****PS****. Just a wee warning that isn’t mentioned in your video. If you separate the feeler gauges and use them individually (like I did, because access to the valves was a little ‘tight’), there is a small risk of the feeler gauge ‘poinging’ directly into your engine and down the camshaft (like it did to me; because these things always happen to me ☹️). Long story short, I eventually bought a new LH gasket and removed the LH cover to retrieve the feeler gauge from behind the magneto wheel. Definitely had that sinking feeling of ‘I broke my bike’ for a few weeks while I decided what to do. Hope this helps other viewers.
Thanks for sharing, this is a perfect video. Nothing to add, nothing to remove. Such a nice explanation. Thanks once again, for making our life easier :) 🙋
This is a great instructional video. I just purchased a new Scram 411 last week because of the ease of home maintenance, and your 1st ride videos with yours were a help as well. I was unaware that this bike came with a slipper clutch and that the motors must be rotated counter clockwise. I haven’t seen or heard this from any other video I have watched. I’m going to have to get my hands on the shop manual for the bike as well. Thanks for taking the time to make these type of videos. The amount of time and effort that go into them is a lot, and they are much appreciated.
I enjoy your videos guys. Good work. In the era of information overload bike servicing is the opposite. You can't just buy a service manual to put your dirty paw prints all over. So just getting simple basic is really needed. Ta from Townsville in Australia.
My dealer wanted $600 for the first 300 mile service (that's including a 20% discount). I decide to do the oil change myself, and I'm glad I did it.. The dealer doesn't use good oil, and I don't have control over it. I got Motul 300V 15w-50, and after the change, the engine ran so smooth. Gear change was noticeably smoother as well. The process was a breeze. Bought the filter off amazon for $12 and the oil was about $66. Just need a wrench; very straightforward process. Now I will watch youtube to understand how to check the tappet. Save myself a ton of money.
I set mine to 0.127mm on both the inlet & exhaust. Run like a dream & nice & smooth at idle. Those factory settings didn't work on mine-it wouldn't idle & kept cutting out around town. I found that an early DR650 has 0.130mm inlet & exhaust which seemed close to what I measured on mine before I adjusted them. I'm guessing they've copied the DR650 cam to some degree. 0.127mm was the closest I had on my feeler gauge. Worked a treat.
Great job made it look easy, don't own an RE so no idea why I watched the video, some sort of service ASMR with the tweeting birds in the background :)
Looks a let less fiddly than on the Meteor. Loved the diddy torque wrench both mine are massive. Seem to recall when it was just a few foot lbs (I’m ancient) we used a little spanner, a few more it was a socket and only on important stuff did the torque wrench come out which back then was the type with the pointer moving across the scale. Loved the video. The RE’s must be ideal for Suffolk.
Hi bud thanks for the comment. The diddy torque wrench only comes out for the videos, i prefer using the one built in my elbow lol. The RE are great for these roads you are absolutely correct! Cheers
Hey nick is there somewhere you went to find all the torque specs? I've been working on my himalayan and using your videos for reference. You've done a great job showing how it's done. Thabks for your hard work!
Depending on what you are used to and what you have owned in the past. Generally the gearbox is smooth. Check your clutch free play. It should have 4-5mm movement on the inside of the lever unit It pulls the cable
I am about to the the same procedure and a few other stuff and was wondering where did you get the torque specs for the bike. I couldn`t find that in the manual. I am interested mainly in the torque for the triple clamp bolts/ones holding the fork leg/. Thank you for the great video, definitely a guide I would follow.
One on the engine one on the crank. ??? It would have been nice had to shown us I can find a line through the top bolt yet still can't find one on the crank
@@lifeinthewild6187 from my understanding the newer models have changed, no T mark. Take the spark plug out. Put a screw driver down the hole and turn the crank over, you’ll see the driver move up with the piston and you can find top dead centre yourself
I have a new scram 411. Royal Enfield just sent dealers a notice saying that the 300 mile valve check is no longer required. Since you're exhaust valve was tight what do you think of this recommendation?
I’m hoping your source of information is correct as both instances on my scram and my wife’s himmy required adjustments after 300 miles. The only way this would have changed is that Royal Enfield have improved the production line quality control process ( which is probable) Id request this “ update bulletin” in an email from your dealership to cover any future issues should you get any. If you are confident with spanner’s then check it yourself, better be safe than sorry. After all it cannot do any harm and it’ll give you peace of mind Failing that get a second opinion from a completely different dealership, you can also email royal Enfield direct with your vin number and they can check for you Hope this helps
@@NickandJodie I have just ordered a new one, sales guy said notification from Enfield no valve check unless asked for by customer on any service! i asked about the servicing as I wanted to do it myself but was advised not to as it would be very difficult making a warranty claim
Hey nick, do you find that you can still hear the valves ticking after adjustment? I've checked mine 3 times now and when letting off the throttle I'm still getting some clatter at lower rpms. Are you finding this to be normal?
