Just picked up a 89 ezgo gxt-800 and had same problems with drive clutch. Was able to take bell off clutch and then snake some fine emery cloth thru that spider to polish crust off shaft. Worked good and didn’t have to pull clutch off. Thanks for your video about clutch problems. I also stretched tension spring some to help it push sheeve back open.
The Hydraulic method of using grease or oil works fine but it makes a big mess. After having a few EZGO'S with the 2 and 4 stroke version engines when dealing with removal of the primary clutch having the proper tool for the job is priceless! These are nothing more than a snowmobile Comet clutch and they sell the proper tools to work on them! They aren't complicated to deal with honestly...... but without a doubt these 30mm 1-10 tapered shafts can be a little challenging to get the primary to pop off the crankshaft. If you aren't sure what tool you need to remove the clutch? Read the writing on the clutch and search the internet for the results of the model clutch you have. More than likely, you will come across the proper tool for the job. These clutches are known for sticking on because of their lack of spring pressure which makes it return to the neutral state. Being a golf cart is made to start moving the second the engine fires up, they're springs are very weak on purpose. But this causes a problem with the clutch being able to release fully as they age or get a little dirty or corroded over time, especially when they've been sitting around for a while. By cleaning them up and a full disassembly and yes they are serviceable and I've removed plenty of spiders from these EZGO clutches! I had to make a tool to lock into the 3 forks of the spider and then using a little heat on the threaded center of the spider with a large breaker bar on the spider tool they very well break loose and are completely serviceable in this fashion. But if you are having the problem with it not fully disengaging without the removal of your spider to totally disassemble the clutch? Do your best to clean up and rust on your shaft and keep any sandpaper grit from getting into the pulley bushing! This will only make your problems worse by being in a rush and doing a sloppy job. When you have it apart and can see how it's supposed to move without a spring to help it, you can easily find out what's binding up and where it's getting tight to move freely on the shaft. By closing the pulleys fully this exposes the outside of the shaft where most times has some rust on them. Using something like emery cloth or very light grit sandpaper removal of the rusted portions are necessary. Once you get the shaft cleaned up of rust, spray it down with something like starting fluid or brake cleaner without moving anything. Once you get the shaft cleaned off then move the pulley outwards and flush out the bushing as best as possible with the same cleaner, until you feel it's satisfactory. Apply a very thin layer of a high pressure grease to the shaft and moving the pulley back and forth until it feels like the bushings taken on the lubricant be sure to remove any access grease from the shaft and surrounding areas being thr grease will make dirt and dust stick worse than a non lubricated shaft would. Some people choose to use a liquid graphite which does work well too and doesn't attract any dirt afterwards. Clean up the weights and pivot points and make sure they move freely as well. If you want to take the weights off to help better clean them, then make sure you put them back together properly with the 2 shim washers against the weights and not on the outside of the bolt and nuts! This will solve most problems with your clutches hanging up especially at slower speeds. And again yes Sir these are made by Comet clutches and they are serviceable fully! I've done many of them and rebuilt them rather than replacing them with a Chinese knock off which unusual doesn't work out of the boxes!
Great video! I loved how you said you were going to go rig it up and you'd be right back. My wife said that sounds like something I'd say... and I agree... I do some of those same things by using things I have and adapt them to do what I need
hi i have an 89 txt drivers side rear wheel is locked up trying get drum off hopeing its not the rear end any ideas drum is solid on any suggestions on cause or fix thanks
My late father's has been acting up. Going full speed one of the clutches will lock up. I could have swore it was the driven clutch because I could move the sleeves together easy by hand. Changed that and it's doing it again this summer. Guessing it was the drive clutch. Wasted money. Now I have to look for a drive clutch I guess.
sorry, I do not I went back through all my Amazon orders and can't find it. I am almost sure it was amazon but could have been ebay although I didn't see it on there either. they are pretty common just search for EZGO 3pg drive clutch. unless you have an older one that is the 2pg.
