I have a 1991 1-ton Chevy crew cab square body with 10" lift. 38" tires, with all the same steering modifications. I installed a steering shaft from a 2001 to 2006 3/4-ton Chevy express van, in order to eliminate the stock rag joint steering shaft.
I’ve owned 3 GMC shorties , all 4x4 , and the two that were lifted with 35” tires had sub par steering . I never thought of the push pull design being the issue , and seen your modifications on another video recently. I had heard of welding a plate to the frame , as you certainly don’t want any flex where your steering box is located . Btw nice looking truck you have there . I’ll regret selling my 84 for the rest of my life .
Yes sir it certainly helps a lot. The steering brace is a great addition as well. It will prevent further cracking. Thank you sir. This was my first truck. I’ll never sell it. You had the better ones though. The GMC’s are the best 😎 don’t see them as often as the Chevys
Nice truck I haven’t lifted my 76 yet but was wondering how I as going to take care of the steering issues once I did. Had a friend in high school that had a nice 78 on a 6 inch lift and he endlessly complained about steering
Thank you. I have it torn apart and need to put it back together. While it may be more expensive upfront the crossover is great. I’d recommend it to anyone. Makes it a completely better driving truck
If you want to get rid of that old rubber rag joint, I used a borgeson 935 steering shaft with Ujoints you will have to shorten the shaft but it works great and gets rid of the steering delay/slop.
@Noah63Nova sounds good. Absolutely love your truck. Mine is also a factory blue two tone, so I'm deciding whether to go back to blue and white or blue and silver
@Noah63Nova hope so! Keep making videos, even if they're just walk arounds. I keep coming back to watch them haha Is it still being worked on or is it back to running and driving again?
I’m glad you like the videos! It’s currently just sitting. I haven’t had time to work on it. I regret taking it apart because it drove great. But hopefully this will be the last time
So you still run the 10 bolt front and rear? With as much power as you’re putting down I think I’ll be safe building what I have if the that’s the case.
Man I’ll tell you crossover steering was one of the best things I ever did to the truck. The factory design isn’t great in general then when lifted it just makes it worse. There are plenty of places out there that sell kits to do the crossover. It can get a little expensive buying brand name kits. I ended up just piecing mine together and saved a bit
@@noah63nova14 ok I’ve bought mine October 2022 and am learning from scratch. ORD is the only place I’ve looked and to get the parts to do it it’ll cost me $1248
I bought my kit for a little under $300. Then purchases a c series steering box from summit. I think it was around $200. But I had to weld the ends and cut the DOM but it wasn’t hard
I think it's just the K and V body squares that have issues with the frame cracking, and more so with ones that are raised and/or running larger tires. That being said I still want to check my 86 K2500 for frame cracks even though it's still running factory size tires. Same for my 85 C30... if I can even manage to see the frame around the steering box with the 454 in the way.
I’ve seen 2wd or c series with cracks. I think the big wheels and tires just expedite the process. I’d definitely check it out, doesn’t take but a few seconds for the reassurance. Gotta love a big block!
@@noah63nova14 Well then do they offer the reinforcement plate for 1 ton 2wd trucks? I've seen them in the LMC catalog, but I don't think they are for the C30/C3500 trucks.
Kind of have a few options to my understanding. You can weld a reinforcement plate on which should fit all the c/k series. Or you can get the brace which goes from the steering box bolts to the front crossmember. I know they also sell braces that go in between the frame rails specifically for c series
67-87 k10/k20 should all be the same unless something has been changed. But at 6-8 inch’s of lift I’d go for crossover steering. Much better investment
Non lifted makes it a little different. You can’t fit crossover steering. In your case you can change to a jeep steering shaft and add a brace. As far as I know that’s about all you can do
There’s multiple places. ORD (off road design) sells basically all these parts but you will pay for it. If you look around you can find similar quality for a better price
If you swap out the rag joint for the jeep direct thing, you are going to lose road manners. Vibration will increase and the truck won't be quite as nice to drive. Might not matter on yours but for those of us with 2WD street trucks this is usually a big no-no
I have to correct you. The "six lug" or Half Ton front end, is IDENTICAL to the 3/4 ton "eight lug" front end. Most all of them ran the GM corporate 10 bolt or the DANA 44 axle. The flat top steering knuckle was available on early 1/2 & 3/4 tons, running the DANA 44.
