One of the best and easiest upgrades I did to my k5 was a jeep xj steering shaft. It was almost a direct replacement, it just needed a little grinding for bolt clearance and it eliminated all of slop from the rag joint
@@jameshall4385 I've got a 1990 suburban that's been 1 ton swapped. It could use a little help in the steering department so I'll give it a shot. Thanks bud
I did a full, detailed tear down and rebuild on a tilt steering column a couple months ago. There’s actually 4 torx bolts holding the inner assembly together. It’s worth it to get a pivot pin puller so you can access all four (and throw in some lock tight) because only 1 bolt was actually secure on mine. I’m glad you brought up the drag link because that’s one of the next steps for me!
Great content as usual! Seems like I've had to do this to every squarebody I've owned with tilt column, and there have been MANY. You missed the other bolts in there, but it's more work to get to them. This will help for a while! LoL You could (should!) do a whole video series dedicated the all the squarebody quick fixes that most previous owners neglect! There are quite a few and they're all really annoying and relatively easy to do! You know...the door striker bushings (SLAM SLAM SLAM....latch), window track/slide/roller lubrication (applies to power and manual windows), door hinge pin sag, glove box hinge replacement, vent window latch repair, window scraper seals, inside door handle lever angle adjustment (HATE it when the rubber snubber is gone and they point inward!), pickup rear slider window latch replacement, HVAC blend door clip replacement....the list goes on and on! Looking forward to seeing the builds start in the new shop! Gotta keep your eyes open for a K5 Blazer Chalet....be an AWESOME candidate for the Merrick's Garage treatment!
My column is good, but this is the second video I’ve seen on this issue recently and it’s not from searching for the videos. If I know my bad luck I think the universe is trying to tell me something is coming.😂
unless you pull the pivot pins and disassemble the column further you have only tightened two of the loose bolts. does it work yes.It will work for a while. it helps to wiggle the lock plate compressor side to side as you tighten it down. some times the splines it is uses get a little bond up and you bend the plate instead of compressing it.
Didn’t really do that properly. You have to pull that entire aluminum assembly off via pivot pin puller, there are 4 bolts in there you have to tighten. I only saw you tighten 1.
One thing you have to do is stop using the steering wheel as a grab handle. The steering support and steering housing really don't hold up to the pulling yourself in. Well he said it as I was typing ha ha. Im not sure how many steering housings I've rebuild over the years with GM service while they where under warranty. Cops where the hardest on them. 93,94 where different and had a cover making it a little bit harder to break . By 1995. The steering columns where all different. But most the older steering columns parts will somewhat interchange and yes the jeep steering shaft are a nice up grade.
Wish I had that lock plate compressor when I took mine apart to replace the turn signal cam. Removing and replacing that snap ring is a real pain in the ars. Makes you wish you had a third hand. My hands are getting arthritic now, so I probably couldn't do it today without that tool.
An easier way to do it is to put your wheel straight in the cab, and then just look at your wheels to see which way they need to go to be straight again. Very "straight" forward.
I got rid of my K5 blazer over the steering issues. It had a 8" lift....and bump steer, and steering moved when doing a hard brake and the suspension compressed.
Locktite is your friend. The bolts will back off again. Next time use the pivot pin puller and get the upper two bolts you missed. One other thing to correct. You mentioned the stock push/pull steering had more joints and linkages to wear out. Fact is they have the exact same amount of tie rod ends. The steering arm still bolts to the knuckle. I totally agree crossover is better on a lifted truck but implying there is less to wear because it has less parts isn’t quite on the mark. Point to note those with stock steering can straighten the steering wheel the same way. Just adjust the short drag link to the driver side knuckle is all.
100 agree on the amount of joints, it is more the quality of the joints and the adjustable draglink and tierod. Those are super susceptible to movement and slop.
Idk if you’ve seen someone do this but if you don’t use your coat hooks you can remove them and put roll bar led rock lights and then run the wire behind the trim down the A pillar and wire in a dimmer switch. Did that with my barn door burban and let’s just say it’s night and day lol.
Thanks for the video. Do you have any ideas on removing stuck hinge pins? I was very careful with a puller, lubricant and tapped the pin with a punch, but no success. Thanks in advance for your help.
I know my question is not relevant with the video but, I have a 82 k10 keep overheating on hot days or slow traffic Thermostat is new , water pump is new and I have aluminum radiator and electric fans. Any idea what it is ?
