This is so cool! This all sounded so intimidating to me at the beginning of the video. I mean, a brand new part was put in and still didn't work... I can totally understand why someone (like me) would then suspect the computer was the culprit. A professional garage had this car and they were ready to call the computer. But you used your amazing teaching of simple circuit design to figure out the computer was functioning just fine, the wiring was fine, so the brand new part had to be the culprit. Man, I just love your book! I just finished a couple of days ago reading it all the way through for the third time. I'm actually starting to get this stuff. What seemed so complicated is beginning to seem kind of simple. That's a sign of a good teacher! I was eating lunch in a restaurant after church today and telling someone about your book. Thanks for making what seems so complicated actually understandable!
Excellent video. Very well researched and completed. Too many garages/mechanics want people to pay for endless parts without carrying out proper checks and tests. This video doesn't only show your skill and understanding but also your integrity and honesty. Well done sir.
Just wanted to say a quick thank you to all of you that support what I am doing. As a lot of you know, ad revenue alone does not pay enough to justify the time involved to produce these types of videos. With filming and editing, there is probably over 15 hours in what you just watched. This is why other creators ask for Patreon donations! I've been asked why I don't offer this, and the reason I don't is because of my Premium channel and book. Instead of supporting me with a donation here, you can support me and get something back in return! In my opinion, what I offer is better than just a donation. If you are dedicated and really want to learn this stuff, my Premium channel and videos can change your life! So consider signing up for my 14 day free trial and at least check it out. Thanks so much for helping me make this possible. www.scannerdanner.com/join-scannerdanner-premium/subscribe-to/3-scannerdanner-premium.html
I’m a member and a SD Premium and supporter. It’s worth every cent and I just feel that I owe him for all his time and effort and also his teaching when I 1st got started in the real life of diagnostics. Now I’m a bad ass just like him. His book is a great learning tool and most of all a great reference book just in case you forget how certain things work. The SD Premium channel is absolutely wonderful any many ways.
Paul, you def get more than just "a little back". Before the days of youtube, in the late 80's early 90's, I always wanted to make a VCR tape of how to diagnose computer controlled cars...but didnt have knowledge or experience (thank God when OBD2 came along and digital recording). When I came across your vids I was like YEA! And when you confirmed importance of the voltage test over the ohms test, again Yea! Your not only a great tech but even better at verbalizing what you are doing....but a God fearing great family man w/a lovely family. Thx for your troubles. We the viewers def appreciate you
1) I cannot believe that I have been so into this that it's already past midnight. 2) Don't take this as an insult, but now (as a bush mechanic without the scan tools) I don't feel quit so silly trying to find a crank but no start issue on my own vehicle. I see that even a pro such as yourself can begin to start scratching his head as to what may be going on. I certainly appreciate the video's and pro-tips that you post on TH-cam! Thanks
My friend, your channel has just become a treasure to me. After 4 years trying to diagnose a P0335 code in my Vauxhall Astra which starts & drives perfectly and doing everything but buy a new car to stop it, I am now really getting to learn what 'other' problems might be tricking the computer into believing it's one thing but is in fact emanating from another. As I am analytically minded and interested in engineering etc but not qualified as a mechanic or tech, these are brilliant instructional videos bud, really top draw stuff. The faulty cam sensor video triggering the CKP error was a light bulb moment for me, and one I am now going to start testing for. You know your beans that's for sure.
I sole ‘proprietored’ an electronics repair shop for many years ..and replaced many he sensors ..this is a great forensic breakdown of the application and use/design of these simple electro-mechanical active devices ..great job Dan ..
I'm blown away. You sir are a real badass. Thankyou so much. I've got a Mercedes with cam correlation code, yet the visual inspection shows timing is not off
Paul I have seen quite a few videos of replacement electronic equipment being faulty. In fact, diagnose Dan just recently posted a video of two defective wheel speed sensors being defective. Makes it tough for the diyer because some electrical components are not returnable and we would question our troubleshooting So glad I have your book and class. Get the book guys will save you a lot of grief. ❤️️
Before I started watching your videos (and others) I never had a way to "see" electrical signals. Having a scope and the ability to see electricity had made understanding systems so much easier. The fix gave me goosebumps too. :)
I'm with he needs to be paid in gold bricks he is a computer running and he understands everything about it great teacher as well thank u for this video u just taught me so much going to be paying u some money u deserve every penny!!
Yes, I have also had quite a few questionable new parts. Seems like a lot of them are made by the same manufacturer, just put in another brand's box . Paul this is were your training is so valuable, by knowing how the basics in the system work you can fight your thru to a successful repair. Don't be a parts changer! It's great that you are bringing content to you tube it shows people how important your paid in depth training really is. I have seen your videos ( You Tube and paid) many times, and each time I pick up something new. NEVER stop learning ! Thanks Paul
Thanks Steven! Do you think I included too much of the classroom lecture (SD Premium stuff) on this one? Maybe I should have kept it to 3 minutes instead of 6? I felt like it was a good time to show the lecture and how much it totally applied to this situation. It is always tough to call a bad new part and knowing circuit design was the key.
Love your detail in your content. I would enjoy your book I bet. I was an instructor for 12 years in the motorcycle industry and we often used your videos in class to get a deeper understanding in the "scan" world as it is finally being encompassed in the 2-wheeled world. I work for an OE now in training. Hope to connect sometime. Once again I get all the work and time you put into this as I have over 600 videos myself on my channel, so from one creator to another...thank you "Keep Wrenching" Shane Conley-How2Wrench
Thanks Paul, great video. I am a member of your premium channel and have your book. I just want to say this really messed my mind up because in all your lectures you always show the transistor being a part of the PCM and with the cam sensor it is internal to it. I just wanted to point this out because your students may have the same problem understanding the pull up and pull down design when the transistor is moved.
