@@h2omechanic Thank you for the video and the reply. Sorry for this long-winded response, but thank you if you can assist me and anyone else in a similar situation. Trying to diagnose if it's a faulty check valve at the submersible pump or crack in well pipe at pump or on the line coming into house without pulling pump since we're still in the negative temperatures here in interior Alaska and 100 miles from the nearest well drilling specialist. Cannot see if there's any water spots on ground outside from well casing to the house, since we're under several feet of snow and ice for a few more months (usually thaws in April/May, with water not fully soaking into ground/evaporating until June/July). I can visually see the water rushing back down the well pipe via the whole house water filter with clear canister installed just after the well pipe that leads into crawlspace from underground (pre-expansion tank). The canister will drain down to less than 25% water and fill up with air approximately 75%. This happens after the water pressure drops from 50 down to 30 psi when using water and the pressure switch kicks on at that time. Pressure tank is set at 28 psi. There's a second check valve right before the expansion tank/pressure switch, so harder to diagnose since the gauge doesn't lose pressure over time because that check valve prevents pressure drop and is working. After the pressure tank water is exhausted and pressure is down to 28 psi the faucets start sputtering with air and spurts of water, and then several seconds later the water will rush back into the filter canister from the well pipe along with a bunch of air bubbles (delay of water filling canister). Once the water visually fills the filter canister again very rapidly, the water at faucets will continue sputtering before releasing brown sediment, and this takes approximately 20-30 seconds to clear up. Once the sputtering stops, a few more seconds pass before the sediment clears, and then the water is clear and the pressure tank starts building pressure again to 50 psi. This cycle repeats every time the pressure switch calls for water, and there has ALWAYS been water hammer once the pump cut off (the well pipe to crawl space will shake, and it has a foam "pool noodle" sleeve around it to deaden the noise). Been this way since we bought the home and didn't come up during inspection. Well and well pump installed 2019 when home built. Given the sediment that gets washed up every time, I was leaning towards a semi-educated guess/DIY diagnosis of a crack in the well pipe right above the pump, since that would create a water swirl that stirs up sediment that is getting sucked back into the pump and eventually the pump fills with enough water to overcome the air in the pipe and comes racing back up. After finding your video, now I'm wondering if it could be the check valve at the pump being bad. Again, sorry for the long drawn out reply/description. In your experience, has a bad check valve at the pump caused something similar? I.e. air in the well pipe, followed by sediment brown water before clearing again, only to repeat again, every time? Or do all signs point to a cracked pipe? Thanks again for reading. I know time is valuable.
@@h2omechanic I think my check valve is leaking so I'm going to add one just before the pressure tank. Will that usually get them to stop back leaking?
@@mickjager5974 no. Itll actually cause an air pocket to form in the line when the pump leaks down. Every morning itll cycle & send a small burst of air into the tank. The only (half a$$) way to fix it easy is to add a check valve directly at the top of the well. But it still may cause the air issue, just less bc it takes the "trench pipe" out of the equation in regards to the drain back. I'd consider it a band-aid, but 100% will stop the cycling. If you notice air during a shower or flush a toilet, now you'll understand why this happened.
I subbed and rang the bell ...love the practical info for the novice ... I'm a 66 yr old retired builder who cut his teeth in the golf course irrigation business 40 years ago ... so I know a bit about wells and plumbing ... bought an old historic house to restore 6 years ago ... no info on well and the service guy never returned my calls with history ... 3 years later, no water one morning, simple diagnostic, 30 year old controller circuit board fried (Franklin 3 wire) ... simple fix ....then 3 years later, last week no water, controls good, pressure switch good ... both red and black (230 had power down into the casing) ... checked OHM reading for 1/2 hp, it was twice the specs, so bad motor ... called 5 well guys, only 1 returned my call (prior service guy) said he was booked out 5 weeks and said it would be $2,500 to pull and new pump ... so I looked at the dog the next morning and said, hey, we're going to be Well Guys ... eastern PA right on the Delaware River, 60 ft above it, so I know pump could not be that deep ... good quality sanitary seal, 1 1/4 poly with good brass fittings ... pulled the pump by hand, dog was no help and he's a 100 lb cart dog (bouvier des flandres) but he was supportive (from the shade) ... half way up (40 ft) I saw the wires were severely chaffed/open, corroded copper showing ... finally got the pump out and checked Ser # manufacture date ... 1987, 1/2 hp Franklin Electric with a Morris pump ... motor case was weeping rust .... Damn thing was 32 years old, 3 wire, red/black/yellow, wires were that old as well ... figured they didn't owe anyone anything (although house was a summer home for 60 years and empty for 20 of those last years before I bought it from their eastate (elderly couple) so it didn't have a lot of "run time" ... I did make up a double male garden hose and attached to my nice elderly neighbor next door, so I have water (I do a lot of "fixing and favors" for him and his wife, so he was glad to help out there .... so good news is I had watched all your well videos, so I ordered online, a good 3/4 HP Flint Walling pump and 100 ft of new 10 ga wire and WP splicing kit (local supplier only had 2 wire F&W's) ... and even found that 3M self sealing silicon tape on amazon (came today) got 6 rolls for $15 ... I was going to replace the torque arrestor and wire guards and rig a safety line until I watch your video ... and I agree, way too much stuff down a well casing to get stuck or go wrong ... So I'm only going with the pump, additional 1 1/4 brass check valve, and well taped wires (pump is at 80 ft, so easy to pull) ... Franklin controller was new 3 yr ago and well as new breaker/cut out switch, new pressure switch, pressure gauge and expansion tank, new spin down filter, followed by double GE Carbon filters ... all new Pex throughout the house ... anyway, long winded, but wanted to thank you for the tip on going with a "Clean" install without all the questionable "add on's" that could cause future trouble ... love that 3M self stick, self seal tape ... and I have 4 rolls of 3M Super "33" as well (your other tip) ... Pump and wire will be here tomorrow ... (I also took your idea and used an old cart wheel rim and build a small wood frame over my 5 ft deep well pit to support and guide the poly pipe on the way out (and back in) .. best of luck to you in your business ... you'll do well (no pun intended) with your logical and professional approach ...
Your channel saved the bacon for me today. Lost water pressure last night at 10pm, had it solved by this afternoon. Long story short, 280' deep, new pump and wiring
@@h2omechanic no doubt, your explanations were simple to understand, and the knowledge you shared saved me a couple thousand bucks I'm sure.. my brother is an electrician, so that helped some lol
Thank-You! For your video! I moved here 10 years ago. It’s a 30 year old house. We’ve been having air from all the water outlets for about 2 months. When the weather is dry especially. When the weather is raining or moist there’s no problem. I had a plumber out but he referred me to a pump company. The pump company did not respond to my email.
I JUST pulled a Red Jacket 1/3 hp 230 volt set at 100 ft and it worked until 3 weeks ago..it's a 1973!!! Gotta be a record I'm in SW Missouri,love this channel!
Your are videos are awesome. You have a natural talent for teaching. For years, I’ve tried to explain to people that great teachers are born, not made.
I really enjoy your videos. I never knew how wells worked, were installed or repaired until you explained it. You do a great job. Thanks for your time.
I appreciate this video. I am replacing a pump. My expansion tank went bad and I have no idea how long it was bad. I pulled the pump, cleaned the screen sat the pump in a can full of water and let it run. It got a little better flow after a while but I didn't think how much should have been flowing. It was definitely no where near 5 gpm. Unfortunately I put it back down and got a little water pressure but never reached cut out. I just pulled it again this morning and I am heading to buy a new one. This video really helped convince me. I am kinda handy but people who do this had me believing it was something else. It is stranded wire so I feel the likelihood of a break was low. The pump is 18 years old. Thanks again
Once you pull it out again, just inspect the wire carefully looking for rubbed off wire coating/ exposed copper. I have a well pump install video that would be great for you to watch. It's 20 minutes long but filled with great info.
First of all I stumbled on your channel as a new homeowner on a well system and appreciate the video thus far. Installed a 60/40 pressure switch to step up the pressure from a 50/30. All was well for a week and I was enjoying the increase in pressure. One morning I noticed the pump running continuously when I woke up early. No water running or open faucets on in the house. Pressure stuck around 20-25 psi with the pump/breaker on. Once I turn off the pump at the breaker the water pressure drops off to 0 and I can hear running down hole. No obvious leaks above ground. No obvious (to me) pressure tank issues. So I guess I need to bring the ole pump up and inspect the piping/fittings/check valves down hole?
You are correct. Itll be a split pipe or cracked fitting. I'm going to guess & say when you pull it out the pipe is going to be very thin. I00psi. Id replace it with 160-200 psi pipe. Either way your going in the right direction. My "Well Q&A" Playlist on my channel has 25 videos that will help you. Especially the install videos, step by step.
@@h2omechanic hey just wanted to give you a quick update! Since your advice was so helpful. Line had a cracked fitting where my black roll poly pipe fit into a galvanized section. Got it fixed and now we have the best pressure and water flow ever! Big Props to you man! couldn’t have figured it out and fixed it for under $20 without the help! Thank you! Anytime you plan on coming to Texas, give me a holler!
Dear sir, You are a brave individual, I would never be confident enough to offer diagnostics based on even my own uninformed anecdotal observations. God Bless and best wishes.
Been subscribed for a couple months, watched a lot of videos. Asked questions 2 - 3 times, didn't get any response. Will keep trying. 😊 1) Thinking to put pressure tank and connect to the pump about 10' under the ground to eliminate heating well house in the winter season. A) is it a good idea? B) how to do it? C) Should I install another pressure tank under the house in the crawl space? Well is about 30 yards away from the house.
Brass and 100+ psi poly, definitely 200psi poly for the bottom 200+ of a 400 drop. Check valve in the middle. On a long drop also use a 3 inch brass mpt to ins on the bottom of the pitless. Im in Ontario Canada though. So cool to watch your videos because its the same game depending on the landacape and geology. As a well tech, these videos are great.
Thank you so much for such an informative video on the well pump itself, I found like a gazillion videos on the water tank and pressure switch but took me all day to find this. I was at my wits end trying everything I watched so now I am off to see if this is the issue.
Thank you for this information, we just lost pressure at home. I checked the tank, swith and still no pressure went outside to see if something was visible and there was all the water around the well gushing out bringing sand out to the grass..
