I have watched all of these videos about silicone removal. Boy are they hard work. I have had some plastic gully laid along the length of my tiled patio in Spain 6 mtrs in fact and it has been baked by the hot sun for three years and it is/was thick and solid. I found a bottle of apple cider vinegar in the cupboard and literally drenched the whole run of silicone/mastic. After just five minutes it simply lost its adhesion and began to break down. I began to scrape it up. I was amazed! just need to go over it to remove the little residue with some white spirit. Job done. Don´t go wasting your money on so called chemicals to remove your old silicone. I reckon any kind of vinegar would work, just experiment.
I was removing large beads of silicone from a spa skimmer that needed to be removed. Some areas were difficult to get to so I went online for some advise and spraying the silicone with wd 40 and letting it settle in for 30 mins made the job very easy. Thanks for the pointer!
I've re-caulked many showers and tubs with great success without using any type of silicone removal product. I find that for the majority of jobs, just a 1or 2 inch sharp putty knife does a great job. Also, a Dremel with a chisel attachment does a real nice job to get the majority of the old caulking out. I've tried WD-40, but then had issues removing all of the oily residue with mineral spirits, otherwise the caulk won't adhere properly. Also, when you are done putting down the bead, spray the bead with a mixture of dish soap and water before you swipe the caulking. It will make for an easy and smooth finish. Good luck to all!
Soapy water trick is great but you must make sure ther are no small areas the silicne missed, or these will become unstickable. Also dip your finger or tool in the stuff.
If you apply it correctly, it's easy to remove, or if my wife does it, then its a nightmare to remove and looks like a Jackson painting before removal.
Thank you for the demonstration. It would of been cool to see a 3rd set up with no products used (control) and just the tool. So we could compare the time saved. :)
+TheNumbuK You are welcome. I could not afford to rig up another set up LOL. The grab adhesive test that I did earlier in the year used up most of my prop budget LOL Thanks for the comment
+Ultimate Handyman you could have used one half of one of the props witout any product applied to the silicone to be fully scientific and through come on man this is the 21st century get with it next time. Have you asked any of the silicone manufacturers the question: what best removes the silicone?
WD-40 is almost impossible to *completely* remove from a surface. So, if you intend to reseal the gap, DO NOT use WD-40. The same properties that make it great at removing sealant will degrade any new sealant you put on. After a while, your new sealant will begin to peel away.
Not impossible at all. Any solvent that removes oil-based compounds will remove it. Acetone, alcohol, mineral spirits, even scrubbing with soap and water will do it.
@@ewong7492 I agree, I have used WD40 for years to remove sealant, but like others have said...WD40 does leave a residue, to remove this completely before re-sealing is very important. Once sealant is removed....I spray MrMuscle kitchen degreaser and wipe, then after I just wipe with warm soapy water, and bobs ya uncle....Dry then reseal. NEVER had a problem.
@@ohno316 how so? how are you gonna call someone wrong without any explanation? it is very much possible to remove wd-40 completely with the things that he said
a couple of perhaps important points. Firstly, without a control test (no chemicals) we can not tell if the WD-40 or the remover did anything at all. Secondly, and more important is that the both materials are topical (they go on the surface) so it is basic good method to remove as much silicone manually first... because (third point and the most important)... the idea is to remove the micron thin residue from the surfaces. If you want to reseal with new silicone the idea is for the silicone to bond to the clean surface... and it will not bond to old silicone. Even a paperthin coating left behind will ruin the bond and the silicone will fail. In the end you want the surfaces to be "squeaky clean". The WD40 will leave an oil residue that the silicone will not stick to. A good soap and water clean up might fix that... do not know myself. BTW... I used the benzenesulfonic acid based remover (appears to be same in video) which requires manual removal of most material first and then a minimum two times repeated coating and wipe (after 20 to 30 minutes)... I then clean up with Xylen to remove all residue. Squeaky Clean. Test surface materials first! The chemicals will melt most plastics!
I did a second test here without any chemicals- th-cam.com/video/6LDvz-sqOn8/w-d-xo.html No silicone was removed before applying the chemicals as I wanted to see which chemical made it easier to remove the silicone. Of course before re-applying the silicone I would recommend cleaning the are with methylated spirits, like I did in the how to silicone around a bath video- th-cam.com/video/DKFunUIh9rc/w-d-xo.html Thanks for the comment ;-)
You have just saved me hours of scraping a grove around a headlight on my truck. Someone had tried to reattach the headlight cover with silicone! After getting that cleaned out I will be using Flex Glue to put it back on!
My impression is that the silicone remover actually hurts the process, because it lowers the cohesive strength of the silicone, leading to it ripping apart and thus flexing around the tool. Probably better used for getting off silicone residue instead of chunks that force can be applied to.
Yep. Silicone remover / siøicone stripper is really for properly stripping away that remaining film and patches. Really important if you are to treat the surface afterwards with something else, like for instance primer and paint/laquer. Using silicone remover directly on a bead makes no sense. It would take a very long time and expend _a lot_ of rather expensive silicone stripper. It's a bit like spreading lots of salt on top of a foot of snow, to melt the ice at the bottom. Always scrape away the bulk of it first - it's quick and "free".
Sir, I owe you beer. 😊🙏. Got an expensive Patagonia hiking fleece, ripped it on a thornbush. Used it for scruff, while regretting the loss of a good piece of clothing. Wife felt sorry for this and treated me to a brand new one, with strict instructions never to use it in the workshop. Got the old and new ones mixed up one day and got silicone sealant on it. Your video solved the problem, spray, leave two minutes, buff off with a paper kitchen towel. If using it for tile sealant, would follow up the WD40 with acetone or isopropyl to ensure follow up silicone stuck though. Cheers mate
By sheer chance I was on my way out to buy some No Nonsense sealant remover to remove some residue from a tile when I noticed this video, played it, dug out my WD40, and saved over £4 and an hour of my life on a wasted journey. It worked a treat. I've had one of those removal tools for years but it wouldn't budge the last few bits of stubborn sealant. After applying the WD40 it scraped off the rest very easily leaving a smooth tile. I cleaned the WD40 off with plain liquid soap and it is squeaky clean, no remnants I can tell. Swarfiga would have been my next attempt. Thanks for the tip.
In both demos, it was good, old fashioned elbow grease that really removed the silicone. I just did our shower stall and removed the old silicone with a scrapper. Quick and easy and no chemicals.
I just did our bathroom with elbow grease and it looked like I had it easier than this guy did… although the builder who put it down in the first place wasn’t the brightest bulb in the pack and I suspect his work wasn’t nearly as good.
Great video as always. I've used an expensive product like that before to remove silicone around a sink, I followed the instructions 100% and it was useless. Made more of a mess, I don't actually used any products to remove silicone anymore, I use a window scraper with a sharp blade, being extremely carefully not to scratch and surfaces though! Also if anyone tries the wd40 method (I will next time) I hope they use soapy water and remover the wd40! Other wise they'll have a hell of a time trying to silicone on wd40!
after you had gone over the silicone with the scraper 1st or 2nd time apply the silicone remover again then scrape apply again then scrape. I bet it works even better by doing this way
Neither product removes silicone,it just lubricates and makes the tool a little easier to push along.I remove hundreds of metres of silicone each year from around baths ,basins and kitchen worktops,it can only be removed mechanically, I use a small woodwork chisel.
