ConflictedSwitch A Finnish finish is more likely to be beeswax or linseed oil, because shellac beetles need a much warmer climate than they have in Finland.
It’s been my pleasure, brother! I’ve told you on multiple occasions that I’m only doing it so that one day you’ll invite me on your super-yacht when you’re killing it on the DIY network
this is an old video but my story fits here best. So I went to carpentry school and finished last summer. Around the middle of the third year some first graders accidentally left those rags in something that could catch on fire. We where doing out doing those monthly work visits and it was out last. So when we came back our teacher said we had a fire. Now the fire was in the glue area, anyone who works with glue knows you have metal clamps. Every single small clamp melted. It melted the glass windows and destroyed our metal everything on the wall. and it destroyed our floor. So when someone says be careful, take it to heart because it will be lethal.
Two things that might be worth adding to the conversation; Shellac is really great to work with once you learn to get over its shortcomings, mostly that it dries very quickly, however, it doesn't leave a great finish for things like trim and doors where you really need a long-lasting finish that is cleanable, no matter how long it dries, it will still always dissolve in alcohol, which is a problem for anything that needs to be cleaned or sees heavy use. these days I like combining shellac as a first coat with polyurethane as a top coat. You get the speed of the shellac you also get the durability of the polyurethane and shellac is very compatible with basically any finish. I haven't best much with BLO or wax type finishes, but I hope to get into that a bit more. Most of my experience as a contractor is trim, doors, cabinets, etc. And that kind of finish just isn't really durable enough. Lacquer is great if you got the place to spray it, but most hobbyists certainly don't.
I have spent an inordinate amount of time researching finishes and I always seem to end up more confused than when I started. But I now feel like I have a much better understanding. This video was tremendously helpful! You have a gift for teaching Rex, thank you!
I have recently discovered that BLO should be applied with glove for those who are concerned with heavy metal poisoning. It contains heavy metal driers and solvents. I have switched to raw linseed oil as of late, its a little more expensive but is better for your health.
A note to anyone taking Isaiah's advice in switching to raw linseed oil--your dry times will also be longer! You're going to have to give it longer than Rex does in this video to dry up.
Good video. A couple of minor points, though: It’s not exactly right to say oil finishes have “no drying time.” I get your point, which is that you can handle the piece much sooner after applying the oil than you could with, say, most varnishes. But what oil does over time is form a polymer (a sort of plastic) on the wood fibers that protects them. This isn’t really drying; it’s curing, but it does take time (days) for the full process. The reason linseed oil is applied in “boiled” form (these days, generally achieved not by cooking but by adding chemicals) is that it speeds up the curing time significantly. It’s also inaccurate that linseed oil “literally hydrates” wood. Hydration refers to water content, and water is what wood loses when it becomes dry, twisted, checked, etc. Oil is, of course, not water. It can replace water in the wood fibers, but this replacement usually doesn’t penetrate the wood very deeply (which the original moisture did).
Great vid', Rex! I do have a couple minor pointers regarding Linseed Oil, though... Nothing too serious, but for the record, there are some benefits in more than "a single heavy coat and wiping off the excess in ten minutes"... It's a bit more intensive, but you can greatly increase the benefits of linseed by fully submerging a tool handle in the stuff (use PVC, not a bucket... btw) for about three days... or until the bubbles stop, whatever takes longer. Here's the thing... In most common applications, from cabinets to piano frames, just coating the wood is generally "good enough" for the job. Certain things like high impact or intensively abused tool handles or threaded wood-works that take a moderate to high amount of "action", you want maximum penetration of the oil for it to work. What linseed does is rather like the resin and hardener in Bond-o. It soaks into the microscopic spaces between wood fibers and traps them in liquid filler that then "Polymerizes" to thicken and harden up into something like a mediocre hard rubber. It's the exothermic reaction that heats rags up (worries of spontaneous combustion) AND it's why linseed oil causes a rag to dry "stiff" like a brick, even though it's still the same cloth (technically) that you started with... That rubberized filler INSIDE the wood-grains is what give the wood it's maximum payoff for even bothering. SO most of the time, you are correct in use and purpose, even on things like that saw handle, it's not so important to soak in... Certain aspects, however, like hammers, chisel handles, and mallets or the like where there's either a LOT of friction or a LOT of impact, the wood will become distinctly more durable years down the road after the submersion and soaking... It's also worth note, somewhere... That over time (yeah, it takes years to notice) Linseed oil WILL darken. Any wood that was coated or soaked in it will eventually turn almost black. It's actually a very VERY dark ruddy brown color, but you'll usually need a spotlight from hell in broad daylight to tell. (lolz) I was kind of wondering what your thoughts might be on Laquer... whether sprayed on or brushed on, and I know you work 90% with the products mentioned, but you might consider checking out a couple modestly priced (even secondhand) lacquer products and see what you think... ;o)
Thats excelent idea! If I understand it correctly - by submerging it, the oil has significantly more time to penetrate the wood before the polymerization occurs. Is that right?
