Very helpful. And all without the time wasting razzle-dazzle graphics, irritating loud noise music and useless ego feeding attempt at entertaining me. GREAT JOB Thank you
Good how to video. Straight to the point and no bs talking for about what to do. I done my ecoboost plugs about a year ago. Probably had 50,000 miles at that time. Its may 2019 and my 2012 ford f150 has only 57000 miles on it. Love the truck and the 3.5 Ecoboost
Do yourself a favor, whoever is watching this, do each cylinder one at a time and dont pry on shit with prybars. Good video and boot replacement suggestion.
i just changed my plugs and boots at 125,000 miles. The boots looked and felt exactly the same as my new ones. I probably should have taken the boots back, but i put them on anyway, since I already bought them. The plugs definitely needed changing. The throttle response was definitely better after the change.
I’d like to add some valuable info for my fellow f150 eco boost owners in regards to engine misfiring, sputtering and going into limp mode. Had my 2016 F150 3.5 eco boost for 7 years. 2 times I had it misfire, sputtering and go into limp mode. Happened twice within 8 months of each. Both times it was the fuel injector and spark plug issue. At the time I was filling up with 85 octane gas. Dealership recommend I switch to premium 91 octane gas as that’s what they recommend for the eco boost. That’s what I did and it’s been 6 years, not one more single issue with misfiring or sputtering. Just hit 100k miles and getting ready to do spark plugs and boots tomorrow.
Ford keeps changing their recommended specs for gapping,but as of now, .030 to .032 is Ford's latest recommended spec for the 1st gen 3.5's(2011-2016)but I have read Ford says anywhere from .028 to .037 is more than acceptable ....I found .030 to be the sweet spot on these for my '16,untuned and .028 tuned....granted,I have a post TSB '16 with the revised intercooler and timing chains/Phasers/guides that fixed the issues found in the 11-early 15's,Like WOT stumble, excessive moisture in the I.C. ,etc....So I'm not 100% sure about the 11-early 15's,....I would probably run those around .028,just to prevent any misfire cause by spark wash out caused by any suspended moisture in the air charge from the I.C.
Excellent straight forward Video !!!! I did end up breaking a coil wire connector. That cost me more than the plugs and rubber grommets ! But it runs so much smoother
I snapped the little clip on 2 of them today.. They still stay in place enough and I just put some electrical tape to hold them in place a little better until I get a chance to replace them. My gap on some of the plugs I pulled was .04-.045, and I gapped all mine to .03 per the owners manual
Well for video purposes of how to change the spark plug. But I would clean the engine first so as not to dislodge lots of dust into the engine. Also be gentle
Do not put any anti-seize or lubricant material on spark plugs or lug nuts as it interferes with proper torque specs and can let vibrations work them loose.
That's a valid question. I didn't pay close enough attention to give you a clear answer, but it wasn't anything I noticed. At 100k, they were still in pretty good shape coming out.
@@MDTH02 I'm getting more like 17-19mpg with a mix of town and short highway trips. In the winter, less. This pickup also has a leveling kit on kit which dropped the mileage some. How long have you had your truck? Winter temps are bad on mpg.
I'm curious. You used SP-534 (CYFS-12-YT3) plugs. Rock Auto has SP-580 (CYFS-12-YT4) as the recommended plug for the '15. I wonder what the difference is.
Hey buddy can you tell me what’s the position of the spark plugs trying to identify the number 1 the code says is the number 1 but I don’t know where is the number 1 # 2 or 3 I know there’s 6 but not how they are positioned
Do not wait the suggested 100k. These trucks EAT spark plugs, especially if you don’t have a catch can bypassing the PCV. I wouldn’t recommend going anywhere over 50k miles on plugs. 25-35k is ideal
Have had 2 ecoboosts; i would get WOT skip at around 70k on both of them. Getting on the highway and mashing pedal is the easiest test. Would skip, stumble and then limp mode for 1-2 miles. Plugs and coils was the fix both times. Just bought 3rd f150 at 90k miles and she is skipping exact same way, looks like a weekend project.
I have a 2016 3.5 ecoboost also i bought my plugs from the dealership and they gave me sp580 plugs. I have them instead and have no codes but i have the engine shudder. Do you think i should change to the sp534 plugs you used in your video?