Keep watching my friend. I have a ton of lectures showing the difference with "electronic switch inputs". This video had a clip in it from on of many lectures on this topic. Also spend some time in chapter 21 in my hall effect lectures too. Thanks again!
Ahhh, now for the curve ball, some coil on plug ignitions have the transistor in the coil itself (usually 3 wire coils) and some have the transistor in the coil AND an additional 4th wire as a "check" wire to see if the coil has fired properly.
This was fantastic! Been fighting this on my 2015 Rubicon for weeks. I'm an Electrical Engineer for an aerospace company, and while the schematics I had were somewhat helpful, your description of the sensor role in-circuit helped out. I was about to relinquish control of the troubleshooting to the dealership, but after watching this, I'm eager to jump back in. After I changed the shocks out, I think something I think I just disturbed something in one of the wiring harnesses. Likely just shorting to an adjacent line. Will post results when I get shop time. Thank you!
@@TheRoadLessChosen Code was wrong.....suggested to replace the bank 1 Camshaft Pos sensor and it ended up being the bank 2 camshaft position sensor.... or vice versa. Reading the resistance between the pins on the sensor showed different resistances. Replaced the camshaft position sensor on the opposite side that it suggested and it fixed it. Never came back....
AHHHHHHH! you would not believe how many months or mechanics ive gone through before I was finally able to get an honest mechanic to tell me to check that part!!! in 6 months time before it actually gave out it never threw that code 340!!! nor did the check engine light come on! it was just starting whenever it felt like it and eventually took its toll on the battery as well. i replaced the sensor and the battery. car started right up but a longer start time for sure and the check engine light goes on??? still on 4 months later! code never cleared! wont pass smog because nothing reset! then my dear? i found you! and this!!! and i had a feeling all along it was a bad part because of the longer start time and then same code during smog check!!! and because im a woman i can get away with telling you that the scream at the start of my comment was me having an incredible BIG O!!! lmao! your my hero! but i still hate my concord! only 80k miles on this 2000 but have had to replace bcm, fuel rail, both fans and motors!!! then this issue!!! so one more issue and im taking it to the desert outskirts to shoot it and leave it with all the other ponies shot and left out to the elements! hahaha
It's getting harder to get new parts you can trust. Although with Chrysler CMP and O2 sensors, OEM is your best bet.(if you can afford them) Thanks for the excellent vid.
anti chuckle list oem for that sensor Chrysler is $97. Autozone $57 for who knows what quality. Online oem $63 if you can wait. Might get a discount if you talk the dealer into it. Overall, what’s your time worth. I want it done the first time and I want it to last so I shoot for oem or very high quality aftermarket. Autozone or Napa garbage can stay on their shelf.
Awesome video Paul, thats why I am a paid subscriber. Like the way you detailed function wise. how the CPU is interpreting the return signal via the voltage drop across internal CPU resistor, when Transistor opens and shorts to ground. Well done.
Paul you actually sounded like you knew what you were talking about this time. lol Seriously though a newbie coming along could pick up a lot of info in this video. Good stuff!
Excellent! When you think about it, (and now I can smugly write this since I watched your class on pull-down signals) its not that hard understanding such a basic concept like pullup/pulldown. You almost feel as if everyone should know this by now (as I said, Im only being clever since I watched your vids, I had no idea that a pull down signal existed before and I sure as hell would have agreed it needed a pcm reflash) but look at what that could have lead to. They were ready to call on a PCM!!! What if this was a 4000$ pcm? And they got it wrong? My goodness, just like you said, its so unbelievably necessary to know the absolute basics. Those "basics" literally saved that guy from a new pcm and additional headaches. All you did was unplug the sensor and understand what that meant. Haha it sounds almost impossible in its simplicity!! Amazing job, Im so glad Im signed up to premium.
I've been learning a lot by watching you and south main auto I give you two the credit for teaching me how to check crank and cam sensors in my wife's jeep bad brand new cam sensor
It's a must to do full scan I've gotten a few tips from a code in the TCM not registered in the MiL. I'm still on the previous update no auto codes and fast code scan. Looks awesome.
thank you getting back to me i figured it out with your help i did a voltage tested on the new cam sensor to find out the sensor was bad i brought a new one and I'm up and running again thank you for your video
Concerning bad parts (specially electrical) when I purchase a replacement part I ALWAYS perform a test to see if it is working as it's supposed to before installing it!.Safe me both some valuable time and unessesary frustration!
I work in an auto parts shop. Recently we identified an issue with 3 different aftermarket suppliers of ignition coil to suit Toyota 3SGE motor where none of them would work in the Altezza yet as far as we know they work fine in every other Toyota that uses that motor. Only genuine would work. The PCM must be extra fussy about feedback signal or current draw in that model.
Your video is really fun to watch. I’m fixing my own car. I thought if you know how to turn bolts and nuts it can be fixing the repair I need to do in my car, but I’m picking up something on this video training demonstration. Thanks and God bless you.
Man, that was cool to watch. I’m just a DIY car guy and new at it, but I’m trying to learn. I recently changed my cam sensor in my 02 Jeep WJ and all I could find locally was Dorman. I put it in and code and stalling went away. Guess I got lucky? I didn’t set any air gap or anything 😬? Again, guess I got lucky. Thanks for the video
Thanks for the video, I had a p0340 code, bought the cheapest sensors I could find thinking if it fixed the problem I'd buy the expensive AC Delcos, but didn't know for sure that was my problem. Truck ran a little worse, it wasn't until I saw your video where you mentioned getting new parts that were already bad, had that lightbulb 💡 moment, went out, cleaned and scrubbed all the built up gook off the old sensor and boom, no more code. Guess my next step is to buy OEM sensors. Never thought that my NEW sensor would be bad well cause gee, it's New. LOL - thanks for giving me something to think about and ultimately fixing my problem.