Hello. Very in formative.👍 I have SOME air in my lines. Bled pressure tank and bladder has 27lbs on 30/50 switch. Pressure with water appears to be holding. Pump was replaced 18 yrs ago with sched 80 pvc feed line I believe in casing. I know it was plastic. I’m thinking there may be a crack at the pump. The well is 54’ deep pump is set at 50’ static is 37’. Do you think the pump or fittings are the culprit. How difficult is it to pull if that’s what you think needs to be done
Great video! Thanks for the education. I am starting to think it's the pump at my house. I replaced the water tank initially, which said 1992 on the date of manufacturing, so was happy about the life out of that. Then I replaced the pressure switch with one with the arm on the side of it. That was a mistake overall, as i had to push the arm up and allow pressure back into the system. So I returned that and got a standard 40-60 psi switch yesterday, and it immediately went to 40psi. Thought that was the solution until pressure dropped again, ugh! So it gradually does build up, but the brand new switch does not kick on and off. I adjusted the range clockwise and it simply doesn't go up??? It's very frustrating. This AM, the pressure was good, although, a ton of air and sputtering coming out of showers for the first 20 seconds or so. The pressure was at 40 when I checked it, but now creeping back down to around 35 and convinced it won't build back up once again, and have the pressure switch cranked at least 4 full turns. Any help or feedback would be appreciated. Thanks again for the video.
Regarding your video titled, "Most Common Reasons For No Water" I would insert a comment at 10:42 while the system is being shut down. After turning off the power to the system, open a spigot and let the water run. Watch the pressure gauge drop to zero. If it does not read zero, then the gauge needs replaced. This caused a question for me because my pressure gauge never dropped below 30psi. Once I replaced the pressure gauge, the rest of the trouble shooting became easy. Thanks for some great explanation and instruction.
Just got a new house and i've got some air in my lines. Pitless adapter. Age and type of pump unknown. Owner had notes written that originally said water started 4 foot down, well is 45 feet deep. I popped the cap and looked down the well and the water isn't 4 foot down, probably more like 30-40 feet. That's got me a little concerned. From what I could see in the well it looks like a wack/bad install job in general so tomorrow i'm pulling the pump to take a look. The pressure tank is also on the older side so i'm replacing that just as a preventative measure to protect the pump. Pump works well, good amperage, good pressure. Lines are just sputtering often and it's got me a little concerned something is about to fail.
Having a lot of air in my system. Not so much on the cold side. Mostly the hot. Air comes and goes. Sometimes no air for a couple of days. Pump is cycling as it should even though its 40 years old. Any Ideas would be appreciated.
Great description of submersible well pumps. 5 stars. Where would you start with a house that is only pumping 35 psi? The last time my well had poor pressure we replaced the pump and the water supply leading to the house was cracked. The pump was fine.
Kill the breaker & look at the gauge at the tank, if it drops to 0 psi, you have a leak again somewhere. If you wait 1 hour & turn the system back on and air eventually comes out of a faucet, that's an indication that the leak is down the well . Possibly a fitting cracked or a hole rotted in a metal fitting. Exactly like the pumps in this video
what might cause a no water situation but ONLY after over an hour of pumping? We have a lawn sprinkler system that was turned on for the season in May. The sprinklers run for a duration of 2 hours every other day and this system has been in service for ~8 years. This no water condition is a new phenomena this year. After pumping for over 1 hours time, there is no water in the line/tank. You can repeat the situation like clockwork but only after 1 hours time (it is not an intermittent issue). I am leaning toward this being a well/aquifer problem, not a pump issue - I think the well is running out of water to pump. Well pump age is questionable but it's not THAT old. We have had no pressure issues or other water issues any other time of day or with normal usage. This only happens when the sprinklers are in use for over an hour. To make matters worse, it's my father's water system and he REFUSES to believe there is a problem so my diagnosis has to be discreet until I can further conclude what the issue may be. He also refuses to turn the sprinklers off. :::facepalm::: thanks! Great content by the way!
@lifestooshort81 possible that you are simply over Pumping the well. Needs more time to recover during heavy usage. Or you have a bad pressure tank, that'll cause the pump to cycle on/off/on/off alot more frequently which overheats the pump. After 5 minutes the pump would cool down and run again. Both have similar signs, so inspect your tank, make sure its not faulty. Bc if it is, it'll get worse over time.
@@h2omechanic thank you! Overpumping the well is my educated guess at this moment and the validation from a professional helps me work to prove my case (my father second guesses everything I say). Im planning on doing a static level test this weekend before and during the sprinklers running to confirm/debunk if it’s a water level thing. I don’t think the pressure tank is even filling enough/building enough pressure for the pump to cycle: I mean once the sprinklers turn on, the pump continuously runs to feed water to the sprinklers.
I pulled my pump . Found several little holes on the first stick of pvc. Being told I have a bladder or a tank .I haven’t yet found either. It’s a old homestead I own. Well was already there and now wanting to build
Do all pumps come with a check valve, or is it something added in special circumstances? Second question, where is the bottom of the casing in relation to the pump? ie does the pump extend out the bottom of the casing, or is the pump protected inside the casing to prevent it from rocking and damaging itself or plugging up against adjacent rock and mud?
H2o machanic, i watched your vids for a while. In alaska, and long way from a well man when they come arround 125 to 225 miles away. They normally like to stack jobs to justify trip in. Moved into house with well and off CITY water.. I was told the well was 240 foot deep, i dont know the static depth. And of course no well log with the house. The pump runs it will build pressure to 32 to 45 psi. When running depending which guage i use. Running 30- 50 pressure switch. The pressure tank when empty rings like bell and light. The pressure at the schrader valve read 32, lowered to 29psi. Still no effect... Watched couple other vids. Barrowed amp meter reads 6amps on both power legs on start up and run. There is 120 on each leg of power and the load side 240 when on. We can turn off the breaker, water will hold all night untill tank is empty of may be 6 to 10 gals (60 gal tank). We turn the pump on with the breaker and water is back, but the pump will not raise it to the high limit. The pump will run untill i go and open the contacts mannually.. then again if circut left on , water flows unill low limit kicks pump on. Then repeat. I dont know how old the pump is. House was partially used last few years. The well was run dry a few years ago during a summer pressure washing. But it functioned for the next few years. Winters comming would like to get it fixed before snow hits in six to eight weeks.... my wife likes showers and like her..
I have 3 wells at my farm pumping into 2 3000 gallon water tanks, so no head pressure other than the well depth. In the heat of the summer i need all 3 wells at peak performance to supply my farm. 2 wells are 500' and 1 is 700' all 1.5hp F&W with control boxs. Recently the 700' well seems to be over pumping itself. It was rated at 7gpm but has always produced around 9gpm and never had an issue for 8 years now. It seems to be running out of water and it will trip the pump protection device. I pinched the outlet valve down to 4.5 gpm and it will run there without tripping. So i guess that one is running out of water. The one that i want your opinion on is the 500' well and i believe it has a 15gpm pump set at around 380' It was rated at 15gpm but has never been able to produce that much. Maybe 8 or 10gpm consistently. This week it was down to 1.5 to 2gpm. I checked the amps and both legs are between 9.6 and 9.8 so i dont think its running out of water or the pump is worn out or the amps would be much lower correct? Your video made me think that it could have a crack in the pipe. Schedule 140 pvc 1.250" but it would have to be in the casing because there is no sediment coming out of the pipe. The thing is that after 4 days of 1.5 to 2 gpm its now putting out 6gpm. I could use a little help. Any ideas? Thank in advance, J
Ok, so I'd say you could definitely have a broken pipe down the hole. A simple test to see if its broken is to open a spickot that's hooked to only that 1 well. Kill the power & open the faucet & put your hand on it. If it leaks, it'll cause a vacuum on you hand. It may take 60sec but you'll definitely notice it. If you never get a suction feeling & the water seems to stay there, then there's no leak in the drop pipe. You pump is just simply worn out. At 500ft id recommend a 5 or 7 gpm pump head. The water level being so deep, a lower gpm pump is definitely required! I'd have 5GPM 1.5Hp in all 3 wells. The 9.6-9.8 amps is perfect for that size pump, it's actually slightly under normal load #s. But try the suction test & let me know
Very helpful, I have been having air, low pressure in my water, mostly in the hot for whatever reason, I had a plumber come out, he said it was the Well, I called a Well company they said it is inside the house and that there was nothing wrong with the well, to call a plumber, I called another plumber they said it was the water heater, switched it, still have the same issue, came back today says its likey the connections from the well to the house. They are coming back Monday to run pressure test on the connection, what do you think, So far I have spent $1700, still have the problem. I was quoted $450 for the test on Monday. I have shorts on the issue on my channel for reference.
Hi amazing video. Our pump pumps up to 20 psi when I turn the breaker off it does not drop down it just stays at 20 ; when I open the Spicket at the well it drops down to zero when I close the Spicket it goes back up to 20 what do you think the problem might be ? Thank you so much for your help !
Sounds to me like the pumps old & worn out or possible cracked pipe in well. Or a leak in yard or under home. If u find no leaks, the pump needs to be pulled out of the well
Pump was replaced a year ago and has a sand filter attached. It would easily fill my 40 gallon, or so, tank from 35 to 50 psi in about 3 or 4 minutes. Now if it take 5 or 6, but if the pressure gets down to about 10 if I’m filling something, it likes to never fill back up. This evening is hovered around 10 psi for several minutes before I cut the switch and cleaned one of the two above ground filters and fired it back it up. That let it get over the 10 psi mark but it took about 20 minutes to get to 50 psi.
Sounds like the well doesn't have enough water in it to fill the tank. Leave the breaker off all night & see if it helps. If it helps, look for a leak somewhere. Or call a well company bc you might need a Hydro-Fracing process done on the well to increase flow rate of the well. If any filter is plumbed before the tank, that most likely the issue. All filters go after tank.
@@h2omechanic I’ll call the guys that set it up. It has two filters pre-tank. One on the pump that’s about 6 feet long, one going into the tank and one coming out. The set up was replaced in June of 2020 but it had also been replaced one year prior. They warrantied the whole thing and that was nice. The pump is at 653’ and the SWL was at about 40 a year ago.
I got low water pressure. Seemed to be gradually happening. Don’t seem to be the switch or the tank. My next step was to see if the galvanized lines after the pump are clogged. Losing my mind trying to figure out the problem. Any info would be appreciated at this point!
If you kill the power & the water psi gauge drops to 0 without you using any, that says that you have a bad pipe or fitting in the well with a hole in it. The hole slowly gets bigger & pressure gets weaker. This video is exactly what you will find.
We have a deep well pump, when my wife starts shower, I hear water and what sounds like air surging in lines as well, possibly sounds like cavitation. Using pressure washer is surge of water, wait for pressure to build then more water. Don't know what pipe we have, seeing your broken pipes, was a help. The motor torque twists the lines. We hv high rust, don't know how old pump is.
