Been doing solar for 10yrs and this is the best video I have seen to explain how batteries charge and discharge, sending everyone that ask to your video Great JOB!!!!!!!!!!!!
I bought four 300 AH batteries. Their manual recommended the connection you showed in the second setup. I contacted them and suggested they used the setup you had in the third setup. They changed their manual to reflect the change. I suspected the busbar would also induce a difference between each battery. Thank you for demonstrating the current draw from each battery. It helps get the point across.
In my opinion setup 2 and 3 are equally. But his test wasn't optimal. He already started with unevenly charged batteries and he should have changed them to 100% after each test. Of course you have small balancing currents and slightly uneven discharge currents in setup 2 right after the test in setup 1.
@@SpatteL19 Nigel Calder explains it in the youtube video. Search for - The BEST way to Parallel Batteries on a Boat | Ask The Expert with NIGEL CALDER
I have never tested it. Although at my bus bar I have all connections on one stud together. I have always figured this “in my mind” to make a better path 🤔. Nice video, I’ve never seen anyone that even has came close to this idea. Thanks for not making me feel stupid or waist full.
This Bus Bar strategy has been the standard for at least, the past 20 years. What are talking about ... Nobody even came close to this idea? Have been living under a rock for the past 2 decades?
@@MrSummitville your aggressive reply is uncalled for. YOU misunderstood what he is saying and in your arrogance got bent out of shape. Scooter said that he put ALL of his terminals on ONE stud and is glad that you verified his suspicions by SHOWING that the busbar DOES in fact alter things by placing the positive in the central position. He was saying that he had not seen anyone place ALL on one terminal with a busbar which is counterintuitive to be sure. True Scooter poorly worded his comment but he is in need of an apology. He well may have been living under a rock, but at least he had power !
@@MrSummitville you simply are so myopic that you have no idea what this guy said and that he was in fact agreeing with you and thanking you for confirming his own "in my mind" which he had not found validation for anywhere else. I won't even mention your bad choice in title of your video which is, as others have mentioned very misleading. You may or may not have valid knowledge but you most certainly DO NOT have the capacity to pass any knowledge on is a reasonable manner. There are more than a few detrimental comments here. Jumping down someone's throat for saying "ground" instead of negative is also over the top. You must be a real fun guy at a perty
@@MrSummitvillewhat an arrogant know it all you are. You should really learn how to talk to people with respect. I bet the people that deal with you on a daily basis can't stand your crappy attitude and obnoxious way of talking. You need Jesus in your life 🙏
I like how you showed good, better, and best setups. This video is also a good demonstration of why it makes sense to go with higher voltage configurations, whenever possible. There will be less total drift across the cells, if they are all managed by a single BMS. If your video showed 4 batteries in parallel, and then showed those same 4 batteries in series, for 48 volts, you could demonstrate how that configuration results in even less drift than the bus bar connection you used.
Thanks. Yes a lot of us from the rv world are not initially knowledgeable. I love the 2 I bought from you for my rv. As noted...one of my batteries charges and discharges a bit faster...likely a byproduct of thor not running exactly the same lengths or it could be the busbar setup. It has not been a problem as they will equalize in normal use. Another thing you can let the rv folks know about is that lots of the stock battery setups were really undersized for the load. A 3000 watt inverter that can surge needs batteries that can support heavy load. My thor setup was a good example. The 100 batteries from the factory really didn't match up with my load ( ac running...other loads) and thus constantly put the batteries uner stress...sometimes in hot weather to the point of their bms shutting down. Your batteries support the load with ease....and you were very helpful with advice in the bms settings.
Been in the electronics field for some 50 years now, amateur solar for 15-20 years and i learned something new today. Thanks for this video and greetings from Jamaica.
if you make a round busbar you can make t even better but you need a super beautiful terminal kind to go in center of the round busbars!!!! would love to se terminals for equal distribution !! kEEP the good work even half plannet away i love get educated and entertained from your videos!!! greetings from greece
1 terminal won't be enough, they should make one with like 3 grouped together so you can feed power from solar charger, inverter, and alternator. a Circle with 3 botls in middle and 5-6 bolts around it.
@@FoxfriedI agree with you completely. Separate bus bars going into the main bus bars ? See my comments for some more thoughts on the matter. We'll figure something out here... 😃
Subbed and liked. Glad YT algo did its job. I've been a solar DIY'er for about 5 years and found this to be a great visual for what I've been trying to explain to people for years. Thanks!!!
AMAZING how clear this showed various setups and their respective effect on the batteries. I've got 3 lithium batteries and was looking for best practices on wiring them. Thanks, and well done!
I have a 6 position busbar rated for 300 amps. The center 2 positions are occupied by the inverter and solar charge controller, the 4 outer (2 on either side) have 4 batteries with equal length cables and it seems pretty balanced in operation. I use Anderson connectors on them and have MRBF fuses on each battery.