@nicksepisode I'm at 666.2. I adjusted at 324.5. I've rechecked a couple times and on the exhaust the 023 fits tight, good drag and on the intake the 010 fits tight, good drag. I bought the adjustment tool so I was able to make fine adjustments. It seems worse when it's hot, like in traffic and such
@@marklescault9429 it’s worse when it’s hot because the oil is thin. I think the noise you hear is normal as this engine isn’t a quite one due it’s old school design
@nicksepisode ok, that's what i was hoping. You know how it is when you hear an unfamiliar noise....hard to stop obsessing. It didn't have this sound before I adjusted, but when I first opened it I couldn't get a 010 into the exhaust it was so tight and I couldn't get anything into the intake so I've opened it considerably compared to how it was. Thabk you so much for taking the time to respond. I really appreciate your help and your awesome videos😃😃😃😃
@njepisodes yup- pretty much how I always check the oil. I changed just the oil at 200kms, and re-filled to just at the top line. The Scram runs much better now, especially at or above 100kph.
@@brunodanner7777 at hot after 2 minutes oil should be on the top line, no higher, after draining overnight the oil level will be much higher, very near the top of the window
Did I miss the valve adjustment. You can talk yet you fail to explain in a way that we all understand. .the line and t mark . It's not shown. The feeler gauge you don't show the part we need .
@@lifeinthewild6187 check out my Honda monkey service video you can see the feeler gauge better it’s the same set up. I didn’t have a good camera to get close to the valve it’s self on this particular job.
Finally, a proper maintenance video for a scram
Thank you 😊
Your maintenance videos are 2nd to none. Very clear, easily understood and clearly filmed
Thank you so much. They take a long time and these comments make it more worthwhile
****PS****. Just a wee warning that isn’t mentioned in your video. If you separate the feeler gauges and use them individually (like I did, because access to the valves was a little ‘tight’), there is a small risk of the feeler gauge ‘poinging’ directly into your engine and down the camshaft (like it did to me; because these things always happen to me ☹️). Long story short, I eventually bought a new LH gasket and removed the LH cover to retrieve the feeler gauge from behind the magneto wheel. Definitely had that sinking feeling of ‘I broke my bike’ for a few weeks while I decided what to do. Hope this helps other viewers.
Great bit of info there Johnny, thank you
Just did the same thing. I was lucky to be able to get it out with a pair of needle nose pliers.
Thanks for sharing, this is a perfect video. Nothing to add, nothing to remove. Such a nice explanation.
Thanks once again, for making our life easier :) 🙋
You're very welcome!
This is a great instructional video. I just purchased a new Scram 411 last week because of the ease of home maintenance, and your 1st ride videos with yours were a help as well. I was unaware that this bike came with a slipper clutch and that the motors must be rotated counter clockwise. I haven’t seen or heard this from any other video I have watched. I’m going to have to get my hands on the shop manual for the bike as well.
Thanks for taking the time to make these type of videos. The amount of time and effort that go into them is a lot, and they are much appreciated.
Thank you for the comment. It really means a lot. Yes, they do take a long time to do, but these comments make it worthwhile.
As usual Nick, your maintenance videos are excellent, thorough, and easy to follow. Good to see somebody using a torque wrench properly.
Thanks, Dave. That's why I love these bikes. It's easy for the owner to get involved, and these videos are made to make that possible
I enjoy your videos guys. Good work. In the era of information overload bike servicing is the opposite. You can't just buy a service manual to put your dirty paw prints all over. So just getting simple basic is really needed. Ta from Townsville in Australia.
Great point!
Thank you for your introduction, very well done and presented. Great!
Thank you
Definitely the best tutorial on TH-cam for this! Thank you so much!
I'm honoured
Thank you. It's nice to see someone taking pride in their work too 🙏
Thank you!!! The calming birdsong is helpful too :-)
I thought so too !
My dealer wanted $600 for the first 300 mile service (that's including a 20% discount). I decide to do the oil change myself, and I'm glad I did it.. The dealer doesn't use good oil, and I don't have control over it. I got Motul 300V 15w-50, and after the change, the engine ran so smooth. Gear change was noticeably smoother as well. The process was a breeze. Bought the filter off amazon for $12 and the oil was about $66. Just need a wrench; very straightforward process. Now I will watch youtube to understand how to check the tappet. Save myself a ton of money.
you my friend have cracked the system! good job!
Nice one. Nick, really well executed and very clearly explained, I have seen a fair few of these and yours is by far the best, thanks for sharing
Thank you Peter that means alot
Nice one Nick great video and shows that anyone can do it with a little time a patience, saving money. 👍
Absolutely
The bike loox well nice. As usual clear, calm and concise demonstration.
