Best fail video I've seen for a while. LMAO did a great job on erasing the pencil lines. He should have cut the test piece into three separate parts, it was obvious that the chemicals were going to mix.
Contact cleaner "shootout" ??? After the bullets stopped flying, nothing was resolved! The Deoxit D5 should have been left to do its thing for ten minutes before wiping off any residue. The "contact cleaner" bled into the WD-40, so no conclusion was possible there. "C+" for effort though.
but @Steve Ellington...... that WD40 is the Multi-Use Lubricant... not the Contact Cleaner... the "WD-40 SPECIALIST Contact Cleaner"..... is the rival of DeoxIT... :-\
@@Ramdileo_sys WD-40 is not a good lubricant and never has been. It is a water displacing formula with some lubricating abilities. There are lubricants that work much better and do not attract dust as badly.
for general lubrication @sarge1231 ??... or for Contact Cleaning?? this was about Contact Cleaning.. and @Steve Ellington is using traditional WD40.. not the Contact Cleaning one...
@@Ramdileo_sys It is not made for either, and there are better solutions made for both. It is not, and was not designed to be a lubricant or contact cleaner. It does have some lubricating properties. It also has some solvent, and I have often used it lightly to repel water in switches on my motorcycle and prevent rust. but not a heavy spray to clean the contacts, just a very light spray to replace the protective coating the contact cleaner removed. For lubricating purposes silicone, PTFE, and lithium grease are good depending on the application. I am not saying it can't ever be used as a lubricant, because we all sometimes use what we have on hand, but it is not the best choice as a lubricant.
I used Deoxit for years to clean potentiometers.Worked good. Tried WD40 and it performed as well and sometimes better. I stick with the cheaper WD40 with no ill effects !
Heya! I know super 4 years ago, but am faced with some Signal Killing Switches (for recording}.(Engaging, or even grazing them will clip the output signal on this mic pre... then requires fiddling to get and keep the signal flowing} ..and fyi, this bit of gear is Good, but inexpensive} Wondering if WD is ok to use on small switches that are more or less sealed. Silly Question, but if you have any advice would be most grateful. Cheers and THANK YOU!
@@kingpencowboy7977 Heya! ^..^ (best of luck!} FYI~ It ended up actually working for me!.. Here is what I did, as it is a `Less is More` situation.. OK! ~ Obvious stuff first,, Unplug, then hit the power button to drain any potential leftover energy stored in various caps, etc..} Open your gear up as much as possible so it can breathe.. (or stick a small fan on there.. wither way is a + ..and ideally in a place it can sit for about one to two days. ~Application~ Use anything you can if the switches are more or less `sealed` (small straw and Very light application ( i used a paper towel to gauge the flow from can at a certain pressure at the cap to see how much was coming out} Or even a q~Tip lightly saturated so when you press it against the bits in question, a little will drizzle out and get into the hard to reach areas}. too much here is not recommended. Repeat again if needed.. (i had to hit mine twice} and get a very Small amount of WD4o where the post of the switch (or pot, in your case} actually sinks down into the body of the switch\pot connecting to the pcb. Then after working a bit 3o sec to a minute of pushing or rotating.. Let unit sit in the open air unplugged for one to two days. (one day is ok if you can put a mild heat lamp on it, or live in a non humid location, to encourage evaporation. Check and see how it feels.* Also, It Will smell a bit like wd4o when you first turn it on and it warms up. Fine as it is a water displacer.. but the residue will eventually dissipate. I went from the preamp going from unusable to quiet as a mouse in about 3 days. *Just make sure you go light, Work it in, and let sit and evaporate. I was happily surprised and it really did work great. I really hope this helps.. someone.. Lol .,. Cheers!!! A little patience goes a Long way..
DeoxIT is great. I have used it for years. It cleans up noisy dirty switches, lubricates them. And just as importantl is very plastic safe for older equipment.
I just recently got into vintage audio and have cleaned several switches/ potentiometers with the deoxit d5 and it has fixed the ones that were staticky or not working at All. Probably has a lubricant on purpose.
