How to choose neutral density (ND) graduated filters for landscape photography
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 พ.ย. 2024
- Learn how to use and choose the correct neutral density (ND) grad/ graduated filter for landscape photography.
Very often this type of tutorial appears in photography magazines but they’re not giving you all of the information you need to choose the correct density.
When I first started learning photography I found it extremely irritating when I asked others “how do I choose the correct grad” and got various responses that led to nothing.
Hopefully what I’ve done with this tutorial is give you the tools needed whereby you can correctly choose the right density of neutral density graduate filter. if you feel that you still not getting it then please comment I’ll try my best to make things clearer.
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Recently discovered your blogs & very impressed. You obviously know your subject & express your views clearly & calmly.
A big 'plus' for me is the absence of any nerve jangling 'background' music ...
Thank you David! There is some music in some of my other vlogs but I try to keep it at a bear minimum and only when it's something like a setting up sequence.
I felt this tutorial had to be done as it just ins't out there. I always used to use a spot meter even with digital and felt that this particular skill is diminishing amongst photographer as we move to things such as mirrorless and live view where you see instant results.
Personally, I dont feel music is important in background of the videos,, sometimes we chose music that not match with some viewers. you know what I mean ..
Just starting with landscape photography and I realize now what a challenge it is to do it the right way. Your calm and excellent explanation gives me a perfect start. Thank you for that Julian.
Thanks for that Jos. Having been in that same position when I started I know what's like and I'm happy to help :)
You're an excellent teacher. Although nothing new for me personally, but still thoroughly impressed by your teaching skills - displaying a lot of patience and being very clear, as well as thorough. A great resource to alleviate headaches for newcomers to the world of NDs and ND Grads. I have to admit though I'm lazy and prefer to combine 2-3 exposures in post, but have to admit that on a windy day in-camera is usually preferred (note to self). Well done. PS. Thinking about swapping over to the Nisi system that is coming on strong, love the thought of their inbuilt CPL.
I have big numbers of NISI filter systems, the 150 one and the built in CPL ..its amazing ,, though expensive, but it worth every penny you spend on them. I really recommend them.
Hi Stanley. Just seeing your comments. I haven't tried NiSi and I'm not really familiar with it so can't comment. Would I ever swap from Lee? Yes! I think the issue Lee have now is that many great competitors have come onto the market and are giving them a run for their money!!!
that 3rd method is proper especially for those that are shooting medium or large format film. I appreciate that you showed how to do the averaging with brain power instead of just suggesting hitting the average button on a meter, which doesn't help as much with understanding what Grad filter to use.
Thank you! I started before the days of live view and mirror less cameras so was lucky enough to get used to a spot meter. Appreciate the kind comments
thanks for this very well explained refresher on grads. I too come from a film background and appreciate how much easier digital is in the sense you can see your image at the point of capture and adjust if necessary. I'm also a believer in getting the shot correct on location instead of how some shoot with the assertion every image can be post-processed to perfection. I prefer being out shooting not in front of a monitor editing.
Thank you Debbie! Although not from a film background per se I have used it and know how hard it can be to get it right. I also know there are a lot of people that for whatever reason just don't want to explain how to properly use grads. I know when I started that was the case.
You are going to get thrown out of the Photographs Secret Society for explaining this. I follow a lot of youtubers and no one has explained this in such an easy way. i prefer method 1 or 2. Great style of educating. Many Thanks. C
Thanks Chris! It was something that I found incredibly difficult to get information on in the early years.However, the information is out there if people know where to look :)
It could be two reasons as to why those others haven't explained it. They know but don't want to say or they simply don't know!
Personally, something such as how to choose a ND grad is not something I think should be kept as some big secret :)
Hi Julian as a newcomer to Landscape photography I have been impressed with your straight talking advice and the clear explanation in this video. I have got a new Lee kit and will apply your advice , I would like to do some coastal photography as well as land so I believe a polariser and maybe a stronger stopper filter will be required kit for best results . I hope that you can continue to provide clear advice to your audience devoid of the gimmicks of so many other ‘bloggers’ so I am subscribing to your channel with great hope for your future productions , thank you for all your efforts.