I had the same problem with the crank sensor on a 2014 altima 2.5 L. I put in a new $80.00 sensor and still no spark. I thought it was the ECM. Had it towed in. Nissan told me the aftermarket hall effect sensors don't work. Only genuine Nissan sensors work. I learned the hard way.
Even in the Chrysler shop manual it is often confusing if the connector diagram is looking at the end of the connector or the backside (or into sensor), plus not always easy to tell which side is the locking tab. Seems they could spell it out better, or perhaps it is in a little footnote somewhere. Looks like this might be the Chrysler 3.8L like in our 2002 minivan. I know that some Jeeps got that (longitudinal version), instead of the 4.0L straight-six. A fine engine, but many Jeep fans berated it. I recall in my minivan the supply voltage is 8 VDC, shared with the crank sensor. The cam sensor looks identical. The 0.6 V you see is about the forward drop of a diode. A transistor is somewhat like two diodes in series, so if one "diode" is failed shorted, you might see a 0.6 V drop when it should be off, but I'll let an EE comment. I do know that transistors most commonly fail shorted.
Golden information once again I would hang this disposable plate on my Mens cave and store it inside a Picture Frame, it's like having the Moses collection on DVDs 📀
very interesting trying to follow your logic an direction in how you fault find an fix the issue your faced with ...as i said very interesting watching your problem solving skills cheers
Great video. I guess by looking at the data it made a difference on the cam sync and cam difference. Maybe just by looking at . you can see possible sensor failure.
yeah, sometimes it helps to look at data, in this case knowing this was a hard fault with the sensor, it really wasn't necessary but I always like to try to show all the available testing methods
A parts changer, hands down will change the ecm with same results. A honest mechanic with a solid diagnostics skills will call back the supplier and tell them how poorly those parts are made. It happen to me time to time with the local aftermarket stores.
Nice call Mr. Danner. Super "Cheap" after market parts. Not saving anyone a penny! Only good for calling into question the Mechanics competency. Just had a wheel speed sensor within a Hub fail on me after 10,000 Kms (6000 Miles) what a joke. Warranty ? whats the point? they only hand you the same part that will fail again day after tomorrow! Still subscribing to your "Premium Channel". Don't comment much these days but I am still there! Worth every Nickel.
Paul, I used to work for Federated Auto Parts, and we, along with a lot of other parts stores had a policy that you couldn't return sensors and modules if they had been installed. Have you ever had a problem getting a part replaced after it was bad right out of the box? There is an epidemic of crappy sensors out there these days. At least for my own vehicle, I grab whatever OE sensors I can grab every time I go to the salvage yard, just so I have an OE part to replace them with if they ever go bad. I started doing that after having to put 5 different TPS' on my Durango in 1 year.
When I worked in the field full time, I didn't have too much trouble. Also for 5 of those years I worked for Pep Boys so the company itself was providing the parts, so again, not a problem. I know it is a struggle though for sure.
Sadly, you might be right. If someone had changed the PCM, the vehicle owner would probably never have been told the truth. He would have paid for a PCM he didn't need.
That is the way this field is and it is a shame. Props to this garage for wanting to double check before making a call on a bad PCM. It is always difficult when you get bad new parts.
I remember on the earlier model 3.3 and 3.8's bad crank sensor would throw a cam sensor code,also remember the early saturn's with the 1.9's would throw a cam sensor code and they didn't have a cam sensor
How can i squeez in a 40 minute scanner danner video when i have to open the shop in 35 minutes????😣😣😣😣😣 Hi Paul..will have to watch in 2 segments. Will leave 2 thumbs up 😀
Javier 86...ahhh, open the shop 5 minutes late!! How many people could be waiting at the door, when you finally get there?? Just imagine, if they really wanted you to open on time, how grateful they will be when you finally get there, to open it, 5 minutes later! VOILA!! no charge.
I have a choice when I get home from a long day at work , watch tv or watch scannerDanner?? lol , freaking Paul always wins !!!! Let me know when you make it official, Paul for President !!!! I am finally able to afford it so I am taking the Next Big Step, I am Joining the premium channel right Now!!!!One Day I will Be able to afford the book lol (sorry have a 2 year old that is very expensive so my budget is no budget lol)!! lol wish me luck!!!!
Thanks so much! You are making a wise investment in your future my friend. Something your little one will thank you for someday. I don't have all the answers but I can definitely give you a good foundation to build your house on. I look forward to seeing you in the comments of the videos. Good providence to you! I don't believe in luck :-)
I am always looking to do more with less. I finally bought a scope last years since I thought I absolutely needed one. It have been very handy but a lot of these auto tasks can be diagnosed with a test light. Your situation here can be dx with a test light. Pull the sensor, leave connected, 12v test light to the cam sensor signal wire and move your piece of metal past the sensor. light will from on to off. Thanks!
you have to be careful on the type of test light you are using, and with the circuit design as you can pull the signal voltage down to zero through the light and not light the light
i learned a hard lesson on an intrepid with cam sensor issue . had a miss had cam sensor code. checked power(5v) ground and did ohm meter test from sensor to computer connector. changed sensor ran fine for 2 weeks. then miss came back progressing to a stall. figured pin fitment as they weren't the snuggest. change pigtail. ran good a couple of day then same ole crap. started wiggling harness and in one particular spot it would stall. in their infinite wisdom they put a in harness splice on the 5v tapping the wire to another sensor.(wire welded with no other mechanical means of connection) the torque of the engine would break the supply voltages but i could never get it to act up when i had a meter on it.
nice find though! And now you know with "pull-down" type circuits, you don't need to measure from the sensor to the computer for continuity right? Just a simple unplug it voltage measurement.
