Husky Compressor Repair and Modification
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ก.ย. 2024
- This Video explains how I repaired this Husky Pro compressor. I also modified the cooling system, and gave it a status box with LED indicators. Really handy to see if I have the breaker on or off for the garage.
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Paul you have some simply great videos! You're a gearhead, work with your hands
with electronics and tools and welding etc, you're a genius electrical engineer...that's freaking awesome! Love seeing the thorough job you do on every piece of equipment you repair/restore. Excellent narration and explanations as well. Bravo and keep it up!
Thanks for your kind comment!
I'm pretty good, but I don't have enough OCD to ever be as good and thorough as you. LOL
Another elegant solution to a problem caused by poor design and probably misuse. As usual you manage to be both informative and entertainment. Once again thank you.
+Robert Langford
Thanks Robert!
quite air compressor
I definitely agree! Thanks for showing this.... Quite instructive and taught very well.
Mr. Carlson, you have got immense knowledge in many subjects and to call you Renaissance Man would be an understatement. One thing I would buy from you is your autobiography. I wish we were neighbors. I do a lot of work with my hands and I'm ridculed throughout my neighborhood. (I never loan tools) People get very upset and jumpstart their inferiority complex. I do what grabs me and thrusts me into a project and many times it's maintenance on my car and house. My garage was demolished long ago so maybe I should have one built so I can hide away while I work on my car and projects necessitating use of saws and drills. The unexamined life is not worth living.
Interesting write John. Thanks for your kind comment!
By the way, Paul-a trick I learned from Coleman lantern collectors who re-paint their tanks is to bake the spray paint in an over at about 180 F for about an hour. Hard as a rock afterwards. Great trick for the impatient (me). Either buy a cheap toaster over, or do in kitchen when spouse is gone.....
I have been listening to so many Mr. Carlson's videos that I recognized your voice before I noticed the name on the video.
I was doing something completely different, and, I know that voice. Doh!
I started watching this video and the voice sounded familiar. I hadn't scrolled down to see where it was from but now it's from Paul. I didn't know he got into other things but radios.
Thanks for the variation of the channel.
Paul, I have a 16 year old version of this compressor. I use it mainly to winterize mine and my neighbors in-ground sprinkler systems, cleaning filters, inflating tires, etc. It's been 100% reliable. But then again, I change the oil yearly, check the belts, and drain the moisture out of the bottom of the tank often. I paid $399 from Home Depot 16 years ago. I couldn't be happier. BTW, I changed the twisty petcock drain valve with a quarter turn ball valve and used a length of copper tubing that's drilled through my garage wall to the outside so there's no water spraying on the floor.
+Glenn Martin
The ball valve is a great idea. Venting it outside is great as well! Must get cold where you live. Thanks for your comment Glenn!
+Mr Carlson's Lab It's 21 degrees here right now. They say it's supposed to go down to 15 late tonight. I hate the cold. BTW, Here's a picture of the ball valve setup.
i135.photobucket.com/albums/q146/atbglenn/misc/DSC_6773_zpspb0iborw.jpg
Very, very nice modification! I know, 6 years later, but that's impressive. There have been times that I would have liked to perform after market modifications to some items in my shop and having this kind of knowledge would have been handy. Well done, sir... well done.
Also, when the compressor stops, the pulley "fan" stops with it. I am so loving this. I am always modifying things to make them better than they were new. That fan/cowl design with the extended run circuit is genius. Those 110 fans are quiet, efficient and VERY powerful. They move a lot of air. You now have a large capacity compressor in your shop that has a smaller foot print than the old girl. I'll bet she served you well. RIP. Sand blast time!! ;-) Damn! I knew you were going to cover this. (My first sentence). I guess I should watch the whole video before I comment or just go with my gut instinct from the start. We are, after all, watching Mr. Carlson. He doesn't miss much. Great build and upgrade!
The expression "jack of all trades master of none" well sir, you are the exception to that phrase.
