You can also cut the Tenon for the dovetail dado with that template. You just turn it around so that the tenon is facing the front of the jig. and leave the bit height set to where it is in the dado cut. and adjust up or down in depth for tighter or looser joint. Although the use of the router table makes for many more possibilities such as the way you demonstrated. Nice build too btw.
Do you just align the face of the template with the center of the end grain on your tenon? Or does it involve excruciating and precise measurements? The instructions are awful.
@@kirbybowerman7454 How to answer your question so that the answer is not complicated. First let me correct my original post. The gentleman doing the demonstration and or example of how too, actually has his template backwards hence I originally said to cut the tenon for the dovetail with that template turn it around. Now that that is out of the way. Used in this instruction guide Porter Cable 4210/4212/4216 base , Dado Template / Dovetail Router Bit 43776PC and or equal/ 3/4 inch O.D. Template Guide PN 42040/ Template Guide locking nut PN 42239/ All these come with the jig if purchased new. Other Aftermarket router bits and template guide bushing can be used. There are two parts to making a sliding dovetail with the Porter Cable 4210/4212/4216 jig assembly with the sliding dovetail template in either regular or mini. The first part is the dado board. 1st). Determine where you want the dado and the size of the Tenon board you are going to use for the sliding part comes into play here. More on that later. Board size will determine bit size to a point. (Example 3/4 inch tenon board and 3/4 inch dado board for this instruction.) 2nd). mark the center line of the dado on the dado board (female part of the dovetail sliding joint) (Going to use 3/4 inch board for example.) 3rd). Make visible marks 3/8 inch from the center line in multiple places for alignment. 4th). Then insert the dado board under the template with the marks up facing you . Now the 3/8 inch marks need to be aligned to the edge of the template slot. Depending on how you marked either top down or bottom up ( this is where people mess up) Always orient your material from either the top down or the bottom up when marking and stick with that method) Then ensuring that before any cutting the template is laying flat and tight to the board all the way across and that the board itself is tight in the jig. And is still aligned. 5th). Set router bit depth either using the temple's provided slots at the end A,B,C. 6th). With the Router at the correct bit speed, route with the temple guide bushing in the slot left to rightly slowly ( Good rule of thumb here is to use a straight router bit to hog out the material then follow up with dovetail to make the final passes making the dovetail in the process. Part ONE is done. Part two. The Tenon Board. 3/4 inch for this instruction. This board too has to have centering marks to help with alignment in the jig. Very easy 3/4 inch board center is 3/8 inch. Make your marks if marking from left side all marks should be done from that side vise verse. Pick a method that works for you and stay with it. Prevents alignment issues. 1st). Leaving the template in the same position slot facing forward place a scrap board of the same thickness 3/4 inch as the working material under the template where the dado board was. This is going to be a backer board for the Tenon Board. 2nd). Insert the Tenon Board so that the Center of the board is on the outside edge of the dovetail dado slot and butts up to bottom of the template ensuring that the backer aka scrap board is touching the tenon board. (This serves the purpose of keeping any bowing from the weight of the router from occurring with the template) also ensure that the template is laying flat along length of the Tenon board. Ensure that it is clamped tightly into place 3rd). With the same router bit set at same speed with the depth the exact same as used on the dado board. Make a Climb Cut Right to left along the front edge of the template slot. (This is done to prevent tear out) This can be dangerous so use caution and do not rush the cut maintain control of the router as it will try to pull itself through the material. Now make a left to right cut cleaning up the cut just made. Turn off the router when this step is done. 4th) Now flip the board 180 degrees keeping the same end up the cut end should now be facing the backer board. 5th). Repeat all steps in Step 3 Climb cut right to left then cut left to right. Turn off router. Remove material from jig test fit in the dado. Porter Cable has a newer manual out that has very good pictures and better instruction in the manual for the various 4000 series jig this is what it is labeled as PORTER-CABLE Dovetail jig 4212_1_Instruction_Manual_EN_A24602_4210_4212_4216 and a supplemental www.portercable.com/GLOBALBOM/QU/4216/1/Instruction_Manual/EN/EnA06477.pdf www.toolservicenet.com/dewalt/en/c//p/4212_1 There are two type version of the PC dovetail jig type 1 and type 2 and three in the series 4210/4212/4216 don't let the different number confuse you the base is the same each number represented the templates that came with the unit. 4210 was basic one template 4212 had two templates and 4216 had three templates also there are mini templates for doing small projects such as jewelry boxes or small drawers in less than 1/2 inch material. Hope this answered the posed question sorry for the length of the post. Edit : More on it later part almost forgot You can use a 1/2 inch, 5/8 inch board for your tenon board with a 3/4 inch dado board or a 1 inch board as you become more experienced with the jig. The tenon board will dictate the size and degree of the dovetail bit. I purchased a complete Incra dovetail bit set from Sommerfeld tools it can also be purchased from Whiteside Router bits same Incra kit size wise for the bits. Since I upgraded to a Incra Router Table my Porter Cable is used for drawers mainly now because it is fast and easy to do on the jig. Although I have every template for the Porter Cable it is my backup or go to.
