Thanks for these videos and the good information. I am a technician but I am not working as a service tech right now. The videos help me not to forget what I have learned. Thanks again🙏
and for your information: please do not forget to discharge the capacitor before disconnecting the wires otherwise you will risk loosing your fingers. I CAN'T BELIEVE THAT THIS GUY FORGOT THE MOST IMPORTANT SAFETY STEP!!
Safety Third: discharge your capacitor with an insulated screwdriver! Otherwise a perfectly done video. How did you arrive at the 10% figure? All the capacitors I've used provide their error range in the specs.
Scott Biggs Hi Scott, you have a good point. However, if it is a start capacitor and is not a bad idea for a run capacitor. But run capacitors are hooked up across the winding of the motor and when power is removed the capacitor discharges through the winding. Start capacitors are taken out the circuit with the power applied and have a small discharge capacitor across the terminals.(You probably already know this) But, you are right safety first and it never hurts to be too careful.
Very clear closeup shots, and good lighting and audio. You wisely suggest people note the actual position of the fan and compressor wires while still connected to the capacitor terminals (not everyone can read a schematic easily or accurately). As "sundayhusband" points out, the best approach for some people is to take photos while the connectors are in their original positions. Even a smartphone camera permits good closeup shots, since the camera's display screen shows the photo about to be taken.
#1: It’s better to check the capacitor while in operation when it’s under real working load conditions. Take Amp draw from the wire going to your HERM spade connection on your capacitor. Multiply by 2652. Now take the voltage across the capacitor, HERM and C. Divide your number by the voltage reading. This will give you a perfectly accurate uF reading without even having to de-energize the unit or pull the capacitor. Also #2: Just because you de-energize the unit does not mean that you are safe from getting shocked by a capacitor. If you don’t believe me just touch it, you’ll only do it once. You should discharge the capacitor properly.
Time and Time again I see people wasting time when working on air conditioners... if you really understand how they work and are made there is no need to use a meter because you can tell its bad simply by looking at it.. capacitors have two conductors with an insulation/dielectric separator keeping the conductors separate..they are used for various reasons in electric circuits but in the case of condensers one is used to start the compressor...which is the higher MFD on a start/ run capacitor...the lower MFD is used to run the condenser fan motor and always is on at all times...the compressor just uses the capacitor to start the compressor and then it gets disconnected once the compressor is running...a second phase is needed to start a single phase ac induction motor.. you have 4 windings at 90 degree to each other...2 positive and 2 negative...another set of windings also at 90 to each other overlap the first set of windings.. obviously a winding is wires rolled in a coil...the edge of the 1set of windings is in the center of the second set...the motor can not start with only one set of windings..the capacitor is wired to the 2nd set of windings...which gives the motor the ability to start...easiest way to describe it is without the capacitor...there is not enough torque from 1 winding to spin the motor to the spot where force is given to the rotor a second time after the initial force...that is why u can spin the fan blade manually and it will start running ... compressors have capacitors connected to the start windings... capacitors in condensers will bulge when it shorts because of the pressure that the heat creates...99.9% of times just looking at it u can see it's bulged and bad..
@@bigblue3568 Your an idiot my friend that has no business whatsoever touching hvac equipment. I am the guy that must follow behind you to fix your mistakes...I guess your too stupid to understand the very basics of hvac...like whenever the temperature increases of something inside of a closed container the pressure also increases...do u even know what is inside of electrolytic capacitors and how they function and why they are used...my guess is NO!!!!!...do you know what happens when a capacitor shorts or for that anything shorts??? I suggest that you do some research before you kill yourself...you can start here dumbass... www.raleighheatingandairservice.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/Capacitors.jpg...its truly amazing how stupid people can be when you can get answers so easily and quickly...dumbass
After discharging the capacitor, clean all of that debris/oil from the top of the capacitor before measuring. Use a replacement tolerance of +/- 5%, not 10%. Incidentally, your VOM puts a small calibrated charge of its own back into the capacitor. This can be ignored when replacing the leads.
