Mike all I do is watch your videos non stop👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽. Your videos explain and makes sense to ME should of found u years ago 🤦🏻♂️ We can’t use bypass in CA
Man, you don’t know how happy I am because I finally found this wonderful video that I was looking for for a long time and finally I found it on your wonderful channel. The most important thing that impresses me about your channel is the more than wonderful detailed explanation. How lucky I am because I subscribed to your channel on TH-cam
OMG…. You should have your own school!! I’ve been hiring AC guys and they couldn’t explain or diagnose my current system problems. Then I found you. Thanks a million for sharing. If you have a video on troubleshooting or bypassing zone dampers to figure out why my heat pump or emergency heat runs concurrent with my ac is running… that would be amazing.
@@JerseyMikeHVAC I do. I replaced the old one with with a 3-zone Honeywell control board. There was a weird jumper setup that combined W1/E and W2 with the white heat wire plugged into W2. I removed the jumper and placed the white wire in W1. Yellow in Y1. Now my EM heat comes on when heat is selected on the thermostat but the AC unit does not come on. When the thermostat is set to cool the Air handler turns on heat and AC at same time. Any suggestions?
@@4twt Honeywell advises not to hook up to W1 terminal when running with heat pump systems. Thats what causes Emergency heat and AC to run simultaneously. I had to fix a few of them like that. Sky high electric bills! Use W2 instead of W1.
Thank you, Great Tutorial! Very helpful when I started adding Nest thermostats to a 2-zone system and received a "no C wire" error code although I had connected it to the Nest. Your video showed where to look and sure 'nuf, the blue wires from the thermostats were bundled at the board. Connecting them to the C connector for both thermostats fixed the error code. Thanks again!
Very good video my man!! Thank you , I gotta a quotation.So how do you wire the bypass damp for this particular set up .? If you could make a quick video on that it would be awesome. Thanks!!
Thank you. Wiring up the damper is real easy. Just 2 wires from the transformer. 24v and common. That's it. Or you can run 2 wires right off of the R and C on the zoning panel itself where the transformer feeds into it.
Just found your channel and been watching all your videos for the last hour or two. You have an awesome way of explaining things. One thing i still didnt really understand is the point of the bypass duct and how it is operated. I understood it had to do with static pressure issues if only one zone is calling but how does it get operated?
There are 2 tubes connected to the damper. One goes to the supply trunk, the other the return. The damper itself has a pressure switch in it. When the pressure difference between the supply tube and the return tube is great enough (such as when one of the zones are closed and the pressure is higher on the supply) the pressure switch closes and the circuit activates a mechanical arm on the damper that opens it (just 24 volts directly from a transformer and back, with the pressure switch acting like a light switch). When the pressure difference drops (such as when all the dampers are open in the supply trunk) the pressure switch opens and the damper closes.
In your video, you say that Orange and Brown is not needed cause it's not a heat pump system. I believe that in older, non-heat pump, zone systems they were used. I just replaced an old thermostat that O and B in different slots. The new thermostat had a single slot labeled O/B. As far as I could piece together, one was for cooling and the other for heating. I believe they have to do with controlling dampers but I don't really understand any of this. I tried the one color in the summer and switched to the other color just now and that seems to work, I've been getting heating and cooling. In the meantime, the thermostat for the zone that I did NOT replace was not working (we didn't use that zone in the summer). I looked over the manual and there was a setting on the thermostat that had three choices, two for heat pump and one for zone systems. I switched that parameter to zone and now the thermostat works. The new thermostat is a Sensi smart thermostat. Any insight you could provide would be greatly appreciated - your video was great, thanks!
If you can make a vedio about these subjects we will be so grateful: Toproof unit wiring. Commercial kitchen makeup air unit wiring and commercial kitchen hood wiring 🙏🙏🙏
Do you have any video explaining the switches setup and the timers on top. I installed myself the panel yesterday but I’m feeling something is not right
Hey Mike, hope you are doing well today. I'm using the same control board for my Mrcool heatpump (o reversing valve) and Mrcool air handler. Issue I'm having is when I call for heat I get cold air. The only way I get the board to work is if I tell my thermostat I'm using a B reversing valve system and move the dip to B instead of O. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong here
There are dip switches inside the zoning panel that also need to be set. 3rd switch down is to set to regular heat/cool thermostat or Heat pump thermostat. 4th switch down is to set to O or B for the reversing valve.
