I work as a handyman on Task Rabbit. I regularly am hired to redo bathtub and kitchen caulking. Regarding the DAP 2 to 6 hour wait time that’s a hard no go for me. Understand that the vast majority of caulking isn’t even in contact with the surface it’s being removed from. Use the tools to take almost all the caulking off, especially the caulk removal tool. It’s pretty good*. After most of the caulk is removed THEN apply caulk remover to get the most critical part, the thin layer of caulking that is actually touching the surface you’re removing it from. For the amount of work shown here after the various removers have been applied it’s a waste of time, effort, and money to apply it on anything other than the final layer. Lastly a shout out to you sir for this excellent side by side comparison! * Don’t use a cheap plastic version. Get the metal. Like in this video. The plastic will go dull really fast and your workload will increase exponentially. Also, while utility knives are useful in this circumstance, a razor scraper (basically a razor blade with a handle on it) is great for the places the knife doesn’t work so well in. You can find them in the paint departments at your local building supply or hardware store.
I’m a professional caulker and you will never see us use caulk remover. It contaminates the substrate and voids the warranty. NEVER USE THEM. For typical sealants around the house all you need is, like you said, a utility knife, razor scraper, and a solvent like acetone or alcohol ( we use MEK, but is hazardous and hard to get a hold of) for final cleaning. And as for “ not in contact” this is largely due to the stupid trend of using soapy water to “ tool “ the joint.
These products are good for DIY where the wait time doesn't matter. Using metal removal tools have the chance of scratching unwanted areas, and the likelihood of that increases if one is doing it for the first time.
As an engineer, this was one of the best - if not THE best training videos I’ve ever seen. The “graphics” were clear and easily understood, the audio was concise, clear, easily heard and understood, the presentation was thorough and captured all the essential steps - nice job! I wish everyone could do this good on TH-cam. High Bar to follow
As a professional caulker you are totally inept as an engineer. All of these products contaminate ANY porous surfaces and will void the warranty in an industrial/ commercial situation and should never be used by consumers
i agree that this was an excellent comparison. Now, based on comments from professionals and homeowners, I believe your rating of Caulk-Be-Gone is #1. That is the homeowner choice as they hae 2+ hours to wait, As being a homeowner, a appreciate this review.
I tried Caulk Be Gone to remove silicone caulk and it definitely helps a lot. Recently, I found a better alternative - Hi-Tech Super Solv. It works on silicone caulk like WD-40 without leaving the undesirable oily film.
I didn’t know caulk remover existed until a week ago when I was at the hardware store buying new caulk. I’m glad I saw your video today. I have textured paint walls surrounding my tub and I don’t want to scrape the wall if I can help it, so this would be a scenario where I’ll try this instead of elbow grease.
Love all your do it you're home repair/fixed videos. I think you are helping many homeowners who sometimes don't know what do or how to do it. When it comes to do it yourself and saving money. I really appreciate your videos specifically the home electric wiring. Thanks 🙏 and may God bless you and your beautiful family. Thanks
Awesome video I'm retired and I just bought a house 6 months ago and am going to do a lot of replacing the old caulking. I think the caulk removal by Dab or Dap. Keep those DIY videos coming look forward to the next video. Aloha from Kansas
I have to update--I was unable to purchase Caulk Be-Gone Locally, but I did finally order some through my local Ace Hardware. (Amazon was about $3 more expensive). While I was waiting, I picked up some Klean Strip (hear me out) because Home Depot (US) does carry it. I only purchased it because they replaced the spray with a thick liquid, and I thought "what the heck--let's try it." I covered the very substantial calk around my window, using a chip brush to cover it well, and let it sit about 3 hours. I was not disappointed! The caulk was immovable prior to the application, and it took some work, but I was able to get it off! So Klean Strip must have watched this video. When I got the Caulk Be-Gone, which I used around a jet tub, I stupidly left it to set over night. It turned the caulk into a gum-like goo, which did come off pretty well, but left a caulk residue which eventually came off with a wet micro-fiber cloth. This was definitely user error. The Klean Strip dries completely and was easily removed with water. Dap is the winner, but Klean Strip is back in the running. Sorry for the long post.
Thanks for the great video. I was at Ace Hardware looking for tools to remove bathtub caulk and almost bought the best caulk remover. Bought the Lift Off Caulk Remover when I was at Menards because I had a rebate certificate. I had the feeling that I should look this up, and glad I did. I'm going back to Ace to get the first and best one...I have time to wait for it to do the work, and I'm returning the Lift Off one.