Don’t “have to”. Just trying to help people out. The information I noted still applies. If you don’t have a flat top knuckle, you need one. The majority do.
If crossover is sloppy then it’s due to worn steering box, shaft, steering column, etc. crossover is the best you’re going to get. Much better design than push pull factory style
I have a 1991 1-ton Chevy crew cab square body with 10" lift. 38" tires, with all the same steering modifications. I installed a steering shaft from a 2001 to 2006 3/4-ton Chevy express van, in order to eliminate the stock rag joint steering shaft.
Haven’t heard of that before, that’s pretty cool I’ll have to look into it.
@@danielaguirre5611 Definitely had to do some modifications.
Do you find that your turning radius is too small for daily driving?
@@heathjackson9759 This truck is definitely not a daily driver. I use it to go wheeling and camping only.
Love the truck looks really good 👍
Thank you!
I’ve owned 3 GMC shorties , all 4x4 , and the two that were lifted with 35” tires had sub par steering . I never thought of the push pull design being the issue , and seen your modifications on another video recently. I had heard of welding a plate to the frame , as you certainly don’t want any flex where your steering box is located . Btw nice looking truck you have there . I’ll regret selling my 84 for the rest of my life .
Yes sir it certainly helps a lot. The steering brace is a great addition as well. It will prevent further cracking. Thank you sir. This was my first truck. I’ll never sell it. You had the better ones though. The GMC’s are the best 😎 don’t see them as often as the Chevys
Nice truck man. If you ever decided to sell please let me know. Love it and the vids
Thanks man. I won’t ever be selling but I appreciate the offer. If there’s any videos you want to see I’ll be glad to film and upload them
Nice truck I haven’t lifted my 76 yet but was wondering how I as going to take care of the steering issues once I did. Had a friend in high school that had a nice 78 on a 6 inch lift and he endlessly complained about steering
Thank you. I have it torn apart and need to put it back together.
While it may be more expensive upfront the crossover is great. I’d recommend it to anyone. Makes it a completely better driving truck
@@noah63nova14 have done the XJ swap since you posted this I’m curious how much different it would be after everything is changed
Feel like a whole different truck. Especially if you have a lift and big tires.
If you want to get rid of that old rubber rag joint, I used a borgeson 935 steering shaft with Ujoints you will have to shorten the shaft but it works great and gets rid of the steering delay/slop.
Definitely something I’m going to be doing
Can you make a video of that
So do you have a seperate brace and plate on the frame? I haven't seen anyone else do both but it makes sense..
Yes I have plated the frame as well as brace from steering box
@Noah63Nova sounds good. Absolutely love your truck. Mine is also a factory blue two tone, so I'm deciding whether to go back to blue and white or blue and silver
Thank you sir. Either way I’m sure it’ll turn out great!
@Noah63Nova hope so!
Keep making videos, even if they're just walk arounds. I keep coming back to watch them haha
Is it still being worked on or is it back to running and driving again?
I’m glad you like the videos!
It’s currently just sitting. I haven’t had time to work on it. I regret taking it apart because it drove great. But hopefully this will be the last time
So you still run the 10 bolt front and rear? With as much power as you’re putting down I think I’ll be safe building what I have if the that’s the case.
I was yes. A properly built 8.5 10 bolt will hold much more power than I was putting down
@@noah63nova14 you talked me into it then haha. That and crossover steering!