I have a well that’s 50’ deep and the water column starts at about 25’. It’s a very good well, so I’m certain I’m not running my well dry. I have a zoeller pump that doesn’t require a control box that’s less than a year old in it and all of a sudden I’ve started having trouble with the pump not kicking on, on its own. The pressure switch shows to be still within its operating range but I’m not getting the water to my 3 water troughs with automatic floats. I don’t have any leaks in pipes underground to my knowledge or that have surfaced. But as soon as I turn the breaker off and pull my pump up a couple feet from its pitiless adapter and then reset into the adapter I turn the breaker back on and then make sure the pressure switch contacts are together the pump will turn back on and pressurize the system and fill the Troughs and then the trough floats will cut the water off and then the next day I get home from work and the same issue. Any insight as to what could be the issue? Is the pump going into thermal overload or am I losing prime? I don’t have a check valve directly above the pump other than what’s installed internally in the pump. The check valve is about 60’ from the pump where my pressure tank and filters are located. Any info will be appreciated, thanks!
You need a clamp system amp meter. Clamp Around one single wire white or black. It should read 6.5 amp or if it's 13-20 amp, the pumps dead & is over heating. That's the only true way to test the pump. If its good, then I'd remove the check valve from the tank. The one at the pump is all you need. If the switch is old,replace it.
Great video, thank you. Our hand-dug well is in a creek down a steep bank from our house. recently, the volume of water going through the system is less than half of what it normally is. The pressure is great for the first few seconds when you turn on a tap, but then it drops off very quickly. The creek is fairly low right now, but last year at this time we didn't have any problems. I'm thinking it could be a check valve issue but would appreciate any thoughts. thank you!
I bought one of the junk lowes pumps. A little over a year and pressure it only around 30. I don't think it's cracked though. Seems to hold ok. Drops a tad when I turn it off but that might be from the pressure tank pushing back at such a low pressure. I keep finding weird plastic shavings floating on top of the water. It's got to be from the pump. But my water keeps having weird pulp in it that looks like orange juice pulp. And sometimes I get this stuff that looks just like dryer lint. Some other things, just weird stuff coming up. The water looks clear though. I can't imagine where it could be even coming from. I thought perhaps a cracked septic but I don't think it could make it that far over and through all the dirt and rocks. So bizarre. Unless the last owner who were addict's and trashed the place had thrown something down there. But the cap was on and it looks like it hadn't been off in ages. But who knows, maybe something from decades ago was dropped in there. I have plenty of filtering after the pump so lets hope a new high quality pump does the trick and doesn't break like the last one.
The 10 impellers are made of plastic and Teflon coated. They rotate at 3450rpm. The impellers were coming apart and that was the shavings you saw. It worn out the tolerance and couldn't build pressure anymore. Typically a failed bearing happens often in cheap brands & the impeller stack starts wobbling & rubbing & not running true. It's all too common. That's for your comment! It helps others with similar issues.
@@h2omechanic I ended up buying a more expensive American made pump. I put it in myself. Dang that was rough pulling up 120 feet of water filled line and pump myself!! This new pump is drastically better quality. Made from Lots of metal instead of cheap plastic. I think the bearing did fail on the last one and it shaved off a lot of the impeller and probably the weird stuff coming up was from shavings from the sides or something. Everything working great now. I'll always pay more for a good pump, not worth it to take a chance. I didn't even want to buy the cheap Lowes pump I knew that would bite me in the rear, but I was new in town and needed one fast and hoped for the best.
Amazing video, great job, subscribed! I have air coming into the house water lines only after I haven't used the water for a while, like overnight, and only when it first comes on. If I keep the water flowing, like when outside water my plants, I don't have additional air in the lines (even after the pump kicks on again). Thinking this might be a crack in the well pipe which allows air in while the pump is at rest (water leaking out over time), perhaps somewhere above the water line. Does that make sense to you? I plan to pull the pump and check. Thanks for any advice.
Your on the right track! It's probably not a crack...but could be. It's typically a leaking check valve in the pump. If you have a check valve at the tank or at the top of the well, then that ones holding pressure back & the one in the pump is leaking slowly. If the pumps old, just replace it honestly. Or if it's less than 8 years old, add a check valve on top of your pump & re install! Your definitely in the right direction!
My water pressure is good as soon as you turn on the faucet, but slowly gets weaker and weaker. I am pretty sure the bladder and pressure switch are good. What do you think?
Hi hope your channel is doing well 3 years later. I am experiencing air in the water along with tonight I was walking by the well head and air was shooting out of the weep hole on the small pipe next to the well head itself. We have I believe the farm style well with a pressure tank mounted just below the surface of the ground. The pressure will spike when the water is shut off to 80 psi then drop quickly with poor flow. ( contacts pop on and off if the tap is opened before the iron curtain). I have replaced the float several times but have not prefilled the air in some time. Would low air pressure in the tank cause the weep hole to spout for a good long time.
I have air coming out of the water hose installed before the pressure tank , I just replaced the well pump about three months ago, the pressure gauge stays at the same pressure, not loosing any pressure. Just air coming out of the water hose at different times.
l'm interested in a property about 1000 miles away. He said it has a well but the pump don't work. Any suggestions? Should l have a plumber check it out or just go out there and deal with it and try and fix it myself?
Great video…having an issue with ours and need a little advice. Replaced tank (was water logged) and pressure switch (they had a 30-50 on a 40-60 tank) and it’s still not like it used to be. Pressure never gets high enough to shut off, and I think it’s been this way for a couple of months. This is a second home for us, so all we noticed was a significant increase in the electric bill. I think it’s just run itself to death.
@@h2omechanic thanks…that’s what I’m thinking now as well. We had that freeze here in TX two years ago, and it probably made everything more brittle. I think the same is true for pressure tank…probably plasticized the rubber. When I replaced the tank, it was full of water. Pressure will hold at 10 psi after power is off, so probably a small split and pressure equalizes at that point.
@@h2omechanic I can’t say thanks enough for all the great info and content! Would never have tackled this one without your insight. My problem was actually the pump…not sure, but think maybe torque is what caused top cap to bend and that is where the leak was coming from. New pump, proper wiring and wrap, added a torque arrestor, and when powered on, pressure immediately banged up to 60+ and is now working like a champ! Did it all on a cold, sleeting TX night Thursday, but wasn’t that bad overall. Really appreciate the video content and you helped us get things back to normal. Keep up the great work!
Thank u for ur videos.. ur awesome. My pump, bladder, and switch was installed in 07, myer pump... bladder and switch is bad, house has no water pressure, should I assume pump is bad as well
I had a minor water leak in a pipe under my house, I got the leak repaired and ever since I’ve had a HUGE amount of air coming from my well. Plumber said the leak could have cause my check valve to go bad from running constantly. Have you ever had this issue?
Thank you very much for the video. This is exactly what the problem with my well that you explained here. I have a brand new pump put in in March 2016. Two weeks ago new pressure. I thought it my be the pressure switch so I switched it and same problem remain. When I turned on the power the pressure would only go up to 10 psi. When I turned off pressure dropped to zero and I could hear the water flowing back down to the well. I contacted the company that installed it and they are going to charge $3,000 to replace the pump. Therefore, in this difficult time I rather save some money, so will be diy. Do you have any recommendation for a good and long lasting pump currently out there in the market?
I have trouble with my well pump. Somehow, the pump shorts out and doesn't get electricity when it is hanging normally. The pump comes back online only if I pull up the wire maybe a foot up, therefore making the wires tighter. At that pulled up position, it works fine until my iron removal system regenerates/backwashes... I had two companies stop by, and they just offer to replace the well pump which will cost ~$10,000. Do you have any suggestions on troubleshooting this? Thanks so much for your expertise and your time!!
Last year my pump ran fine. This year, none of the zones would come on. The pump is running and the hydrant at the pump discharges water but with very low pressure. I can put my thumb on the hydrant and stop the flow. I bought a cheap pump two or three years ago and I’m wondering if I got what I paid for. When it turn on my system, all the heads dribble water. Kind of at a loss here. Think the pump wore itself out?
Have a well pump it keep pressure on the house side but when no valves are in the pump kick on pressure up to shut off it hesitate then shut off but the pressure either stay off or kick on then loses prime
Standard in my area is 100 psi poly pipe. Wish the standard was higher. I can't even install a cycle stop valve because back pressure would exceed 100 psi
I enjoyed your video, but you didn't so a solution for my problem. I pulled my pump, it was only 100 ft of pipe. I placed the pump in a kitchen garbage can full of water and turned the pump on. Water went everywhere, it was coming out between the stainless steel housing and built-in castiron check valve on top of the pump. I'm thinking there is an O-ring that went bad. The stainless steel housing has threads inside so I'm assuming it will unscrew from around the pump. Is that right? It's a 3/4 hp Gould pump and has 3.4 - 3.5 resistance from line 1 and line 2. No shorts. Look forward to your response.
I have replaced everything minus the pump. I’m getting water for approximately 10 mins and I loose pressure. I was told the pump is going Thermal coupler was going out. That even though it was in the water, when it got hot it would shut it down. If I let it wait 1520 minutes it will run again for a short period of time before I lose pressure. Does that sound like that is correct, this is for sprinkler system
@@h2omechanic I’m in GA but this happened before the drought. Also looking at my new pressure gauge it fills back up quickly . I have replaced the control panel, water bladder, and pressure switch, filters, ext. all zones are free and clear
GOOD evening thanks for your experience and time i have no water. How do I test the pump directly without it looping through the switch . I took it out of the well
Your video describes my symptom to a tee, after checking pressure tank which is 38 psi and replacing my pressure gage for obvious failure and sealing all connections off the pressure tank tee. The pressure gage struggles to maintain pressure, at cut off I slowly lose pressure before the pressure switch kicks back on again, and endless cycle and at this point after a long rest I can't even fill a large load for the washing machine before water drops off. Please advise as I've coved the base's found hear on TH-cam. Thanks Ed
Happy this video shed some light & helped you. You'll probably find a cracked pipe near the pump, but go ahead and replace the pump bc its been working its @ss off for a while. The pumps impellers are probably worn out from continuously running
TY sir for your timely response, I was thinking along the same issue, that said can you please provide a reasonable replacement cost would range and can you recommend a reliable brand name. Ty in advance.
@@edwardsage5284 I install J class pumps. 7-10 gpm. A typical pump replacement depending on pipe its hung on can range from 5k @ 400+ft 2hp. Or a normal east coast system or black roll pipe should cost 1400-$2000 at 300ft deep . It can always be cheaper if it is shallower the 100ft.
Hi am Julian and thank you for this video. My Franklin water cylinder have no pressure and the motor cylinder gets hot when switching ON. Please help me.
Help. Pressure won't get over 25psi at the tank. Guage is on the Air Volume Control. Submersible pump constantly running. Seems to hold pressure when pump is shutoff. Has a check valve with ports for pressure switch and air valve between well head and tank. Could the check valve be bad?