Thank you Simon. I'm truly smitten with it.
@@NickandJodie I bet you say that about all the bixe🙂
@@simonchilli2088 indeed
Very clear. Nice job and thanks
You’re welcome
I set mine to 0.127mm on both the inlet & exhaust. Run like a dream & nice & smooth at idle. Those factory settings didn't work on mine-it wouldn't idle & kept cutting out around town. I found that an early DR650 has 0.130mm inlet & exhaust which seemed close to what I measured on mine before I adjusted them. I'm guessing they've copied the DR650 cam to some degree. 0.127mm was the closest I had on my feeler gauge. Worked a treat.
Good job bud
very informative, thanks greetings from germany
Glad it was helpful!
Very clear! Thank you!
Thanks for the directions...appreciated
You are welcome
Very much appreciated! I am keeping this for a referece as I hope to get the Scram next year.
Good choice!
Excellent...very professional.
Thank you very much!
clean work
What an awesome how-to video!
Thank you very much. Taking care of a bike like this could save you enough for its replacement down the road.
You are absolutely correct
Very nice tutorial. So many have adjusted their valves on the wrong stroke.
Excellent video , Thanks
Cheers
Looks like great bikes to work on. Remember Jodie, you promised to do it yourselves next time. This looked so easy that I'll bet you can do it. 💪
And that is what we call foreshadowing...... 😬 lol - Jo
Good wishes to you
Thank you! You too!
Great job made it look easy, don't own an RE so no idea why I watched the video, some sort of service ASMR with the tweeting birds in the background :)
Yes that's the vibe im going for hehe, glad you liked it :)
thank you!
You're welcome 😊
you Service better than most of the royal enfield service centers in INDIA
Thank you so much
Great vid!
Thanks, very clear and concise!
Looks a let less fiddly than on the Meteor. Loved the diddy torque wrench both mine are massive. Seem to recall when it was just a few foot lbs (I’m ancient) we used a little spanner, a few more it was a socket and only on important stuff did the torque wrench come out which back then was the type with the pointer moving across the scale. Loved the video. The RE’s must be ideal for Suffolk.
Hi bud thanks for the comment. The diddy torque wrench only comes out for the videos, i prefer using the one built in my elbow lol. The RE are great for these roads you are absolutely correct! Cheers
Thank you very much good sir , amazing helpful !
Thank you 🙏
Thanks for sharing. Got a new himalayan and i think it´s identical to do this servicing. ❤
Is yours a 411?
@@NickandJodie yes, it is. Thelast version of it from 2023
OMG Oilchange. It was nice to meet you Scram. Next Episode Nicks new bike hunt
You didn't disappoint me Mario, I was expecting this comment haha
Like a death row inmate eating their last meal 😂
Excellent clear instructions-
I try my best!
Hey nick is there somewhere you went to find all the torque specs? I've been working on my himalayan and using your videos for reference. You've done a great job showing how it's done. Thabks for your hard work!
Thanks for the appreciation Mark. Just Google search the workshop manual and you’ll find it. All the best
Good vid mate make it look easy 😊
Cheers buddy
Fantastic
amazing video thanks
You’re welcome
Thank for this video , are you happy with your new bike ?
Oh extremely happy 😊
Excelente vídeo. Parabens.
cheers
Great informative video, not sure about the added bird song track though!!! 🤣
I love a blue tit 💙
I love ASMR motorcycle maintenance. I can almost do the same right up until the point the socket or my hand slips and skin comes off my knuckles.
Yup, I've been there many times. Lol
I bought one of these and I love it! Only complaint is when shifting you can hear the gear clunk even with clutch fully depressed I’m not sure why
Depending on what you are used to and what you have owned in the past. Generally the gearbox is smooth. Check your clutch free play. It should have 4-5mm movement on the inside of the lever unit It pulls the cable
I am about to the the same procedure and a few other stuff and was wondering where did you get the torque specs for the bike. I couldn`t find that in the manual.
I am interested mainly in the torque for the triple clamp bolts/ones holding the fork leg/.
Thank you for the great video, definitely a guide I would follow.
You can find the workshop manual after a little Google search
Is the oil sight glass viewed on the side stand or when the bike is upright.
When the bike is upright
One on the engine one on the crank. ??? It would have been nice had to shown us I can find a line through the top bolt yet still can't find one on the crank
@@lifeinthewild6187 from my understanding the newer models have changed, no T mark. Take the spark plug out. Put a screw driver down the hole and turn the crank over, you’ll see the driver move up with the piston and you can find top dead centre yourself
Should we look at the sight glass when the bike is on its side stand?