We are working on a bus bar it is shaped like a hexagon, rated for 500 amps, the center point will be for the load and 6 outer points for the feed, should be out sometime next year.
You should have charged the batteries to 100% before each test. Of course you have small balancing currents between the batteries and slightly uneven loads in setup 2 and 3 after the test of setup 1.
Doing the same thing with four batteries,I think putting 00 gauge cable and fully prepped lugs would change the outcome in a more even way in the diagonal type layout,resistance is the main cause of in balance,what are you thoughts,and thankyou for the vid.
The point he is trying to make is the bys bar is pulling both positive and negative off batt 1 isntead of how it was connected in example 2 with the neg on battery 3 if he did that setup on the bus bar he would get even closer numbers.@@MrSummitville
Thank you sir and you are correct with example 3. In addition you can make the make the battery cable closest to the inverter cable on the buss bar a little longer then you will have equal power distribution. By the way I really love your battery kits I just wish that I could afford them. I am disabled and unable to work anymore so I live on a very fixed income but if I ever come into a lot of money then I will buy 4 of them for my 1967 GM TDH-4519 city transit bus that I live in full-time in the high desert of New Mexico unless there is any way you can help me or we can help each other
Glad to see the use of busbars, yes! But those busbars look teensy, might be why you're still seeing differences between the batteries. Maybe they're heftier than they look ... or maybe not. (The ones I use are probably three times that size.)
In model 3: Attaching the negative cable from the inverter at the opposite end of the busbar (nearest to battery 3 connection), would likely lead to slightly improved balance in the draw.
This is really a very nice video which proved that the bus bar solution is the best. what I don’t understand is: when using the bus bar solution why the second battery still has the lowest load although the second one is closer to the inverter than the third one.
Thanks for a very educational video. I am trying to learn the effects and value of parallel versus series connections and this video did the job for parallel. Do you have a series connection study?
I have three brand new EcoWorthy Batteries. They are 12.8v, however 1 is 280ah and I expanded with two identical 100ah versions. Have I screwed up by having A mixed bag as far as capacity is concerned? Jeff Your video was great, btw.
Ok if you increase the length of the cable from the battery that has the greatest draw by say 100mm or a certain amount will this allow you to balance the 3 battery's
Try a single post for each (positive & Negative) distributed battery connection. Place the load leads between battery leads. You should see an event better balance on charge / discharge. Busbar will have some distribution issues.
I love your video, this is extremely helpful for me as I’m setting up a 8S4P right now. The question is instead of a bus bar if you want them equally distant why don’t you just have one post where they’re all connected together? A single post and stack up all the connections that way they’re all equidistant?
I really liked your video. Would you gain much if you connected the black (negative) cable to the stud going to the 3rd battery on the bus bar arrangement?
A few things I noticed. One, the batteries were not fully charged or evenly charged. Second, the presenter said he would set the heater to 90 F, but the video showed 89 then 86. Wouldn't that affect the readings and results? Btw, with the charger, how is it connected to the batteries and inverter, not to metion, the busbars?
Could uou tell the nsme of that device that reads how many Amps are pulled from each of the three batteries, with diffrrent connection.... , and how is it connected to each battery. Thanks. Nice video.
These batteries have a Bluetooth module built in. The device is a tablet that connects to each battery via bluetooth and displays those values. You can also use your smartphone after downloading the app.
I really want to buy US made. I like ur batteries, but need a nice % off inspiration. All your competitors are doing it. Help us shop US confidently! Thanks!!
Hook up batteries to where it’s like one big battery then I draws from it as one I got 4 in parallel and they are charging and discharging evenly as one
Ive only seen a few of setups these in person in an RV, that said the way it was setup they had the battery charger on the same post in the bus-bar that was going to the inverter, this was years ago and the batteries were not lithium, but agm's, the system was not solar but more of a backup system. Curious if that setup was correct.
Make triangular shaped bass bars where all connection points from all batteries will have approximately the same distance to the two connections for the solar charger and for the inverter on the opposite corner.
Ok so will AGM lead be okay like the first set up? For two batteries? My boat has 2 battery system. Factory wired it parallel but battery (1 ) & (2) are 5 ft away from each other. The load is plugged into battery 1 like your first set up. Battery (2) is 5 ft away located in the back of the boat with just the Pos & Neg cable ran to it from battery 1 😅. Neg to neg pos to pos. Long cable. Should i just add a bus bar to it at this point so it pulls from each end? Draining & charging it equally as 1?
AGM will charge each other much better in parallel because they have a more sloped charge curve. But if possible use option 2. 1 should only be used if you are drawing low amps (under 10).
This is why you don't use 3 batteries. You don't need bus bars, and you get perfect balance, if the number of batteries are determined by geometric sequence. (1,2,4,8,16, etc.)
I'm a retired electrician did some DC work it's all about balance of these batteries,I'm going with 48 volt hybrid used cheaper then buying these solar types batterys that's the big thing is storage of the power from your panals .I like your system.
