Love the vid I’m doing this atm at my place, gotta shorter brass tee than that but making up for it with more brass pipe leading into a brass elbow at the pressure tank 🙌🏻
I have one question. I replaced my old low pressure 40 gallons tank from my well w/ a 86 gallons tank. Add 38 psi to the bladder, installed a new copper tee, a pressure gauge, a control switch ( set at 40/60 psi), a water spout , a relief valve a check valve between the pump & tank & replaced the old electrical box with a Franklin electrical control box! I then opened the farthest faucet on the house ( to bleed the air out) & turned the power to the pump! To my surprise, iron was coming out of the faucet! Let the water run for a long while & that issue was resolved but now water pressure still low! So I suspected iron & sediment still inside the house pipes & water faucets! I'm planning to install a whole house water filter plus a sediment filter with a drain valve! On the sediment filter with the valve I want to remove the filter and add 1 cup of chlorine to clean the water going to the house ! I will like to know what is your opinion on that! Your prompt response will be greatly appreciated! Ps: I got also a water softener with salt iron pellets to keep the water clean! Have a wonderful day!
The only well tee I can find around here is on with two outlets. One for the spicket drain and one for a 75lb pressure relief valve (is what it shows in pics anyway)
FYI, a year ago, when I was shopping for a hose spigot, every single hose spigot and boiler valve at my Lowe's were labeled "Not for Human Use." None of their spigots or boiler valves were lead free. (The fittings in the Pex section are all lead free.) I had to go to my plumbing supply store to get lead free valves.
Thank you for tge video. Did you install a check valve before or after the Tee? My 37 year old tank is showings its age, not holding pressure, and I am replacing it this weekend. Will be installing Tee on tank today so it is ready to be installed tomorrow. The kit I purchased came with a check valve and my existing tank has a check valve.
I know this video was made awhile ago but I have a question. If i use the stainless steel fitting, should I not use the cooper T then. I was told that you should not use both.
Should there be a check valve somewhere in this configuration? My current configuration has a check valve before the pressure gauge. I think my tank is bad and I plan on replacing soon. The Current tank has a 1in Tee and also want to know if going to a 1 1/4 will be an issue. the tank is going to be slightly larger in volume. Going from a Flotec FP7120(35gal) to a well x trol WX-250(44gal).
Man I can’t get this shit to stop leaking at all and definitely am not giving up. How the heck do you get the unions on each side of the t to tighten down all the way? I’ve used the tape on every thread but still can’t get this shit to stop leaking and I think that’s why I can’t build pressure it’s a brand new tank and switch and the unions the t is fairly new idk what I’m doing wrong
hi, what is your opinion on using a tee with a union? It would save alot of work to uninstall / reinstall the tank, however i'm concerned about the union leaking over time?
I'm a machinist you don't need to use Teflon tape on a pipe thread the threads are tapered and should tighten up at three revolutions and seal I manufacture thousands of these type of threads for automotive applications
I've been searching lots of videos to understand, and yours have been very helpful! Does it matter which side the switch and gauge are on (in vs out)? Is the nipple just to raise the switch above the gauge? Does it matter if the nipple is short (2") vs long (4")? Also, I noticed you don't use a pressure relief valve on your T. The one at Lowes comes with it, but the ones you use don't. Is there a reason you don't use it?
If the relief spring fails, it'll flood a basement. Not a big need for it. Use a 3 or 4 inch nipple to clear the gauge yes. It doesn't matter which side things are placed
@@h2omechanic thank you! I prefer ball valves, they are worth the extra money, also my well pressure tank is kicking on and off every few secs, gradually got worse, coming on at 40, off at 50, any suggestions?
@@laurasprute Mine does that when the check valve goes bad or gets a baby crawdad stuck in it. I put 2 valves in series, or possibly a bad pressure switch.
In my area it's common to place the pressure tank in a wellhouse (or leave it exposed) with the water well. Is there any advantage or disadvantage to placing the tank in the garage or under the house? My house is 90 feet from the well.
Thank you for making this video. My well pump started having issues this AM. You're helping me to educate myself on how this all works.
Great advice regarding spec and care if you use pvc fittings with the brass tee.
Love the vid I’m doing this atm at my place, gotta shorter brass tee than that but making up for it with more brass pipe leading into a brass elbow at the pressure tank 🙌🏻
I have one question. I replaced my old low pressure 40 gallons tank from my well w/ a 86 gallons tank. Add 38 psi to the bladder, installed a new copper tee, a pressure gauge, a control switch ( set at 40/60 psi), a water spout , a relief valve a check valve between the pump & tank & replaced the old electrical box with a Franklin electrical control box! I then opened the farthest faucet on the house ( to bleed the air out) & turned the power to the pump!
To my surprise, iron was coming out of the faucet!
Let the water run for a long while & that issue was resolved but now water pressure still low! So I suspected iron & sediment still inside the
house pipes & water faucets!