Not sure why they are comparing WD-40 with the other two. They are entirely different products for different use. WD-40 is not a contact cleaner, a lubricant, an anti-seize, a penetrating oil, or a de-greaser. It is an indirect rust inhibitor. While it has properties that may clean, lubricate, penetrate, and degrease, originally, it had one purpose: WATER DISPLACEMENT. That is how it got the "WD" in its name. It's development was achieved in the laboratory on the fortieth attempt at concocting a solution to displace water, giving it the "40" suffix and the full name WD-40. It was originally designed for the US military. It's purpose is to drive water out of mechanical joints. It was never intended to do anything else. While WD-40 may do other things, there are better lubricants, penetrating oils, de-greasers, anti-seize compounds, rust removers, rust inhibitors, and contact cleaners. All other uses were consumer marketing and consumer experimentation and may or may not be useful or safe applications. As always, follow manufacturer directions on the can.
WD-40 *is* a lubricant. This word-of-mouth nonsense about it not being a lubricant is listed as one of their myths on their own site. People will just repeat what others say....it's like talking to the grunts at Home Depot. Read it yourself if you want: www.wd40.com/cool-stuff/myths-legends-fun-facts
I don't know the chemicals in the WD contact cleaner but it's probably almost the same as the Lowes or CRC contact cleaner, (Isohexane, Ethanol and n-Hexane) meant for plug contacts, (they show a plug right on the label) not electronic switches or pots since it removes all lubrication from the device.
To really clean a bad potientiometer, I use brake cleaner and after 1 or 2 second, I put some contact cleaner to clean the brake cleaner stuff., My volume still work again and nice after 2 years on my H.K. citation eleven. louis
Interesting that the deoxit was the oiliest when the WD is a penetrating OIL??? Another vid done by an electronic expert says deoxit is designed with a residual oil to lubricate and protect rotary or slide potentiometers. Your test was really deoxit vs WD and lowes contact cleaner mix since you sprayed them together. Deoxit is supposed to leave a film, OF LUBRICANT. You made one good statement at about 8:45 and 10:45 when you said you would follow up the contact cleaner with a lubricant when cleaning a switch or "pot". I would not spray CLR into any electronic component, it has mild acids in it which are not good to leave in there unless you can completely flush it out. Read the labels and you can see by the chemicals listed how they work. I'd bet the contact cleaner has some very strong solvents that dissolve grease and oil so lubrication needs to be added back after use on anything, it's really intended for plugs and you should apply some dielectric grease to most before plugging back together anyway. The thing to remember is that you are trying to clean oxidation then coat the bare metal with a lubricant to allow smooth operation and prevent wear and most importantly, oxidation (corrosion), which causes poor contact again, the reason you needed to clean it in the first place. While I appreciate you doing the experiment the best way you can I think it is a little misleading although you had a couple good comments.
Once I was told to do not use WD40 in switches or contacts because it is greasy but after several, I mean several tries in one or two years, to get rid of a bad contact on my Yamaha A3090 input selector using contact cleaners, tried 2 or 3 of the most expensive ones, I decided to give WD40 a try, and guess what, my old A3090 started working as it was brand new!!!. Of course that was 30 min ago, hopefully it lasts without side effects.
From what I've been learning about working on old radios and test equipment, you have to make sure that the cleaner doesn't destroy the plastics or the coating on the circuit boards. So, a cleaner may be great at cleaning but if it destroys the potentiometer or switch or circuit board then you're not really ahead of the game, are you? Make sure, like on the DeOxit cans, that it says "SAFE FOR PLASTICS" or "SAFE FOR MOST PLASTICS".
+Mystery47 Deoxit is safe for MOST plastics....Note M O S T. Same for WD40. Do not use on poly-carbonates and clear polystyrene per the manufacture. You better find out what "MOST" includes before using DeOxit.
Steve Ellington I've been perusing many of the forums that specialize in ham radio and shortwave radio and repair. The two cleaners that they swear by universally in order of preference is Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) and DeOxit. Anything else such as WD-40 or CRC products are not shunned but not recommended either. As you say, they should be used at your own risk. Many of the old timers and old time electrical engineers say they've been using DeOxit for decades and they rave about the results. As for me, I'll thoroughly clean any pots or switches with IPA first and then apply DeOxit sparingly. I did just buy some CRC, though. It is an IPA spray can so it should be okay for chassis cleaning.
not an expert here, but worked in a electronic repair shop for several years, we seldom used WD40 for anything, I never sprayed it into controls etc. we bought stuff from the parts place for that.
but @Steve Ellington...... that WD40 is the Multi-Use Lubricant... not the Contact Cleaner... the "WD-40 SPECIALIST Contact Cleaner"..... is the rival of DeoxIT... :-\
Can see what you were trying to achieve. Like your videos anyway - in particular the Deoxit dedicated one. Good try, execution was a bit flawed as you'll know yourself, but you didn't deserve some of the nasty comments from some here because of it if they have seen some of your other videos they would know why. Keep up the good work
With all do respect sir, you are not using the DeoxIT correctly. You are not suppose to wipe the diluted spray off. It cleans as it disolves. The oily film evaporates as it dries.