@@h2omechanic Thanks. That's what it seems like. I put some pressure in with my air compressor and after the switch kicked off I could hear some gurgling at the well head, but tank pressure stayed steady.
Love your videos. We have an inline tank on our well , and have had the cabin water lines and hot water tank drained (with the well breaker off) for a couple months to prevent freezing. When I restart the system, should I do anything special, like turn the breaker on, then off, then on ,then off?
My pump was sucking sand. I replaced it, but I'm scared that it suck up sand again. Do I shorten my pipe so that the pump lies above the sand? And, by how much length do I shorten it ?
Hey h2o mechanic! Been watching a bunch of your videos. We have a scenario where we are sitting around 16psi, pump is drawing 6amps constantly, pressure tank won’t fill. It’s a submerged pump and popping the top we see water about 15 feet down (previous professional had mentioned well was drying up, which doesn’t make sense). We are unsure if this is pressure tank problem, pump problem, or possible well issue. Any thoughts on the matter would be greatly appreciated.
Hi. My pump is a Tesla Ideal 2 and every few days or so it stops and come out with the code OL which means over load. We have pull the pump out and it doesn’t have that valve to stop the water coming back into the pump. Please advise if possible. Thanks
Buy a Simmons Check valve and put it on top of the pump. 1.25"x1"brass If its a new pump hopefully it's still good. Typically a OL happens & the motor is dying, so if the pumps old, replace it. I stay away from Tesla stuff imo. I'd buy a Goulds or J-class or Grundfos. If the Pump has a Franklin Electric motor on it, it's Quality! Cheap pump have short lives & don't lift from very deep. I did a Video on Amazon pumps showing just that.
Thanks for good video. I replaced my pump and try to test by hooked up the power to the control box before hook the tank Water come out slow Please help
Hey H20 Mechanic! Great Video. We have an issue with our well where after about 5-10 minutes of running the water our water pressure goes down drastically. Approximately 25% of normal water pressure. We have a feeling the water pressure tank is not getting filled quickly enough and runs low and we getting poor flow rate from well. We have lived in the house for about 16 years. The well was drilled before we moved in. I have replaced the well pump about 12-14 years ago. We had folks come out this week and replace the water pressure tank because the pressure gauge was not functioning correctly and they told me the bladder in the water pressure tank was faulty.. The new water pressure tank did not correct the low pressure issue. So I am thinking perhaps a problem with the well pump or possibly the well itself. We live in the NE and are still in a drought. Any suggestions or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
Depth of well & depth of pump would help me determine the issue properly. 1st it sounds like the water level is low in the well & runs out of pumpable water mid way thru. Possibly a leaky toilet in the house thats draining the well slow but 24/7 . So inspect toilets carefully!!! Secondly. 14 years is at the service life of the pump, its time for the motor to die (bearings fail inside) or the pump end could be worn out inside (impellers) & not allowing pressure to build. Turn off well breaker and wait 60 minutes and see if the pressure on the gauge drops to 0. It should hold steady if no water is leaking out.
@@h2omechanic Thanks so much for the information. We are having someone come out next week to check the well - depth of well, depth of pump, flow rate etc. I am hoping it's the pump. The well guy who is coming out does not think it's the pump. At this point, it makes sense to replace the the well pump in my opinon. We also had our neighbors drill a new well this summer which is around the timeframe we starting having issues. At that time we were in a draught and thought the draught was the issue for the low water pressure. I will try you recommended test today and let you know what happens.
Update!!! The well pump was faulty and replaced. In addition the flex tubing was replaced due to manganese build up. The good news is that there is plenty of water in the well
Put in a new pump, tank, pressure switch, control box. Will pressure up 40-60 and run for about 15 min then water flow comes down to a drip, but then will kick back up for a few minutes. Any ideas
I am having an issue where my water will shuddering out of the faucets pretty violently every now and then, as if there is water in the line. Any idea what could be putting water in my system? Where is a good place to start?
I have a well pump like you showed in this video and thank you it was informative. Can I leave that pump right where it's at and run an external pump in my basement? In other words instead of pumping the water i want the external pump to suck/draw the water from inside the house and using the same line. I have about 20 psi at the gauge so I'm sure it's either cracked or broke somehow.
Probably running the well dry faster than it's filling up. I'd assume you have different zones. Try cutting off 25-30% of the heads and see if it lasts longer. If not try 50% of them off & repeat. If it still goes below 20 psi in 10 minutes with half of the heads off, you'll know that it's likely the pump or tank. Does your system have a tank? Or is it a timer run system?
I've got no water after a cold snap on a fixer upper property with some shoddy plumbing. The pressure tank appears to be fine, but its sitting at 22-23 PSI with a 30/50 switch and I don't have an air compressor right now. Pressure gauge that was already installed is busted so I can't get a reading off that. When I test the contacts on the pressure switch they spark but the submersible pump will not cycle. Around the well casing itself there is water pooled aboveground which I can guess is not good. Any help is appreciated I am totally inexperienced with wells.
Kill the power & see if the pressure drops to 0. If it does, then you should pull the pump and look for a busted pipe. An ice broke can make a pump dead head & itll bust the drop pipe.
Great video thank you can a jack hammer drive a two inch pipe and what is the smallest diameter submersible pump on the market today again a great video you can tell you are good at what you do in Michigan we have all kinda different water problems how far do u think a driven well can go
I think my pump has a faulty check valve. I noticed the 40/60 pressure switch cycling off and on rapidly (within just a few seconds) with the main valve shutoff turned off to the house. The pressure was leaking back into the well. I replaced the switch (burnt contacts due to cycling so much) and i replaced the pressure tank (old one spit water out of the tire valve) and i added a pvc in-line check valve as soon as the pipe exits the well. Now, the rapid cycling of the switch has stopped, but the well pump us now spitting air every 45 seconds or so. So, i have diagnosed (i hope) one of two possibilities.....1. The pipe from the pump to the pvc in-line check valve is cracked and allowing the water to drain back into the well, sucking air in. OR.....2. The water level in my well has dropped and now the pump is sucking air. What do i do? I thought about replacing the pipe with a longer one by a few feet and dropping the pump deeper, but im not sure how much depth i have before its sucking sand. It is the black flexible, 100psi pipe that you mentioned, and i inspected it and cannot see any visible cracks. Fittings look ok as well. Somehow air is getting into the system consistantly about every 45-60 seconds, and it seems like thats coresponding with how long it takes to cycle off/on. Theres a bad leak somewhere inside the well casing. Any ideas, thoughts, suggestions? Well is 26 years old. Never had a supply ir recovery issue with it before. Thanks, Don
Your #1 thought is correct. Adding the check valve stops water back flowing at that point. But the pipe behind it keeps draining and that creates a air pocket in line. Pull the pump out & replace the pump or add a Simmons brass check valve directly to the top of the pump. It's possible that it's a cracked fitting as well. You'll find it once it's out. Also Check the tanks air pressure, a tank low on air can be the cause of short cycles. Videos on tanks on my channel teach you how to test/set tank correctly
My circuit breaker keeps tripping in about 2min time even though I tested the breaker, replaced the pressure switch and I believe the tank is still good. I would appreciate any thoughts that you might have. Thanks in advance!
I,m in texas I covered the well, turned the power off to the water we ll,drained the pipes before we left town for a couple of days. Came home turned the water on and water came shooting out of the vent. Any suggestions ?????????
Moved into a home and I get water for 10 min and then slowly lowers and then sputters and shoots out air really hard. It has an above ground pump. Anyway after sputtering then I'm out of water for around 12 to 19 minutes or so before the pressure is back and this cycle repeats So you can imagine how horrible a shower is during doing laundry Any tips?
hi i have a new pump and I moves it to a location closer to the well, and now when I turn it on it starts up fine until it reaches the cut off pressure.it shuts off and clicks right back on and then clicks off .clicks on. and the pressure drops while it does that but when it reaches the staring point it doesn't stay on may more it just keepa clicking on and off. untill i disconnect it wait a minute or so and when it's energized it starts again like before and repeats this cycle again. the pump is new about a month old. please advise if you have any idea of what is going on.thank you
thank you for your videos they are very informative, and easy to understand what you are explaining about the functions and operations of the pumps.i appreciate you taking time to help out folks.
Can you tell us the proper steps to install a new pump and how to determine how many check valves to use.
1 check valve at the pump is all you need 90% of the time
th-cam.com/video/iXSQg6LLwxY/w-d-xo.html
Step by step installation. Many more well videos on my channel. Well Q&A Playlist
@@h2omechanic Thank you for the video and the reply. Sorry for this long-winded response, but thank you if you can assist me and anyone else in a similar situation. Trying to diagnose if it's a faulty check valve at the submersible pump or crack in well pipe at pump or on the line coming into house without pulling pump since we're still in the negative temperatures here in interior Alaska and 100 miles from the nearest well drilling specialist. Cannot see if there's any water spots on ground outside from well casing to the house, since we're under several feet of snow and ice for a few more months (usually thaws in April/May, with water not fully soaking into ground/evaporating until June/July). I can visually see the water rushing back down the well pipe via the whole house water filter with clear canister installed just after the well pipe that leads into crawlspace from underground (pre-expansion tank). The canister will drain down to less than 25% water and fill up with air approximately 75%. This happens after the water pressure drops from 50 down to 30 psi when using water and the pressure switch kicks on at that time. Pressure tank is set at 28 psi. There's a second check valve right before the expansion tank/pressure switch, so harder to diagnose since the gauge doesn't lose pressure over time because that check valve prevents pressure drop and is working. After the pressure tank water is exhausted and pressure is down to 28 psi the faucets start sputtering with air and spurts of water, and then several seconds later the water will rush back into the filter canister from the well pipe along with a bunch of air bubbles (delay of water filling canister). Once the water visually fills the filter canister again very rapidly, the water at faucets will continue sputtering before releasing brown sediment, and this takes approximately 20-30 seconds to clear up. Once the sputtering stops, a few more seconds pass before the sediment clears, and then the water is clear and the pressure tank starts building pressure again to 50 psi. This cycle repeats every time the pressure switch calls for water, and there has ALWAYS been water hammer once the pump cut off (the well pipe to crawl space will shake, and it has a foam "pool noodle" sleeve around it to deaden the noise). Been this way since we bought the home and didn't come up during inspection. Well and well pump installed 2019 when home built. Given the sediment that gets washed up every time, I was leaning towards a semi-educated guess/DIY diagnosis of a crack in the well pipe right above the pump, since that would create a water swirl that stirs up sediment that is getting sucked back into the pump and eventually the pump fills with enough water to overcome the air in the pipe and comes racing back up. After finding your video, now I'm wondering if it could be the check valve at the pump being bad. Again, sorry for the long drawn out reply/description. In your experience, has a bad check valve at the pump caused something similar? I.e. air in the well pipe, followed by sediment brown water before clearing again, only to repeat again, every time? Or do all signs point to a cracked pipe? Thanks again for reading. I know time is valuable.