thanks! i recently put in a NEW (but bad) CKP sensor and its apparently shorted internally- screwing up my fuel level gauge, ignition coil/ignitor(?) and setting off a host of other selonoids- et al! I cleaned all grounds, rebuilt my fuse box, new ECU, cleaned everything........no changes UNTIL i just now decided to swap back in the old CKP sensor. All the electrical clicking, etc went away immediately and Im not going thru the KEY RELEARN process for the new ECU
just wanted to know is there a tiny raised niblet on the trigger wheel to bump the air gap gauge off the end of the sensor.? and that gauge is soluble to oil. ? I guess thats why on the first crank it took tiny bit longer to fire (time to dis-gaurd that air gap gauge. 👍😜🇦🇺
Hey Paul love the videos keep up the great work. was wondering if you’ve ever thought about doing a quick vid on some of your favorite diagnostic tools that you use. T pins def became my best friend since I saw you recommend them but what else do you like
Am only watching your videos ❤️❤️ in TH-cam a lot in these days, because your giving what you earned from past years which is more more Worth full..sure am gonna be SD premium subscriber soon. Right now am jobless because of Corona crisis here. Anyway let's see me in your premium subscriber list.
If your unemployed then you should be doing better then most of us working so that excuse is bs. The wife was on it all summer she made 400 a week at her 8to5 job. Whe got on unemployment and they gave her 1100 a week for 10 weeks then it just changed to 900 a week and can collect fmupnto 75k and as long as you need it. She makes more sitting home then working and this is what the government wants. So dnt use this pandemic bs to say you dnt have money. Lol not hating just truck a nerve when I saw this. Sorry
Paul: interesting deja vu situation. DiagnoisDan just posted a video with an ABS light on referral from another shop. Ended up as being 2-in-a-row bad out of the box, same brand, wheel speed sensors. Hope the BWD [Broke When Delivered] CMP sensor lasts longer than the first 2 [ha-ha!].
Very good tutorial.... My 1996 Dodge V10 won't start. All I did was change the spark plugs! Crankshaft sensor signal stays "high".... guess what.... sensor is on order after verifying wiring, voltage, and ground. One can use an analog multi-meter (one with a pointer) or an inexpensive Oscilloscope to troubleshoot those circuits, too, because they show the trend of the voltage(s) readily. There are super-cheap USB O'scope "front ends" available on the internet. And, do learn as much as one can regarding Direct Current (DC) and even a little Alternating Current (AC) theory to understand circuits external to the PCM (It ain't rocket science! You Tube is the pentultimate resource for this). Factory manual... absolutely necessary. Found mine in PDF format on line for free!. It beats the Haynes manual, hands down and is superbly written, but unlike the Haynes, doesn't have "shortcuts" or "hints" for work-arounds. That's where one's grey matter and, once again, YOU TUBE, come into play.
This is so cool! This all sounded so intimidating to me at the beginning of the video. I mean, a brand new part was put in and still didn't work... I can totally understand why someone (like me) would then suspect the computer was the culprit. A professional garage had this car and they were ready to call the computer. But you used your amazing teaching of simple circuit design to figure out the computer was functioning just fine, the wiring was fine, so the brand new part had to be the culprit. Man, I just love your book! I just finished a couple of days ago reading it all the way through for the third time. I'm actually starting to get this stuff. What seemed so complicated is beginning to seem kind of simple. That's a sign of a good teacher! I was eating lunch in a restaurant after church today and telling someone about your book. Thanks for making what seems so complicated actually understandable!
Excellent video. Very well researched and completed. Too many garages/mechanics want people to pay for endless parts without carrying out proper checks and tests. This video doesn't only show your skill and understanding but also your integrity and honesty. Well done sir.
Thank you!
Just wanted to say a quick thank you to all of you that support what I am doing. As a lot of you know, ad revenue alone does not pay enough to justify the time involved to produce these types of videos. With filming and editing, there is probably over 15 hours in what you just watched. This is why other creators ask for Patreon donations! I've been asked why I don't offer this, and the reason I don't is because of my Premium channel and book. Instead of supporting me with a donation here, you can support me and get something back in return! In my opinion, what I offer is better than just a donation. If you are dedicated and really want to learn this stuff, my Premium channel and videos can change your life! So consider signing up for my 14 day free trial and at least check it out. Thanks so much for helping me make this possible. www.scannerdanner.com/join-scannerdanner-premium/subscribe-to/3-scannerdanner-premium.html
The best instructor in my opinion thanks Paul
As soon as I finish the book I'll be signing up.
I’m a member and a SD Premium and supporter. It’s worth every cent and I just feel that I owe him for all his time and effort and also his teaching when I 1st got started in the real life of diagnostics. Now I’m a bad ass just like him. His book is a great learning tool and most of all a great reference book just in case you forget how certain things work.
The SD Premium channel is absolutely wonderful any many ways.
Paul, you def get more than just "a little back". Before the days of youtube, in the late 80's early 90's, I always wanted to make a VCR tape of how to diagnose computer controlled cars...but didnt have knowledge or experience (thank God when OBD2 came along and digital recording). When I came across your vids I was like YEA! And when you confirmed importance of the voltage test over the ohms test, again Yea! Your not only a great tech but even better at verbalizing what you are doing....but a God fearing great family man w/a lovely family. Thx for your troubles. We the viewers def appreciate you
@@wenseslao521 Thank you so much
It is nice to hear someone say the words "I am not familiar" it keeps you human and honest. Ty
Nice 6years as a tech and still learning thanks man...
1) I cannot believe that I have been so into this that it's already past midnight.
2) Don't take this as an insult, but now (as a bush mechanic without the scan tools) I don't feel quit so silly trying to find a crank but no start issue on my own vehicle. I see that even a pro such as yourself can begin to start scratching his head as to what may be going on.