WD-40 can be used on just about everything. It is safe for metal, rubber, wood and plastic. WD-40 can be applied to painted metal surfaces without harming the paint. Polycarbonate and clear polystyrene plastic are among the few surfaces on which to avoid using a petroleum-based product like WD-40.
In my experience, I've found it best to use a contact cleaner WITHOUT a lubricant in it because not all contacts need it, and it leaves a film. After cleaning, if the part needs lubricant, like a fader or pot, I'll use an electrical contact lubricant or even grease depending on the application. I prefer Radio Shack's house brand contact cleaner. I hate Radio Shack, but their contact cleaner works great. Hope this helps. Oh, also, most of mt experience is with musical instruments and loudspeaker systems and effects. So if that's the way you're looking to use these type of products, I can recommend them for that. PS DxoxIT sucks. I have a full can on my workbench because I never use the stuff.
+Guitar Whores Problem: Many switch contacts are manufactured impregnated with lubricant and using switch cleaners WITHOUT lubricant can dry out the contacts and cause rapid wear. TenTec, a ham radio manufacture, in their manual for one of their early products warned against using typical contact cleaners on their band switches. Yes indeed, Deoxit is really cheap stuff with a high price tag. DeOxit's man use is for washing brains.
Ok so I just tested WD40 with my atomic conductivity meter and it shows +42 millimohs which is slightly better than zero resistance. I'll have to spray DeOxit on it to neutralize the reaction with the copper before it totally disappears.
This video I thought was to settle some answers, but... hes more confused and mixing em, lol. Now that's for vid# 2 edition!?! But thank you for enlightening the ideas what does what! Thank you!
Deoxit D5 leaves a protective conductive film to prevent oxidation. That's what makes it the top choice for electronics. Very UN-scientific demonstration.
There are many cleaners all with a compromise into or onto what surface or component you are trying to clean. Don’t think that’s a good comparison for electronics.
I thought this was wd-40 electric contact cleaner but this may have been before that came out but I guess if you knew it was all copper you could use like some delimer which is some kind of diluted acid and hit it with some water or something like that and or some baking soda water mix
Holy cow. I never would have thought to try CLR. Thanks for the video :-) Would you recommend CLR, WD-40, or something else to clean small wire connectors? I'd like to clean the insides of my female Deans T-plug style battery connectors.
I play it safe and don't recommend anything. CLR eats copper! Wash it off quickly. It can also make your nose bleed if you breath the fumes. I know cuz I used it in the shower ONCE.
$18 for the Deoxi can is a rip off. I make my own using my home made organic soap. Yep clean and lubricate electrical contacts and 20 other uses. It is organic soap all the way no chemical craps. Thinking of making and selling my own brand!!!!!!!!
No offense Sir but I think I'd test this off video before posting.......and I'm not trying to be disrespectful. I just don't see that this proved too much of anything. For the record I do use the WD version.......seems to work well enough and it's fairly inexpensive. Have a good day and thanks for the effort. : )
This is possibly the most foolish suggestion ever, based on my past experience. Early on and long ago, when first married, I tried putting comet in my dishwasher. She fought like hell and hit me in the head with the radio. Please don't make that mistake, once the green starts fading from her tongue, the payback is brutal.
I appreciate the efforts but... all you managed to do is make a mixture of contact cleaner on a plate of metal! Maybe next time use individual pieces of metal!