Absolutely. The nominal capacitance is listed on the capacitor. The industry standard for motor design and in the applications of air conditioning is capacitor tolerance is +/- 6% and never +/- 10%. Ditto on reversing the DVM leads when measuring the capacitance.
This is the 1st tech that did not tell viewers to discharge cap before testing. Perhaps his hvac tester does not require discharge 1st, but I've been told my little fluke would smoke if I tried to test without discgarge. Not to mention, the dangerous shock one would get if they touched poles prior to discharge. Some people use a resistor, I just used a screw driver with insulated handle. Safety 3rd people!
2:48 - I do not know of an exception to this observation: The fan terminal on a dual capacitor will have 2 spades (on rare instances 1 spade). The Herm terminal will have 3 spades. The common (C) will have 4 spades. I have not seen any dual capacitor (no matter the age) with more than 3 spades or less than 3 spades on the Herm terminal.
Sir, I think you forgot to tell your viewers to discharge the capacitor before doing anything with the capacitor. Just a reminder. Is is an Indian Training company? Thanks
Great video good clear instructions. I watched this hoping to learn if/why it's necessary to disconnect the wires to test the capacitor if there is no power to the capacitor. Any input? Also, I ALWAYS short across the capacitor terminals with a screwdriver with an insulated handle. A capacitor can (rarely but possible) store very high voltage.
I have a dual capacitor. I want to get a second for emergency 45 +5 370v. my existing Fan as 2 connectors, Common has 4 connectors and Herm has 3 connectors to hook my wires to. If the one i want to purchase is marked S, C, and fan, does it matter if S, C, and Fan all have 4 connectors to wire to (instead of 4, 3, 2 connectors)? I thought the manufacturer may have included 4 connectors for each for convenience sake when connecting wires. Is that true?
..lol Would you be pulling the disconnect while the unit is running under full load? First, make sure that your thermostat is not calling for cooling or having the thermostat in OFF state. You also forgot to discharge the capacitor before placing the tip of your needle nose. Not sure if you ever have been hit with the stored charge from a capacitor but you are skipping some very crucial steps in safety.
hi, thanks for the video, very helpful. quick quesiton. capacitor need + and - to charge, in this case, common from capacitor and (start wire from compressor and FAN) both are in the same leg.. the common of compressor and fan is going to other leg of 240.. but for capacitor to charge we need both leg right. so how is capacitor charging.. to make it simple if i have capacitor which is NOT dual KEEP it single.. i wire start wire of herm in capacitor to start wire of compressor, common in the capacitor i will connect to T1, i will connect RUN of compressotr to T1 and common to T2. being said that capacitor doesnt have both the leg to charge.. can u please explain.. no one have done this befofre..
@ronwalker please help someone was working on my AC it was spinning clockwise before he changed the capacitor after it was changed the fan was spinning in a counterclockwise is it possible to do that by putting the wires on the wrong slots on the capacitor
Not the microfarad rating..... replacement should be an exact match. However, the voltage rating of the new unit needs to be the same ( or higher). You can replace a 370V with a 370....or even a 370/440V rated unit. You cannot replace a 440V unit with a 370V. You CAN replace a 440V unit with a 370/440V unit.
You always discharge a capacitor as there will always be some stored charge in it. Never assume there is no charge on any cap. If not sure grab your meter and check for any residual voltage.
hi, could a bad capacitor/shorted capacitor cause a unit to stop running every 8 hrs. then restart on its own 8 hrs. later? No one can find the answer, but a friend said he had something similar and it was the capacitor. During the time when it cuts off, the thermostat and fans....motors etc. won't work, then....on its own, it comes on 8 hrs. later and runs all night long and blows nice cool air.....with no frosting or any other symptoms.....could it be a capacitor short?
Kathy Hayes Hi Kathy, not likely. Does the system have a float switch? Like this - www.paulstravelpictures.com/Gibson-HVAC-Air-Handler-Condensate-Drain-Pipe-Flushing-Guide/Gibson-HVAC-Air-Handler-Condensate-Drain-Pipe-Cleaning-Guide-008.JPG If the condensation drain is nearly clogged it will back up trip the float switch (turning off the system). Then slowly drain which resets the switch and turns it on. Let me know how it turns out.
