III, it comes with VRM heatsinks, same fan, same gpu heatsink, no backplate (which helps with compatibility),
Best cooling solution for a GPU is to have the side panel off and a regular 2kw fan set on full blasting into the side of the case...
I would've liked to see just how low the temperatures could get if you were willing to allow more noise, aka crank the fan.
Especially the noise levels and thermals at 100% fan speed.
I have Accelero 2 fan cooler on my GTX 1070.Since it doesn't fit it is mounted without the backplate and it works fine more than a year now
I know this videos over a year old but I will say for anyone attempting that the Extreme IV isn't made for the 20 and 30 series cards. They only support up to the 10 series GPUs.
Now start flashing bios with higher power limit to it for better score. For Non-A chip I recommend the Palit 2080Ti 310W bios, check TPU bios collections.
Inno 3D x2 makes a card with a heatsink on the front of the card that you can keep on there so all critical components get cooled. Just remove the original fans and replace it with a Arctic accelero extreme 3 or 4. Works much better than even a custom loop!
I'm really happy everything is going good for you Timmy Joe. I wish for your sake you had sent it back but it turned out to make a good series. Now, if my 2070 would get back to me all would be warm and fuzzy.
There are thermal temperature solutions that you just point it at the vrms & memory and it will tell you what the temperature is
I have the accelero Xtreme III on my 1080ti, which was a asus turbo. And it's working so good. I was thinking of getting the IV instead but now i actually see that the III is better cuz it has direct VRM cooling.
I have the arctic duo and put some slapped on two 120mm fans stays nice and cool. use compound paste for the vrm' s and memory. Did not have any problems with my heat sinks coming off.
You can get the accelero 4 for around 25-35 bucks used. Got mine on a 1070 (blower) and it never reaches more than 50c in gaming at 17-22c ambient
In my case, GTX1060 mini + bigboi AA twin turbo III = gg temps
From easily hitting 84++ (even with a ghettomod 120mm strapped to the stock cooler since the old fan died) to just slightly above 60 at 40% fanspeed (almost silent in a closed case) in Furmark.
Installation is a pain in the rear, but the temps are 👌
Minimize the camera movement will be nice, my head spinning when the video move so fast.
Had an accelero xtreme 3 on my gigabyte 980ti windforce tripple cooler. went from 70c to 50c in load... Great product !
Gigabyte have stepped up their game tho. The rtx 2070 super gaming oc 3x 8gb. Is very good with temps. Around 60-63 at gaming load with a fan speed off 65% and I dont even hear it. I hear the case fans. I have 3 in the front and 1 in the back xD
@@Pand0rasAct0r_ i replaced the cooler because one of the fan died and i didnt want to rma and wait like a month... Did not regret it as i gained 20c better temps. Might be good but arctic coolers are always a good step ahead... Not the best looking coolers but the most effective for sure
@@Billy-pk6ju true but if you would consider gigabyte you should :) their new cooling designes especially for the rtx series are amazing. Do get the oc versions though not the cheaper windforce.
@@Pand0rasAct0r_ already bought a 5700XT strix. Wasn't impressed by the cooler on my 980ti as i said idk why i would *try again* haha
@@Billy-pk6ju because they seriously improved It ;p I love my 2070 super. And if you love graphics you will enjoy raytracing.
Good deals are so nice, got a new $2000 gaming computer with 9700K + 2080 for $1400 (was a return, but it was flawless)!
TH-cam: *69 views*
Me: *N O I C E*
I should have never read your fucking emails and stayed away!
NOOOOOICE
3:00 Music is The Bayou by Tigerblood Jewel
I have a accelero mono plus, i have not had the glued on heat syncs fall off, but i only have them on the memory chips, the VRM had a small dedicated heat sync so i left that on it, i spread the glue stuff all over the bottom of the heat syncs in a nice thin layer and stuck them on
Shoot I did not not expect -20+ degrees. Never even heard of Accelero. Impressed.
Reminds me of the time i finally got all my lawn mowing cash to buy my first video card, the agp sapphire 1950x. it thermal throttle and was absolute crap. i cried like the kid i was because all my money was in it. then i got a stupid aftermarket cooler which did not cool the power part and only the core. then i had to glue a heatsink to the back, cut a hole in my case and they mount a 120mm fan blowing directly at or it would shutdown the pc. later i could finally get a job and saved 2 month paychecks and got a new pc with a r9 270x and i had that for a long time.
I say you keep using the blower but use some liquid metal thermal compound instead, should improve temps by a bit
I ran an accelero cooler on my 1080ti. Really liked it and it worked well on my z370 board. When I switched to an Asus TuF B550, that giant heat sink backplate was hitting my ram. Really frustrating
Regarding your comment about heatsinks with thermal adhesive falling off... I used this thermal glue to attach heatsinks onto my 1080Ti almost a year ago and they havent budged. Where as when i used to buy the accelero coolers that came small heatsinks that had pre applied thermal tape that were ready to stick on - those fell off every few months due to the heat.
