Happy days...well done Chris for an easy "Dummies" guide I followed it to the letter and amazed myself when everything just clicked into place...salutes to you sir.
I soldered 3 wires to the lcd connector board to tap into the aux 3 SPI and got it going on my Dolly. I've been meaning to put together a video on that but haven't had the motivation yet. It's great that this option exists for those less adventurous than myself.
Really well done Chris. I've been having to print tethered with a Tevo BW for a few months now after doing Tom's 2130 upgrade. Thanks to you I can now use my SD reader again.
Once again, Well done Chris, your becoming the new "Tom" in Printer upgrade configurations explanation video's. Rare are the youtubes that show the correct way of upgrading ramps printers! I cant find a single thing you done wrog! you clearly spent many hours digging throw the firmware, And I know how much fun that is, haha been there done that! I have all these bells and whistles along with fan extenders, thermal couplers ...... And I was quickly running out of space to, keep adding to the ramps box, For the life of me I cant seem to find the files for the box I use that gave me plenty of room and then some, I will hunt for the files and ill post a link.
Thanks for this comment. It's great to hear that my content is helpful. For sure, if you find a RAMPS box you recommend let me know. I am very much out of room. :)
Hey, nice video again! Thanks to your videos, I might consider upgrading to these drivers as well! I really like that "freedom" of moving pins when you're running a RAMPS with enough free pins.
This method uses software SPI which add fair bit of overhead on the controller. This is acceptable is you have a small board with limited resources however I'd recommend using hardware SPI. In embedded world we use all of the embedded peripherals before trying to re purpose GPIO pins
Hi Chris As I have filled my stepper drive slots in my MKS GEN L v1.0 with stepper drivers. I would like to add a Keyes External Driver Control Board to my Z axis driver external pins. The printer that I am working on is a 2018 TEVO TORNADO with a MKS GEN L v1.0. I have three TMC 2130'S in X, Y and Z. and LV8729's in E0 and E1. I would like to add another TMC2130 to the Z axis. And hook them up SPI. I follow your video's, and you are a bucket full of information. Any help would be appreciated. As I do not know how the address Z0 and Z1 in Marlin. Thank You very much
So just to be clear you did this due to the board layout. I setup a rumba board on 2 machines, for a friend with 2130s and same LCD screen and it works just fine with hardware SPI. Rumba is a bit more robust as it breaks out the SPI pins so you can share MISO/MOSI lines, clock is shared on the bus, but that is fine -- CS pin is different for each device so as long as you don't step on that, it's fine. Not sure if there are any downsides to software SPI.
Yes, this is just because of the board layout. If you wanted to solder and share those pins it would work just fine as well. I just couldn't make it look good.
Hi Cris, i get "Driver error, PRINTER HALTED, Please reset" right after the upload of the firmware (1.1.9). i also tried on another RAMP1.4, same exact error. What i should check? the firmware or the drivers? Thanks for your help!
Great video, I followed everything but had to uncomment the STOP_ON_ERROR and debug sections. ran the M122 command and don't understand error. Can you take a look at it? How do i send to you?
Hi Chris loving the videos, but I have found an issue that I can not compile this firmware as it sats TMC2130Stepper.h is missing I have tried lots of options to fix it but none work so far any ideas ?.
i also noticed you dont have eeprom enabled. once i changes a few minor things it compiled. i will test it all tomorrow. will let you know how it works.
@Chris Riley I see that you have twin Z-steppers... I'm about to do either a RAMPS 1.4 or a MKS GEN L conversion to my CR10-S and use either 2130's or 2208's. I notice you're not using an extra 2xxx module for the 2nd. Z stepper so am assuming I can get away with parallel-wired Z motors, is that right? Would that be because the duty cycle of the Z steppers is much less than the X, Y, Extruder steppers? I'm wondering about the CR10-S 12V power supply and the effect of the lower voltage (
Yes, I just have them both on the same driver. I have never had an issue with 12v running this way on Z. I think there should be enough power there. You are correct, the demand isn't as high and should work fine.
Great work. I feared already soldering on the LCD Board, cutting cables, etc. - Greetings from Switzerland. Do you have a like to the modified firmware?
@@ChrisRiley This video is so incredibly helpful. Did you mind, if I just add your schematics to our printer documentation? - 3d-printer-hacklab.readthedocs.io/en/latest/#neue-tmc3120-treiber-fur-schrittmotoren
Hi Chris, I am in the middle of getting 2130's working with a MKS Gen L board, I have the X and Z working perfectly using your video thanks. The Y on the other hand is being a complete pain in the backside. I managed to work the pins out on the Gen L board but got caught because the MKS uses a pins.MKS Gen L that over writes the pins.ramps and was changing the CS pins for X and Y on me. But if you could do a version of this with the MKS Gen L and the 2130's that would be mad! It might help me solve my Y problem
@@ChrisRiley Hey Chris, I got it to work perfectly with Marlin 2.0! Your video was the most help I found on the internet..thank you, you saved me hours of headaches in trying to figure out the pins. I will post my wiring diagrams on a few facebook groups and credit you for the help. Oh..I only needed to edit Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h in Marlin 2.0 for it to work.
Hey there, great video. I have a prusa MK2 and would like to do this upgrade there. Almost all pins needed can be found on the backside but I'm not experienced enough to find another 2 free digital pins so I don't have to sacrifice the LCD. Could you possibly do a schematic short on how to get it running on a MK2? I think many people would appreciate a quiet printer without paying 500€ to prusa for an upgrade. Couldn't find any thread about tmc2130 and Rambo1.3a even tho the printer has sold so often. Sincerely J.
Thanks! I really wouldn't attempt something like this with a mini. By the time you by the drivers and get it all figured out, you could swap out to a einsy for just a little more and a lot less headache.
@@ChrisRiley Well I already have 4 tmc's and a driver extension board, and i don't see myself spending 130$ for convenience when the einsy is a rambo with tmc2130s. All I'm looking for is a dummies guide on how to find another 2 unused digital pins (tx 0, rx 0, all enables miso mosi etc are on the backside of the board) and hook it up to the prusa software. I tried to dig into that a few months ago but it's my first printer and I'm way to new to Arduino stuff.
There is some pretty good doc out there for the Rambo, but I don't think there is anything giving you physical locations. You might send an email over to Ultimachine, they are super helpful.