. wiring for fan motor to capacitor the old motor had black to c purple to herm n brown to fan blue was cap off need straight to contactor my new one has brown brown white white black yellowand purple are cap off its dual csp
. wiring for fan motor to capacitor the old motor had black to c purple to herm n brown to fan blue was cap off need straight to contactor my new one has brown brown white white black yellowand purple are cap off its dual csp
Glen Webber There is a capacitor that has a 5 year warranty, made in America by a company called AmRad in FL... I don't know if they're any better though.
AND what does "c" stand for.... it does NOT hook up to common on the compressor... it hooks up to the Run side of the compressor.. try hooking it up to the common side of the compressor and see what it does lol....
I changed the motor and the wire colours are different. There are no standards except for black. I've watched 10 videos on this subject and NO ONE FOLLOWS WHERE THE WIRES ARE COMING FROM. Why can't some one be different and more explanatory. That would be too intelligent right?
Thanks for these videos and the good information. I am a technician but I am not working as a service tech right now. The videos help me not to forget what I have learned. Thanks again🙏
and for your information: please do not forget to discharge the capacitor before disconnecting the wires otherwise you will risk loosing your fingers. I CAN'T BELIEVE THAT THIS GUY FORGOT THE MOST IMPORTANT SAFETY STEP!!
156° on the roof in Phoenix thank you for such a good tutorial
I take a photo of the terminals for added visual assurance when disconnecting wires.
sundayhusband I do too.
i couldnt even see the letters on it but figured it out with a photo
Safety Third: discharge your capacitor with an insulated screwdriver! Otherwise a perfectly done video. How did you arrive at the 10% figure? All the capacitors I've used provide their error range in the specs.
Scott Biggs Hi Scott, you have a good point. However, if it is a start capacitor and is not a bad idea for a run capacitor. But run capacitors are hooked up across the winding of the motor and when power is removed the capacitor discharges through the winding. Start capacitors are taken out the circuit with the power applied and have a small discharge capacitor across the terminals.(You probably already know this) But, you are right safety first and it never hurts to be too careful.
Very clear closeup shots, and good lighting and audio. You wisely suggest people note the actual position of the fan and compressor wires while still connected to the capacitor terminals (not everyone can read a schematic easily or accurately). As "sundayhusband" points out, the best approach for some people is to take photos while the connectors are in their original positions. Even a smartphone camera permits good closeup shots, since the camera's display screen shows the photo about to be taken.
Lol
I wish if you also mentioned the colors of the wires which wire goes to where thanks great job
thanks for making a good clear video.... pretty much the only good one on youtube
#1: It’s better to check the capacitor while in operation when it’s under real working load conditions. Take Amp draw from the wire going to your HERM spade connection on your capacitor. Multiply by 2652. Now take the voltage across the capacitor, HERM and C. Divide your number by the voltage reading. This will give you a perfectly accurate uF reading without even having to de-energize the unit or pull the capacitor.
Also #2: Just because you de-energize the unit does not mean that you are safe from getting shocked by a capacitor. If you don’t believe me just touch it, you’ll only do it once. You should discharge the capacitor properly.
the best explaination i have seen so far thanks a million
Gracias Dimas, hablo poco Espanol.
