UGH! Wish I knew about stand alone mode before trying to mess with all the SPI jumpers! It was such a mess I just replaced the whole board with a Duet 2 Wifi! :D I learn so much from your videos! Thanks, Chris!
Good info..I knew the ms1,2,3 jumpers must have been useful somehow but for spreadcycle I ignored them and soldered a bridge instead..this way is a lot more cleaner and professional. Thanks Chris.
Nice video Chris. You fill a nice space in 3D printing. You always provide enough useful info on these topics. It's great that you did not stop at one video with the TMC drivers. These are very versatile boards.
Thanks for doing this video! I replaced the drivers on my Tevo Tornado with TMC2130s but when I changed it in Marlin to reflect that I got an odd error message about an undefined variable at compile time. My copy of Marlin didn't have the nice comment line above the entries with possible choices so I never tried the STANDALONE mode. I used that today and it compiled and loaded right away! Now to see what the results are...
Thank you for extensive explanation. This clears a lot. Do you know if 2209 can be connected same way? I do not need the fancy stuff - just standalone operation. Ramps board of course.
Thanks for watching! Yes, you can run the 2209 in standalone. Depending on which driver board you buy, there should be a solder pad to select which mode.
Just got a box of random (mostly broken) 3D printer parts, the nice surprise was that there was an unused MKS Gen-L v1.0 board with A49988 drivers (Oh well, can't get everything for free ;) ) among the stuff. Definitely will install that in my Ender 3. Will probably replace the drivers for 2130 or 2208's though, what would be your suggestion? Is it worth the hassle of doing the wiring etc to get software control of the drivers?
I did everything as shown in the video and my TMC2130 BTT was working for a few weeks without any problem in standalone mode. Suddenly both X and Y axis which are runingTMC2130 just stop working. I tried to put back A4988 on the board and it's working properly. If anyone has some suggestions what could happen to TMC2130 and what can I check?
The only thing I can think of is the 2130's hit some sort of thermal issue. If you want to try it again, I suggest getting some 2209's they will run much cooler and shouldn't cause a problem.
Thanks Michel! That's exactly what I was thinking. I could test 2208's or show how to use 2130's. Stealthchop is a little better on the 2208, but 2130's will still work for most machines.
5:30 You should ground the CFG1 pin (not CFG2). I also ground CFG0 to reduce the "whistling" sound of the driver.7:04 The jumpers only affects pins that ARE plugged into these slots. You completely got that reversed
@ 9:45 (example of motor being driven on the table). Is there a reason why that axis stalls, and hesitates ? I watched it a few times since I thought youtube video was lagging.
Nice work Chris... Thank you very much. Sadly that doesn't solve any of the issues I had with the TMC2130 drivers. Is there any way to contact you and explain in detail what I'm encoutered/discoverd?
On my Hypercube Evo I had to *really* dial down jerk and acceleration in Stealthchop to avoid missed steps but Spreadcycle works a treat (although I do get the 12v whistle so I could do with a 24v Vmot feed). I know you want to move on but I would be interested in seeing something on sensorless homing, especially on a corexy machine. I have heard that, due to the mix in xy kinematics for a corexy, stallguard is difficult to config.
These 2130 videos are great with lots of detail. I built my own Log last year but my family hates the noise. I'm going to try the 2130s and see if that helps. The only other complaint I have with my Log is the cheap build plate and blue tape I'm using. Yours is using a genuine Prusa but do you have any recommendations for a cheap alternative?
Great info Chris, Before your videos it wasn't easy understanding all about the 2130s, now I know just about all I need to for when I put them on the Borg. Not sure what board to use yet though, ideally I'd like to go 32bit, any suggestions please.
@@ChrisRiley The Duet Maestro is what I've been leaning towards. Although I won't have the 2130s so will loose out on sensorless homing, the rest is superb from what I've learnt. Think I'll go with it. Thanks Chris
Holy-O-Hell, man!!! This is some great information here. This may help me to figure out why I had to change my E-Steps from 97 to 262 when switching from the Melzi stock Ender 3 board to the MKS Gen L v1.0 board a little while back. Now, why don't I have to re-calibrate X and Y for new steps?
@@ChrisRiley I managed to run it with library: github.com/teemuatlut/TMC2130Stepper However not all sample codes worked because codes are written with AVR support and ESP8266 does not support it. I will try it with Arduino Nano next.