@@vecernik87 Yeah, you've got it... There are a few channels on YT (can't recall them all just now) that talk at length about "Threading" wooden dowels like we normally do stock-round steel for bolts and screws... They recommend submersion in mineral oil until the bubbles stop as their first step... AND they suggested 3 days as a "basic start time" for rules of thumb, in case you don't have a water-tight tubing that you can view into easily... AT any rate, yes... You have the idea. By submerging it completely and leaving it the 3 days or so, the oil can just about completely saturate the wood... Then your polymerization process eventually sets throughout the wood... rendering something akin to modern fiberglass with ancient technology... ;o)
@@stopabusingstatistics6291 As I understand it, eventually. Even without the extra coating, this darkening takes a long time, as in decades to quite reach "near blackness", and it's a pretty good way to tell "real" antique tool handles... and the inexperience of someone who just jams a decent wood handle into a tool and then paints it black. They've obviously never seen the real deal or they'd know paint isn't anything like what linseed does as it ages. Theoretically, some of the darkening is probably due to oxidation... AND if that's the case, you can make it take even longer to darken with a coat of clear poly or even the shellac like in the vid'... I've never worried about it personally... There is a certain attractiveness to the nature of those nearly blackened old handles and projects, too. You can still see the grain, just like with stain, and without the cost of "real ebony", you've got something almost as dark. ;o)
Shellac is a great finish. I made a basement stair rail out of construction lumber and put multiple coats of shellac on it. After paste wax it’s the prettiest 2x3 you’ve ever seen.
My go to finish for anything that stays indoors is a good quality Danish oil. I've heard some Americans complain that Danish oil isn't hard wearing, but I think either they've used a poor quality oil, or maybe the Danish oil you get in the US is a different formula to what we get here in UK (Rustin's here is by far the best). I damp the surface with a moist cloth, allow it to dry to raise the grain. Sand with 120 grit, then apply first oil coat with a fine sponge. 4-6 hours to dry, sand with 120 again, then second slightly heavier coat. 8 - 10 hours or overnight to dry. Sand with 240 grit, wipe over carefully with a tack cloth (important) before applying a third coat. Next day usually all I need to do is scrub over the surface with a screwed up brown paper bag which knocks off any fine dust particles that might have settled on the surface. The result is a smooth satin finish that is surprisingly hard wearing.
Another pretty quick and VERY durable finish I have used is either paste wax on it's own or a first pass of urethane that gets wiped down so it's just a bit of a sealer and then wax over that. In both cases I put the wax on heavy and then hit it with a heat gun or hair dryer to liquify the wax and the wood just soaks it up. Anywhere that looks "dry" I had some more wax. Once it doesn't really want to soak any more up I wipe it down. You end up with a soft luster surface that is waterproof, no water rings etc.
Excellent video and advice! What stood out for me were the wonderful finished pieces , and the commonsense advice around the coating-product layout and steps. From laying protective sheets down, thinking about possible dust in the surrounds and adjusting the piece as the painting was done. Four coats. Three finishing products discussed. Thank you.