FYI: You should never have the output leads coming off the end battery of a parallel setup. Ground should be on the opposite side of the battery stack from positive, unless buss-bars are used.
BTW this shows some of the inside big batteries cells and why when full loaded the cells voltage drifts away and needs balancing!!! never forget cells are independent batteries in series and some of them are in center and others act as poles!!! !!!! made my run and install the active balancer to my pack
@@dominus6695 Maybe you do not understand English? I said and I will repeat ... *Nothing* in this video showed that individual cells need balancing". So, which video are you talking about? Give me the @time in this video where "... logic explains by extension ...". Oh wait, it did *not* happen ...
@@MrSummitville it shows how resistance causes a voltage drop and differences in charge/discharge. So it does not show it directly, but it shows the effect of different cable lenghts and resistances. Therefore his comment. hahaha
A custom made circular bus bar ? A big flat washer with battery lug holes on the outside and a big hole in the middle for the input/output ? But with just a standard bus bar mount the two anode/cathode wires of the four on top of each other with the charger/load wires in the middle ?...🌩 ⚡️
Question: I have four lithium batteries (12v/100ah). I have a bus bar like yours (four poles). Do I occupy all four poles with the four batteries, then add the inverter to one of the used poles? (So, the inverter would share a bus bar pole with one of the batteries.) Would that be bad practice? Thanks
He connected it (via clamps) to the terminals sticking off the front of the inverter. The charger is the little black box on the right, the inverter is the larger blue one underneath the charger.
Nice video, well done. However I have a question, in the busbar configuration could I further reduce the current differences by adjusting the cable lengths for two of the batteries, say battery 1 and 2, to take into account the current path length through the busbar?
That first battery taking the load more than the others . I hook up the power to one of my battery's and the ground on the other to keep the current and load the same . I do the same with Power Inverter too
This would not make any difference as the third battery is wired the same way you could say in this setup that the order of the batteries are 3,2,1. Thanks
@@sfkenergy Have you ever heard current sharing and also internal resistance from the battery itself this would make significantly affects the performance. The 3rd battery would probably the first be charged up and also the first one to take the discharge.
So would it be fair to assume that for a 2 battery setup, probly best to go with a piggy back setup with positive and negative going off different batteries?
The one flaw in your setup is you should have fusing to each battery either at the battery or the busbar connection. Fuse rating at 150% of anticipated load. This prevents failure due to one of the batteries internally shorting and the other batteries delivering 10XC (C = battery capacity) current!! In your setup 60 to 80 amp fuses would be suggested.....
Thanks for your reply, this was meant to be a demonstration real world installs will use breakers and or fuses as needed. SFK batteries have internal shunts and can monitor amps which means they can be set to disable output at a definable output by the user in the app as well.
I'm completely stumped as to why no one is commenting on wire Guage. I'm seeing all kinds of wire used across the internet and no one seems to care but people say it's important... but leave it out of every tutorial. I have 3 12v 200ah batteries to be run in parallel. I was just going run a bolt and nut through the 3 red to the red trunk, and the 3 black to the black trunk. Wouldn't this be better than a bar? I'm stuck on wire size... I'm also stuck on, do i need a fuse and what size to my 3000w inverter. I have a bunch of 8awg and some 4/0. Was going to 8awg the bank and 4/0 the trunk, with a 100a fuse, although i might up it to 200a. Thoughts? In case anyone cares: 2 x 60v 7ish amp solar panels, 300w? To controller run in parallel. So 60v 15a for 600 watts. To meet 100/50 mppt. 3 x 12v 200ah sla bats run in parallel(haven't done this yet, but planning to) on 8 awg wire to stud/ trunk. Trunk would be a fused 4/0 to inverter. All lines would be as close to same length respective to their run. Although I feel like a fuse would mess up one leg on the trunk... something else i don't see anyone addressing. Any help appreciated
Could you have the cable for the inverter in the middle of the three cables on the busbar coming from the batteries? In other words could you connect the inverter to the middle lug on the busbar? Pause at 10:50 on the video
Yes that would make it a bit better but I think as long as the amp difference is under 10 amps it should balance out easily when you fully charge. The main goal is to avoid the large amp differences of 30+ and as long as you do this you should be good to go.
@@sfkenergy Its just something i noticed in the video. I seen other videos where there was more than four batteries and the cables from the batteries were taken from the middle of the bank to the inverter. Unfortunately comments were disabled in the videos I saw. I wonder why?
I have the same setup with everything on bus bars but with two batteries. I want to connect a shunt but I don't know exactly where to wire it because the bus bars are throwing me off. If someone would enlighten me I'd appreciate it.
When the cables are all the same length/size, it is assumed that the resistance would be equal. Proximity to each battery connection on the busbar is the most likely culprit in this demonstration. Still one or two amp differential is inconsequential. Greater than 10 amp differential will cause disparity in rate of degradation and lifespan of each battery in a parallel setup.