@ got thrown into the situation I was worried about and power supply came from inside of the cabinet high V. ZB never done one and it’s like I heard most it’s more intimidating than the difficulty your video helped a lot and I appreciate your response
Hi Mike, Great Video - Quick Question - Have a normal two zone high efficiency gas furnace setup and have the exact same NCM300 Zone Board -Where I have smart thermostats, just performed an update and added a dedicated 24V 40VA transformer connected to the R and C EWC terminals - Have read articles to possibly add an inline 3A fuse on the transformer 24 V side - Looking for thoughts if you get a sec - Thanks
My parent's house has 2 zone dampers. One damper is old that it needs a special thermostat that sends power to open and close. Does this mean that I do not have a zone panel? I thought I might have a zone panel as I see C, Y, G, R, W, P terminals on the outside of the HVAC unit with wires connected to it. From watching your good explanation video, when the thermostat satisfies, it is going to kill 24v signal to the W terminal and the zone panel will send power to the M6 to power close, thus nullifying the need for a special thermostat to send power to close.
Zoning dampers come in different arrangements, so they don't all work exactly the same as in the video. If you have 2 wires to the zone damper you likely have a spring damper that is powered closed and opens on a spring when power is removed. 3 wires indicates a power damper that has no spring and must be powered both open and closed. Sometimes you can even have 3 wires on a spring damper, where the third wire is just power for an indicator light and not the motor itself.
@@JerseyMikeHVAC Im having changing errors codes and check all the safeties and there code. Both motors are good. It went on high limit with both motors running and furnace wasnt even fired up was cool. Im thinking it a board. Any thoughts?
Mike all I do is watch your videos non stop👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽. Your videos explain and makes sense to ME should of found u years ago 🤦🏻♂️ We can’t use bypass in CA
I learn more from ur videos,then I've learnt from online payed classes
. . . Amazing stuff please keep making more
Very educated person I'm amazed
Thank you 🙏
Thank you
Man, you don’t know how happy I am because I finally found this wonderful video that I was looking for for a long time and finally I found it on your wonderful channel. The most important thing that impresses me about your channel is the more than wonderful detailed explanation. How lucky I am because I subscribed to your channel on TH-cam
OMG…. You should have your own school!! I’ve been hiring AC guys and they couldn’t explain or diagnose my current system problems. Then I found you. Thanks a million for sharing. If you have a video on troubleshooting or bypassing zone dampers to figure out why my heat pump or emergency heat runs concurrent with my ac is running… that would be amazing.
Do you have a Honeywell thermostat by any chance?
@@JerseyMikeHVAC I do. I replaced the old one with with a 3-zone Honeywell control board. There was a weird jumper setup that combined W1/E and W2 with the white heat wire plugged into W2. I removed the jumper and placed the white wire in W1. Yellow in Y1. Now my EM heat comes on when heat is selected on the thermostat but the AC unit does not come on. When the thermostat is set to cool the Air handler turns on heat and AC at same time. Any suggestions?
@@4twt Honeywell advises not to hook up to W1 terminal when running with heat pump systems. Thats what causes Emergency heat and AC to run simultaneously. I had to fix a few of them like that. Sky high electric bills! Use W2 instead of W1.
Thank you, Great Tutorial! Very helpful when I started adding Nest thermostats to a 2-zone system and received a "no C wire" error code although I had connected it to the Nest. Your video showed where to look and sure 'nuf, the blue wires from the thermostats were bundled at the board. Connecting them to the C connector for both thermostats fixed the error code. Thanks again!
_THANK YOU_ your power flow explanations are awesome!
Thanks for sharing. Very educational.
Wow, thanks Mike you made it some simple to understand
Very welcome
Thanks for these tutorials man , make it perfectly clear to understand !
Great explantion Mike! Thanks for putting this together.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks for this and everything u do
My pleasure!
Continue to keep up the good job
Always great 👍 helpful thanks 🙏 you 😊
My pleasure 😊
Thank you for this 🙏
Very helpful. Thanks!
very easy explanation. very clear
Very good video my man!! Thank you , I gotta a quotation.So how do you wire the bypass damp for this particular set up .?
If you could make a quick video on that it would be awesome. Thanks!!
Thank you. Wiring up the damper is real easy. Just 2 wires from the transformer. 24v and common. That's it. Or you can run 2 wires right off of the R and C on the zoning panel itself where the transformer feeds into it.
Just found your channel and been watching all your videos for the last hour or two. You have an awesome way of explaining things. One thing i still didnt really understand is the point of the bypass duct and how it is operated. I understood it had to do with static pressure issues if only one zone is calling but how does it get operated?
