Phaetus Rapido Hotend + Tungsten Nozzle + High Temperature Carbon Fiber Nylon Filament
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 พ.ค. 2024
- Affiliate links
Paetus Rapido Hotend:
amzn.to/3ttkaXD
Klemco Mount (Used to adapt Ender 3 style hotend mount to J-Head type for the Rapido):
amzn.to/2PEDujO
Discord Channel:
/ discord
Sopport me on Patreon:
/ 64996357
Special thanks to Phaetus for sending me an advanced copy of their latest Rapido Hotend. Could this be the future of hotend design?
This can be installed on an Ender 3, Voxelab Aquila, or Artillery Hornet to improve print speed and increase the maximum printing temperature.
If you need help configuring the hotend in firmware, ask me in the discord and I can send you some instructions. It took hours for me to get it right.
More affiliate links:
Artillery Hornet:
amzn.to/3Cym6kS
Blue Painter's Tape:
amzn.to/3IHcya5
UHU Glue Stick:
amzn.to/3dL0BSx
Here is some information you might find useful:
1. Rapido Thermistor：104NT-4-R025H42G
2. Nozzle Heat Tightening：285℃ with 2.5Nm Torch
amzn.to/3ttkaXD
3. The temperature of copper plated nozzle and hardend steel nozzle could be up to 500℃
First Look: (0:00)
Volcano Nozzle Swap: (0:55)
Tungsten Nozzle: (2:35)
Carbon Fiber Filament: (3:42)
Strength Testing: (4:32)
Large CF Print: (5:53)
Overall Impression: (6:25)
Print Quality: (6:55)
Final Thoughts: (8:50) - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
wow, impressive nozzle setup.
Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍🙂
Just want to say that I love the ”just gonna touch the motor with those two electric wires”-attitude! 😎🙌🏻
Brilliant idea with the magnets!!
Much better review quality. Impressive carbon fiber filament, too. All in all a good video.
Thanks! I've got a bunch of videos queued up and ready to post over the holiday break, so stay tuned for more!
Good Video. I found this looking for ways to mount the Rapido to the APUS extruder on my Rat Rig. I also used the Phaetus Carbon Fiber filament at 300 on my OmniaDrop extruder on the Rat Rig for replacement parts on the motion system. The parts are like they were printed in metal. It is hard to clean them up, but worth it.
Glad i came across this video, was having trouble finding any information on this guy and was very curious, looked into it earlier today, found hardly anything, but i came across your hotend selection video, was impressed, looked through your others and saw you covered this guy, now i know what id like to save for lol, it can do fine quality, speed, and extremely hot temperatures, and i would love to have a shot at printing some PEEK at some point
Yes but hold your horses a bit. Apparently the thermistor they installed is only rated up to 280C, so they need to update their design with a high temperature thermistor or thermocouple. I'm OK with pushing print tempos to 300C for now, but I'm worried what would happen if I tried to go to PEEK temperatures (~400 C)
I heard a high temperature thermistor version is in the works, so I'd wait for that.
Hello and thank you for the review! I would like to ask something, if you do not mind. The rapido hotend says 115W. What is that like compared to, lets say, a v6? I mean, using this hotend would mean a need to upgrade the PSU?
Magnet is a neat trick. I use optical end stop, with a printed blade hanging on it. The Z bed has a screw to adjust when bed pushes blade into the optical sensor.
Yeah, the magnet isn't ideal since it can come loose or have a random nut or bolt stick to it. Just trying different things with what I had on hand.
Dude can we have a "my 5 favorite hotends to the day kind of video"? Love your videos!!!!
That was a great video!
Thanks!
Are the connections for the heatblock and thermistor the same ones on the ender 3, or did you solder your own connections?
Awesome vid. Is that a spacer you used for the volcano nozzle? Just interested in seeing a volcano in a smaller heat block
Yeah, you can buy it with the Phaetus rapido, or get it separately in this kit:
www.3djake.com/phaetus/rapido-uhf-upgrade-kit
Oh my god, I love the masking tape fan duct! Hahaha.
I am definitely thinking of getting this, but I saw they had the TaiChi version. I really don't see it being sold anywhere.
can i use the PT1000 version of rapido on an skr mini e3 v1.2 without an amplifier board ?
I have the rapido,but I also have both versions of the CHC heater blocks, Both smaller and larger and a couple of the volcano nozzle adapters. Thinking of attaching one to the other and see how it goes.