Hey Paul ,
Nice to see you again , I don't know how much difference it will make but I noticed that your new pully doesn't have the fan ability of the original one ! The old one was designed to cool the head and cylinders when running . Hopefully it won't affect yours with over heating problems ! Otherwise what a great score and so useful for your shop and lab !
Nice looking weld beads Paul. Mine look like a relief map of the Rockies.
Hahaha. That's what grinders are for. He has more patience than anyone.
I love all the "over engineering" you put into your projects! The way things ought to be!
Keep the vids/projects coming.
ka5get Thanks for the nice comment!
Love your videos ! A perfectionist, i know all about that. I'm not happy unless things are just so. Keep filming!
Your friends know you quite well. Great job fixing that compressor. Better now than the day it was made!
One trick i use with small diecast boxes like you've used here, i always go for countersunk screws and with 5mm LEDS they survive the abuse of having their protrusion sawn off, filed and sanded flat to the surface. Then when it comes paint time i dab a spot of grease on them to mask them and once the paint dries its easy to expose them again for a truly smooth look....
+peteb2
Thanks for your input Pete!
I love how complex you made this solution... I built an after-cooler onto my portable compressor a couple weeks ago (great recommendation for yours btw, will solve the issue of your tank getting crazy hot & reduce moisture and pressure loss), and decided it needed a cooling fan, so I was thinking i'd just wire it to the same terminals as the motor on the pressure switch.. but my fan was undersized since it was just something I had laying around, so I just wired it to the main line voltage connections (120v compressor) so it's always on when the compressor is plugged in. Much smaller fan, so you don't really hear it, but yeah your solution puts mine to shame! 😅
Beautifully done. Great kit too. Shame about every compressor seems to be so noisy. Am sure there are quiet ones about, but in this free situation ..... wow !
What you have there is a QD bushing. Short for Quick Disconnect. They were designed originally for washing machine repairs now used primarily in industrial applications. Good call on using it!
For our building we have ours sitting on spring mounts (bolted to the floor) to knock down the noise through the floor. It will jiggle a little, but it does keep the noise in the room while stopping the walk. Be sure to use a loop of copper or a flex line to reduce vibration into wall mounted feed lines.
Hi Mr. Carlson, great video on how to evaluate and repair a mechanical device!
As an aside, to control the heat and eliminate water buildup in the tank to make the air 'dry' you should add copper pipe from the pressure outlet to the tank inlet. Perhaps around 6 ea 8' sticks. It will require the appropriate number of reducers, tee's, 90 degree elbows and short connector pieces with drain valves will remove the heat and condense the water vapor so it can be removed from the system. This will not only prevent internal tank rust it will give 'dry' air so you can avoid fish eye's in any paint you spray.
Lol just as I finished typing that the original pulley had a fan and your original doesn't when you started explaining how you were going to solve that problem. Very nice.
Michael Lloyd Thanks for the comment Michael!
Man! Mr. Carlson! DUDE! Amazing build bro! I was thinking about doing something like that for my Harbor Freight Compressor when my Fan blade broke, but I was able to order one from Ebay and make it fit. But I was thinking about the electrical fan, but I did not have anything like this box to use. THIS is amazing!
I was thinking of using just a simple 12v circuit that dims car interior lights, but I found the fan on Ebay, so COOL!.
Great job Mr. Carlson!
Thats a Home Depot compressor manufactured for them by Campbell Hausfield. It may be loud. but nowhere as much as an oiless one. I added a digital drain devise, its vents the drain automatically, every 45 minutes for a few seconds. Keeps the tank from rusting out and always charged up, ready for use. Nice job on the timer circuit!
This is a brilliant idea.
You could extend it to also make an intercooler on the pipe between the pump and tank.
I have a 3x120V unit that was used in top of a rack, that will come in use now.
Thanks for this video.
Greetings Mr. Carlson: Same thing I do 2 my stuff. Ppl think I get bored and re-engineer stuff. A few things. 1) Try springs between the legs and plates. 2) I would have the control box under or on the fan bracket. However, U have Ur reasons. 3) In the box I saw a yellow wire by the triac tab then turns along the case. I hope U isolated and secured it from vibration. A few other little things however not significant. Good job tho. Thx 4 the time and effort.