You said for SpreadCycle in standalone mode put CFG2 to GND, but the sheet actually says CFG1 to GND. Oh and btw. if you have a Stepper with pins facing up and down, make sure to leave CFG0 open as well (Anycubic i3 Mega and others with the TriGorilla board has all jumpers hard wired to VCC). When you leave CFG0 to VCC as I did the first time, then the current setting on the potentiometer will be very low and the driver won't work properly.
Chris , my TMC2130 boards came with a diode across the SPI solder points . How do I know which mode that means? ? have you seen this? Amazon "BIGTREETECH" Also it came with pins already soldered. the SPI pins are long and protrude both directions. Do I have to trim the end going into my Rumba board?
I haven't seen that before, but it sounds like they are ready for SPI mode. Are the pins to long for the board? I wouldn't think you would have to trim them.
@@ChrisRiley the pins are 15mm long. So they protrude out the top and bottom. So they go into the socket in my rumba board and also above the tmc driver. I have dip switches on my Rumba so should I turn them all off if I want to use SPI mode? or just cut the header pins off that go into the MB socket. By the way, great videos and thanks for responding so quickly. my 8825's are skipping on both of my home made printers. Summer temperatures I guess. The "diode" as i called it, has continuity in both directions so .. not a diode just a jumper. So I have removed it to use SPI Mode.
I guess I am not following. Some of the companies that sell these drivers do different things. So you have all the down pins and the up pins? You shouldn't need to trim the pins, just make sure all the MS jumpers are off. I should still work. Again, there are a lot of different ways companies set up these stepper boards.
Chris on a different subject. If a person buys a Prusa i3 mk3 3d printer motherboard cloned Einsy Rambo 1.1 main board kit from china aliexpress has them for around $72 bucks. Can the board have its firware updated from the Prusa web site ? Or would the clone board require other firmware to be loaded ?
I love Ramps but I wish there were a design that had connectors on the outside of the board instead of wires having to come in from the top. Also a version designed for tmc's.
there is a bit more to it, there are tiny solder pads for CFG4 and CFG5, for standalone, CFG4->GND and CFG5->VIO, that makes it work like a 2100...otherwise it's not fully standalone configured -- those pads are super tiny
@@ChrisRiley look at the data sheet. CFG4 & CFG5 need to be configured correctly for SPI vs standalone, and switching them around is not easy. This was the big deal with Fystech 2130 V1 drivers, they came pre-configured in standalone mode, you can still find them on ebay and aliexpress etc. To make them work in SPI you had to change 3 soldered jumpers on the bottom of the driver, and flip the soldered pins, not a fun exercise. I've done it with a micro-soldering workstation with a microscope. Going back to standalone would be just as frustrating, it's a miss-configured state leaving those 2 pads left in SPI mode. I wouldn't run this driver half configured, and I see no reason to run it as standalone since 2100 is cheaper and requires no modifications (besides setting the chop vs spread cycle microstepping selection). My suspicion is that Fystech did what they did with V1 drivers because those ICs failed SPI mode -- were rejects from watterott, so Fystech bought them up to make 2130s in standalone and sell them to people who don't know better, btw 2 out of the 4 v1 fystech boards I converted failed to work in SPI mode -- which leads me to that conclusion since they all were done the same way.
I have read that sheet many times. On a Watterott driver CFG4 is set to GND and CFG5 is set to VIO by default. Do you think CHOPPER HYSTERESIS set to 5, CHOPPER BLANK TIME set to 24 causes issues?
@@ChrisRiley Looks like you get better chopper functionality at 16, but YMMV. The only practical reason to run it in standalone is to forego chopping and use 16x spread cycle with interpolation, then those pads don't matter. I would think if you're using this chip to get best chopping options -- then you'd configure it to do that -- or use SPI and adjust the timings/hysteresis that way. Those are heavily dependent on your stepper/load/speed, voltage.
You are correct and as always we use terms we should not. When I say genuine, I am referring to the Waterott Electronic version. Great point, thank you.
hi chris - that squeal (idle whine) from spreadcycle can be removed - I had the same issue with my anet a8 steppers th-cam.com/video/0OFpiJAMYZQ/w-d-xo.html I had to set myne down to 2 but the settings in this should work for you. Stealthchop is nice but not "great" for high speeds and Spreadcycle is still a lot quieter than standard a4988 or drv8825.
i think it's better not to solder these pins at all. the upside facing pins block placement of a big fat heatsink on top These heatsinks work like a charm: www.watterott.com/de/Kuehlkoerper-9-x-9-x-12
![เจ็บที่ยังฮัก - ม่อน วรวิทย์ [ Official Mv ] จอนนี่มิวสิค](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KALIGSRSjFs/mqdefault.jpg)
So useful, and brilliantly explained. Thank you. I wish I'd found this about 4 hours ago!
