3D Chameleon - Part 1 - Assembly - Chris's Basement - 2024
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 พ.ค. 2024
- We are upgrading our 3D Chameleon. I'll show you all the hardware and printed parts, how to put it together, and how it works.
00:00 Introduction
04:19 Assembly
19:25 PTFE Tubes
26:18 Final Assembly
30:21 Conclusion
These are affiliate links and take you to Amazon.
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20Pcs Deep-Groove Bearing High Speed Ball Bearings 16 × 5 × 5mm on Amazon:
geni.us/xltHl
6800RS Ball Bearing 10x19x5mm,10x19 ABEC 3 Blue Rubber Sealed Precision Ball Bearings on Amazon:
geni.us/Zxv4
Springs for bearing tension on Amazon:
geni.us/USPpO9
Nema 17 Stepper Motor on Amazon:
geni.us/vp51mbK
Extruder gears used in Chameleon on Amazon:
geni.us/2yAE7
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Helpful Links:
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Link to 3D Chameleon:
www.3dchameleon.com/
Link to MK4 printed parts on Printables:
www.printables.com/model/3549...
3DChameleon on printables:
www.printables.com/search/mod...
Link to printed parts tension sliders on Tinkercad:
www.tinkercad.com/things/0JBX...
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Fantastic! I have been chipping away at installing one of these and I had no clue about the PTFE barbs! He should pay you to make official support videos for this
Lol! I'm happy to help. Thanks for watching
Wow, Chris... this is awesome!!! Great job. I can't wait to see the others!
Thanks so much!
@@ChrisRileyChris if they want some help with software for it I'll have a crack at it and if I make something useful I'll gift it to the company. They could take this product to a polished state if their team wasn't so small. Not a knock against the product. I like to see clever people succeed and they need more rnd backing.
Glad to see this series! I have been struggling with my Chameleon for about a year now. It gets so close, but hasn't hit reliable enough to leave installed. Mine is a MK3, so I guess I will give the MK4 parts a go, before I throw in the towel.
I'm happy to help! Thanks for watching
Thank you for this Chris. I have a small comment on the 2 filament feeder gears. If the stepper has a little spacer between it and the housing, you will be able to get both to bit onto the flat spot of the stepper. without that flat spot, one would run the risk of the gear slipping, and possibly causing a print failure. I would also use locktite on that screw if the spacer isnt possible. I see there is already a bit of a spacer built in.
Thanks for watching! I agree, I think we could come up with a better way to space this so we can get it on the shaft properly.
Nice video Chris. I wish I had this before I struggled for so long with this.
Glad it was helpful! More to come!
Thanks for your great effort in making this video; I can't wait for part II. I bought the 3D Chameleon a few months ago, but I have not yet set it up since the instructions are unclear, and this video helps a lot.
Glad it was helpful! More to come
Thank you for this, Chris
Thanks for watching! Happy to help
Great video Chris!
Thanks!
I've been on the fence about this product. First video that fully explains how it functions. Thanks. Just made my decision for me😂
Thanks for watching!
great video and explanation! I didn't know about that! thanks Chris!
Cool, thanks!
After seeing there are new parts available to print and update, I've decided to give another go at trying to get it to work properly. I'm sure with your videos I'll have a better shot than before and plan to use on my Prusa MK3s since I'm awaiting the MMU3 to ship for the MK4.
Thanks for watching. More to come!
My thanks for the perfect explanation! Keep it up bud!
Thanks!
its a genius mechanism
🙂👍
Thanks 😊 Great video!
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching
Orange and Green - That is always good! - I got that one - lol
John, you just like the fancy colors
LOL!
The video I’ve been waiting on!
👍🙂
Was having all kinds of issues with multiple paths moving filament at the same time. Turned out the bearing on the cam wasn't all the way down. Saved a bunch of headache. Still have headaches to go, but one down! Thanks.
I'm glad you got going! Now, on the the next problem! Thanks for watching
I had endless issues with the Y and filament slipping between the cracks. Ended up scrapping the whole thing after about 40 hrs of tuning.
Stringing can be controlled by tuning the filament temperature during the color swap or by implementing the 3DClippy filament cutter.
🙂👍
Jason, what version did you get?
Would you be interested in selling it?
cool, same with the comments below, looking forward to the series Chris
Thanks, more to come!