You are successful due to your complete attention to detail, even in such minor things like a smudge on the paint. I am the same way and possibly even worse, since I would have made a set of labels on the LED lid with operation descriptions of each LED, for the next person to ever use it. As a computer engineer/programmer, you should be like that -- though too many sloppy implementations exist I have unfortunately found -- since the computer has no tolerance of mistakes and you need to know what you did if you ever in the future have to change something (Why did I do that? CRASH! Oh, now I remember...).
You mentioned that vibration can pull component leads out of the solder joints and that some silicon can be used to prevent that. Certainly lead pull out can occur if the component has a lever action such as happens with capacitors having bottom mounted leads. However, there is another vibration problem that must be considered. If a component is top heavy and has long enough leads to prevent any lever action, then the leads can break due to bending stress at the solder joint. Most leads have very little springiness. That means it is easy to exceed the elastic limit of leads due to vibration and eventually that vibration will harden and break those leads. Again silicon can be used to prevent components from moving (in relation to the circuit board).
Great project! I wish I had 1/10th of your knowledge and talent!
That repair is WAY cooler and worth much more that that compressor is, and I thought I went overboard. :)
+wgenerotzky
Thanks for your kind comment!
I recently had to work on a scanner that I have here. The scanner is a radio shack pro-2005. Recently the audio went out. What it was doing is every time a transmission came over the speaker it was all garbled and muffled. So after opening up the case I found the problem by sight. The audio section has a 25v 2200uf capacitor that controls the audio section and powers the speaker. Well upon inspection I found the capacitors top bulged so I desolidered it from the board and replaced it with a 50v 2200uf capacitor and it is back in operation again and the audio is as clear as a bell.
I'm glad this did not start out complicated! Good job.
Always nice to see your videos! A truck stop is a great place to get rubber mud flaps. They make great work bench/ equipment protectors, and can be cut to any size for cheap isolators or bushings. Many truck shops throw these away! Also, to power led(s) I use a .3 uF polypropylene capacitor in series with a 1k resistor and a reverse bias diode to protect the led from excessive reverse voltage across it instead of a large power resistor. Pretty easy circuit with no heat. I'm not sure how well that would play with your circuit, but there is less "wasted" power. I'm curious of your or anyone else's opinion if this is a safe or good option.
You will help your compressors performance if you can fabricate some cooling fins for the copper pipe. Good idea to provide a cooling fan there too
I have a 30 gallon Craftsman oil-less compressor that I bought cheap 35 years ago. I use it all the time and I can't believe how well is still works. Made in USA in the good old days.
Mr. Carlson, you have made a smart improvement in your compressor, I would like to suggest another that is also very useful. Compressors have the bad habit of ingesting air with humidity, in fact, the two go together. Once they reach the reservoir and cool a little, the water will condensate and accumulate at the bottom of the reservoir. Don’t believe it? Open the drain at the bottom of the reservoir, every reservoir has one. If it has never been open, it will probably be clogged, depressurize the tank, remove the valve and clean it. (A lot of water will come out!)
This water will, over time, decrease the useful volume of the reservoir and will slowly corrode the hull of the tank.
My suggestion would be to place a solenoid valve at the bottom drain, with a small orifice restrictor to slow the flow. Either time-activated (easy to do) or level-activated, which is very hard to do, but it’s the option that provides better control.
I would go for the easiest option, 2 or 3 one-second pulses per 5 or 10 minutes waiting period, while the compressor is being used. I believe that after using it, you shut off the power to the compressor. If it is powered the entire time, the waiting period could be of one or two hours between pulses.
Never drill or weld the hull of the tank!
I Hope you enjoy
Check with a truck parts house for what are called "spitter" valves [automatic air drain valves]. They are used to drain the air tanks when the compressor cycles, a real necessity on an air brake system esp. in winter. The last thing you want is ice in your braking system, know from experience! THE COLONEL
I Bolted mine to the floor through isolation blocks that i bought at an HVAC suplly that are used in furnace/air conditioner installation. really cut down the noise. I built a small closet for it lined with rockwool and that really helps too.