Nice! I am glad it was helpful.
UGH! Wish I knew about stand alone mode before trying to mess with all the SPI jumpers! It was such a mess I just replaced the whole board with a Duet 2 Wifi! :D I learn so much from your videos! Thanks, Chris!
Thanks Chad! I should have mentioned this when we talked about 2130's a while back.
@@ChrisRiley it's all good! Loving the Duet so far! :D
Good info..I knew the ms1,2,3 jumpers must have been useful somehow but for spreadcycle I ignored them and soldered a bridge instead..this way is a lot more cleaner and professional. Thanks Chris.
Thanks Fred, glad to help.
Nice video Chris. You fill a nice space in 3D printing. You always provide enough useful info on these topics. It's great that you did not stop at one video with the TMC drivers. These are very versatile boards.
Thanks John, great to hear. I agree, these are neat little drivers for sure.
Thanks Chris, I followed your lead and installed some TMC2130s on my ramps board (X&Y only) with no hassle!
Awesome! Glad to hear you had success, a lot of people struggle with these.
Great visit on the stand alone and various comparisons ! Keep up the great work Chris
Thanks Ron, in the sea of comments these kind really do help keep me positive.
Thanks for doing this video! I replaced the drivers on my Tevo Tornado with TMC2130s but when I changed it in Marlin to reflect that I got an odd error message about an undefined variable at compile time. My copy of Marlin didn't have the nice comment line above the entries with possible choices so I never tried the STANDALONE mode. I used that today and it compiled and loaded right away! Now to see what the results are...
Very nice! Glad it helped you out.
Amazing video! I wish i saw this before! Keep up that great work!
Thanks, glad you like the content.
Thank you for extensive explanation. This clears a lot. Do you know if 2209 can be connected same way? I do not need the fancy stuff - just standalone operation. Ramps board of course.
Thanks for watching! Yes, you can run the 2209 in standalone. Depending on which driver board you buy, there should be a solder pad to select which mode.
Just got a box of random (mostly broken) 3D printer parts, the nice surprise was that there was an unused MKS Gen-L v1.0 board with A49988 drivers (Oh well, can't get everything for free ;) ) among the stuff. Definitely will install that in my Ender 3. Will probably replace the drivers for 2130 or 2208's though, what would be your suggestion? Is it worth the hassle of doing the wiring etc to get software control of the drivers?
I would not hassle with 2130's unless you need sensor-less homing. Go 2208.
I did everything as shown in the video and my TMC2130 BTT was working for a few weeks without any problem in standalone mode. Suddenly both X and Y axis which are runingTMC2130 just stop working. I tried to put back A4988 on the board and it's working properly. If anyone has some suggestions what could happen to TMC2130 and what can I check?
The only thing I can think of is the 2130's hit some sort of thermal issue. If you want to try it again, I suggest getting some 2209's they will run much cooler and shouldn't cause a problem.
Good tutorial!
We could use TMC2208 in Standalone Mode to get StealthChop2™.
Thanks for sharing :)
Thanks Michel! That's exactly what I was thinking. I could test 2208's or show how to use 2130's. Stealthchop is a little better on the 2208, but 2130's will still work for most machines.
Good information! Another Great Video... Thanks!
Thanks Mike!
5:30 You should ground the CFG1 pin (not CFG2). I also ground CFG0 to reduce the "whistling" sound of the driver.7:04 The jumpers only affects pins that ARE plugged into these slots. You completely got that reversed
I thought I fixed that, I did misspeak there, I think I make that clear enough later.
@ 9:45 (example of motor being driven on the table).
Is there a reason why that axis stalls, and hesitates ? I watched it a few times since I thought youtube video was lagging.
Good catch, you can hear me in the back ground clicking the mouse. I was just hitting the 100 button a couple of times to make the moves.
Nice work Chris... Thank you very much. Sadly that doesn't solve any of the issues I had with the TMC2130 drivers. Is there any way to contact you and explain in detail what I'm encoutered/discoverd?
Yes, you can email me at brotherchris81@gmail.com
@@ChrisRiley Thank you! I just sent you an email
Gr8 tutorial. Keep up the good work.