Hi Steve, I know this video is from 2013 and wonder if you have done any more experimentation? I did find this interesting response on the web: My first personal test of Deoxit went like this. I found the grungiest dark brown penny I had, and put it up on a shelf, with a single drop of D100 over Lincoln's face, and left it to sit. Within a month, the circle had a blue/green scum floating on it. I wiped off the scum, and under that was a nice clean circle of copper (surrounded by the brown). It is like it turns the clock back on copper; releasing the oxidization from the surface, and preventing it from worsening. (END) Perhaps Deoxit takes more time to do it's thing than you experienced in your test. I have also hear that brake or carb cleaner does a very good job but I would be concerned using it in electronics since I don't know the pH and how it might affect plastics and other materials. Have you found other products for contact cleaning that you were impressed with? It seems to me for the money, there may be some good alternatives. I have had some other cleaners in my shop that did very well. Just not sure how they compare to deoxit over time. Even with deoxit, I have seen no long lasting results and have found some electronics requiring subsequent treatments after a few years. 73, Glenn WA4AOS
No more testing Glenn. I've never had any negative results with WD40 on contacts. I did splurge once and bought that little can of Deoxit and used it on a long rotary switch. It left a lot of oily residue.
Prety much what i found doing exact test, without overspray. WD40 great cleaner i also found alcohol is just as good or better, without residue. I found it humorous someone else actually did an actual test instead of repeating folklore. These can clean pots, bug pots require special attention to lubrication.
I was just in an Amazon Business tab all signed into my account. I had this big thought cloud over my head. "I sure miss the smell of De-Oxit. Or was that De-Oxid? Or was it De-Oxid - Gold? Or was it De-Oxit that had the "-Gold"? Wait a minute...I need to google-up a what's whut here!" You vit-chyo came up. I fast-forwarded through the yadda yadda bits n cut straight to the meat n taters bit where CLR proved king. and WD-40 proved best lube. And you SAID IT. SO: Thank you kind sir! I have a case of gallons of WD-40 and two pump sprayer cans WD-40 makes just for refilling, I have 3 dozen hypodermic squirt bottles to put it in, as well. I have a case with four gallons of commercial CLR constipate. I've got two milwaukee sprayers and a
the dioxit is a lubricant as well as a cleaner its meant to be oil left over for the likes of control knobs / faders on audio mixers etc.
Best fail video I've seen for a while. LMAO did a great job on erasing the pencil lines.
He should have cut the test piece into three separate parts, it was obvious that the chemicals were going to mix.
Contact cleaner "shootout" ??? After the bullets stopped flying, nothing was resolved! The Deoxit D5 should have been left to do its thing for ten minutes before wiping off any residue. The "contact cleaner" bled into the WD-40, so no conclusion was possible there. "C+" for effort though.
Wait ten minutes and WD40 would have done even more moon man.
but @Steve Ellington...... that WD40 is the Multi-Use Lubricant... not the Contact Cleaner...
the "WD-40 SPECIALIST Contact Cleaner"..... is the rival of DeoxIT... :-\
@@Ramdileo_sys WD-40 is not a good lubricant and never has been. It is a water displacing formula with some lubricating abilities. There are lubricants that work much better and do not attract dust as badly.
for general lubrication @sarge1231 ??... or for Contact Cleaning??
this was about Contact Cleaning.. and @Steve Ellington is using traditional WD40.. not the Contact Cleaning one...
@@Ramdileo_sys It is not made for either, and there are better solutions made for both. It is not, and was not designed to be a lubricant or contact cleaner. It does have some lubricating properties. It also has some solvent, and I have often used it lightly to repel water in switches on my motorcycle and prevent rust. but not a heavy spray to clean the contacts, just a very light spray to replace the protective coating the contact cleaner removed. For lubricating purposes silicone, PTFE, and lithium grease are good depending on the application. I am not saying it can't ever be used as a lubricant, because we all sometimes use what we have on hand, but it is not the best choice as a lubricant.
The CLR is acidic and basically just etched the surface of the board. It would leave a rough surface that would oxidize quickly.
I used Deoxit for years to clean potentiometers.Worked good. Tried WD40 and it performed as well and sometimes better. I stick with the cheaper WD40 with no ill effects !
Heya! I know super 4 years ago, but am faced with some Signal Killing Switches (for recording}.(Engaging, or even grazing them will clip the output signal on this mic pre... then requires fiddling to get and keep the signal flowing} ..and fyi, this bit of gear is Good, but inexpensive} Wondering if WD is ok to use on small switches that are more or less sealed. Silly Question, but if you have any advice would be most grateful. Cheers and THANK YOU!