The work is brilliant I will like to learn more from u as well
you forgot to show how to discharge the capacitor with an insulated screw driver
Time and Time again I see people wasting time when working on air conditioners... if you really understand how they work and are made there is no need to use a meter because you can tell its bad simply by looking at it.. capacitors have two conductors with an insulation/dielectric separator keeping the conductors separate..they are used for various reasons in electric circuits but in the case of condensers one is used to start the compressor...which is the higher MFD on a start/ run capacitor...the lower MFD is used to run the condenser fan motor and always is on at all times...the compressor just uses the capacitor to start the compressor and then it gets disconnected once the compressor is running...a second phase is needed to start a single phase ac induction motor.. you have 4 windings at 90 degree to each other...2 positive and 2 negative...another set of windings also at 90 to each other overlap the first set of windings.. obviously a winding is wires rolled in a coil...the edge of the 1set of windings is in the center of the second set...the motor can not start with only one set of windings..the capacitor is wired to the 2nd set of windings...which gives the motor the ability to start...easiest way to describe it is without the capacitor...there is not enough torque from 1 winding to spin the motor to the spot where force is given to the rotor a second time after the initial force...that is why u can spin the fan blade manually and it will start running ... compressors have capacitors connected to the start windings... capacitors in condensers will bulge when it shorts because of the pressure that the heat creates...99.9% of times just looking at it u can see it's bulged and bad..
METO U do you even HVAC bro? 99.9% of the time the capacitor will be bulged? LOL
@@metou3072 literally one of the dumbest comments posted on HVAC ".99.9% of times just looking at it u can see it's bulged and bad.."
@@bigblue3568 Your an idiot my friend that has no business whatsoever touching hvac equipment. I am the guy that must follow behind you to fix your mistakes...I guess your too stupid to understand the very basics of hvac...like whenever the temperature increases of something inside of a closed container the pressure also increases...do u even know what is inside of electrolytic capacitors and how they function and why they are used...my guess is NO!!!!!...do you know what happens when a capacitor shorts or for that anything shorts??? I suggest that you do some research before you kill yourself...you can start here dumbass... www.raleighheatingandairservice.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/Capacitors.jpg...its truly amazing how stupid people can be when you can get answers so easily and quickly...dumbass
@@metou3072 again your comment wins the award. You should go "google" multimeter and farads. You must be one of those home warranty HVAC "techs" LOL
Thanks!!!! Saved me $100's.
Thanks for making it short and sweet.
B KANNE No problem and you are welcome
Excellent teacher and accident video
Very dangerous! Discharge fist thing after power is confirmed off?
Just what I was looking for thank you 👍👍
After discharging the capacitor, clean all of that debris/oil from the top of the capacitor before measuring. Use a replacement tolerance of +/- 5%, not 10%. Incidentally, your VOM puts a small calibrated charge of its own back into the capacitor. This can be ignored when replacing the leads.
Absolutely. The nominal capacitance is listed on the capacitor. The industry standard for motor design and in the applications of air conditioning is capacitor tolerance is +/- 6% and never +/- 10%. Ditto on reversing the DVM leads when measuring the capacitance.
Thanks for posting. I was always taught to discharge the capacitor before handling it by shorting out the terminals. Capacitors store electricity.
This is the 1st tech that did not tell viewers to discharge cap before testing. Perhaps his hvac tester does not require discharge 1st, but I've been told my little fluke would smoke if I tried to test without discgarge. Not to mention, the dangerous shock one would get if they touched poles prior to discharge. Some people use a resistor, I just used a screw driver with insulated handle. Safety 3rd people!
2:48 - I do not know of an exception to this observation: The fan terminal on a dual capacitor will have 2 spades (on rare instances 1 spade). The Herm terminal will have 3 spades. The common (C) will have 4 spades. I have not seen any dual capacitor (no matter the age) with more than 3 spades or less than 3 spades on the Herm terminal.
Sir, I think you forgot to tell your viewers to discharge the capacitor before doing anything with the capacitor. Just a reminder. Is is an Indian Training company? Thanks
Thank you so much
Its been an awnser to a question that i never got to..
Thank you
Always take a picture before disconnecting the wires
Great video, Do you have any videos on Steam Boilers and how they work and also how the Automatic feeder is connected to a steam boiler.
Great video. Thanks. Checked out just as you indicated. Very helpful.
TQ very much... My aircond working
outstanding video, very informative.
1:38 . What are the leads of your multimeter touching ? Both just touching the base of the unit?We need answers man !! Cool vid
No mention of discharging the capacitor. 🤔
I have a purple wire dangling on the opposite end of the capacitor. Where does it connect to?
