Monolith M-215 vs SVS PB16 Subwoofer Showdown
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ต.ค. 2024
- Monolith M-215 vs SVS PB16 Subwoofer Showdown. Today we put the Monolith M-215 head to head against the SVS PB16 Ultra subwoofer using REW (Room EQ Wizard.
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That's about how I thought it would turn out. This is one place the automotive and audio worlds overlap in that there really is no replacement for displacement. The M215 has both more cone area and cabinet volume than the PB16, so it's no surprise that it has a ludicrous amount of LF extension that the PB16 does not. It also highlights how well designed the PB16 is as it's able to keep up with the M215 in its upper range. Dollar for dollar, both products have very compelling pros and cons.
So it really comes down to how much space you have in your theater setup and how much you care about sub-bass response. Both seem to be fantastic products that will fill different roles for different people, and in the end, we win as consumers.
Very well said. Completely agree with you.
As much as I’m an SVS fanboy, I’d suggest with twice the cone & cabinet size a noticeable victory to Monoprice unfortunately 🤭😔
Monolith could have def gained more output at higher frequencies by inceasing the port tuning frequency. There would have been a significant increase in output compared to the svs. It's like they are both V8 engines, but the monolith is a big block with a mild cam for low end power and a flat torque curve, while the svs is a small block with a more radical cam for higher peak power.
Good analogy Steven
Great comparison, thank you. Fun fact: In my admittedly small viewing/listening area my humble SVS SB 2000's stay flat to 10hz. I think that most sealed enclosures tend to go lower than most ported enclosures. I also watched Godzilla KOTM recently, as well as a movie called A Quiet Place, and the room was breathing at times. I didn't measure the frequencies, but when A Quiet Place finally stopped being Quiet, there were scenes where you couldn't hear bass at all, only feel the room moving. To each their own, but it's sealed subs for me!
That’s awesome. I reviewed dual SB16 in my room but they didn’t have the impact I was looking for. Dual PB16 were what I was looking for.
A Quiet Place is a great demo disk.
I wonder how many watts worth of electricity it cost you to drive basically a "suction pump".....
(For others) The more louder you want your sound (especially at 10hz) the more the cone has to move, in this case with the box being sealed, when the driver cone goes out, it creates a huge vacume in the sealed box, and conversely when the driver cone has to go back into the box, it has to hugely compress the air......
These pulls and pushes into the available air not only makes it harder for the cone to travel, which greatly reduces responsiveness, but to accomplish this feat, it requires huge amounts of strength, thats both electricity and added heat to the coil, which in a "sealed box" can not so eaisily disapate......
Basically this gentleman above me has baught himself (with respect) a huge submarine..... because thats how they work when they have to dive and surface, they either compress or uncompress huge volumes of air to acheave buoyancy..... 😂😂😂😂 would i buy a SB version, Never.....
But some people like them for whatever reason..... they are cheeper, and save space, best option is to buy a SB and buy a kit box, build your own, and sell your SB box and save half the price of a PB version...... yet have the un restrained sound and added cooling 🤔...... makes ya think ey?....
I prefer ported when drivers are 15” or smaller due to the extra output. But once you get to 18” and above, I feel sealed is a phenomenal option. You do not have to worry about port chuffing (which almost every ported sub has to some extent), cabinets can be much smaller and you typically get lower extension. Ported subs also have to be careful playing below their tuning frequency as they will unload and begin to flop around like a fish out of water.
Pretty sure the steep roll off of the SVS sub below 20Hz is a Highpass filter to save the driver from overexcursion.
Below the tuning frequency, drivers in ported cabinets run into overexcursion very easily.
Correct, it’s intentional.
I love the enthusiasm on your videos. It always puts me in a good mood when you drop a new one
Thanks Khalif!
Sub Sonic frequency: the sounds you want to feel.
My entire room felt it
@@Youthman oh yeah no doubt! Love to feel that sub 20hz!
Its Infrasonic frequencies.
Why judge? I like to feel all the frequencies! Mid bass slam in the chest and throat all day too
I always love seeing the Monoliths sub 20hz response haha! Always beef way down town to 10hz, even the single Mono 15” does this.