@@h2omechanic I think my check valve is leaking so I'm going to add one just before the pressure tank. Will that usually get them to stop back leaking?
@@mickjager5974 no. Itll actually cause an air pocket to form in the line when the pump leaks down. Every morning itll cycle & send a small burst of air into the tank.
The only (half a$$) way to fix it easy is to add a check valve directly at the top of the well. But it still may cause the air issue, just less bc it takes the "trench pipe" out of the equation in regards to the drain back.
I'd consider it a band-aid, but 100% will stop the cycling. If you notice air during a shower or flush a toilet, now you'll understand why this happened.
In my opinion there is no one else on you tube who is as clear and concise as this young man when it comes to diagnosing well water issues!
Agree !
I just bought a house with a well. I've always had city water, so wells are new to me. Thanks for posting such an informative video.
I subbed and rang the bell ...love the practical info for the novice ... I'm a 66 yr old retired builder who cut his teeth in the golf course irrigation business 40 years ago ... so I know a bit about wells and plumbing ... bought an old historic house to restore 6 years ago ... no info on well and the service guy never returned my calls with history ... 3 years later, no water one morning, simple diagnostic, 30 year old controller circuit board fried (Franklin 3 wire) ... simple fix ....then 3 years later, last week no water, controls good, pressure switch good ... both red and black (230 had power down into the casing) ... checked OHM reading for 1/2 hp, it was twice the specs, so bad motor ... called 5 well guys, only 1 returned my call (prior service guy) said he was booked out 5 weeks and said it would be $2,500 to pull and new pump ... so I looked at the dog the next morning and said, hey, we're going to be Well Guys ... eastern PA right on the Delaware River, 60 ft above it, so I know pump could not be that deep ... good quality sanitary seal, 1 1/4 poly with good brass fittings ... pulled the pump by hand, dog was no help and he's a 100 lb cart dog (bouvier des flandres) but he was supportive (from the shade) ... half way up (40 ft) I saw the wires were severely chaffed/open, corroded copper showing ... finally got the pump out and checked Ser # manufacture date ... 1987, 1/2 hp Franklin Electric with a Morris pump ... motor case was weeping rust .... Damn thing was 32 years old, 3 wire, red/black/yellow, wires were that old as well ... figured they didn't owe anyone anything (although house was a summer home for 60 years and empty for 20 of those last years before I bought it from their eastate (elderly couple) so it didn't have a lot of "run time" ... I did make up a double male garden hose and attached to my nice elderly neighbor next door, so I have water (I do a lot of "fixing and favors" for him and his wife, so he was glad to help out there .... so good news is I had watched all your well videos, so I ordered online, a good 3/4 HP Flint Walling pump and 100 ft of new 10 ga wire and WP splicing kit (local supplier only had 2 wire F&W's) ... and even found that 3M self sealing silicon tape on amazon (came today) got 6 rolls for $15 ... I was going to replace the torque arrestor and wire guards and rig a safety line until I watch your video ... and I agree, way too much stuff down a well casing to get stuck or go wrong ... So I'm only going with the pump, additional 1 1/4 brass check valve, and well taped wires (pump is at 80 ft, so easy to pull) ... Franklin controller was new 3 yr ago and well as new breaker/cut out switch, new pressure switch, pressure gauge and expansion tank, new spin down filter, followed by double GE Carbon filters ... all new Pex throughout the house ... anyway, long winded, but wanted to thank you for the tip on going with a "Clean" install without all the questionable "add on's" that could cause future trouble ... love that 3M self stick, self seal tape ... and I have 4 rolls of 3M Super "33" as well (your other tip) ... Pump and wire will be here tomorrow ... (I also took your idea and used an old cart wheel rim and build a small wood frame over my 5 ft deep well pit to support and guide the poly pipe on the way out (and back in) .. best of luck to you in your business ... you'll do well (no pun intended) with your logical and professional approach ...
Your channel saved the bacon for me today. Lost water pressure last night at 10pm, had it solved by this afternoon. Long story short, 280' deep, new pump and wiring
Happy to Help!
@@h2omechanic no doubt, your explanations were simple to understand, and the knowledge you shared saved me a couple thousand bucks I'm sure.. my brother is an electrician, so that helped some lol
Finally found the Man to get down to problem shoots. This is my now go to channel!! Im so glad i found this channel.
EXCELLENT VIDEO ON CAUSES OF LOW PRESSURE. RARE VIEWS OF LINE FAILURES AT THE WELL PUMP.
Thank-You! For your video!
I moved here 10 years ago. It’s a 30 year old house. We’ve been having air from all the water outlets for about 2 months.
When the weather is dry especially. When the weather is raining or moist there’s no problem.
I had a plumber out but he referred me to a pump company. The pump company did not respond to my email.
I JUST pulled a Red Jacket 1/3 hp 230 volt set at 100 ft and it worked until 3 weeks ago..it's a 1973!!! Gotta be a record I'm in SW Missouri,love this channel!
Very informative. Can you do a video of pulling the pump from the well? Thanks again for the video
Your are videos are awesome. You have a natural talent for teaching. For years, I’ve tried to explain to people that great teachers are born, not made.
I really enjoy your videos. I never knew how wells worked, were installed or repaired until you explained it. You do a great job. Thanks for your time.
I appreciate this video. I am replacing a pump. My expansion tank went bad and I have no idea how long it was bad. I pulled the pump, cleaned the screen sat the pump in a can full of water and let it run. It got a little better flow after a while but I didn't think how much should have been flowing. It was definitely no where near 5 gpm. Unfortunately I put it back down and got a little water pressure but never reached cut out. I just pulled it again this morning and I am heading to buy a new one. This video really helped convince me. I am kinda handy but people who do this had me believing it was something else. It is stranded wire so I feel the likelihood of a break was low. The pump is 18 years old. Thanks again
Once you pull it out again, just inspect the wire carefully looking for rubbed off wire coating/ exposed copper.
I have a well pump install video that would be great for you to watch. It's 20 minutes long but filled with great info.
First of all I stumbled on your channel as a new homeowner on a well system and appreciate the video thus far. Installed a 60/40 pressure switch to step up the pressure from a 50/30. All was well for a week and I was enjoying the increase in pressure. One morning I noticed the pump running continuously when I woke up early. No water running or open faucets on in the house. Pressure stuck around 20-25 psi with the pump/breaker on. Once I turn off the pump at the breaker the water pressure drops off to 0 and I can hear running down hole. No obvious leaks above ground. No obvious (to me) pressure tank issues. So I guess I need to bring the ole pump up and inspect the piping/fittings/check valves down hole?
You are correct. Itll be a split pipe or cracked fitting.
I'm going to guess & say when you pull it out the pipe is going to be very thin. I00psi. Id replace it with 160-200 psi pipe. Either way your going in the right direction. My "Well Q&A" Playlist on my channel has 25 videos that will help you. Especially the install videos, step by step.
@@h2omechanic Much appreciated! Thanks for the willingness to express and share your experience and knowledge to folks!
@@h2omechanic hey just wanted to give you a quick update! Since your advice was so helpful. Line had a cracked fitting where my black roll poly pipe fit into a galvanized section. Got it fixed and now we have the best pressure and water flow ever! Big Props to you man! couldn’t have figured it out and fixed it for under $20 without the help! Thank you! Anytime you plan on coming to Texas, give me a holler!
Dear sir,
You are a brave individual, I would never be confident enough to offer diagnostics based on even my own uninformed anecdotal observations.
God Bless and best wishes.
Been subscribed for a couple months, watched a lot of videos. Asked questions 2 - 3 times, didn't get any response. Will keep trying. 😊
1) Thinking to put pressure tank and connect to the pump about 10' under the ground to eliminate heating well house in the winter season. A) is it a good idea? B) how to do it? C) Should I install another pressure tank under the house in the crawl space? Well is about 30 yards away from the house.
Great video brotha very helpful. I have a junk check valve. Saved me from army crawling under the house for hours.
What a very informative video!!
Thank you SO much for your time. Your very helpful for many people. ❤️❤️🙏
Thanks Ang! I try my best
Brass and 100+ psi poly, definitely 200psi poly for the bottom 200+ of a 400 drop. Check valve in the middle. On a long drop also use a 3 inch brass mpt to ins on the bottom of the pitless. Im in Ontario Canada though. So cool to watch your videos because its the same game depending on the landacape and geology.
As a well tech, these videos are great.
Thank you so much for such an informative video on the well pump itself, I found like a gazillion videos on the water tank and pressure switch but took me all day to find this. I was at my wits end trying everything I watched so now I am off to see if this is the issue.
Thank you for this information, we just lost pressure at home. I checked the tank, swith and still no pressure went outside to see if something was visible and there was all the water around the well gushing out bringing sand out to the grass..
Thank you for this educational your video has helped out diagnosing my well pump issue. Now all I have to do is pull my well pump. Thank you again
Great video. Short and sweet, right to the point with good info. Thanks.
Hello. Very in formative.👍 I have SOME
air in my lines. Bled pressure tank and bladder has 27lbs on 30/50 switch. Pressure with water appears to be holding. Pump was replaced 18 yrs ago with sched 80 pvc feed line I believe in casing. I know it was plastic. I’m thinking there may be a crack at the pump. The well is 54’ deep pump is set at 50’ static is 37’. Do you think the pump or fittings are the culprit. How difficult is it to pull if that’s what you think needs to be done
Great video! Thanks for the education. I am starting to think it's the pump at my house. I replaced the water tank initially, which said 1992 on the date of manufacturing, so was happy about the life out of that. Then I replaced the pressure switch with one with the arm on the side of it. That was a mistake overall, as i had to push the arm up and allow pressure back into the system. So I returned that and got a standard 40-60 psi switch yesterday, and it immediately went to 40psi. Thought that was the solution until pressure dropped again, ugh! So it gradually does build up, but the brand new switch does not kick on and off. I adjusted the range clockwise and it simply doesn't go up??? It's very frustrating. This AM, the pressure was good, although, a ton of air and sputtering coming out of showers for the first 20 seconds or so. The pressure was at 40 when I checked it, but now creeping back down to around 35 and convinced it won't build back up once again, and have the pressure switch cranked at least 4 full turns. Any help or feedback would be appreciated. Thanks again for the video.
I'm having the same exact problem at my house too :(
Outstanding explanation! Thank You
Great video I would like to get an old well working again. It has a 4 inch cap with 2 PVC pipes & 4 bolts holding it.