The real tip is in the comments. Woodworking chisel is what finally helped me the most in removing a lot of stubborn silicon off of stone tiles. Thank you good sir.
Wd40 seems more effective as the silicon comes away as a beed rather than in bits. I'm in the process of alterations in the kitchen so this video has helped tremendously. Thank you mate
It works really well. Just make sure that you clean the area thoroughly using methylated spirit before applying the new silicone. Thanks for the comment
Simple but effective demonstration, this WD-40 uses seems unlimited! Thank you, plus the other positive comments were also helpful town ordinary DIY person.
Duz-all works great too! Its a rubbing compound with micro-abrasives for buffing out scratches but the wax base removes bug tar and I was surprised to see it made short work of the silicone caulk too!
Just tried out the wd version as had nothing else in. Works a treat. Sprayed it on. Left a few mins. And could already see the silicone pulling away itself before I even started. .only difference is I used a metal wall paper scraper because I didnt have the actual correct tool but that worked fine too 😊 I just dug in the edge corner of it to slice threw it. Deffo reccomend the wd version if you have nothing else in. Great vid for amateurs like me 😊 now to get back to painting my tiles! 😫
So how about using on surface of fairly expense PVC Carrara white shower panels that I just buggered up by slamming rubber mallet having residue on it in process of adhering them to cement board with adhesive used ? Initially had used packing clear tape on edges of panels while making my cuts but extremely difficult pulling back off. Tried adding isopropyl alcohol and razor that helped somewhat but using hair spray prior and magic eraser sponge. Then using scuff pad really dulled and blemished panels so trying final cleaning and also need a quality pvc polish To restore to new look ??
I use several tools for this job. The WD-40 worked well, left my hands soft n'all!! This time, I used a 99p yellow handled blade and a lino- cut tool red, which is good for the small gap . What I have found is the sharper the blade with a good point the easier the job, slide under the silicone around the bath edge .passing under the silicone, keep the knife flat against the bath edge, both hands on the handle, and be firm, then go along the tiled edge above doing the same. Use the lino cutter to push out the silicone and then clean up and a put some pure bleach on a cloth or paper towel leave to dry well before applying the fresh silicone. Make sure the area and bath is really clean, before applying the fresh silicone, that way you can get to an excellent professional finish. Hope you find my tip useful. There really is no quick method to do a decent job. The WD 40 helped the knife run more smoothly and made the enamel look shiny and polished. So thanks!
@@senseisecurityschool9337 You clean it off using a clean rag and methylated spirits (denatured alcohol), this should be done even if you do not use any chemicals to remove the silicone ;-)
this looks great. however, the real test is how well will a new bead of silicon adhere to the vinyl and tile. how much clean-up is needed. wd40 should penetrate deeply and is oily?
It would have been interesting to have a third setup and just use the tool to see the result. I think it would have been comparable to the products used. Anyway you look at it, removing silicone is a time-consuming PAIN!
Not the situation I was looking for. If you accidentally get silicone on other flat surfaces, how do you get it off after you scrape it and there is still silicone residue on there. What chemicals work to get the silicone residue off of the flat surfaces? How do you get all the residue off of glass and off of painted surfaces?
Sorry I appreciate the time and effort you’ve taken producing this great video ; but all you need is a sharp craft knife cutting the top part where silicone meets tile , then bottom; where joint meets bath/tray/..... Then it’s a blunt-ish knife to gently get off the last bit....
What is the best way to remove silicone on a flat tile either side of a joint. The tiles are not completely flat/shiny surface like porcelain, they have a slightly uneven rough surface. I am battling my ass off to get it completely off. Have tried with a scraper/blade and when it seems everything is removed, then few days later it attracts dirt again🤦♂️
I noticed you sprayed the WD40 first, then applied the silicon on the same area? Are you comparing the two or are you using both for removal? Maybe I missed something ?
A few years ago, I made this video- th-cam.com/video/TZ7x6Lcml1Y/w-d-xo.html People kept saying that WD-40 worked as a silicone remover, so I tried that and compared it to silicone remover. Then of course people said that the tool was doing all the work and not the WD-40, so I then made this- th-cam.com/video/6LDvz-sqOn8/w-d-xo.html&t Thanks for the comment
Will give this a shot, to be honest Ive used the silicon remover with mixed results, I just persevere with a window scraper. Tedious but you get there in the end. Thanks for the video!
+Zed Man It would be interesting to try it out on some silicone that has been in position for a few years. I hope it works well for you ;-)Thanks for the comment
NOW that you've cleaned the old caulking off ... will the the WD-40 residue have any effect on the installation of new caulking. In other words will the new silicone adhere to the tile and/or counter.
Another problem is that this works for exposed silicone, but is not useful for closely-glued items mated together using silicone rubber sealant. Silicone doesn't require air to cure which makes it a popular adhesive for gluing things where air is excluded.
Works wonders if you have a shower/bath screen when it starts to creak when you move it back & fourth. Usually grab my can of wd-40 spray down the sides into rubber seals where it pivots & job done squeak gone 👍🏻
Worked like a charm. I removed 95% of the silicone with a scraper but the last part just wouldn’t come out. Sprayed wd40 > waited 15 mins and sand scraper 15 minutes later all residue was finally gone. Would methyl hydrate be the same as methylated spirits?
Now I am impressed, but will it get silicon out of my Polo Shirts? Perhaps a second spray of wd40 after the first pass with the tool would make removal of the stubborn areas easier?
+Michael Tricker Not sure about the Polo shirt! Yes applying more would have helped, but I was trying not to apply more of any of the products or you could be sure that someone would say I applied more of one than the other, making the test unfair ;-) Thanks for the comment
WD40 would remove silicone effectively, but it will leave a thin film of residue that may affect the replacing silicone on the same surface. How would you alleviate this?
I'd try WD-40 or methylated spirits and some plastic scrapers. I have a set of plastic, car trim removal tools, which I use for scraping. Good luck with it ;-)
Won't the WD40 get under vinyl if you're working along the bottom of a fiberglass tub and with vinyl flooring? Also worried that one or both will get scratched.
I always clean the area thoroughly using methylated spirits afterwards, as long as you use a plastic scraping tool, it should be fine. Thanks for the comment 👍
One 'water displacement' product removing a waterproof sealant...what a world. Thanks for the video and tip. (...love WD-40 myself...pity you can't drink it...)
I have a can in my truck, house,and work shop. WD40 can also be used on things stuck to the hands and more than likely it'll come off with ease.Saying it has thousands of uses probably is an understatement.
Nice video. Answered the very question that cropped up before replacing a shower surround. Thanks. Must get me a silicone remover tools. Are they all the same? Any recommendations?