Yeah it’s pretty crazy
You need to compare the Monolith 215 with the JTR Captivator RS 2 and see how close the Monolith can get for $1000 less.
I do not have the M-215 any longer to do a direct comparison
Not even a competition the m215 is amazing! And I am buying one as soon as they are back in stock.
Did you get one?
Thanks for the video Youthman. FYI, right now Monoprice has the M-215 on sale (20% off) for $1,999.99 vs. $2499.99 for the PB-16 Ultra!
Thanks Youthman. I'm considering a Monolith M-215 to replace my old Sunfire sub. I'm also trying to find more info on the Rythmik FV25HP. It's similar to the M-215, but it's a servo sub. Can't find many reviews on it.
That's what I'm trying to find out
I’ve had the opportunity to test the SVS PB 16 and SB 16. I was disappointed as bass output on the lower end wasn’t solid.
The monolith and Power Sound Audio S3611 have ridiculous low end extension
Monoprice needs to make a version of this with 12, 10, and 8 inch subs
Probably testing the market for their dual 15”, first.
I agree with you 100%! Sadly not much dual driver home theater subs in the market that has dual 12s, dual 10s or 8s that is still in the market. If they are still in the market, it's either discontinued or the cost of an arm and leg cough.... JL Fathom lol. Most companies I notice stick to dual 15s and 18s like PSA and JTR. Dual 15s or 18s is nice, but the enclosure is way too big. So far the only company I have seen that has dual 12s is rythmik audio L22. It's an affordable price in a sealed enclosure.
not to much reason to do a dual 10 or 12 inch sub, at that point just do a single 15 inch. its a dual cabinet not a dual sub. meaning you still want to buy 2 of any sub to even out room response 1 sub in front 1 in back. the reason the do dual 15 and 18 is dual 18s is bigger than 1 24 inch sub and there is only 1 company I know of that even makes a 24 inch sub. so dual 18s is easier. same with dual 15s that probably like a 21 inch subwoofer. going with a dual 10 inch would be like a single 13 inch but still not dig as low as a single 12.
@@philiplubduck6107 I have 4 15 inch definitive tech Super Cube references and they produce bass so low you cant hear and they shake the neighbors house yes they have complained. But for music in my opinion they are too slow. I hook up my little 12 cheap bic subwoofer and it keeps up amazingly with music and sounds better than the 15s. I think dual 10s or 12s would be perfect for music. I'm thinking of making a set up just for 2 channel music
www.blu-ray.com/community/gallery.php?member=Alpha+Sixx
there is my setup but I've upgraded and made some changes. I was running 9.4 back in 2011
And that's when the neighbors started gathering torches and pitchforks. 😂
Haha I wish I had room for any of them.
But in my small 3 x 4 meter room 1 sb 1000 at 50% power is shaking the walls.
I plan to get 2 sb 3000 and that will be my end game setup.
I really want to get an equal bass response throughout the entire room and an even better bass for music.
Dual SB3000 in a small room will work great
I knew all along that the M-215 would come out as the victor here. I can't wait for your review on testing two M-215s at the same time (if you're planning on doing one). 🖒😁
No I do not have any plans on receiving a second M-215
A second would provide 6dB more in gain and would likely fix the dip in the 40Hz range
@@Youthman Ah. I see. Just as expected.🖒
If you're using movies for demo try the movie, Battleship skip to the part where the first battle starts and the shield dome goes up.
Two Mono's behind your screen would destroy your block! I would love it!
Hahaha
I’m actually wanting to upgrade to (4) sealed 18’s behind my screen
@@Youthman Nice which ones?
@@Youthman PSA?
I think Youthman is considering 4 PSA s3611's
Bravo sir. Years from now when I'm ready I know what I'm going to pick up.
By then, they will likely have something bigger and better to offer
So a pretty standard reaction, where you have double the cone area, Yeah those lows for sure! What about the PB16 Ultra?
What about the PB16 are you asking?
@@Youthman Just wanting to know if the PB16 Ultra is the PB16 you're referring to?
SovL:Remedy ???
Measurements or no Measurements the Ear does not lie. Keep up the great work!
