Personally I can say in the mid 2000s when new Nissan Armadas came out my boi took his parents new 0 miles armada and in the first week they took it back to Nissan to replace the motor under warranty my boi screwed up his parents new truck 💀
@@885.0ELopezmy sisters bf literally just blew his brand new 2018 wrx in 1300 miles bc he didn't believe in breaking it in, obviously not built or anything but still a shame
@885.0ELopez just saying.. no car comes with 0 miles on it.. they do a pdi on every new car that adds atleast 2-5 miles. So I'm doubting this story is true
@@504chris kmon man obviously u know what I mean ……and actually in 2001 my father went to a factory/ dealer picked up a new at the time 2002 GMC Yukon and he actually had the honors of getting all plastic off wasnt pdi yet and had actual 0 miles ….. truck was wrapped in plastic inside and outside
@@Redman90yeah but even our drag engine we built it 6 years ago. Haven't rebuilt it yet. Never ran it in and it still runs like a charm. Depending on what you build the engine for. Changes how it's meant to be used. Running a drag engine for to long at slow speeds damages it.
Daddies money this dude d9nt know jack his shit breaks first run every time. Old school cars didnt need breaking in modern anything needs breaking in or they will break. Tired of the quantity over quality @kronickingpin
@@kronickingpinyou literally made his point. His family has an endless supplies of cheap parts and labor they can throw at their engines. Normal people who race with a limited capacity, or don't have the budget to continuously rebuild things, or people simply looking for a good running car have absolutely nothing in common with his situation. So you should definitely not be listening to what he's saying if your circumstances aren't equal to what his are
For a blueprinted engine, initial run verify no leaks, timing, no abnormal sounds, pressure looks good. Then it’s doing some rips to seat the rings. Then an oil change shortly after.
Any built engine is blueprint. Machined for tolerances, clearances, and material standards. Unless you go to a junk yard a mix match parts to get a motor running.
@@MrStaybrownthat’s not true. there is a lot of hacks that just throw new bearings and rings into a block and rock. Unless you specifically specify and pay for blueprinting you are probably getting someone’s best guess. I can take a block down to XYZ machine ask for it to be bored out and unless I provide them with the pistons to measure and precisely finish to size it’s all a guess wether it’s loose or tight
@Bacongrease00 every block I've taken to the machine shop was blueprinted. Maybe it's because my uncle worked there. But they double-checked everything. My uncle would then show us at home how to check everything before assembly. But each block we built was blueprint.
@@Damitracismthat’s like hiring a chef to cook for you and then getting mad that he tasted the food. They have to make sure it’s good before they hand it off.
@@kevinmonahan2820 rings are only a very small part of it. There’s a reason that there is a big difference in break in oil and regular oil. Hint: it’s the zinc content.
@@clintonkirkland8980not everything has a flat tappet cam, or needs the zinc content. I bet you think rotella is still good(hint they took the good stuff out 4 years ago because it was clogging up dpf systems. Only high zinc are ams oil, lucas break in oil, or Valvoline vr1. But none of that is even required if you have a roller cam motor. But break in? Full temp one time.....done. I have seen many motors survive many years of abuse with, 0 break in
Ok, for those who don't know, the proper way to break in an engine is: let it warm up, checking for leaks or abnormal noises, have good oil pressure. Give a few hard accerations to set the pistons rings. The first few hundred miles drive with varying rpm. So going from install to dyno is probably the best thing to do. The worst is not loading the engine (driving it easy) during the break in.
Huge misconception that you need to take it easy for 20 miles or something but for a break in just run it through 2 heat cool cycles and change the oil and your done.
It is not preference. You absolutely need a break in period. Every single manufacturer has a break in period in their manuals. Many well paid engineers have already done the work to give you the best information so your car can run for many miles. The guy in the clip doesn’t need break in process because he is dealing with race cars and he is going to rebuild the engine in a couple of weeks anyways. For road going cars you should absolutely follow the break instructions.
