If you are trying to balance a bright sky to a darker foreground a Graduated Neutral Density is one of few effects you can't really 'fake' in post without losing detail.
Thanks for a really good and informative video. I have used graduated filters for a long time, for film. Got my first camera in 56, and changed to a slr in 68, and started with filters soon after. In 2003 I changed to dslr, and still have good use of my filters (I use LEE system). In Your example with the 2 mountains in each side of the picture, I would use a graduate filter. Foreground thru the clear part of the filter and correct exposed. Then if the difference between the sky and the mountains is fx 8 stop, I would use a 4 stop filter. The mountains will be under exposed, and the sky over exposed, but only 4 stops. Then I can adjust the mountains +4, and the sky -4 in post. Therefore there will be less quality lose in post than if I have to adjust 8 stops. Today I would do it on the computer, in old days I would have cut a piece of cardboard and used that to block light during enlargement in the darkroom.
It's true that post processing lets you do much of what the grad ND does, but having the ND get you closer to the final result frees up more dynamic range for your final adjusting. Sometimes with difficult lighting that extra range is nice. If you use magnetic swap filters so they're not a hassle in the field you'll actually use the filters instead of being made lazy by fine, delicate threads. Also, if you put step up adapters on your smaller lenses and standardize on a larger filter size (82mm for me) you can just buy one set of filters and save a lot of money and have less clutter to manage.
Shot a portrait in the shade with Mt Fuji in bright sun in the background to the side. Had to use soft Grad ND on Mt Fuji because it was near pure white. Can't stack exposure coz (subject would have changed).
David - thanks for the latest video. It was informative with useful examples. Since I've moved to digital and process my images in both Lightroom and Photoshop I no longer use graduate ND's. As you indicated he post processing method is much more specific to the areas in the image that need adjusting without effecting the rest of the image. Also with recent upgrades to Lightroom you can now select the sky by clicking on the SKY tab and within seconds a usually perfect selection of the sky is done. Using the same process you can also select people or objects. I do still use Neutral Density filters for long exposures. Obviously these filters effect the entire image, but can have a dramatic effect on the image. I imagine another negative for some people is the need for a tripod. Thanks again, Clyde Hamilton
David has to be one of the better presenters on Adorama (and no, Gavin, Daniel, Vanessa, Lindsay and others are great but at a higher level than what I need at this stage in my learning curve). I loved his video on how different telephoto lenses work, especially seeing how an R3 can use the RF/EF adapter with an EF teleconverter and with lenses that can accomodate the tele. And finally, I now have a basic grasp of ND filters.
Good video on the grad filter which is useful depending on your subject and conditions of weather. It best to bracket the shots to cover the range one wants. The color filters to enhance a sunset or bonfire covers a different set of headaches. As with any creative choice there pros and cons. Thanks David
It could be a TH-cam thing, but I felt that the image you showed lost a lot of detail in the mountains because of the filter. As you said, software gives you a lot of control. With the sharp edge between your sky and landscape, a sky replacement technique or even generative AI would likely save a lot of time as opposed to the hassle of using a filter.
In most cases it can be done digital. But I have also been in situations with very bright sky and very dark shadows at the mountains while traveling on a moving ship.
I suppose if the aperture is very wide open then the line between light and dark on the grad ND would be even more blurred than it is on the actual filter - and if you have bokeh balls it will darken one side of each bokeh ball?
Yes, I imagine the graduation would be more blurred if shooting wide open. Not sure about the bokeh though. I’d think the lights in the part of the frame that’s behind the darker part of the filter would be darker, not half and half.
@@DavidBergmanPhotoI was think since you can get shaped bokeh by putting a black disk with a shaped hole on the front of the lens the grad ND should do the same thing.
Because when you're wide open the almost the whole frame is seen by the whole front element. You're not just using the top of the front element for the top of the frame and the bottom of it for the bottom.
Sorry, David, it was difficult to listen to you in this video. You seemed very scattered; it didn't flow well. You speak so rapidly, making it difficult to understand and absorb what you say. I didn't watch this video to the end. With all due respect, you're a wonderful teacher, but not this time.
Always more challenging when I’m on location. Are you aware that you can slow down the playback speed on TH-cam? Maybe that will help. Either way, thanks for being a regular viewer
Thanks for your reply, David. No, I wasn't aware that one can slow down the playback. I'll give it a try. Thanks for the tip. Looking forward to viewing your next video. @@DavidBergmanPhoto
No longer use them when shooting digital. Too much of a hassle and a digital image can be managed in post.
If you are trying to balance a bright sky to a darker foreground a Graduated Neutral Density is one of few effects you can't really 'fake' in post without losing detail.