Thanks. I like to verify measurements with my ears
Lol 😂 that intro though,"which sub will go home crying to their mummy". I still prefer the svs looks and presence though, moreover the svs is just one 15" driver compared to two monolith 15" drivers,so I guess we were expecting this result
Haha Brad did a killer job on the voiceover.
Youthman lol he sure did.should we expect more of this?
Not sure. He came over to help me dial in my new LED light and he brought a few colored lights for the background. And as we began talking, we decided to come up with a creative intro
Let's all remember that it's a comparison to determine dollar value based on Performance results. Based solely on performance, the M 215 indeed is a better value.
The better aesthetics and settings flexibility of the Ultra PB16 is also a strong factor to consider. There are subs that will out performs these two, but they cost 2 to 4 times more (see JL Gotham and Paradigm Signature, as examples). Still others are twice the size of the M-215.
David, I'm not sure the JL Gotham would outperform this. I heard one many years ago and was not impressed.
I had no doubt the monolith would win. I liked the tests.🔊👍
Thanks!0
Simple mathematics
15 × 2 vs 16 × 1....... lol......
For a dedicated theater room I’d choose the 215, for my living room, the PB16 can blend much better. I also recently had the opportunity to use the SVS warranty and it was a breeze.
I agree. I don’t see the M-215 going into too many living room setups.
If I was going crazy big I may opt also for the S7201 over the 215 for pure shock and awe.
The monolith spanked that SVS sub buddy
Would the Sub with two speakers be considered One Subwoofer or Two when it’s apart of your surround system?
A subwoofer with two woofers is considered a single subwoofer
Nice performance in the audible frequencies by the smaller pb16
Monolith M-215 THX CERTIFIED!!!!
DONE!!!
I WILL MAKE IT FIT!!! Lol SORRY LOVEY!! Lolol Youth-Bro!! Blow the Doors off!!
I say SVS PB16 Ultra will be the better subwoofer from the two .
gary fietcher
I say the same.
I agree
Not even close. Get 2 of those dual 15s for each side that are actually cheaper than the SVS. Those monoprice subs kick ass
Very informative video as usual Youthman not to mention I'm loving the intro lol... To be honest I'm not surprised at the results, that said... I'm very surprised the svs was able to go toe to toe with the monolith from 20hz up. One of the things we can take away from this video I think is that different manufacturers have different approaches to electronics and what they want to accomplish. With the monolith we can see they went for all out no compromise when it can to output and low frequency performance. With the svs they also went for much of the same but with more focus on easy if use features. At the end of the day we have two amazing products to suit different consumers which is a win win in my opinion 😊
I completely agree. Anytime a consumers has choices, that’s great. Both are certainly excellent choices.
I'm so happy you did this comparison, now I know what I am buying, monolith m215, great explanation 👍 👏 😀
When you put two sub's in close proximity, you will get more than 3dB increase in output inside your room. Your suggestion that you would need 3 or 4 SVS to equal the output of the Monolith may not be correct.
I checked with a friend who is much smarter than I in regards to that and that was his estimation
Svs has been dethroned?
All hail Monolith 💆🏾♂️
LOL
Not really that cut and dry imo. In the most usable range the SVS kept up and the cabinet is much smaller. To me in a dedicated room with subs hidden behind a screen and/or behind seats, the Monolith wins. If you have a living room theater, the SVS wins. To me the Monolith should roll off sooner and increase the output more where it matters. Now which would I rather have? The Monolith!
Commander Russels I know....it was a joke.
@@dwalker112 sorry I have autism
Hahaha dethroned? They have always been the leader in overpriced sub for $2500
Nasty intro!! Nasty editing, Nasty voice. Nice Youthman!!
Thanks! It was a lot of work but a LOT of fun to make
@@Youthman I bet it was 💪💪🔥🔥🔥
Sick nasty
Youthman who did that voice over 🔥
That was my friend Brad. It’s pretty crazy to hear in person.
Youthman, if you still have the Monolith subs around, could you do another rew measurement. I’ve seen in another video that after the subs are broken in, they start losing spl under 30hz. Maybe you could try and validate this oddity..?
How does the M-215 do with music response? I know SVS states that the PB-16 was designed to be both good and responsive for both home theater and music.