@@remotexpolde i am gonna try WD 40 on my gap pre 73 preamp pots wish me luck 😩🤠🤞
@@kingpencowboy7977 Heya! ^..^ (best of luck!} FYI~ It ended up actually working for me!.. Here is what I did, as it is a `Less is More` situation.. OK! ~ Obvious stuff first,, Unplug, then hit the power button to drain any potential leftover energy stored in various caps, etc..} Open your gear up as much as possible so it can breathe.. (or stick a small fan on there.. wither way is a + ..and ideally in a place it can sit for about one to two days. ~Application~ Use anything you can if the switches are more or less `sealed` (small straw and Very light application ( i used a paper towel to gauge the flow from can at a certain pressure at the cap to see how much was coming out} Or even a q~Tip lightly saturated so when you press it against the bits in question, a little will drizzle out and get into the hard to reach areas}. too much here is not recommended. Repeat again if needed.. (i had to hit mine twice} and get a very Small amount of WD4o where the post of the switch (or pot, in your case} actually sinks down into the body of the switch\pot connecting to the pcb. Then after working a bit 3o sec to a minute of pushing or rotating.. Let unit sit in the open air unplugged for one to two days. (one day is ok if you can put a mild heat lamp on it, or live in a non humid location, to encourage evaporation. Check and see how it feels.* Also, It Will smell a bit like wd4o when you first turn it on and it warms up. Fine as it is a water displacer.. but the residue will eventually dissipate. I went from the preamp going from unusable to quiet as a mouse in about 3 days. *Just make sure you go light, Work it in, and let sit and evaporate. I was happily surprised and it really did work great. I really hope this helps.. someone.. Lol .,. Cheers!!! A little patience goes a Long way..
@@nightmareasmr92 oh my goodness you have given the best of you for what i needed this is perfectly put into words! Thx will respond with results
@@nightmareasmr92 also i have the cover off of mine I will take a video and copy link and paste it here
DeoxIT is great. I have used it for years. It cleans up noisy dirty switches, lubricates them. And just as importantl is very plastic safe for older equipment.
I just recently got into vintage audio and have cleaned several switches/ potentiometers with the deoxit d5 and it has fixed the ones that were staticky or not working at All. Probably has a lubricant on purpose.
Not sure why they are comparing WD-40 with the other two. They are entirely different products for different use. WD-40 is not a contact cleaner, a lubricant, an anti-seize, a penetrating oil, or a de-greaser. It is an indirect rust inhibitor. While it has properties that may clean, lubricate, penetrate, and degrease, originally, it had one purpose: WATER DISPLACEMENT. That is how it got the "WD" in its name. It's development was achieved in the laboratory on the fortieth attempt at concocting a solution to displace water, giving it the "40" suffix and the full name WD-40. It was originally designed for the US military. It's purpose is to drive water out of mechanical joints. It was never intended to do anything else. While WD-40 may do other things, there are better lubricants, penetrating oils, de-greasers, anti-seize compounds, rust removers, rust inhibitors, and contact cleaners. All other uses were consumer marketing and consumer experimentation and may or may not be useful or safe applications. As always, follow manufacturer directions on the can.
Because for some reason people have gotten the idea that WD-40 is useful for contact cleaning and many use it for that.
WD-40 does a contact cleaner wd40specialist.com/products/contact-cleaner/
WD-40 *is* a lubricant. This word-of-mouth nonsense about it not being a lubricant is listed as one of their myths on their own site. People will just repeat what others say....it's like talking to the grunts at Home Depot. Read it yourself if you want: www.wd40.com/cool-stuff/myths-legends-fun-facts
WD is also FLAMEABLE. I found this out the hard way.
I don't know the chemicals in the WD contact cleaner but it's probably almost the same as the Lowes or CRC contact cleaner, (Isohexane, Ethanol and n-Hexane) meant for plug contacts, (they show a plug right on the label) not electronic switches or pots since it removes all lubrication from the device.
Why so much hate on the guy? He is doing this to hopefully help us lot out. Thanks Steve
+Darryl Williams Thanks.
Certainly this isn't a highly scientific test but it covers the basics.
Steve Ellington exactly! i learned from this in a way and got the WD40 speciallist cleaner which worked great on my guitars so thanks again :)
WRONG WD40 was used for demo. use the WD40 Specialist Fast Drying Contact Cleaner.
To really clean a bad potientiometer, I use brake cleaner and after 1 or 2 second, I put some contact cleaner to clean the brake cleaner stuff., My volume still work again and nice after 2 years on my H.K. citation eleven. louis
Surely, using WD40 Contact Cleaner would have been a better choice, as it is specifically designed for cleaning electrical contacts.