Regarding your video titled, "Most Common Reasons For No Water" I would insert a comment at 10:42 while the system is being shut down. After turning off the power to the system, open a spigot and let the water run. Watch the pressure gauge drop to zero. If it does not read zero, then the gauge needs replaced. This caused a question for me because my pressure gauge never dropped below 30psi. Once I replaced the pressure gauge, the rest of the trouble shooting became easy. Thanks for some great explanation and instruction.
Just got a new house and i've got some air in my lines. Pitless adapter. Age and type of pump unknown. Owner had notes written that originally said water started 4 foot down, well is 45 feet deep. I popped the cap and looked down the well and the water isn't 4 foot down, probably more like 30-40 feet. That's got me a little concerned. From what I could see in the well it looks like a wack/bad install job in general so tomorrow i'm pulling the pump to take a look. The pressure tank is also on the older side so i'm replacing that just as a preventative measure to protect the pump. Pump works well, good amperage, good pressure. Lines are just sputtering often and it's got me a little concerned something is about to fail.
That is great explanation and information. Will be asking questions of the well company! Thank you!
Having a lot of air in my system. Not so much on the cold side. Mostly the hot. Air comes and goes. Sometimes no air for a couple of days. Pump is cycling as it should even though its 40 years old. Any Ideas would be appreciated.
Did you ever figure out the issue?
Great description of submersible well pumps.
5 stars.
Where would you start with a house that is only pumping 35 psi?
The last time my well had poor pressure we replaced the pump and the water supply leading to the house was cracked.
The pump was fine.
Kill the breaker & look at the gauge at the tank, if it drops to 0 psi, you have a leak again somewhere.
If you wait 1 hour & turn the system back on and air eventually comes out of a faucet, that's an indication that the leak is down the well . Possibly a fitting cracked or a hole rotted in a metal fitting. Exactly like the pumps in this video
what might cause a no water situation but ONLY after over an hour of pumping? We have a lawn sprinkler system that was turned on for the season in May. The sprinklers run for a duration of 2 hours every other day and this system has been in service for ~8 years. This no water condition is a new phenomena this year.
After pumping for over 1 hours time, there is no water in the line/tank. You can repeat the situation like clockwork but only after 1 hours time (it is not an intermittent issue). I am leaning toward this being a well/aquifer problem, not a pump issue - I think the well is running out of water to pump. Well pump age is questionable but it's not THAT old. We have had no pressure issues or other water issues any other time of day or with normal usage. This only happens when the sprinklers are in use for over an hour. To make matters worse, it's my father's water system and he REFUSES to believe there is a problem so my diagnosis has to be discreet until I can further conclude what the issue may be. He also refuses to turn the sprinklers off. :::facepalm::: thanks! Great content by the way!
I should also note this is a deep well (aprox. 110 feet) with submersible pump & pressure tank in basement. well was drilled ~1987/1988
@lifestooshort81 possible that you are simply over Pumping the well. Needs more time to recover during heavy usage.
Or you have a bad pressure tank, that'll cause the pump to cycle on/off/on/off alot more frequently which overheats the pump. After 5 minutes the pump would cool down and run again. Both have similar signs, so inspect your tank, make sure its not faulty. Bc if it is, it'll get worse over time.
@@h2omechanic thank you! Overpumping the well is my educated guess at this moment and the validation from a professional helps me work to prove my case (my father second guesses everything I say). Im planning on doing a static level test this weekend before and during the sprinklers running to confirm/debunk if it’s a water level thing. I don’t think the pressure tank is even filling enough/building enough pressure for the pump to cycle: I mean once the sprinklers turn on, the pump continuously runs to feed water to the sprinklers.
I pulled my pump . Found several little holes on the first stick of pvc. Being told I have a bladder or a tank .I haven’t yet found either. It’s a old homestead I own. Well was already there and now wanting to build
So what kind of feed line should be used if pvc has a potential to crack. Very good video.
We use Black roll pipe with metal fittings brass or SS. Pvc is fine for Very deep applications, but does get brittle with age.
Do all pumps come with a check valve, or is it something added in special circumstances? Second question, where is the bottom of the casing in relation to the pump? ie does the pump extend out the bottom of the casing, or is the pump protected inside the casing to prevent it from rocking and damaging itself or plugging up against adjacent rock and mud?
H2o machanic, i watched your vids for a while. In alaska, and long way from a well man when they come arround 125 to 225 miles away. They normally like to stack jobs to justify trip in. Moved into house with well and off CITY water.. I was told the well was 240 foot deep, i dont know the static depth. And of course no well log with the house. The pump runs it will build pressure to 32 to 45 psi. When running depending which guage i use. Running 30- 50 pressure switch. The pressure tank when empty rings like bell and light. The pressure at the schrader valve read 32, lowered to 29psi. Still no effect... Watched couple other vids. Barrowed amp meter reads 6amps on both power legs on start up and run. There is 120 on each leg of power and the load side 240 when on. We can turn off the breaker, water will hold all night untill tank is empty of may be 6 to 10 gals (60 gal tank). We turn the pump on with the breaker and water is back, but the pump will not raise it to the high limit. The pump will run untill i go and open the contacts mannually.. then again if circut left on , water flows unill low limit kicks pump on. Then repeat. I dont know how old the pump is. House was partially used last few years. The well was run dry a few years ago during a summer pressure washing. But it functioned for the next few years. Winters comming would like to get it fixed before snow hits in six to eight weeks.... my wife likes showers and like her..
Sure wish you were in my area. Great information. Thanks
I have 3 wells at my farm pumping into 2 3000 gallon water tanks, so no head pressure other than the well depth. In the heat of the summer i need all 3 wells at peak performance to supply my farm. 2 wells are 500' and 1 is 700' all 1.5hp F&W with control boxs. Recently the 700' well seems to be over pumping itself. It was rated at 7gpm but has always produced around 9gpm and never had an issue for 8 years now. It seems to be running out of water and it will trip the pump protection device. I pinched the outlet valve down to 4.5 gpm and it will run there without tripping. So i guess that one is running out of water.
The one that i want your opinion on is the 500' well and i believe it has a 15gpm pump set at around 380' It was rated at 15gpm but has never been able to produce that much. Maybe 8 or 10gpm consistently. This week it was down to 1.5 to 2gpm. I checked the amps and both legs are between 9.6 and 9.8 so i dont think its running out of water or the pump is worn out or the amps would be much lower correct? Your video made me think that it could have a crack in the pipe. Schedule 140 pvc 1.250" but it would have to be in the casing because there is no sediment coming out of the pipe. The thing is that after 4 days of 1.5 to 2 gpm its now putting out 6gpm. I could use a little help. Any ideas?
Thank in advance, J
Ok, so I'd say you could definitely have a broken pipe down the hole. A simple test to see if its broken is to open a spickot that's hooked to only that 1 well. Kill the power & open the faucet & put your hand on it. If it leaks, it'll cause a vacuum on you hand. It may take 60sec but you'll definitely notice it.
If you never get a suction feeling & the water seems to stay there, then there's no leak in the drop pipe.
You pump is just simply worn out.
At 500ft id recommend a 5 or 7 gpm pump head. The water level being so deep, a lower gpm pump is definitely required!
I'd have 5GPM 1.5Hp in all 3 wells.
The 9.6-9.8 amps is perfect for that size pump, it's actually slightly under normal load #s. But try the suction test & let me know
@@h2omechanic I just checked for suction on the line, there was none. Wouldnt the amps be way down if the pump was worn out and not pumping?
also I cannot put 5 to 7 gpm pumps in because i need a minimum of 25gpm between all 3 wells to get by.
Very helpful, I have been having air, low pressure in my water, mostly in the hot for whatever reason, I had a plumber come out, he said it was the Well, I called a Well company they said it is inside the house and that there was nothing wrong with the well, to call a plumber, I called another plumber they said it was the water heater, switched it, still have the same issue, came back today says its likey the connections from the well to the house. They are coming back Monday to run pressure test on the connection, what do you think, So far I have spent $1700, still have the problem. I was quoted $450 for the test on Monday.
I have shorts on the issue on my channel for reference.
Hi amazing video. Our pump pumps up to 20 psi when I turn the breaker off it does not drop down it just stays at 20 ; when I open the Spicket at the well it drops down to zero when I close the Spicket it goes back up to 20 what do you think the problem might be ? Thank you so much for your help !
Sounds to me like the pumps old & worn out or possible cracked pipe in well. Or a leak in yard or under home. If u find no leaks, the pump needs to be pulled out of the well
Pump was replaced a year ago and has a sand filter attached. It would easily fill my 40 gallon, or so, tank from 35 to 50 psi in about 3 or 4 minutes. Now if it take 5 or 6, but if the pressure gets down to about 10 if I’m filling something, it likes to never fill back up. This evening is hovered around 10 psi for several minutes before I cut the switch and cleaned one of the two above ground filters and fired it back it up. That let it get over the 10 psi mark but it took about 20 minutes to get to 50 psi.
Sounds like the well doesn't have enough water in it to fill the tank. Leave the breaker off all night & see if it helps. If it helps, look for a leak somewhere. Or call a well company bc you might need a Hydro-Fracing process done on the well to increase flow rate of the well.
If any filter is plumbed before the tank, that most likely the issue. All filters go after tank.
@@h2omechanic I’ll call the guys that set it up. It has two filters pre-tank. One on the pump that’s about 6 feet long, one going into the tank and one coming out. The set up was replaced in June of 2020 but it had also been replaced one year prior. They warrantied the whole thing and that was nice. The pump is at 653’ and the SWL was at about 40 a year ago.
I got low water pressure. Seemed to be gradually happening. Don’t seem to be the switch or the tank. My next step was to see if the galvanized lines after the pump are clogged. Losing my mind trying to figure out the problem. Any info would be appreciated at this point!
If you kill the power & the water psi gauge drops to 0 without you using any, that says that you have a bad pipe or fitting in the well with a hole in it. The hole slowly gets bigger & pressure gets weaker. This video is exactly what you will find.
We have a deep well pump, when my wife starts shower, I hear water and what sounds like air surging in lines as well, possibly sounds like cavitation. Using pressure washer is surge of water, wait for pressure to build then more water. Don't know what pipe we have, seeing your broken pipes, was a help. The motor torque twists the lines. We hv high rust, don't know how old pump is.