Terrific video. Lighting is on point! I'm curious how much of that compression on the PB16 Ultra is due to the electronic limiting from SVS. I'm wondering if the compression test above 20hz would look different for the SVS. I wouldn't expect you to do that test consider how crazy heavy those are!
Thanks Joe. I considered testing 20Hz and above but I feel that isn’t very helpful considering when watching a movie your receiver isn’t limiting the frequencies to only 20Hz and above.
If I would have done the same for the Monolith, it would have likely increased as well
The difference at the null is strange! If placed in the same location they should be similar, or even less (two point sources) on the Monolith (depends on between which walls/ceiling the modes occur). I would also would like to know the difference in sound quality when playing music ... VERY few subs are acceptable for quality music playback.
My channel is primarily Home Theater so unfortunately I don’t do much 2ch listening. I don’t see someone needing this for 2ch.
Subs were in the same exact location. Front baffles were placed at the front edge of my riser and against the wall.
Great great review Youthman! I'm starting to realize in my journey that I value a lot more flat response to 20 Hz in a sub and then more higher output on up. There's just not enough content that's worth chasing those deep waters. A subwoofer like the PB 16 or my dual PB 4000's in extended mode that give great output to 16hz flat are more then enough. But for anyone that wants a sub that can do it all output overall very high with deep extension into those deep waters that Monolith is an amazing option what a great buy!
My friend has (4) 18’s that reach single digits. It’s an incredible experience
@@Youthman Man I'm sure it is maybe it's one of those things of if you've never heard it you can't know what you don't know. I've never heard a system yet that could do that so I dont know what I'm missing I just don't know if I wanna do the extra work to get there. In my theater room size I'm getting 2 more PC 4000's to go with the PB 4000's 4 of those run in extended mode should be enough for me I'm thinking. At least I hope so! Lol
6 × PB4000's....... thats quiet insane.... you could rent them out to demolition companies.....
As for 4 × 18 inch twins..... well.... single didgit "infrasound"..... organ damadge.... they can kill @ 7hz, did you know that, as that is a human bodys resonance point.......
I’ve played my subs many times down to 5Hz and I’m still doing just fine. You would need extreme amount of pressure at those frequencies to kill you.
God I love these videos you make! It's right up my alley in entertainment. Thanks Youthman! It was really educational.
Thank you Rafael! I appreciate the encouraging words
Thx Youthman for the nice comparison! I also might play around with REW 👍
It’s a lot of fun and can show you what is happening in your room
I think there is something like a subsonic filter on the SVS, i wonder how those monolith woofers handle those lower frequencies over longer time..
I’m not sure myself
As was mentioned already...plug 1 port on the PB16 and this test would look very different. Might be a good idea to mention this caveat up front.
The goal of this was to try and keep as many variables the same (levels, position of sub, position of mic, and both subs with ports opened).
You are correct. By sealing one port on the PB16, this test would have looked very different. The output increased output on the PB16 below 20Hz would have caused a decrease in output below 20Hz which would have made the Monolith have a higher output across the entire frequency response.
Just mention it is all. The ability to alter your frequency curve is a major strength of the PB16 and you failed to even mention it. Obviously the Monolith with double the drivers and cabinet volume has more overall output. We don’t need this test to show us that. The overall frequency response is far more useful info.
Great video grest testing. Would like to see the impulse response and group delay of both subs.
Have no idea how to show that.
How much MUSIC is there below 20 Hz? The lowest string on a standard four string bass is (E) 41.2 Hz, on a six string bass its (B) 30.8 Hz, and the bottom key on a piano is (A) 27.5 Hz. The majority of the "boom" from a big concert bass drum is about 50 Hz, and the bass drum on a jazz style trap set is actually about 100 to 150 Hz!
It seems to me that the SVS folks looked at actual music and designed their product to deliver it.
Most people are buying this sub for movies, not for music. Definitely complete overkill for that.
I can't help but laugh when you do a sweep. I can hear all the stuff in your house shake. Greatness!
Yeah it’s pretty bad lol
Do you remember how the speed of these subs compared? Was one snappier or cleaner, etc than the other?