You need to give the thermal adhesive/glue at least 1hr to cure at the least or 3 if you want to be 100% safe so maybe you were rushing and didnt give it enough time.
----
Also no heatsinks on the VRMs cant be a good idea.
Hey TJ. I have an Alienware Aurora r8 and it came with a blower 2080. It is obnoxious when it heats up and hovers around 83c. Due to my case size I ordered the accelero twin ii. Do you think this would be suitable or should I just return it before I try?
I have an EVGA RTX 2080 Blower and the Accellero 3 is what I used. After fiddling with it......worth every penny. I got the 2080 for $450 lightly used.
you have all three of those fans blowing onto the vrm with the aftermarket. and only one fan pulling all the heat from the cpu and vrm with the stock. even if it is direct contact it would be way worse. all that heat from the cpu is going directly over to the vrm because the fan isnt enough to cool the heatsink, before it gets that far. that card running at stock and almost hitting 90 should have been the first clue there timmy boy lol. with a card that expensive, i wouldnt care what it looked like. it is going to be number one for a long time or close to it so longevity is a must.
personally if i was going to use accelero i would use the backplate heatsink and memory and VRM heatsinks but i do wish they would make an all black version of it
I have rtx 2080ti turbo (blower) set on custom curve fan, minimal at 50% , at max usage 80%, it's noisy, yes but it goes up to 2070mhz and stays at 65c max ;)
OC it by 180 mhz on core and 450 mhz on memory. Running no problem :)
I plan to get water-cooling in the future :)
For now I'm glad I bought it :)
i believe the memory controller is what really needs the cooling, not the gddr memory on the 5700 cards, air flow should be enough for the memory
What the hell man, you act like -20 C is nothing while that is amazing, like the card being silent instead of vacuum-cleaner is no big deal instead of amazing, yes it's big but it's functional - as it should be, a smaller surface would get itself hot instead of cooling from ~1h of gaming, so it would be pointless. The anti-sag thing can have an extra fan mounted, besides it should be mounted anyway since it works so the card doesn't sag, and you could put a cooler to blow above the card through those fins, who cares about looks when you can get this much functionality without water/liquid cooling or other exotic solutions! Arctic as usual rocks! Thank you for the video! It needed to be done.
I been using the Accelero Xtreme IV for years now and I am happy to say that I never had a problem with it ... it keeps my AMD GPU(s) Kool and Silent ... one thing, the back plate is Humongous, in some of the motherboards I bought through the years, I had to move the GPU to the 2ry 16x PCI-E slot, as the back fins kept hitting the memory
Give the Raijintek Morpheus II a try. It comes with a bunch of heatsinks for the VRM and VRAM, like the Accelero III, but with thermal tape instead of the nasty cement stuff. I've had zero problems with them coming off on my 1080Ti. Just make sure to wipe off any grease (from thermal pads) that might be on the VRM and memory modules before attaching the heatsinks.
Also, it doesn't come with fans, so you can put some Noctuas on it and have a super quiet card.
Damn when you ripped that poor card out of the case in the beginning it hurt me a bit.
Just wanted to write a little message and give you a big thumbs up. Love the content and the enthusiasm you have in your videos. So glad I found your channel! Keep up the amazing content.
you need to use small stick on heatsinks for the ram and vrms and stuff when using the artic cooler. Can get an assortment of them on amazon for like 10$. Have one on a gtx 1080 fe, with a 190 mhz core offset it wont hit more than 56c using the artic 4. Just have to know what you are doing to make them work but when they work, THEY WORK
Found your channel today and i like every video you make, I love your energy. Keep it up!
Never had problems with the heatfins glued, i had a R9 290
No temp sensor on the memory and it's great just cause it runs? Maybe it's just those vram chips are slowly turning to silicon slag perma-melted to the pwb and you don't know it. Yet. But great review...it is nice to know where the limitation of that after market GPU cooler comes from.
I have a Gigabyte R9 390 Gaming G1 that I put an accelero IV on and it made a tremendous difference. Went from about 95c and a hurricane to keep it from 100c down to 58-60c with fans around 70% just to keep good airflow on the VRMs/Memory. I wish they had a good method for direct cooling memory and VRMs with that thing as ugly as it is. 👍
Thumbs up for the cheering video but why didnt you try to put the fan curve on the accelero ? (like instructed in the manual) an also see higher frequencies. Nvidia Boost works this way it checks temps and if could lower them more would result in higher clocks for the Accelero.
Been waiting for this one
Was hoping for this vid as I catch up on your videos. Keep it up.