I didn’t even know a caulk removal existed. Was always using a tool but next time I will buy the caulk be gone. Seemed to work the best. Thank you for the video. 👍👍👍
Thanks for this video! I already have the Krud Kutter, but don't want to do more work with this than I need, so I'll try your first choice. I also have regular goo gone, which is supposed to work, too, as well as alcohol.. I'll try my own test with your top choice and the ones I already own. I have old non-silicone and silicone as well. I'm also trying a hairdryer (but not with chemicals, which can be a fire hazard). Luckily the Caulk Be Gone isn't too pricey, so I can try it first. I dread doing caulk, but it's necessary. Your videos are great, no unnecessary chatter, just the info we need.
Found this video while having trouble removing a shower door frame from a fiberglass combo tub. Whatever idiots installed it decided to also use caulk as an adhesive rather than only as a sealant, so I'm having trouble removing a 2" inch wide strip of caulk holding the frame in place! Blow dryer and pry bar is very slow going without damaging the enclosure and even then it's leaving a LOT of residue behind. Will try the top rated product.
So glad I came across this video. My inexperienced husband did a terrible job of caulking our beige shower pan with bright white caulk and really just making a mess. I've been biting my tongue since then and knowing I had to do something to get the caulk off. The Dap Caulk be gone is working like a champ after 90 minutes on my first small area. I've applied it to the rest of the area and will give it a full 2 hours to make it a little easier. Can't wait to have this eyesore taken care of. Ordered caulking tools as well for the new application. Thanks so much.
I wasn't even aware that a caulk remover was a thing.. been doing it the hard way with old fashioned elbow grease and a scraper. I've got a current tub scenario in which the caulk is mostly removed, but it would probably benefit from your 2nd recommended solution to spray on and easier clean up. Thanks!
6:39 - you used the Goo Gone directions for “fresh caulk” (less than 1 hour). On the label it states to wait up to 2 hours for cured caulk and apply a 1/8 inch thick layer. Additionally it states: for non-acrylic caulks, wait even longer than the 2 hours. I assume this is cured caulk, and likely silicone since it’s in the tub. I will try and Goo Gone stuff and see how it compares to the other results and post on here. Honest mistake! I almost missed these directions as well. Also - I got a 14oz bottle for $9.50.
I think it would have been interesting to see candidate #7 - "None of the above". How much work is it to just get in there with the hand tools? Looks like DAP my be the only one that easier.
@mellocello187 first that hard as a rock sealant s most likely acrylic and it is just one of the reasons it should never be used for anything but paint prep.I usually use an old “ beater” wood chisel or a 5n1 and gently and carefully tap it lightly with a hammer. Slowly nibble it away at it.( with the edge parallel to the sealant so you don’t accidentally scratch the surface beyond the sealant. This way if you do accidentally scratch it you can easily cover it with the new sealant. You should find that nice you get it started it will break out in pieces..Once the bulk is out I use a single edge razor blade , again going parallel to the sealant,in a slicing motion to remove the rest.
I was just thinking about doing this the other day on one of my bathrooms. I was stressing out about it but now I feel quite confident I can get it done with the right product and tools. Thanks for the unbiased video. Question: what do I use to clean the surface before reapplying new caulk - rubbing alcohol?
The first two products seemed like the best. All the rest seemed meh. It didn't look like the Goo Gone (rated #3) was much better than the lower ranked ones. I really liked this side-by-side testing. Thanks for making this video!
Impressive that the dap brand worked so well. It’s probably due to the fact that it adheres to the caulk., Vs the spay on. Thanks for the comparison. 👍
If you are lazy like me, get an Oscillating Multi Tool (Ryobi has a fairly inexpensive one) and use a scraper blade with it. A great blade is the Milwaukee Rigid scraper. It will make very quick work of removing any caulk and the tool is incredibly helpful around the home.
Cool and helpful video. I went to Lowes, and I asked for the number one item. I didn't know the correct name, but the worker did not know about this product either. So. I got goof off, and did not work. Thank you for this video, now I know the name
Just finished using Goo Gone on acrylic new tub surround that had an accident with silicone smudge that left silicone on a panel. Goo Gone worked good with a procedure of spraying and a little soak time and elbow grease with a rag. Worked really good
Good video and great information to have. Would've liked to have seen other aspects evaluated such as fumes/odor, how difficult it was to remove the caulk without any chemicals (as a control), how difficult it was to cleanup, whether there were any adhesion problems with the new caulk i.e. residue issues. Thanks again!