Youthman, The M-215 does have slightly more output from 20 hz to 80+ hz (remember the M-215 Green line which only had compression at approx 15 hz despite another +3 db output at all other frequencies). So not much more but a bit more output from the M-215 (as would be expected), and more importantly as you state - the ONE PB16 is keeping up with Dual 15s from 18 hz to 80+ hz! That SVS 16 inch Woofer / 8 inch Voicecoil is to Die for! Competition is good! Having options even better!!! I for one cannot believe that another subwoofer actually makes the PB16 Ultra look not so big.
Thanks. There are plenty of subs that make the PB16 look small (JTR and PSA make several)
Youthman, try to get your hands on a Bill Fitzmaurice horn subwoofer.
Great video. Very scientific! Would love to see you do some measurements and comparisons on subwoofers from HSU Research.
I have reached out to them in the past with no response. 👍
@@Youthman I only ever see them active on AVS forums, nowhere else. I don't think they care to much about social media exposure, which is a mistake in my opinion. It's clearly done nothing but good things for SVS, and now, Monoprice.
Youthman. Kind of a late comment but, can you do this with testing out which phase is best. So you put the umik in your listening position. Start phase at 0, run 1 sweep. turn the phase to 10 degrees, run another, rinse and repeat to 180 degree
Then see which phase percentage gave best results?
I have done that with multiple subs before but not during that review
@@Youthman sorry I meant, can I do that. Is that the best technique to do find out the best phase percent.
Right now I've just been winging it
Yes you can absolutely do that. If you only have one subwoofer it shouldn’t change. If it’s interacting with another subwoofer that’s typically when you might need to change the phase to prevent cancellations
Which one punches harder when playing music?
If it wasn’t for Michael, there’d be a dearth of info on so many levels. He’s single-handedly placed JTR in front of thousands.
Thank you for the kind words
Wow - that Monolith is crazy!
Very impressive for sure
Wow! Who did the Movie Guy voice at the beginning! That was excellent 👏!
That’s my friend Brad from Home Theater Gamer
@@Youthman He did a great 👍 job,I thought he was Movie Guy!
You must consider distortion. The output of the Monolith could have large amounts of 3rd harmonic at those low frequencies when at high amplitudes.
Absolutely. I need to spend some time with someone who knows how to look at distortion. Can I see that info with the frequency sweeps I ran?
Youthman yes sir you can. Rew forum goes into how to display and read it
Bon Scott thanks I’ll check it out
When I was young, so many years ago, I found one and only one constant in determining quality of reproductive devices.
(This does not apply to my very personal equipment.)
The ability to reproduce Square waves. I sold Harmon Kardon products and their mantra was frequency response and linearity of amplitude made a GREAT tool to measure audio quality and a good square wave demonstrated success in this. I've seen nothing that countervails this thought.
To reproduce an AUDIO square wave is crazy hard, especially as you approach frequency extremes. The bandwidth for a really accurate amplifier regularly exceeds 200 KHZ. Dropping down to the bass region, the opposite must be present to produce a (relatively) undistorted wave form. That is to say, an accurate representation of what is being introduced by the input requires a flat response well below the signal being reproduced.
H/K had said at least ten times the signal frequency was needed to do 20 KHZ square waves. Going the opposite way, my guess, flat to
2 HZ to do a proper 20 HZ square wave is necessary.
Please do NOT lecture me on the difficulties. I am cognizant.
Not sure why you are expecting a lecture.
@@Youthman A youngster wanted to inform me that Audioholics was a worthwhile site while disparaging you in comparison and that aligning with you was wrong. I don't need too much of that before I get testy. This exposition is just for informational purposes and I didn't want a clamor from the ill-informed.
Your honest comments, based on empirical findings, needed to be defended against fanboys and explained to the righteous.....
I find your enthusiasm to be something that should be promoted. Not having every measuring device doesn't negate a physical experience.
I guess theres no replacement for displacement!
Nope
Love the intro! Have a question though. Why does the Monolith have way more dip in the 40-50 Hz range than the SVS? Does it have something to do with having 2 subs? I wouldn't think so, since the wavelength in that range is around 25 feet, so there shouldn't be be any significant phase difference between the 2 subs. So maybe due to the difference in the location of the subs in the Monolith vs. the SVS and the effects of that in your room? Sort of like a room placement issue.