@@MasterJacks Spark plugs were in about a month truck was sitting for about 3 weeks in the driver way . One day i got home jumped out of my work truck and got in my F-150 then the shudder being. I have no power issues just the shuddering. I will swap my old plugs back in tomorrow and see if the shuddering continues if not it possible could be the plug gapping because i didn't check them before i installed them.
marauder0284 when would your truck shudder? Mine runs great, no check engine light, but when I’m idling (in park, or stopped at a light) that’s when I feel it. Was that what yours was doing?
@@104cannonball from what I've heard, the ecoboost isn't overly prone to excessive build up. The best thing you can do is maintain a clean burn. Run a high quality oil, replace spark plugs, and run a periodic injector cleaner to maintain optimal spray pattern. To remove existing build up, guys have tried running induction cleaners and have done damage to the turbo bearings. The proper removal process involves removing the intake manifold, soaking, picking, and scrubbing the back side of the valves. I'm crossing my fingers the preventative maintenance works! Let me know if you hear of something better!
MasterJacks if got 56,000 miles on my 16. There’s a intake foam called SaeFoam Spray. A mechanic told me also oil changes ever 3,000 miles which I’ve always done. And my 2 cents is buy a K&N air filter.
Great video. I have a 2012 F150 and I'm having trouble with the engine shuttering and missing. The problem occurs when I'm going 65 to 70 and punch it to accelerate. The engine seems to shutter, miss and shut down. I checked online and this is a problem with the ecoboost engine yet Ford hasn't had a recall. They say the problem is condensation and the charge air cooler. I'm also getting poor gas mileage. If I do a tune up, how do I check to see if the coils are bad and do you know of another coil mfg that is better than the Ford ones? thanks
Based on the research you've done, I don't know that replacing the coils will change your symptoms. A bad coil will cause a single cylinder misfire. You can confirm a bad coil by moving it to a known good cylinder and seeing if the misfire moves with the coil. If you're getting an engine shutdown, it's a fault or safety feature common to all cylinders (ie. cam or crank sensors, throttle body). I have another video where this pickup shut down on me and ended up taking a throttle body. It kills the engine if it isn't working right because it doesn't want to fail in a way that compromises safety. I haven't researched or come across the condensation problem/solution. I hope you'll share what you find out. Thanks for watching.
I had the same symptoms in my 2012 Ecoboost before I upgraded to the 2016. Every time I stomped the gas it would shudder really badly. I did the same maintenance as shown in this video and my shuddering went away. Never had another issue with it.
WTF you are doing? 2016 is a fairly new car(to me is bran new), there should be nothing need to be done-if there is any, then you don’t buy the fucking car!!!
Fantastic video. To the point. Exactly the details needed. Even included part numbers and links. I wish all how-to videos were just like this.
Very helpful.
And all without the time wasting razzle-dazzle graphics, irritating loud noise music and useless ego feeding attempt at entertaining me. GREAT JOB
Thank you
Good how to video. Straight to the point and no bs talking for about what to do. I done my ecoboost plugs about a year ago. Probably had 50,000 miles at that time. Its may 2019 and my 2012 ford f150 has only 57000 miles on it. Love the truck and the 3.5 Ecoboost
Straightforward video. I like that you include your learning experiences and mistakes in your videos.
Great video. Including your learning experiences and mistakes is very helpful.
Do yourself a favor, whoever is watching this, do each cylinder one at a time and dont pry on shit with prybars. Good video and boot replacement suggestion.
Whats the boot part number?
i just changed my plugs and boots at 125,000 miles. The boots looked and felt exactly the same as my new ones. I probably should have taken the boots back, but i put them on anyway, since I already bought them. The plugs definitely needed changing. The throttle response was definitely better after the change.
Well done video ! Clear, concise,to the point. You should do a video on how to do videos. Thanks
I broke almost every red tab until I watched this video. Also, those coil plugs DID NOT want to come off. It was way harder to get off than yours
I’d like to add some valuable info for my fellow f150 eco boost owners in regards to engine misfiring, sputtering and going into limp mode.
Had my 2016 F150 3.5 eco boost for 7 years. 2 times I had it misfire, sputtering and go into limp mode. Happened twice within 8 months of each. Both times it was the fuel injector and spark plug issue.
At the time I was filling up with 85 octane gas.
Dealership recommend I switch to premium 91 octane gas as that’s what they recommend for the eco boost.
That’s what I did and it’s been 6 years, not one more single issue with misfiring or sputtering.
Just hit 100k miles and getting ready to do spark plugs and boots tomorrow.
Thanks, this helped do mine the first time at 81,000kms for 2016.