I’m a,professional caulker and there ARE residue issues that WILL cause adhesion problems causing the sealant to fail prematurely. But for some reason homeowners don’t seem to care about that. You always see them using water,soapy water, alcohol or window cleaner to tool the sealant. These all cause adhesion issues along with curing issues and premature failure. The simple fact is homeowners never do adhesion tests so they don’t know. We are required to make frequent adhesion and cohesion tests so we see the things that cause issues.You will never see a professional caulker use these products.
@@pjcookmke no chemicals except for alcohol or acetone ( we used to use MEK) for final cleaning and maybe remove very thin film just utility knife, razor blade scraper, and a few assorted scrapers. Sometimes if the previous installer was stupid enough to use acrylic and it is now rock hard we will use a wood chisel very carefully gently tapping, but is very easy to crack the tile if your not careful.A smart pro would NEVER contaminate porous surfaces, like grout and most stone, with any chemical that adversely affects sealants. Also if we use anything like this it voids our warranty.
You said the caulk you were removing wasn't that old. We moved into a home with really disgusting caulking around a tub with tile walls and a shower with all tile walls(I haven't started in there yet). Do you think that caulk be gone would work best on old caulk? I already tried two of the products you tested and the tub has won both times. I have been looking at a lot of you tube videos for more help.
Good video review. Couple of comments. Three month old caulk isn’t very old and as a control condition it would be been good to try to remove the caulk using just a scraper and another case where you just used water. Also, how about a heat gun to soften the caulk. I’m guessing the result would have been much different on caulk that’s 2-3 years old but that’s beyond the scope of this video. You mentioned wearing gloves, how about the need for lung protection? Any warning on the products? Looking forward to the next video.
I caulk a lot of toilets and I ran into something like liquid nail that someone put on around a toilet. This one is a head scratcher. I don't see any good video's for that situation. I have Goof Off and Goo Gone, so I guess I'll try those. I think I'll start at the back of the toilet in case it damages the vinyl floor.
Hey bro thanks for the video great comparison and just from observation Point watching I would agree with those ratings and I'm definitely going to try to dap
Great video. What material was your shower basin made of? I have a fibreglass style shower stall but am wondering if caulk be gone would damage the finish?
I really liked your informative vid: short, comparative, and packed with relevant info. I don't subscribe often but I did with your channel. I'm looking forward to seeing more of your DIY content. This topic of silicone removal by solvent isn't widely covered, so I especially appreciated it. I was looking for results of acetone, so maybe adding acetone and mineral spirits would have been nice. Do you know how they would have stacked up? (I'm actually looking to remove silicone sealant from metal pop up camper roof - less info there. Ugh!) Thx!
That was a great tip, using brown paper to line the shower stall. However, a HAIRDRYER is fool proof. You still can only do about 4 or 5 inches at a time, but we want a good job the first time.
hello im wondering if you or someone that reads this comment can help me. so the plumber came and he recaulked the kitchen sink with silicone clear caulk. he removed the old and then put new caulking where it was gapping between the sink and quartz countertop. i let it dry except it doesnt appear to have dried and its on the edge of the countertop and on the sink below the gap where the silicone is supposed to be. its really rough like its almost pilling around. very messy. he didnt do a very clean job, its gooey all around the edges. i thought the stuff dried but its been like a week. how do i remove the excess silicone caulk from the areas its not supposed to be without removing it from where its supposed to be, which is just between the sink and countertop? im afraid of doing anything that will scratch the stainless sink, i dont know how to clean the excess without removing all of it but the stuff seems to be everywhere. im going to call the plumber back and ask him to come back but just incase he wont i need to know what to do. i hope this makes sense. thank you
I work as a handyman on Task Rabbit. I regularly am hired to redo bathtub and kitchen caulking. Regarding the DAP 2 to 6 hour wait time that’s a hard no go for me. Understand that the vast majority of caulking isn’t even in contact with the surface it’s being removed from. Use the tools to take almost all the caulking off, especially the caulk removal tool. It’s pretty good*. After most of the caulk is removed THEN apply caulk remover to get the most critical part, the thin layer of caulking that is actually touching the surface you’re removing it from.