I can already see this can be easily integrated in a Klipper printer, just add a microcontroller and 2 stepper drivers, RAMPS is a good option, define some macros and 2 manual stepper motors in the config file and you are good to go, there is no need of the trigger switch as Klipper will controls the steppers directly.
🙂👍
Another potential option if you're buying a board anyway, and assuming you're currently only using the standard 4 or 5 steppers, is to get one of the bigger boards, like the BigTreeTech Octopus or Manta M8P which each have 8 drivers. The Manta has the advantage of adding a CB1/CB2 or CM4/CM5 directly to the board so it runs Klipper natively without an additional Raspberry Pi on the side to deal with. That's one of the reasons I'm here... I have a Manta with 3 open drivers, so I'm looking for something I can plug directly into my board to get multiple colors. The ERCF looked promising but it required an expansion board for all the sensors and LEDs, and for some reason my printer detects the expansion board but refuses to talk to it.
Awesome!!!’
Thanks!!
Great video got everything ready to go, just one question. Where did you find a 10mm socket?
Lol! I bought 30 and I could only find this one!
I have two 3D chameleon - I bought one (MK2) it didn't work, but I saved it. I bought ankther one (MK3) and tried to run it on a Sovol Sv06, I also couldn't make it work. I am going to give it another try. I had all the issues you mentioned: the bearing center piece slipping, Y connector being too lose, not enough tolerance at the extruder entrance to switch filaments, etc. I gave up on it. Perhaps I should try again by taking in consideration your tips.
Give it another try. More to come! Thanks
Cant wait for the rest of this series. I just got mine for xmas and just built myself a servo cutter for use with klipper. Will wait to see the next videos. Do you have a time frame for the next ones?
What does your servo cutter do? Is it like the Bambu Lab system where the filament is cut in the hot end?
It is to cut the filament just above the hotend but below extruder(direct drive) still working out the small details but i melded it with a herome gen7 bmg so it would work with my setup
They'll be out in the next few weeks!
@@SirMcstoney This sounds great, I have this feature on my X1 Carbon but would like to have it on my other printers, are the files available to download?
@@AndrewAHayesi can load what i have onto printables i havnt installed it yet though
for the extruder gear that is on the round part of the motor shaft below the keyed section, would you recommend trying to grind a small flat spot for your grub screw to tighten against, just to prevent issues with the gear slipping?
If you have the means to do so, yes, I think it would be a help.
what are those clear tubes? Got a link?
I've been using a flashlight to see where the filament is in my cloudy white tubes lol
having clear tubes would make this whole chameleon endeavor a little easier
These cam with my Chameleon version one, I think they are FEP. amzn.to/3Tz7ImS (aff)
Great video as always! Just wondering, do you think this might work with different types of filament instead of just different colors? Say like PETG and TPU? To form a gasket to your 3D printed part.
Sure, it works with any filament your printer can handle. We don't add or remove any filament capability to your existing printer, so if it can print it fine today, it will be able to with the 3DChameleon as well.
Thank you for fielding these questions for us, Bill 🙂
Chris can you recommend a tool to easily get the wires out of the motor connectors, I have another project where I need to swap the two inner wires around
Hello Andrew, you can try a small needle to release the barb, - worth a shot
The tip of the knife we include is perfect for that.
@@woodwaker1 I tried a large paper clip end but couldn't get them to open, Im thinking of grinding down a cheap terminal screwdriver to a point and see if that will open them as I will be able to get better purchase on the the tool
I have done this before with my first printer a Mendel 90 when I got the wires the wrong way around when making a motor lead but I cant remember what I used, I don't remember having any issues though, as far as I can remember it was a very simple process
I suppose I could always make a new lead if push comes to shove, I have all the components and wire and a crimper for the terminals.
Thanks Dave and Bill
Hello Chris, Where can I get the control boards and micro switch ? Also you wouldn't happen to have a SKR E3 Turbo laying around you would like to sell ? Thank You
The switch you can get anywhere. The control board is only available from 3D Chameleon.
Huh, I was just about to buy a MMU3.... I wonder if I should go with this instead.
Tough call!
So I need to buy it anyway?
Is there a way to print the Y path (the green part)?
And get the electronics somewhere else?
Not that I know of.
firmware isn't open source unfortunately. I feel like the price is mostly paying for the software not the motors and tubes and splitter
Could we use the Bambu Lab 4 into 1 filament feeder used on the A1 instead of that tall y splitter? It's also a much more compact cleaner look
Sure, on the A1 and A1 mini, we use it by default.