Wrong WD-40 picked for the review. What you wanted was the WD-40 specialist electrical contact cleaner. Not the plain old lube.
Interesting that the deoxit was the oiliest when the WD is a penetrating OIL??? Another vid done by an electronic expert says deoxit is designed with a residual oil to lubricate and protect rotary or slide potentiometers. Your test was really deoxit vs WD and lowes contact cleaner mix since you sprayed them together. Deoxit is supposed to leave a film, OF LUBRICANT. You made one good statement at about 8:45 and 10:45 when you said you would follow up the contact cleaner with a lubricant when cleaning a switch or "pot".
I would not spray CLR into any electronic component, it has mild acids in it which are not good to leave in there unless you can completely flush it out. Read the labels and you can see by the chemicals listed how they work. I'd bet the contact cleaner has some very strong solvents that dissolve grease and oil so lubrication needs to be added back after use on anything, it's really intended for plugs and you should apply some dielectric grease to most before plugging back together anyway. The thing to remember is that you are trying to clean oxidation then coat the bare metal with a lubricant to allow smooth operation and prevent wear and most importantly, oxidation (corrosion), which causes poor contact again, the reason you needed to clean it in the first place. While I appreciate you doing the experiment the best way you can I think it is a little misleading although you had a couple good comments.
great response, thank you
Just to mention, Tarn-X will make that copper like new. It can be used cautiously on certain electrical contacts. Wipe dry.
Once I was told to do not use WD40 in switches or contacts because it is greasy but after several, I mean several tries in one or two years, to get rid of a bad contact on my Yamaha A3090 input selector using contact cleaners, tried 2 or 3 of the most expensive ones, I decided to give WD40 a try, and guess what, my old A3090 started working as it was brand new!!!. Of course that was 30 min ago, hopefully it lasts without side effects.
Mauricio Naga did it?
So, 3 years later... still working (also, was it wd regular, or the special WD for electrical contacts... Thanks!!
@@remotexpolde same question
From what I've been learning about working on old radios and test equipment, you have to make sure that the cleaner doesn't destroy the plastics or the coating on the circuit boards. So, a cleaner may be great at cleaning but if it destroys the potentiometer or switch or circuit board then you're not really ahead of the game, are you?
Make sure, like on the DeOxit cans, that it says "SAFE FOR PLASTICS" or "SAFE FOR MOST PLASTICS".
+Mystery47 Deoxit is safe for MOST plastics....Note M O S T. Same for WD40. Do not use on poly-carbonates and clear polystyrene per the manufacture. You better find out what "MOST" includes before using DeOxit.
Steve Ellington I've been perusing many of the forums that specialize in ham radio and shortwave radio and repair. The two cleaners that they swear by universally in order of preference is Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) and DeOxit.
Anything else such as WD-40 or CRC products are not shunned but not recommended either. As you say, they should be used at your own risk.
Many of the old timers and old time electrical engineers say they've been using DeOxit for decades and they rave about the results.
As for me, I'll thoroughly clean any pots or switches with IPA first and then apply DeOxit sparingly.
I did just buy some CRC, though. It is an IPA spray can so it should be okay for chassis cleaning.
But inside an iso-plug it should be alright to use wd40?
Oh god you got to be kidding me.
not an expert here, but worked in a electronic repair shop for several years, we seldom used WD40 for anything, I never sprayed it into controls etc. we bought stuff from the parts place for that.
WD40 is not WD Electrical Contact cleaner .. They are 2 separate products. I couldn't understand what this video is all about ..
Yeah. There's this "WD40 Specialist Fast-drying Contact Cleaner" that's intended for electronic components. A way way cheaper than "DeoxIT D5".
Liked the video, close enough to see what I wanted. Will continue using my method and not waist money. Thanks
but @Steve Ellington...... that WD40 is the Multi-Use Lubricant... not the Contact Cleaner...
the "WD-40 SPECIALIST Contact Cleaner"..... is the rival of DeoxIT... :-\
That's a copper "circuit board"? LOL. Man, would love to see someone try using that!
Thanks for this video. I for one enjoyed this video and found it helpful. Best regards
Can see what you were trying to achieve. Like your videos anyway - in particular the Deoxit dedicated one.
Good try, execution was a bit flawed as you'll know yourself, but you didn't deserve some of the nasty comments from some here because of it if they have seen some of your other videos they would know why.