@@ChrisRiley Already did, but the answer was basically "here is the doc, there is one on the SPI header and some spare pins on the analog and serial headers. but you could just buy a einsy" :D
Once again great video Chris! I'm using can white TMC2130 with MKS gen 1.4 on my AM8 and face issue with Stealthchop. I have clone V6 on bowden and on higher speeds experienced layer shifts. I've found somewhere that Steathchop have torque issue. How tried higher speeds?
Thanks a lot Chris! very helpful, I was tempted to solder additional pins over LCD connector, but your solution is more clean. What's your opinion of using sensorless_homing for Z axis too? I´m think that melted plastic on nozzle can give some false reading.
You're welcome, yeah, I was thinking about that. You're right, any debris would cause you issues. It might be tricky to get it working and more trouble than its worth.
Hi Chris, Great tutorial as always. I followed your instructions but on MKS GEN 1.4 board. But after flashing there is no information on LCD anymore. That is the LCD is blank and not even the boot screen is shown. I am using full graphic LCD and with latest 1.1.9 bugfix release. Can you please tell if there is somethings that I need to be aware of. Thanks in Advance
Thanks man! This shouldn't be an issue on a 1.4. Not sure that would have went wrong. Make double sure your pin reassignment is correct. You could be crossing over you SPI pins.
@@ChrisRiley Sorry, I phrased that kinda weirdly. I meant if I could rearrange the display pins so that it would fit the weird pinout of the chinese reprap full graphic displays that Anet uses. Otherwise I would have to buy a new A6 mainboard and I would rather switch to RAMPS
@@senorcapitandiogenes2068 Ah, so you could rearrange the pins with some jumpers, but I think you can solve it in Marlin. I think that screen is in the config now. So just use the right board config and screen config and it should work. I think the connector on the anet is the same, but I can't remember.
@@ChrisRiley Thank you. Recently the integrated Y Axis stepper driver on my A6 broke and now I am sure that I am not going to buy that mainboard again. RAMPS with its possibilities of replacing all components is just better
Stepper drivers are NOT in configuration.h in older marlin endstop area. Think I should just bite the built and upgrade? Would you share you’re LOG configure?
@@markgreco1962 Sure, this is the bug fix one, let me know if you want another version, I will see what I have. drive.google.com/open?id=1TZFD0wTgWvIrQtVyZdHxUln9gkc_ssCk
hi, I followed your tutorial, and everything is working very quiet, it is amazing but some pieces when I print it looks like the steps of a stairs, I was looking for info and I think the issue is named skipping steps, did it happen to you with this drivers? if yes how can I solve it?
It could be two things, I would turn driver status on in the firmware and watch it print from the terminal. It will tell you what's wrong. They could be getting too hot, or the voltage isn't high enough.
@@ChrisRiley I hope you can reply me, i am having problems with Extruder driver so i want to try use the normal A4988 only for extruder , i unpluged the 2130driver from E0 cnnector in the ramps and plugged again the old one , i changed in marlin back A4988 for E0 but the extruder is crazy exdruding super fast i dont know if i have to change the wiring again and what am i doing wrong , thanks for your help
I found the issue , i just fotgot put the three jumpers back , i am using A4988 back to extruder and everything working fine and still very quiet with tmc2130 driver n x, y, z :)
Dear Chris, your videos are very helpful... Thank you very much. I hope you can help me or even give me an advice: I'm trying to install TMC2130 drivers on the X and Y axis with the Geeetech GT2560 rev. A+ board. I have tried every option in Marlin 2.0.x about TMC2130 but the Motors just won't move correctly. The Motors moan loudly just like they are not connected correctly. However, the X and Y motors move correctly only when I make a 0.1 mm move but with a very strong momentum that makes the whole printer move. Any help/advice is highly appreciated.
@@ChrisRiley Not sure what do you mean, but all pins are plugged into the board (no reversed pins like you did). My next question will be: How to connect to SPI mode on the GT2560 rev. A+ because almost all pins are already occupied
@@m.kanawati4385 Ok, so you are running in standalone mode. The pot on the driver is going to set your voltage in that case. Unfortunately the gt2560 doesn't have the SPI bus exposed, so I don't think you can get SPI mode configured on that board.
@@m.kanawati4385 Yes, they should default to stealthchop like you have them now. I would set them to 800mA to start. In standalone mode like this, you will need to put all your jumpers back on to set to 1/16 microsteps.
I also want to upgrade my ramps.1.4 with the 1.6 plus with TMC2130. So what you think Chris just use the jumpers for spi mode? Or also we must move the pins to aux2? Here is the link www.biqu.equipment/products/biqu-3d-printer-parts-ramps-1-6-plus-upgrade-from?variant=14250516480098
could you not solder a header on top of the lcd adapter so you c an use hardware spi? if not much mistaken the only thing you cant share is the CS line but there are plenty of free pins on AUX2
Hey Bo! Yes, you can do that, I just couldn't make it look very good. I though this was a much cleaner why. The soldering work around work just the same though, I did test it.
@@ChrisRiley hehehe, yes it requires a very steady hand, and i guess a very slim soldering tip i have a re-arm board going my way from the US and i plan to solder a 2x4 header on top of the lcd adapter. and then using aux2 for the cs pins, but then again i have to debate with myself if i want to go with tmc2130 or tmc2208. 2208 has more current but is serial controlled. i do not plan to use sensorless homing what would your arguments be for either of the 2?
@@boherrmannsen8219 For me, if I was building a printer I think I would go with 2208's and just run in legacy mode. Just as good as the 2130, still get stealthchop. You could always set them up spread cycle if you needed extra power.
In Marlin version 2.0.x the "n_CS_PIN" moved to "Configuration_adv.h", simplifying the configuration even more: github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/Configuration_adv.h#L1980
@@ChrisRiley Check out my current patch (not yet tested): github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/compare/2.0.x...chatelao:tmc3120#diff-18dab9d337cee2f9d2209940ed08dbacR1985
Hi Chris. Excellent once again! I have the TMC 2130 v1.1 drivers pack of 4 which came with jumper cables and the four pins all set up but they don't the fifth pin for the end stop. Not sure which end stops to connect. Do I need to connect any end stops? B.T.W. I have a ramps 1.6 board.