Hi Ken. Thanks for stopping by. A polarizer can’t be useful at the coast if you want to remove any sheen off rocks and water. Do you need a stopper / ND filter? Debatable as sunrise or sunset will always be long exposures.
Very clear, easy to understand and well-placed. i am totally agree ....they’re not giving you all of the information you need to choose the correct density. thank you so much for the value information.
Thanks for that. yes, I don't know why people feel the need to hide technical information like choosing a grad. It serves no purpose whatsoever!!!
Well done. Clear, concise, smartly sequenced.
Thanks for that! I hope that it's helped you in correctly choosing the grad to use.
Probably the best tutorial I have seen thus far. Have seen a lot with great results indeed but you have explained it very well.
Thank you for the that. It's appreciated a lot :)
Hi Julian: I would be surprised if you were lacking a light meter. Why not simplify everything and use a free standing light meter set at your working ISO? Meter foreground, etc., etc.
Well I used to have a Gossen Starlite until it got stolen around 6 years ago. I used it all the time.
Thanks Julian, at last a really useful explanation. It was the last piece of the puzzle of nd grads for me. Clear, informative with options. Great work. Thanks again
Thanks for the feedback! I'm glad it helps :)
This video is so helpful. Thank you for your very clear explanation. I watched your video on Big Stopper too.
Thanks Ann! I know it's an area that ever gets explained so I tried my best to make it clear.
the part about using a 1 stop grad and compensating two stops for white clouds was the money shot of the video.
Raevenswood thank you! I feel it’s important people understand properly rather than trying to confuse.
Julian Elliott Photography it’s easy to want to just use a 3 stop grad and forget that the meter makes everything 18% gray
@@Raevenswood the problem is that people can over graduated an image and it shows. Either through using a hard grad and seeing the line of the grad or the sky looks uneven.
Thank you, thank you, thank you - no one had ever explained this so articulately before now. Can't wait to give this a go now.
Thank you for those extremely kind words Dream Catcher :) I appreciate you stopping by and commenting :)
I think this is great and I've learn a few things today from you . I've subscribed. I found your explanation easy to follow and am grateful. Thank you.
No problems Jason! It was always my fear people would get lost on the last one but hopefully it's helped :)
very instructive vlog very easy to understand and without doubt the best filter vlog ive seen!!
Thank you @Francisco Costa! Very appreciated :)
Thank you, this has helped. I am just a couple of months into getting hooked on photography and was able to understand the first two methods, but after watching three times I still don’t get the third method and why you only use a one stop grad for a three stop difference. I am sure the answer is there, but its eluding me, help!
Hi Russell! Welcome to what was my nightmare ;) The 3rd method. You only use a 1 stop so that anything that is white will be white in the highlights. In the film days you didn't have much latitude to work with and two or three stops above the midtone the whites would be gone hence the 1 stop to pull them back a bit.
Julian Elliott Photography
Hi Julian, Thank you. I will watch your tutorial again in the hope that with what you have just told me, the penny will drop!
Hi Russell! It took one of those lightbulb moments for me too but once you can see it then you'll wonder why it was so hard to see :)
Julian Elliott Photography
Hi Julian, I have re-watched your tutorial several times and I cannot understand why you can use a 2 stop ND grad for a 2 stop difference between sky and foreground, but then in the third method you use a 1stop ND Grad for a 3 stop difference between sky and foreground.
I understand the methods and the calculations (I believe) but I am mystified by the final filter choice..
Russell
Hi Russell. Whereabouts in the World are you?
Really missing information are covered in this video. Great coverage and live practical demo. Thanks for making this video.
Thank you Ravi! The feedback is really appreciated and I hope it helps.
HI again Julian: Nicely done. However, as you are no doubt aware, given the dynamic range of modern digital cameras, one wonders if the need for these ND Grads or indeed ND Variable Grads continues. Post processing techniques ( not HDR ) are quite successful in recovering details in both shadows and highlights. Moreover, the ND and ND Grads from Lee and other manufacturers can certainly exceed $$600.00-$800.00 US for a complete set-and moreover must be carried into the field. I am curious if you have been able to compare the use of ND Grads to the results obtained by various post processing techniques. Of course, some photographers do not enjoy sitting before a computer screen and consequently the money spent for a ND and ND Grad may be worth it.