I know this old video, is there anything you cannot do Paul?
You bring things back better than they were!!!
Wow, this should be patented and mass produced. Great job...
Nice bird in the background!! Have a black 98 myself they are really getting rare enjoy it m8!
I have the same compressor (and sand blaster too), I sat mine on Hokey Pucks. It does the trick but I like your idea better. Awesome videos. Thanks for all the great upgrades on so many of your videos. Ian...
Thanks!
Since the nuts are just hand tight throw an extra nut on top to lock them in place if they start vibrating loose.
Those self binding couplers are awesome.
Your replacement pulley is called a "taper-lock" pulley Paul. Also, is not unusual to have a lock screw through the pulley at the key. I've overhauled thousands of industrial motors in my time and a set screw is very common in standard pulleys. Taper locks tend to get expensive, but have fitted plenty of couplings that are of that type. One thing I liked about taper locks was we didn't need pulling gear to remove them, just remove the three, in large couplings cases, and set them into the splitting screw holes .
They are great pulleys. Compressor is still working good today.
@@MrCarlsonsLab Several of us who worked at an electric motor repair company stated they should be made mandatory. I've witnessed several standard couplings being burned off shafts of large motors because pulling gear and oxy torches couldn't shift them. And we used 40 ton hydraulic pulling gear too!!
Thanks a bunch for all the videos man.
No Problem!
Mine is the twin with an 80 gallon tank, outstanding addition to any shop.
They do eat valves, mine did it right out of the gate, it was a warranty repair and it's been going for about 10 years now, no issues.
For under $400 bucks it's a great value, even better, my ex bought it before she lowered the boom on me.
It came with me, along with anything and everything I could carry. After all, she got the house and I got the tools.
That house would never have been finished without me, so, I don't feel bad at all.
nice solution to the problem. I am but a humble mechanic, I simply would have wired a common
wire in and connected the fan par to the motor contacts. A delay relay to make it run longer if wanted.
I like people who take care of their tools!
Super great project. I have a 115 v squirrel cage blower to assist cooling mine even though the fan pulley is still in place.
I'm chuckling a bit. I had a very strong feeling you were going to touch that paint up. After seeing several of your video's I just knew you wouldn't leave that smudge on there. I'm much the same way. Great video, lots of fun and cool things. Questions: any pictures after you got everything moved around? Perhaps there's a video that shows the compressor in place? I'd really like to see how it turned out? Did the neighbor take the old compressor? Thanks.
55:05 Can I be your neighbour too haha, great attention to detail!!
I use the "clear" urethane coating from CRC. I'll sign and date the board before coating it, and it looks "pretty". I've got a case of that red stuff as well, but it reminds me of corona dope.
I have been thoroughly enjoying binge watching your videos. I enjoy doing things like this and really want to get into doing circuit boards like you did here and in a lot of your videos. I also want to get into repairing guitar amps and radios. I have a quick question for you. I am recently retired from the military where I was an aircraft mechanic. With my interest in this sort of things, do you think it would be a good idea to get into electrical engineering in college with my GI Bill? I am 40 years old, or do you think it is too late? Thanks for any advice you could give.
Thanks for the reply, I was merely referring to the power for the 120v fan when I mentioned the resistor, would then not need the split supply with a neutral. In the UK our domestic supplies are 240v single phase so a slightly different situation. I understand that you want the cooling fan to "run on" after the compressor has stopped, but I am not convinced of the advantage of doing that.
Your PCB making is beautiful, that has been a drama with some of my projects, the last PCBs I did were a complex photographic process and ultimately UV exposed...
I was very interested in your tinning solution, I have previously used a saturated silver solution to flash silver onto the copper, your process looks preferable.