I bought both CHC blocks too. I haven't put them on anything yet, but they look serious.
Can we use a 0.4mm nozzle for HF and UHF version? Can you suggest where can i purchase 0.4mm tungsten nozzle
What board are u using? I'm trying to install this on a 4.2.7 running th3d unified 2 firmware (basically Marlin 2), but can't get the Hotend to heat up
Great video!
Thanks Stefan!
It appears that the rapido isn't covered by Slice Engineering's patent, so they can still use the screws to fix the hotend to the heatsink and enable one hand nozzle swap.
This is justm15% CF. Imagine 25% quality CF Nylon. Even a skinny part can't be bent by a grown man's hands.
It has about the same tensile strength as Aluminum. Aluminum is pretty easy to bend and break if it's a pencil thickness or less, but scaled up to a 20x20mm beam, like the aluminum extrusion used on many 3D printers, and it is quite strong. It all has to do with thickness. Even PLA is impossible to break by hand if it's thick enough (say a 2"x2" solid beam)
That looks like itd work great on my 2 filament bowden machine... they selling these? I could run just about anything on either of my machines, though I do a lot of ABS, so really accurate heat levels is a MUST. This would add some serious control and really let me keep that core temp up as it extruder so the layer adhesion stays high.
It's a great hotend, I could definitely recommend it. Haven't printed much ABS but I imagine it would work well.
There is an alternative, look up CHC ceramic hotend by trianglelabs. I just ordered a few to try out.
I saw you ask in another video if you can replace the thermsitor. May I ask if you already try it out and have an answer?
Still don't know, haven't bothered to check.
Hey Nathan,
I came across this video while looking for any info on that Phaetus Tungsten Carbide nozzle. I own a CR10-S upgraded to a MicroSwiss Direct drive and been considering getting a tungsten carbide nozzle for printing CF filled filaments (PLA or PETG). While I won't require to print anything around 300°C anytime soon, I like the idea of getting a nozzle that will potentially outlast the printer itself. I can't quite find the info on the construction of the nozzle. As in, what parts are actually made from carbide tungsten? The tip for sure but what about the inner walls higher up? Is the outside brass which is simply plated? And even if you don't happen to know, could you please share how it performed for you since this video? Have you printed more highly abrasive filaments with it since and how did it hold up?
All the best from Cologne, Germany!
Thanks,
The nozzle is plated copper with a central tungsten carbide insert.
This produces better heat transfer than a pure tungsten nozzle. The nozzle tip is where most of the wear occurs, since it rubs against the carbon fibers as it is printing.
I have used it to print 2 spools of PLA since the video. It's holding up well.
Check out cnc Kitchen's videos on nozzle wear and look at the primary wear locations. It's all around the tip, not so much wear happens deeper inside the nozzle, so the copper should be fine.
If wear did occur higher up in the nozzle you'd have to worry about the heat break wearing through, since it is so thin. But thankfully that doesn't really happen.
Nathan: Why don’t you snap?
ae carbon: Carbon fibre reinforcements, son. They strengthen in response to to tensile load. You can’t break me, Nathan!
*attempts again with more amps on the motor
ae Carbon: What did I just say?
Carbon fiber Nylon: DID I STUTTER?
I am glad you got yours working, I can't get the filament to melt (PETG) I tried all the way up to 260c and it seems like just stop right before the heater block. I must of got a lemon.
A really common issue with these more advanced designs, where they press-fit thin steel tubing into solid blocks of metal, is there can be a lip that catches the filament, making it very hard to feed into.
I have had this issue with several products from Phaetus and Slice Engineering. Unfortunately, companies these days prefer to ship more units rather than doing proper Quality Control. I'll be releasing a video on Quality control soon, so stay tuned for that.
Your best bet is to get a refund if possible.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Your awesome, I took it apart and at the top of the tube it was lipped inwared. I was able to fix it and now it can push filament through. Your right it is a QA issue, I got my son one and had the same issue 2 for 2 bad QA.
@@chrisc9213 interesting, so it sounds like the cutting process may have left a dent. That gives me an idea of how to fix the mosquito hotend I have that has some catching issues. Would be nice if they flared out the end of the tube after cutting top get nice clean edges.
Impressive! ...and now imagine a tungsten CHT nozzle!
Bondtech will be releasing a hardened steel nozzle soon. Maybe they'll try tungsten next?
@@NathanBuildsRobots Preorder link when?!?!?!