I certainly appreciate the video's and pro-tips that you post on TH-cam!
Thanks
My friend, your channel has just become a treasure to me. After 4 years trying to diagnose a P0335 code in my Vauxhall Astra which starts & drives perfectly and doing everything but buy a new car to stop it, I am now really getting to learn what 'other' problems might be tricking the computer into believing it's one thing but is in fact emanating from another. As I am analytically minded and interested in engineering etc but not qualified as a mechanic or tech, these are brilliant instructional videos bud, really top draw stuff. The faulty cam sensor video triggering the CKP error was a light bulb moment for me, and one I am now going to start testing for. You know your beans that's for sure.
Welcome and thank you!
I sole ‘proprietored’ an electronics repair shop for many years ..and replaced many he sensors ..this is a great forensic breakdown of the application and use/design of these simple electro-mechanical active devices ..great job Dan ..
TY SD. I've watched many of your vids amd it has helped me a lot! Ty
I'm blown away. You sir are a real badass. Thankyou so much. I've got a Mercedes with cam correlation code, yet the visual inspection shows timing is not off
172,000 subscribers. TH-cam is still living u. Great vid. Like the good old days.
Great video danner we appreciate every single moment of your time trying to teach us new things .. thanks
Paul I have seen quite a few videos of replacement electronic equipment being faulty. In fact, diagnose Dan just recently posted a video of two defective wheel speed sensors being defective. Makes it tough for the diyer because some electrical components are not returnable and we would question our troubleshooting So glad I have your book and class. Get the book guys will save you a lot of grief. ❤️️
Before I started watching your videos (and others) I never had a way to "see" electrical signals. Having a scope and the ability to see electricity had made understanding systems so much easier. The fix gave me goosebumps too. :)
haha for sure! And to those without a scope, it does help to see it so you know what you are looking for on your DMM and what the weaknesses are.
I'm with he needs to be paid in gold bricks he is a computer running and he understands everything about it great teacher as well thank u for this video u just taught me so much going to be paying u some money u deserve every penny!!
It never gets old watching you, hope and pray you and your faimly are OK and God bless you all
Thanks Paul!
Yes, I have also had quite a few questionable new parts. Seems like a lot of them are made by the same manufacturer, just put in another brand's box . Paul this is were your training is so valuable, by knowing how the basics in the system work you can fight your thru to a successful repair. Don't be a parts changer! It's great that you are bringing content to you tube it shows people how important your paid in depth training really is.
I have seen your videos ( You Tube and paid) many times, and each time I pick up something new. NEVER stop learning ! Thanks Paul
Thanks Steven! Do you think I included too much of the classroom lecture (SD Premium stuff) on this one? Maybe I should have kept it to 3 minutes instead of 6? I felt like it was a good time to show the lecture and how much it totally applied to this situation. It is always tough to call a bad new part and knowing circuit design was the key.
Sign up for Paul's premium channel, you will not regret it! Paul you have absolutely made me a better technician and have a great style of teaching.
Love your detail in your content. I would enjoy your book I bet. I was an instructor for 12 years in the motorcycle industry and we often used your videos in class to get a deeper understanding in the "scan" world as it is finally being encompassed in the 2-wheeled world. I work for an OE now in training. Hope to connect sometime. Once again I get all the work and time you put into this as I have over 600 videos myself on my channel, so from one creator to another...thank you "Keep Wrenching" Shane Conley-How2Wrench
Thanks Shane! I'm going to go check out your channel now.
Thanks Paul, great video. I am a member of your premium channel and have your book. I just want to say this really messed my mind up because in all your lectures you always show the transistor being a part of the PCM and with the cam sensor it is internal to it. I just wanted to point this out because your students may have the same problem understanding the pull up and pull down design when the transistor is moved.
Keep watching my friend. I have a ton of lectures showing the difference with "electronic switch inputs". This video had a clip in it from on of many lectures on this topic. Also spend some time in chapter 21 in my hall effect lectures too. Thanks again!
Ahhh, now for the curve ball, some coil on plug ignitions have the transistor in the coil itself (usually 3 wire coils) and some have the transistor in the coil AND an additional 4th wire as a "check" wire to see if the coil has fired properly.
This was fantastic! Been fighting this on my 2015 Rubicon for weeks.
I'm an Electrical Engineer for an aerospace company, and while the schematics I had were somewhat helpful, your description of the sensor role in-circuit helped out.
I was about to relinquish control of the troubleshooting to the dealership, but after watching this, I'm eager to jump back in. After I changed the shocks out, I think something I think I just disturbed something in one of the wiring harnesses. Likely just shorting to an adjacent line. Will post results when I get shop time. Thank you!
Looking forward to it!
So?
@@TheRoadLessChosen Code was wrong.....suggested to replace the bank 1 Camshaft Pos sensor and it ended up being the bank 2 camshaft position sensor.... or vice versa. Reading the resistance between the pins on the sensor showed different resistances. Replaced the camshaft position sensor on the opposite side that it suggested and it fixed it. Never came back....