Man I’ll tell you crossover steering was one of the best things I ever did to the truck. The factory design isn’t great in general then when lifted it just makes it worse. There are plenty of places out there that sell kits to do the crossover. It can get a little expensive buying brand name kits. I ended up just piecing mine together and saved a bit
@@noah63nova14 ok I’ve bought mine October 2022 and am learning from scratch. ORD is the only place I’ve looked and to get the parts to do it it’ll cost me $1248
I bought my kit for a little under $300. Then purchases a c series steering box from summit. I think it was around $200. But I had to weld the ends and cut the DOM but it wasn’t hard
I think it's just the K and V body squares that have issues with the frame cracking, and more so with ones that are raised and/or running larger tires. That being said I still want to check my 86 K2500 for frame cracks even though it's still running factory size tires. Same for my 85 C30... if I can even manage to see the frame around the steering box with the 454 in the way.
I’ve seen 2wd or c series with cracks. I think the big wheels and tires just expedite the process. I’d definitely check it out, doesn’t take but a few seconds for the reassurance. Gotta love a big block!
@@noah63nova14 Well then do they offer the reinforcement plate for 1 ton 2wd trucks? I've seen them in the LMC catalog, but I don't think they are for the C30/C3500 trucks.
Kind of have a few options to my understanding. You can weld a reinforcement plate on which should fit all the c/k series. Or you can get the brace which goes from the steering box bolts to the front crossmember. I know they also sell braces that go in between the frame rails specifically for c series
@@noah63nova14 All I've ever seen are the weld in plates.
That scares me. I inherited a orginal 1500 4x4 suburban that was 14ff swapped and dana 44 swapped sitting on 37s
I need to find a drop pitman arm for a 6-8 inch lift for a 1970 k20 but I can’t find anything
67-87 k10/k20 should all be the same unless something has been changed. But at 6-8 inch’s of lift I’d go for crossover steering. Much better investment
@@noah63nova14 I can’t just use the 4 inch raised steering arm along with a 2 inch drop pitman arm?
I’m sure you could. It really just comes down to how nice you want it to drive
Where can you find the knuckle at?
Couple places. You can find them on eBay as well as Reid Racing. Reid will run you about double of elsewhere
Just search for “GM 10 bolt flat top knuckle”. Bunch of results will come up
Not all 8 lug trucks have a flat top nuclear
You are correct. Those would follow same process as a non flat top 6 lug truck.
@@noah63nova14 i did the same my 8 lug did not
Sweet! Great upgrade
Will these upgrades eliminate bad steering on a non lifted k10 stock suspension?
Non lifted makes it a little different. You can’t fit crossover steering. In your case you can change to a jeep steering shaft and add a brace. As far as I know that’s about all you can do
Hey man how much was it to do the steering upgrade?
All depends on where you buy the parts from. I pieced mine together
@@noah63nova14 Alr thx!
I think I spend $230 on the kit for actual crossover steering then another $100 or so for the c10 gearbox
@@noah63nova14 that’s not to bad I just replaced the tie rod ends and the bar it was 130 because it was a super lift bar
@@noah63nova14 and my truck is lifted so I do if it will work might have to go the custom route
Where might 1 purchase the parts to do this on a 73 k5 blazer 🤷🏾♂️ . Nice rigg bro💯
There’s multiple places. ORD (off road design) sells basically all these parts but you will pay for it. If you look around you can find similar quality for a better price
Do you still have cruise
Have to use a Dakota digital unit or implement a bcm. The latter is much more difficult
@@noah63nova14 are you located in Tx and if so how can I get in touch
I am not in Texas
Nice
Thanks
If you swap out the rag joint for the jeep direct thing, you are going to lose road manners. Vibration will increase and the truck won't be quite as nice to drive. Might not matter on yours but for those of us with 2WD street trucks this is usually a big no-no
I can see how that makes sense but either way the rag joint will a little play to it. How are you fixing that?
I have to correct you. The "six lug" or Half Ton front end, is IDENTICAL to the 3/4 ton "eight lug" front end. Most all of them ran the GM corporate 10 bolt or the DANA 44 axle. The flat top steering knuckle was available on early 1/2 & 3/4 tons, running the DANA 44.
Don’t “have to”. Just trying to help people out. The information I noted still applies. If you don’t have a flat top knuckle, you need one. The majority do.
Cross over is sloppy toi
If crossover is sloppy then it’s due to worn steering box, shaft, steering column, etc. crossover is the best you’re going to get. Much better design than push pull factory style