I'm planning to install a whole house water filter plus a sediment filter with a drain valve! On the sediment filter with the valve I want to remove the filter and add 1 cup of chlorine to clean the water going to the house !
I will like to know what is your opinion on that!
Your prompt response will be greatly appreciated!
Ps: I got also a water softener with salt iron pellets to keep the water clean!
Have a wonderful day!
Great Video and Awesome Info! Thanks 👍😎
Thanks!
The only well tee I can find around here is on with two outlets. One for the spicket drain and one for a 75lb pressure relief valve (is what it shows in pics anyway)
What’s the reason that you don’t use the switches with the low pressure cutoff? Seems like it would protect the pump?
I have listened and watched and learned alot from you. But I still have a problem- no water filling the tank back up.
Great video, very useful. I bought a "union" fitting tank tee, do you suggest using pipe dope on the union? Thanks
FYI, a year ago, when I was shopping for a hose spigot, every single hose spigot and boiler valve at my Lowe's were labeled "Not for Human Use." None of their spigots or boiler valves were lead free. (The fittings in the Pex section are all lead free.)
I had to go to my plumbing supply store to get lead free valves.
Having this exact issue, even at Lowes and Home Depot I can't find lead free hose bibs.
Thank you for tge video. Did you install a check valve before or after the Tee? My 37 year old tank is showings its age, not holding pressure, and I am replacing it this weekend. Will be installing Tee on tank today so it is ready to be installed tomorrow. The kit I purchased came with a check valve and my existing tank has a check valve.
I know this video was made awhile ago but I have a question. If i use the stainless steel fitting, should I not use the cooper T then. I was told that you should not use both.
Stainless and copper/brass is much more neutral than galvanized and brass.
Is there a reason for the nipple on the pressure switch connection, or is it just a matter of using it to connect 2 female ends together?
It's called a twist nut. Just holds the plastic cap on to cover the electrical.
Should there be a check valve somewhere in this configuration? My current configuration has a check valve before the pressure gauge. I think my tank is bad and I plan on replacing soon. The Current tank has a 1in Tee and also want to know if going to a 1 1/4 will be an issue. the tank is going to be slightly larger in volume. Going from a Flotec FP7120(35gal) to a well x trol WX-250(44gal).
Yes. It will be on the end of the tee approaching the waterline in.
Man I can’t get this shit to stop leaking at all and definitely am not giving up. How the heck do you get the unions on each side of the t to tighten down all the way? I’ve used the tape on every thread but still can’t get this shit to stop leaking and I think that’s why I can’t build pressure it’s a brand new tank and switch and the unions the t is fairly new idk what I’m doing wrong
where’s your check valve? Also, where is the pressure relief valve? 🤔
hi, what is your opinion on using a tee with a union? It would save alot of work to uninstall / reinstall the tank, however i'm concerned about the union leaking over time?
I'm a machinist you don't need to use Teflon tape on a pipe thread the threads are tapered and should tighten up at three revolutions and seal I manufacture thousands of these type of threads for automotive applications
Is the pvc fitting the inflow or outflow?
In flow. Pex is typically the out going
Does there have to be a pressure reducer at some point between the tank and the filter before going into the home?
That's what the pressure switch does! It kills the pump before too much pressure hits the house
Can you tell me where you purchased the 1” control T? I need that exact one but can’t find it
www.h2o-mechanic.com
Lowes also sells them.
I've been searching lots of videos to understand, and yours have been very helpful! Does it matter which side the switch and gauge are on (in vs out)? Is the nipple just to raise the switch above the gauge? Does it matter if the nipple is short (2") vs long (4")? Also, I noticed you don't use a pressure relief valve on your T. The one at Lowes comes with it, but the ones you use don't. Is there a reason you don't use it?
If the relief spring fails, it'll flood a basement. Not a big need for it.
Use a 3 or 4 inch nipple to clear the gauge yes. It doesn't matter which side things are placed
any reason you can't use a ball valve instead of a gate valve?
You can use either. Ball valves are far superior & more expensive but they have a longer life span than a gate valve.
@@h2omechanic thank you! I prefer ball valves, they are worth the extra money, also my well pressure tank is kicking on and off every few secs, gradually got worse, coming on at 40, off at 50, any suggestions?
@@laurasprute Mine does that when the check valve goes bad or gets a baby crawdad stuck in it. I put 2 valves in series, or possibly a bad pressure switch.
@@laurasprutebladder in tank has failed
"Concise"
You are never supposed to put the pipe dope on the female threads,,, just gets pushed into he system causing problems down stream.
Where is check valve? and no low -limit cut-off switch!!!!!!
In my area it's common to place the pressure tank in a wellhouse (or leave it exposed) with the water well. Is there any advantage or disadvantage to placing the tank in the garage or under the house? My house is 90 feet from the well.
It’s probably depending on the climate for the area.
I'm thinking the same thing. Did you figure this out? Advantage or disadvantage? Climate is northern Michigan.