Chris Riley Chris I got everything running very very quiet. Mostly the noise comes from the Y axis. I cut the jerk number in half along with the acceleration I’m not too concerned about printing quickly I do want it to be extra quiet. I’m going to continue to tinker with it until you can hardly hear it I think a lot of the noise comes from vibrations telegraphing off the aluminum bed under the heat bed.
Hello , Super , Thanks For Explain .. But i Have Question ?! after i set TMC2130 and MKS Gen V1.4 .. i Must Set Current Of The Driver ? or Not Please this is import
@@ChrisRiley and micro step .. can u give information about install marline first time on mks gen v1.4 with drive tmc 2130 spi .. because i download marline but there some change from video to new Version of marline .. thanks so mush
When I follow this guide i get the error: Driver error, PRINTER HALTED. So I went some steps back and tested only de relocation of the SPI pins without entering the settings and connecting the lcd/sd card reader. I still get the same error. For some reason the relocation of the SPI pins to AUX2 is not working. Does anybody have a clue what the error can be?
@@ChrisRiley Yes, because after the errors I got I went back to the configuration without lcd which was working. And then I only relocated the pins of the SPI (MOSI, MISO, SCK) and the CS to AUX2 pins. After connecting the cables to the corresponding pins on the AUX2 I still got the errors.
I don't know anything about the Lerdge boards as of yet. The 2208 can be installed all pin down and you get StealthChop by default. No stall guard though, so no endstopless homing. You can flip one of the pins up and hook it to the SPI and put the driver into spread cycle if you need more power than stealthchop can offer. In that config you also get software power control.
It's my understanding that sensor less homing is a bit over rated. It can be very finicky to get it right. It's much easier to use normal endstops. I would not make this ability a priority when looking for a new board and chips.
Hello Chris :) i Just Done with Config Marlin and i Upload it to MKS GEN V1.4 But when the Screen Work i Got Massage " Driver Error PRINTER HALTED Please Rest " !! What is massage Men ? i did Something Wong ?!
@@ChrisRiley How can i do this ?! And this massage Appar when the Board work and its stay On this massage .. after i comment " #define STOP_ON_ERROR" its work .. But i got in Programer driver X,Y,Z,E0 Over Temp ! :( i Wana talk with u How i can chat with u thanks
Totally unrelated question in hopes you know something I don't lol I am using my printer as a Direct ink to PCB, When I make the back side of the pcb, it would be a lot easier to set up, if I was able to flip the X motor direction, My question is, do you know what gcode I could used, with marlin to change stepper direction movements. I don't want to flip the cables as its only used once for the back PCB
loll thanks Chris, Let me rephrase, I want to change the X axis on the fly when needed, like, throw a simple G or M code at the start of a gcode, I do not want to re-flash my firmware every time I want to have the axis change direction. Like I was saying, I use one of my printers with a Pen as a plotter to make PCB traces, and to properly align the top with the bottom when I flip the copper board over. You see, I print starting for 0.0 (top right corner of the copper board) when I flip the board I need the new 0.0 to start at top Left, if that makes sense, I know at one point there was a M569 gcode to do that, it is still part of the original RepRap firmware, I think they just took it out of marlin, I was just hoping you knew another one I didn't know about.
If all else fails, i'm going to add a double poll double throw switch on the wires to the X axis and toggle flip the switch as needed but id rather do it with a Gcode if I can.
@@patprop74 Yeah that might be easier. Only thing I can think of is when you do the back you could use the same gcode but do a change all in a text editor to make the x negative numbers.
In the short term , that might be a option, however, I am sure there is a way to add a custom Gcode to Marlin that would let me do this, After all if we can change the stepper direction in the firmware by simply changing a True to False or vs versa , there must be a way to code it in as gcode, I would think, but, when it comes to coding a firmware lol im as clueless as the next guy. Thanks for your help nonetheless and if you come across info, id love to hear it, Two heads are better then one after all, BTW Happy New Year.
Hi Chris, I notice in a few comments you've said this 'should' work the same on the Re-ARM. I've just tried this, and it came up with a TMC connection error. After having a look at the re-arm pinout (reprap.org/wiki/File:Re-ARM_left_Rev_2.jpg) it appears as though alot of the AUX 2 pins are not functional. Would you be able to suggest pins from that diagram that I may be able to use? Very new to the whole thing, so I'm not 100% sure. Cheers!
Since you can now change these up in the firmware you can use pretty much anything you want. I think I would try to use some of the open ones on the back header. reprap.org/mediawiki/images/f/fa/Re_ARM_Schematic.pdf
@@ChrisRiley Thanks for the help. Turns out my 2130s had the tiny resistor soldered on the back disabling SPI. Then used your suggested pins on the back. Works a treat now, cheers!
Outstanding as always Chris. Shame my CR-10S4 has onboard drivers. Then again, I'm thinking of upgrading to a Duet, these do the 2130s do work on the Duet don't they? If I do upgrade to a Duet, it makes sense to move all the electronics to under the bed too. Will I ever stop pimping this printer .... I doubt it :-)
Thanks Spike! Duet has 2660's and they are awesome as well. Super quiet as well. They only real difference is how the stall guard works. 2660's can do skip detection, but it's not as granular as the 2130. So enstopless homing really isn't effective on the Duet.
@@ChrisRiley Ah I see, thanks for that. If im going to upgrade the board I want to have all the bells and whistles too, including sensorless homing. Are there any boards that have the 2130s or are able to have them installed and are 32bit?
@@ChrisRiley and sadly the 2660's are to big to fit the polulu format :-( i would have taken those if i could. they should also be noiseless at 12V where as tmc2130 and tmc2208 need 24V and above to without whine/hiss
@@spikekent i'm sure @Chris Riley will join in, but a re-arm and a decent ramps board should do the trick. personal i use this one for ramps: www.tindie.com/products/staticboards/ramps-14-sb-premium/, if you are inside EU you can order from here also: www.staticboards.com/products/arduino-shield-ramps-1-4-sb-premium/
Hello :) Again in 3:48 .. Enstop ! Can i ask question becuase im new .. im using TMC2130 SPI and using Sensor bed leveling in Z Axie which is will be true and which will be false Thanks >> im Confucius One mOre thing : if i wana use endstops of Driver where i can connect the pin of endstop of driver in MKS V1.4 :) thanks
@@ChrisRiley Yes its NPN .. i can use endstop x and y .. normally because i dont wana use endstop of driver in the first so config will be ?! in this case thanks for replaying :)
@@ChrisRiley i Have TMC 2130 SPI Right Now , So i will leave them all ?! .. So i can use the best mode u told about it in the video . and it will run on 16 Micro step in marlin software ?!