Great video good clear instructions. I watched this hoping to learn if/why it's necessary to disconnect the wires to test the capacitor if there is no power to the capacitor. Any input? Also, I ALWAYS short across the capacitor terminals with a screwdriver with an insulated handle. A capacitor can (rarely but possible) store very high voltage.
If you don't disconnect the capacitor the windings of the motor will throw off your capacitance measurement.
Darren Hiebert
Well demonstrated 👍
Thanks for the video =)
I have a dual capacitor. I want to get a second for emergency 45 +5 370v. my existing Fan as 2 connectors, Common has 4 connectors and Herm has 3 connectors to hook my wires to.
If the one i want to purchase is marked S, C, and fan, does it matter if S, C, and Fan all have 4 connectors to wire to (instead of 4, 3, 2 connectors)?
I thought the manufacturer may have included 4 connectors for each for convenience sake when connecting wires. Is that true?
..lol
Would you be pulling the disconnect while the unit is running under full load?
First, make sure that your thermostat is not calling for cooling or having the thermostat in OFF state.
You also forgot to discharge the capacitor before placing the tip of your needle nose. Not sure if you ever have been hit with the stored charge from a capacitor but you are skipping some very crucial steps in safety.
Discharge the cap and check DC after cutting the ac
Hi Bazlu, thanks for you input. Discharge your capacitors! No this in not an Indian training company.
Thank u Ron
Good work.
GFM
Third safety - discharge capacitor
would you read proper mu if there was a short between common and fan or herm?
You forgot to show that you must DISCHARGE the capacitor after the power is off!!! DANGEROUS!!!
Dude, you did NOT discharge the capacitor????.....that could KILL you.
no comments
tiberio135 I was just gonna say that when I saw the video.
And yet he lives, despite your crazed panic.
Thanks
Great job !
Most watchers are home owners trying to fix their own a/c units!
Great video. Thanks for sharing, very clear and easy to follow. It was extremely useful.
hi, thanks for the video, very helpful. quick quesiton. capacitor need + and - to charge, in this case, common from capacitor and
(start wire from compressor and FAN) both are in the same leg.. the common of compressor and fan is going to other leg of 240.. but for capacitor to charge we need both leg right. so how is capacitor charging.. to make it simple if i have capacitor which is NOT dual KEEP it single.. i wire start wire of herm in capacitor to start wire of compressor, common in the capacitor i will connect to T1, i will connect RUN of compressotr to T1 and common to T2. being said that capacitor doesnt have both the leg to charge.. can u please explain.. no one have done this befofre..
great video..
Good job...?? my contactor it's making a noise..
How to discharge, ground the terminals out?
What will happen if you by mistake connect the wires to wrong terminal
I was told that is good to discharge the capacitor before removing from the unit. What do u think? Thanks in advance.
I'm in college now for hvac and our teacher says this to.
excelente la información muy útil
@ronwalker please help someone was working on my AC it was spinning clockwise before he changed the capacitor after it was changed the fan was spinning in a counterclockwise is it possible to do that by putting the wires on the wrong slots on the capacitor
before the capacitor goes totally bad, how often should i change it?
If it's made in China; you could replace it after 2 years. Keep the old one as a spare/backup. The AmRad Turbo200 has a 5 year warranty.
faster, if you check for continuity between any pin and chassi of the cap and it has, its no good.
What????
can it be replaced with higher value capacitor?
Not the microfarad rating..... replacement should be an exact match. However, the voltage rating of the new unit needs to be the same ( or higher). You can replace a 370V with a 370....or even a 370/440V rated unit. You cannot replace a 440V unit with a 370V. You CAN replace a 440V unit with a 370/440V unit.
5.5 would be bad on the common and fan. Now what would be bad on common and herm?
Depends on your capacitor and what plus or minus percentage is stated on the capacitor.
do you discharge the dual capacitor before measuring the capacitance?...
pei bossman It is not a bad idea to do so. If the motor doesn't have an open widning, the cap will discharge itself through the winding.