Ford keeps changing their recommended specs for gapping,but as of now, .030 to .032 is Ford's latest recommended spec for the 1st gen 3.5's(2011-2016)but I have read Ford says anywhere from .028 to .037 is more than acceptable ....I found .030 to be the sweet spot on these for my '16,untuned and .028 tuned....granted,I have a post TSB '16 with the revised intercooler and timing chains/Phasers/guides that fixed the issues found in the 11-early 15's,Like WOT stumble, excessive moisture in the I.C. ,etc....So I'm not 100% sure about the 11-early 15's,....I would probably run those around .028,just to prevent any misfire cause by spark wash out caused by any suspended moisture in the air charge from the I.C.
I just had this done at a shop for over $1500! I'll be doing this myself...lesson learned. 0r i just may avoid Fords!
Excellent straight forward Video !!!!
I did end up breaking a coil wire connector. That cost me more than the plugs and rubber grommets ! But it runs so much smoother
I snapped the little clip on 2 of them today.. They still stay in place enough and I just put some electrical tape to hold them in place a little better until I get a chance to replace them. My gap on some of the plugs I pulled was .04-.045, and I gapped all mine to .03 per the owners manual
@@Bigbogski did you break the little red plastic piece that you pull back to release the the coil?
Nice video! I was your 1000 like!
Thank you sir. Great video
Well for video purposes of how to change the spark plug. But I would clean the engine first so as not to dislodge lots of dust into the engine. Also be gentle
I just recently discovered that dielectric grease is an insulator, not a conductor.
Correct, maybe I said that wrong? It's a good insulator and moisture barrier for electrical connections. Thanks for the comment!
Haha true! Also strongly recommended.
I use a dielectric spray lube that is a conductor . . . Home Depot.
Hopefully I will be doing this job this weekend.
Great video. Thanks!
great video man thanks for sharing
You are Awesome my friend..
Thanks really helped me a lot 💯🤝🏽
How did you remove the plastic cover on the passenger side? That's what I'm looking for but it was skipped over
Awesome 👌 thanks
Great video. About to do my 2015 same model. Feels like misfire or stutters around 55-65 mph. Hope it goes as smooth
Did replacing the plugs fix it for you?
Do not put any anti-seize or lubricant material on spark plugs or lug nuts as it interferes with proper torque specs and can let vibrations work them loose.
Never ever in my 50+ yrs have I torqued a spark plug & never has it been an issue 🤷♂️
I disagree with antisieze affecting the torque spec or allowing vibrations to work them loose.
Is this the same on standard 3.5 engine....((non turbo))??
What was your mpg before and after your spark plug change? Thanks for making this video
That's a valid question. I didn't pay close enough attention to give you a clear answer, but it wasn't anything I noticed. At 100k, they were still in pretty good shape coming out.
Thanks. What’s the average mpg are you getting with your truck. I’m currently getting around 14
@@MDTH02 I'm getting more like 17-19mpg with a mix of town and short highway trips. In the winter, less. This pickup also has a leveling kit on kit which dropped the mileage some. How long have you had your truck? Winter temps are bad on mpg.
I bought the truck used with 100,000 miles on it I’m currently at 120,000 miles. Getting ready to put new plugs in it.
@@MasterJacks This echos exactly how my '15 behaves. I tend to be a heavy footed driver.
I think...well I know, that most definitely would have cleaned the work-area BEFORE I loosened a single screw....just saying !
How different is it on the standard non turbo 3.5 ? Thank you
I'm curious. You used SP-534 (CYFS-12-YT3) plugs. Rock Auto has SP-580 (CYFS-12-YT4) as the recommended plug for the '15. I wonder what the difference is.
I think you'd be fine with whatever they recommend. I believe they're both an iridium plug.
The difference as I see it is that the sp-580-x comes pregapped to .054" which is way to wide for an ecoboost. causing misfires.
@@MasterJacks
Hey buddy can you tell me what’s the position of the spark plugs trying to identify the number 1 the code says is the number 1 but I don’t know where is the number 1 # 2 or 3 I know there’s 6 but not how they are positioned
#1 cylinder is on the passenger side (RH bank), closest to the radiator. 1,2,3 front to rear.
@@MasterJacks thank you 🙏 I really appreciate it thanks again for the help
At what mileage should plugs be replaced at?
For this vehicle, around a 100k.