Mine is only a cheap one that I picked up. The seem to sell some fancy ones now on ebay, not sure which is best though- fave.co/2Vg8iqI Thanks for the comment 👍
OK. Thanks. I got a Unibond one from Amazon - £2.75. Seems quite sturdy. In some area, after removing old silicone from the tray/tile border, I have a gap up to about 7mm. Fill with Polyfilla first, then silicone, two coats of silicone or one fatter one? What would you suggest, please?
@@andyfidler8544 I'd fill the gap with silicone, flush with the tray, then apply a larger bead on the top of that ( I would definitely not use polyfilla)
Is this what we call "Silicone sealant" or "Silicone caulk" ? The former (used for aquariums and some bath stalls) is more like "pure silicone" and the latter (I think) has more latex in with the silicone. (Please correct me if I've got that wrong?) Thanks!
I'm not sure, sorry. In the UK it is just called silicone sealant. We do have caulk but it is only used by decorators to fill gaps before painting over it. Thanks for the comment
I use a nice with a snap blade in it carefully cut along the top and bottom edge. the silicone comes off as clean as a whistle. the advantage of this is you can bend the blade flat with the surface. plus no need for either product.
***** I read many reviews people saying on the silicone mold appear after 6-7 month. Don't you think grout might be better? There is no MOLD proof compound on the market! Silicone soft and absorb water and soap in it - mold will come!
The silicone remover will do that- or the WD-40 Just make sure you clean the area thoroughly with methylated spirits before re-applying the new silicone Thanks for the comment 👍
The only affect those have is acting as a lubricant for the blade. It’s just like razorblading a sticker off glass. If you lube the blade it will glide through without getting stuck on the adhesive.
We use silicone sealant at work and spray penetrant. When you spray the penetrant on the silicone, you can actually see the silicone curling up at the edges! Thanks for the comment
+Bruce B Someone just suggested white spirits, but I'd probably use methylated spirits (denatured alcohol) as I normally use that before siliconing- as long as you give it plenty of time to evaporate.
No WD40 should not damage it. I know several people that have done this now using WD40. The scraper is a silicone removal tool made from plastic. Once the old silicone is cleaned off you clean the whole area with methylated spirits (denatured alcohol) and leave it a couple of hours before re-applying the silicone.
+Barry Dermott Try using paint brush cleaner, but don`t use anything which is thinners based solvent, or the plastic cladding will be doomed. I assume it`s not solvent based pink grip on the plastic cladding!
Hi Ultimate Handyman - Is WD40 safe to use around the grout when doing this job? My grout is light grey and I am scared of it leaving a dark coloured mark/stain on it. Thanks
It's not something I have tested but another TH-cam user said it did not stain his grout. Probably best if you can test it on an inconspicuous area first. After using the WD-40 it's also a good idea to clean the whole area using methylated spirits (denatured alcohol)
Is it easy to silicone again. Have heard once wd40 has been applied to remove old silicone it is difficult to reapply with great success? Is this true? What preperation would help when reapplying? Thanks, great vid
As long as you clean the area with methylated spirits (denatured alcohol) and give it a while before re-applying the new silicone it should be fine. Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman OK, have given it a good going over with white spirits but obviously it has gone deep into the grooving between sink and wall so fingers crossed. Will leave 24 hours as you say before reapplying.
@@ultimatehandyman if I was to re ain't the tiles would the tile paint adhere to the tiles OK it wd40 was used. Or is white spirits and a good clean still the answer? Thanks
Before painting any tiles you must follow the pain manufacturers instructions to the letter. I normally use Zinsser Perma white, before applying that you have to clean the area using methylated spirits and prime first using Zinsser 123
WOW Talk about a shocker. That stuff is like a Miracle Cure-All spray. Every home should have one! Perfect test though. Would you use that tool for removing internal window sealant before re-sealing ? And, what's it called please. Thank you.
Windows can be a real pain. I tried to remove some silicone on the outside of a window and WD-40 and silicone remove had no effect on the silicone.. I had to cut it away using a scraper blade and a multi tool. The tool I used is just called a silicone remover tool/silicone scraper. Thanks for the comment
However, he did state he was leaving them on for 15 mins. There looks like a jump when he transfers from one to the other, so presumably he paused the recording. Even if he did do them one after another the first strip didn't take much time to get off, & he sprayed the remover on first.
It is not something that I have ever tried, but I assume it would work, (it should clean up any residue, then evaporate) like the denatured alcohol. Thanks for the comment 👍
Hi what is the best to use for a bos com fitting and bos rubber that drips sligtly? I have replaced the push fit rubber for the shower pipe and also changed the bos com push fitting rubber, saves paying to have a whole new soil pump just drips sligtly. also someone has installed one of the cement weld bos the wrong way around is this removable with having a new soil pipe? Many Thanks Ian
10 minutes should do the trick. There are some silicones though, that cannot not be removed with WD-40 or silicone remover, but they are normally used on windows etc. I once had to cut a load of it away a few years back using a multi-tool. Thanks for the comment 👍
It depends! In some cases, you can just pull some silicone right off in almost one piece, as some silicones do not adhere well to masonry. There are a lot of variables though, such as the type of masonry and the formulation of the silicone used. I’d be reluctant to use WD-40, because it might soak into the brick, causing adhesion problems with the new bead of silicone.
The silicone remover gel is only aimed at removing/dissolving the small remnants of silicone left over. Why are you thinking it would dissolve/aid removing a massive bead of silicone.
This is a test to see which works best. Obviously to test something, if I had scraped away most of the silicone before applying the silicone remover or WD-40, you would not see the difference! A bit like when I tested out the grab adhesives in previous videos- I have never found the need to stick a block paver to a plasterboard partition 👍
Don't think any of them made any difference. Like you said, you're supposed to scrape off most of the silicone to start with. Bit puzzled why you didn't do that?
Methylated spirits (denatured alcohol) works well, with a clean rag. I often use blue paper towel, as in this example- th-cam.com/video/6o5JVxvWuhQ/w-d-xo.html 👍
My bathroom shower has like silicone around the cormers, but it all came off or lose from leaking. Whats the best paste or something to stop the water from leaking through to my room
The problem I have run into many times is where some "rocket scientist" (insert sarcasm here) uses silicone (instead of a painters caulk) on wall board and wood trim or has used silicone to fix cracks on wood doors on the raised panels. Will either products work without staining or leaving and oily residue that will cause finishing issues?
+Old Man from Scene Twenty Four The silicone remover can be cleaned off afterwards using methylated spirits (denatured alcohol), I'd also do the same after using the WD-40 although some people have recommended WD-40. Thanks for the comment ;-)
I was told that the name of WD40 came from the inventor. It was his 40th attempt at making a Water Dispersant!. I haven't researched this, but from years of having had personal experience with this product, I think it is fantastic at loosening rust from locks or embedded bolts but wouldn't even bother using it for this kind of work. Elbow grease and knuckles get rid of mixed chemicals which were made 'fit for purpose'!.