all that hassle for some more silence. one thing is certain I will never do all that effort, I wait until something comes on the market that I can connect without too much trouble. I believe it helplessly, watch my words! that is coming! just have patience! Or, ......... maybe there is already something? reprapworld.nl/products/elektronica/stappenmotordriver/raps128_1_128_stepresolutie_stappenmotor_aansturing/ whether this is what? I do not know, I have STILL PATIENT !!! Greetings all! Rob.
gladly done Chris, BUT! I mean, of course, that what you are doing now, is so cumbersome (at least I think so!) it is not time for a new set up, also one where you can make more choices but that you do not have to turn everything upside down. a little late but a nice Christmas and a happy new year for everyone! from the Netherlands. Rob.@@ChrisRiley
Hey Chris, I've followed this video and got everything hooked up but for some reason when I move the X axis the stepper motor just buzzes. I removed the belt to see if maybe there was to much friction from the carriage but it does the same. Any ideas what it might be?
Chris Riley, I managed to resolve the issue. It’s was a simple problem in the end, when I plugged the stepper motor into the ramps board I missed a pin. It’s now working perfectly and really quite, the part cooling fan is the noisiest thing now.
Happy days...well done Chris for an easy "Dummies" guide I followed it to the letter and amazed myself when everything just clicked into place...salutes to you sir.
Thanks! Yes, the 2130 noise reductions is impressive.
Yet another great video with clear and precise explanations. I still need to get round to upgrading my E10 to Tmc2208. Hopefully this weekend
Thanks Andy!
Another winner, Chris! This video, combined with you other 2130 setup video should get anyone up and running.
Thanks Chad! Hopefully I got it covered. :)
Great guide! Was looking all over for something exactly about this and this is so much easier to understand instead a wall of text.
Thanks! Glad it helped you.
Thanks for making your videos. The walk through process including screen recording and easy to understand instructions is outstanding.
You're welcome Jack! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for this. I got my printer issues all sorted and with all that awesome TMC2130 goodness!!
Sweeeeeeet!!!
Chris, thanks again for this very nice tutorial. Lots of work to get TMC2130 configured. I will do it in the near future. Thanks dude !
Anytime man, glad to help.
Worked like a charm. Thanks again for the great wiring diagramm.
Sweet, glad it worked!
I soldered 3 wires to the lcd connector board to tap into the aux 3 SPI and got it going on my Dolly. I've been meaning to put together a video on that but haven't had the motivation yet. It's great that this option exists for those less adventurous than myself.
Nice! I tired that first and didn't really like the way more solder job turned out. It did seem to work just fine though.
Really well done Chris. I've been having to print tethered with a Tevo BW for a few months now after doing Tom's 2130 upgrade. Thanks to you I can now use my SD reader again.
Thanks! Great to hear it will get your screen back.
Once again, Well done Chris, your becoming the new "Tom" in Printer upgrade configurations explanation video's. Rare are the youtubes that show the correct way of upgrading ramps printers! I cant find a single thing you done wrog! you clearly spent many hours digging throw the firmware, And I know how much fun that is, haha been there done that! I have all these bells and whistles along with fan extenders, thermal couplers ...... And I was quickly running out of space to, keep adding to the ramps box, For the life of me I cant seem to find the files for the box I use that gave me plenty of room and then some, I will hunt for the files and ill post a link.
Thanks for this comment. It's great to hear that my content is helpful. For sure, if you find a RAMPS box you recommend let me know. I am very much out of room. :)
Just got theses drivers for Christmas. Perfect timing.
Awesome! Great present!
Hey, nice video again!
Thanks to your videos, I might consider upgrading to these drivers as well!
I really like that "freedom" of moving pins when you're running a RAMPS with enough free pins.
Thanks man! Yeah, RAMPS is nice because on the pins, but for the most part very unreliable.
Yeah, sadly, especially if you use some cheap clones... One of mine shorted after being connected to 12V without anything on it for five minutes!
Thanks a lot! This video comes just at the right time for me, i am currently building a new 3d printer using the tmc 2130.
Awesome! You're welcome!
Great, another project to try, as if I dont have enough already. Great video as always. Good thing I have a platform in mind.
Thanks John as always.
thank you so much for your thorough and well structured guides! you're so good at explaining things clearly and have been so much help to me.
Thank you for the kind words, I am glad my content helps out.
"Finesse" -- Another great and detailed video. Nicely done!
lol, thanks John!
Thank you for this video. Now all is working
Awesome! Glad it helped.
Another good video, Chris. Hope you all had a good Christmas.
Thanks Thomas, I did, hope you did as well.
All my wiring is “Finessed to fit” LOL... Great Video!
Thanks Mike! Oh buddy, this config is getting scary. :)
Great video as usual Chris 👍🤙👍
Thanks for watching!
You help me a lot, thank you so much!
Happy Holidays :)
Great to hear, Happy Holidays.
This method uses software SPI which add fair bit of overhead on the controller. This is acceptable is you have a small board with limited resources however I'd recommend using hardware SPI. In embedded world we use all of the embedded peripherals before trying to re purpose GPIO pins
I agree, I would much rather use the hardware.
Very nice. Guess it is time to get some more drivers.
Thanks James!
Great walk through Chris ! thanks for making this !
Thanks for watching Ron!
Thank you Chris!!
You are very welcome!
Nice Christmas present👍😀
👍😀
How dare you step to me. Getting all Riley'd up.
Riley'd up, I like it.
everything always works first try for you
I read this wrong the first time....I wish it was that simple. These were a real pain to setup.
Great video! I'm sure this will help a lot of people. BTW, do you think this can he done in a re-arm/RAMPS setup?
Thanks! Sure, it should work on RE-ARM exactly the same.
Hi Chris
As I have filled my stepper drive slots in my MKS GEN L v1.0 with stepper drivers. I would like to add a Keyes External Driver Control Board to my Z axis driver external pins.
The printer that I am working on is a 2018 TEVO TORNADO with a MKS GEN L v1.0. I have three TMC 2130'S in X, Y and Z. and LV8729's in E0 and E1. I would like to add another TMC2130 to the Z axis. And hook them up SPI.