I have 3 SOK batteries and the app will only show 1 battery at a time, that's pretty useful the way that your app shows all 3 batteries at the same time
I think batteries can be connected in series but not with this inverter. I was saying what will happen if you connect them in series , each of the batteries will have different voltage
I eliminate the buss bar alltogther, and place all in to one line, and using a copper switch to conected to a fuse, then conneteced to a main. it is all in a box this is what I did with even my agms, and I do the exact same set up with my solar array.. becasue the intersting thing, is the soilar arrays, are the exact same thing like ones batteries. .I jsut make sure that I am not over drawing what my lines can handle, I also tap my lines directly in to the charge controller from breaker to the battery bank. My charge controler has fuses in it aswell, they seem to be more touchy than the breakers. My newer system has a build in breaker and just needs a connect disconnet switch. they are starting to make these units idiot proof. I just make sure everything is tight.
Question. i got hold of 57 free batteries of 6volt 4,5Ah NiMH type of batterys .. Thats a lot of batteries.. i wish to make a giant powerbank in parallel connection .. Is there something i have to remeber? ... do i need thicker cables then the ones that already are on the batteries? how is it when i charge that many batteries in parallell ? do i need a super charger? or just use a normal charger that will just take much longer time? I also got a hold on 43 of 4 cells NiCd batteries with a voltage of 4,8 and they have 4,5Ah -- planned to make a 2nd powerpack with those. All batteries are only 3 years old and they are fully functional.. they had to be replaced because of strict rules on batteries that feed emergency light on ship .. they get replaced every 3 years even the law say 5 years.. guess shipping company just want to make sure their ok .. they have been maintain charged trough the years they been active.. and they only sometimes get used on test of the emergency light onboard.
Been doing solar for 10yrs and this is the best video I have seen to explain how batteries charge and discharge, sending everyone that ask to your video Great JOB!!!!!!!!!!!!
I bought four 300 AH batteries. Their manual recommended the connection you showed in the second setup. I contacted them and suggested they used the setup you had in the third setup. They changed their manual to reflect the change. I suspected the busbar would also induce a difference between each battery.
Thank you for demonstrating the current draw from each battery. It helps get the point across.
In my opinion setup 2 and 3 are equally.
But his test wasn't optimal. He already started with unevenly charged batteries and he should have changed them to 100% after each test.
Of course you have small balancing currents and slightly uneven discharge currents in setup 2 right after the test in setup 1.
@@SpatteL19 Nigel Calder explains it in the youtube video. Search for - The BEST way to Parallel Batteries on a Boat | Ask The Expert with NIGEL CALDER
bus bar should be a circle, equal distance to all battery connectors
I have never tested it. Although at my bus bar I have all connections on one stud together. I have always figured this “in my mind” to make a better path 🤔. Nice video, I’ve never seen anyone that even has came close to this idea. Thanks for not making me feel stupid or waist full.
This Bus Bar strategy has been the standard for at least, the past 20 years. What are talking about ... Nobody even came close to this idea? Have been living under a rock for the past 2 decades?
@@MrSummitville your aggressive reply is uncalled for. YOU misunderstood what he is saying and in your arrogance got bent out of shape. Scooter said that he put ALL of his terminals on ONE stud and is glad that you verified his suspicions by SHOWING that the busbar DOES in fact alter things by placing the positive in the central position. He was saying that he had not seen anyone place ALL on one terminal with a busbar which is counterintuitive to be sure. True Scooter poorly worded his comment but he is in need of an apology. He well may have been living under a rock, but at least he had power !
@@paulbunion6233 No, I did not get bent out shape. I stated facts. Do facts upset you? Why are you so sensitive? Poor Baby, do you need your pacifier?
@@MrSummitville you simply are so myopic that you have no idea what this guy said and that he was in fact agreeing with you and thanking you for confirming his own "in my mind" which he had not found validation for anywhere else. I won't even mention your bad choice in title of your video which is, as others have mentioned very misleading. You may or may not have valid knowledge but you most certainly DO NOT have the capacity to pass any knowledge on is a reasonable manner. There are more than a few detrimental comments here. Jumping down someone's throat for saying "ground" instead of negative is also over the top. You must be a real fun guy at a perty
@@MrSummitvillewhat an arrogant know it all you are. You should really learn how to talk to people with respect. I bet the people that deal with you on a daily basis can't stand your crappy attitude and obnoxious way of talking. You need Jesus in your life 🙏
I like how you showed good, better, and best setups. This video is also a good demonstration of why it makes sense to go with higher voltage configurations, whenever possible. There will be less total drift across the cells, if they are all managed by a single BMS. If your video showed 4 batteries in parallel, and then showed those same 4 batteries in series, for 48 volts, you could demonstrate how that configuration results in even less drift than the bus bar connection you used.
Agreed, i will soon by upgrading from 12v to 48v.
Also, Busbars make it very easy to remove one battery from the bank if needed.