David Lisney Hi David, When sandblasting, the compressor cycles a lot. The head temperature will rise quite dramatically with the stock fan system. This new fan system merely allows the fan to keep cooling while the compressor stops between charge cycles. Since the new pulley has no fan, this was a perfect excuse to improve the system. To give you an idea of how hot that pump gets, If the tank is empty, and I charge it up to it's specified PSI, you could melt a glue stick on the top of the tank... Not the head, the tank. That's how hot the air is. So you can imagine how hot that pump gets under a duty cycle.
something to be proud of, yr garage looks like my entire house :)
I Have A Car Just Like Your's / Trans Am GT Green Color & with LT 4 Set Up .. Gear Head & Tech. As Well.... Good Fab.Job As You Do Always
Scrolling through your videos and came across this one. Nice mod to the tool. My small Craftsman compressor has cooling fins on the copper tube from the pump to the tank. Have no idea if it’s worth doing. 🤷♂️
Great find. Knowing from your blogs you live in the line of fire earthquaking Pacific rim, I would consider using seismic strapping especially made for water heaters found at any plumbing supply.
Hi James, I think if we had a quake that could topple that tank over, that compressor would be the least of my worries.
Currently looking to buy an older model of this husky 60 gal, checking if the problems it may have are gonna be too much of a headache. Thanks for the vid!
I would have installed a temperature sensor on the cylinder head and used proportional control so that the fan runs only when needed at the necessary speed. ;)
first time viewer enjoyed the video very much. if I might make suggestion, would be to take the copper lead from the tank and allow the compressor to cool into 2 inch copper pipe fasten to your wall behind the compressor on vertical run then into the tank. great job
+Mert Silliker
Thanks for the suggestions Mert!
Nice project!
Hindsight, as they say, makes even a fool wise. Playing the fool, I would use a step-down transformer (240->120) to power the fan. This would bring you down to a single (green - for 'good') indicator - Fan ON - leaving off the other LED's as unneeded.
I also would have wired the fan in parallel off of both the compressor and a thermostat mounted on the head. The fan would be guaranteed to run when the compressor was on (for fail safe) and as needed when the temp was high.
For some added 'wow' factor, change the thermostat to a thermistor with associated circuitry.
Thanks!
I would use 3 big stiff springs on bottom & it will be more quiet & help with vibration
congrat very clean, net and handy
better than the original design
i hope husky is looking at this video and get some clues
well done
Fistful Pennies Thanks for the comment!
Paul don't forget a remote water drain for the bottom of the tank.
As careful as you are, I'm surprised that you didn't put a thermal cut off on the head, In case the fan fails. With all that vibration and noise, if the fan dies, you may not notice that the fan is not working, yet all your led's would show normal!
You didn't remind us to get our ears on. We had to pause the video and run to get them. LOL
Nice work as always.
I mounted my 60 gal tank on casters. Cuts down on the vibration and I can roll it around to wherever I want (not that I ever do!)
Pretty scary if it ever tips over!
Good job. Well done.
Thanks!
Brilliant! Thank you for the videos.
If you hook the old tank up with the new tank you'll increase your volume which will help when running a blast cabinet
Wow most of us would just mount the 120v fan and wire it into one of the Line going to the motor and the neutral so it turns on/off with the motor.
Love the video. You ever consider a 2 second purge valve on the bottom of the tank for water buildup?
Put a note on the inside of the belt cover w/ directions for removing the taper. I run a saw mill. I have had to buy several pulleys when millwrights tried to remove these with pullers. Seriously, union millwrights who never heard of a taper collar. Must be what you feel like when you open some of your home repaired radios. Seriously though. It is an expensive repair when someone mushrooms the shaft on a $75K twin screw compressor.
That is standard taper lock. There are a few different sizes such as SD SDS and so forth.
Another great video! What's the story on that large electronics enclosure? It looked like a large broadcast transmitter. Very cool.
+Thema inproblem There are two of them, and they are broadcast transmitters. Thanks for your comment!
I'm looking forward to the PC board fab/construction video/s...have you ever tried soldering paste and a heat-gun for the SMT's...? And that taper-lock hub on the new pulley....they're great, I've used 100's of them.