No. Use the main stand on a flat gradient
Great video! Thank you so much. What torque wrench and feeler gauge would you recommend?
Halfords are great for the monkey, but to b honest you can get cheaper ones on amazon
Hey sir,does doing valve adjustment by ourself during warranty period voids our warranty?
if done within the 3 years from new then yes it will
I have a new scram 411. Royal Enfield just sent dealers a notice saying that the 300 mile valve check is no longer required. Since you're exhaust valve was tight what do you think of this recommendation?
I’m hoping your source of information is correct as both instances on my scram and my wife’s himmy required adjustments after 300 miles.
The only way this would have changed is that Royal Enfield have improved the production line quality control process ( which is probable)
Id request this “ update bulletin” in an email from your dealership to cover any future issues should you get any.
If you are confident with spanner’s then check it yourself, better be safe than sorry. After all it cannot do any harm and it’ll give you peace of mind
Failing that get a second opinion from a completely different dealership, you can also email royal Enfield direct with your vin number and they can check for you
Hope this helps
@@NickandJodie I have just ordered a new one, sales guy said notification from Enfield no valve check unless asked for by customer on any service! i asked about the servicing as I wanted to do it myself but was advised not to as it would be very difficult making a warranty claim
Do you ever soak the filter first?
Sometimes. It’s controversial as soaking it could lead to debris getting in the clean side.
What make of torque wrench is that cheers. Not to big.
It’s just a cheap silverline 3/8 one
Can you do video for 5000km service?
Pretty much the same
@@NickandJodie ahh very cool I'll have a look in the manual for any changes but thanks heaps for your vids they are great! Love my scram
Hey nick, do you find that you can still hear the valves ticking after adjustment? I've checked mine 3 times now and when letting off the throttle I'm still getting some clatter at lower rpms. Are you finding this to be normal?
@@marklescault9429 hey bud what’s your mileage?
@nicksepisode I'm at 666.2. I adjusted at 324.5. I've rechecked a couple times and on the exhaust the 023 fits tight, good drag and on the intake the 010 fits tight, good drag. I bought the adjustment tool so I was able to make fine adjustments. It seems worse when it's hot, like in traffic and such
@@marklescault9429 it’s worse when it’s hot because the oil is thin. I think the noise you hear is normal as this engine isn’t a quite one due it’s old school design
@nicksepisode ok, that's what i was hoping. You know how it is when you hear an unfamiliar noise....hard to stop obsessing. It didn't have this sound before I adjusted, but when I first opened it I couldn't get a 010 into the exhaust it was so tight and I couldn't get anything into the intake so I've opened it considerably compared to how it was. Thabk you so much for taking the time to respond. I really appreciate your help and your awesome videos😃😃😃😃
@@marklescault9429 did you rotate the crank twice as sometimes Top dead centre could land on the exhaust stroke where the valve will be tight
I always am frustrated with new bike oil levels, both my new Scram and Ninja400 came with oil levels filling the sight glass completely!
The best way to check is; warm the engine up. Turn off for 2 mins, then ceck oil level
@njepisodes yup- pretty much how I always check the oil. I changed just the oil at 200kms, and re-filled to just at the top line. The Scram runs much better now, especially at or above 100kph.
@@brunodanner7777 at hot after 2 minutes oil should be on the top line, no higher, after draining overnight the oil level will be much higher, very near the top of the window
@jezwatson8211 The oil was almost to the top after being warmed up/ridden and let sit for a few minutes.
@@brunodanner7777 you can have too much crankcase pressure if overfilled and end up with oil in the air filter
When you say look into the inspection hole and I’ll see a line followed by a T what do I do if it’s so tight it won’t really move.
Remove the spark plug. It shouldn't be too tight
@@NickandJodie ok thank you got it lined up it’s just moving the tire when I turn my socket wrench
@@exavier9830 put it in neutral
@@NickandJodie thank you so much
@@NickandJodieok last thing I’m gonna ask about. At 5:50 when you say set the crank to tdc is it possible to explain a little better at all?😭
Can I ask where you got that torque wrench?
Link in the description bud
Easy bike to maintain
Also cheap
Royal Enfield saves you money
Cheap to buy, 3 years warranty, 3 years brakedown recovery, 200 miles per tank, and easy to maintain. What's no to like, eh?
Why does this need to be done at such low milage?
because the valves are old school, easy to maintain, but not the most efficient way of doing it
Obviously there are not too many bikes, that allow to do THIS ....
Another plus for Royal Enfield
Did I miss the valve adjustment. You can talk yet you fail to explain in a way that we all understand. .the line and t mark . It's not shown. The feeler gauge you don't show the part we need .
@@lifeinthewild6187 check out my Honda monkey service video you can see the feeler gauge better it’s the same set up. I didn’t have a good camera to get close to the valve it’s self on this particular job.