You always discharge a capacitor as there will always be some stored charge in it. Never assume there is no charge on any cap. If not sure grab your meter and check for any residual voltage.
hi, could a bad capacitor/shorted capacitor cause a unit to stop running every 8 hrs. then restart on its own 8 hrs. later? No one can find the answer, but a friend said he had something similar and it was the capacitor. During the time when it cuts off, the thermostat and fans....motors etc. won't work, then....on its own, it comes on 8 hrs. later and runs all night long and blows nice cool air.....with no frosting or any other symptoms.....could it be a capacitor short?
Kathy Hayes Hi Kathy, not likely. Does the system have a float switch? Like this - www.paulstravelpictures.com/Gibson-HVAC-Air-Handler-Condensate-Drain-Pipe-Flushing-Guide/Gibson-HVAC-Air-Handler-Condensate-Drain-Pipe-Cleaning-Guide-008.JPG
If the condensation drain is nearly clogged it will back up trip the float switch (turning off the system). Then slowly drain which resets the switch and turns it on.
Let me know how it turns out.
Ron Walker Hi Kathy, The drain and float switch are on the unit in the attic. It drains the water (condensation) from the evaporator.
Are these type videos in your HVAC course?
Don’t a lot of capacitors discharge when the power is turned off?
Only if they have a bleeder resistor!
if the dual capacitor is 40+5 and you test Common and Herm it should read 40 MFD but what number would it be if it was bad like anything under 25?
Joe Smith Usually it reads open. +-10% (in this exampl +-4 MFD, it should be replaced.
Make sense?
Wiring two together Hvac capacitor
.
wiring for fan motor to capacitor the old motor had black to c purple to herm n brown to fan blue was cap off need straight to contactor my new one has brown brown white white black yellowand purple are cap off its dual csp
.
wiring for fan motor to capacitor the old motor had black to c purple to herm n brown to fan blue was cap off need straight to contactor my new one has brown brown white white black yellowand purple are cap off its dual csp
Hi Rod, is there a Dual capacitor brand that's better?
I own 12-year-old 3.5 ton carrier air-conditioner.
Glen Webber There is a capacitor that has a 5 year warranty, made in America by a company called AmRad in FL... I don't know if they're any better though.
my wires has 2 brown 1 yellow 1 red... can u help me connect.....
My capacitor has all rusted and cant even see the letters. The wire colors are Red, Yellow, Purple and Orange. Please help me.
Same. Did u find a fix?
nice
ok tanks
I also check line to line AND each leg to ground. But what the hell do I know?
if i have 35/5 440 vac and im getting a reading of 33.something (common and herm) is my cap bad or good?
good, you have a plus or minus % number on the label. the 35 rating is for the compressor which is always higher. the 5 rating is for the fan.
+r4ym1n13 i think if its good should read 35
+hamid desertmen 33 is close enough. there is a +/- of 5 %
I know in theory the cap should be drained but I'll also point out that a lot of unloaded guns manage to kill people every year.
wires could still be live if previous servicer bypassed disconnect
AND what does "c" stand for.... it does NOT hook up to common on the compressor... it hooks up to the Run side of the compressor.. try hooking it up to the common side of the compressor and see what it does lol....
I changed the motor and the wire colours are different. There are no standards except for black. I've watched 10 videos on this subject and NO ONE FOLLOWS WHERE THE WIRES ARE COMING FROM. Why can't some one be different and more explanatory. That would be too intelligent right?
I always test my caps under load for the most accurate reading.
Ah, the expression made famous by Nancy Pelosi. "Good morning...Sunday morning."
@@LeFraudHasChokedInSIXFinals It wasn't her that said that. It was the alcohol 🍷
Fuckkk.. but you forgot how to discharge the capacitor.. it can kill you
carlos quinteros do you read any replies before adding your comment?
Fart at 3:18, very important don't forget to fart.
It’s made in China, no wonder why isn’t working 😂😂😂
Hindi language sir
Sanjay Bhar: Good luck on that, haha.
thank you