Honestly I’m not sure. Both subs were placed in the same location with their front baffles at the edge of my riser.
jimbert50 yes it is height mode from room. Since the second driver is higher up from floor
Whoa!
Totally awesome video!
Loved the intro from Brad. Haha!
You may not "hear" below 20 Hz, but you can certainly "feel" it.
Thanks for the great review.
Gotta go buy some lottery tickets... :)
Brad did an awesome job on the voiceover. I spent several hours making just the intro. Lol
So if your reciever goes to 0, and the sub still hasn't reached compression, does that mean i can increase the gain on my sub?
Keep up the good work youth man. Allways a joy watching your videos.
Thank you EJ
Great review as always. Bottom line.. if you go with the monolith, don’t bother going dual. It would just way too much for a typical family theatre room.
Haha for sure. One reason you might want to have dual subs is to provide smoother base response throughout multiple seating positions
Lol..... the "room" would become a speaker box, and the door would be the bass-reflex port, i bet it would sound amazing in the kitchen upstairs, or a bedroom..... 4 of those "monsters" if they made a twin 18" version 😂😂😂😂
Good test!!! Thanks Youthman, please some day test the HSU Research VTF15 vs your SVS16.
Thanks
custom 18in Fi HT1 had compression around 120-123db
Youthman per 20:11 I think in your room you'd be better with two (or four) smaller subs. Do you have any room behind your rear row to put some subs, something in the back would help out a lot in there! If your rear row is right up against the back wall I wonder if something shallow depth would work well. Thanks for reviewing these.
No room behind my rear seats. Room is only 19’ deep. I can get rid of the nasty null using dual subs behind my screen as seen in this video - th-cam.com/video/eXfH9WH8Yw8/w-d-xo.html
loving your intros here. Awesome work as well as great video.
Thank you kindly
Would be nice to see them side by side for size.
Love the intro thts dope 2 bulls in one yard
Thank you! I worked a long time in that one. Love how it turned out
Can you lay the monoprice on its side and still get the same performance or does it have to stand upright?
Youthman PLEAASEEEE use Kong Skull Island and edge of tomorrow as your bass test for movies for the subwoofers ..KONG SKULL ISLAND IS LOADED WITH SUB SONICS!!!
Are you going to get the PSA TV42? I would love to see numbers on that.
No plans as of yet
My tought was that, But coudent wait so I take the smaller ones, dual psa tv36ipal
Ok so that’s one test... what about listening to music? How about attack/ speed and sound quality? Low bass extension is great but not as a trade off for good sound quality. Please give us some more information. Thanks
The JD D Tudor. I don’t see most people using this sub for 2ch.
How to you quantify attack and speed? Those would be highly subjective opinions at best.
My channel focuses on real world home theater application so I can’t offer much in the area of 2ch.
I mentioned quality in the video. The Monolith sounded cleaner during the beginning of Godzilla than the Pb16 did.
Hey Youthman. I enjoy your reviews and thought you mentioned something about input level problems with the M-215? I just received one today and cannot get the input signal high enough. I contacted Monolith and am waiting. Did you have this problem and if so, how did you solve it? I am thinking of buying a gain box. Just seems like I shouldn't have to do that to get the sub to perform as it should.
At a little less than $2500 i think Psa v3601 or s3601 would take the crown
I have reviewed and measured the PB16 vs S3601. The S3601 was pretty insane.
Love your reviews Youthman! I just received my😂 M-215 this afternoon and can only guess it is defective. Really hoping you have some insight to share. At 6db I’m getting almost no excursion, even on monster bass techno tracks. At full gain it’s okay- probably 20% better that the HSU MK-II it replaced but the mains have to be crazy loud at that level and the HSU is only at half volume. I’ve seriously got a display shelf 2’ away from the sub and none of my wife’s nicknacks have moved an inch. It’s a large room with vaulted ceilings but I was expecting maybe triple the output. Do I send it back and get another? Is there a way to test it to make sure it’s an issue with the sub and not with my expectations?