@@MerricksGarage the heater works fine, heater core is new also with the hoses One day the temp went up to 210, but on cool days like today on high speed temp stays 160-180
....uhhhh....@9:41.... I'm NOT saying the stock steering setup is ideal by any means.... BUT your assessment of ' it involves a lot of linkages and joints' is, IMHO, incorrect. You still have the same number of tie rod ends with a crossover setup as you do with the stock steering. What DOES change is the geometry of the steering which I can see helping/improving the steering feel over stock.
Absolutely correct. Crossover steering will greatly improve the bump steer problem. However one thing nobody ever seems to mention is the strength of the factory setup. Squarebody 4X4 setup is extremely strong, except for the box mounting [prone to crack the frame rail, easy fix]. But if you do a lot of highway driving, the bump steer is really annoying and crossover is a great improvement.
You skip the whole step. After you removed the steering wheel, there’s a plastic piece that is covering the metal plate to loosen the snapping. You never said how to remove that plastic piece.
One of the best and easiest upgrades I did to my k5 was a jeep xj steering shaft. It was almost a direct replacement, it just needed a little grinding for bolt clearance and it eliminated all of slop from the rag joint
I have to try that
@@jacobking4106 it only works for 81-91 older ones have different gear boxes
@@jameshall4385 I've got a 1990 suburban that's been 1 ton swapped. It could use a little help in the steering department so I'll give it a shot. Thanks bud
@@jameshall4385 did you buy one off like rock auto or a junk yard one?
@@jacobking4106 i picked mine up at the junkyard.
I did a full, detailed tear down and rebuild on a tilt steering column a couple months ago. There’s actually 4 torx bolts holding the inner assembly together. It’s worth it to get a pivot pin puller so you can access all four (and throw in some lock tight) because only 1 bolt was actually secure on mine. I’m glad you brought up the drag link because that’s one of the next steps for me!
Great content as usual! Seems like I've had to do this to every squarebody I've owned with tilt column, and there have been MANY. You missed the other bolts in there, but it's more work to get to them. This will help for a while! LoL
You could (should!) do a whole video series dedicated the all the squarebody quick fixes that most previous owners neglect! There are quite a few and they're all really annoying and relatively easy to do! You know...the door striker bushings (SLAM SLAM SLAM....latch), window track/slide/roller lubrication (applies to power and manual windows), door hinge pin sag, glove box hinge replacement, vent window latch repair, window scraper seals, inside door handle lever angle adjustment (HATE it when the rubber snubber is gone and they point inward!), pickup rear slider window latch replacement, HVAC blend door clip replacement....the list goes on and on!
Looking forward to seeing the builds start in the new shop! Gotta keep your eyes open for a K5 Blazer Chalet....be an AWESOME candidate for the Merrick's Garage treatment!
I would definitely like to see an interior door handle adjustment on the 81-91s. The never sit right, always pointed inward and don’t sit level
My column is good, but this is the second video I’ve seen on this issue recently and it’s not from searching for the videos. If I know my bad luck I think the universe is trying to tell me something is coming.😂
unless you pull the pivot pins and disassemble the column further you have only tightened two of the loose bolts. does it work yes.It will work for a while. it helps to wiggle the lock plate compressor side to side as you tighten it down. some times the splines it is uses get a little bond up and you bend the plate instead of compressing it.
Locktight it!
Nice AB's top you're wearing.
Thanks for your vids, helping me rebuild my 83 Blazer in NZ.
Didn’t really do that properly. You have to pull that entire aluminum assembly off via pivot pin puller, there are 4 bolts in there you have to tighten. I only saw you tighten 1.
There are 4 bolts that need to be tightened. You cheated yourself.
And add some lock-tite.
Dig your videos
One thing you have to do is stop using the steering wheel as a grab handle. The steering support and steering housing really don't hold up to the pulling yourself in. Well he said it as I was typing ha ha. Im not sure how many steering housings I've rebuild over the years with GM service while they where under warranty. Cops where the hardest on them. 93,94 where different and had a cover making it a little bit harder to break . By 1995. The steering columns where all different. But most the older steering columns parts will somewhat interchange and yes the jeep steering shaft are a nice up grade.
this is good information. They are getting harder to find, its all the more reason to keep the ones you have in decent working order!