Contrary to popular belief this guy is on the right track. Maybe don't hit the 2 step off the rip lol, however cylinder pressure is needed to properly seat the rings, and they get seated (or not) within first 20-30ish miles quite possibly even less. Meaning, if you don't induce load onto the engine in this critical window you can and will be left with rings not properly seated, which, ironically is now creating less power (can't hold maximum possible cylinder pressure vs fully seated rings) and more than likely excessive oil burning. Neither of which do you want to see in a daily driver or a race car. Very glad when I experienced a engine rebuild situation I listened to my tuner and not the dealer. (No tuning was involved on the spun rod bearing motor that was rebuilt it was completely stock and I decided to upgrade turbo and tune it after rebuild just a big heads up lmao) He had an in depth step by step process for gradual loading, it wasn't just floor it on first open stretch with new build. Along the lines of accelerate part throttle to 3k and let it decelerate all the way to idle in gear, 4k, 5k, 6k, and 3/4 throttle, then eventually full throttle to redline and decel back through. This engine hasn't burned a drop of oil, stock engine was certainly broken in by dealer specs and although I got as second owner at less than 10k miles (meaning I don't think some hoodlums messed it up before I owned it, and previous owner was a doctor) it would burn at least a quart before halfway point to oil change interval... There's a certain threshold of "acceptable" oil burn I found out after questioning the frequency of it, and barely within spec.. Years later I break in my freshly rebuilt engine with an upgraded turbo, follow steps provided by my tuner and not the dealer, and legit have been completely sold through and through. But no, not recommended to 2 step it first start lol. A quick and moderately increasing load followed with full decelerations in gear seems to be the way to go while erroring on the side of caution as you would want to do with a new engine or rebuild. Sorry had time on my hands and I was bored
As a mechanical engineering student I think it’s good to break in the motor. Work hardening is a type of strengthening process in material science easing your motor into extreme conditions is better because you give all components and even contact areas a chance to work hardening fully before pushing the engine to its limits. Less chances of failures and also correct treatment of the possible impurities within components to avoid plane dislocation Aka breaking
I guess its for a different case scenario but when i worked for deere, engines must run 50hrs on a break in oil, oil change then it would be fine. Plus when doing oil samples, you can see that over time the metal content reduces over time
Because you don’t have to worry about the engine being reliable for 100k + miles. Two totally different situations with a drag only engine and a street engine. Anything that is meant to be relied upon for daily use needs break in. Anything for drag strip use only or main use do what you want. I broke in the 1100 hp LS I had in my trans am and had 1200 runs and 180k miles on it when I sold it. Could it be the break in ? Maybe, could I be lucky? Maybe also
That’s why they say break it in on how it’s gonna be used don’t break in a daily like a damn top fuel car and u don’t want to break in a top fuel car like a daily if u do that they hold just fine
I don't make anywhere near that power, but when I dropped my 1st turbo setup in my car.....it got sent the moment oil pressure and temp. was established! I daily'd and raced that car for 4 years with zero issues before I parked it to go bigger turbo.....it will get sent again!
Every motor I’ve had done I’ve taken it easy for the first 1000kms then change the oil and good to go from there, just to make sure all the assembly lube is cleared out and bearings aren’t rubbing
my opinion is : i also built engines and do engine work on my own stuff , here's an example that i will never forget from a middle east friend that has like 25 supercars he explained that when you wake up in the morning you dont stand up and start running a marathon you dont start wake up and start lifting like 250 pounds of weights you dont wake up and eat breakfast like there's no tomorrow you wake up and take it slowly and ramp up . the same applies to a car you dont turn on the car when is basically just assembled and redline it lmfao thats like the number one in the handbook , those o rings need to set up properly in the first 500 miles from then an on its all good .
I remember years ago there was a study with motorcycle engines and break in procedures. They built several identical engines and broke them in with different procedures. The engine with the best ring seal, best compression and least blow by was the one that they full throttled from the beginning. The lesson? You needs to give full power to fully expand and wear in the rings while there is still a hone on the bore.
it is weird bc factories recommend break in periods and even have been proven to fail if you don’t adhere, but just like what the guy in the video is saying, drag cars don’t ever break in their motors
@gooklogander7 do some research before you open your mouth cuz you know nothing at all lmao. There's a reason we bolt on deck plates before we bore a block. It makes true cylinders not eggs bore a block w/o deck plate and bolt the head on and measure it from the bottom side and watch your Guage fluctuate all over the place. Metal compresses under pressure especially aluminum.
'break in' period is to catch all the sloppy problems and ease into the setup. Like on the assembly line mass produced cars. U dont have to ease in if you build it solid urself.
There is only 2 things that “breaks in”. The cam, which you are actually mating the lifters and the seating of the pistons rings which is done within the first few minutes. Nothing else should have wear.
idk man, my engine builder specifically said to ensure there is oil pressure on first startup and follow the break in procedure to a T. personally i’m gonna do what he says.
Damn right. These guys always know what they’re talking about. You’re going to spin everything by hand before it goes under power anyway and like he said, if it’s built right there won’t be any problems so you can immediately start making power. A stock engine from an assembly line I usually run a heat cycle first just because I don’t have 100% confidence in the assembly so I’ll bring it up to temp once and then go flog on it, but if I built the thing it goes from the engine stand to the dyno and then to the tarmac.
As an owner of both fords & chevs; there is not one blue oval gas v8s I own that made it near 250k without a costly rebuild. Every LS and pre 2000s I own are still in operation.
I had a 2009 mustang GT/ CS with 302,000 miles on original motor and internals and I did the occasional hoon in that thing. Had it until it had fords electrical grimlins which ended up shorting the ECU.
I was told like this from some very good engine builders. Run it in like your gona run it. I have a hard time doing it. But. They build a top fuel car and warm it up once and put it to the floor. I’ve never had any issues doing it like that ever
It depends what level they're at. Of course some people have money to burn and some actually make money fixing motors Don't do it though it's just people with too much money giving very poor advice for the masses.