Boiled linseed oil doesn’t dry; it oxidises. The rags you’ve left out overnight (spread flat, obviously, to keep it cool as it reacts) become oilcloth.
If you dont want to paint. Mix equal parts linseed oil and pine tar. Heat up carefully or dilute with turpentine. Protects the wood but is sligthly "tacky" to the touch and of course is dark brown. Think viking ship.
Thank you for mentioning the exothermic property of linseed oil! I see so many people recommend it for other uses (e.g. minipainting) and they never mention it!
Can't argue with much of this. Also, not mentioned but worth discussing is brush technique, which is perfectly illustrated from 10:23 - the brush should be laid on away from the edge and come off the other side, then do the same in the opposite direction, to avoid squeezing out excess and causing runs on the edges. My only argument would be on brush choice. For applying shellac, I strongly recommend spending the money on a dedicated squirrel mop which can be drawn to a point and set aside after use. Any shellac which hardens the bristles is softened by the spirit in the shellac the next time you're applying finish. For larger surfaces, make a rubber from cotton cloth and wadding, and store it in an airtight container between uses.
Another great finish - French polish - combines shellac and boiled linseed oil, about 50/50. Wipe on with a cloth pad, let dry and use 0000 steel wool; and then repeat until satisfied with depth of finish. For extra fine finish, after 0000 steel wool, rub with a pad dipped in a mixture of BLO and pumice. All this is easy, drip proof, rather quick and gives a great finish.
This is hilarious. The guy does a video about quick, easy, simple wood finishes, and you're like: "Great video! You know ANOTHER finish you can do is...." (proceeds to describe 2 different kinds of highly involved, complicated finishes full of complex steps and hard to find ingredients! Lol
Another easy, cheap, and often overlooked finish is paint. Paint seems to be fairly unpopular with amateur woodworkers, maybe because we like to show off the wood grain, but paint is as old and as commonly used as just about any other wood finish. It’s easy to apply, dries quickly (for most kinds of paint), looks good, and it can cover a lot of flaws in the wood and mistakes by the woodworker.
I like my water based matte poly for my projects. One heavy first coat, 220 light sanding, 2 more light coats and sand if needed. It doesnt smell, held up to abuse on our coffee table that is used everyday, you can use a foam brush, and personally i don't like the yellow/amber tint. I even shake the can to mix it, which people say don't do. With finishing i find its about paying attention to small details, but some people can be overly insane about it or be snobs. Sometimes, one quick rubbing session with wax is all that i need.
Greetings from No. VT - Rex, I totally agree with your choices of basic finishes and the types of uses for each. The boiled linseed oil in particular is really incredibly versatile. As you pointed out in the video you can also thin it down with alcohol (or turpentine or mineral spirits) if you need as little more penetration and less visibility. The one other option that is similar to linseed, but slightly more durable is to use in applications which get a lot of handling, is a Danish oil which can be pigmented a little better than linseed oil. I now use Danish oil on tool handles quite a bit (rather than linseed) and am not seeing as much discoloration with oils and grime from my hand over time. Another benefit I noticed is it cleans up from dirt and grime just a little better than what I saw with linseed oil. Just something to consider for particularly high touch (like tool handles) situations.
I too love using shellac. I very often use it as an undercoat on s/p/f as somewhat of a filler before applying the topcoat finish. I do use rattle can nitrocellulose when touching up older solid body guitars. Mostly it's shellac of various hues or violin varnish.
Greetings from No. VT - David, I agree that shellac is a super undercoat regardless of what your final finish ends up being. Its a natural product that bonds with virtually any wood to form a consistent and uniform base.