@@williamsteele great I was thinking of using that A1 4 into 1 on the K1 Max and build a structure above it so I can have a shorter run to the print head
@@DanielChaves1984 Well... the Y adapter we have doesn't actually cause any issues with it... but their design is a lot smaller, but I don't know how you'd adapt it... it's spring loaded and has features inside it that go down into the extruder. I'd love to see what you come up with.
Thanks, Bill!
silly question, once switch mounted onto machine, how do you access the switch to load / unload filament?
I will show all this in next video. There are a lot of mounts out there for different machines.
can this setup be used on a creality k1 with the locking extruder?
I'm not sure on the extruder, but there is a great printables page on it. www.printables.com/model/653583-3dchameleon-mk3-installation-for-the-creality-k1-a
@@ChrisRiley thank you very much! that super helpful + you video is great to. i may just cough up the $180 for it and give it a try, its just the k1 i my only printer right now and dont want it down for to long lol
I think I'm about to order one . . . but I don't see the MK4 on the web site, just the MK3 at $179. Is the only difference the way the bowden tube is attached? If so, it's an easy enough upgrade . . .
Great video, and I'm looking forward to the next one!
The printed parts are our internal version Mk4, the unit we sell is the Mk3... Same thing. Mk3 kit uses the Mk4 printed parts.
👍🙂
Does this have a multi-spool mode similar to a mosaic palette?
Good question, that would be handy, but it has no way to detect runout.
@@ChrisRiley I have a palette 2 and have run into a bunch of issues with it. I print large parts and I’m in search of trying to figure out a good method to print multi spool parts without buying a more expensive 3kg roll. Any advice?
@@tackletestdummy9096 I'm not OP, but might I suggest you look into the Enraged Rabbit Carrot Feeder? It has a silly name, but it's a print-it-yourself open source MMU (you'll still need to find a kit with all the hardware if you don't want the hassle of sourcing literally every little piece yourself) that uses an "expansion board" to have filament runout sensors on all (usually 8 but 4 or 12 is also doable) color inputs which allows you to have two inputs that are the same color and when one runs out it switches over to the other. It's much more complicated to set up, I've given up on it myself (my printer is recognizing the expansion board's existence but refusing to talk to it), which is why I'm here looking at the 3D Chameleon, but if you can get it to work it'll do exactly what you're asking. It requires the printer be running Klipper though, since it is controlled by the printer firmware talking to an "expansion board", so it's not quite as universal, and it does take up considerable amount of space. There's a couple other similar devices that all do the same thing, but the ERCF v2 has incorporated all the major improvements the community has made over the last several years.
To be clear, you would have to create your own macro in Klipper, basically saying that "if filament sensor T0 senses the filament runs out, do a color switch to T7". Obviously you can change those numbers, like you could make it T6 and T7, or if you had a 12-input version you could double up every color and tell it "if T# runs out, switch to T(#+6)", etc.
The alternative, if you really want to use the 3D Chameleon, is to have a runout sensor immediately after the Y, and basically have the printer do a (move away from the part and PAUSE) function if it detects the filament has run out. Then you'll have to manually swap the rolls yourself. It's less convenient but at least functional.
When did the MK3 come out and how do we know if we have the 2 or 3? I don’t remember exactly when I got it I think it was a year ago. Love the product but I think the name and labeling are confusing. Has to be a better way.
I'm not sure on dates, the printed parts might have stamps on them. The biggest tell is the brass coupler on the end of the PTFE tube, if it still has those, it's a MK2 version.
Bill from 3D Chameleon stated in some of the videos he's been in that you can link multiple 3D Chameleons together to get more colors, up to 32 with the MK3 and pretty much infinite with the MK4. But I haven't found anything that discusses that. Do you know how that would work? I would love to have more than 4 colors if at all possible.
It would be a very interesting setup. You would have to link all the Y pipes, then find custom locations for all the switches and code how to trigger each one.
Does the Cameleon drive the filament during the print process or just to load and unload the filament. I have a direct drive extruder and I don't think you could every get two drives to play well together for a long period of time.
It's just to load and unload. It's challenging to get them setup where they don't fight one another.
Can this by chance “hooked up” to ender 3Pro with SKR E3V3 ?
Yes!