They pretty much do. Because they hit something almost every pass. But some teams with less money will try to get three passes out of an engine and just rebuild the clutch every pass. That’s why we see a lot of those huge exsplotions. (Jesus my spelling is terrible.)
@@jamesgravel7755 if you race anything with a combustion engine you have to do mechanical work often if I honestly pinned my dirt bike and just abused it, I dont think it would last 15 hours from fully serviced. until I need to rebuild or fix something and any engine optimized for racing seems like it is constantly rebuilt one of the reasons bugati, ferrari etc cars are more desirable is theyre much less likely to fail, while at the same time being built for racing a civic with a laptop might beat one but it will be at the shop 2 days later while with ferrari etc, their engines usually work and when you take them to the shop they usually charge you 5000 for a loose bolt its not for a rebuild.
Break in is to form wear patterns and find problems before sending it. A racecar gets rebuilt enough that you don't really worry about having to pull the motor again..
The point of a break in is to let the gaskets conform to the surface of the metal before excess force is applied. That and the metal will expand and contract with heat before eventually settling to a mold after being cured with like 500 ish miles of heating up and cooling down. It’s not about building it right it’s just physics
Eaaaa I wouldn't trust that cause what's gonna happen is toward the end of your warranty period is usually when you start to see signs of damage forming snd you might have other things getting close to their last legs the dealerships main goal is to spend as little money as possible so they gonna give you the run around say there's nothing wrong with it say they can't fix it say it voids warranty whatever they can do just to stall you out till that warranty period runs out then they gonna tell you oh the cars fucked but you can trade it in at a fraction of what the cars worth and we can sell you a brand new one
You may wanna talk to a machinist about your theory here. Metal settles after being heat soaked and cold. Amazing engineers and machinist came up with a break in programs and oh I drive I know better
Well, u kinda need do do some pulls with high cylinder pressure and high vacuum right after. Maybe 10-30 times right after having the fluids up to temp for the first time. (And ideally after those pulls directly do an oil change)
Agreed. Bought a brand new z650 and every single time I took her out I sent it at least once on the freeway. Of course warm it up but after that, send that shit!
Didn’t get an owners manual when my R7 was delivered and I ripped it from the get go. Now for the past 8000 miles I’m quite sure I’ve been hearing the pistons slap around :/ break in your motor proper with the proper oil changes
The only real “break in” is making sure you use a conventional oil so you can break the rings in good the first month of driving. That’s really about it. Like he said if the bottom man has been blueprinted and balance like it should’ve been you could just send it but longevity, wise and performance wise I recommend you breaking in the rings a little bit slower. I’ve yet to have a motor burn oil on me.
Yea I drive my builds to town and home a.few times change oil then throw the nitrous to it I really only do it to look for leaks make sure everything works and still tight
I recently bought a 2010 genesis sedan with the V6 and was looking at aftermarket parts, nope nothing, not even an intake, but it doesn’t make sense because the coupe has so much support for it, i think it also shares the same engine as the sedan
Unless there is a flat tappet cam, it doesn't need to be broken in. If it's got good oil pressure and the temp gauge is moving, barring any bottom end or valve noise its getting sent.
When I do a new or reman engines in customer cars I rip them after they fully warm up and get driven 10-20 miles. Modern engines have such tight tolerances to begin with that it doesn't make to much of a difference these days. I wouldn't recommend ripping it on first startup and cold. After it's warm....SEND IT
Absolutely. You want those rings seated in before you wear down that cross hatch or you’re liable to burn a little oil otherwise. I do the same. Get it up to temp, check pressures, check for leaks, then go give her a good rip. Some hard pulls with some engine braking over and over.
Breaking in a motor is for warranty purposes they say do this or that for X miles so that if X,Y or Z goes wrong it’s cheaper to fix as more is salvageable. the mistake/failure is on them so they want the cheapest possible way to rectify the issue and no break in could mean 2parts break rather than 1
General aviation aircraft engines during break in and supposed to be flown low and fast with high rpm’s. I flew mine from Cali to Arizona like that and then like that continuously until it stopped using oil around 20 hours and then I switched oils and flew it regularly and never had an issue for hundred and hundreds of hours.
@@Nucleartwinkie56 depends on your speed, if it’s average is 65 mph in the car that’s 1538.46 hours. Could you imagine if they told truckers they had to log 100,000 miles in a vehicle before they could become a trucker? There would be a lot less. Also truckers can keep a CDL with diabetes now so there’s that lol
If its built properly send it, the break in process is for street engines that you want to last for 100,000 plus miles, its about cutting all the sharp edges and polishing metal contacts, it will help, do a few warm up and cool down procedures, stay strong guys
You dont have to break in a motor if you understand the engineering. That break in shit was for back in the day when they were machining blocks with a drill and a ball hone.
Break it in how you plan on driving it. The breaking in period is just making sure you create the necessary pressure to seat the rings and to change your oil for the metal bits.
Pay close attention these guys who always say break-in is not necessary. They are also the same guys constantly talking about rebuilding engines. When you're rebuilding your engine every few months of course you don't care about breaking anything in because you're not going for longevity.