Hi Rex I know this video is two years old but I have a few thoughts. One thing I would recommend is good ventilation, especially with shellac ( ewww, bug doo), since it is cut with ETOH the fumes can be a little strong. Since I live in an area where there are some sawmills I usually buy green lumber and let it set for a few years ( i have stacks that are literally 12 to 15 years old!) Knots in air dried wood never really seem to "dry" so I always use shellac under an either urethane or painted finish or after awhile the knots will "bleed through" when I use urethane on a panel I also try to make sure it is horizontal. I don't have good tempature control in my shop so drying times will vary, I take some panels that i made, or either plywood or hardboard, and support them, usually with 2 X 4s so there are an inch or two above the project and cover the project completely. These act as a dust shields so if it takes a day or two to dry the debris isn't too bad Another viewer asked about lacquer . I have used before, dries quickly, best if sprayed but respirator and ventilation ae a must! One of my favorite finishes, especially hardwood but not pine, is a natural colored oil with a combination bees wax/carnuba wax on top I don't use much stain at all, but perhaps I could persuade you to make a video on how to finish pine without splotching thanks!!
I always use laquer. Its so easy to use and dries quick. Just sand the very first coat and its smooth. Then the more coats you put on the glassier it gets, each layer melts into the previous. Smell is really srtrong tho so do it out in the garage...i have never had luck with poly it never brushes as nicely and flat. Laquer is self settling and doesnt bubble as easily.
Shellac out of the can is about a 3 lb cut (3 lbs of shellac solids to 1 gallon of denatured alcohol). A great way to make it really easy to use is to mix it out of the can with equal parts denatured alcohol. Dries in about 15 minutes & ready for another coat. The reason oil based poly works better when thinned is because manufacturers are using less mineral spirits to meet the low Volatile Organic Compound statutes on tbe books. You're returning it to older formula adding thinner and it really improves the flow of the product.
In case you didn’t know you can thin the poly 50/50 and use it as a wipe on poly. It's a lot more forgiving than brushing it on but you also have to put more on to get the same results. Another option that I like is to start with full strength poly, sand it, then thin it progressively for the next coats. It lets you get the 1 raised grain coat out of the way and as you thin it you don't have to worry about runs as much
Thanks for the tip! I’ll make sure to take some thinned poly with me the next time I hit up the local taco shack. I’m always worried about the runs there.
I use melted beeswax. Put the work piece into the oven on warm for ten minutes before hand so the wax stays melted long enough to absorb. Once all the wood is coated put it back in the oven for 5 minutes, take it out and quickly wipe away all the excess beeswax before it solidifies other wise it hard to wipe off. Then when cool it can be buffed to a gemstone like shine. Paste wax every year or so as the wax is slowly fading will keep it looking nice
My brother, in high school, was finishing a wood project outside with linseed oil and got some on his clothes. Went to bedroom, changed clothes so we could go out somewhere, and left clothes on his bed. We came back later to find fire department had dragged his burning mattress into the yard. Lucky didn’t burn down house.
One of the best videos on finishing on the Tube. There is so much hype about whatever is the latest craze in yet another combination of something or other. No one seems to know what they are reviewing, just spew out a couple of good sounding marketing jingos and everyone wants to buy this snake oil they hope. I have spent over 200 bucks in the last couple of months trying out various finishes. I would probably add General Finishes Arm-R-Seal and one of the Hard Wax Oils for ease of application and durability. To me, shellac is somewhat finicky compared to Arm-R-Seal and I just like the feel afterwards. I have some Osmo Polyx coming next week so I will see how that does. However all of the oil based Poly's take forever to dry and have really high VOCs. Nice video, Thanks!!
Rex, thanks for the videos you do. I can't tell you how much I've learned just from watching your content. It's given me a well defined foundation to start practicing things I've never done and reaching outside my comfort zones. I cant even describe how much joinery scared me when I first started learning from your content.
1) I used a water-based poly on a kitchen table 30+ years ago. I was disappointed in the appearance (no amber hue, the wood had no 'life'). Now, the wood has darkened naturally and looks fine. After 30 years of all the abuse you can imagine for a kitchen table, the finish is still almost perfect. In other words, water-based poly is plenty durable. 2) Try turpentine instead of mineral spirits to thin oil-based poly. It works better, for me, in almost all applications. I got the tip from a luthier who is really experienced in fine finishes. 3) I never have polyurethane (no matter what thinner I use) dry as fast as you say. The first coat is two days minimum. Subsequent coats take less time, about a day. I use the same brands you show in the video. Maybe it's just me. Maybe my idea of 'dry' is different.