I tried it on some silicone externally a few days back and it did not seem to help much, but I also tried a heat gun and that did not help either. Perhaps it only works on certain silicones?I did try to recreate this test using just the silicone removal tool and it was much harder to remove so the WD-40 definitely did something. Thanks for the comment
Hi Ultimate Handyman! Can I use WD40 to get silicone off my pvc skirting board in the bathroom? And does WD40 remove grout leftover on tiles? Thanks Deb
I need to remove old silicone from the beading around the top my bath(where it meets the tiles) and reseal it. The last person who sealed it made a bit of a mess, sealant overloaded in the corners etc. I have the same tool as shown in the video and another plastic tool for smoothing the silicone after application. I want to keep the beading that's there already. I'm a very average at DIY. Anyone got any tips/tricks please.
Just take your time with it. After removing the silicone, ensure you clean the area thoroughly using methylated spirits (denatured alcohol), before reapplying the silicone 👍
No, probably not. I tried it once and it did not work, even silicone remover would not work. I used a multi tool and a blade attachment and used that to cut it away.
100% silicone is dressed, removed or trimmed using mineral spirits as written by the manufacture on the tube. Silicone comes in several colors and is more durable than latex or acrylic mixes. WD-40 is used as a cleaner, water displacement as intended during WD-II for certain electronics but is also flammable. It may have mineral spirits in it, but is designed to evaporate and leaves no lubricating properties behind. I use it only on rubber hose removal and removal using a pointed tool designed for that job. The tool shown is a 90 degree cutter, but remember counter tops, shower drains and walls are not a perfect 90 degrees. DK, ASE Master Tech since 1978, retired.
I have watched all of these videos about silicone removal. Boy are they hard work. I have had some plastic gully laid along the length of my tiled patio in Spain 6 mtrs in fact and it has been baked by the hot sun for three years and it is/was thick and solid. I found a bottle of apple cider vinegar in the cupboard and literally drenched the whole run of silicone/mastic. After just five minutes it simply lost its adhesion and began to break down. I began to scrape it up. I was amazed! just need to go over it to remove the little residue with some white spirit. Job done. Don´t go wasting your money on so called chemicals to remove your old silicone. I reckon any kind of vinegar would work, just experiment.
Thanks for the comment 👍
I was removing large beads of silicone from a spa skimmer that needed to be removed. Some areas were difficult to get to so I went online for some advise and spraying the silicone with wd 40 and letting it settle in for 30 mins made the job very easy. Thanks for the pointer!
Thanks for the comment
Does everyone here like the WD-40 for that ?
I've re-caulked many showers and tubs with great success without using any type of silicone removal product. I find that for the majority of jobs, just a 1or 2 inch sharp putty knife does a great job. Also, a Dremel with a chisel attachment does a real nice job to get the majority of the old caulking out. I've tried WD-40, but then had issues removing all of the oily residue with mineral spirits, otherwise the caulk won't adhere properly. Also, when you are done putting down the bead, spray the bead with a mixture of dish soap and water before you swipe the caulking. It will make for an easy and smooth finish. Good luck to all!
The scraper tool worked the best ! :)
Soapy water trick is great but you must make sure ther are no small areas the silicne missed, or these will become unstickable. Also dip your finger or tool in the stuff.
What about on walls? I'm trying to remove mine around my countertops and walls but it's tearing the wall up
Spray simple green and give a good wipe down removes the wd40 residue.
If you apply it correctly, it's easy to remove, or if my wife does it, then its a nightmare to remove and looks like a Jackson painting before removal.
Thank you for the demonstration. It would of been cool to see a 3rd set up with no products used (control) and just the tool. So we could compare the time saved. :)
+TheNumbuK
You are welcome.
I could not afford to rig up another set up LOL.
The grab adhesive test that I did earlier in the year used up most of my prop budget LOL
Thanks for the comment
+Ultimate Handyman you could have used one half of one of the props witout any product applied to the silicone to be fully scientific and through come on man this is the 21st century get with it next time.
Have you asked any of the silicone manufacturers the question: what best removes the silicone?
+Jack Jill Who needs to when you clearly know everything?
David Worsley
clearly you do, admitting that you don't know everything
Jack Jill lm
WD-40 is almost impossible to *completely* remove from a surface. So, if you intend to reseal the gap, DO NOT use WD-40. The same properties that make it great at removing sealant will degrade any new sealant you put on. After a while, your new sealant will begin to peel away.
Not impossible at all. Any solvent that removes oil-based compounds will remove it. Acetone, alcohol, mineral spirits, even scrubbing with soap and water will do it.
@@ewong7492 you're very wong 🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@ewong7492 I agree, I have used WD40 for years to remove sealant, but like others have said...WD40 does leave a residue, to remove this completely before re-sealing is very important. Once sealant is removed....I spray MrMuscle kitchen degreaser and wipe, then after I just wipe with warm soapy water, and bobs ya uncle....Dry then reseal. NEVER had a problem.
@@ohno316 how so? how are you gonna call someone wrong without any explanation? it is very much possible to remove wd-40 completely with the things that he said
Imagine thinking it impossible to remove wd40 lmao
a couple of perhaps important points. Firstly, without a control test (no chemicals) we can not tell if the WD-40 or the remover did anything at all. Secondly, and more important is that the both materials are topical (they go on the surface) so it is basic good method to remove as much silicone manually first... because (third point and the most important)... the idea is to remove the micron thin residue from the surfaces. If you want to reseal with new silicone the idea is for the silicone to bond to the clean surface... and it will not bond to old silicone. Even a paperthin coating left behind will ruin the bond and the silicone will fail.
In the end you want the surfaces to be "squeaky clean". The WD40 will leave an oil residue that the silicone will not stick to. A good soap and water clean up might fix that... do not know myself.
BTW... I used the benzenesulfonic acid based remover (appears to be same in video) which requires manual removal of most material first and then a minimum two times repeated coating and wipe (after 20 to 30 minutes)... I then clean up with Xylen to remove all residue. Squeaky Clean.
Test surface materials first! The chemicals will melt most plastics!
I did a second test here without any chemicals- th-cam.com/video/6LDvz-sqOn8/w-d-xo.html
No silicone was removed before applying the chemicals as I wanted to see which chemical made it easier to remove the silicone.
Of course before re-applying the silicone I would recommend cleaning the are with methylated spirits, like I did in the how to silicone around a bath video- th-cam.com/video/DKFunUIh9rc/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the comment ;-)
You have just saved me hours of scraping a grove around a headlight on my truck. Someone had tried to reattach the headlight cover with silicone! After getting that cleaned out I will be using Flex Glue to put it back on!
My impression is that the silicone remover actually hurts the process, because it lowers the cohesive strength of the silicone, leading to it ripping apart and thus flexing around the tool. Probably better used for getting off silicone residue instead of chunks that force can be applied to.