Dad was on a race team in the '70s as a transmission guy. They raced a 68 AMX and dad always said with a new motor, off the trailer, they ran the first pass half throttle just making sure everything held together and the trans shifted. The second pass was balls to the wall.
Use your break in period for data logging and fine tuning. Then once you hit 1000 miles do some fine adjustments if needed. Real world has alot of variables and could be completely different compared to dyno tuning. Thats why you data log.
Parts heat up and expand, you break in a motor so all function can activate normal and if their IS something wrong that specific thing break instead of shooting a piston at 7000rpm
By time it fires up gets to temp and u look things over it’s pretty much broken in and if there’s a problem it’s not due to break in. I’ve done it this way for 45 years no issues.
Well idk much about tuning but I do know that most tuners know the engine parameters they are working on…If I can handle 15 pounds vs 35 lbs of boost etc.
If its built right. Send it. I rebuilt my trans and got asked "you gonna take it easy for a bit right?" To which i replied :"if it shifts fine the first time itll shift fine when i wot shift it" and it does.
The fact that he says that for customers he takes is slower is a sign of what he really thinks. Always take it slow because if something does fail, it is not as catastrophic and can probably be repairs more easily than if something breaks when the engine is spinning at higher RPM at full boost.
couple hundred miles not going crazy is all you need, after that, you WANT to beat on it. It helps all the new components and gaskets seal and strengthen.
Smart, on the 19 ish 5.0 f150s if you didn’t run them hard from new they wouldn’t set the rings right and had oil consumption problems, gotta run them how they’re engineered to run
Nah break in the motor for whatever its built for. Dont drive a drag car slow for 500 miles then send it. Drive a drag car like a drag car.
Oh yessss
Personally I can say in the mid 2000s when new Nissan Armadas came out my boi took his parents new 0 miles armada and in the first week they took it back to Nissan to replace the motor under warranty my boi screwed up his parents new truck 💀
@@885.0ELopezmy sisters bf literally just blew his brand new 2018 wrx in 1300 miles bc he didn't believe in breaking it in, obviously not built or anything but still a shame
@885.0ELopez just saying.. no car comes with 0 miles on it.. they do a pdi on every new car that adds atleast 2-5 miles. So I'm doubting this story is true
@@504chris kmon man obviously u know what I mean ……and actually in 2001 my father went to a factory/ dealer picked up a new at the time 2002 GMC Yukon and he actually had the honors of getting all plastic off wasnt pdi yet and had actual 0 miles ….. truck was wrapped in plastic inside and outside
You don’t need to break it in if you plan on rebuilding it in two weeks.
that's what he didn't mention.
Exactly 😂
Exactly! The "Break in" on a dragster is full send and rebuild again 😂😂 easy to talk about when money isn't an issue
No when your building a car for racing you don't need to break it in. Driving an engine like that slow is bad for it
@@Redman90yeah but even our drag engine we built it 6 years ago. Haven't rebuilt it yet. Never ran it in and it still runs like a charm. Depending on what you build the engine for. Changes how it's meant to be used. Running a drag engine for to long at slow speeds damages it.
Instructions unclear 3 pistons are entering orbit as we speak
Are they tracking my address? I'm worried. 😂
😂😂😂
@YeakZa idk I lost blue tooth connection 🤔
@@mildxdrifter243 whatever you do, don't open my MATH Folder. 😂🙏😂
"Instructions unclear...." -🤓
I think he’s speaking for the people with the money to rebuild in a couple weeks if need be🤣 not us in the normal people tax brackets lmao
His family owns a performance shop if anyone knows what there talking about is the person who builds the cars
@@kronickingpinso not him. Got it
Daddies money this dude d9nt know jack his shit breaks first run every time. Old school cars didnt need breaking in modern anything needs breaking in or they will break. Tired of the quantity over quality @kronickingpin
@@kronickingpinyou literally made his point. His family has an endless supplies of cheap parts and labor they can throw at their engines. Normal people who race with a limited capacity, or don't have the budget to continuously rebuild things, or people simply looking for a good running car have absolutely nothing in common with his situation. So you should definitely not be listening to what he's saying if your circumstances aren't equal to what his are
@@DaleDenton-ov5pg💯
For a blueprinted engine, initial run verify no leaks, timing, no abnormal sounds, pressure looks good. Then it’s doing some rips to seat the rings. Then an oil change shortly after.
Any built engine is blueprint.
Machined for tolerances, clearances, and material standards.
Unless you go to a junk yard a mix match parts to get a motor running.
Yes
@@MrStaybrownthat’s not true. there is a lot of hacks that just throw new bearings and rings into a block and rock. Unless you specifically specify and pay for blueprinting you are probably getting someone’s best guess. I can take a block down to XYZ machine ask for it to be bored out and unless I provide them with the pistons to measure and precisely finish to size it’s all a guess wether it’s loose or tight
@Bacongrease00 every block I've taken to the machine shop was blueprinted. Maybe it's because my uncle worked there. But they double-checked everything. My uncle would then show us at home how to check everything before assembly. But each block we built was blueprint.