I follow your video's, and you are a bucket full of information. Any help would be appreciated.
As I do not know how the address Z0 and Z1 in Marlin.
Thank You very much
Email sent! 😀
Great instructional video. Doesn't the LCD or SD-card use aux 3? What happens to those pins? Or do you create additional SPI pins?
Yes, they use AUX 3 with the smart adapter. They are still in place, we just created additional SPI pins.
Excellent information. Can I use the same procedure to connect Re arm with TMC 2130 V 1.1.
Yep, it should work just the same.
So just to be clear you did this due to the board layout. I setup a rumba board on 2 machines, for a friend with 2130s and same LCD screen and it works just fine with hardware SPI. Rumba is a bit more robust as it breaks out the SPI pins so you can share MISO/MOSI lines, clock is shared on the bus, but that is fine -- CS pin is different for each device so as long as you don't step on that, it's fine. Not sure if there are any downsides to software SPI.
Yes, this is just because of the board layout. If you wanted to solder and share those pins it would work just fine as well. I just couldn't make it look good.
Hi Cris,
i get "Driver error, PRINTER HALTED, Please reset" right after the upload of the firmware (1.1.9).
i also tried on another RAMP1.4, same exact error.
What i should check? the firmware or the drivers?
Thanks for your help!
It's usually a wiring issue. Comment out the stop on errors in the firmware and see if you can get some error messaging out of it. Run M122.
Chris Riley I found out the drivers I got were in stand-alone config. I had to remove R5 and weld CFG4 and CFG5. Now is all ok! Thanks mate!
@@TheSnow520lee Awesome! Glad it's working.
Great video, I followed everything but had to uncomment the STOP_ON_ERROR and debug sections. ran the M122 command and don't understand error. Can you take a look at it? How do i send to you?
Hello, you can send me an email brotherchris81@gmail.com
Hi Chris loving the videos, but I have found an issue that I can not compile this firmware as it sats TMC2130Stepper.h is missing I have tried lots of options to fix it but none work so far any ideas ?.
Thanks! That usually means there is something wrong with the 2130 library. Try to uninstall it and reinstall it again.
Chris Riley I did do that 3 times also downloaded and manually added file
Strange, if you want to pack up your firmware and send me a link to it, I will check it out if you like. brotherchris81@gmail.com
i also noticed you dont have eeprom enabled. once i changes a few minor things it compiled. i will test it all tomorrow. will let you know how it works.
Cool, let me know how it goes.
@Chris Riley I see that you have twin Z-steppers... I'm about to do either a RAMPS 1.4 or a MKS GEN L conversion to my CR10-S and use either 2130's or 2208's. I notice you're not using an extra 2xxx module for the 2nd. Z stepper so am assuming I can get away with parallel-wired Z motors, is that right? Would that be because the duty cycle of the Z steppers is much less than the X, Y, Extruder steppers?
I'm wondering about the CR10-S 12V power supply and the effect of the lower voltage (
Yes, I just have them both on the same driver. I have never had an issue with 12v running this way on Z. I think there should be enough power there. You are correct, the demand isn't as high and should work fine.
@Chris Riley Thank you for the reply and 12V info. And thank you for the very informative "How-to" video(s).
Great work. I feared already soldering on the LCD Board, cutting cables, etc. - Greetings from Switzerland.
Do you have a like to the modified firmware?
Thanks! I have this one, see if it helps. drive.google.com/file/d/1TZFD0wTgWvIrQtVyZdHxUln9gkc_ssCk/view
@@ChrisRiley This video is so incredibly helpful. Did you mind, if I just add your schematics to our printer documentation? - 3d-printer-hacklab.readthedocs.io/en/latest/#neue-tmc3120-treiber-fur-schrittmotoren
Sure, you can use them.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks so much!
Hi Chris, I am in the middle of getting 2130's working with a MKS Gen L board, I have the X and Z working perfectly using your video thanks. The Y on the other hand is being a complete pain in the backside.
I managed to work the pins out on the Gen L board but got caught because the MKS uses a pins.MKS Gen L that over writes the pins.ramps and was changing the CS pins for X and Y on me.
But if you could do a version of this with the MKS Gen L and the 2130's that would be mad! It might help me solve my Y problem
Yeah man, if I get a hold of one I will give it a shot. Check out pins_MKS_GEN_L.h you can change the Y and E pins there.
@@ChrisRiley Hey Chris, I got it to work perfectly with Marlin 2.0!
Your video was the most help I found on the internet..thank you, you saved me hours of headaches in trying to figure out the pins.
I will post my wiring diagrams on a few facebook groups and credit you for the help. Oh..I only needed to edit Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h in Marlin 2.0 for it to work.
@@Worelock1966 Great! Glad you got it working!
@@ChrisRiley wouldnt have done it without your help man
Great to hear it was a help. Thanks man!
Would it be difficult to use an MKS Gen L board for this?
It should be almost the same as a RAMPS board.
Hey there, great video. I have a prusa MK2 and would like to do this upgrade there. Almost all pins needed can be found on the backside but I'm not experienced enough to find another 2 free digital pins so I don't have to sacrifice the LCD. Could you possibly do a schematic short on how to get it running on a MK2? I think many people would appreciate a quiet printer without paying 500€ to prusa for an upgrade. Couldn't find any thread about tmc2130 and Rambo1.3a even tho the printer has sold so often.
Sincerely J.
Thanks! I really wouldn't attempt something like this with a mini. By the time you by the drivers and get it all figured out, you could swap out to a einsy for just a little more and a lot less headache.
@@ChrisRiley Well I already have 4 tmc's and a driver extension board, and i don't see myself spending 130$ for convenience when the einsy is a rambo with tmc2130s. All I'm looking for is a dummies guide on how to find another 2 unused digital pins (tx 0, rx 0, all enables miso mosi etc are on the backside of the board) and hook it up to the prusa software. I tried to dig into that a few months ago but it's my first printer and I'm way to new to Arduino stuff.
There is some pretty good doc out there for the Rambo, but I don't think there is anything giving you physical locations. You might send an email over to Ultimachine, they are super helpful.
@@ChrisRiley Already did, but the answer was basically "here is the doc, there is one on the SPI header and some spare pins on the analog and serial headers. but you could just buy a einsy" :D
Once again great video Chris! I'm using can white TMC2130 with MKS gen 1.4 on my AM8 and face issue with Stealthchop. I have clone V6 on bowden and on higher speeds experienced layer shifts. I've found somewhere that Steathchop have torque issue. How tried higher speeds?