AHHHHHHH! you would not believe how many months or mechanics ive gone through before I was finally able to get an honest mechanic to tell me to check that part!!! in 6 months time before it actually gave out it never threw that code 340!!! nor did the check engine light come on! it was just starting whenever it felt like it and eventually took its toll on the battery as well. i replaced the sensor and the battery. car started right up but a longer start time for sure and the check engine light goes on??? still on 4 months later! code never cleared! wont pass smog because nothing reset! then my dear? i found you! and this!!! and i had a feeling all along it was a bad part because of the longer start time and then same code during smog check!!! and because im a woman i can get away with telling you that the scream at the start of my comment was me having an incredible BIG O!!! lmao! your my hero! but i still hate my concord! only 80k miles on this 2000 but have had to replace bcm, fuel rail, both fans and motors!!! then this issue!!! so one more issue and im taking it to the desert outskirts to shoot it and leave it with all the other ponies shot and left out to the elements! hahaha
It's getting harder to get new parts you can trust. Although with Chrysler CMP and O2 sensors, OEM is your best bet.(if you can afford them) Thanks for the excellent vid.
anti chuckle list oem for that sensor Chrysler is $97. Autozone $57 for who knows what quality. Online oem $63 if you can wait. Might get a discount if you talk the dealer into it. Overall, what’s your time worth. I want it done the first time and I want it to last so I shoot for oem or very high quality aftermarket. Autozone or Napa garbage can stay on their shelf.
Awesome video Paul, thats why I am a paid subscriber. Like the way you detailed function wise. how the CPU is interpreting the return signal via the voltage drop across internal CPU resistor, when Transistor opens and shorts to ground. Well done.
Much appreciated! Thank you so much for supporting what I'm doing, even when I drop a good video on the free channel 😉
Try sticking an allan key in a cordless drill and spinning it in front of your sensor, for crank sensors you can get the rev counter to work
nice idea
This guy needs to be paid in gold bricks.
Paul you actually sounded like you knew what you were talking about this time. lol Seriously though a newbie coming along could pick up a lot of info in this video. Good stuff!
Excellent! When you think about it, (and now I can smugly write this since I watched your class on pull-down signals) its not that hard understanding such a basic concept like pullup/pulldown. You almost feel as if everyone should know this by now (as I said, Im only being clever since I watched your vids, I had no idea that a pull down signal existed before and I sure as hell would have agreed it needed a pcm reflash) but look at what that could have lead to. They were ready to call on a PCM!!! What if this was a 4000$ pcm? And they got it wrong? My goodness, just like you said, its so unbelievably necessary to know the absolute basics.
Those "basics" literally saved that guy from a new pcm and additional headaches.
All you did was unplug the sensor and understand what that meant. Haha it sounds almost impossible in its simplicity!!
Amazing job, Im so glad Im signed up to premium.
Amen to all of it and thank you for being a premium member!
I've been learning a lot by watching you and south main auto I give you two the credit for teaching me how to check crank and cam sensors in my wife's jeep bad brand new cam sensor
Eric is the man @SouthMainAutoChannel Thank you!
@@ScannerDanner you both are
NO NO NONSENSE DIAGNOSIS AND REPAIR .
THANKS FOR SHARING THE KNOWLEDGE
It's a must to do full scan I've gotten a few tips from a code in the TCM not registered in the MiL.
I'm still on the previous update no auto codes and fast code scan. Looks awesome.
thank you getting back to me i figured it out with your help i did a voltage tested on the new cam sensor to find out the sensor was bad i brought a new one and I'm up and running again thank you for your video
Bad new parts is absolutely plaguing our industry right now. More than I have ever seen in 30 years
Great demonstration! Absolutely love watching your videos
Concerning bad parts (specially electrical) when I purchase a replacement part I ALWAYS perform a test to see if it is working as it's supposed to before installing it!.Safe me both some valuable time and unessesary frustration!
Top shelf stuff again Mr Danner.
Stay gold.
I work in an auto parts shop. Recently we identified an issue with 3 different aftermarket suppliers of ignition coil to suit Toyota 3SGE motor where none of them would work in the Altezza yet as far as we know they work fine in every other Toyota that uses that motor. Only genuine would work. The PCM must be extra fussy about feedback signal or current draw in that model.
Your video is really fun to watch. I’m fixing my own car. I thought if you know how to turn bolts and nuts it can be fixing the repair I need to do in my car, but I’m picking up something on this video training demonstration. Thanks and God bless you.
This guys got skills! I’m learning so much from your channel. Keep it up 👍
Thanks for the sub!
Man, that was cool to watch. I’m just a DIY car guy and new at it, but I’m trying to learn. I recently changed my cam sensor in my 02 Jeep WJ and all I could find locally was Dorman. I put it in and code and stalling went away. Guess I got lucky? I didn’t set any air gap or anything 😬? Again, guess I got lucky. Thanks for the video
Thanks for the video, I had a p0340 code, bought the cheapest sensors I could find thinking if it fixed the problem I'd buy the expensive AC Delcos, but didn't know for sure that was my problem. Truck ran a little worse, it wasn't until I saw your video where you mentioned getting new parts that were already bad, had that lightbulb 💡 moment, went out, cleaned and scrubbed all the built up gook off the old sensor and boom, no more code. Guess my next step is to buy OEM sensors. Never thought that my NEW sensor would be bad well cause gee, it's New. LOL - thanks for giving me something to think about and ultimately fixing my problem.
Thanks for clear explanation regarding malfunction of sensor circuit.
I had the same problem with the crank sensor on a 2014 altima 2.5 L. I put in a new $80.00 sensor and still no spark. I thought it was the ECM. Had it towed in. Nissan told me the aftermarket hall effect sensors don't work. Only genuine Nissan sensors work. I learned the hard way.
Wish I had seen this a few months ago... My subscription to this channel and the premium channel.... Earned! 👍
Oh, and I bought the paper book, too...
Thank you so much! Look forward to watching your progression!
As always great case study! 👍
A new Danner video. It's going to be a long 10 o'clock break. Better make some more coffee.