Thanks Rodryk!
What filament did you use on LOG? I dig the color..
The blue is transparent blue Prusa ABS (before Prusament)
On my Hypercube Evo I had to *really* dial down jerk and acceleration in Stealthchop to avoid missed steps but Spreadcycle works a treat (although I do get the 12v whistle so I could do with a 24v Vmot feed).
I know you want to move on but I would be interested in seeing something on sensorless homing, especially on a corexy machine. I have heard that, due to the mix in xy kinematics for a corexy, stallguard is difficult to config.
Yeah, corxy seems to be very intense when it comes to driving motors. If I do another corexy build I will look into it for sure.
You rock man, thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching Martin!
These 2130 videos are great with lots of detail. I built my own Log last year but my family hates the noise. I'm going to try the 2130s and see if that helps. The only other complaint I have with my Log is the cheap build plate and blue tape I'm using. Yours is using a genuine Prusa but do you have any recommendations for a cheap alternative?
Gulf coast robotics seems to have a lot of build plates. Prices seem to be okay.
Great info Chris, Before your videos it wasn't easy understanding all about the 2130s, now I know just about all I need to for when I put them on the Borg. Not sure what board to use yet though, ideally I'd like to go 32bit, any suggestions please.
It's going to be hard to beat Duet....if you want to start lower priced I would grab a MKS 32 bit and some nice drivers. 2208's maybe.
You could also try using an old mega + ramps and give 32 bit performance with kipper firmware and a raspberry.
@@ChrisRiley The Duet Maestro is what I've been leaning towards. Although I won't have the 2130s so will loose out on sensorless homing, the rest is superb from what I've learnt. Think I'll go with it. Thanks Chris
@@rodryk5605 Indeed, I had considered that but I want to go with true 32bit this time. Appreciate your input though.
Holy-O-Hell, man!!! This is some great information here. This may help me to figure out why I had to change my E-Steps from 97 to 262 when switching from the Melzi stock Ender 3 board to the MKS Gen L v1.0 board a little while back. Now, why don't I have to re-calibrate X and Y for new steps?
That's odd, only thing I can figure is the microsteps changed.
hello! i have a question, if i transformed my ramps 1.4 to 24 v which will be the value of v ref for this voltage? is it the same? thank u very much!
Yes, it should be the same.
can I connect TMC2130 to ESP8266 via SPI without motherboard?
That I don't know. I would think it would take some sort of break out board with power to do that.
@@ChrisRiley I managed to run it with library: github.com/teemuatlut/TMC2130Stepper
However not all sample codes worked because codes are written with AVR support and ESP8266 does not support it. I will try it with Arduino Nano next.
You said for SpreadCycle in standalone mode put CFG2 to GND, but the sheet actually says CFG1 to GND. Oh and btw. if you have a Stepper with pins facing up and down, make sure to leave CFG0 open as well (Anycubic i3 Mega and others with the TriGorilla board has all jumpers hard wired to VCC). When you leave CFG0 to VCC as I did the first time, then the current setting on the potentiometer will be very low and the driver won't work properly.
Thanks for the info, it's been so long I don't even remember how all this goes.
How can make TMC2130 run Full Step (200 STEP/Rev)? All videos speak about 16 micro step only
You might be able to find something here!
learn.watterott.com/silentstepstick/faq/
Chris , my TMC2130 boards came with a diode across the SPI solder points . How do I know which mode that means? ? have you seen this? Amazon "BIGTREETECH" Also it came with pins already soldered. the SPI pins are long and protrude both directions. Do I have to trim the end going into my Rumba board?
I haven't seen that before, but it sounds like they are ready for SPI mode. Are the pins to long for the board? I wouldn't think you would have to trim them.
@@ChrisRiley the pins are 15mm long. So they protrude out the top and bottom. So they go into the socket in my rumba board and also above the tmc driver. I have dip switches on my Rumba so should I turn them all off if I want to use SPI mode? or just cut the header pins off that go into the MB socket. By the way, great videos and thanks for responding so quickly. my 8825's are skipping on both of my home made printers. Summer temperatures I guess. The "diode" as i called it, has continuity in both directions so .. not a diode just a jumper. So I have removed it to use SPI Mode.
I guess I am not following. Some of the companies that sell these drivers do different things. So you have all the down pins and the up pins? You shouldn't need to trim the pins, just make sure all the MS jumpers are off. I should still work. Again, there are a lot of different ways companies set up these stepper boards.