Yep. Silicone remover / siøicone stripper is really for properly stripping away that remaining film and patches. Really important if you are to treat the surface afterwards with something else, like for instance primer and paint/laquer. Using silicone remover directly on a bead makes no sense. It would take a very long time and expend _a lot_ of rather expensive silicone stripper. It's a bit like spreading lots of salt on top of a foot of snow, to melt the ice at the bottom. Always scrape away the bulk of it first - it's quick and "free".
Sir, I owe you beer. 😊🙏. Got an expensive Patagonia hiking fleece, ripped it on a thornbush. Used it for scruff, while regretting the loss of a good piece of clothing. Wife felt sorry for this and treated me to a brand new one, with strict instructions never to use it in the workshop. Got the old and new ones mixed up one day and got silicone sealant on it. Your video solved the problem, spray, leave two minutes, buff off with a paper kitchen towel. If using it for tile sealant, would follow up the WD40 with acetone or isopropyl to ensure follow up silicone stuck though. Cheers mate
👍
I tried this and it worked just as well as the expensive silicone remover gel I have used in the past. Thanks for the tip!
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
By sheer chance I was on my way out to buy some No Nonsense sealant remover to remove some residue from a tile when I noticed this video, played it, dug out my WD40, and saved over £4 and an hour of my life on a wasted journey. It worked a treat. I've had one of those removal tools for years but it wouldn't budge the last few bits of stubborn sealant. After applying the WD40 it scraped off the rest very easily leaving a smooth tile. I cleaned the WD40 off with plain liquid soap and it is squeaky clean, no remnants I can tell. Swarfiga would have been my next attempt. Thanks for the tip.
Thanks for the comment
In both demos, it was good, old fashioned elbow grease that really removed the silicone. I just did our shower stall and removed the old silicone with a scrapper. Quick and easy and no chemicals.
WD-40 definitely helps-
th-cam.com/video/6LDvz-sqOn8/w-d-xo.html&t
👍
I just did our bathroom with elbow grease and it looked like I had it easier than this guy did… although the builder who put it down in the first place wasn’t the brightest bulb in the pack and I suspect his work wasn’t nearly as good.
Great video as always. I've used an expensive product like that before to remove silicone around a sink, I followed the instructions 100% and it was useless. Made more of a mess, I don't actually used any products to remove silicone anymore, I use a window scraper with a sharp blade, being extremely carefully not to scratch and surfaces though! Also if anyone tries the wd40 method (I will next time) I hope they use soapy water and remover the wd40! Other wise they'll have a hell of a time trying to silicone on wd40!
+Faisal Y
Thanks Faisal, The silicone remover has worked for me in the past and has saved a lot of elbow grease.
Thanks for the comment
after you had gone over the silicone with the scraper 1st or 2nd time apply the silicone remover again then scrape apply again then scrape. I bet it works even better by doing this way
Really
Wouldn't that be the same case for the WD 40 ?
Neither product removes silicone,it just lubricates and makes the tool a little easier to push along.I remove hundreds of metres of silicone each year from around baths ,basins and kitchen worktops,it can only be removed mechanically, I use a small woodwork chisel.
it cleans off residue better than enything I make quite a mess when masticing baths. the only that gets dirty mastic smudges off it wd40!
probably a solvent would too.
+D Scooo is*
The real tip is in the comments. Woodworking chisel is what finally helped me the most in removing a lot of stubborn silicon off of stone tiles. Thank you good sir.
@@Sazazezer Just pulled out my wood chisel set thanks to your comment. Now it's time to get to work!
Thank you, this is exactly what I needed to see today when searching for silicone sealant remover
I’m glad you found the video useful
Thanks for the comment 👍
This WD-40 tip makes removing old caulk quicker & easier for this 61yo woman who is losing strength & tires easily. Thanks!
You are welcome. Before applying any new caulk, ensure you clean the area thoroughly using denatured alcohol.
Thanks for the comment
Wd40 seems more effective as the silicon comes away as a beed rather than in bits. I'm in the process of alterations in the kitchen so this video has helped tremendously. Thank you mate
It works really well. Just make sure that you clean the area thoroughly using methylated spirit before applying the new silicone.
Thanks for the comment
Simple but effective demonstration, this WD-40 uses seems unlimited! Thank you, plus the other positive comments were also helpful town ordinary DIY person.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Whichever method you use, make sure that you thoroughly clean afterwards or the new silicone will,over time, react with any residue left over!!
👍
To remove the residue of either product, use methylated spirit or alcohol to ensure no oily residue otherwise the silicon sealant won’t bond
Absolutely!
Thanks for the comment 👍
Duz-all works great too! Its a rubbing compound with micro-abrasives for buffing out scratches but the wax base removes bug tar and I was surprised to see it made short work of the silicone caulk too!
Thanks for the info!
We don't have the same definition of : "pretty easily"
I thought the same exact thing and immediately checked the comments to see if someone already commented this. hahaha
The old school definition of "easy" means u still gotta put a little elbo grease in to it. Lol..
bruh, if you can do something in about a minute, it's pretty easy.
What do you want it to do ? Fall off in front of you while you stare at it.
Maybe this helps some homeowners. But it usually comes off just the same with a straight edge razor, without applying any removal products.
Very convincing comparison !
Like I have said before, You certainly are gifted !
Thanks for another great video.
+BR Gurunandan
Thank you ;-)
Just tried out the wd version as had nothing else in. Works a treat. Sprayed it on. Left a few mins. And could already see the silicone pulling away itself before I even started. .only difference is I used a metal wall paper scraper because I didnt have the actual correct tool but that worked fine too 😊 I just dug in the edge corner of it to slice threw it. Deffo reccomend the wd version if you have nothing else in. Great vid for amateurs like me 😊 now to get back to painting my tiles! 😫
It works on most silicones, although it does not work on all formula's. I'm glad it worked for you ;-)
Thanks for the comment 👍
How did you go painting your tiles? I was considering doing the same. Any tips?
That was amazingly helpful. Thank you very much for taking the time and effort to test that out.
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment
So how about using on surface of fairly expense PVC Carrara white shower panels that I just buggered up by slamming rubber mallet having residue on it in process of adhering them to cement board with adhesive used ? Initially had used packing clear tape on edges of panels while making my cuts but extremely difficult pulling back off. Tried adding isopropyl alcohol and razor that helped somewhat but using hair spray prior and magic eraser sponge. Then using scuff pad really dulled and blemished panels so trying final cleaning and also need a quality pvc polish To restore to new look ??
Good video. You went through a lot of work and money to create those demo samples. Thanks for the info.
I'm glad you appreciate the work that went into the video ;-)
Thanks for the comment
I use several tools for this job. The WD-40 worked well, left my hands soft n'all!! This time, I used a 99p yellow handled blade and a lino- cut tool red, which is good for the small gap . What I have found is the sharper the blade with a good point the easier the job, slide under the silicone around the bath edge .passing under the silicone, keep the knife flat against the bath edge, both hands on the handle, and be firm, then go along the tiled edge above doing the same. Use the lino cutter to push out the silicone and then clean up and a put some pure bleach on a cloth or paper towel leave to dry well before applying the fresh silicone. Make sure the area and bath is really clean, before applying the fresh silicone, that way you can get to an excellent professional finish.