If he was so confident in that statement he wouldn’t be taking it easy on customer cars.
It’s more for the customers state of mind personally that would piss me of if he was giving my car hell and not me
I expect it’s more about the courtesy of not driving a customer car like that in the first place, don’t you?
Idk about you man but if I see any shop put my car on the 2 step off a fresh motor install, I got some questions.
@@Damitracismthat’s like hiring a chef to cook for you and then getting mad that he tasted the food. They have to make sure it’s good before they hand it off.
@@Michael-pi8psYeah they taste the food they don't take a giant bite out of everything and then give you the plate.
It’s absolutely amazing the amount of people in this comment section that have no idea why you need to break in an engine.
Agreed, not even worth trying to correct because there are so many ☠️
You can break the rings in in a 15 minute drive
@@kevinmonahan2820 rings are only a very small part of it. There’s a reason that there is a big difference in break in oil and regular oil. Hint: it’s the zinc content.
@@clintonkirkland8980not everything has a flat tappet cam, or needs the zinc content.
I bet you think rotella is still good(hint they took the good stuff out 4 years ago because it was clogging up dpf systems.
Only high zinc are ams oil, lucas break in oil, or Valvoline vr1.
But none of that is even required if you have a roller cam motor.
But break in? Full temp one time.....done.
I have seen many motors survive many years of abuse with, 0 break in
@@ryurc3033I’m glad someone in this comment section knows what they’re talking about
Ok, for those who don't know, the proper way to break in an engine is:
let it warm up, checking for leaks or abnormal noises, have good oil pressure.
Give a few hard accerations to set the pistons rings.
The first few hundred miles drive with varying rpm.
So going from install to dyno is probably the best thing to do.
The worst is not loading the engine (driving it easy) during the break in.
I take it easy 500 miles, then I introduce boost for the next 500 and occasional WOT. Change oil again at 1000 and then 3k from then on.
No
Huge misconception that you need to take it easy for 20 miles or something but for a break in just run it through 2 heat cool cycles and change the oil and your done.
"My dad builds it, so I just let it rip. You know since he pays for everything" 😂
Hmm yea it's kinda hard to comment on this cause it really is preference but personally I'd break mine in mainly for the timing components.
100% can break the timing components I would know 😢
It is not preference. You absolutely need a break in period. Every single manufacturer has a break in period in their manuals. Many well paid engineers have already done the work to give you the best information so your car can run for many miles. The guy in the clip doesn’t need break in process because he is dealing with race cars and he is going to rebuild the engine in a couple of weeks anyways. For road going cars you should absolutely follow the break instructions.
As long as you have the right rings chromoly..etc your fine but steel rings I would break it in instead of it breaking out 😅
How can you be so wrong? Read the manual or ask someone with the knowledge about the engine.
What exactly has to be broken in on your timing components
Contrary to popular belief this guy is on the right track. Maybe don't hit the 2 step off the rip lol, however cylinder pressure is needed to properly seat the rings, and they get seated (or not) within first 20-30ish miles quite possibly even less. Meaning, if you don't induce load onto the engine in this critical window you can and will be left with rings not properly seated, which, ironically is now creating less power (can't hold maximum possible cylinder pressure vs fully seated rings) and more than likely excessive oil burning. Neither of which do you want to see in a daily driver or a race car.
Very glad when I experienced a engine rebuild situation I listened to my tuner and not the dealer. (No tuning was involved on the spun rod bearing motor that was rebuilt it was completely stock and I decided to upgrade turbo and tune it after rebuild just a big heads up lmao)
He had an in depth step by step process for gradual loading, it wasn't just floor it on first open stretch with new build. Along the lines of accelerate part throttle to 3k and let it decelerate all the way to idle in gear, 4k, 5k, 6k, and 3/4 throttle, then eventually full throttle to redline and decel back through. This engine hasn't burned a drop of oil, stock engine was certainly broken in by dealer specs and although I got as second owner at less than 10k miles (meaning I don't think some hoodlums messed it up before I owned it, and previous owner was a doctor) it would burn at least a quart before halfway point to oil change interval... There's a certain threshold of "acceptable" oil burn I found out after questioning the frequency of it, and barely within spec.. Years later I break in my freshly rebuilt engine with an upgraded turbo, follow steps provided by my tuner and not the dealer, and legit have been completely sold through and through. But no, not recommended to 2 step it first start lol. A quick and moderately increasing load followed with full decelerations in gear seems to be the way to go while erroring on the side of caution as you would want to do with a new engine or rebuild.
