"nobody ever said copper slip was bad" - erm, no, coating everything in copper slip is definitely not good! Much better to use a very slight smear of silicone grease, especially around rubber parts like gaiters and boots. The only place I use copper slip/grease these days is on the threads of my diesel glow plugs. I used to use it on all sorts of things like wheel studs/bolts but those go on dry as they should be now. I've got a 2008 535d E61 which is about to receive a full rear suspension refurb with OE Lemforder parts this weekend and your video was very interesting because my car tramlines like hell when crossing the crown of the road during an overtake. I'm replacing all the arm and bushes so should fix the problem hopefully. Thanks.
It is seized in wil aluminium dust. Keep turning with ratchet and wd40. Don't be greedy; if it comes a little out, don't ge afraid to drive it back in to really work the wd40 in. Good luck.
Hi Michal, thanks very much for the support. I didn’t have to in the end, it was just a case of lifting the arm up enough to give me clearance. Bit of a pain and a tight spot but it did pop out without any further issues. 👍
@@FuelledLife Thank you for your answer. I will be tackling this friday together with the lower control arms, brake hoses, tie rod assemblys and brake fluid. One of the eccentric bolts on this arm is also broken off as I tried to take the car for alignment.
Restoration is underway! Hope this helps any fellow BMW saver. ☁️💡 Any questions about tackling yourself, let me know.
Mark the eccentric bolt before removal to keep the wheel aligned
That will not make the alignment correct. It won't hit it on the millimeter and there can be slight length differences in the old and new.
some people actually like a "WOBBBLY REAR END" 😏😏
Cheers for the support! You are definitely correct there but preferably not on a BMW. 😂
"nobody ever said copper slip was bad" - erm, no, coating everything in copper slip is definitely not good! Much better to use a very slight smear of silicone grease, especially around rubber parts like gaiters and boots. The only place I use copper slip/grease these days is on the threads of my diesel glow plugs. I used to use it on all sorts of things like wheel studs/bolts but those go on dry as they should be now.
I've got a 2008 535d E61 which is about to receive a full rear suspension refurb with OE Lemforder parts this weekend and your video was very interesting because my car tramlines like hell when crossing the crown of the road during an overtake. I'm replacing all the arm and bushes so should fix the problem hopefully. Thanks.
How did it go?
@@bidenisgod6978 I didn't get around to it yet but expect to do it over the Christmas break.
Bad shocks will also cause a very bad rear wobble and shifting while driving.
How did you get eccentric bolt out? Mines not coming out even using pry bar
It is seized in wil aluminium dust.
Keep turning with ratchet and wd40. Don't be greedy; if it comes a little out, don't ge afraid to drive it back in to really work the wd40 in. Good luck.
Hi, thanks for the video. Question, did you have to deflate the suspension airbag to get the bolt out?
Hi Michal, thanks very much for the support. I didn’t have to in the end, it was just a case of lifting the arm up enough to give me clearance. Bit of a pain and a tight spot but it did pop out without any further issues. 👍
@@FuelledLife Thank you for your answer. I will be tackling this friday together with the lower control arms, brake hoses, tie rod assemblys and brake fluid. One of the eccentric bolts on this arm is also broken off as I tried to take the car for alignment.
No torq specs?
You litterly skipped the only part i needed to see
What you after buddy? Can I help in any way?
@@FuelledLife We need to see how you got the eccentric bolt out! They are usually seized to the bushing. Lots of people cut them out.