@@sonichedgehog36 I'll make a video about it when I get one. Haven't heard much on the release date, maybe they ran into a production snag
Got a roll of Phaetus's UltraPA as well. Came out dry and printed well without needing to dry it unlike my other spool from eSun. Seems like eSun only ships wet spools.
Yeah, I did a review of some Sainsmart filament. It was wet to start out, and even after drying it was barely stronger than PLA.
I think I could get better results with more tuning, but the Phaetus stuff just works.
Very nice, is there a tutorial anywhere that shows how to adapt to and ender 3 with CR touch. I am still relatively new to 3D printing, but just knowledgeable enough to be dangerous, so I still require a good tutorial on occasion, but I have been looking to upgrade my hotend for sometime now ever since I switched to a .6 nozzle and fell in love with the faster print times and print quality.
This video looks pretty thorough on the CR-Touch
th-cam.com/video/CCyTEttj8sk/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=MandicReally
I think 0.6 is the sweet spot for speed, and 0.4 is the best for print quality.
I'm going to be trying out one of these hotends from Maxiwatt soon, its a lot cheaper. I doubt it will be as good as the rapido, but its at a great price point.
amzn.to/328EOSq
@@NathanBuildsRobots yes, I've used that video before to set up my current CR Touch, I meant one where someone is using this hotend and a CR touch, I'll keep looking and post here if I do.
I used a Klemco Mount:
amzn.to/2PEDujO
It has rails on the sides to mount accessories. The nice part about the design is it lets you easily adjust the height of any accessories you attach. I think the normal BL-Touch mount should work, as long as the hole patterns are the same between the CR-Touch and the BL-Touch. Otherwise you'd have to create a CAD model of the model yourself, or use Autodesk Meshmixer, which is a super fun program btw.
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4117436
@@NathanBuildsRobots Ahhhh, ok, I got ya, very nice.Thank you very much.
@@NathanBuildsRobots how do you connect the hotend to the creality mobo?
I wanna use this for 300mm/s 40k acceleration with 2 clearpath servos I have would I handle that ?
I bet it would. You can also buy a CHC heater block, which is essentially just the ceramic hotend part. But the heatsink is nice, so I think it's a pretty good package overall.
Hi there! What parameters did you add in the fw for the thermistor? :)
It ran fine with without changing firmware.
I updated it to use a different thermistor profile later, look at 3:18
I think it underreports by about 10C when at printing temperatures now, because the thermistor profile might not be a perfect match. I'm not sure though. Kind of guessing here, but I always tell it to run a little hotter to compensate.
I would be very careful running the hotend over the rated maximum of 285C for the thermistor. It's for sure the biggest downfall of the hotend. It can "work," but I personally wouldn't do it frequently. Other than that, nice review! Cool to see more coverage of the rapido
Is there a thermistor you would recommend? I'm considering swapping out the thermistor so I can print really hot stuff, like 400C+
@@NathanBuildsRobots you can’t swap it out on the rapido since it’s built into that “heater core.” We’ve been trying to work on Phaetus/TL to make a high temperature version with a PT1000 or similar
@@xsolar I just bought one of these to try out. The thermistor looks easily removable.
amzn.to/32aJIhy
@@NathanBuildsRobots those look interesting, but I’ve heard they have their issues as well. Not exactly sure what they are tho. Just always been told they’re questionable haha
@@NathanBuildsRobots ah yeah also, I saw you mention it in another comment. Phaetus and TL are actually just resellers. The actual hotends are made by another company and they’re OEMed by Phaetus and TL. Generally, the Phaetus versions are better quality, but only slightly
So if it's a tungsten nozzle with a tool steel insert, it should wear just like a tool steel nozzle, even if it has the heat transfer of tungsten. Not sure that is worth the price premium.
I think it is tungsten carbide insert embedded in a copper base. Probably not worth it for most people, unless you find yourself printing a lot of high temp carbon fiber filaments.
For most of my use cases I prefer the CHT nozzles. I just want fast printing at 200C-300C.
standard nozzle will work ? what is the blue tap is it? and what glue you use ? how is the ABS working with this setup any wrap ?
It uses the standard V6 nozzle.
Where did I glue it?
Havent used ABS but it should work.
@@NathanBuildsRobots the glue you called the magic glue you put on the blue tape
@@NathanBuildsRobots when you put that v6 volcano on that rapido is it on the Ultra high flow mode ?