Thanks very much for taking the considerable time to make these excellent videos Julian.
Hi Dr Elliot. I think it’s a case that at times a grad is still needed if you don’t want to blend images. I’ve been stood next to friends who have Sony cameras and they still get blown highlights etc that definitely can’t be recovered. Grad or blend. It’s always a choice 👍
Brilliantly explained. Super tutorial. Thanks in the last method how you decided to keep 1/60 ? How the 1 stop is enough to equate the meter ? Please explain in detail. Thanks
With the spot metering method it does get confusing. This method goes back to the days of film ad trying to balance the exposures. You are not wanting to over compensate for the light so you leave space in the light to make it natural.
Great tutorial Mr. Jullian, I'm beginner although I've started photography 4 years back and stucked much with landscape photography but recently I've found highly informative video about metering and calculating the difference in exposure , now a days I'm in Salalah (sultanate of Oman) they've got incredible landscape scenery here at this time of year misty hilly topography and plenty of water falls I personally highly recommend it for every photographer in the world .
Sounds amazing! My Grandfather used to be based in your country near to Salalah. he always spoke very highly of your country :)
@@JulianElliottPhotography actually I live in Qatar but I felt in love with this heaven .
Cheers👍👍
Enjoyed that a lot. Watched twice (so far anyway). Very helpful. You got this in PDF doc format at all - would be a good addition to my "Bag".
Hi @GerzoC. Nope, it's not something that I have written down. I "think" somewhere I did actually write an article on it that never got published so I'll have a hunt around.
Excellent video! You have reinforced my belief into the utilization of my handheld SEKONIC Filter...Because your techniques are spot on with using my filter set up for 2.5-Stop of Middle Grey... I maintain a cheat sheet and I also use the calculator function of my light meter... It's interesting and a bit confusing on how you split the 1-Grad for the Sky and 2-Grad for the ground...
I am on the market for NISI.
My starting point was where do I start my glass filter selection purchase at in terms of a middle-of-road ND Grad Filter glass?!!?!?
Cheers!
Hi! Thank you for those comments. They are very appreciated.
I too used to use a light meter. I had a Gossen Starlite if memory serves and it was accurate every time.
In regards to the filter systems. I highly advise you to get into a store and try out the various systems. Why? I've just run a photography tour in Italy and watched a client struggle with their Nisi filter system. This may have been a case of user error but something I did notice was that getting the filters in and out of the holder was like pulling teeth.
I use both Lee Filters and Benro filters which are excellent. But really, find a shop and try for yourself. You're the one working with it each and every day so you must be comfortable in using it :)
Excellent video Julian, had to watch a couple of times , but very useful, cheers.
Thank you for that Rod! Glad it helped 👍
Thank you, for the excellent and intelligent explanation. A friend shared this video. I have always struggled and shy away from using nd filter in my kit. This most useful video suggestions will come in very handy.
Thank you, Julian.
Thanks for that Miguel. The comments are very appreciated and I'm sorry that I haven't responded before. Things get lost at times and with the travel I've had the past year things have been hectic.
Hello Julian. Thanks for that very detailed explanation of grad filters. I pretty much understand the exercise now but need to play it a couple of times. Regards, JA.
No worries John. let me know if you get stuck!
You have explained it very well. I needed to see it twice AND make a note especially 3rd one.
Where you use ring ND filter?
I will see if you've already a video.
Hi Vimal. A ring ND filter?
@@JulianElliottPhotography Thank Julian, I wrote wrong. I bought one that is NOT graduated, rather has different stages within a circular ring much like a polarizer.
Thanks for asking again!
@@vimalneha do you mean a variable ND filter?
@@JulianElliottPhotography Yes Yes. I bought it and I am getting some good results. Thanks for your time again.
@@vimalneha no problems and thanks again for stopping by :)
The second method is about metering and in this video you use a lens with auto focus to calculate the right shutter speed. How do you meter with a manual lens?
Hi Giuseppe. I can certainly say that if I use my Canon 24mm TS-E Mark II which is manual then it will work. Everything has to be zeroed off i.e. no tilt or shift applied.