Do not wait the suggested 100k. These trucks EAT spark plugs, especially if you don’t have a catch can bypassing the PCV. I wouldn’t recommend going anywhere over 50k miles on plugs. 25-35k is ideal
Have had 2 ecoboosts; i would get WOT skip at around 70k on both of them. Getting on the highway and mashing pedal is the easiest test. Would skip, stumble and then limp mode for 1-2 miles. Plugs and coils was the fix both times.
Just bought 3rd f150 at 90k miles and she is skipping exact same way, looks like a weekend project.
@@DoubleTap702 how much different is it to change the plugs on same engine without the economy boost? Standard engine 3.5.....?
I have a 2016 3.5 ecoboost also i bought my plugs from the dealership and they gave me sp580 plugs. I have them instead and have no codes but i have the engine shudder. Do you think i should change to the sp534 plugs you used in your video?
I doubt the spark plugs are the issue unless it's a new symptom that started after replacement.
@@MasterJacks Spark plugs were in about a month truck was sitting for about 3 weeks in the driver way . One day i got home jumped out of my work truck and got in my F-150 then the shudder being. I have no power issues just the shuddering. I will swap my old plugs back in tomorrow and see if the shuddering continues if not it possible could be the plug gapping because i didn't check them before i installed them.
@@marauder0284 any update on this?
I had my transmission serviced and the issue went away. It was not his fault for the issue after all.
marauder0284 when would your truck shudder? Mine runs great, no check engine light, but when I’m idling (in park, or stopped at a light) that’s when I feel it. Was that what yours was doing?
How many miles are on the plugs?
Right around 97k
MasterJacks do you know anything about preventing and or cleaning carbon on the back side of the intake values.
@@104cannonball from what I've heard, the ecoboost isn't overly prone to excessive build up. The best thing you can do is maintain a clean burn. Run a high quality oil, replace spark plugs, and run a periodic injector cleaner to maintain optimal spray pattern. To remove existing build up, guys have tried running induction cleaners and have done damage to the turbo bearings. The proper removal process involves removing the intake manifold, soaking, picking, and scrubbing the back side of the valves. I'm crossing my fingers the preventative maintenance works! Let me know if you hear of something better!
MasterJacks if got 56,000 miles on my 16. There’s a intake foam called SaeFoam Spray. A mechanic told me also oil changes ever 3,000 miles which I’ve always done. And my 2 cents is buy a K&N air filter.
@@104cannonball sounds good. I've had good luck with SeaFoam.
Great video. I have a 2012 F150 and I'm having trouble with the engine shuttering and missing. The problem occurs when I'm going 65 to 70 and punch it to accelerate. The engine seems to shutter, miss and shut down. I checked online and this is a problem with the ecoboost engine yet Ford hasn't had a recall. They say the problem is condensation and the charge air cooler. I'm also getting poor gas mileage. If I do a tune up, how do I check to see if the coils are bad and do you know of another coil mfg that is better than the Ford ones? thanks
Based on the research you've done, I don't know that replacing the coils will change your symptoms. A bad coil will cause a single cylinder misfire. You can confirm a bad coil by moving it to a known good cylinder and seeing if the misfire moves with the coil. If you're getting an engine shutdown, it's a fault or safety feature common to all cylinders (ie. cam or crank sensors, throttle body). I have another video where this pickup shut down on me and ended up taking a throttle body. It kills the engine if it isn't working right because it doesn't want to fail in a way that compromises safety. I haven't researched or come across the condensation problem/solution. I hope you'll share what you find out. Thanks for watching.
I had the same symptoms in my 2012 Ecoboost before I upgraded to the 2016. Every time I stomped the gas it would shudder really badly. I did the same maintenance as shown in this video and my shuddering went away. Never had another issue with it.
You did the maintenance on your 2012 and the shuddering went away? How long did you keep the 2012 before you upgraded to a 2016?
I would look at the electronic throttle body for shuttering and shut off. I had the same issue.
Probably junk in the air cooler. I drilled a hole in mine and it works well
Damn... I just paid the shop $400 to do this to my truck. 🤦🏾
How many miles on plugs. and was it the first replacement?
This pickup had just under 100k. It was the first replacement. 100,000 miles is pretty standard replacement interval for platinum/iridium plugs.
Chauffe moteur, 3.5 ecoboost 2016.
Too careless for me to hire you.
I’m sure he would take more care working on a customers car.
WTF you are doing? 2016 is a fairly new car(to me is bran new), there should be nothing need to be done-if there is any, then you don’t buy the fucking car!!!
It has a hundred thousand miles. It's a machine and requires maintenance.