Chris on a different subject. If a person buys a Prusa i3 mk3 3d printer motherboard cloned Einsy Rambo 1.1 main board kit from china
aliexpress has them for around $72 bucks. Can the board have its firware updated from the Prusa web site ? Or would the clone board require other firmware to be loaded ?
I bought such a clone and was able to flash the latest Prusa firmware from their website.
But with clones, it's always a bit of a gamble.
Thank you. Its good to know it worked for you. So might be worth trying on my printer project I have in mind.
@@Robothut @modderman1985 Great to know, thank you!
4:55: that poor chip got a bit of soldering action too
He'll be ok.
Nice Video!
Thanks!
I love Ramps but I wish there were a design that had connectors on the outside of the board instead of wires having to come in from the top. Also a version designed for tmc's.
Take a look at the 1.6+, it says it has all this installed.
there is a bit more to it, there are tiny solder pads for CFG4 and CFG5, for standalone, CFG4->GND and CFG5->VIO, that makes it work like a 2100...otherwise it's not fully standalone configured -- those pads are super tiny
Interesting.
@@ChrisRiley look at the data sheet. CFG4 & CFG5 need to be configured correctly for SPI vs standalone, and switching them around is not easy. This was the big deal with Fystech 2130 V1 drivers, they came pre-configured in standalone mode, you can still find them on ebay and aliexpress etc. To make them work in SPI you had to change 3 soldered jumpers on the bottom of the driver, and flip the soldered pins, not a fun exercise. I've done it with a micro-soldering workstation with a microscope. Going back to standalone would be just as frustrating, it's a miss-configured state leaving those 2 pads left in SPI mode. I wouldn't run this driver half configured, and I see no reason to run it as standalone since 2100 is cheaper and requires no modifications (besides setting the chop vs spread cycle microstepping selection). My suspicion is that Fystech did what they did with V1 drivers because those ICs failed SPI mode -- were rejects from watterott, so Fystech bought them up to make 2130s in standalone and sell them to people who don't know better, btw 2 out of the 4 v1 fystech boards I converted failed to work in SPI mode -- which leads me to that conclusion since they all were done the same way.
I have read that sheet many times. On a Watterott driver CFG4 is set to GND and CFG5 is set to VIO by default. Do you think CHOPPER HYSTERESIS set to 5, CHOPPER BLANK TIME set to 24 causes issues?
@@ChrisRiley Looks like you get better chopper functionality at 16, but YMMV. The only practical reason to run it in standalone is to forego chopping and use 16x spread cycle with interpolation, then those pads don't matter. I would think if you're using this chip to get best chopping options -- then you'd configure it to do that -- or use SPI and adjust the timings/hysteresis that way. Those are heavily dependent on your stepper/load/speed, voltage.
Is this the same with TMC2209?
Unfortunately, its different for every driver board. It is the same if you use the Watterot boards.
Chris Riley Yes, I have the Watterott TMC2209. Thanks for your reply
I think genuine 2130 is something of a misnomer. They all use TMC2130 chips, it is the stepstick board that is different.
You are correct and as always we use terms we should not. When I say genuine, I am referring to the Waterott Electronic version. Great point, thank you.
I've got version 1.1, it's different....
Are the BTT branded one?
@@ChrisRiley I've finally found it. It was Bigtree V1.1. You must solder R5 tabs to activate standalone mode. The instructions were in chinese !
Good video - Thanks. Improve audio if you can as it sounds a bit muddy.
Thanks, ill see what I can do.
hi chris - that squeal (idle whine) from spreadcycle can be removed - I had the same issue with my anet a8 steppers th-cam.com/video/0OFpiJAMYZQ/w-d-xo.html I had to set myne down to 2 but the settings in this should work for you. Stealthchop is nice but not "great" for high speeds and Spreadcycle is still a lot quieter than standard a4988 or drv8825.
Sweet! Thanks for the link!
i think it's better not to solder these pins at all. the upside facing pins block placement of a big fat heatsink on top
These heatsinks work like a charm: www.watterott.com/de/Kuehlkoerper-9-x-9-x-12
Hey Chris, check this thing out ! might be worth a video for you. www.thingiverse.com/thing:3337519/files
Very cool, I actually tried to make something like this, but this is way better.
@@ChrisRiley might almost be worth trying JLB PCB on that one lol