I have not tried higher speeds, but yes, you will have less torque. Does spread cycle help with the shift at all?
what bed leveling settings do you have? i keep getting this:static_assert(RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION
I show all of that in thes video. th-cam.com/video/iwhbeD2AduA/w-d-xo.html
Is this valid for MKS-Gen 1.4 board? Thanks
Yes, pinout is a little different, but you can use the same pins.
Thanks a lot Chris! very helpful, I was tempted to solder additional pins over LCD connector, but your solution is more clean.
What's your opinion of using sensorless_homing for Z axis too? I´m think that melted plastic on nozzle can give some false reading.
You're welcome, yeah, I was thinking about that. You're right, any debris would cause you issues. It might be tricky to get it working and more trouble than its worth.
Hi Chris,
Great tutorial as always.
I followed your instructions but on MKS GEN 1.4 board. But after flashing there is no information on LCD anymore. That is the LCD is blank and not even the boot screen is shown. I am using full graphic LCD and with latest 1.1.9 bugfix release. Can you please tell if there is somethings that I need to be aware of. Thanks in Advance
Thanks man! This shouldn't be an issue on a 1.4. Not sure that would have went wrong. Make double sure your pin reassignment is correct. You could be crossing over you SPI pins.
Could this be used to make use of a RAMPS 1.4 board with the chinese reprap full Graphic displays that have a different pinout?
2130s should work pretty much any ramps.
@@ChrisRiley Sorry, I phrased that kinda weirdly. I meant if I could rearrange the display pins so that it would fit the weird pinout of the chinese reprap full graphic displays that Anet uses. Otherwise I would have to buy a new A6 mainboard and I would rather switch to RAMPS
@@senorcapitandiogenes2068 Ah, so you could rearrange the pins with some jumpers, but I think you can solve it in Marlin. I think that screen is in the config now. So just use the right board config and screen config and it should work. I think the connector on the anet is the same, but I can't remember.
@@ChrisRiley Thank you. Recently the integrated Y Axis stepper driver on my A6 broke and now I am sure that I am not going to buy that mainboard again. RAMPS with its possibilities of replacing all components is just better
Could I use the 1.8.8 LOG firmware for this from your google drive?????
You say use 1.1.9 bug fix does it matter?
It shouldn't matter, 1.8 and up should be fine with 2130's.
Chris Riley perfect thanks your #1
Stepper drivers are NOT in configuration.h in older marlin endstop area. Think I should just bite the built and upgrade? Would you share you’re LOG configure?
@@markgreco1962 Sure, this is the bug fix one, let me know if you want another version, I will see what I have. drive.google.com/open?id=1TZFD0wTgWvIrQtVyZdHxUln9gkc_ssCk
hi, I followed your tutorial, and everything is working very quiet, it is amazing but some pieces when I print it looks like the steps of a stairs, I was looking for info and I think the issue is named skipping steps, did it happen to you with this drivers? if yes how can I solve it?
It could be two things, I would turn driver status on in the firmware and watch it print from the terminal. It will tell you what's wrong. They could be getting too hot, or the voltage isn't high enough.
@@ChrisRiley I hope you can reply me, i am having problems with Extruder driver so i want to try use the normal A4988 only for extruder , i unpluged the 2130driver from E0 cnnector in the ramps and plugged again the old one , i changed in marlin back A4988 for E0 but the extruder is crazy exdruding super fast i dont know if i have to change the wiring again and what am i doing wrong , thanks for your help
I found the issue , i just fotgot put the three jumpers back , i am using A4988 back to extruder and everything working fine and still very quiet with tmc2130 driver n x, y, z :)
@@jaseduar Nice! Glad you found it.
Dear Chris, your videos are very helpful... Thank you very much. I hope you can help me or even give me an advice: I'm trying to install TMC2130 drivers on the X and Y axis with the Geeetech GT2560 rev. A+ board. I have tried every option in Marlin 2.0.x about TMC2130 but the Motors just won't move correctly. The Motors moan loudly just like they are not connected correctly. However, the X and Y motors move correctly only when I make a 0.1 mm move but with a very strong momentum that makes the whole printer move. Any help/advice is highly appreciated.
Sounds to me like the current is way to high. Are you connected SPI mode?
@@ChrisRiley Not sure what do you mean, but all pins are plugged into the board (no reversed pins like you did). My next question will be: How to connect to SPI mode on the GT2560 rev. A+ because almost all pins are already occupied
@@m.kanawati4385 Ok, so you are running in standalone mode. The pot on the driver is going to set your voltage in that case. Unfortunately the gt2560 doesn't have the SPI bus exposed, so I don't think you can get SPI mode configured on that board.
@@ChrisRiley Very well, and can I at least make the drivers work always in stealth mode? if yes, How? and how much currect should I set the pot. to?
@@m.kanawati4385 Yes, they should default to stealthchop like you have them now. I would set them to 800mA to start. In standalone mode like this, you will need to put all your jumpers back on to set to 1/16 microsteps.
Great video, I wonder if with the new 1.6+ version of the RAMPS will be more easy to do since they're adapted to use TMC2130...
Not sure on that one, do you have a link to it?
@@ChrisRiley AFAIK I only found it in AliEx m.aliexpress.com/item/32949792381.html
I also want to upgrade my ramps.1.4 with the 1.6 plus with TMC2130. So what you think Chris just use the jumpers for spi mode? Or also we must move the pins to aux2?
Here is the link www.biqu.equipment/products/biqu-3d-printer-parts-ramps-1-6-plus-upgrade-from?variant=14250516480098
Does the wire on the harness need to be that heavy?.
No, it does carry any current to speak of.
@@ChrisRiley Cheers.
@@ChrisRiley Great tutorial by the way keep em coming...:)
@@garyblake4296 Thanks Gary!
could you not solder a header on top of the lcd adapter so you c an use hardware spi? if not much mistaken the only thing you cant share is the CS line but there are plenty of free pins on AUX2
Hey Bo! Yes, you can do that, I just couldn't make it look very good. I though this was a much cleaner why. The soldering work around work just the same though, I did test it.