This is the only manual lens that I have so I can't comment on how others will work unless I have the lens to hand.
Brilliant video, really pleased to see this online. I like my filters, and they are always my first choice and especially so when I'm using 35mm or 120 film. I'm not opposed to Lightroom or Photoshop but it very much has its limitations and going over 2 stops and your image starts to degrade. I will also often bracket a shot as well when I want as high a dynamic range as possible, but if I'm going to blow out highlights at sunset/sunrise I will bracket with a 1 or 2 stop reverse grad. The problem is too many people run to Lightroom or Photoshop because no one has taught them how to use filters in the correct way, and too many TH-camrs say "I don't like grads, I can do it in post" when they really mean they don't know how to use them. Hopefully you've started the tides turning, subscribed.
Thanks Mark!
I wanted it online because, as you say, a lot of the time people fudge their way through the use of graduated filters. With the digital age the skills are slowly being lost because it is becoming too easy to see your image before the shutter has even been pressed.
Will the video turn the tides? Be interesting if it did :)
Julian Elliott Photography Confucius: "A journey of a thousand miles starts with one step." Something started everyone doing it wrong, this video could be the start of everyone doing it right.
Hello i find your tutorial very helpful and have subscribed . But can you kindly explain how and why you're counting the shutter speed from 8th of second to 15th of a second to 30th of a second to the 60th of a second
Hi Samuel. Which method are you referring to? You count the stops though to know two things:
1) To correct the exposure if you have measured the light
2) To find the difference between the foreground and sky light
He is counting 10 stops.
Julian, thanks for a great explanation of the thought process. Very clear, easy to understand and well-paced.
No worries Chris! I'm glad that you found it useful :)
Very well explained and some tips I'd not come across before. Thanks for the time you put into making these blogs.
Thanks again Martin! If I passed on some knowledge then that's pleasing to hear :)
very nice tutorial.. great guide also before buying or using what GND u will need to use
Thanks Hisokiss! Hope that it helped in some way :)
@@JulianElliottPhotography really does and looking forward for new videos
Thanks for that! Latest video is up which is some of what I have just done in Mongolia. Aside from that I have an unfinished vlog on blending images together which will be upped at some point.
This is great video. Now I would like to ask you an advice if you will. I have big stopper from Lee's and .9 nd grad from Lee's as well. Which filter goes first into the slot closer to the lens? I assume big stopper....but still I like to ask a pro. Thanks
Hi Peter. You put the ND closet to the lens then the grads. Hope that helps :)
Hi Julian, cracking video. Option one looks about the easiest for me. Thanks for sharing 👍😀
Hi Julian I will do I'm at the moment waiting on my first drop in filters coming so if I have anything to ask I will be first in line to ask so thanks again appreciate it...
No problems David! Hopefully the tutorial helps but you're absolutely welcome to ask questions.
I nearly chucked this in because of the wind noise at the start. Glad I didn't, really good explanation 👍👍👍
Bad Hombre thank you. It wasn’t the easiest to film but hopefully all the information you need is there.
Hi Julian first two methods I got, third I’ll need to watch again but all round good video.
In your second method, wouldn't it be easier after setting your foreground exposure to zero, when pointing toward the sky just read how far from 0 you are instead of adjusting to 0 and counting stops afterwards? The meter goes from -3 to +3, so set foreground to 0, point at sky. If meter reads +2, then you need a 2 stop GND filter. Only problem would be if you peg your meter all the way to the right.
Hello Julian, have you a tutorial for beginners on how to use a Lee 10 Big Stopper and how to get a correct exposure please.
I think Allan that I had better do one ;) I'm going to the UK in a couple of weeks and will have ample opportunity to do some filming around the use of the Big Stopper.n Keep your eyes peeled and keep bugging me!
Hello Julian thank you for your reply, no one to my knowledge has done a step by step of A to Z of how to use a Big Stopper. Others gloss over it very quickly on how to do this. It would be a great service to the photography community if you addressed this oversight. I thank you for your time on this matter.
Allan, I'm having a very good think about how to approach this. I've started looking at some of the tutorials and I'm forming the same opinion as you. It needs to be done and also explained correctly.
I just watched one guy muck up the exposure times so that'll have to be explained.