Hi Josh. Sorry to hear you’re having issues with the sub. The first thing I do when troubleshooting a sub is to isolate the sub itself. Best way is to connect a 3.5mm to RCA cable from your phone to the RCA inputs on the sub and play some bass heavy music. If you aren’t getting ridiculous spam, reach out to their technical support as the sub may have been damaged in shipping.
Not surprised the Monolith won. If space/looks are not important, the Monolith is the clear winner and the better bang for your buck for the extra low end.
I am equally surprised with how well the SVS held its own from 20hz up. I’d expect there to be more output with the monolith. Interesting. Also the monolith doesn’t have dsp built into the amp. IMO I would go with the SVS for that fact alone. Being able to tailor the frequency response to help with dips and nulls is huge IMO. Proper set up cannot be understated with subwoofers to get the best performance out of them.
Nice video!
Thanks. The MiniDSP offers a lot more control than the built in SVS DSP. Also, you can’t fix bulls with DSP.
Youthman im such a mob with TEW and the eq on the svs sub.
Can you do a video of how to use it to try to smooth out the response in your room?
Bateman61405 this video should help - SVS APP - Complete Tutorial | Controlling SVS Subwoofers th-cam.com/video/Ct9N2QiEVvg/w-d-xo.html
Youthman! You have a great channel. I've been watching all of your videos as I've built my modest home theatre and I want to say THANK YOU for all the amazing ideas! One quick question, do you have a video that serves as a "Beginners Guide" to the REW program? I'd love to learn some sound calibration basics to get my 7.2.4 system optimized for my space. Keep it up!!
Thank you Dan, unfortunately I do not have a beginners guide to REW video video
@@Youthman Well . . . there's still time :) Thank you for the FAST response. Keep up the good work! You have a cornerstone channel for home audio.
I appreciate the kind words
Good comparison but I got to ask. How much content is in the sub 20hz area? Most people can't hear below 30ish. Plus I wonder how many people want a super big cabinet like the m2. I guess to each there own.
There is quite a bit of content below 20Hz. Massive upgrade going from dual PB16’s to dual JTR Captivator RS2’s. I measured 115dB @ 8Hz. It’s not about what you hear, it’s about feeling it.
Wow that intro was the best thing ever
Thank you Thanos! I worked a long time on it
Would have liked to know how the THX-1200-SW SUBWOOFER Compared to these
I wasn’t impressed with it
Great review! I finally got a chance to watch this. I've been busy with the VA. Man they d--k us vets around! Again great review! That Monolith is a beast! I'm still contented with my 2 PB 13 Ultra's. They get the job done. Keep up the great work Youthman!
Thanks. I have a friend that is a VA. He has similar struggles with them.
I too enjoy my PB16’s. I probably will not upgrade until I’m ready to go with (4) 18’s
Love your videos. Do the same test over at Brad's house. Put your back into it 😬
Hahaha I have NO desire to move this beast more than I have to
Next, you should try Rythmik.
👌 All of your videos are incredibley fun and informative keep up the great work. ✌️
Thank you for the kind words
That's interesting about the null with the Monolith. Both the SVS and Monolith were tested in the exact same position, right?
Exact position. I get that null with the single SVS behind my screen. Running dual subs behind my screen fixes that - th-cam.com/video/eXfH9WH8Yw8/w-d-xo.html
Love the intro. Another great video, Youthman! 😉👍
Thank you.
Would love to see this same test with a full Marty box with um18-22 driver
I’ve heard great things about the Martys
I'm waiting on my boxes to finish the glue drying process. I'm now scared to see how both will destroy my room. I cant thank you enough for the cool reviews! Much love from south Tx!
Hey Youthman,when are you going to get your hand on a dual REL sub.
Not sure.
Great video youthman if i was buying a sub it would be PB16 ultra .
It’s a fantastic sub.
Awesome video YM. Thanks for the update.
Thank you
What if you EQ the Monolith to match the response of the PB16 and then find compression? I assume that the 20Hz and up spl would increase significantly.
I’m not sure how to do that without something like a MiniDSP
@@Youthman MiniDSP is exactly what I was thinking. You have all the cool toys so I assumed you had one.