@@ChrisRiley hehehe, yes it requires a very steady hand, and i guess a very slim soldering tip
i have a re-arm board going my way from the US and i plan to solder a 2x4 header on top of the lcd adapter. and then using aux2 for the cs pins, but then again i have to debate with myself if i want to go with tmc2130 or tmc2208. 2208 has more current but is serial controlled. i do not plan to use sensorless homing
what would your arguments be for either of the 2?
@@boherrmannsen8219 For me, if I was building a printer I think I would go with 2208's and just run in legacy mode. Just as good as the 2130, still get stealthchop. You could always set them up spread cycle if you needed extra power.
@@ChrisRiley as you are using that sandwich you could use the SPI headers on the mega...
@@Nitram_3d that was the first thing I tried. I could find a connector that had enough clearance. Do you know of one?
In Marlin version 2.0.x the "n_CS_PIN" moved to "Configuration_adv.h", simplifying the configuration even more: github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/Configuration_adv.h#L1980
Thanks for the tip!
@@ChrisRiley Check out my current patch (not yet tested): github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/compare/2.0.x...chatelao:tmc3120#diff-18dab9d337cee2f9d2209940ed08dbacR1985
Hi Chris. Excellent once again! I have the TMC 2130 v1.1 drivers pack of 4 which came with jumper cables and the four pins all set up but they don't the fifth pin for the end stop. Not sure which end stops to connect. Do I need to connect any end stops? B.T.W. I have a ramps 1.6 board.
Please excuse my name being in Greek. it is pronounced Pan Trimis. LOL
Is there a hole to add a pin for diag? That is how you get feedback for the endstopless homing.
Yess. There are three holes. Hey thanx for the fast responce. @@ChrisRiley
So I just solder the two wires as you did? Should I use the z stop? I have a bltouch that I plan on connecting later on.
@@ΠάνΤρίμης Yes, that should work, no on Z, it won't work well.
Z is super quiet X is ok Y is supper loud or just as bad as before. Did you adjust the pots on the driver boards?
Hey Mark, are you running in standalone or SPI mode? SPI you shouldn't need to adjust it.
Chris Riley Chris I got everything running very very quiet. Mostly the noise comes from the Y axis.
I cut the jerk number in half along with the acceleration I’m not too concerned about printing quickly I do want it to be extra quiet. I’m going to continue to tinker with it until you can hardly hear it I think a lot of the noise comes from vibrations telegraphing off the aluminum bed under the heat bed.
@@markgreco1962 Very cool Mark!
Hello , Super , Thanks For Explain .. But i Have Question ?! after i set TMC2130 and MKS Gen V1.4 .. i Must Set Current Of The Driver ? or Not Please this is import
No, 2130's set the voltage via software if you set them up in SPI mode.
@@ChrisRiley and micro step .. can u give information about install marline first time on mks gen v1.4 with drive tmc 2130 spi .. because i download marline but there some change from video to new Version of marline .. thanks so mush
@@mohamedatef8424 Are you using 1.1.9? It should work almost exactly the same on an MKS board.
When I follow this guide i get the error: Driver error, PRINTER HALTED. So I went some steps back and tested only de relocation of the SPI pins without entering the settings and connecting the lcd/sd card reader. I still get the same error. For some reason the relocation of the SPI pins to AUX2 is not working. Does anybody have a clue what the error can be?
Hey, what version of Marlin are you on?
@@ChrisRiley Version 1.1.9
@@DanvG87 So you think it's the virtual SPI that isn't working?
@@ChrisRiley Yes, because after the errors I got I went back to the configuration without lcd which was working. And then I only relocated the pins of the SPI (MOSI, MISO, SCK) and the CS to AUX2 pins. After connecting the cables to the corresponding pins on the AUX2 I still got the errors.
@@DanvG87 What board are you using? There might be some overlapping pins.
Nice Video Chris... Can u make this with tmc 2208 driver with new version 1.2 i think we dont need to make solder..
Thanks! Yes, you can do 2208 in the default config with all the pins down. That will default to stealthchop.
I am thinking of the Lerdge K-TMC2208 board for my upcoming HyperCube Evo. Does the 2208 include sensorless homing? StealthChop?
I don't know anything about the Lerdge boards as of yet. The 2208 can be installed all pin down and you get StealthChop by default. No stall guard though, so no endstopless homing. You can flip one of the pins up and hook it to the SPI and put the driver into spread cycle if you need more power than stealthchop can offer. In that config you also get software power control.
It's my understanding that sensor less homing is a bit over rated. It can be very finicky to get it right. It's much easier to use normal endstops. I would not make this ability a priority when looking for a new board and chips.
@@ravemind8433 I agree, it is pretty cool, but unless you really need it some strange config, it's kind of a pain.
Hello Chris :)
i Just Done with Config Marlin and i Upload it to MKS GEN V1.4
But when the Screen Work i Got Massage " Driver Error PRINTER HALTED Please Rest " !!
What is massage Men ? i did Something Wong ?!
Probably a wiring issue. You are trying SPI correct? You might need to send a reset command to clear it.
@@ChrisRiley How can i do this ?! And this massage Appar when the Board work and its stay On this massage ..
after i comment " #define STOP_ON_ERROR" its work .. But i got in Programer driver X,Y,Z,E0 Over Temp ! :(
i Wana talk with u How i can chat with u thanks
Totally unrelated question in hopes you know something I don't lol I am using my printer as a Direct ink to PCB, When I make the back side of the pcb, it would be a lot easier to set up, if I was able to flip the X motor direction, My question is, do you know what gcode I could used, with marlin to change stepper direction movements. I don't want to flip the cables as its only used once for the back PCB
Yes, inside Marlin all you should need to change are these settings.
#define INVERT_X_DIR true
#define INVERT_Y_DIR true
#define INVERT_Z_DIR false
loll thanks Chris, Let me rephrase, I want to change the X axis on the fly when needed, like, throw a simple G or M code at the start of a gcode, I do not want to re-flash my firmware every time I want to have the axis change direction. Like I was saying, I use one of my printers with a Pen as a plotter to make PCB traces, and to properly align the top with the bottom when I flip the copper board over. You see, I print starting for 0.0 (top right corner of the copper board) when I flip the board I need the new 0.0 to start at top Left, if that makes sense, I know at one point there was a M569 gcode to do that, it is still part of the original RepRap firmware, I think they just took it out of marlin, I was just hoping you knew another one I didn't know about.