Even in the Chrysler shop manual it is often confusing if the connector diagram is looking at the end of the connector or the backside (or into sensor), plus not always easy to tell which side is the locking tab. Seems they could spell it out better, or perhaps it is in a little footnote somewhere. Looks like this might be the Chrysler 3.8L like in our 2002 minivan. I know that some Jeeps got that (longitudinal version), instead of the 4.0L straight-six. A fine engine, but many Jeep fans berated it. I recall in my minivan the supply voltage is 8 VDC, shared with the crank sensor. The cam sensor looks identical. The 0.6 V you see is about the forward drop of a diode. A transistor is somewhat like two diodes in series, so if one "diode" is failed shorted, you might see a 0.6 V drop when it should be off, but I'll let an EE comment. I do know that transistors most commonly fail shorted.
Thumbs up sir.your are a great technician,mechanic,teacher,,,thanks so much for those lots of videos,,im a big fan sir!
Golden information once again I would hang this disposable plate on my Mens cave and store it inside a Picture Frame, it's like having the Moses collection on DVDs 📀
Always interesting and informative. You are the best. Thank you for sharing, professor.
Hoo-Rah!
Another amazing video from one of the greatest automotive teachers out there! Keep up the great work!
Yes, Paul is a gifted teacher and an asset to all of us who diagnose vehicles.
thank you so much Nick
@@parochial2356 thank you so much
very interesting trying to follow your logic an direction in how you fault find an fix the issue your faced with ...as i said very interesting watching your problem solving skills cheers
Great video. I guess by looking at the data it made a difference on the cam sync and cam difference. Maybe just by looking at . you can see possible sensor failure.
yeah, sometimes it helps to look at data, in this case knowing this was a hard fault with the sensor, it really wasn't necessary but I always like to try to show all the available testing methods
Great information. Now if I can remember it all. At least I can reference back to this video, thanks so much
Thank you sir, i wish i was told this when I was in tech school. It would of made my job as an instructor easier. 👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
A parts changer, hands down will change the ecm with same results. A honest mechanic with a solid diagnostics skills will call back the supplier and tell them how poorly those parts are made. It happen to me time to time with the local aftermarket stores.
Nice call Mr. Danner. Super "Cheap" after market parts. Not saving anyone a penny! Only good for calling into question the Mechanics competency. Just had a wheel speed sensor within a Hub fail on me after 10,000 Kms (6000 Miles) what a joke. Warranty ? whats the point? they only hand you the same part that will fail again day after tomorrow! Still subscribing to your "Premium Channel". Don't comment much these days but I am still there! Worth every Nickel.
Thanks so much for helping me make both this channel and my premium channel possible! I am grateful for you guys so much.
Each and every video I learn something ,am still budget soon I will buy the ebook 😍😍😍😍 I can't wait
Thanks for letting us know more about auto electric and electronics
Fantastic Videos and with precised information, Thanks me gaining Hands on Experience
Great video as always!
I enjoyed your last couple as well FRM!
Paul, I used to work for Federated Auto Parts, and we, along with a lot of other parts stores had a policy that you couldn't return sensors and modules if they had been installed. Have you ever had a problem getting a part replaced after it was bad right out of the box? There is an epidemic of crappy sensors out there these days. At least for my own vehicle, I grab whatever OE sensors I can grab every time I go to the salvage yard, just so I have an OE part to replace them with if they ever go bad. I started doing that after having to put 5 different TPS' on my Durango in 1 year.
When I worked in the field full time, I didn't have too much trouble. Also for 5 of those years I worked for Pep Boys so the company itself was providing the parts, so again, not a problem. I know it is a struggle though for sure.
This is incredibly helpful. Thanks so much, Dan. You do man!
Thank you! My name is Paul Danner 😉
Best cam/crank sensor video I have seen
Thank you!
Thanks you so much, you have inspired me a lot, perhaps I will make a video here on TH-cam to send special thanks to you guys
Old Timer Mechanic: Great Video!
You saved the customer from a pcm 👍💪 great work n thanks for teaching.
Sadly, you might be right. If someone had changed the PCM, the vehicle owner would probably never have been told the truth. He would have paid for a PCM he didn't need.
That is the way this field is and it is a shame. Props to this garage for wanting to double check before making a call on a bad PCM. It is always difficult when you get bad new parts.
@@fascistpedant758 Even worse, it wouldnt have fixed the issue.
@@ScannerDanner Did that piece of solder fall out of the sensor itself? It was is just loose crap from soldering the wires together that fell in?
@@vertigoalopolus it was from the repair of the harness and it was definitely not a good thing!
I was reviewed this video, is exelente amigo scanner Danner. Dios te bendiga.
I remember on the earlier model 3.3 and 3.8's bad crank sensor would throw a cam sensor code,also remember the early saturn's with the 1.9's would throw a cam sensor code and they didn't have a cam sensor
Perfect as usual my professional teacher
How can i squeez in a 40 minute scanner danner video when i have to open the shop in 35 minutes????😣😣😣😣😣
Hi Paul..will have to watch in 2 segments. Will leave 2 thumbs up 😀
play it back at 1.5 times the speed :-) (I do this all the time when I add time stamps haha)
ScannerDanner 😂😂😂😂😂
Omg only if i could speed up my energy level 1.5 times...just turned 51 a few weeks ago...😩😩😩😩
@@theadventuresofjavier8698 lol
Javier 86...ahhh, open the shop 5 minutes late!! How many people could be waiting at the door, when you finally get there??
Just imagine, if they really wanted you to open on time, how grateful they will be when you finally get there, to open it, 5 minutes later!
VOILA!! no charge.
roadkill5333 actually people show up 10 to 15 minutes early..i show up 2 hours early so i can miss traffic...true story
Wow this is the perfect mechanic teacher, great job thanks 👍
This guys the best because of the complete explanation thanks man
Thank you!
Awesome- great video. Thanks. Like the info about the pull down circuitry !
Another excellent training video
Thanks for showing the schematic at 11:00
Thank you, You just helped me troubleshoot and solve a crank no start problem!