I have a well that’s 50’ deep and the water column starts at about 25’. It’s a very good well, so I’m certain I’m not running my well dry. I have a zoeller pump that doesn’t require a control box that’s less than a year old in it and all of a sudden I’ve started having trouble with the pump not kicking on, on its own. The pressure switch shows to be still within its operating range but I’m not getting the water to my 3 water troughs with automatic floats. I don’t have any leaks in pipes underground to my knowledge or that have surfaced. But as soon as I turn the breaker off and pull my pump up a couple feet from its pitiless adapter and then reset into the adapter I turn the breaker back on and then make sure the pressure switch contacts are together the pump will turn back on and pressurize the system and fill the Troughs and then the trough floats will cut the water off and then the next day I get home from work and the same issue. Any insight as to what could be the issue? Is the pump going into thermal overload or am I losing prime? I don’t have a check valve directly above the pump other than what’s installed internally in the pump. The check valve is about 60’ from the pump where my pressure tank and filters are located. Any info will be appreciated, thanks!
You need a clamp system amp meter. Clamp Around one single wire white or black. It should read 6.5 amp or if it's 13-20 amp, the pumps dead & is over heating.
That's the only true way to test the pump. If its good, then I'd remove the check valve from the tank. The one at the pump is all you need.
If the switch is old,replace it.
Great video, thank you. Our hand-dug well is in a creek down a steep bank from our house. recently, the volume of water going through the system is less than half of what it normally is. The pressure is great for the first few seconds when you turn on a tap, but then it drops off very quickly. The creek is fairly low right now, but last year at this time we didn't have any problems. I'm thinking it could be a check valve issue but would appreciate any thoughts. thank you!
OK, nevermind! turns out our water filter is clogged. Thanks for the great video anyways :)
I bought one of the junk lowes pumps. A little over a year and pressure it only around 30. I don't think it's cracked though. Seems to hold ok. Drops a tad when I turn it off but that might be from the pressure tank pushing back at such a low pressure. I keep finding weird plastic shavings floating on top of the water. It's got to be from the pump. But my water keeps having weird pulp in it that looks like orange juice pulp. And sometimes I get this stuff that looks just like dryer lint. Some other things, just weird stuff coming up. The water looks clear though. I can't imagine where it could be even coming from. I thought perhaps a cracked septic but I don't think it could make it that far over and through all the dirt and rocks. So bizarre. Unless the last owner who were addict's and trashed the place had thrown something down there. But the cap was on and it looks like it hadn't been off in ages. But who knows, maybe something from decades ago was dropped in there.
I have plenty of filtering after the pump so lets hope a new high quality pump does the trick and doesn't break like the last one.
The 10 impellers are made of plastic and Teflon coated. They rotate at 3450rpm. The impellers were coming apart and that was the shavings you saw. It worn out the tolerance and couldn't build pressure anymore. Typically a failed bearing happens often in cheap brands & the impeller stack starts wobbling & rubbing & not running true. It's all too common. That's for your comment! It helps others with similar issues.
@@h2omechanic I ended up buying a more expensive American made pump. I put it in myself. Dang that was rough pulling up 120 feet of water filled line and pump myself!! This new pump is drastically better quality. Made from Lots of metal instead of cheap plastic. I think the bearing did fail on the last one and it shaved off a lot of the impeller and probably the weird stuff coming up was from shavings from the sides or something. Everything working great now. I'll always pay more for a good pump, not worth it to take a chance. I didn't even want to buy the cheap Lowes pump I knew that would bite me in the rear, but I was new in town and needed one fast and hoped for the best.
Amazing video, great job, subscribed! I have air coming into the house water lines only after I haven't used the water for a while, like overnight, and only when it first comes on. If I keep the water flowing, like when outside water my plants, I don't have additional air in the lines (even after the pump kicks on again). Thinking this might be a crack in the well pipe which allows air in while the pump is at rest (water leaking out over time), perhaps somewhere above the water line. Does that make sense to you? I plan to pull the pump and check. Thanks for any advice.
Your on the right track! It's probably not a crack...but could be. It's typically a leaking check valve in the pump. If you have a check valve at the tank or at the top of the well, then that ones holding pressure back & the one in the pump is leaking slowly. If the pumps old, just replace it honestly. Or if it's less than 8 years old, add a check valve on top of your pump & re install! Your definitely in the right direction!
@@h2omechanic This is SO helpful. Thanks for being so generous with your expertise and time! Pump is about fifteen years old, so time for a change!
Happy To Help!😊
My water pressure is good as soon as you turn on the faucet, but slowly gets weaker and weaker. I am pretty sure the bladder and pressure switch are good. What do you think?
Very well explained. Thank you. When looking for well info, pump problem help..... this is a goto...
Subscribed
Hi hope your channel is doing well 3 years later. I am experiencing air in the water along with tonight I was walking by the well head and air was shooting out of the weep hole on the small pipe next to the well head itself. We have I believe the farm style well with a pressure tank mounted just below the surface of the ground. The pressure will spike when the water is shut off to 80 psi then drop quickly with poor flow. ( contacts pop on and off if the tap is opened before the iron curtain). I have replaced the float several times but have not prefilled the air in some time. Would low air pressure in the tank cause the weep hole to spout for a good long time.
Thanks! Now I know what to look for!!
I have air coming out of the water hose installed before the pressure tank , I just replaced the well pump about three months ago, the pressure gauge stays at the same pressure, not loosing any pressure. Just air coming out of the water hose at different times.
l'm interested in a property about 1000 miles away. He said it has a well but the pump don't work. Any suggestions? Should l have a plumber check it out or just go out there and deal with it and try and fix it myself?
Deal with it later. Having a well is a great thing. Pumps are easy fix .
Great video…having an issue with ours and need a little advice. Replaced tank (was water logged) and pressure switch (they had a 30-50 on a 40-60 tank) and it’s still not like it used to be. Pressure never gets high enough to shut off, and I think it’s been this way for a couple of months. This is a second home for us, so all we noticed was a significant increase in the electric bill. I think it’s just run itself to death.
You probably have a leak down the well on the drop pipe.
@@h2omechanic thanks…that’s what I’m thinking now as well. We had that freeze here in TX two years ago, and it probably made everything more brittle. I think the same is true for pressure tank…probably plasticized the rubber. When I replaced the tank, it was full of water. Pressure will hold at 10 psi after power is off, so probably a small split and pressure equalizes at that point.
@@h2omechanic I can’t say thanks enough for all the great info and content! Would never have tackled this one without your insight. My problem was actually the pump…not sure, but think maybe torque is what caused top cap to bend and that is where the leak was coming from. New pump, proper wiring and wrap, added a torque arrestor, and when powered on, pressure immediately banged up to 60+ and is now working like a champ! Did it all on a cold, sleeting TX night Thursday, but wasn’t that bad overall. Really appreciate the video content and you helped us get things back to normal. Keep up the great work!
Thank u for ur videos.. ur awesome. My pump, bladder, and switch was installed in 07, myer pump... bladder and switch is bad, house has no water pressure, should I assume pump is bad as well
Yea, 15 y/o is roughly max life span for every major part. Replace the tank & switch & then see if it'll run. If not, then pull the pump.
What pump you recommend for a 3 H.P. 40 G.P.M. three phase ,Drop pipe is 1-1/4" pump depth is 180 Ft
I had a minor water leak in a pipe under my house, I got the leak repaired and ever since I’ve had a HUGE amount of air coming from my well. Plumber said the leak could have cause my check valve to go bad from running constantly. Have you ever had this issue?
great info on some simple problems, even if it is costly! :)
Awesome video man thanks for the help
best video i think i have seen
Great video @H2omechanic, what if there is no leakage along the pump but the pressure is still low?
Thank you very much for the video. This is exactly what the problem with my well that you explained here. I have a brand new pump put in in March 2016. Two weeks ago new pressure. I thought it my be the pressure switch so I switched it and same problem remain. When I turned on the power the pressure would only go up to 10 psi. When I turned off pressure dropped to zero and I could hear the water flowing back down to the well.
I contacted the company that installed it and they are going to charge $3,000 to replace the pump. Therefore, in this difficult time I rather save some money, so will be diy. Do you have any recommendation for a good and long lasting pump currently out there in the market?
Could it be that the air pressure is low in the bladder tank that is causing it to be full of water thank you great info
Yes. Unless the bladder is torn. But add air, & if it happens again, you'll know the bladder is bad.
When your having pressure problems do you call a plumber or a well company. Looks like all of my original equipment was installed by the well driller.
Well Company!
awesome great job
I have trouble with my well pump. Somehow, the pump shorts out and doesn't get electricity when it is hanging normally. The pump comes back online only if I pull up the wire maybe a foot up, therefore making the wires tighter. At that pulled up position, it works fine until my iron removal system regenerates/backwashes... I had two companies stop by, and they just offer to replace the well pump which will cost ~$10,000. Do you have any suggestions on troubleshooting this? Thanks so much for your expertise and your time!!
Last year my pump ran fine. This year, none of the zones would come on. The pump is running and the hydrant at the pump discharges water but with very low pressure. I can put my thumb on the hydrant and stop the flow. I bought a cheap pump two or three years ago and I’m wondering if I got what I paid for. When it turn on my system, all the heads dribble water. Kind of at a loss here. Think the pump wore itself out?
Have a well pump it keep pressure on the house side but when no valves are in the pump kick on pressure up to shut off it hesitate then shut off but the pressure either stay off or kick on then loses prime
Standard in my area is 100 psi poly pipe. Wish the standard was higher. I can't even install a cycle stop valve because back pressure would exceed 100 psi
I enjoyed your video, but you didn't so a solution for my problem. I pulled my pump, it was only 100 ft of pipe. I placed the pump in a kitchen garbage can full of water and turned the pump on. Water went everywhere, it was coming out between the stainless steel housing and built-in castiron check valve on top of the pump. I'm thinking there is an O-ring that went bad. The stainless steel housing has threads inside so I'm assuming it will unscrew from around the pump. Is that right? It's a 3/4 hp Gould pump and has 3.4 - 3.5 resistance from line 1 and line 2. No shorts. Look forward to your response.
I have replaced everything minus the pump. I’m getting water for approximately 10 mins and I loose pressure. I was told the pump is going Thermal coupler was going out. That even though it was in the water, when it got hot it would shut it down. If I let it wait 1520 minutes it will run again for a short period of time before I lose pressure. Does that sound like that is correct, this is for sprinkler system
Your problem is the well isn't filling up fast enough. R u In Florida or GA? Southern states are going thru a drought at the moment.
@@h2omechanic I’m in GA but this happened before the drought. Also looking at my new pressure gauge it fills back up quickly . I have replaced the control panel, water bladder, and pressure switch, filters, ext. all zones are free and clear
@@triplethreatoutdoors6523 are sure your tanks air pressure is 2psi below the switch "on" number
Thanks
GOOD evening thanks for your experience and time i have no water. How do I test the pump directly without it looping through the switch . I took it out of the well
Your video describes my symptom to a tee, after checking pressure tank which is 38 psi and replacing my pressure gage for obvious failure and sealing all connections off the pressure tank tee. The pressure gage struggles to maintain pressure, at cut off I slowly lose pressure before the pressure switch kicks back on again, and endless cycle and at this point after a long rest I can't even fill a large load for the washing machine before water drops off. Please advise as I've coved the base's found hear on TH-cam. Thanks Ed
Happy this video shed some light & helped you.