If all else fails, i'm going to add a double poll double throw switch on the wires to the X axis and toggle flip the switch as needed but id rather do it with a Gcode if I can.
@@patprop74 Yeah that might be easier. Only thing I can think of is when you do the back you could use the same gcode but do a change all in a text editor to make the x negative numbers.
In the short term , that might be a option, however, I am sure there is a way to add a custom Gcode to Marlin that would let me do this, After all if we can change the stepper direction in the firmware by simply changing a True to False or vs versa , there must be a way to code it in as gcode, I would think, but, when it comes to coding a firmware lol im as clueless as the next guy. Thanks for your help nonetheless and if you come across info, id love to hear it, Two heads are better then one after all, BTW Happy New Year.
Hi Chris, I notice in a few comments you've said this 'should' work the same on the Re-ARM. I've just tried this, and it came up with a TMC connection error. After having a look at the re-arm pinout (reprap.org/wiki/File:Re-ARM_left_Rev_2.jpg) it appears as though alot of the AUX 2 pins are not functional. Would you be able to suggest pins from that diagram that I may be able to use? Very new to the whole thing, so I'm not 100% sure. Cheers!
Since you can now change these up in the firmware you can use pretty much anything you want. I think I would try to use some of the open ones on the back header. reprap.org/mediawiki/images/f/fa/Re_ARM_Schematic.pdf
@@ChrisRiley Thanks for the help. Turns out my 2130s had the tiny resistor soldered on the back disabling SPI. Then used your suggested pins on the back. Works a treat now, cheers!
Outstanding as always Chris. Shame my CR-10S4 has onboard drivers. Then again, I'm thinking of upgrading to a Duet, these do the 2130s do work on the Duet don't they?
If I do upgrade to a Duet, it makes sense to move all the electronics to under the bed too. Will I ever stop pimping this printer .... I doubt it :-)
Thanks Spike! Duet has 2660's and they are awesome as well. Super quiet as well. They only real difference is how the stall guard works. 2660's can do skip detection, but it's not as granular as the 2130. So enstopless homing really isn't effective on the Duet.
@@ChrisRiley Ah I see, thanks for that. If im going to upgrade the board I want to have all the bells and whistles too, including sensorless homing. Are there any boards that have the 2130s or are able to have them installed and are 32bit?
@@ChrisRiley and sadly the 2660's are to big to fit the polulu format :-( i would have taken those if i could. they should also be noiseless at 12V where as tmc2130 and tmc2208 need 24V and above to without whine/hiss
@@spikekent i'm sure @Chris Riley will join in, but a re-arm and a decent ramps board should do the trick. personal i use this one for ramps: www.tindie.com/products/staticboards/ramps-14-sb-premium/, if you are inside EU you can order from here also: www.staticboards.com/products/arduino-shield-ramps-1-4-sb-premium/
@@spikekent The only one I know of is the Einsy and it's 8 bit. I "think" 2130's should work on 32 bit. I would need to test it.
Hello :) Again
in 3:48 .. Enstop ! Can i ask question becuase im new .. im using TMC2130 SPI and using Sensor bed leveling in Z Axie which is will be true and which will be false Thanks >> im Confucius
One mOre thing : if i wana use endstops of Driver where i can connect the pin of endstop of driver in MKS V1.4 :) thanks
Do you know what type of z probe you have? Npn or pnp? If it is NPN, both will be true.
@@ChrisRiley Yes its NPN ..
i can use endstop x and y .. normally because i dont wana use endstop of driver in the first so config will be ?! in this case
thanks for replaying :)
@@mohamedatef8424 you'll have to test it, but my guess is they will both be false.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks Chris :)
i will try and i will let u know what happened .. thanks :)
@Chris Riley .. Last Vision Of Marlin is 1.1.9
!!
That will be the last 8bit only version of marlin.
@@ChrisRiley Can u tell me there will be jumper On MS1 .. MS2 .. MS3 .. Or no jumper will put ?! thanks
@@mohamedatef8424 What mode do you want to run it? SPI mode leave them all off.
@@ChrisRiley i Have TMC 2130 SPI Right Now , So i will leave them all ?! .. So i can use the best mode u told about it in the video . and it will run on 16 Micro step in marlin software ?!
@@mohamedatef8424 All the jumpers will be off for SPI mode.
now to make the TMC2130's in SPI mode work on a RAMPs 1.4 on a RE-ARM board WITH the 2004 LCD screen.
Muahahahahahahahaha
lol, go man go!
all that hassle for some more silence.
one thing is certain I will never do all that effort,
I wait until something comes on the market that I can connect without too much trouble.
I believe it helplessly, watch my words! that is coming!
just have patience!
Or, ......... maybe there is already something?
reprapworld.nl/products/elektronica/stappenmotordriver/raps128_1_128_stepresolutie_stappenmotor_aansturing/
whether this is what? I do not know, I have STILL PATIENT !!!
Greetings all!
Rob.
Hey Rob! RAPS128, that looks interesting. Never seen one of these before. Thanks for the link.
gladly done Chris,
BUT! I mean, of course, that what you are doing now,
is so cumbersome (at least I think so!)
it is not time for a new set up,
also one where you can make more choices but that you do not have to turn everything upside down.
a little late but a nice Christmas and a happy new year for everyone!
from the Netherlands.
Rob.@@ChrisRiley
Happy new year Rob!
Cheaper and easier to buy an prusa eisny clone from aliexpress. Already wired up and has rmc2130s. Lol
but you get what you pay for, and since you pay less something is not as good as it could be :-D
Depending on the board you use you could probably get a real Einsy for about the same price. Not a bad way to go. :)
I never spend money on clones, unless they figure out a way to clone customer support and backup their products like the originals.
Great point.
Triangle labs makea good clones. No issues.
Hey Chris, I've followed this video and got everything hooked up but for some reason when I move the X axis the stepper motor just buzzes. I removed the belt to see if maybe there was to much friction from the carriage but it does the same. Any ideas what it might be?
Hey! Almost has to be voltage/current or a bad driver.
Chris Riley, I managed to resolve the issue. It’s was a simple problem in the end, when I plugged the stepper motor into the ramps board I missed a pin. It’s now working perfectly and really quite, the part cooling fan is the noisiest thing now.
@@hosparky1 Awesome! Glad to hear it.
Have a happy new year chris
Happy new year Paul!