I have a 1989 also, looks just like yours. Is your belt super loose on there when its installed? I have a 41 inch belt and it seems too loose to me, but 41 is what i gather it calls for. Is yours 41"?
When I first bought this one that was one of the problems. It was stuck open similar issue though luckily after jacking it up and letting fly it broke loose and worked for a while until we had this issue with it sticking closed.
Wow... I just looked on my ebay history I paid $175 for mine when I click the link they want $299 now. The cheapest one I saw was $248. When I was looking I compared amazon and ebay was cheaper might be Amazon now.
Yes, you have to buy the tapered spacer the crankshaft and cut part of the crank snout off. Problem with not running the stock is, if you dont use the starter generator method to start the engine then you cant shift the trans with engine running. Finding the right drive belt can be a nightmare.
@@henrysmith8012 my cart was a 2 stroke. The engine was started by an electric motor that would control fwd/rev. So the direction control was electric. I won't have reverse and that's fine. I just didn't want to go sailing away as soon as it started.
Just picked up a 89 ezgo gxt-800 and had same problems with drive clutch. Was able to take bell off clutch and then snake some fine emery cloth thru that spider to polish crust off shaft. Worked good and didn’t have to pull clutch off. Thanks for your video about clutch problems. I also stretched tension spring some to help it push sheeve back open.
The Hydraulic method of using grease or oil works fine but it makes a big mess. After having a few EZGO'S with the 2 and 4 stroke version engines when dealing with removal of the primary clutch having the proper tool for the job is priceless! These are nothing more than a snowmobile Comet clutch and they sell the proper tools to work on them! They aren't complicated to deal with honestly...... but without a doubt these 30mm 1-10 tapered shafts can be a little challenging to get the primary to pop off the crankshaft. If you aren't sure what tool you need to remove the clutch? Read the writing on the clutch and search the internet for the results of the model clutch you have. More than likely, you will come across the proper tool for the job. These clutches are known for sticking on because of their lack of spring pressure which makes it return to the neutral state. Being a golf cart is made to start moving the second the engine fires up, they're springs are very weak on purpose. But this causes a problem with the clutch being able to release fully as they age or get a little dirty or corroded over time, especially when they've been sitting around for a while. By cleaning them up and a full disassembly and yes they are serviceable and I've removed plenty of spiders from these EZGO clutches! I had to make a tool to lock into the 3 forks of the spider and then using a little heat on the threaded center of the spider with a large breaker bar on the spider tool they very well break loose and are completely serviceable in this fashion. But if you are having the problem with it not fully disengaging without the removal of your spider to totally disassemble the clutch? Do your best to clean up and rust on your shaft and keep any sandpaper grit from getting into the pulley bushing! This will only make your problems worse by being in a rush and doing a sloppy job. When you have it apart and can see how it's supposed to move without a spring to help it, you can easily find out what's binding up and where it's getting tight to move freely on the shaft. By closing the pulleys fully this exposes the outside of the shaft where most times has some rust on them. Using something like emery cloth or very light grit sandpaper removal of the rusted portions are necessary. Once you get the shaft cleaned up of rust, spray it down with something like starting fluid or brake cleaner without moving anything. Once you get the shaft cleaned off then move the pulley outwards and flush out the bushing as best as possible with the same cleaner, until you feel it's satisfactory. Apply a very thin layer of a high pressure grease to the shaft and moving the pulley back and forth until it feels like the bushings taken on the lubricant be sure to remove any access grease from the shaft and surrounding areas being thr grease will make dirt and dust stick worse than a non lubricated shaft would. Some people choose to use a liquid graphite which does work well too and doesn't attract any dirt afterwards. Clean up the weights and pivot points and make sure they move freely as well. If you want to take the weights off to help better clean them, then make sure you put them back together properly with the 2 shim washers against the weights and not on the outside of the bolt and nuts! This will solve most problems with your clutches hanging up especially at slower speeds. And again yes Sir these are made by Comet clutches and they are serviceable fully! I've done many of them and rebuilt them rather than replacing them with a Chinese knock off which unusual doesn't work out of the boxes!