Keep up the good work
With all do respect sir, you are not using the DeoxIT correctly. You are not suppose to wipe the diluted spray off. It cleans as it disolves. The oily film evaporates as it dries.
Will this work on a ECU contact/connector?? My car keeps cutting out and a diagnosis told me that I have a corroded ECU!?
All of them have blended together.....
Is WD40 plastic safe ? We sprayed WD40 on our worms for fishing. It worked but after a week the monofilament line went brittle and hard.
WD-40 can be used on just about everything. It is safe for metal, rubber, wood and plastic. WD-40 can be applied to painted metal surfaces without harming the paint. Polycarbonate and clear polystyrene plastic are among the few surfaces on which to avoid using a petroleum-based product like WD-40.
@@n4lq OK Thank you Steve.
So you read the Deoxit can and it says the product leave a protective coating and then you wonder what the oily residue is???
Well after that experiment I know what to not use on potentiometers.
Deoxit should be oily when almost dry...that is what lubricates the part...
Yes...If it is dry then it certainly won't be oily.
if YOU CLEAN WITH clr YOU WILL HAVE NO SWITCH LEFT!
In my experience, I've found it best to use a contact cleaner WITHOUT a lubricant in it because not all contacts need it, and it leaves a film. After cleaning, if the part needs lubricant, like a fader or pot, I'll use an electrical contact lubricant or even grease depending on the application. I prefer Radio Shack's house brand contact cleaner. I hate Radio Shack, but their contact cleaner works great. Hope this helps. Oh, also, most of mt experience is with musical instruments and loudspeaker systems and effects. So if that's the way you're looking to use these type of products, I can recommend them for that. PS DxoxIT sucks. I have a full can on my workbench because I never use the stuff.
+Guitar Whores Problem: Many switch contacts are manufactured impregnated with lubricant and using switch cleaners WITHOUT lubricant can dry out the contacts and cause rapid wear. TenTec, a ham radio manufacture, in their manual for one of their early products warned against using typical contact cleaners on their band switches. Yes indeed, Deoxit is really cheap stuff with a high price tag. DeOxit's man use is for washing brains.
That's why I say to use a separate lube. Clean it then lube it up.
would be interesting to see how super PB penetrating lubricant stacks up , it sure is in a class by itself with my truck and tractor bolts
Anything "Super" must be good!
When you start with a board that's different colors on the three sections and then conclude that the sections that were brighter did better... huh?
Ok so I just tested WD40 with my atomic conductivity meter and it shows +42 millimohs which is slightly better than zero resistance. I'll have to spray DeOxit on it to neutralize the reaction with the copper before it totally disappears.
I paint on Ketchup and white vinegar and leave if for an hour or two.
This video I thought was to settle some answers, but... hes more confused and mixing em, lol. Now that's for vid# 2 edition!?!
But thank you for enlightening the ideas what does what! Thank you!
he needs to go to "shake up" class.
This is coctail cleaner made with 20% of each chemical bottle you have under the sink
Always read the label and use the correct product correctly.
Deoxit D5 leaves a protective conductive film to prevent oxidation. That's what makes it the top choice for electronics. Very UN-scientific demonstration.
There are many cleaners all with a compromise into or onto what surface or component you are trying to clean. Don’t think that’s a good comparison for electronics.
Lastly, I’ll toss it in the air, and let the benelli go to work on it.
The vast majority of contacts are not copper. They are anti-corrosive alloys.
I thought this was wd-40 electric contact cleaner but this may have been before that came out but I guess if you knew it was all copper you could use like some delimer which is some kind of diluted acid and hit it with some water or something like that and or some baking soda water mix
Deoxit seems last longer to protect.
Holy cow. I never would have thought to try CLR. Thanks for the video :-)
Would you recommend CLR, WD-40, or something else to clean small wire connectors? I'd like to clean the insides of my female Deans T-plug style battery connectors.
I play it safe and don't recommend anything.
CLR eats copper! Wash it off quickly. It can also make your nose bleed if you breath the fumes. I know cuz I used it in the shower ONCE.
$18 for the Deoxi can is a rip off.
I make my own using my home made organic soap.
Yep clean and lubricate electrical contacts and 20 other uses.
It is organic soap all the way no chemical craps.
Thinking of making and selling my own brand!!!!!!!!
No offense Sir but I think I'd test this off video before posting.......and I'm not trying to be disrespectful. I just don't see that this proved too much of anything. For the record I do use the WD version.......seems to work well enough and it's fairly inexpensive. Have a good day and thanks for the effort. : )
Comet works best just poor in in your radio and put it in the dishwasher.