For the amount of work shown here after the various removers have been applied it’s a waste of time, effort, and money to apply it on anything other than the final layer.
Lastly a shout out to you sir for this excellent side by side comparison!
* Don’t use a cheap plastic version. Get the metal. Like in this video. The plastic will go dull really fast and your workload will increase exponentially. Also, while utility knives are useful in this circumstance, a razor scraper (basically a razor blade with a handle on it) is great for the places the knife doesn’t work so well in. You can find them in the paint departments at your local building supply or hardware store.
I’m a professional caulker and you will never see us use caulk remover. It contaminates the substrate and voids the warranty. NEVER USE THEM. For typical sealants around the house all you need is, like you said, a utility knife, razor scraper, and a solvent like acetone or alcohol ( we use MEK, but is hazardous and hard to get a hold of) for final cleaning. And as for “ not in contact” this is largely due to the stupid trend of using soapy water to “ tool “ the joint.
Keeping it simple is best. I love your well written comment!
These products are good for DIY where the wait time doesn't matter. Using metal removal tools have the chance of scratching unwanted areas, and the likelihood of that increases if one is doing it for the first time.
As an engineer, this was one of the best - if not THE best training videos I’ve ever seen. The “graphics” were clear and easily understood, the audio was concise, clear, easily heard and understood, the presentation was thorough and captured all the essential steps - nice job! I wish everyone could do this good on TH-cam. High Bar to follow
As a professional caulker you are totally inept as an engineer. All of these products contaminate ANY porous surfaces and will void the warranty in an industrial/ commercial situation and should never be used by consumers
i agree that this was an excellent comparison. Now, based on comments from professionals and homeowners, I believe your rating of Caulk-Be-Gone is #1. That is the homeowner choice as they hae 2+ hours to wait, As being a homeowner, a appreciate this review.
Thanks! Great video
I tried Caulk Be Gone to remove silicone caulk and it definitely helps a lot. Recently, I found a better alternative - Hi-Tech Super Solv. It works on silicone caulk like WD-40 without leaving the undesirable oily film.
I didn’t know caulk remover existed until a week ago when I was at the hardware store buying new caulk. I’m glad I saw your video today. I have textured paint walls surrounding my tub and I don’t want to scrape the wall if I can help it, so this would be a scenario where I’ll try this instead of elbow grease.
Love all your do it you're home repair/fixed videos. I think you are helping many homeowners who sometimes don't know what do or how to do it. When it comes to do it yourself and saving money. I really appreciate your videos specifically the home electric wiring. Thanks 🙏 and may God bless you and your beautiful family. Thanks
That first one was satisfying to watch
Awesome video I'm retired and I just bought a house 6 months ago and am going to do a lot of replacing the old caulking. I think the caulk removal by Dab or Dap. Keep those DIY videos coming look forward to the next video. Aloha from Kansas
I had no idea this stuff even existed. Great video. You have a new subscriber!
I have to update--I was unable to purchase Caulk Be-Gone Locally, but I did finally order some through my local Ace Hardware. (Amazon was about $3 more expensive). While I was waiting, I picked up some Klean Strip (hear me out) because Home Depot (US) does carry it. I only purchased it because they replaced the spray with a thick liquid, and I thought "what the heck--let's try it." I
covered the very substantial calk around my window, using a chip brush to cover it well, and let it sit about 3 hours. I was not disappointed! The caulk was immovable prior to the application, and it took some work, but I was able to get it off!
So Klean Strip must have watched this video.
When I got the Caulk Be-Gone, which I used around a jet tub, I stupidly left it to set over night. It turned the caulk into a gum-like goo, which did come off pretty well, but left a caulk residue which eventually came off with a wet micro-fiber cloth. This was definitely user error. The Klean Strip dries completely and was easily removed with water.
Dap is the winner, but Klean Strip is back in the running. Sorry for the long post.
Really nicely done video. Well thought out and presented well. I love that you included wait-times and price points. Thank you.
Thank you Kevin! 🙏🏽😊
Thanks for the great video. I was at Ace Hardware looking for tools to remove bathtub caulk and almost bought the best caulk remover. Bought the Lift Off Caulk Remover when I was at Menards because I had a rebate certificate. I had the feeling that I should look this up, and glad I did. I'm going back to Ace to get the first and best one...I have time to wait for it to do the work, and I'm returning the Lift Off one.