@@MerricksGarage yeah the early years models have a lot of interchangeable parts so grapping a column out of some cars are good to have in stock
Wish I had that lock plate compressor when I took mine apart to replace the turn signal cam. Removing and replacing that snap ring is a real pain in the ars. Makes you wish you had a third hand. My hands are getting arthritic now, so I probably couldn't do it today without that tool.
An easier way to do it is to put your wheel straight in the cab, and then just look at your wheels to see which way they need to go to be straight again. Very "straight" forward.
Ha ha. Duh. Yet here I am white boarding it ha ha. Sometimes you can’t see the forest for the trees. 🤦♂️
I got rid of my K5 blazer over the steering issues. It had a 8" lift....and bump steer, and steering moved when doing a hard brake and the suspension compressed.
sounds like you got some problems with the lift not the steering or axle
These are good vids that'll definitely help get new subs! Did this a year ago and what a difference
Extremely useful content, thanks!
Locktite is your friend. The bolts will back off again. Next time use the pivot pin puller and get the upper two bolts you missed. One other thing to correct. You mentioned the stock push/pull steering had more joints and linkages to wear out. Fact is they have the exact same amount of tie rod ends. The steering arm still bolts to the knuckle. I totally agree crossover is better on a lifted truck but implying there is less to wear because it has less parts isn’t quite on the mark. Point to note those with stock steering can straighten the steering wheel the same way. Just adjust the short drag link to the driver side knuckle is all.
100 agree on the amount of joints, it is more the quality of the joints and the adjustable draglink and tierod. Those are super susceptible to movement and slop.
Thank you so much for all your videos!!! It's helped me and my 91 k5
Good information here, thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the quality step by step. You are the man!
Idk if you’ve seen someone do this but if you don’t use your coat hooks you can remove them and put roll bar led rock lights and then run the wire behind the trim down the A pillar and wire in a dimmer switch. Did that with my barn door burban and let’s just say it’s night and day lol.
That’s a great idea!!
they were famous for worn out rag joints , just changed mine on my 1991 gmc 1500.
Question not with the steering but more of what shifter and transmission combo are you running? I like the shifter you have
I have a tremec TR 4050
Thanks for the video. Do you have any ideas on removing stuck hinge pins? I was very careful with a puller, lubricant and tapped the pin with a punch, but no success. Thanks in advance for your help.
Can I put a turn signal switch without the cruise control wire...as I swapped the engine
👍🏻
Merrick when
Adjusting the drag link does the key need to be in the ON position?
So that the steering wheel moves freely?
If you don’t pull yourself up into the vehicle using the steering wheel and you won’t have this problem
Thanks bud
I don’t see in the description or anywhere where you purchased the crossover bar that has the bend in it. Where did you find this part?
Www.offroaddesign.com
All GM cars and trucks did that for years
I know my question is not relevant with the video but, I have a 82 k10 keep overheating on hot days or slow traffic
Thermostat is new , water pump is new and I have aluminum radiator and electric fans.
Any idea what it is ?
does it get hot and keep climbing or just get to a really hot point and you turn it off? still have heater?
@@MerricksGarage the heater works fine, heater core is new also with the hoses
One day the temp went up to 210, but on cool days like today on high speed temp stays 160-180
did it get above 210? That's not terribly high. The LS engines run close to that at operating temp!
@@MerricksGarage it keep climbing and I have to stop, is a sbc 350 I wish I have an LS lol
Do you have a fan shroud?
....uhhhh....@9:41....
I'm NOT saying the stock steering setup is ideal by any means.... BUT your assessment of ' it involves a lot of linkages and joints' is, IMHO, incorrect.
You still have the same number of tie rod ends with a crossover setup as you do with the stock steering.
What DOES change is the geometry of the steering which I can see helping/improving the steering feel over stock.
Absolutely correct. Crossover steering will greatly improve the bump steer problem. However one thing nobody ever seems to mention is the strength of the factory setup. Squarebody 4X4 setup is extremely strong, except for the box mounting [prone to crack the frame rail, easy fix]. But if you do a lot of highway driving, the bump steer is really annoying and crossover is a great improvement.
You skip the whole step. After you removed the steering wheel, there’s a plastic piece that is covering the metal plate to loosen the snapping. You never said how to remove that plastic piece.
Hi sent email and my ##