There are some other things I have in mind too for it so I'll try to make it as good as I can :)
Thank you Julian, very kind of you.
great explanation, before i found your video, the most common answer i get is "you use it creatively" and truly it teach me nothing.
My question is can i use sunny 16 rules here?
Hi! No, you really have to use metering here as you have a sky and foreground exposure to deal with.
Just starting to learn photography. To start the first method, in order to see those readings and change the shutter speed, you set your camera to Manual or Tv? Sorry for this elementary question. Thank you for your videos.
Hi Luis! Don't ever worry about asking questions. Everyone needs to start somewhere :) Everything in the video tutorial is using manual mode.
Thank you very much!
Outstanding presentation!!
Thanks Eddie! I hope it helps out.
Thanks for this video julian best explanation ever ...
Appreciate that David! Hope that it helps and feel free to ask any questions on it.
Thanks a very clear intro to using grads I have just purchased
No problems Duncan. Glad it was helpful to you!
Great vid. What mode of metering was the camera set to? And were you in manual exposure?
Hi Ashley.
Yes, every metering mode was done in manual.
Brilliant. Well presented and simple to understand.
Hi Louis. Thanks for the kind comments. Hope it helps 👍
Great tutorial,I’m new to photography but I love it thanks for the help in understanding these filters
Thanks Dane! I hope that things are a lot clearer when it comes to how you use these filters.
Hello Julian, just observed that you have received more than 22,00 views. Well done indeed!
Hi Allan! Yes, very pleasing indeed. And subscribers are going up nicely too. Nearly up to 3000 :)
Great explanations. I've just received my filters and will try your methods out!
Thanks for stopping by Jeffrey! I hope my methods work for you. If you get stuck then let me know and I'll help out. I remember when they were first explained to me and the utterly useless information that followed left me struggling for a while.
Julian Elliott Photography I had very mixed results. I went to a nearby lake, and had real difficulty getting much of a delta between selecting a point on the lake and a point on the sky using center metering. My camera is a Olympus OM-D EM5II. I also couldn't really tell where the grad portion of the filter was and wasn't. I had no trouble whatsoever when I would put a ND filter in, my camera would register exactly the number of stops that the ND filter was rated for. So I ended up using the grad "creatively". I couldn't really complain about the results. I could see a real difference between using the soft grad, and not using it in the finished photo.
Morning Jeffrey! Water is always tricky as you're dealing with two skies. Try finding a way to isolate the land and meter that and then do the sky.
Be aware that normally the sky is about 1 stop brighter than the sky reflected in the water. A soft grad is ideal for lake scenes as it gently feathers in the sky reflection.
You couldn't see the grad? I feel your pain as when I started I had a Canon 350D and you could start nothing! But these days things have changed and live view is great for seeing the degradation when you slide the grad down.
Your Olympus "apparently" has a way of assigning a button as the Depth of Field preview. Find out how you do this; press the button to stop down the lens and when you are sliding in the grad it will be a lot more visible as to what you're doing :)
While I did try to use the DOF preview, I think one of the problems with seeing the impact of the grad on m4/3 sensor is that I try to limit myself to apperatures larger than f/8 to avoid diffraction distortion. That just might be too bright to see the 1-3 stop difference on a EVF.
Hi Jeffrey. Sorry for not replying earlier. It's been hectic here. Having never used the micro 4 3rds system I can't say either way on that one. I know on my Canon's it's pretty obvious when you slide in the grad what it's doing.
Julian thank you for this, you are a patient teacher and very helpful, and you are very right, when you say that some people want to make this matter harder than it actually is, I personally prefer the first method you demonstrated, only because I struggle to recall exactly what to do with the last method, when out in the field, is there someway you could make an "cheat sheet" in Word or whatever that could then be printed, just outlining the steps in bullet points perhaps.....I ld certainly carry it in my bag.....enjoyed the video and wish you all the luck with future posts.
Hi Kelvin! Only just seen your comments and sorry for not responding earlier to this.
Yes, people do try and make things out harder than they are. It's because they are fearful of others knowing how the technique is done. But I don't subscribe to that nonsense!!!
The third method is absolutely the head scratcher in all of this as it reverts to proper metering skills. The second method less so but it's usually pretty reliable.