You'll probably find a cracked pipe near the pump, but go ahead and replace the pump bc its been working its @ss off for a while. The pumps impellers are probably worn out from continuously running
TY sir for your timely response, I was thinking along the same issue, that said can you please provide a reasonable replacement cost would range and can you recommend a reliable brand name.
Ty in advance.
@@edwardsage5284 I install J class pumps. 7-10 gpm. A typical pump replacement depending on pipe its hung on can range from 5k @ 400+ft 2hp. Or a normal east coast system or black roll pipe should cost 1400-$2000 at 300ft deep . It can always be cheaper if it is shallower the 100ft.
Hi am Julian and thank you for this video. My Franklin water cylinder have no pressure and the motor cylinder gets hot when switching ON. Please help me.
Help. Pressure won't get over 25psi at the tank. Guage is on the Air Volume Control. Submersible pump constantly running. Seems to hold pressure when pump is shutoff. Has a check valve with ports for pressure switch and air valve between well head and tank. Could the check valve be bad?
Typically in a situation like this, you remove the pump & youll find a hole or crack in the pipe that is leaking out most of your pressure.
@@h2omechanic Thanks. That's what it seems like. I put some pressure in with my air compressor and after the switch kicked off I could hear some gurgling at the well head, but tank pressure stayed steady.
Love your videos. We have an inline tank on our well , and have had the cabin water lines and hot water tank drained (with the well breaker off) for a couple months to prevent freezing. When I restart the system, should I do anything special, like turn the breaker on, then off, then on ,then off?
My pump was sucking sand. I replaced it, but I'm scared that it suck up sand again. Do I shorten my pipe so that the pump lies above the sand? And, by how much length do I shorten it ?
Top video!!
Hey h2o mechanic! Been watching a bunch of your videos. We have a scenario where we are sitting around 16psi, pump is drawing 6amps constantly, pressure tank won’t fill. It’s a submerged pump and popping the top we see water about 15 feet down (previous professional had mentioned well was drying up, which doesn’t make sense). We are unsure if this is pressure tank problem, pump problem, or possible well issue. Any thoughts on the matter would be greatly appreciated.
Hi. My pump is a Tesla Ideal 2 and every few days or so it stops and come out with the code OL which means over load. We have pull the pump out and it doesn’t have that valve to stop the water coming back into the pump. Please advise if possible. Thanks
Buy a Simmons Check valve and put it on top of the pump. 1.25"x1"brass
If its a new pump hopefully it's still good.
Typically a OL happens & the motor is dying, so if the pumps old, replace it.
I stay away from Tesla stuff imo. I'd buy a Goulds or J-class or Grundfos. If the Pump has a Franklin Electric motor on it, it's Quality! Cheap pump have short lives & don't lift from very deep. I did a Video on Amazon pumps showing just that.
Very Informative
What about a new replacement pump, new pressure tank, new switch/nipple and pressure gauge but only getting 20 psi the most?
Thanks for good video.
I replaced my pump and try to test by hooked up the power to the control box before hook the tank
Water come out slow
Please help
How deep is the water level and what are the specs on the pump? Jet or submersible?
Great explanation. Thank you.
Hey H20 Mechanic! Great Video. We have an issue with our well where after about 5-10 minutes of running the water our water pressure goes down drastically. Approximately 25% of normal water pressure. We have a feeling the water pressure tank is not getting filled quickly enough and runs low and we getting poor flow rate from well. We have lived in the house for about 16 years. The well was drilled before we moved in. I have replaced the well pump about 12-14 years ago. We had folks come out this week and replace the water pressure tank because the pressure gauge was not functioning correctly and they told me the bladder in the water pressure tank was faulty.. The new water pressure tank did not correct the low pressure issue. So I am thinking perhaps a problem with the well pump or possibly the well itself. We live in the NE and are still in a drought. Any suggestions or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
Depth of well & depth of pump would help me determine the issue properly.
1st it sounds like the water level is low in the well & runs out of pumpable water mid way thru. Possibly a leaky toilet in the house thats draining the well slow but 24/7 . So inspect toilets carefully!!!
Secondly. 14 years is at the service life of the pump, its time for the motor to die (bearings fail inside) or the pump end could be worn out inside (impellers) & not allowing pressure to build.
Turn off well breaker and wait 60 minutes and see if the pressure on the gauge drops to 0. It should hold steady if no water is leaking out.
@@h2omechanic Thanks so much for the information. We are having someone come out next week to check the well - depth of well, depth of pump, flow rate etc. I am hoping it's the pump. The well guy who is coming out does not think it's the pump. At this point, it makes sense to replace the the well pump in my opinon. We also had our neighbors drill a new well this summer which is around the timeframe we starting having issues. At that time we were in a draught and thought the draught was the issue for the low water pressure. I will try you recommended test today and let you know what happens.
Update!!! The well pump was faulty and replaced. In addition the flex tubing was replaced due to manganese build up. The good news is that there is plenty of water in the well
Great news! Thanks for your update!
@@josephecannon reading this I was even worried for you that the neighbor was taking to much water. But that's good news
Put in a new pump, tank, pressure switch, control box. Will pressure up 40-60 and run for about 15 min then water flow comes down to a drip, but then will kick back up for a few minutes. Any ideas
I am having an issue where my water will shuddering out of the faucets pretty violently every now and then, as if there is water in the line. Any idea what could be putting water in my system? Where is a good place to start?
Any resolution?
@@stlouisx50 nope
Have you ever heard of over amperage at the switch coming from the well pump?
If amps are too high, that's an indication that the pump is bad. The bearings in the motor are shot, so amps are higher bx its not running smooth
I have a well pump like you showed in this video and thank you it was informative. Can I leave that pump right where it's at and run an external pump in my basement? In other words instead of pumping the water i want the external pump to suck/draw the water from inside the house and using the same line. I have about 20 psi at the gauge so I'm sure it's either cracked or broke somehow.
Sprinklers run fine for 10 minutes then pressure drops to below 20psi. What do you think is wrong. Thankyou
Probably running the well dry faster than it's filling up. I'd assume you have different zones. Try cutting off 25-30% of the heads and see if it lasts longer. If not try 50% of them off & repeat. If it still goes below 20 psi in 10 minutes with half of the heads off, you'll know that it's likely the pump or tank. Does your system have a tank? Or is it a timer run system?
I've got no water after a cold snap on a fixer upper property with some shoddy plumbing. The pressure tank appears to be fine, but its sitting at 22-23 PSI with a 30/50 switch and I don't have an air compressor right now. Pressure gauge that was already installed is busted so I can't get a reading off that. When I test the contacts on the pressure switch they spark but the submersible pump will not cycle. Around the well casing itself there is water pooled aboveground which I can guess is not good. Any help is appreciated I am totally inexperienced with wells.
Kill the power & see if the pressure drops to 0. If it does, then you should pull the pump and look for a busted pipe.
An ice broke can make a pump dead head & itll bust the drop pipe.
Great video thank you can a jack hammer drive a two inch pipe and what is the smallest diameter submersible pump on the market today again a great video you can tell you are good at what you do in Michigan we have all kinda different water problems how far do u think a driven well can go
I think my pump has a faulty check valve. I noticed the 40/60 pressure switch cycling off and on rapidly (within just a few seconds) with the main valve shutoff turned off to the house. The pressure was leaking back into the well. I replaced the switch (burnt contacts due to cycling so much) and i replaced the pressure tank (old one spit water out of the tire valve) and i added a pvc in-line check valve as soon as the pipe exits the well. Now, the rapid cycling of the switch has stopped, but the well pump us now spitting air every 45 seconds or so. So, i have diagnosed (i hope) one of two possibilities.....1. The pipe from the pump to the pvc in-line check valve is cracked and allowing the water to drain back into the well, sucking air in. OR.....2. The water level in my well has dropped and now the pump is sucking air. What do i do? I thought about replacing the pipe with a longer one by a few feet and dropping the pump deeper, but im not sure how much depth i have before its sucking sand. It is the black flexible, 100psi pipe that you mentioned, and i inspected it and cannot see any visible cracks. Fittings look ok as well. Somehow air is getting into the system consistantly about every 45-60 seconds, and it seems like thats coresponding with how long it takes to cycle off/on. Theres a bad leak somewhere inside the well casing. Any ideas, thoughts, suggestions? Well is 26 years old. Never had a supply ir recovery issue with it before. Thanks, Don
Your #1 thought is correct.
Adding the check valve stops water back flowing at that point. But the pipe behind it keeps draining and that creates a air pocket in line.
Pull the pump out & replace the pump or add a Simmons brass check valve directly to the top of the pump.
It's possible that it's a cracked fitting as well. You'll find it once it's out.
Also Check the tanks air pressure, a tank low on air can be the cause of short cycles. Videos on tanks on my channel teach you how to test/set tank correctly
Hey Men thank you for your video exelent. Can you talk about solar pump please.
My circuit breaker keeps tripping in about 2min time even though I tested the breaker, replaced the pressure switch and I believe the tank is still good. I would appreciate any thoughts that you might have. Thanks in advance!
I,m in texas I covered the well, turned the power off to the water we ll,drained the pipes before we left town for a couple of days. Came home turned the water on and water came shooting out of the vent. Any suggestions ?????????
What vent?
Even after draining a system, it's not 100% dry. It's just 0 on pressure. You probably have a frozen pipe
Yes, partially frozen. Could hear t clearing, thanks for your videos, very much appreciated and very informative. Thanks again, God Bless.
Moved into a home and I get water for 10 min and then slowly lowers and then sputters and shoots out air really hard. It has an above ground pump. Anyway after sputtering then I'm out of water for around 12 to 19 minutes or so before the pressure is back and this cycle repeats
So you can imagine how horrible a shower is during doing laundry
Any tips?
Very informative thanks
hi i have a new pump and I moves it to a location closer to the well, and now when I turn it on it starts up fine until it reaches the cut off pressure.it shuts off and clicks right back on and then clicks off .clicks on. and the pressure drops while it does that but when it reaches the staring point it doesn't stay on may more it just keepa clicking on and off. untill i disconnect it wait a minute or so and when it's energized it starts again like before and repeats this cycle again. the pump is new about a month old. please advise if you have any idea of what is going on.thank you
thank you for your videos they are very informative, and easy to understand what you are explaining about the functions and operations of the pumps.i appreciate you taking time to help out folks.