Thanks. Yes a lot of us from the rv world are not initially knowledgeable. I love the 2 I bought from you for my rv. As noted...one of my batteries charges and discharges a bit faster...likely a byproduct of thor not running exactly the same lengths or it could be the busbar setup. It has not been a problem as they will equalize in normal use. Another thing you can let the rv folks know about is that lots of the stock battery setups were really undersized for the load. A 3000 watt inverter that can surge needs batteries that can support heavy load. My thor setup was a good example. The 100 batteries from the factory really didn't match up with my load ( ac running...other loads) and thus constantly put the batteries uner stress...sometimes in hot weather to the point of their bms shutting down. Your batteries support the load with ease....and you were very helpful with advice in the bms settings.
Been in the electronics field for some 50 years now, amateur solar for 15-20 years and i learned something new today. Thanks for this video and greetings from Jamaica.
if you make a round busbar you can make t even better but you need a super beautiful terminal kind to go in center of the round busbars!!!! would love to se terminals for equal distribution !! kEEP the good work even half plannet away i love get educated and entertained from your videos!!! greetings from greece
1 terminal won't be enough, they should make one with like 3 grouped together so you can feed power from solar charger, inverter, and alternator. a Circle with 3 botls in middle and 5-6 bolts around it.
@@FoxfriedI agree with you completely. Separate bus bars going into the main bus bars ? See my comments for some more thoughts on the matter. We'll figure something out here... 😃
Been wondering about this recently and glad I found this video explanation. Thanks 👍
Subbed and liked. Glad YT algo did its job. I've been a solar DIY'er for about 5 years and found this to be a great visual for what I've been trying to explain to people for years. Thanks!!!
AMAZING how clear this showed various setups and their respective effect on the batteries. I've got 3 lithium batteries and was looking for best practices on wiring them. Thanks, and well done!
Great video, it helped me figure out why I was having shut downs in my system. Love the buss bar!
Definitely recommend the bus bar set up. The Victron Power In has made this even easier.
I have a 6 position busbar rated for 300 amps. The center 2 positions are occupied by the inverter and solar charge controller, the 4 outer (2 on either side) have 4 batteries with equal length cables and it seems pretty balanced in operation. I use Anderson connectors on them and have MRBF fuses on each battery.
We are working on a bus bar it is shaped like a hexagon, rated for 500 amps, the center point will be for the load and 6 outer points for the feed, should be out sometime next year.
@@sfkenergyany news on the new bus bar?
You should have charged the batteries to 100% before each test.
Of course you have small balancing currents between the batteries and slightly uneven loads in setup 2 and 3 after the test of setup 1.
The ground should be at the other end
There is no "ground" wire on any battery, in this video.
Did you watch the video?
Doing the same thing with four batteries,I think putting 00 gauge cable and fully prepped lugs would change the outcome in a more even way in the diagonal type layout,resistance is the main cause of in balance,what are you thoughts,and thankyou for the vid.
Yes ground is wrong it does need to be on 3rd battery
The point he is trying to make is the bys bar is pulling both positive and negative off batt 1 isntead of how it was connected in example 2 with the neg on battery 3 if he did that setup on the bus bar he would get even closer numbers.@@MrSummitville
Thank you sir and you are correct with example 3. In addition you can make the make the battery cable closest to the inverter cable on the buss bar a little longer then you will have equal power distribution. By the way I really love your battery kits I just wish that I could afford them. I am disabled and unable to work anymore so I live on a very fixed income but if I ever come into a lot of money then I will buy 4 of them for my 1967 GM TDH-4519 city transit bus that I live in full-time in the high desert of New Mexico unless there is any way you can help me or we can help each other
Glad to see the use of busbars, yes! But those busbars look teensy, might be why you're still seeing differences between the batteries. Maybe they're heftier than they look ... or maybe not. (The ones I use are probably three times that size.)
In model 3: Attaching the negative cable from the inverter at the opposite end of the busbar (nearest to battery 3 connection), would likely lead to slightly improved balance in the draw.
Agreed.
Excellent demonstration. Nice job.
How about using a junction block post instead of the bus bar? , that way all of the connections are the same distance , just a thought.
The negative wire should go out to inverter from the last battery.
Yes we show this in configuration 2, this video was to show what happens if you don't do it this way.
So - the Title is missleading for non Professional viewers
@@simonst1308You seem confused. What is wrong with TITLE?
@@MrSummitvilleits Not the Best, but the worst way to Connect Batteries 🙃
@@simonst1308you should watch the video and not just go off the thumbnail
Great video for us beginners. I didn't see how your charger was connected.. iS THERE A WAY TO SHOW US ?? tHANKS MUCH
Alligator clips on the inverter terminals.
This is really a very nice video which proved that the bus bar solution is the best. what I don’t understand is: when using the bus bar solution why the second battery still has the lowest load although the second one is closer to the inverter than the third one.