You should be OK with retaining the knowledge for the second method. I think the best way to retain is to not the shutter speeds on your camera and learn them by rote. That's what I did and it does stick. I promise you :)
Awesome tutorial !!! Keep doing the great work :)
Thanks for that Saswata! Sorry for not responding earlier. Only just come across your comments. Lockdown has given me the time to properly sort out the comments that I haven't responded to.
Hopefully you're still a subscriber and you found the video helped!
the best explanation i have ever seen thank you
Hi Sparky! Just came across your comment and seen that I hadn't responded to it. Thank you for the kind comments on my work. I hope that the explanation was useful at the time and was used to go effect :)
Found this tut via the Talk Photography forums! Very well exampled tutorial far better than some of the other guff out there! sub'd
Hi Mark. Thanks for that comment! I do try to give people the best information I can in tutorials. I've been there with people before where they try and hide what you need to carry out the job and it's frustrating. Welcome to the channel :)
Ho do you choose between soft, medium, hard and extra hard filters?
I’m only familiar with hard and soft grads.
The essence is that if you have quite a definite horizon such as a seascape then use hard grads. Mountains or hilly scenery then it’s soft.
Excellent and clear explanation. Thanks!
no problems and thank you for the feedback :)
I have a doubt. Can we achieve this HDR with exposure bracketing without using the grad filter? Please explain. Thanks
Yes, two exposures can yield enough detail to create the scene as you saw it. It then comes down to your own skills in Photoshop or indeed Lightroom.
How did you determine the 1/50th shutter speed? Did the camera calculate the shutter speed because you are in aperture priority mode?
Hi there. Depends which method you are referring to. if it's the 2nd method then I used aperture priority so the camera decided the settings.
Yes, I was referring to the second method. Thank you.
No problems Jaliye! Glad I could help :)
Hello Julian, well explained video !
But i was wondering when to use a very hard grad, a hard grad, a medium grad or a soft grad ?
Is there so much difference in those filters or is it just to sell more ? Which ones should you buy to get started with ?
Thanx
Siegfried
Hi Siegfried. I honestly can't answer the difference between all of them as I only use hard and soft grads.
When it comes to just those two think hard is a horizon that is very definite like at the coast. Soft is good for really hilly scenes/ mountains due to the uneven nature of the horizon.
Thanx for the answer Julian
Very good tutorial. Thanks for the information. 👍🏻
No problems. Glad to help.
Great instructions sir. Very well explained and done
Thank you tdubl007! It took a while to get everything as is but hopefully it's all clear :)
Clear and concise tutorial. Thanks.
Thank you. And if you get stuck I'll reply where I can :)
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
No problems Tony. Hope you got some use out of it!
I'm hoping that I get across how to correctly choose the ND grad filter. It wasn't easy trying to get everything explained so if you feel confused then do comment and ask for more detail and hopefully I can explain it and demystify the process of choosing a grad.
And as always a HUGE thanks to those of you that are new subscribers and to those that have already subscribed!!!
What's a good enough size for the Tokina 11-16mm? Is 100mm by 150mm good enough?
Hi there. I’m not familiar with the lens but I know that a few of the filter companies make bigger filters if there is a risk of severe vignette due to extreme angles.
@@JulianElliottPhotography Thank you. I was told I will have no problem with vignetting because my camera is not full frame. It's APS-C.
Im still not sure how to use nd grad filters im a slow learner can you help me thanks
Hi Paddy. Can you explain the part you don't get so that I can help you out :)
I don't wish to be presumptive but,....it's called a 'Graduated Neutral Density Filter'. Julian appeared to be getting these 4 words a little mixed up....confusing to the un-initiated!!
Hi Laurel. Thanks for commenting.
Well Lee Filters refer to them as Neutral Density Graduated Filters. Singh Ray call them Graduated ND Filters.
You pay's your money, you take your choice :)
Genius ! Thanks so much for sharing this 🤩👍
No problems Paul. Hopefully you found it useful.
@@JulianElliottPhotography absolutely, the way you approached the topic, with real world examples in the field was supremely helpful. Thanks for taking the time and effort to do this, it's fantastic 👍🤩
@@paulleith1190 appreciate that Paul! Having been there a long time ago and not being helped, I never forgot that. So I try to help where I can. And thanks for the follow on Instagram!
