Thank you for posting!..I am learning about all this electrical RV stuff because I just bought a used 2004 Newmar Motorhome with two air conditioners and no inverter. I can turn a wrench but am not a plumber or electrician, so this info was very helpful about how the AC unit will typically run at 14amps to start, etc, considerations when setting up an inverter station, lithium vs. lead acid, etc. I have subscribed to your channel. Keep the informative videos coming! I like your no-nonsense approach and the fact that u are not always trying to hawk an RV product like some other channels..U keep doing videos like this and your channel will grow quickly...
I run both my motorhome's A/Cs off a single battery. It's a big 48v battery that I made myself out of 16, 320ah prismatic cells connected in series. During the day, when the sun is shining, I can run both my 14.5k btu soft start equipped rooftop A/C and my 12k btu mini split heat pump through a 5,000w all-in-one inverter/charger/charge controller all day long off our solar/battery system. When the sun goes down, my single battery will run our high efficiency EG-4 28.5 seer-2 heat pump all night long in either heating or cooling mode using no more than 1/3rd of the battery's capacity. The price of the raw cells, a 200A smart BMS, flexible bus bars, compression fixture and aluminum angle to house it and secure it in place was under $1,900. This 16.38 Kwh do-it-yourself battery has the equivalent capacity of $12,000 worth of Battleborn batteries or 2, 24v 300ah "The Beast" Big Beard batteries. Of course, you need a $50 adjustable power supply to top balance the cells, plus the time and knowledge to assemble the components. It will lack advanced features like remote internal monitoring and self-heating, (though you could add these features if needed.) However, the BMS will provide cold-temp charge protection, high-temp, over-charge protection and balancing. Still if you're looking for a bare-bones, yet safe LiFePo-4 battery that will last 4-6,000+ cycles, you can't beat the price per kwh of building one yourself - especially if you have more time than money like us, or simply want the highest battery capacity you can get on a limited budget.
So, I am kinda confused, if I and others am off grid, we are usually in a BLM area with no other campers that are close, not in any campground or state park surrounded by other campers. I do understand the practical application in an urban area RV part which does have their rules and regulations which are desperately needed. Thank you for the information, keep them coming.
I assume you’re talking about generator use? If you’re in an area where you can run it all day long feel free. However, having the ability to source electricity from the sun is more peaceful.
While commonly available in the West, BLM land is not common east of the Rockies - so boondocking in the eastern 2/3 of the country usually involves some sort of state park, Harvest Host, etc. where restrictions are in place.
Hey Todd! Quick question. I have a 2018 Airstream 27FBQ with two 100 Ah AGM batteries. I do have a charge controller that is built to work with lithium batteries. If all I want to do is change to one of your 280 Ah batteries, do I need to make any other electrical changes on the trailer? All I am looking to do is get more time and reliability and less weight out of my batteries. Perhaps I will enlarge my solar bank at a later time. Thanks so much!
Hi! I’m hoping someone can help me I’m looking to do mobile grooming in my colmen 17r and would love to not have to work with a generator. I need to run a high vacuity dryer Power 1800 w max Input 120v 60Hz 17A max, I need my plug ins for my calipers, charging stations, hot water. I also may need ac or to power my electric fire place from time to time and of course my lights. Any advice?
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😂 love 2:05 Todd says video here. Points to his head! You're the best!
very nice video sir
Thank you for posting!..I am learning about all this electrical RV stuff because I just bought a used 2004 Newmar Motorhome with two air conditioners and no inverter. I can turn a wrench but am not a plumber or electrician, so this info was very helpful about how the AC unit will typically run at 14amps to start, etc, considerations when setting up an inverter station, lithium vs. lead acid, etc. I have subscribed to your channel. Keep the informative videos coming! I like your no-nonsense approach and the fact that u are not always trying to hawk an RV product like some other channels..U keep doing videos like this and your channel will grow quickly...
I run both my motorhome's A/Cs off a single battery. It's a big 48v battery that I made myself out of 16, 320ah prismatic cells connected in series. During the day, when the sun is shining, I can run both my 14.5k btu soft start equipped rooftop A/C and my 12k btu mini split heat pump through a 5,000w all-in-one inverter/charger/charge controller all day long off our solar/battery system. When the sun goes down, my single battery will run our high efficiency EG-4 28.5 seer-2 heat pump all night long in either heating or cooling mode using no more than 1/3rd of the battery's capacity. The price of the raw cells, a 200A smart BMS, flexible bus bars, compression fixture and aluminum angle to house it and secure it in place was under $1,900. This 16.38 Kwh do-it-yourself battery has the equivalent capacity of $12,000 worth of Battleborn batteries or 2, 24v 300ah "The Beast" Big Beard batteries.
Of course, you need a $50 adjustable power supply to top balance the cells, plus the time and knowledge to assemble the components. It will lack advanced features like remote internal monitoring and self-heating, (though you could add these features if needed.) However, the BMS will provide cold-temp charge protection, high-temp, over-charge protection and balancing. Still if you're looking for a bare-bones, yet safe LiFePo-4 battery that will last 4-6,000+ cycles, you can't beat the price per kwh of building one yourself - especially if you have more time than money like us, or simply want the highest battery capacity you can get on a limited budget.
So, I am kinda confused, if I and others am off grid, we are usually in a BLM area with no other campers that are close, not in any campground or state park surrounded by other campers. I do understand the practical application in an urban area RV part which does have their rules and regulations which are desperately needed. Thank you for the information, keep them coming.
I assume you’re talking about generator use? If you’re in an area where you can run it all day long feel free. However, having the ability to source electricity from the sun is more peaceful.
While commonly available in the West, BLM land is not common east of the Rockies - so boondocking in the eastern 2/3 of the country usually involves some sort of state park, Harvest Host, etc. where restrictions are in place.
Hey Todd! Quick question. I have a 2018 Airstream 27FBQ with two 100 Ah AGM batteries. I do have a charge controller that is built to work with lithium batteries. If all I want to do is change to one of your 280 Ah batteries, do I need to make any other electrical changes on the trailer? All I am looking to do is get more time and reliability and less weight out of my batteries. Perhaps I will enlarge my solar bank at a later time. Thanks so much!
most vans are 12 volt systems
Hi! I’m hoping someone can help me I’m looking to do mobile grooming in my colmen 17r and would love to not have to work with a generator. I need to run a high vacuity dryer Power 1800 w max
Input 120v 60Hz 17A max, I need my plug ins for my calipers, charging stations, hot water. I also may need ac or to power my electric fire place from time to time and of course my lights. Any advice?