Good video. One of the odd ball things I have seen out there is others maintaining the battery to battery connections and doing bus bars.
As if, you know what is, or is not, an "odd ball" configuration?
@@MrSummitvilleyou're really an asshole. A real POS explanation point
What size wire are you using???
Excellent! Very informative and well presented. Thank you.
Love your battery scan. Is that part of the BMS?
The app does the scan :)
Great demonstration!
The best video I've ever seen
Thanks for a very educational video. I am trying to learn the effects and value of parallel versus series connections and this video did the job for parallel. Do you have a series connection study?
I have three brand new EcoWorthy Batteries. They are 12.8v, however 1 is 280ah and I expanded with two identical 100ah versions. Have I screwed up by having A mixed bag as far as capacity is concerned?
Jeff
Your video was great, btw.
Ok if you increase the length of the cable from the battery that has the greatest draw by say 100mm or a certain amount will this allow you to balance the 3 battery's
Would this concept apply the same for four 6V AGMs in series parallel configuration?
Try a single post for each (positive & Negative) distributed battery connection. Place the load leads between battery leads. You should see an event better balance on charge / discharge. Busbar will have some distribution issues.
Thanks so much for the very clear explanation. Question? Do you recommend using fuses with this set up?
I love your video, this is extremely helpful for me as I’m setting up a 8S4P right now. The question is instead of a bus bar if you want them equally distant why don’t you just have one post where they’re all connected together? A single post and stack up all the connections that way they’re all equidistant?
Use a busbar.
very nice demonstration
Good useful information. I got what I needed.
I really liked your video. Would you gain much if you connected the black (negative) cable to the stud going to the 3rd battery on the bus bar arrangement?
Is it fair to assume that likewise the input/charge wires (Solar charger) should also be connected similarly?
yup
A few things I noticed. One, the batteries were not fully charged or evenly charged. Second, the presenter said he would set the heater to 90 F, but the video showed 89 then 86. Wouldn't that affect the readings and results? Btw, with the charger, how is it connected to the batteries and inverter, not to metion, the busbars?
Would have been good to see test 3 with the inverter supply cable in the middle of the bus bar.
can they be charged at the same time?????
Love your video. How would you connect a solar panel with one MPPT to charge the batteries? I have two Lithium's connected in Parallel.
The same principles apply to charging and discharging.
Could uou tell the nsme of that device that reads how many Amps are pulled from each of the three batteries, with diffrrent connection.... , and how is it connected to each battery. Thanks. Nice video.
These batteries have a Bluetooth module built in. The device is a tablet that connects to each battery via bluetooth and displays those values. You can also use your smartphone after downloading the app.
I really want to buy US made. I like ur batteries, but need a nice % off inspiration. All your competitors are doing it. Help us shop US confidently! Thanks!!
Seven words to make algorithms love you.
알고리즘이 당신을 사랑하게 만드는 일곱 단어.
Why didn't you connect the inverter to one of the middle two lugs to make it more even?
Wish you had included a connection to the 2nd (center) battery. Do you have a similar video for lead acid? ...
My Victron shunt states it should be connected to the negetive of the last battery? How would that work in this setup?
Is victron talking about batteries connected in *series* ? This video is about parallel connections.
A shunt should attach between your battery bank (series or parallel) and any load or charging device on the negative cable.
Hook up batteries to where it’s like one big battery then I draws from it as one I got 4 in parallel and they are charging and discharging evenly as one
Ive only seen a few of setups these in person in an RV, that said the way it was setup they had the battery charger on the same post in the bus-bar that was going to the inverter, this was years ago and the batteries were not lithium, but agm's, the system was not solar but more of a backup system. Curious if that setup was correct.
Very helpful information, thanks
Excellent vid thanx from aus.
So it is better to connect charger to the inverter than the busbar or the batteries themselves?
power out should be from the middle of the bus bar
Hi, yes that would improve it.
I also like tin coated copper, less of an issue with oxide.
Take care M.
Negative (Black) at first pole LEFT and Positive (RED) first pole RIGHT Cheers 👍
Great video!
Very informative video, thanks a lot for sharing
Thanks for this. What if you added a couple inches to the battery 1 cables? Would that even it out even more?
Don't do that. Move one of the wires, from the inverter to the busbar, to the other side of the bus bar.
What size wire are you using?
Is the app you are using on the ipad connected to the BMS in each battery via Bluetooth?
Thank you for the demonstration sir
Make triangular shaped bass bars where all connection points from all batteries will have approximately the same distance to the two connections for the solar charger and for the inverter on the opposite corner.
Ok so will AGM lead be okay like the first set up? For two batteries?
My boat has 2 battery system. Factory wired it parallel but battery (1 ) & (2) are 5 ft away from each other. The load is plugged into battery 1 like your first set up. Battery (2) is 5 ft away located in the back of the boat with just the Pos & Neg cable ran to it from battery 1 😅. Neg to neg pos to pos. Long cable.