@@JulianElliottPhotography You're more than welcome, thanks and have an enjoyable weekend 👍
Well done. Very good explanation.
Thanks @Les Walton! The last one was hard to do and I'm still not happy with it. Still, it at least gives people the tools to succeed.
Very good vid thanks
So helpful. THANK YOU!
That's OK Lisa. Glad to help!
excellent. Subscribed. Best tutorial.
Hi there! Thank you for the nice comments👍 Glad it helps and appreciate the subscription.
I think this is the easiest method ....Thank you
does Lee ND Grads produces color cast?
Hi there! No, in general they don't. I say in general as some of the ND filters do have colour casts such as the Big Stopper.
Very informative video thanks
Thank you! Glad you liked it :)
very good explanation, Thanks
Thanks 67hassel! I hope it was nice and clear :)
great job. subscribed.
Thank you! If it helps then it's job done :)
Zone metering
Thanks for the info.
So helpful, thanks very much.
Thanks Lewis! No problems at all :)
very good thanks
Thanks for that Frank. Hope that you found it useful.
could you not use a 18% grey card for foreground exposure and not plus or minus any exposure.
Hi Dennis. That really depends on where you are and what you're looking at. You can do but when light is falling that 18% also starts becoming a different shade of grey.
Placing tones is very much old school and worth remembering. With the advent of things such as live view the technicalities of photography are fast disappearing.
The first method is very simple and better, in my opinion
Hi Paul. yes, it is the simplest and quickest. However it's good to learn the other techniques so you understand how the camera measures light.
beautiful ...thank you...
Thanks for that Stanley. Glad it was of help!
What top advice.
Thank you Robin. Glad it helped :)
sunrises are my problem i guess its a two shot solution for direct sun and a foreground
Hi @Gerard Ferry. Not necessarily. If you take a look at my vlog Loire Valley châteaux around Anjou - Montsoreau addendum the dawn shot was right into the sun. A 0.9 hard grad was used to get the resulting shot.
It very much depends on the scene you're shooting etc. Experiment but normally at dawn a 0.9 is the one. If the sky looks a little dark at the top you can also put a grad in upside down mimicking a reverse grad but this way gives you more control as you can mix and match soft and hard grads.
sun disc is often the problem a pleasing aesthetic is hit and miss for me and i see it so often where digital splurge occurs when there is direct sun
thank you !!
No problems. Hope it was useful!
makes sense A+
Thanks Lynn! Glad it was helpful to you
Why try to learn the hardest process when you can utilize the easiest procedure? I don't understand. Use the simplest way and don't complicate. The end result is the same, isn't it? :) . However, it is still very educational to learn all. Thank you for the effort.
Why? Because the hardest method teaches metering. A skill that is rapidly disappearing because of things such as live view and mirror less cameras. But also remember that there are a number of people out there who are returning to film. What if they only have experience of digital cameras and didn’t ever study metering?
Well the answer is the last method shows you how your camera meter is working. With mirror less cameras people are losing the skill of metering scenes properly.
100% no bullshit
Absolutely Leonard! I got fed up with people telling me crap when I first needed to learn them so here it is for everyone so that can learn the right way.
I find the whole concept completely pointless. Modern cameras have sooo much dynamic range three is zero need to introduce unnatural color cast and a piece of plastic in front of the lens.
photon_trap it very much depends on the application. They are invaluable for time lapse because the light can change drastically. And in any case not all camera bodies are equal. Sony is well known for its dynamic range above Canon.
I have and still use a 5D Mark II. It in no way can fully capture the whole dynamic range of a high contrast scene without resorting to image blending. So what's the solution? Two. Grads or blending. Some people like grads and some like blending.
You really should have just voiced this over. Lost me at 35 seconds.
That's a shame but a tutorial like this can't just be voiced over.
I just watched you explaining your first method using live view then decided not to watch the rest of your video.. You are even worse than others on explaining how to choose the right NDG filter..Sorry.
Hi Roi. Then you should watch the rest because you’ll find I give the exact information you need to correctly choose a grad using spot metering.