Glad I could help!🙏🏽👍🏽😊
Thanks for conducting the reviews. Will definitely try the clear winner!! Good video review!
found your channel while adding a bathroom to my home about a year ago. Great content! really helped me during this project.
Calk be gone was the cleanest one so far and easiest halfway through the demonstration
I didn't know about caulk removers I'm really learning from your channel, I've always used a putty scraper thanks for the information ☺️
I didn’t even know a caulk removal existed. Was always using a tool but next time I will buy the caulk be gone. Seemed to work the best. Thank you for the video. 👍👍👍
I am planning to remove my shower doors to reseal the frame and your video helped a whole lot. Thank you.
This was super helpful. Caulk-be-gone is on the shopping list now.
Thank you Joey! 🙏🏽😊
Thanks for this video! I already have the Krud Kutter, but don't want to do more work with this than I need, so I'll try your first choice. I also have regular goo gone, which is supposed to work, too, as well as alcohol.. I'll try my own test with your top choice and the ones I already own. I have old non-silicone and silicone as well. I'm also trying a hairdryer (but not with chemicals, which can be a fire hazard). Luckily the Caulk Be Gone isn't too pricey, so I can try it first. I dread doing caulk, but it's necessary. Your videos are great, no unnecessary chatter, just the info we need.
Found this video while having trouble removing a shower door frame from a fiberglass combo tub.
Whatever idiots installed it decided to also use caulk as an adhesive rather than only as a sealant, so I'm having trouble removing a 2" inch wide strip of caulk holding the frame in place!
Blow dryer and pry bar is very slow going without damaging the enclosure and even then it's leaving a LOT of residue behind. Will try the top rated product.
So glad I came across this video. My inexperienced husband did a terrible job of caulking our beige shower pan with bright white caulk and really just making a mess. I've been biting my tongue since then and knowing I had to do something to get the caulk off. The Dap Caulk be gone is working like a champ after 90 minutes on my first small area. I've applied it to the rest of the area and will give it a full 2 hours to make it a little easier. Can't wait to have this eyesore taken care of. Ordered caulking tools as well for the new application. Thanks so much.
That's considerate of you to hold your peace about his efforts, this stuff can be harder than it looks!
you sound like a B.
I wasn't even aware that a caulk remover was a thing.. been doing it the hard way with old fashioned elbow grease and a scraper. I've got a current tub scenario in which the caulk is mostly removed, but it would probably benefit from your 2nd recommended solution to spray on and easier clean up. Thanks!
Yes the spray will work best on left over residue 👍🏽😊
Thank you for saving me time and money. Can these also be used to remove residue on tile and shower pans?
Thanks for the tip. Didn't think goo gone would be as good, but it's good for other things.
6:39 - you used the Goo Gone directions for “fresh caulk” (less than 1 hour). On the label it states to wait up to 2 hours for cured caulk and apply a 1/8 inch thick layer. Additionally it states: for non-acrylic caulks, wait even longer than the 2 hours. I assume this is cured caulk, and likely silicone since it’s in the tub. I will try and Goo Gone stuff and see how it compares to the other results and post on here. Honest mistake! I almost missed these directions as well.
Also - I got a 14oz bottle for $9.50.
How did this work out?
I think it would have been interesting to see candidate #7 - "None of the above". How much work is it to just get in there with the hand tools? Looks like DAP my be the only one that easier.
I’m a professional caulker who has removed miles of sealant. Caulk removers are a waste of time and money.
@mellocello187 first that hard as a rock sealant s most likely acrylic and it is just one of the reasons it should never be used for anything but paint prep.I usually use an old “ beater” wood chisel or a 5n1 and gently and carefully tap it lightly with a hammer. Slowly nibble it away at it.( with the edge parallel to the sealant so you don’t accidentally scratch the surface beyond the sealant. This way if you do accidentally scratch it you can easily cover it with the new sealant. You should find that nice you get it started it will break out in pieces..Once the bulk is out I use a single edge razor blade , again going parallel to the sealant,in a slicing motion to remove the rest.
I was just thinking about doing this the other day on one of my bathrooms. I was stressing out about it but now I feel quite confident I can get it done with the right product and tools. Thanks for the unbiased video. Question: what do I use to clean the surface before reapplying new caulk - rubbing alcohol?