Hope you find my tip useful. There really is no quick method to do a decent job. The WD 40 helped the knife run more smoothly and made the enamel look shiny and polished. So thanks!
Thanks for the comment ;-)
It would be easier to use a snap off blade knife or single edge razor blade
The WD40 will be a pain to clean so you can re apply the new silicon
Rubbing alcohol gone in seconds
Yeah that's the problem - how are you going to clean off the WD-40 totally so that new caulk will stick?
@@senseisecurityschool9337 You clean it off using a clean rag and methylated spirits (denatured alcohol), this should be done even if you do not use any chemicals to remove the silicone ;-)
this looks great. however, the real test is how well will a new bead of silicon adhere to the vinyl and tile. how much clean-up is needed. wd40 should penetrate deeply and is oily?
+Des Wheelock I think it would need cleaning off with methylated spirits before re-siliconing.
Great solution - thanks. Also, re-sprayed and cleaned of the final residue layer with steel wool.
Thanks for the comment
It would have been interesting to have a third setup and just use the tool to see the result.
I think it would have been comparable to the products used.
Anyway you look at it, removing silicone is a time-consuming PAIN!
Yes, I should have done that, but I did a follow up video- th-cam.com/video/6LDvz-sqOn8/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the comment 👍
Not the situation I was looking for.
If you accidentally get silicone on other flat surfaces, how do you get it off after you scrape it and there is still silicone residue on there.
What chemicals work to get the silicone residue off of the flat surfaces?
How do you get all the residue off of glass and off of painted surfaces?
Not sure about painted surfaces!
But for glass, you can use methylated spirits/denatured alcohol
Impressive! Thx much for the very helpful video. Is the caulk removal took plastic for RV use?
what about just using the blade from a box cutter, and just lining it up by the tile and dragging it through? without any sprays?
That would not prove whether WD-40 works better than silicone remover
Thanks for the comment 👍
Sorry
I appreciate the time and effort you’ve taken producing this great video ; but all you need is a sharp craft knife cutting the top part where silicone meets tile , then bottom; where joint meets bath/tray/.....
Then it’s a blunt-ish knife to gently get off the last bit....
Thanks for the comment 👍
Hi Joe, so are you saying you don’t have to cut deeply into the silicone?
What is the best way to remove silicone on a flat tile either side of a joint. The tiles are not completely flat/shiny surface like porcelain, they have a slightly uneven rough surface. I am battling my ass off to get it completely off. Have tried with a scraper/blade and when it seems everything is removed, then few days later it attracts dirt again🤦♂️
Love your vids mate. dont normally comment much but after all i have learned from them i think its time i thanked you :)
Thanks for the comments ;-)
thanxx n. MiuOIL
$&
I noticed you sprayed the WD40 first, then applied the silicon on the same area? Are you comparing the two or are you using both for removal? Maybe I missed something ?
A few years ago, I made this video- th-cam.com/video/TZ7x6Lcml1Y/w-d-xo.html
People kept saying that WD-40 worked as a silicone remover, so I tried that and compared it to silicone remover.
Then of course people said that the tool was doing all the work and not the WD-40, so I then made this-
th-cam.com/video/6LDvz-sqOn8/w-d-xo.html&t
Thanks for the comment
Will give this a shot, to be honest Ive used the silicon remover with mixed results, I just persevere with a window scraper. Tedious but you get there in the end. Thanks for the video!
+Zed Man It would be interesting to try it out on some silicone that has been in position for a few years. I hope it works well for you ;-)Thanks for the comment
I'm about to do this on a metal shower frame that I want to sell, so no scraping tools must be involved. Thanks for this video.
Which one do they use in silicone valley?
Not sure about that Roger, I'm not allowed outside of Darwen ;-)
Ultimate Handyman I thought your accent was from the Blackburn/Darwen area :-)
Yes, although many people often guess at Yorkshire ;-)
Hipster by Vegan Products :)
NOW that you've cleaned the old caulking off ... will the the WD-40 residue have any effect on the installation of new caulking. In other words will the new silicone adhere to the tile and/or counter.
Yes, you should always clean the area thoroughly using methylated spirits (denatured alcohol)
Thanks for the comment
Thanks to the people that recommended using WD-40 to remove silicone.Good luck with the DIY this Easter ;-)
+Ultimate Handyman will wd40 help get the silver paper off my Easter Egg? lol, they need to improve the taste!
+jusb1066
LOL
Ultimate Handyman v
Another problem is that this works for exposed silicone, but is not useful for closely-glued items mated together using silicone rubber sealant. Silicone doesn't require air to cure which makes it a popular adhesive for gluing things where air is excluded.
Thanks for the comment
WD-40 does have a surprising amount of uses, worth a look on the net 🤔 The Swiss army of sprays
+cheechU38K Absolutely.Thanks for the comment
Works wonders if you have a shower/bath screen when it starts to creak when you move it back & fourth. Usually grab my can of wd-40 spray down the sides into rubber seals where it pivots & job done squeak gone 👍🏻
Worked like a charm. I removed 95% of the silicone with a scraper but the last part just wouldn’t come out. Sprayed wd40 > waited 15 mins and sand scraper 15 minutes later all residue was finally gone. Would methyl hydrate be the same as methylated spirits?
I'm not sure about methyl hydrate, sorry.
Thanks for the comment
Now I am impressed, but will it get silicon out of my Polo Shirts?
Perhaps a second spray of wd40 after the first pass with the tool would make removal of the stubborn areas easier?
+Michael Tricker
Not sure about the Polo shirt!
Yes applying more would have helped, but I was trying not to apply more of any of the products or you could be sure that someone would say I applied more of one than the other, making the test unfair ;-)
Thanks for the comment
WD40 would remove silicone effectively, but it will leave a thin film of residue that may affect the replacing silicone on the same surface. How would you alleviate this?
I normally give the area a really good clean using methylated spirits (denatured alcohol) using either a rag, or paper towels 👍
@@ultimatehandyman Thanks.
Any chance you could tell me how to remove shower board glue off a bath. Don't want to use a metal blade. Thanks 👍👍
I'd try WD-40 or methylated spirits and some plastic scrapers.
I have a set of plastic, car trim removal tools, which I use for scraping.
Good luck with it ;-)
Won't the WD40 get under vinyl if you're working along the bottom of a fiberglass tub and with vinyl flooring? Also worried that one or both will get scratched.
I always clean the area thoroughly using methylated spirits afterwards, as long as you use a plastic scraping tool, it should be fine.
Thanks for the comment 👍
One 'water displacement' product removing a waterproof sealant...what a world.
Thanks for the video and tip.
(...love WD-40 myself...pity you can't drink it...)
+David Smart
LOL, thanks for the comment ;-)
+David Smart Smells nice as well...
mrman17
Yes....but I got some on my jacket a few months ago and even after cleaning, the fish-oil base of the product is still apparent...