Thanks for a really good and informative video. I have used graduated filters for a long time, for film. Got my first camera in 56, and changed to a slr in 68, and started with filters soon after. In 2003 I changed to dslr, and still have good use of my filters (I use LEE system). In Your example with the 2 mountains in each side of the picture, I would use a graduate filter. Foreground thru the clear part of the filter and correct exposed. Then if the difference between the sky and the mountains is fx 8 stop, I would use a 4 stop filter. The mountains will be under exposed, and the sky over exposed, but only 4 stops. Then I can adjust the mountains +4, and the sky -4 in post. Therefore there will be less quality lose in post than if I have to adjust 8 stops. Today I would do it on the computer, in old days I would have cut a piece of cardboard and used that to block light during enlargement in the darkroom.
1956… Wow! You myst be as “young” as I am 😂
It's true that post processing lets you do much of what the grad ND does, but having the ND get you closer to the final result frees up more dynamic range for your final adjusting. Sometimes with difficult lighting that extra range is nice. If you use magnetic swap filters so they're not a hassle in the field you'll actually use the filters instead of being made lazy by fine, delicate threads. Also, if you put step up adapters on your smaller lenses and standardize on a larger filter size (82mm for me) you can just buy one set of filters and save a lot of money and have less clutter to manage.
I actually don't like their effect on the water. It just doesn't look natural. I only use a polarizer, and that very rarely.
Thank you, David. I always appreciate how you share your practical knowledge. You always explain your ideas with a style that is very approachable. ❤
Thanks for the information! I've been thinking about purchasing the unlock code for the built-in digital Grad NDs for my camera.
Shot a portrait in the shade with Mt Fuji in bright sun in the background to the side. Had to use soft Grad ND on Mt Fuji because it was near pure white. Can't stack exposure coz (subject would have changed).
I don't think that we need Grads.... As you said balancing space division can be a problem so better either Hdr or editing
David - thanks for the latest video. It was informative with useful examples. Since I've moved to digital and process my images in both Lightroom and Photoshop I no longer use graduate ND's. As you indicated he post processing method is much more specific to the areas in the image that need adjusting without effecting the rest of the image. Also with recent upgrades to Lightroom you can now select the sky by clicking on the SKY tab and within seconds a usually perfect selection of the sky is done. Using the same process you can also select people or objects. I do still use Neutral Density filters for long exposures. Obviously these filters effect the entire image, but can have a dramatic effect on the image. I imagine another negative for some people is the need for a tripod. Thanks again, Clyde Hamilton
David has to be one of the better presenters on Adorama (and no, Gavin, Daniel, Vanessa, Lindsay and others are great but at a higher level than what I need at this stage in my learning curve).
I loved his video on how different telephoto lenses work, especially seeing how an R3 can use the RF/EF adapter with an EF teleconverter and with lenses that can accomodate the tele.
And finally, I now have a basic grasp of ND filters.
Good video on the grad filter which is useful depending on your subject and conditions of weather. It best to bracket the shots to cover the range one wants. The color filters to enhance a sunset or bonfire covers a different set of headaches. As with any creative choice there pros and cons. Thanks David
Great video, thank you I do still shoot film.
It could be a TH-cam thing, but I felt that the image you showed lost a lot of detail in the mountains because of the filter. As you said, software gives you a lot of control. With the sharp edge between your sky and landscape, a sky replacement technique or even generative AI would likely save a lot of time as opposed to the hassle of using a filter.
In most cases it can be done digital. But I have also been in situations with very bright sky and very dark shadows at the mountains while traveling on a moving ship.
I suppose if the aperture is very wide open then the line between light and dark on the grad ND would be even more blurred than it is on the actual filter - and if you have bokeh balls it will darken one side of each bokeh ball?
Yes, I imagine the graduation would be more blurred if shooting wide open. Not sure about the bokeh though. I’d think the lights in the part of the frame that’s behind the darker part of the filter would be darker, not half and half.
@@DavidBergmanPhotoI was think since you can get shaped bokeh by putting a black disk with a shaped hole on the front of the lens the grad ND should do the same thing.
Because when you're wide open the almost the whole frame is seen by the whole front element. You're not just using the top of the front element for the top of the frame and the bottom of it for the bottom.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks!
😊😊
Excellent 👌
Sorry, David, it was difficult to listen to you in this video. You seemed very scattered; it didn't flow well. You speak so rapidly, making it difficult to understand and absorb what you say. I didn't watch this video to the end. With all due respect, you're a wonderful teacher, but not this time.
Always more challenging when I’m on location. Are you aware that you can slow down the playback speed on TH-cam? Maybe that will help. Either way, thanks for being a regular viewer
Thanks for your reply, David. No, I wasn't aware that one can slow down the playback. I'll give it a try. Thanks for the tip. Looking forward to viewing your next video. @@DavidBergmanPhoto