I ordered mine today. Your video made me want to buy one. Thank u for the content u post. I was wanting one. But never pulled the trigger to add it to my woodworking tools.
Thank you. Glad you liked the video. I have a few other videos on this jig as well. You may like the one on through dovetails. Thanks for watching. Hope you subscribed
If you have the 4210/ 4212 you too can have the 4216 by simply buying the Porter Cable template guides, here are all the guide templates first two come with the 4212. Half-Blind/Sliding Dovetail Template (Model 4211), Through Dovetail/Box Joint Template (Model 4213), Miniature Dovetail Template (Model 4215), The 4 Router Bits - Models 43776PC, 43743PC, 43014PC, 43777PC used with the 4216 or use better router bits from Amana , White Side, ETC. Also if you have lost or miss placed your guide bushings ( for the Router Base) here is the Porter Cable Numbers for the 4 Template Guides - Models 42037, 42040, 42046, 42054. I own the 4212 picked it up used for 60 dollars. I now have all the guides and if you should purchase the mini (4215) make sure it comes with the grey offset plates for the left and right side of the jig as many people sell the template on the cheap and do not include the offset plates. happy dovetailing and box jointing. The Porter Cable once dialed in makes easy work out of making dovetails and box joints.
I just recently found your channel. I am very new to wood working and have alot of free time now that I find myself on disabilty due to some medical stuff. and do not have the patience to learn hand cut dovetails. I really like that PC jig. If I could ever afford one I will totally increase my repertoire in my projects. Awesome videos keep up the great content
Great video Tracy. I feel like an idiot. LOL. I’ve had my PC jig 11 years and never gave that slot any attention. I may need to go back and read the manual. The cabinet looks awesome
Good morning; I made 4 boxes last night with through dovetails and they came out perfect (with your help)! Now I am trying to do some sliding dovetail shelves/divider in the boxes and am practicing first (on scrap) and following your video, but you used a router table for the tenons…I don’t have one. If using the same jig (porter Cable 4216) to make the tenons, my tenons came out too narrow🤷 The tail groove is perfect but the pin is too narrow; do I need to change the bit or collet to a smaller one or adjust the vertically placed board somehow closer to the front of the jig…or something else?