@@EnergySeeker Oh, that is UHU Glue stick. I think its a german brand but I could get it here in the states on Amazon
@@EnergySeeker yeah its supposed to extrude faster like that
Tungsten carbide or tungsten alloy?
Is it better than hardened steel?
Yes, it is harder and more thermally conductive. Tungsten carbide inserted into a DLC coated copper body I think.
I guess I'll have to return my 4 euro e3d nozzle x haha for my rapido plus uhf
Do you have a tungsten recommendation?
It's actually a steel body and TC insert. For that Phaetus nozzle.
Which power is the heater?
External MOSFET is need?
The power draw is 115W.
I didn't use an external mosfet.
I will check the temperature of the mosfet next time I'm printing. It is probably fine though. On my Ender 3000 build I am running 140W heater cartridge on a single stock mosfet and it doesn't get hot at all. A heated bed draws 220W, most boards use 2 mosfet in parallel to drive the heated bed, so the load is about 110W each - pretty similar to what the rapido draws.
Be aware that the thermistor will limit you to around 290c
Above it might degrade quickly
Phaetus is working on an improved version to remedy this!
Do you know of a way to replacethe thermistor? I may have to go Rambo on it.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Go Rambo, Nathan. Go bloody Rambo.
There is now a PT1000 version of the Rapido, since PT thermistors can handle temperatures over 800C, handling 300C is trivial for them.
@@kerbodynamicx472 hell yeah, I won't one!
@@kerbodynamicx472 trianglelab quotes 350C for the PT 1000 version, likely due to insulation not being able to take more so...
CF embedded nylon etc works better with bigger nozzles of 0.6mm and up. CF strands need the space to lay down evenly.
Interesting idea to test out!
Does the rapido connect directly to the ender 3 board no problem? Same voltage?
Yes, the one I got was 24V
It plugs in the same as any other heater block, 4 wires: 2 for the heater block and 2 for the thermistor
@@NathanBuildsRobots thanks! I went ahead and bought it.
@@rauldelgadillo8447 cool!
This must have been before the TAP Z HOMING SYSTEM
Was the hammer good for anything after? :)
I have used it to tap on some stuff! It's not super heavy but sometimes you just need a little tap.
What's the max temp of the hotend I got one coming just want to know for firmware reasons
1. Rapido Thermistor：104NT-4-R025H42G (which has a specified as having a max temp of 280C, though I'm running it at 300-320.
2. Nozzle Heat Tightening：285℃ with 2.5Nm Torch
3. The temperature of copper plated nozzle and hardend steel nozzle could be up to 500.
I used thermistor profile 61 in marlin.
The tool you used to remove the brim on the CF nylon. What's it called?
Its a deburring tool. I talk about it on my latest video at the 4:35 mark
th-cam.com/video/zBEFY04xeuY/w-d-xo.html
amzn.to/3qfkqHj
@@NathanBuildsRobots thanks! great video!
The tip might be tungsten carbide. That would explain the magnetism.
The nozzle is a copper alloy with a tungsten carbide tip and then the whole thing is nickel plated and then DLC coated on top of it all
What solar said. Didn't know about the DLC
If you dont want temperature fluctuation, PID tune the hotend
Looks similar to the original Printrbot hotend
I still have my old printrbot. That ubis hotend was really slow though. Mine can only do 1-2 mm3/s. I'm planning on putting a new hotend on it, would be funny to also put Klipper on there and get it printing super fast.
What is the total weight of the complete hotend?
Its probably 500g, could go down to 450g with a pancake stepper motor.
The phaetus Rapido contributes very little to the overall mass
I didnt really build this thing for light weight, but it could be made to be quite light.
Where can I get the tungsten nozzle?
I don't think it has been officially released yet.
www.phaetus.com/tungsten-carbide-nozzle/
All I could find on Amazon was this one, which is a different brand.
amzn.to/3s6WwjV
You do scary things with electricity....bad
I am sorry. I did not mean to frighten the electricity.
You demonstrate a poor printing quality. Why would anybody want that?
It's what happens when you test crazy high flow rates.
Sometimes print quality is less important than print speed.
Specifically, I do a lot of mechanical prototyping for work. Being able to crank out a large 1kg 3D printed assembly the same day is very valuable to me.
But your print was terrible!
The volcano prints were just OK in terms of print quality. I was purely looking at volumetric throughput of the volcano nozzle.
Since then I've made some very nice prints using PLA and the tungsten nozzle at normal print speeds.