I never comment on videos but Thank you so much. I live in Boston in an industrial condo where it gets cold downstairs in the winter. My complex has a contract with a company that has no clue what they are doing. Last winter we literally froze. The HVAC guys have come on several occasions and told me that it’s supposed to say zone 1 it’s just how the building is built 🤥. After watching your video I was able to do it myself. Thank you again me and my kids can finally shower and not feel like we are in Antarctica. Might even consider going to school for a new trade would love to help woman like myself you are the best thank you thank you 🙏🏽
Super helpful video me thank you for posting! Could changing my thermostat cause the zones (or the dampers) to stop working ..or can zones be configured from the panel (or are they assigned/configured though the wiring
Great video. I have a new conventional HVAC system . Using Ecobee t-stats, which worked fine with the old system. When new HVAC system was installed, a new Honeywell zone control board was installed given that that new system is a 2 stage. Right now, one of the zones is calling for cooling but not working (condenser fan remains off), however, despite using the same unit, zone 2 does work when calling for cooling. Do you think this is a t-stat issue or a control board issue?
What does Cool 1 and Cool 2 indicate? Is this to indicate which cooling stage the unit is running in? If yes, will that display accurately if your thermostat is setup to control the cooling stage (vs the HZ432)?
My first time dealing with one of these boards and 2 of 4 zones are staying open constantly. I’m getting 28v on open and 25 on close for the actuator at the same time when calling for those zones. I wouldn’t think I should get voltage on both sides at the same time. I would think close would be zero volts when asking the zone to be open. Bad board?
I can’t be sure as I would need to check the unit. But usually when the heat light is blinking this possibility means the zone controller discharge air temperature sensor has reach a high limit. This is caused by an airflow problem. Dirty filter plugged evaporator coil, plugged secondary heat exchanger, failed zone damper actuators,failed blower motor, dead blower run capacitor, dirty or broken blower wheel, or some kind of airflow restriction.
We have 2 zones and around midnight, one side of the house continues to cool while the other side of the house stops cooling. Is there a reason one damper would close in the middle of the night while the other remains open?
@@NighthawkHVAC I am assuming it is because the damper closed but I am not certain. Last night I tried turning off the zone 2 that continued to cool to see if it would affect the other side but it didn't. The same side stayed warm (zone 1) and the air continued to come out forcefully on Zone 2 even though the thermostat was turned off.
I never comment on videos but Thank you so much. I live in Boston in an industrial condo where it gets cold downstairs in the winter. My complex has a contract with a company that has no clue what they are doing. Last winter we literally froze. The HVAC guys have come on several occasions and told me that it’s supposed to say zone 1 it’s just how the building is built 🤥. After watching your video I was able to do it myself. Thank you again me and my kids can finally shower and not feel like we are in Antarctica. Might even consider going to school for a new trade would love to help woman like myself you are the best thank you thank you 🙏🏽
This is great! Thank you! Mine has been sitting in the box, all dampers installed ready to go but reluctant to install until now!
Great video
Good video! My heat or AC won’t turn on. I replaced the temp sensor but my HZ322 stays in purge mode and the EH light is red.
Super helpful video me thank you for posting! Could changing my thermostat cause the zones (or the dampers) to stop working ..or can zones be configured from the panel (or are they assigned/configured though the wiring
Great video. I have a new conventional HVAC system . Using Ecobee t-stats, which worked fine with the old system. When new HVAC system was installed, a new Honeywell zone control board was installed given that that new system is a 2 stage. Right now, one of the zones is calling for cooling but not working (condenser fan remains off), however, despite using the same unit, zone 2 does work when calling for cooling. Do you think this is a t-stat issue or a control board issue?
Sounds like a setting on either the zone board or the tstats. Possibly wrong wiring.
What does Cool 1 and Cool 2 indicate? Is this to indicate which cooling stage the unit is running in? If yes, will that display accurately if your thermostat is setup to control the cooling stage (vs the HZ432)?
Cool 1 is cool stage 1 Y1. Cool 2 is cool stage 2 Y2.
My first time dealing with one of these boards and 2 of 4 zones are staying open constantly. I’m getting 28v on open and 25 on close for the actuator at the same time when calling for those zones. I wouldn’t think I should get voltage on both sides at the same time. I would think close would be zero volts when asking the zone to be open. Bad board?
I have a Honeywell hz322. My heat will not turn on and flow. Heat 1 is constantly blinking red. Only 2 zone unit. Why is my heat not running? TIA.
I can’t be sure as I would need to check the unit. But usually when the heat light is blinking this possibility means the zone controller discharge air temperature sensor has reach a high limit. This is caused by an airflow problem. Dirty filter plugged evaporator coil, plugged secondary heat exchanger, failed zone damper actuators,failed blower motor, dead blower run capacitor, dirty or broken blower wheel, or some kind of airflow restriction.
We have 2 zones and around midnight, one side of the house continues to cool while the other side of the house stops cooling. Is there a reason one damper would close in the middle of the night while the other remains open?
The thermostat in that zone may have a program that causes this to occur.
@@NighthawkHVAC I am assuming it is because the damper closed but I am not certain. Last night I tried turning off the zone 2 that continued to cool to see if it would affect the other side but it didn't. The same side stayed warm (zone 1) and the air continued to come out forcefully on Zone 2 even though the thermostat was turned off.
Then you may have a faulty damper actuator motor
What state and area are you located
where is the connect button to connect to the thermostat???
You need a wireless adapter to hook up the wireless stats
👏👏👏👏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