I have a can in my truck, house,and work shop. WD40 can also be used on things stuck to the hands and more than likely it'll come off with ease.Saying it has thousands of uses probably is an understatement.
+richardpinell Absolutely. Thanks for the comment
Nice video. Answered the very question that cropped up before replacing a shower surround. Thanks. Must get me a silicone remover tools. Are they all the same? Any recommendations?
Mine is only a cheap one that I picked up. The seem to sell some fancy ones now on ebay, not sure which is best though-
fave.co/2Vg8iqI
Thanks for the comment 👍
OK. Thanks. I got a Unibond one from Amazon - £2.75. Seems quite sturdy. In some area, after removing old silicone from the tray/tile border, I have a gap up to about 7mm. Fill with Polyfilla first, then silicone, two coats of silicone or one fatter one? What would you suggest, please?
@@andyfidler8544 I'd fill the gap with silicone, flush with the tray, then apply a larger bead on the top of that ( I would definitely not use polyfilla)
Thanks. Makes good sense. I appreciate your advice.
Any light on how well new sealant adhered after removal with these methods? Seems adhesion might possibly impacted by residual WD40
As long as you clean the area thoroughly using methylated spirits (denatured alcohol), it should be fine 👍
Should've done 1 test without treatment just with the tool itself. Great video keep up the good work.
th-cam.com/video/6LDvz-sqOn8/w-d-xo.html&t
Is this what we call "Silicone sealant" or "Silicone caulk" ? The former (used for aquariums and some bath stalls) is more like "pure silicone" and the latter (I think) has more latex in with the silicone. (Please correct me if I've got that wrong?) Thanks!
I'm not sure, sorry.
In the UK it is just called silicone sealant. We do have caulk but it is only used by decorators to fill gaps before painting over it.
Thanks for the comment
I use a nice with a snap blade in it carefully cut along the top and bottom edge. the silicone comes off as clean as a whistle. the advantage of this is you can bend the blade flat with the surface. plus no need for either product.
+Michael Sloan I'll try that in future ;-)Thanks for the comment
+Ultimate Handyman don't bother. As you bend the blade it does what its name implies 'snaps'
In your experience, please tell me - best mold resistant compound to cover the gaps between tiles? thanks!
Dow Corning sanitary silicone is good, as well as Everbuild's forever white/forever ivory is also good.
***** I read many reviews people saying on the silicone mold appear after 6-7 month. Don't you think grout might be better? There is no MOLD proof compound on the market! Silicone soft and absorb water and soap in it - mold will come!
Very good but I’m looking for a product that will remove silicone from a plastic bath. Thank you
The silicone remover will do that- or the WD-40
Just make sure you clean the area thoroughly with methylated spirits before re-applying the new silicone
Thanks for the comment 👍
The only affect those have is acting as a lubricant for the blade. It’s just like razorblading a sticker off glass. If you lube the blade it will glide through without getting stuck on the adhesive.
We use silicone sealant at work and spray penetrant. When you spray the penetrant on the silicone, you can actually see the silicone curling up at the edges!
Thanks for the comment
I wonder what would be a good solution to use to cleaning the WD40 residue off as to not effect the adhesion of new silicone.
+Bruce B
Someone just suggested white spirits, but I'd probably use methylated spirits (denatured alcohol) as I normally use that before siliconing- as long as you give it plenty of time to evaporate.
Thanks for the info. I enjoy your channel, I love learning new approaches to old problems.
+Bruce B
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comments ;-)
+Ultimate Handyman Yes white spirits is too oily
I've got an Acrylic Bath, will WD40 damage it? Also is that scrapper you're using plastic or metal?
No WD40 should not damage it. I know several people that have done this now using WD40. The scraper is a silicone removal tool made from plastic. Once the old silicone is cleaned off you clean the whole area with methylated spirits (denatured alcohol) and leave it a couple of hours before re-applying the silicone.
***** ok cheers mate. Gonna order the wee gadget for applying a new bead.
Bit off the subject but how can I remove pink grip off plastic cladding its on my canopy
+Barry Dermott Try using paint brush cleaner, but don`t use anything which is thinners based solvent, or the plastic cladding will be doomed. I assume it`s not solvent based pink grip on the plastic cladding!
great vid. iv heard that when re applying new sealeant the wd interfears with the bonding of the new sealeant. have u any experience with that
You would really need to remove any wd40 with a strong solvent as it contains a lot of lol i believe and clings very well
Ever use scrapers that use plastic razor blades?
No, I have never used one of those
Thanks for the comment 👍
Interesting use of WD40 but it would of been useful to know, how long you leave it on before removing silicone?
I did not leave it on long, perhaps 10 minutes or so.
Thanks for the comment
Hi Ultimate Handyman - Is WD40 safe to use around the grout when doing this job? My grout is light grey and I am scared of it leaving a dark coloured mark/stain on it. Thanks
It's not something I have tested but another TH-cam user said it did not stain his grout. Probably best if you can test it on an inconspicuous area first.
After using the WD-40 it's also a good idea to clean the whole area using methylated spirits (denatured alcohol)
But doesn't WD40 stop new silicon sticking? …..
You can clean that off using methylated spirits and clean rag ;-)
Isn't there a problem using WD-40 in that it leaves a residue if you intend resealing the joint?
+Philip Lindley
Yes, you would probably have to clean the WD-40 off sing white spirit or methylated spirits.
Does all that scrapping silicon off process leaves scratches on the surface of tiles?
No, not at all- providing you use a plastic scraper.
Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman Thanks for answer.. Great!
Thanks for saving me so much time and effort with your very sound advise
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Is it easy to silicone again. Have heard once wd40 has been applied to remove old silicone it is difficult to reapply with great success? Is this true? What preperation would help when reapplying? Thanks, great vid
As long as you clean the area with methylated spirits (denatured alcohol) and give it a while before re-applying the new silicone it should be fine.
Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman OK, have given it a good going over with white spirits but obviously it has gone deep into the grooving between sink and wall so fingers crossed. Will leave 24 hours as you say before reapplying.
@@ultimatehandyman if I was to re ain't the tiles would the tile paint adhere to the tiles OK it wd40 was used. Or is white spirits and a good clean still the answer? Thanks
Before painting any tiles you must follow the pain manufacturers instructions to the letter. I normally use Zinsser Perma white, before applying that you have to clean the area using methylated spirits and prime first using Zinsser 123
WOW Talk about a shocker. That stuff is like a Miracle Cure-All spray. Every home should have one! Perfect test though. Would you use that tool for removing internal window sealant before re-sealing ? And, what's it called please. Thank you.
Windows can be a real pain. I tried to remove some silicone on the outside of a window and WD-40 and silicone remove had no effect on the silicone.. I had to cut it away using a scraper blade and a multi tool.
The tool I used is just called a silicone remover tool/silicone scraper.
Thanks for the comment
I used isopropyl alcohol to remove caulking holding pedestal sink to the wall and floor- worked immediately.
Thanks for the comment
What can't you use that stuff for?