Yo, how come no respectable woodworking TH-camr has ever spoken about keyhole saws? Cause you're the first. I've never seen anyone use them, or recommend them, or even acknowledge their existence. I use them pretty often. Do they just suck and no one told me?
I think it's that back in the day, food was more valuable and more likely to get stolen, so many cabinets were make with locks to keep sticky fingers away from the grub. These days, we rarely put locks on cabinets.
Awesome video. I have focused most of my time on trying to actually make the thing, and not so much on how to finish it. Thanks for a nice simple breakdown on some great options. Will be giving it a go soon.
What might be considered a decorative bowl as a gift might later be used to store food. Mineral oil would be much better than boiled linseed oil, top with beeswax instead of past wax.
Only use shellac if you never ever plan on refinishing it. Ever. That stuff gums up sandpaper like you wouldn’t believe. I had to refinish a hardwood floor that had shellac on it. That was a nightmare.
By the way, shellac comes from an insect secretion, and some people are allergic to it. That’s even more so with true lacquer, which comes from a tree. I’m not saying anyone should be afraid to use those products; just be aware of it and be cautious the first time you apply either of them, in case you’re one of the unlucky people. They don’t seem to cause any problems once the finish is dried and cured.
I've watched a few of your videos now and I have to say, you do an excellent job. I have really enjoyed your work. Not only are you an exceptional woodworker, you also do an amazing job at video production. Well done mate!
second that on the wipe on poly, works well. Also for pine if you wet it and then sand the fuzzies , you will not have to worry as much on the fuzzies after the poly is applied.
Excellent video and process. Thank you for sharing. I have been experimenting with finishes and I agree with you. I am using BLO as my quick go to finish for tools, camp projects for the children, and restoring working tool handles. I am improving my French Polishing application. Highline Guitars, Brad Grove, and many of the guitar builder on TH-cam variations of the Poly+BLO+Mineral Spirits that I tried and adjusted to what works for me on guitar finishes. I just want to thank you for all your advise and suggestions. Your are a great inspiration. Keep up the excellent work.
Thanks for this! For pine, I've generally used beeswax and olive oil mix (20-25% beeswax to 75-80% oil), but it needs heating up, and a long while (days maybe) before it's properly dry and hard. Haven;t tried with linseed oil before, so that'll be a test for my next project!
The OLD GOAT is bookmarking this vid as #1 finish. The most confusing part of any project, especially for a NOOB is finish and this vid greatly simplifies the issue.
also easy is the danish (?) method of applying shellack for a very nice hard and shiny finish, dilute it and then apply very lightly multiple times with a buffing cloth
Hey Rex, new to the channel and loving it! Planning my first project as I watch this series! Question on this video: What is the purpose of the wax coat at the end of each finish? I feel you explained the 3 finishes very well, but I didn't understand if/why it needed the additional wax coat at the end? Thanks in advance!
Can't wait. Been mixing my own shellac from flakes and buttons for a few years. The button lac I use still has wax and is fantastic for a french polish while the flakes are dewaxed and great as either a base coat or final finish. And you can even get clear powder shellac if you want no color added. It's great on sanded 220 wood but sometimes you can get a shimmer when used on smoothing planed surfaces because of the way the fibers stand. And it's really easy to make whenever you need it, just give the flakes a couple of hours to disolve.
It's great stuff. My house came with a ton of cast offs for the original owner. In the basement workshop, one jewel I found was a half gallon jar half full of varnish granules. I've been using it for several years and still have not had to repurchase yet.
shellac is not as hard as polyurethane but I like it as a finish and it feels more tactile. I use tru-oil and I find it does a superior job for hardness... pretty nasty stuff though.
Why the steel wool for the wax? I haven't thought of that. And I'm a little gun-shy considering the "abrasiveness". And I'm glad for Paul and you. It's always nice to have a buddy in the wings, or be the buddy.