I am glad you got your boxes to come out perfect. I'm not really sure what your asking about making the tenons/dovetail on the jig for a sliding dovetail connection. The slot in the template, like I did in the video for sliding dovetails, use the dovetail bit and make the pin side. To make the long dovetail/tenon you will need a router table to do this effectively. If you dont have a router table you can make a temporary table and fence. Maybe use a piece of 1/2 plywood or mdf for the router table top. Drill a hole in the board for you bit to come through and mount your router to the board. You can then turn this upside down on almost any surface such as clamping it to the edge of your work bench. You can then make you a fence out of almost any straight piece of material. You can screw your fence to your router table top on one side so that it will pivet and clamp it on the other end to adjust the fence and lock it in place. You really need that router table even if you have to make one out of some scraps. You can cut those long dovetail joints on the tablesaw by tilting the blade but it does require a lot of patience and does promote some risks as well. Hope this was helpful
Thanx much for the speedy reply. I used the dado slot to make dado/grooves (like you showed in your video) and that worked fine, but since the jig is stamped/printed showing “cut tenon on edge” it seems you should be able to make the tenons/pins. I guess a better way of asking is would the does vertical board (tenon end) need to be set back a bit so as to not take too much off leading to a too small/narrow pin? I wish I could just send a picture of what I’m talking about🤨
I know the tenon slot you are talking about. Honestly I have never used that. I think that is used for making a tenon on the end of a board to fit into a dado cut by the other slot. I can't honestly say that will work for sliding dovetails because I never have used that. I have made a lot of sliding dovetails like I showed in the video but I have always used the router table to cut those tails. I will mess around with that and try to figure it out. When I have time that is. But if you get it to work please let me know. I just find it easy to do using the router table
Yes, I was able to use the router jig itself to cut my tenons and they fit perfectly! The problem with the instructions provided is that it doesn’t say where to place the upright/vertical board (in relation to the dado slot) exactly to end up with a 1/2 inch tenon to match the 1/2 inch dado. I did some measuring and practice cuts and eventually figured out if you place the back side of your board in line exactly with the front/forward edge of the dado slot the router with the 3/4 inch collet (same as used to make the dado) will take off/form a 1/8 inch angled cut (then flip the board over and do the other side) it matches the dado perfectly!
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your explanation of setting the cutter bits depth was most helpful, thanks greatly.
Thank you. Glad I could help
You can also cut the Tenon for the dovetail dado with that template. You just turn it around so that the tenon is facing the front of the jig. and leave the bit height set to where it is in the dado cut. and adjust up or down in depth for tighter or looser joint. Although the use of the router table makes for many more possibilities such as the way you demonstrated. Nice build too btw.
Do you just align the face of the template with the center of the end grain on your tenon? Or does it involve excruciating and precise measurements? The instructions are awful.
@@kirbybowerman7454 How to answer your question so that the answer is not complicated. First let me correct my original post. The gentleman doing the demonstration and or example of how too, actually has his template backwards hence I originally said to cut the tenon for the dovetail with that template turn it around. Now that that is out of the way.
Used in this instruction guide Porter Cable 4210/4212/4216 base , Dado Template / Dovetail Router Bit 43776PC and or equal/ 3/4 inch O.D. Template Guide PN 42040/ Template Guide locking nut PN 42239/ All these come with the jig if purchased new. Other Aftermarket router bits and template guide bushing can be used.
There are two parts to making a sliding dovetail with the Porter Cable 4210/4212/4216 jig assembly with the sliding dovetail template in either regular or mini. The first part is the dado board. 1st). Determine where you want the dado and the size of the Tenon board you are going to use for the sliding part comes into play here. More on that later. Board size will determine bit size to a point. (Example 3/4 inch tenon board and 3/4 inch dado board for this instruction.) 2nd). mark the center line of the dado on the dado board (female part of the dovetail sliding joint) (Going to use 3/4 inch board for example.) 3rd). Make visible marks 3/8 inch from the center line in multiple places for alignment. 4th). Then insert the dado board under the template with the marks up facing you . Now the 3/8 inch marks need to be aligned to the edge of the template slot. Depending on how you marked either top down or bottom up ( this is where people mess up) Always orient your material from either the top down or the bottom up when marking and stick with that method) Then ensuring that before any cutting the template is laying flat and tight to the board all the way across and that the board itself is tight in the jig. And is still aligned. 5th). Set router bit depth either using the temple's provided slots at the end A,B,C. 6th). With the Router at the correct bit speed, route with the temple guide bushing in the slot left to rightly slowly ( Good rule of thumb here is to use a straight router bit to hog out the material then follow up with dovetail to make the final passes making the dovetail in the process. Part ONE is done.