+Doug Ankrum
Hi Doug, did you see this video: th-cam.com/video/au2ba5gWLWk/w-d-xo.html and here is another: th-cam.com/video/Fimf3jypV_o/w-d-xo.html
+Mr Carlson's Lab ...Ok, thanks...!
I like the fan you added. but the old pulley is usually a weighted balanced flywheel or should be anyways to reduce the vibration. for the fix i would have just machined the slots to take a slightly bigger key and re drilled and tapped the set screw. also would have drilled and taped for a second set screw to actually contact the shaft.
Hi Coty. The keyway was hammered out (kind of "smeared off") in one direction. The bore would have to be drilled and shimmed to use the original pulley. The keyway on the compressor shaft was also damaged, so this tapered shim style pulley was the best option. Thanks for your comment!
Very cool project, nice fit and finish for a 'utilitarian' fix too. My quick fixes make Mad Max look like MIT.
Thanks for the comment Nick!
You sir are a perfectionist :-)
It looks great and works fine but I bet that you did even modified your dog with a circuit up his butt and bells an whistles on him to LOL
smbrob LOL, Well... no dog, but maybe the cat :^) My other half brought home a white Himalayan Flame Tip, two Christmas's ago. Ever since, our cloths are as fuzzy as the cat. Really cute cat though. Bright blue eyes, and his ears look like little flames. Quite the personality as well.
The "S & S" sticker makes it a winner!
EdWatts LOL! Oops, covered it up with the new box.
+Mr Carlson's Lab
I would have used LED's of different colors for the four indicators. :-)
I seem to have been watching your videos for 36 hours now. Is that a binge?
Perfectly normal. I've done it many times to pick up on those special tips.
I'm kind'a surprised that you're using the breaker as a switch for the compressor. The reason I say this is, using that breaker and snapping it off and on could weaken it. I've thought and think that a switch and relay could control that circuit better. When I had a shop, all of the machinery was run thru a heavy duty switch so that the kids couldn't use them. The switch was out of the line of sight so only me and my wife knew where it was. all the feeds were in the ceiling or rafters if you will to keep all the hookups clear of possible blockage with projects. BTW, I've always been furstrated by the fact of a current interrupt and the clock on the microwave has to be reset. You'd think that a bigger cap. would fix that.
Being from earthquake country (California) I cringe seeing all you equipment stacked up(and your compressor not bolted down) like that. How great it must be to not have to worry about having the earth shake all your stuff onto the ground :)
AndTheWinnerIs... why anyone would chose to live in that hell hole is beyond my scope of understanding. I don’t think I can think of any positive reason. If I was in your shoes i’d be on the the next train out, like so many already have. If I was the president I’d give it back to Mexico. I was born there, but when I was old enough to reason, I left. I’ve got relatives still there but I’ll never go back to visit. If nothing else, I’ve got opinions, LOL
WOW! who hurt you?
I have been in Southern California 66 years and love it here ! Not to hot and not to cold and best of all no Humidity ! Earthquakes are very rare and a piece of cake !
OMG, you are also a gear head too !
You're awesome. That's all.
I don't care for the way you pronounce adhesive though...
Edited because I meant to say "...you pronounce adhesive..." not "...to pronounce adhesive..."
Thanks!
I figured as much, but I don't like it. LOL
Why is it so easy to get carried away with air compressors?
***** Probably because were guys... LOL.... It has pistons..... and oil..... Ugg smash :^)
Yep. Feel like Tim the tool man Taylor! Picked up a red 60 gallon Husky and my wife says "Is that thing Big enough! ?" I said "Well no."
More is better. The truck shop I work at has two large horizontal two phase compressors. Been running different 110 volt air compressors on my own time and they are so limited. I'm so glad to have a 60 gallon, but sanding and cutting could benefit from more.
Because it´s Mr. Carlson ;)
They are never big enough!