0000 steel wool is more like a polishing aid than an abrasive, & you're not putting any pressure down on the wood, so no need to worry too much about that. You could just as well use a rag or whatever you're comfortable with though, & steel wool might be best avoided if the piece will be around water, due to the potential for rust spots.
Would BLO with with an epoxy, say, for a live edge table? Also for those who don't thin out their polyurethane, do not play with it too long because you'll introduce streaks into the finish that you'll have to sand out. Thanks for delving into the topic. You did a nice job keeping a topic which has more options about it, fairly simple.
dust is the reason why old timey japanese craftsmen would sometimes finished their products on a boat, far away from any plants spreading pollen and other pollutants in the air. my father on the other hand just simply doesn't do anything dusty when he's finishing.
Could you do a dedicated one for how to finish Pine wood? ..what are the different options and how they look. There are 0 videos on this on TH-cam considering it is the go to wood for most beginners because of cost and availability.
BLO is great, and dries enough to not be tacky quickly. It doesn't care in that time, though, and won't really provide nearly as much protection before it's fully cured.
Rex, for years I've stuck with Watco Danish oil (clear). Simple, wood looks great and it's food safe. (Don't we all eat on the couch or chair we made sometimes?) Any thoughts on putting a film over it? I've never done it because the feel of the wood appeals to me, which will not be the same with a film. Thoughts? New subscriber, just found you today, but I appreciate the straightforward how-to approach.
Do you have any experience with Danish oil. I will try linseed oil, but I have great outcomes with Danish oil and either paste wax or water based polyurethane. GM
linseed oill beneath orange shellac is one of my favorites I find that I have to let the oil really harden for a few days before applying the shellac. I also find that I have to thin the shellac. It's too thick directly from the can. Orange shellac is much more difficult to apply nicely than clear shellac
Great video. Suggestions to consider for the future, perhaps? Making a using a strop. Choosing and using chisels (bevel and mortice). Keep up the work :-)
“I do all my finishing in the kitchen - when my wife is out at the store and I pack everything away before she gets back” Wife: Rex, what’s that smell in the kitchen and why are the windows open? Have you been doing woodwork in the kitchen again?! Rex: 🤫 No ?
I know I'm late to the show, but I'm curious about Tung Oil. I recently got interested in doing more woodworking, and did a little research and landed my sights on Tung Oil. So far, it's been a great decision. I don't even put paste wax on the finished woods and I really like the finish I'm getting. It's supposed to be safe and non-toxic. I really like the color the wood turns, and the durability seems very good, too. Rex, what do you know about it, and have you tried using it before? What were your experiences? Could you do a video about using Tung Oil or include it in another finishing video? Did you already?
Thank You Rex, awesome video. can you give me your opinion? I just made a work bench from 2x4". I planned it to 2.5". I have given it one good coat of boiled linseed oil. What do you recommend I do to finish it up? for a work bench should I leave it alone or oil it or paste wax it? Also, is there a way I can ensure it wont warp as it dries? That is a concern for me. THANKS!!!!!!
Shellac makes a great universal sealer as it will keep tannins from bleeding through paint and it sticks to everything and everything will stick to it. Also, when buying polyurethane buy high gloss. You can always tone down the shine with 0000 steel wool, but satin finishes contain flattening agents that obscure the view of the grain.
I love shellac!
Quick tip for steel wool: wrap a strong magnet in the steel wool before use. All the wool dust will stay put.
That one of the best tips ever! Cheers!
genius.
If I bought shellac from Finland, would that be considered Finnish finish?
I'll see myself out.
(Polite applause).
ConflictedSwitch
A Finnish finish is more likely to be beeswax or linseed oil, because shellac beetles need a much warmer climate than they have in Finland.
Hell yes! 'Cause that was FUNNY!
don't leave. try another one.
If someone from Finland empties the can, is it a case of Finnish finished Finnish finish?
So happy that you noted how careful you need to be with the rags from anything combustible! As for the rest, thanks for the tips!