Sorry had time on my hands and I was bored
Thanks for the info, bro
As a mechanical engineering student I think it’s good to break in the motor. Work hardening is a type of strengthening process in material science easing your motor into extreme conditions is better because you give all components and even contact areas a chance to work hardening fully before pushing the engine to its limits. Less chances of failures and also correct treatment of the possible impurities within components to avoid plane dislocation Aka breaking
I guess its for a different case scenario but when i worked for deere, engines must run 50hrs on a break in oil, oil change then it would be fine. Plus when doing oil samples, you can see that over time the metal content reduces over time
Because you don’t have to worry about the engine being reliable for 100k + miles. Two totally different situations with a drag only engine and a street engine. Anything that is meant to be relied upon for daily use needs break in. Anything for drag strip use only or main use do what you want. I broke in the 1100 hp LS I had in my trans am and had 1200 runs and 180k miles on it when I sold it. Could it be the break in ? Maybe, could I be lucky? Maybe also
That’s why they say break it in on how it’s gonna be used don’t break in a daily like a damn top fuel car and u don’t want to break in a top fuel car like a daily if u do that they hold just fine
Dude in the video 100% a tool
get this our machining processes are so good we don’t need to break in the motor everything is where it needs to be lol
All depends on how tight of a motor you put together. The tighter the tolerances the more break in is needed
The first person on this platform, who is not completely stupid.
I don't make anywhere near that power, but when I dropped my 1st turbo setup in my car.....it got sent the moment oil pressure and temp. was established! I daily'd and raced that car for 4 years with zero issues before I parked it to go bigger turbo.....it will get sent again!
Right out the gate do what you intended to do! Just make sure you got that oil flow & temps first lol
did you know that the situation where your bearings are at its most fatal point is actually with warm engine/oil?
Every motor I’ve had done I’ve taken it easy for the first 1000kms then change the oil and good to go from there, just to make sure all the assembly lube is cleared out and bearings aren’t rubbing
my opinion is : i also built engines and do engine work on my own stuff , here's an example that i will never forget from a middle east friend that has like 25 supercars he explained that when you wake up in the morning you dont stand up and start running a marathon you dont start wake up and start lifting like 250 pounds of weights you dont wake up and eat breakfast like there's no tomorrow you wake up and take it slowly and ramp up . the same applies to a car you dont turn on the car when is basically just assembled and redline it lmfao thats like the number one in the handbook , those o rings need to set up properly in the first 500 miles from then an on its all good .
I remember years ago there was a study with motorcycle engines and break in procedures. They built several identical engines and broke them in with different procedures. The engine with the best ring seal, best compression and least blow by was the one that they full throttled from the beginning. The lesson? You needs to give full power to fully expand and wear in the rings while there is still a hone on the bore.
That’s true look a Cletus built engines and rips them right from the start, straight to the dyno then the quarter mile of its built right no break in
Check the magnetic drain plug on a low mile engine to see why break in is necessary.
This the same guy that says he pays 25 grand for a TH400
And with that, dozens, possibly hundreds of people were convinced that they no longer have to worry about breaking in a motor.
Not breaking in an engine is like not stretching before working out.
it is weird bc factories recommend break in periods and even have been proven to fail if you don’t adhere, but just like what the guy in the video is saying, drag cars don’t ever break in their motors
Maybe that’s why they break😂
@banditpsycho3573 they're gonna break I mean there's no way you can't have problems when you push an engine to its limits like that
Cuz most factory engines are junk from the factory w egg shaped cylinders and shitty crosshatching the the rings have to knock down.
@@blackegz61the fuck are you talking about😂
@gooklogander7 do some research before you open your mouth cuz you know nothing at all lmao. There's a reason we bolt on deck plates before we bore a block. It makes true cylinders not eggs bore a block w/o deck plate and bolt the head on and measure it from the bottom side and watch your Guage fluctuate all over the place. Metal compresses under pressure especially aluminum.
'break in' period is to catch all the sloppy problems and ease into the setup. Like on the assembly line mass produced cars. U dont have to ease in if you build it solid urself.
There is only 2 things that “breaks in”. The cam, which you are actually mating the lifters and the seating of the pistons rings which is done within the first few minutes. Nothing else should have wear.
If you break it in like a baby, then you are going to have a baby
True
idk man, my engine builder specifically said to ensure there is oil pressure on first startup and follow the break in procedure to a T. personally i’m gonna do what he says.
Damn right. These guys always know what they’re talking about. You’re going to spin everything by hand before it goes under power anyway and like he said, if it’s built right there won’t be any problems so you can immediately start making power. A stock engine from an assembly line I usually run a heat cycle first just because I don’t have 100% confidence in the assembly so I’ll bring it up to temp once and then go flog on it, but if I built the thing it goes from the engine stand to the dyno and then to the tarmac.
I can’t wait for him to write a manual of how to break in an engine quicker by pouring mica into the intake ports.
As an owner of both fords & chevs; there is not one blue oval gas v8s I own that made it near 250k without a costly rebuild. Every LS and pre 2000s I own are still in operation.
I had a 2009 mustang GT/ CS with 302,000 miles on original motor and internals and I did the occasional hoon in that thing. Had it until it had fords electrical grimlins which ended up shorting the ECU.
Where do I listen to car podcasts like this lmao
I was told like this from some very good engine builders. Run it in like your gona run it. I have a hard time doing it. But. They build a top fuel car and warm it up once and put it to the floor. I’ve never had any issues doing it like that ever
I thought they rebuild top fuel cars after every race?