There are 2 tubes connected to the damper. One goes to the supply trunk, the other the return. The damper itself has a pressure switch in it. When the pressure difference between the supply tube and the return tube is great enough (such as when one of the zones are closed and the pressure is higher on the supply) the pressure switch closes and the circuit activates a mechanical arm on the damper that opens it (just 24 volts directly from a transformer and back, with the pressure switch acting like a light switch). When the pressure difference drops (such as when all the dampers are open in the supply trunk) the pressure switch opens and the damper closes.
@@JerseyMikeHVAC thanks man !
In your video, you say that Orange and Brown is not needed cause it's not a heat pump system. I believe that in older, non-heat pump, zone systems they were used. I just replaced an old thermostat that O and B in different slots. The new thermostat had a single slot labeled O/B. As far as I could piece together, one was for cooling and the other for heating. I believe they have to do with controlling dampers but I don't really understand any of this. I tried the one color in the summer and switched to the other color just now and that seems to work, I've been getting heating and cooling. In the meantime, the thermostat for the zone that I did NOT replace was not working (we didn't use that zone in the summer). I looked over the manual and there was a setting on the thermostat that had three choices, two for heat pump and one for zone systems. I switched that parameter to zone and now the thermostat works. The new thermostat is a Sensi smart thermostat. Any insight you could provide would be greatly appreciated - your video was great, thanks!
If you can make a vedio about these subjects we will be so grateful:
Toproof unit wiring.
Commercial kitchen makeup air unit wiring and commercial kitchen hood wiring 🙏🙏🙏
Awesome. Thank you.
You're welcome!
Subbed. great video
Do you have any video explaining the switches setup and the timers on top. I installed myself the panel yesterday but I’m feeling something is not right
Great info. Thank you.
Hey Mike, hope you are doing well today. I'm using the same control board for my Mrcool heatpump (o reversing valve) and Mrcool air handler. Issue I'm having is when I call for heat I get cold air. The only way I get the board to work is if I tell my thermostat I'm using a B reversing valve system and move the dip to B instead of O. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong here
There are dip switches inside the zoning panel that also need to be set. 3rd switch down is to set to regular heat/cool thermostat or Heat pump thermostat. 4th switch down is to set to O or B for the reversing valve.
I might have missed it in your video where do you get your power supply for the transformer designated for the ZB power
A dedicated transformer is used which is installed with the ZB.
@ got thrown into the situation I was worried about and power supply came from inside of the cabinet high V. ZB never done one and it’s like I heard most it’s more intimidating than the difficulty your video helped a lot and I appreciate your response
Hi Mike, Great Video - Quick Question - Have a normal two zone high efficiency gas furnace setup and have the exact same NCM300 Zone Board -Where I have smart thermostats, just performed an update and added a dedicated 24V 40VA transformer connected to the R and C EWC terminals - Have read articles to possibly add an inline 3A fuse on the transformer 24 V side - Looking for thoughts if you get a sec - Thanks
I would say it's always a good idea.
My parent's house has 2 zone dampers. One damper is old that it needs a special thermostat that sends power to open and close. Does this mean that I do not have a zone panel? I thought I might have a zone panel as I see C, Y, G, R, W, P terminals on the outside of the HVAC unit with wires connected to it.
From watching your good explanation video, when the thermostat satisfies, it is going to kill 24v signal to the W terminal and the zone panel will send power to the M6 to power close, thus nullifying the need for a special thermostat to send power to close.
Zoning dampers come in different arrangements, so they don't all work exactly the same as in the video. If you have 2 wires to the zone damper you likely have a spring damper that is powered closed and opens on a spring when power is removed.
3 wires indicates a power damper that has no spring and must be powered both open and closed.
Sometimes you can even have 3 wires on a spring damper, where the third wire is just power for an indicator light and not the motor itself.
@@JerseyMikeHVAC Thx for your reply. Your videos are informative.
So are the zone damper wiring the same as boiler circulators...
Pretty similar concept, yes.
When is your university going to take place ?
Hey Mike, are you familiar with gas furnaces?
Yes sir
@@JerseyMikeHVAC Im having changing errors codes and check all the safeties and there code. Both motors are good. It went on high limit with both motors running and furnace wasnt even fired up was cool. Im thinking it a board. Any thoughts?
@@rcmechanialgroup2856 serial number?
Is there a limit on the blower housing? Motors hot?
WOD5958581 Is a Luxaire 90%
@@JerseyMikeHVAC
Theres a limit on the inducer but its not hot
Good
Thank you