Part two. The Tenon Board. 3/4 inch for this instruction. This board too has to have centering marks to help with alignment in the jig. Very easy 3/4 inch board center is 3/8 inch. Make your marks if marking from left side all marks should be done from that side vise verse. Pick a method that works for you and stay with it. Prevents alignment issues.
1st). Leaving the template in the same position slot facing forward place a scrap board of the same thickness 3/4 inch as the working material under the template where the dado board was. This is going to be a backer board for the Tenon Board. 2nd). Insert the Tenon Board so that the Center of the board is on the outside edge of the dovetail dado slot and butts up to bottom of the template ensuring that the backer aka scrap board is touching the tenon board. (This serves the purpose of keeping any bowing from the weight of the router from occurring with the template) also ensure that the template is laying flat along length of the Tenon board. Ensure that it is clamped tightly into place 3rd). With the same router bit set at same speed with the depth the exact same as used on the dado board. Make a Climb Cut Right to left along the front edge of the template slot. (This is done to prevent tear out) This can be dangerous so use caution and do not rush the cut maintain control of the router as it will try to pull itself through the material. Now make a left to right cut cleaning up the cut just made. Turn off the router when this step is done. 4th) Now flip the board 180 degrees keeping the same end up the cut end should now be facing the backer board. 5th). Repeat all steps in Step 3 Climb cut right to left then cut left to right. Turn off router. Remove material from jig test fit in the dado.
Porter Cable has a newer manual out that has very good pictures and better instruction in the manual for the various 4000 series jig this is what it is labeled as PORTER-CABLE Dovetail jig 4212_1_Instruction_Manual_EN_A24602_4210_4212_4216 and a supplemental www.portercable.com/GLOBALBOM/QU/4216/1/Instruction_Manual/EN/EnA06477.pdf
www.toolservicenet.com/dewalt/en/c//p/4212_1
There are two type version of the PC dovetail jig type 1 and type 2 and three in the series 4210/4212/4216 don't let the different number confuse you the base is the same each number represented the templates that came with the unit. 4210 was basic one template 4212 had two templates and 4216 had three templates also there are mini templates for doing small projects such as jewelry boxes or small drawers in less than 1/2 inch material. Hope this answered the posed question sorry for the length of the post.
Edit : More on it later part almost forgot You can use a 1/2 inch, 5/8 inch board for your tenon board with a 3/4 inch dado board or a 1 inch board as you become more experienced with the jig. The tenon board will dictate the size and degree of the dovetail bit. I purchased a complete Incra dovetail bit set from Sommerfeld tools it can also be purchased from Whiteside Router bits same Incra kit size wise for the bits. Since I upgraded to a Incra Router Table my Porter Cable is used for drawers mainly now because it is fast and easy to do on the jig. Although I have every template for the Porter Cable it is my backup or go to.
Great Tracy, handy to know what that slot does, that will be an additional bonus.
Most people never give any thought to that slot. It's actually for dados but works great for dovetail slots
I ordered mine today. Your video made me want to buy one. Thank u for the content u post. I was wanting one. But never pulled the trigger to add it to my woodworking tools.
Thank you. Glad you liked the video. I have a few other videos on this jig as well. You may like the one on through dovetails. Thanks for watching. Hope you subscribed
Yet another great one! Thank you! So glad I found your channel!
Thanks. Hope you subscribed
@@hammerdownwoodworkingtracy3679 Yep, sure did!
Dang man! I'm learning some stuff from you today. Thanks! 😀
That was my goal. Makes me glad I could help
This just changed the game with the 4216, great content and sure looking forward to your next Porter Cable tips & tricks. I feel enriched. Thank you!!