Soap and warm water
For me the Caulk Remover, Latex, Caulk be gone is best thanks 🙏🏻
The first two products seemed like the best. All the rest seemed meh. It didn't look like the Goo Gone (rated #3) was much better than the lower ranked ones. I really liked this side-by-side testing. Thanks for making this video!
Great video for getting rid of caulking in bathroom. Thanks!
Very usesful video! I have a caulk gun that is covered in caulk to the point it's just UGLY. Will try one of these cleaners.
Thanks, I always removed it manually and it takes a long time. I will try caulk be gone by DAP.👍
Thanks for the knowledge and now I know what to get for my chalk removal
I’m glad I could be of help! 👍🏽🙏🏽😊
Yes sir! Thanks. I needed this. About to do the same to my shower. 🤦🏽♂️
Great tutorial,
Thank you for work!
Great!, the timing is just right. I was looking for a good caulk remover
Just the video I wanted to see. Thanks. It's going to help as I'm about to do some bathroom maintenance.
Can you do a grout removal segment. That is my next job on a shower that leaks. Your videos are great. It was a nice presentation.
Thanks, I just ordered the Dap with your code.
Agreed. I'll be trying out the Caulk-be-gone very soon. Thx
Impressive that the dap brand worked so well. It’s probably due to the fact that it adheres to the caulk., Vs the spay on. Thanks for the comparison. 👍
If you are lazy like me, get an Oscillating Multi Tool (Ryobi has a fairly inexpensive one) and use a scraper blade with it. A great blade is the Milwaukee Rigid scraper. It will make very quick work of removing any caulk and the tool is incredibly helpful around the home.
Cool and helpful video. I went to Lowes, and I asked for the number one item. I didn't know the correct name, but the worker did not know about this product either. So. I got goof off, and did not work. Thank you for this video, now I know the name
Always like to see what you are doing. Very helpful!
Thanks ... I had already bought Klean Strip...I'll see if I can return it.
I got the crud cutter. 😢
Just need to remove small bits of latex caulk. I will try the DAP product.
Just finished using Goo Gone on acrylic new tub surround that had an accident with silicone smudge that left silicone on a panel. Goo Gone worked good with a procedure of spraying and a little soak time and elbow grease with a rag. Worked really good
Good video and great information to have. Would've liked to have seen other aspects evaluated such as fumes/odor, how difficult it was to remove the caulk without any chemicals (as a control), how difficult it was to cleanup, whether there were any adhesion problems with the new caulk i.e. residue issues. Thanks again!
I’m a,professional caulker and there ARE residue issues that WILL cause adhesion problems causing the sealant to fail prematurely. But for some reason homeowners don’t seem to care about that. You always see them using water,soapy water, alcohol or window cleaner to tool the sealant. These all cause adhesion issues along with curing issues and premature failure. The simple fact is homeowners never do adhesion tests so they don’t know. We are required to make frequent adhesion and cohesion tests so we see the things that cause issues.You will never see a professional caulker use these products.
@@genecarden780what would a pro use?
@@pjcookmke no chemicals except for alcohol or acetone ( we used to use MEK) for final cleaning and maybe remove very thin film just utility knife, razor blade scraper, and a few assorted scrapers. Sometimes if the previous installer was stupid enough to use acrylic and it is now rock hard we will use a wood chisel very carefully gently tapping, but is very easy to crack the tile if your not careful.A smart pro would NEVER contaminate porous surfaces, like grout and most stone, with any chemical that adversely affects sealants. Also if we use anything like this it voids our warranty.
I needed this video. I am in need to do my shower soon.
You said the caulk you were removing wasn't that old. We moved into a home with really disgusting caulking around a tub with tile walls and a shower with all tile walls(I haven't started in there yet). Do you think that caulk be gone would work best on old caulk? I already tried two of the products you tested and the tub has won both times. I have been looking at a lot of you tube videos for more help.
Thank so much for your video,it realy a good healp for all single woman that like to do thinks on her on.
thank thank you
I like this video because I didn't know these types of products existed
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽😊
Great information very helpful
Appreciate your honest review!
Good video review. Couple of comments. Three month old caulk isn’t very old and as a control condition it would be been good to try to remove the caulk using just a scraper and another case where you just used water. Also, how about a heat gun to soften the caulk. I’m guessing the result would have been much different on caulk that’s 2-3 years old but that’s beyond the scope of this video. You mentioned wearing gloves, how about the need for lung protection? Any warning on the products? Looking forward to the next video.