Not sure- yet
Thanks for the comment 👍
How would you clean everything after before applying fresh sealant? Meths? IPA?
I would definitely use methylated spirits.
Thanks for the comment
Great video But to be a fair test you needed to time it equally as the wd40 was on longer than the other stuff
However, he did state he was leaving them on for 15 mins. There looks like a jump when he transfers from one to the other, so presumably he paused the recording. Even if he did do them one after another the first strip didn't take much time to get off, & he sprayed the remover on first.
Thanks for information, Never knew WD 40 could do that.. .....just awesome 😊
+fitka kefas
Thanks for the comment ;-)
it s great for removing chewing gum too! ...bus driver trick
Can you use isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) to remove the wd40 before reapplying or does it have to be denatured alcohol?
It is not something that I have ever tried, but I assume it would work, (it should clean up any residue, then evaporate) like the denatured alcohol.
Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman thanks for getting back to me ^_^
With that special tool is there any need to use either silicon remover or wd40? Is it not the tool that is removing the silicon?
+Peter Savage
I'll try it with no chemicals soon.
Thanks for the comment
Hi what is the best to use for a bos com fitting and bos rubber that drips sligtly? I have replaced the push fit rubber for the shower pipe and also changed the bos com push fitting rubber, saves paying to have a whole new soil pump just drips sligtly. also someone has installed one of the cement weld bos the wrong way around is this removable with having a new soil pipe? Many Thanks Ian
The only thing I can think of is plumbers gold- fave.co/2V0iPpz
Thanks for the comment 👍
How long do you leave the WD40 before it starts to work?
10 minutes should do the trick.
There are some silicones though, that cannot not be removed with WD-40 or silicone remover, but they are normally used on windows etc. I once had to cut a load of it away a few years back using a multi-tool.
Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman thanks, WD40 did the trick!
Do you think tgat WD40 would work on removing the sealant around UPVC windows frames?
It depends! In some cases, you can just pull some silicone right off in almost one piece, as some silicones do not adhere well to masonry. There are a lot of variables though, such as the type of masonry and the formulation of the silicone used.
I’d be reluctant to use WD-40, because it might soak into the brick, causing adhesion problems with the new bead of silicone.
How do these compare to no silicone remover/WD-40? I’m left wondering if either is better than nothing at all since there is no control experiment.
th-cam.com/video/6LDvz-sqOn8/w-d-xo.html&t
The silicone remover gel is only aimed at removing/dissolving the small remnants of silicone left over.
Why are you thinking it would dissolve/aid removing a massive bead of silicone.
This is a test to see which works best. Obviously to test something, if I had scraped away most of the silicone before applying the silicone remover or WD-40, you would not see the difference!
A bit like when I tested out the grab adhesives in previous videos- I have never found the need to stick a block paver to a plasterboard partition 👍
Don't think any of them made any difference. Like you said, you're supposed to scrape off most of the silicone to start with. Bit puzzled why you didn't do that?
The WD-40 makes a huge difference!
Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman
Thanks mate. I'll try it next time 👍
@@ultimatehandyman
Well, I'll give it a go next time. Many thanks 👍
How do I need to clean the WD40 to prepare for the new silicone to be laid?
Methylated spirits (denatured alcohol) works well, with a clean rag. I often use blue paper towel, as in this example-
th-cam.com/video/6o5JVxvWuhQ/w-d-xo.html
👍
My bathroom shower has like silicone around the cormers, but it all came off or lose from leaking. Whats the best paste or something to stop the water from leaking through to my room
You need to remove any loose sealant, then clean the area thoroughly using methylated spirits (denatured alcohol), then reapply the silicone sealant.
The problem I have run into many times is where some "rocket scientist" (insert sarcasm here) uses silicone (instead of a painters caulk) on wall board and wood trim or has used silicone to fix cracks on wood doors on the raised panels. Will either products work without staining or leaving and oily residue that will cause finishing issues?
+Old Man from Scene Twenty Four
The silicone remover can be cleaned off afterwards using methylated spirits (denatured alcohol), I'd also do the same after using the WD-40 although some people have recommended WD-40.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
gasoline 95' would do it more efficiently!
What do you think of Cauking Strip instead of Silicone?
Never used them to be honest. I've always applied silicone.
I was told that the name of WD40 came from the inventor. It was his 40th attempt at making a Water Dispersant!.
I haven't researched this, but from years of having had personal experience with this product, I think it is fantastic at loosening rust from locks or embedded bolts but wouldn't even bother using it for this kind of work.
Elbow grease and knuckles get rid of mixed chemicals which were made 'fit for purpose'!.
Thanks for the comment.WD-40 is great stuff ;-)
Tried WD-40 yesterday. Doesn't work at all. Will not either soften or dissolve the transparent silicone in a bathroom I tried it on.
I tried it on some silicone externally a few days back and it did not seem to help much, but I also tried a heat gun and that did not help either. Perhaps it only works on certain silicones?I did try to recreate this test using just the silicone removal tool and it was much harder to remove so the WD-40 definitely did something. Thanks for the comment
Hi Ultimate Handyman! Can I use WD40 to get silicone off my pvc skirting board in the bathroom? And does WD40 remove grout leftover on tiles?
Thanks
Deb
Deborah McKinney the
I wonder if it would have been any different if you didn’t use the WD or remover at all reallr
This should answer that question-
th-cam.com/video/6LDvz-sqOn8/w-d-xo.html&t
Thanks for the comment 👍
I need to remove old silicone from the beading around the top my bath(where it meets the tiles) and reseal it. The last person who sealed it made a bit of a mess, sealant overloaded in the corners etc. I have the same tool as shown in the video and another plastic tool for smoothing the silicone after application. I want to keep the beading that's there already. I'm a very average at DIY. Anyone got any tips/tricks please.
Just take your time with it. After removing the silicone, ensure you clean the area thoroughly using methylated spirits (denatured alcohol), before reapplying the silicone 👍
@@ultimatehandyman Cheers man 👍👍
I think a Stanley works better no ?
Would WD40 work on removing silicone from brick? And if so, would it stain the brick like some forums suggest? Thanks.
No, probably not. I tried it once and it did not work, even silicone remover would not work. I used a multi tool and a blade attachment and used that to cut it away.
@@ultimatehandyman excellent, thanks. What kind of tool did you use, out of interest?
@@kierenjennings9237 a multi tool like this- th-cam.com/video/BUfcmTBkDuo/w-d-xo.html
With a blade like this- fave.co/3gOS0yl
100% silicone is dressed, removed or trimmed using mineral spirits as written by the manufacture on the tube. Silicone comes in several colors and is more durable than latex or acrylic mixes. WD-40 is used as a cleaner, water displacement as intended during WD-II for certain electronics but is also flammable. It may have mineral spirits in it, but is designed to evaporate and leaves no lubricating properties behind. I use it only on rubber hose removal and removal using a pointed tool designed for that job. The tool shown is a 90 degree cutter, but remember counter tops, shower drains and walls are not a perfect 90 degrees.
DK, ASE Master Tech since 1978, retired.