This is possibly the most foolish suggestion ever, based on my past experience. Early on and long ago, when first married, I tried putting comet in my dishwasher. She fought like hell and hit me in the head with the radio. Please don't make that mistake, once the green starts fading from her tongue, the payback is brutal.
U can get high off the blue one right?
oxidized copper turns green. that copper is just dirty. clr is just concentrated viniger.
Tried cleaning the shower with CLR and my nose started bleeding. No vinegar!
Copper will turn dark with age and corosion. Only with high moisture will it turn green. Look at your plumbing.
BullFrog electronic cleaner & corrosion , CRC 2-26 I use these with good results with a better price.
You should re-do it
I appreciate the efforts but... all you managed to do is make a mixture of contact cleaner on a plate of metal! Maybe next time use individual pieces of metal!
It’s no project farm test. LMAO
CLR, still the Show Stopper...LOL
Your test is flawed. You should have used the paper towel dry first and compared it to a paper tower used with the cleaner.
WRONG WD40 you used for demo. use the WD40 Specialist Fast Drying Contact Cleaner.
What's the active agent in CLR that does this so I can buy other brands?
You got me looking further which was the intended purpose of the experiment. Kudos bro
And the winner is... the paper towel.
i came here hoping to see an asteroid crash into the ocean
Hi Steve,
I know this video is from 2013 and wonder if you have done any more experimentation? I did find this interesting response on the web:
My first personal test of Deoxit went like this. I found the grungiest dark brown penny I had, and put it up on a shelf, with a single drop of D100 over Lincoln's face, and left it to sit. Within a month, the circle had a blue/green scum floating on it. I wiped off the scum, and under that was a nice clean circle of copper (surrounded by the brown). It is like it turns the clock back on copper; releasing the oxidization from the surface, and preventing it from worsening. (END)
Perhaps Deoxit takes more time to do it's thing than you experienced in your test.
I have also hear that brake or carb cleaner does a very good job but I would be concerned using it in electronics since I don't know the pH and how it might affect plastics and other materials.
Have you found other products for contact cleaning that you were impressed with? It seems to me for the money, there may be some good alternatives. I have had some other cleaners in my shop that did very well. Just not sure how they compare to deoxit over time.
Even with deoxit, I have seen no long lasting results and have found some electronics requiring subsequent treatments after a few years.
73, Glenn WA4AOS
No more testing Glenn. I've never had any negative results with WD40 on contacts. I did splurge once and bought that little can of Deoxit and used it on a long rotary switch. It left a lot of oily residue.
haha brilliant execution there
Prety much what i found doing exact test, without overspray. WD40 great cleaner i also found alcohol is just as good or better, without residue. I found it humorous someone else actually did an actual test instead of repeating folklore. These can clean pots, bug pots require special attention to lubrication.
Thank you!
Very scientific 👍
😅
use gloves man!
thanks for the breakdown though.
Oh ...Always use the most expensive and widely advertised brand name. It surely would be better wouldn't it?
He talks too much about the products...just spray and see
What a joke. This proves nothing. I wish Project Farm on youtube will do this test.
Interesting experiments..
73
The most useless unscientific experiment i have ever witnessed, might as well of tried a bit of ketchup and mustard for good measure
Eisenstein replies!
You talk any slower and it will be backwards
LETVIT SIITTTTTT!!!!!!
🤦🏻♂️
garbage test
Worst test I’ve ever seen
Ponderous
Eraser.
Maximum fail lol
A poorly executed experiment.
I was just in an Amazon Business tab all signed into my account. I had this big thought cloud over my head. "I sure miss the smell of De-Oxit. Or was that De-Oxid? Or was it De-Oxid - Gold? Or was it De-Oxit that had the "-Gold"? Wait a minute...I need to google-up a what's whut here!" You vit-chyo came up. I fast-forwarded through the yadda yadda bits n cut straight to the meat n taters bit where CLR proved king. and WD-40 proved best lube. And you SAID IT. SO: Thank you kind sir! I have a case of gallons of WD-40 and two pump sprayer cans WD-40 makes just for refilling, I have 3 dozen hypodermic squirt bottles to put it in, as well. I have a case with four gallons of commercial CLR constipate. I've got two milwaukee sprayers and a
Whew! I hope you are well insured!