I know this is a big ask.... but please talk about tip shaping vs 3dClippy. As much as i want to try to design my own version of 3Dclippy...i don't want to permanently afix one to my extruder
I'll look into it!
Where can I buy the Y pipe?
It comes in a kit!
Link to 3D Chameleon:
www.3dchameleon.com/
Hey is there anywhere a printable file of the cam?
I will give than one to @williamsteele 😀
The CAM is on the same Printables page as the other Mk4 parts.
Hi. Couldn't find tutorial on firmware update in the description
He hasn't posted it yet, but we have a step by step guide on our support forum on the website.
Coming soon!
Does it work with the Creality K1?
Assuming if it does that k1 max should work too hopefully
Yes, both the K1 and K1 Max files are on Printables.
👍🙂
im trying one on my N-E-cubic predator
That's great! More to come!
Ciao complimenti per il video vorrei sapere che scheda usi che vedo nel video grazie e complimenti se hai un link su dove acqustarla
The board comes with the Chameleon Kit. Thank you for watching our videos!
Ma non si può comprare singolarmente questa scheda
At 4:37 you say mark 4 version of the parts, I can only find mark 3 for sale on their site, did you mean mark 3?
The printed parts are Mk4... the kits are Mk3 because that's where the software and the electronics rev is at.
@@williamsteele What features or benefits come with upgrading to Mk4?
Bingo! Thanks
Mark 4 is coming with TMC2209s and a lower price, and a lot of automation included.
Awesome! Thanks for watching
Another stupid question, do you see any possible way to keep a filament sensor on a direct drive printer and use the Chameleon?
Yes, it depends on the firmware, but you can use commands to turn filament detection on and off for the swap outs.
@@ChrisRiley I would love to put the existing filament sensor between the chameleon wye and the extruder, if I had to I would put one before each the four Boden tubes and figure out how to wire them to make them look like on sensor.
I ran my extruder dry once and paid the price. I'll never run the printer without some sort of filament runout protection.
P.S. I have a stock Ender 3 S1 Pro, except I've upgraded the part cool fan, because mine failed.
@@The3DPrintingGrandad Let me think on it, maybe we can come up with a good way to implement some sensors.
@@ChrisRiley I would love to work with you on this. I have several decades of experience in automated manufacturing. I have implemented solutions for adapting sensors to manufacturing equipment.
My contact information is on my empty channel.
I've had one sitting next to my printer for a few months now, I am a little apprehensive. Not that there is an issue the the product, It looks to be great quality, I am just worried about my ability to deal with having to change gcode.
Maybe I can help. More to come!
I could not see the stl to cam
Here you go www.printables.com/model/354998-3dchameleon-mk4-upgrade-parts-with-ptfe-grip/files
26:20 - I'm confused, you called one of them "one" and the other "one", too?
Would it not be easier to call one of them "one" and call the other "two", or should "one" be called "two" as as it has two marks and other called "four" as it has four marks.. or would that confuse things as "one" (or "two") as a cable with one mark whereas "two" (or "four") has a cable with two marks... Hmmm.
It could be A and B as well. Just away to mark them and keep the wires straight. It is a valuable thing to do. He doesn't show the board in its case, but once it is in the case, you can't see the labels on the board. I went as far as labeling the outside of the case as well, it can get confusing if you have to unplug things to move it. It is a bit of an octopus of wires when mounting and setting up.
Let's go with A and B.
I lost my cam piece need to replace it
Here you go www.printables.com/model/354998-3dchameleon-mk4-upgrade-parts-with-ptfe-grip/files
Pcb doesn't sold separately.😢
We only sell the full kit.
🙂👍
FINALLY... the original attempt on the printables page never got uploaded? Made me sad.
Can I ask what you mean by this?
🤔
Hi Chris! Oh man... you didn't show us a single print with it - the suspense is gonna make me sick! ha ha ha Desperate for the Part 2
Maniacal Laugh! More to come!
couldnt get it to work for me
Don't give up, more to come!
Not sure on the fanboy wagon here. I see a lot of people having trouble with the MK3 version. Then I go to the Chameleon website and, it appears, they only sell the MK3. I could not find any offer for the MK4 variant. Chris, you implied a MK4 version for $199, the current reality looks like I would need to buy an MK3, print parts, disassemble and reassemble. Guess I'll sit back and wait to see how much a PIA the gcode part will be.