I wish I had friends who'd toss $600 compressors my way ;) What in the world do you do for a living? By those rolls and rolls of SMT and the fact that you know Nichicon (or was it Nippon Chemicon you mentioned, either way) by name, I'd bet money you've done EE/CE professionally (likely as a design engineer?), but you slip-of-the-tongue'd a micrometer mention as casually as you mention 0805 parts, which makes me think you know your way around a mill or lathe pretty well... very curious... either way great video Paul! How's the build holding up a year later?
+wither8
Hi. Compressor works great. The little box is on (has power applied to it) all year round. I will save the biography for a video in the future. Thanks for the kind words.... Merry Christmas.
Thanks again. I really enjoy your videos.
Great video, nice fix on the compressor. By the way whats with all tek scopes in the garage? Greg
Gregory West Future video's :^)
What's up with that pulley set screw? Almost like it was designed to cause a failure.
I keep a small, disused toaster oven on hand for baking small parts I paint with black-wrinkle. I've become a fan of baking my paint jobs (when they'll fit into the little oven). I wonder if that would have helped you out with the soft clear on the box?
Pulleys with "crooked" set screws are often done like that because the pulley manufacturer didn't want to buy the _long_ drills (& tap extensions) otherwise required to install the set screw perpendicular to the shaft the pulley is mounted on. I didn't know that myself until it was explained & demonstrated by (at least) one of the TH-cam Machinists that I respect.
I'm not a Machinist, but have worked with many fantastic Machinists over my career and asked a lot of questions about why they did certain things -- they taught me a lot. I can usually tell when a "Machinist" is doing something wrong or that I know a better way of doing it -- like many professions, there are many ways that Machinists are able to do the same job, based on their experience or equipment/tooling limitations. I'm kind of a home shop Machinist, along with a being home electronics wannabe (which is why I'm working my way through all of Paul's videos and downloading the ones that seem to apply to what I fool with: late '60s & 70's minicomputers with toggle switches, flashing lights, and magnetic core memory ;).
The original flywheel was the external balancer to the compressor to take the 'walk' away. The new one has no such feature.
I know the flywheel on my Speedaire looks like the same type and it has balancing holes drilled in around the edge.
Fancy fan controller.
Pretty amazing that I have a 35 year old compressor that STILL works without fail and has never been rebuilt. It's a Black Max from the 80's. Compressors have been made for DECADES, yet Husky comes out with something that fails. All they had to do was COPY what has been working for DECADES and they couldn't do it.
Would it be effective cooling the air after it is compressed? Then the air would enter the container cooled and thus taking lesser space. Also a funny thing is that someone I know uses 110V fans on a 230V grid. So It takes half of the amperage, doing the same job. Running for years and up till today not fried. But also very effective cooling 4 the compressor itself. P.s. can you put some counterweight on the flywheel, to make it more stable? Like they do when balancing car wheels. And how did u do these printings on the controller box? That REALLY lovely handy-works!!! Namasté. :D
Pull the drain plug. And fish a cheap endoscope camera inside. See how much rust is inside. When the tank blows. It will put a great big hole in the wall.
Clean work. Interesting stuff.
You may try to laser etch uv coating on copper pcb. in one step you have your pcb.
Hi . you could try putting some lead flashing under the motor mounting bracket and quieten down that vibe . Regards .
How about mounting a thermister on the head to monitor the head temp, when cool, shuts the fan off?
That would work.
I sure would like to see an LM335 temp sensor used to control the fan according to cylinder head temp. Otherwise that is excellent work for an open loop control circuit.
I wish you would have showed us the welding setup and some of the welding. Could you weld that nice with only a FLUX Welder?
Very cool build. Not sure the antique white goes with the big red tank though. Maybe I skipped the part where you say painting it red like the tank would make it sort of disappear. Another idea I just had is to make your box look like an old guitar pedal.
The old MXR Compressor guitar pedal was red and might be the right scheme for the project. :-)
Krang Gangs Thanks for the comment! Those decals you see are small stickers that I printed. The only reason I went with the cream color is so the decals would show on the box. I would have prefered red or black as a background. I guess the cream color contrast's the red led's too..... so not so bad :^)