SO for 100% music, does output at less than 18hz really matter?
No. Sub 20Hz is primarily for movies although some music may have sub 20Hz content.
Also, how do u decide whats the 'optimal' sub gain level without frying it or whatever?
Decibel meter,
Measure to listen and here about the max, calibrate the volume know so that you don't max out your subwoofer.
You need to determine the max capabilities that the subwoofer can run without stressing the sub or amp.
Head room is when you have more than enough bass that your are not even near the max subwoofer output and it's too loud
That monolith is something ELSE! Kinda takes away from the SVS swingers who think they're the be all end all. I do wonder, however, dollar for dollar, how well the M-215 can keep up with a decent DIY sub.
You think Monoprice is willing to take The Budget Audiophile up on a challenge?
Look up the Devastator ported horn with a B&C 21DS115-4 woofer. Less than $1,200 and it would take at least 5 PB16s to keep up. Absolutely insane midbass.
John Phillips oh were well aware here at Budget Audiophile. My buddy has built a few VBSS setups and I've considered doing a BOSS setup. I've got a 6.4CF sealed box with a 390HF in it that reaches silly low and gets very loud. I've got a gigantic theater (about 10000 cubic feet) and just one of them wakes up my theater. Couple that with its twin 390HF in another cabinet and 3 18s (one front, two rear), and it's insane. Which reminds me, I've changed a lot about my theater I need to do an update video.
John Phillips also, power to Porsche!!!!! Love mine.
I don't think Monolith is trying to compete with DIY. It's not their target audience.
@@Youthman Not at all, good sir! I will say that the M-215 is one of those subs that makes you question sticking with DIY! I'm super impressed with the reviews and demos so far.
I'd love to trial one in my theater to see what it does. It's such a large (oversized) and odd shaped room that it's very difficult to pressurize. I'd sure love to let the Monolith try, though! HAHAHA!
What’s the better sub to go with. I want the best parts and the best sounding\quality bass and the higher at power output. Also I like when they go can really low frequencies and still be quite loud. I know both these subs have there pros and cons and one of them can do some of those things buts not other and vis versa. Which sub should I go with. Please and thank you. And or are there and other subs out there in the same price range of these subs?
great review i am always looking for the best way to spend my stereo dollar as i have a champagne taste and a beer budget I lusted after the jl fathom f113 for years spent several trips to the city to listen to it in sound rooms. I am so lucky i spent years reading reviews trying to decide, do i look for another mirage bps-400 on the used market or do i want to upgrade and try something new. Eventually i found Seaton Sound. I am so glad i couldn't afford the slave subwoofer at the time, I had planned to purchase it later. my living room is 14" by 25" and with just the one seaton submersive and the one mirage bps-400 it sounds like the mountain is actually caving in on me in the movie 1917 the scene wore me out the floor heaves and rolls lol and i live in a log house
Seaton makes nice subs
Great review. I still don't understand all of the hype. You can buy two subs for less, stack them on top of each other and get the same results if not better. 2,500 hundred bucks for one subwoofer is rediculous, you don't need to spend that much for good bass that shakes the room. The huge dip in the frequencies where it counts the most would bother me. The SVS would be the better choice for your room in my opinion. Its about clean and balanced bass, not how low you can go.
Movie theater engineers do not focus on how low they can make the sound in their theaters. They focus on balance, distortion and spl on a given volume such as reference level. Sure, you can have fun and play around with bass. However many guys lose focus. Its not about how low it can go. Most movies don't play below 20-25hz period. If your sub and room extends down to 20hz, you're fine. Even 25hz is satisfactory and pleasurable. By the way, some of what you are feeling and experiencing is subharmonics and resonance your room is producing. Not the subwoofers at all.
If I were to have stacked my PB16's (which I wasn't going to do with them being piano black), they would have added 6dB so they would have outperformed the Monolith M-215 at 20Hz and above but the Monolith still would have spanked it below 20Hz. But then again, you would have to spend another $2500 (twice the cost of the Monolith) so I sure would hope it would outperform it. But then for the same money you could buy dual M-215 and once and get the same results as a 1on1 comparison, only 6dB louder.