You have a link of someone servicing one? My clutch is stuck outward position cart doesn’t move. Thank you in advance
Hey this was good advice. Can you answer if the drive shaft is supposed to spin freely or is it supposed to spin with a clutch
Great video! I loved how you said you were going to go rig it up and you'd be right back. My wife said that sounds like something I'd say... and I agree... I do some of those same things by using things I have and adapt them to do what I need
They are serviceable, gboost sells the rollers and bushings for them. Pain to install no info on removal. It can be done.
Excellent video..! Had no idea they wasn't serviceable.. You saved me lots of time sir.
hi i have an 89 txt drivers side rear wheel is locked up trying get drum off hopeing its not the rear end any ideas drum is solid on any suggestions on cause or fix thanks
They absolutely are serviceable. If is stuck you just need to use heat. It will work
@Scooters Only Repair I have same clutch with same problem. Can you give more detail on "need to use heat" ? Much appreciated
My late father's has been acting up. Going full speed one of the clutches will lock up. I could have swore it was the driven clutch because I could move the sleeves together easy by hand. Changed that and it's doing it again this summer. Guessing it was the drive clutch. Wasted money. Now I have to look for a drive clutch I guess.
Any chance you have the part # for the clutch? I'm having the same problem. Great video, thanks!
sorry, I do not I went back through all my Amazon orders and can't find it. I am almost sure it was amazon but could have been ebay although I didn't see it on there either. they are pretty common just search for EZGO 3pg drive clutch. unless you have an older one that is the 2pg.
Not me i put new front and rear clutches new belts 125psi for compression . whats can be wrong
Great video exactly what I was trying to figure out
Thanks for the video I’m having the same problem. What size bolt & how long for the spacing?
1:29... 3/4x16 I'm not sure on how deep it was I think I was using a 4 or 5 inch long bolt in the hole.
My cart jumps when u hit the gas. Almost gets the front tires off the ground. Think I need a new clutch too?
I have a 1989 also, looks just like yours. Is your belt super loose on there when its installed? I have a 41 inch belt and it seems too loose to me, but 41 is what i gather it calls for. Is yours 41"?
I have the same issue ...
Thanks for the video. What was the process to install the new clutch?
What if the its just not tightening on the belt though?
When I first bought this one that was one of the problems. It was stuck open similar issue though luckily after jacking it up and letting fly it broke loose and worked for a while until we had this issue with it sticking closed.
Could you post a link of the new clutch you bought?
Wow... I just looked on my ebay history I paid $175 for mine when I click the link they want $299 now. The cheapest one I saw was $248. When I was looking I compared amazon and ebay was cheaper might be Amazon now.
I have the same cart... could you share the link. Need to buy a new clutch
Do you by chance have a link to the clutch you bought?
yo this saved me
I'm buying a predator 420 to replace my engine.
Do you think I can use my stock clutch?
Maybe if the shaft length and diameter is the same should work
Yes, you have to buy the tapered spacer the crankshaft and cut part of the crank snout off. Problem with not running the stock is, if you dont use the starter generator method to start the engine then you cant shift the trans with engine running. Finding the right drive belt can be a nightmare.
@@henrysmith8012 my cart was a 2 stroke.
The engine was started by an electric motor that would control fwd/rev.
So the direction control was electric.
I won't have reverse and that's fine.
I just didn't want to go sailing away as soon as it started.
Nice video thank you for sharing.👍🏻🙂.
what year model is yours and howbmuch was your new cluch
1989... $170 i think
What was the part number for the clutch.. i need the same one
You could also shove a piece of bread in the crank and tighten bolt. Hydraulic pressure does it for you.
Man that was a terrible ending.. great method though on clutch removal.
Pretty sure it's metric. I might be wrong. but good video
That’s your driven clutch not the drive clutch.
grease and teflon tape would have worked
Really wet try bread