Awesome review!
Thank you Keith! 👍🏽🙏🏽😊
Thanks for the analysis!
Thank you for watching! 🙏🏽😊
Awesome video! Thank you for making it!
Informative! Thank you. Well presented.
Thank you!
I caulk a lot of toilets and I ran into something like liquid nail that someone put on around a toilet. This one is a head scratcher. I don't see any good video's for that situation. I have Goof Off and Goo Gone, so I guess I'll try those. I think I'll start at the back of the toilet in case it damages the vinyl floor.
Hey bro thanks for the video great comparison and just from observation Point watching I would agree with those ratings and I'm definitely going to try to dap
Great video. What material was your shower basin made of? I have a fibreglass style shower stall but am wondering if caulk be gone would damage the finish?
Great video !
For the stubborn caulk inside the gap, a dental scaler with a curved tip works well!!!!!!!!!!
Great vid, very helpful.👍
Glad it was helpful!🙏🏽😊
Super helpful! Thank you, brother!
Great information
I really liked your informative vid: short, comparative, and packed with relevant info. I don't subscribe often but I did with your channel. I'm looking forward to seeing more of your DIY content. This topic of silicone removal by solvent isn't widely covered, so I especially appreciated it. I was looking for results of acetone, so maybe adding acetone and mineral spirits would have been nice. Do you know how they would have stacked up? (I'm actually looking to remove silicone sealant from metal pop up camper roof - less info there. Ugh!) Thx!
Some baking soda and bleach and a bit of scrubbing helped lift off some silicone in the bathroom 🙂
Which caulk did you go with after using the removers
For the bathroom I used the silicone 👍🏽😊
@@FixThisHouse the same one that faded or a different brand?
Thank you for posting this. :)
I’m glad I could be of help!
Thank you for the experiment
That was a great tip, using brown paper to line the shower stall. However, a HAIRDRYER is fool proof.
You still can only do about 4 or 5 inches at a time, but we want a good job the first time.
Well done experiment.
Thank you for the helpful information ☺️
I’m glad I could be of help! 👍🏽😊
Great information, thank you!
It's interesting that the green stuff says it is for latex caulk and doesn't mention silicone.
Yesterday I had a new entry door installed. Today there's clear sticky residue on the outside door trim. Help? I assume it's clear caulk.
Which one can I use to remove caulk from the shower faucet ? I need to put new one 🙏
Great video. Might have to re-caulk a brand new shower 🥴
Thank you. Now I know which one to buy...caulk be gone!
Very helpful video! Thanks!
Does it work on window exterior
Will any or all of these harm Plexiglas?
Great video. Very helpful.
What about a heat gun?
Thank you very informative I love the comparison.
I’m using goo gone on the acrylic tub/ surround today we’ll see. It definitely wasn’t $30 though
Not sure where you bought your " caulk be gone " But Amazon sells the 5.5 tube for between $40 and $ 60 Canadian ....
Was this experiment performed on latex or silicone caulk? I’d go with the DAP based on your results but I see it’s labeled for latex.
Description says "silicone latex caulk" but these are clearly for Latex. I think Silicone is more difficult, but which is best for Silicone?
Very helpful
Thank you! 🙏🏽
Thank you so much I really appreciate it the help 🙏
Great video, thanks
Very helpful!
Great job thank you
HEAT GUN. YOU ARE WELCOME. Forget all those gimmick sprays. Been there done that.
hello im wondering if you or someone that reads this comment can help me. so the plumber came and he recaulked the kitchen sink with silicone clear caulk. he removed the old and then put new caulking where it was gapping between the sink and quartz countertop. i let it dry except it doesnt appear to have dried and its on the edge of the countertop and on the sink below the gap where the silicone is supposed to be. its really rough like its almost pilling around. very messy. he didnt do a very clean job, its gooey all around the edges. i thought the stuff dried but its been like a week. how do i remove the excess silicone caulk from the areas its not supposed to be without removing it from where its supposed to be, which is just between the sink and countertop? im afraid of doing anything that will scratch the stainless sink, i dont know how to clean the excess without removing all of it but the stuff seems to be everywhere. im going to call the plumber back and ask him to come back but just incase he wont i need to know what to do. i hope this makes sense. thank you
I'd like the answer to this.
Think you so much