Should i just add a bus bar to it at this point so it pulls from each end? Draining & charging it equally as 1?
AGM will charge each other much better in parallel because they have a more sloped charge curve. But if possible use option 2. 1 should only be used if you are drawing low amps (under 10).
This is why you don't use 3 batteries. You don't need bus bars, and you get perfect balance, if the number of batteries are determined by geometric sequence. (1,2,4,8,16, etc.)
I'm a retired electrician did some DC work it's all about balance of these batteries,I'm going with 48 volt hybrid used cheaper then buying these solar types batterys that's the big thing is storage of the power from your panals .I like your system.
FYI: You should never have the output leads coming off the end battery of a parallel setup. Ground should be on the opposite side of the battery stack from positive, unless buss-bars are used.
What was the charging performance on setup 1 & 2 please?
BTW this shows some of the inside big batteries cells and why when full loaded the cells voltage drifts away and needs balancing!!! never forget cells are independent batteries in series and some of them are in center and others act as poles!!! !!!! made my run and install the active balancer to my pack
Nothing in this video showed that individual *cells* need balancing.
@@MrSummitville no, but logic explains it by extension
@@dominus6695 Maybe you do not understand English? I said and I will repeat ... *Nothing* in this video showed that individual cells need balancing". So, which video are you talking about? Give me the @time in this video where "... logic explains by extension ...". Oh wait, it did *not* happen ...
@@MrSummitville it shows how resistance causes a voltage drop and differences in charge/discharge. So it does not show it directly, but it shows the effect of different cable lenghts and resistances. Therefore his comment. hahaha
@@MrSummitville maybe you don't understand how electricity works and why he made the helpful comment lol
A custom made circular bus bar ? A big flat washer with battery lug holes on the outside and a big hole in the middle for the input/output ? But with just a standard bus bar mount the two anode/cathode wires of the four on top of each other with the charger/load wires in the middle ?...🌩 ⚡️
Question: I have four lithium batteries (12v/100ah). I have a bus bar like yours (four poles). Do I occupy all four poles with the four batteries, then add the inverter to one of the used poles? (So, the inverter would share a bus bar pole with one of the batteries.) Would that be bad practice? Thanks
Impressive. But where is the charger connected?
He connected it (via clamps) to the terminals sticking off the front of the inverter.
The charger is the little black box on the right, the inverter is the larger blue one underneath the charger.
Nice video, well done. However I have a question, in the busbar configuration could I further reduce the current differences by adjusting the cable lengths for two of the batteries, say battery 1 and 2, to take into account the current path length through the busbar?
No. Move the one of the wires, going from the inverter to the bus bar, to the other side of the bar. Or use a bigger bus bar.
Great info !
Much appreciated ! Liked/Subscribed !
*FJB !*
That first battery taking the load more than the others .
I hook up the power to one of my battery's and the ground on the other to keep the current and load the same .
I do the same with Power Inverter too
How about the victron halfway hookup???
What is that? I googled it but Im kind of slow. Im trying to determine my wiring currently.
Great video
Thank you much? This was a huge help!
Run black off the left battery. Red off the right side. Even out the load. I never run black/red both from 1st battery.
For best balanced battery output move the negative cable to the first battery terminal.
This would not make any difference as the third battery is wired the same way you could say in this setup that the order of the batteries are 3,2,1.
Thanks
@@sfkenergy Have you ever heard current sharing and also internal resistance from the battery itself this would make significantly affects the performance. The 3rd battery would probably the first be charged up and also the first one to take the discharge.
A big buss bar to get them more equal draw on them the load a little ways aways from battery bank
I learned a lot thanks.
Good 👍 stuff..
So would it be fair to assume that for a 2 battery setup, probly best to go with a piggy back setup with positive and negative going off different batteries?
Better but still not best.
Broooo this is what i searched for!
But i really want to DIY the barries with eve prismatic cells.
The one flaw in your setup is you should have fusing to each battery either at the battery or the busbar connection. Fuse rating at 150% of anticipated load. This prevents failure due to one of the batteries internally shorting and the other batteries delivering 10XC (C = battery capacity) current!! In your setup 60 to 80 amp fuses would be suggested.....
Thanks for your reply, this was meant to be a demonstration real world installs will use breakers and or fuses as needed. SFK batteries have internal shunts and can monitor amps which means they can be set to disable output at a definable output by the user in the app as well.
Oh thats a cool feature! I am considering replacing my lead acids in a sailboat and lithium certainly seems the way to go.
Which pole of the battery ought to be fused
@@scrypturefx3077 The terminal that is *not* connected to system ground.
@@MrSummitvilleLOL
I'm completely stumped as to why no one is commenting on wire Guage. I'm seeing all kinds of wire used across the internet and no one seems to care but people say it's important... but leave it out of every tutorial.
I have 3 12v 200ah batteries to be run in parallel. I was just going run a bolt and nut through the 3 red to the red trunk, and the 3 black to the black trunk.