Thank you! And thanks for watching. I am glad I could help
If you have the 4210/ 4212 you too can have the 4216 by simply buying the Porter Cable template guides, here are all the guide templates first two come with the 4212. Half-Blind/Sliding Dovetail Template (Model 4211), Through Dovetail/Box Joint Template (Model 4213), Miniature Dovetail Template (Model 4215), The 4 Router Bits - Models 43776PC, 43743PC, 43014PC, 43777PC used with the 4216 or use better router bits from Amana , White Side, ETC. Also if you have lost or miss placed your guide bushings ( for the Router Base) here is the Porter Cable Numbers for the 4 Template Guides - Models 42037, 42040, 42046, 42054. I own the 4212 picked it up used for 60 dollars. I now have all the guides and if you should purchase the mini (4215) make sure it comes with the grey offset plates for the left and right side of the jig as many people sell the template on the cheap and do not include the offset plates. happy dovetailing and box jointing. The Porter Cable once dialed in makes easy work out of making dovetails and box joints.
I just recently found your channel. I am very new to wood working and have alot of free time now that I find myself on disabilty due to some medical stuff. and do not have the patience to learn hand cut dovetails. I really like that PC jig. If I could ever afford one I will totally increase my repertoire in my projects. Awesome videos keep up the great content
Thank you.
Great video Tracy. I feel like an idiot. LOL. I’ve had my PC jig 11 years and never gave that slot any attention. I may need to go back and read the manual. The cabinet looks awesome
Thanks Scott. It's a very useful jig for those rush orders
Good video. I have this dovetail jig and have never used that slot to cut with.. Very helpful.
Thank you. Glad it helps
Good video!
Good morning; I made 4 boxes last night with through dovetails and they came out perfect (with your help)!
Now I am trying to do some sliding dovetail shelves/divider in the boxes and am practicing first (on scrap) and following your video, but you used a router table for the tenons…I don’t have one. If using the same jig (porter Cable 4216) to make the tenons, my tenons came out too narrow🤷
The tail groove is perfect but the pin is too narrow; do I need to change the bit or collet to a smaller one or adjust the vertically placed board somehow closer to the front of the jig…or something else?
I am glad you got your boxes to come out perfect. I'm not really sure what your asking about making the tenons/dovetail on the jig for a sliding dovetail connection. The slot in the template, like I did in the video for sliding dovetails, use the dovetail bit and make the pin side. To make the long dovetail/tenon you will need a router table to do this effectively. If you dont have a router table you can make a temporary table and fence. Maybe use a piece of 1/2 plywood or mdf for the router table top. Drill a hole in the board for you bit to come through and mount your router to the board. You can then turn this upside down on almost any surface such as clamping it to the edge of your work bench. You can then make you a fence out of almost any straight piece of material. You can screw your fence to your router table top on one side so that it will pivet and clamp it on the other end to adjust the fence and lock it in place. You really need that router table even if you have to make one out of some scraps. You can cut those long dovetail joints on the tablesaw by tilting the blade but it does require a lot of patience and does promote some risks as well. Hope this was helpful
Thanx much for the speedy reply. I used the dado slot to make dado/grooves (like you showed in your video) and that worked fine, but since the jig is stamped/printed showing “cut tenon on edge” it seems you should be able to make the tenons/pins.
I guess a better way of asking is would the does vertical board (tenon end) need to be set back a bit so as to not take too much off leading to a too small/narrow pin?
I wish I could just send a picture of what I’m talking about🤨
I know the tenon slot you are talking about. Honestly I have never used that. I think that is used for making a tenon on the end of a board to fit into a dado cut by the other slot. I can't honestly say that will work for sliding dovetails because I never have used that. I have made a lot of sliding dovetails like I showed in the video but I have always used the router table to cut those tails. I will mess around with that and try to figure it out. When I have time that is. But if you get it to work please let me know. I just find it easy to do using the router table
Yes, I was able to use the router jig itself to cut my tenons and they fit perfectly!
The problem with the instructions provided is that it doesn’t say where to place the upright/vertical board (in relation to the dado slot) exactly to end up with a 1/2 inch tenon to match the 1/2 inch dado.
I did some measuring and practice cuts and eventually figured out if you place the back side of your board in line exactly with the front/forward edge of the dado slot the router with the 3/4 inch collet (same as used to make the dado) will take off/form a 1/8 inch angled cut (then flip the board over and do the other side) it matches the dado perfectly!
@michaelroberts2416 That's great! Thanks for letting me know
Nice
Go TRUMP 2024