@williamsteele replied this to a similar comment earlier:
The printed parts are our internal version Mk4, the unit we sell is the Mk3... Same thing. Mk3 kit uses the Mk4 printed parts.
Thanks for showing us how to set it up...But I think I'll get a Bambu 3D Printer instead.
Thanks for watching
Can't buy it. I'm from Brazil and it would cost me over 500,00 USD due to shipping cost and stupid import taxes. I wish i could buy the unusual hardware and the board in separe packages, print my own parts and just source common parts localy. I really want to invest in a multicolor solution and the 3d chameleon looks great. Too bad it isn't feasible.
I'm sorry to hear that.
Does Brazil have a service that works like Comparto Mi Maleta (Perú/Chile)? I used it before when I lived there and it was affordable. If you have a friend in Lima or Santiago maybe they could forward it to you?
Man they must be gangbusters with the markup above bom cost thats including the sparsely populated, cheapest component / board i could etch myself haha. Wow. There cant be 35 dollars worth of stuff there. Im being generous. I hope they paid you alot to do the tutorial. You deserve it. Im not trolling you. You deserve to be paid well for the good work you do. It must use the pro micro ic as the serial interface with the printer then to do all the 8 bit low level commands to the motors. If they didnt need an eeprom they couldve used an even cheaper microcontroller. They couldve sprung for some better "step sticks" as the old fogies call them. The first time i heard a dude say step sticks i almost guffawed because it's an incredibly vague name for them, barely what i would call descriptive. I define a stick as something a blind person can touch and immediately identify.
Haha jk. Great tutorial man
There is years of work in that product, and 3 full time employees to pay. Not withstanding the building, print farm, etc., etc. We are the lowest cost filament changer on the market at $179. The next closest to us is $249, but only works on one brand of printers.
No offence taken. Just to keep us on the level, I don't get paid for any of these videos. Cost of components aside, being able to add multi-material to ANY printer shows what value the Chameleon can bring. This mechanism is truly unique in it's operation
@ChrisRiley I get ya. I think you should charge, which is what I mean. You do good work.
@williamsteele it would be cool if they had more financial backing. They could bring it out of beta and be rich people. They'd need a good software engineer or 3 Facebook level programmers haha.
Thanks for telling me that. I feel I was too harsh. If they could polish the product up alot (it's a complicated project for so few people) it's still alpha quality from my research but I'm going to buy one to support them. If there were not so many different microcontrollers and pi variants now because of klipper the software would be the killer app for it. Fortunately, I'm young, retired, educated and have no life really other than engineering electronics as a hobby and shredding metal on my guitars. I'd like to have a stab at writing some software for it. I'm rusty in all but c++ (being a software engineer you'd think I'd have gotten a job in the industry being I had the highest grades but I like circuit based math better).
I've got a 3 month hospital stay coming soon though and I can't take my printer along with my guitars. I wish I could shred dream theater 30 years ago when I was 15 but nope. This a lofty goal with many thousands of hours listening to a metronome click haha. I have adhd and ramble. Sorry. I was gonna buy the red fluke 87v tonight but maybe I'll make a digikey order and order the chameleon.
Great work Chris. I want to see log print the mmu file of the Cheshire cat from Alice in wonderland. Post a short and I'll give ya 50 for a hoot. Haha
@@jstro-hobbytech You focus a lot on software. What specifically do you think needs to add or improve in it and how? The issue we face is that there are so many varieties of different printers, and coming up with a way to interface with them all requires the simplest interface of all... and that doesn't get any simpler than a single button. There is no software needed beyond the ability of the tool chains ability to inject color changes when it is needed. So, I guess I'm confused as to where you think adding software will help.
Now, with that said, I think the biggest issue isn't software at all, but rather in the knowledge transfer... documentation and demonstrations. I'm one person, so being able to convey that in a simple manner is more important to me. The Mk4 will bring a whole lot of new capabilities, and is also "self documenting" and "self configuring" in a way (via the internal firmware) to avoid some of the issues that people face with the earlier designs. And the elimination of some of the previously needed steps in configuration, which instead of documenting them, we've eliminated that requirement all together, which is the ultimate goal. (I'm a strong believer in reducing the complexity of the system, while still maintaining the core functionality... and adding software really isn't the answer to that... eliminating the need for it is.) Once you see what the Mk4 brings, you'll understand it more.