Wouldn't this be better than a bar?
I'm stuck on wire size... I'm also stuck on, do i need a fuse and what size to my 3000w inverter.
I have a bunch of 8awg and some 4/0. Was going to 8awg the bank and 4/0 the trunk, with a 100a fuse, although i might up it to 200a.
Thoughts?
In case anyone cares:
2 x 60v 7ish amp solar panels, 300w? To controller run in parallel. So 60v 15a for 600 watts. To meet 100/50 mppt.
3 x 12v 200ah sla bats run in parallel(haven't done this yet, but planning to) on 8 awg wire to stud/ trunk. Trunk would be a fused 4/0 to inverter. All lines would be as close to same length respective to their run. Although I feel like a fuse would mess up one leg on the trunk... something else i don't see anyone addressing.
Any help appreciated
There are plenty of videos discussing AWG wire size.
Could you have the cable for the inverter in the middle of the three cables on the busbar coming from the batteries? In other words could you connect the inverter to the middle lug on the busbar? Pause at 10:50 on the video
Yes that would make it a bit better but I think as long as the amp difference is under 10 amps it should balance out easily when you fully charge. The main goal is to avoid the large amp differences of 30+ and as long as you do this you should be good to go.
@@sfkenergy Its just something i noticed in the video. I seen other videos where there was more than four batteries and the cables from the batteries were taken from the middle of the bank to the inverter. Unfortunately comments were disabled in the videos I saw. I wonder why?
I have the same setup with everything on bus bars but with two batteries. I want to connect a shunt but I don't know exactly where to wire it because the bus bars are throwing me off. If someone would enlighten me I'd appreciate it.
Could changing wire size balance the amp draw.
When the cables are all the same length/size, it is assumed that the resistance would be equal. Proximity to each battery connection on the busbar is the most likely culprit in this demonstration. Still one or two amp differential is inconsequential. Greater than 10 amp differential will cause disparity in rate of degradation and lifespan of each battery in a parallel setup.
I have 3 SOK batteries and the app will only show 1 battery at a time, that's pretty useful the way that your app shows all 3 batteries at the same time
Can I have 2 AMG + 2 LIFePO4 batteries connected together to bus bar ?
@@arturhulboj7762 This is not recommended, mixing ago and lithium will just keep draining the lithium battery.
No one else had an issue with how close the pos and neg bus bars were to touching felt like one little bump or opps and sparks would be flying.
Would you recommend a buss bar for 2 batteries?
@@ChadGerstmeyer-vr1sg 2 is not really necessary but 3 or 4 yes you should.
@@sfkenergy excellent! Thank you
Good info , good job.
your setup can be improved a little more if you think about it😇
Are you referring to jumping battery to battery m?
Pretty sure people watching this video are not going to know... like me.
@@inv1s_- In the first set up, just connect the inverter negative to the negative on battery 1, Now just saved you money time and frustration.
@@oilpressingNo, that is *not* the best way. The busbar is the best way.
We should see what happens in series ?
No. Not with these batteries and this inverter
I think batteries can be connected in series but not with this inverter. I was saying what will happen if you connect them in series , each of the batteries will have different voltage
@@ferdm9646 Yes, batteries connected in series will have different voltages. So what?
@@MrSummitville so what ???? Fine 👌
@@ferdm9646 Each cell, inside each battery, has a different voltage - lead acid and Li-Ion. When did this become an issue?
Why you na try bolt all 3 batteries and inventor lead together in one bolt
I eliminate the buss bar alltogther, and place all in to one line, and using a copper switch to conected to a fuse, then conneteced to a main. it is all in a box this is what I did with even my agms, and I do the exact same set up with my solar array.. becasue the intersting thing, is the soilar arrays, are the exact same thing like ones batteries. .I jsut make sure that I am not over drawing what my lines can handle, I also tap my lines directly in to the charge controller from breaker to the battery bank. My charge controler has fuses in it aswell, they seem to be more touchy than the breakers. My newer system has a build in breaker and just needs a connect disconnet switch.
they are starting to make these units idiot proof. I just make sure everything is tight.
Question. i got hold of 57 free batteries of 6volt 4,5Ah NiMH type of batterys .. Thats a lot of batteries.. i wish to make a giant powerbank in parallel connection .. Is there something i have to remeber? ... do i need thicker cables then the ones that already are on the batteries? how is it when i charge that many batteries in parallell ? do i need a super charger? or just use a normal charger that will just take much longer time?
I also got a hold on 43 of 4 cells NiCd batteries with a voltage of 4,8 and they have 4,5Ah -- planned to make a 2nd powerpack with those. All batteries are only 3 years old and they are fully functional.. they had to be replaced because of strict rules on batteries that feed emergency light on ship .. they get replaced every 3 years even the law say 5 years.. guess shipping company just want to make sure their ok .. they have been maintain charged trough the years they been active.. and they only sometimes get used on test of the emergency light onboard.