Sweet! Thanks for the comment
I have a choice when I get home from a long day at work , watch tv or watch scannerDanner?? lol , freaking Paul always wins !!!! Let me know when you make it official, Paul for President !!!! I am finally able to afford it so I am taking the Next Big Step, I am Joining the premium channel right Now!!!!One Day I will Be able to afford the book lol (sorry have a 2 year old that is very expensive so my budget is no budget lol)!! lol wish me luck!!!!
Thanks so much! You are making a wise investment in your future my friend. Something your little one will thank you for someday. I don't have all the answers but I can definitely give you a good foundation to build your house on. I look forward to seeing you in the comments of the videos. Good providence to you! I don't believe in luck :-)
So well explained and informed thanks very much and very helpful
Man your great and lots of help thanks from libya
👍🏻 brilliant, great to watch , keep up the good work
Superb video Paul ....Many Thanks 👍🏻
Thanks!
Thank you! Much appreciated and I'm glad this helped you!
Soo nice from you the explication is clear and fun
I am always looking to do more with less. I finally bought a scope last years since I thought I absolutely needed one. It have been very handy but a lot of these auto tasks can be diagnosed with a test light.
Your situation here can be dx with a test light. Pull the sensor, leave connected, 12v test light to the cam sensor signal wire and move your piece of metal past the sensor. light will from on to off. Thanks!
you have to be careful on the type of test light you are using, and with the circuit design as you can pull the signal voltage down to zero through the light and not light the light
Amazing content. Wish I had that computer you are using....lol is the " pulley" the tone ring?
i learned a hard lesson on an intrepid with cam sensor issue . had a miss had cam sensor code. checked power(5v) ground and did ohm meter test from sensor to computer connector. changed sensor ran fine for 2 weeks. then miss came back progressing to a stall. figured pin fitment as they weren't the snuggest. change pigtail. ran good a couple of day then same ole crap. started wiggling harness and in one particular spot it would stall. in their infinite wisdom they put a in harness splice on the 5v tapping the wire to another sensor.(wire welded with no other mechanical means of connection) the torque of the engine would break the supply voltages but i could never get it to act up when i had a meter on it.
nice find though! And now you know with "pull-down" type circuits, you don't need to measure from the sensor to the computer for continuity right? Just a simple unplug it voltage measurement.
@@ScannerDanner yep but its always good to have plan b sometimes its too easy to confuse yourself lol
Great Information. Awesome Job!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge n experience.
Previous shop shouldve known it wasnt a bad computer as all cars go to Keiths in Staton Island for their computers to die, duh! Lol. Good vid,
This is a great video. Good information
thanks! i recently put in a NEW (but bad) CKP sensor and its apparently shorted internally- screwing up my fuel level gauge, ignition coil/ignitor(?) and setting off a host of other selonoids- et al! I cleaned all grounds, rebuilt my fuse box, new ECU, cleaned everything........no changes UNTIL i just now decided to swap back in the old CKP sensor. All the electrical clicking, etc went away immediately and Im not going thru the KEY RELEARN process for the new ECU
Shorted the 5v reference circuit out is what it sounds like. That is rather unfortunate 😕
just wanted to know is there a tiny raised niblet on the trigger wheel to bump the air gap gauge off the end of the sensor.? and that gauge is soluble to oil. ?
I guess thats why on the first crank it took tiny bit longer to fire
(time to dis-gaurd that air gap gauge. 👍😜🇦🇺
great videos and information . Thanks for sharing
Hey Paul love the videos keep up the great work. was wondering if you’ve ever thought about doing a quick vid on some of your favorite diagnostic tools that you use. T pins def became my best friend since I saw you recommend them but what else do you like
Perfect as always..Thank you so much..
You are awesome! !!
Thank you !!
Am only watching your videos ❤️❤️ in TH-cam a lot in these days, because your giving what you earned from past years which is more more Worth full..sure am gonna be SD premium subscriber soon.
Right now am jobless because of Corona crisis here. Anyway let's see me in your premium subscriber list.
If your unemployed then you should be doing better then most of us working so that excuse is bs. The wife was on it all summer she made 400 a week at her 8to5 job. Whe got on unemployment and they gave her 1100 a week for 10 weeks then it just changed to 900 a week and can collect fmupnto 75k and as long as you need it. She makes more sitting home then working and this is what the government wants. So dnt use this pandemic bs to say you dnt have money. Lol not hating just truck a nerve when I saw this. Sorry
Paul: interesting deja vu situation. DiagnoisDan just posted a video with an ABS light on referral from another shop. Ended up as being 2-in-a-row bad out of the box, same brand, wheel speed sensors. Hope the BWD [Broke When Delivered] CMP sensor lasts longer than the first 2 [ha-ha!].
it ALWAYS sucks to get bad new parts, it makes you question everything and even doubt yourself sometimes
Another Great class thanks for share Paul 👍👌🔧🔧
Very good tutorial.... My 1996 Dodge V10 won't start. All I did was change the spark plugs! Crankshaft sensor signal stays "high".... guess what.... sensor is on order after verifying wiring, voltage, and ground. One can use an analog multi-meter (one with a pointer) or an inexpensive Oscilloscope to troubleshoot those circuits, too, because they show the trend of the voltage(s) readily. There are super-cheap USB O'scope "front ends" available on the internet. And, do learn as much as one can regarding Direct Current (DC) and even a little Alternating Current (AC) theory to understand circuits external to the PCM (It ain't rocket science! You Tube is the pentultimate resource for this). Factory manual... absolutely necessary. Found mine in PDF format on line for free!. It beats the Haynes manual, hands down and is superbly written, but unlike the Haynes, doesn't have "shortcuts" or "hints" for work-arounds. That's where one's grey matter and, once again, YOU TUBE, come into play.