It depends what level they're at. Of course some people have money to burn and some actually make money fixing motors
Don't do it though it's just people with too much money giving very poor advice for the masses.
They pretty much do. Because they hit something almost every pass. But some teams with less money will try to get three passes out of an engine and just rebuild the clutch every pass. That’s why we see a lot of those huge exsplotions. (Jesus my spelling is terrible.)
They also pull those same top fuel motors apart after every race, so…
@@jamesgravel7755 if you race anything with a combustion engine you have to do mechanical work often if I honestly pinned my dirt bike and just abused it, I dont think it would last 15 hours from fully serviced. until I need to rebuild or fix something
and any engine optimized for racing seems like it is constantly rebuilt
one of the reasons bugati, ferrari etc cars are more desirable
is theyre much less likely to fail, while at the same time being built for racing
a civic with a laptop might beat one
but it will be at the shop 2 days later
while with ferrari etc, their engines usually work and when you take them to the shop they usually charge you 5000 for a loose bolt its not for a rebuild.
Break in is to form wear patterns and find problems before sending it.
A racecar gets rebuilt enough that you don't really worry about having to pull the motor again..
Bingo
The point of a break in is to let the gaskets conform to the surface of the metal before excess force is applied. That and the metal will expand and contract with heat before eventually settling to a mold after being cured with like 500 ish miles of heating up and cooling down. It’s not about building it right it’s just physics
Anyone with a rental or warranty should be sending it 100% of the time!😂
Eaaaa I wouldn't trust that cause what's gonna happen is toward the end of your warranty period is usually when you start to see signs of damage forming snd you might have other things getting close to their last legs the dealerships main goal is to spend as little money as possible so they gonna give you the run around say there's nothing wrong with it say they can't fix it say it voids warranty whatever they can do just to stall you out till that warranty period runs out then they gonna tell you oh the cars fucked but you can trade it in at a fraction of what the cars worth and we can sell you a brand new one
You may wanna talk to a machinist about your theory here. Metal settles after being heat soaked and cold. Amazing engineers and machinist came up with a break in programs and oh I drive I know better
I was looking for this😂😂😂 entire comment section filled with know it all DUMMIES
My dad always said, break it in how you're going to drive it.
Well, u kinda need do do some pulls with high cylinder pressure and high vacuum right after. Maybe 10-30 times right after having the fluids up to temp for the first time.
(And ideally after those pulls directly do an oil change)
Tuners must be stressed bunch of straight jacket,hats off
Agreed. Bought a brand new z650 and every single time I took her out I sent it at least once on the freeway. Of course warm it up but after that, send that shit!
Race motors, go full send. Street motors, give varying loads and RPM, increasing both as miles increase
Motors always self clearance to an extent, it almost always makes sense to do a breaking period or oil change.
Didn’t get an owners manual when my R7 was delivered and I ripped it from the get go. Now for the past 8000 miles I’m quite sure I’ve been hearing the pistons slap around :/ break in your motor proper with the proper oil changes
The only real “break in” is making sure you use a conventional oil so you can break the rings in good the first month of driving. That’s really about it. Like he said if the bottom man has been blueprinted and balance like it should’ve been you could just send it but longevity, wise and performance wise I recommend you breaking in the rings a little bit slower. I’ve yet to have a motor burn oil on me.
Yea I drive my builds to town and home a.few times change oil then throw the nitrous to it I really only do it to look for leaks make sure everything works and still tight
It really depends you can typically buy motors new that have been ran in but yeah if your drag racing its obv diff
I recently bought a 2010 genesis sedan with the V6 and was looking at aftermarket parts, nope nothing, not even an intake, but it doesn’t make sense because the coupe has so much support for it, i think it also shares the same engine as the sedan
Unless there is a flat tappet cam, it doesn't need to be broken in. If it's got good oil pressure and the temp gauge is moving, barring any bottom end or valve noise its getting sent.
When I do a new or reman engines in customer cars I rip them after they fully warm up and get driven 10-20 miles. Modern engines have such tight tolerances to begin with that it doesn't make to much of a difference these days.
I wouldn't recommend ripping it on first startup and cold. After it's warm....SEND IT
Absolutely. You want those rings seated in before you wear down that cross hatch or you’re liable to burn a little oil otherwise. I do the same. Get it up to temp, check pressures, check for leaks, then go give her a good rip. Some hard pulls with some engine braking over and over.
Break ins are for stock motors and old school big block builds
Break it in, like youre gonna drive it
What all do you work with at your shop? I got something that's been on the back burner for a while.
In some builds you have to technically send it to properly seat the rings depending on application i believe
Breaking in a motor is for warranty purposes they say do this or that for X miles so that if X,Y or Z goes wrong it’s cheaper to fix as more is salvageable. the mistake/failure is on them so they want the cheapest possible way to rectify the issue and no break in could mean 2parts break rather than 1
General aviation aircraft engines during break in and supposed to be flown low and fast with high rpm’s. I flew mine from Cali to Arizona like that and then like that continuously until it stopped using oil around 20 hours and then I switched oils and flew it regularly and never had an issue for hundred and hundreds of hours.
How many hours in a plane is equivalent to 100k miles in a car?
@@Nucleartwinkie56 depends on your speed, if it’s average is 65 mph in the car that’s 1538.46 hours. Could you imagine if they told truckers they had to log 100,000 miles in a vehicle before they could become a trucker? There would be a lot less. Also truckers can keep a CDL with diabetes now so there’s that lol
In the truck industrie we break in engine by avoiding idle like the pest and working the engine and never letting float
Jawohl
If its built properly send it, the break in process is for street engines that you want to last for 100,000 plus miles, its about cutting all the sharp edges and polishing metal contacts, it will help, do a few warm up and cool down procedures, stay strong guys
MUSTANG WAS NEVER DESIGNED TO HAVE BIG POWER...
You must now know what kind of power stick block 5.0s can make. Coming from an LS guy with a C6
“Don’t take it easy” if everything is correct the engine will respond accordingly
Dude knows what he built first hand. Send it! Other brand manufacturers yea totally don’t do that lol
Always send it the first time that way know if it was built right 😂
If it was built wrong you think any amount of slow would fix that?
Two things are going to happen, it's going to hold up, or blow the fuck up
You dont have to break in a motor if you understand the engineering. That break in shit was for back in the day when they were machining blocks with a drill and a ball hone.
must be so cool to be able to build these things, and avoid the 30k labor cost
30k?? You can get another used S550 for 30k.
What physical changes happen to the motor during a break in that makes it worth it?
“ride or drive it like it’s stolen” is the best way to
Break it in ????
Yep BREAK IT IN LIKE YOU GONNA DRIVE IT LATER!!!.
Send it!!!
The only thing to worry about is seating the rings really. They seat fast under power and heat.
Break it in how you plan on driving it. The breaking in period is just making sure you create the necessary pressure to seat the rings and to change your oil for the metal bits.
My method was always break in oil, a long warm up, a 10 min drive then fucking send it, change the oil after a day or so
That's a bad ass builder right there! 👍
Pay close attention these guys who always say break-in is not necessary. They are also the same guys constantly talking about rebuilding engines. When you're rebuilding your engine every few months of course you don't care about breaking anything in because you're not going for longevity.
Dad was on a race team in the '70s as a transmission guy. They raced a 68 AMX and dad always said with a new motor, off the trailer, they ran the first pass half throttle just making sure everything held together and the trans shifted. The second pass was balls to the wall.
It’s actually bitter shame game pass removed San Andreas remake. That company royally dropped the ball with that one.
Use your break in period for data logging and fine tuning. Then once you hit 1000 miles do some fine adjustments if needed. Real world has alot of variables and could be completely different compared to dyno tuning. Thats why you data log.
well, thank you for the laugh. that was a good way to start the day. reminds me of how kids talked in autos class back in highschool. good times..
J.B Mauneys little brother holy shit
Parts heat up and expand, you break in a motor so all function can activate normal and if their IS something wrong that specific thing break instead of shooting a piston at 7000rpm
If you don’t expect your engine to last much more than 50,000 miles then yeah
More like 5000 miles
I prefer the ls style of just banging on the limiter cold😂
Very few people know how to properly break in an engine.
The only break in you need happens on first start up warming up the oil
My engine builder told me send it too.
Engine still perfect after 9 years.
Break it in for however you plan on using it, never had problems after checking fluid. Send it
By time it fires up gets to temp and u look things over it’s pretty much broken in and if there’s a problem it’s not due to break in. I’ve done it this way for 45 years no issues.
Well idk much about tuning but I do know that most tuners know the engine parameters they are working on…If I can handle 15 pounds vs 35 lbs of boost etc.
If its built right. Send it.
I rebuilt my trans and got asked "you gonna take it easy for a bit right?"
To which i replied :"if it shifts fine the first time itll shift fine when i wot shift it" and it does.
That’s how I’ve gone about rebuilding motocross bikes, run them how you intend to run it just for a short period and then have a cool down/repeat
Every time I put in a new clutch I’m like going to brake it in. By the 3rd light I’m banging gears chirping them tires.
“IM FEININ FOR MOOORRRREEEEEE”
Never take advice from someone calling an engine a motor
The fact that he says that for customers he takes is slower is a sign of what he really thinks.
Always take it slow because if something does fail, it is not as catastrophic and can probably be repairs more easily than if something breaks when the engine is spinning at higher RPM at full boost.
A wide range of rpm is the best way. For example going on a curvy road with occasional straights
Break it in like you are going to drive it.
couple hundred miles not going crazy is all you need, after that, you WANT to beat on it. It helps all the new components and gaskets seal and strengthen.
Ocho is a financial advisor that just happens to be good at football
Smart, on the 19 ish 5.0 f150s if you didn’t run them hard from new they wouldn’t set the rings right and had oil consumption problems, gotta run them how they’re engineered to run