It’s been my pleasure, brother! I’ve told you on multiple occasions that I’m only doing it so that one day you’ll invite me on your super-yacht when you’re killing it on the DIY network
Could we title this video “Paul Figures It Out”? 🤔
Actually, Paul needs to get on with his own channel. He has a good idea.
this is an old video but my story fits here best.
So I went to carpentry school and finished last summer. Around the middle of the third year some first graders accidentally left those rags in something that could catch on fire. We where doing out doing those monthly work visits and it was out last. So when we came back our teacher said we had a fire. Now the fire was in the glue area, anyone who works with glue knows you have metal clamps. Every single small clamp melted. It melted the glass windows and destroyed our metal everything on the wall. and it destroyed our floor. So when someone says be careful, take it to heart because it will be lethal.
Just love your no 'BS' approach. Gives you authority and reassurance. Both huge gifts to beginners.
Thanks.
Two things that might be worth adding to the conversation; Shellac is really great to work with once you learn to get over its shortcomings, mostly that it dries very quickly, however, it doesn't leave a great finish for things like trim and doors where you really need a long-lasting finish that is cleanable, no matter how long it dries, it will still always dissolve in alcohol, which is a problem for anything that needs to be cleaned or sees heavy use. these days I like combining shellac as a first coat with polyurethane as a top coat. You get the speed of the shellac you also get the durability of the polyurethane and shellac is very compatible with basically any finish. I haven't best much with BLO or wax type finishes, but I hope to get into that a bit more. Most of my experience as a contractor is trim, doors, cabinets, etc. And that kind of finish just isn't really durable enough. Lacquer is great if you got the place to spray it, but most hobbyists certainly don't.
but as part of your cleaning you can hit it with a rag of shellac and ass some more protection.
I have spent an inordinate amount of time researching finishes and I always seem to end up more confused than when I started. But I now feel like I have a much better understanding. This video was tremendously helpful! You have a gift for teaching Rex, thank you!
Totally my pleasure!
I have recently discovered that BLO should be applied with glove for those who are concerned with heavy metal poisoning. It contains heavy metal driers and solvents. I have switched to raw linseed oil as of late, its a little more expensive but is better for your health.
A note to anyone taking Isaiah's advice in switching to raw linseed oil--your dry times will also be longer! You're going to have to give it longer than Rex does in this video to dry up.
Good video. A couple of minor points, though:
It’s not exactly right to say oil finishes have “no drying time.” I get your point, which is that you can handle the piece much sooner after applying the oil than you could with, say, most varnishes. But what oil does over time is form a polymer (a sort of plastic) on the wood fibers that protects them. This isn’t really drying; it’s curing, but it does take time (days) for the full process. The reason linseed oil is applied in “boiled” form (these days, generally achieved not by cooking but by adding chemicals) is that it speeds up the curing time significantly.
It’s also inaccurate that linseed oil “literally hydrates” wood. Hydration refers to water content, and water is what wood loses when it becomes dry, twisted, checked, etc. Oil is, of course, not water. It can replace water in the wood fibers, but this replacement usually doesn’t penetrate the wood very deeply (which the original moisture did).
Great vid', Rex!
I do have a couple minor pointers regarding Linseed Oil, though... Nothing too serious, but for the record, there are some benefits in more than "a single heavy coat and wiping off the excess in ten minutes"...
It's a bit more intensive, but you can greatly increase the benefits of linseed by fully submerging a tool handle in the stuff (use PVC, not a bucket... btw) for about three days... or until the bubbles stop, whatever takes longer.
Here's the thing... In most common applications, from cabinets to piano frames, just coating the wood is generally "good enough" for the job. Certain things like high impact or intensively abused tool handles or threaded wood-works that take a moderate to high amount of "action", you want maximum penetration of the oil for it to work. What linseed does is rather like the resin and hardener in Bond-o. It soaks into the microscopic spaces between wood fibers and traps them in liquid filler that then "Polymerizes" to thicken and harden up into something like a mediocre hard rubber.
It's the exothermic reaction that heats rags up (worries of spontaneous combustion) AND it's why linseed oil causes a rag to dry "stiff" like a brick, even though it's still the same cloth (technically) that you started with... That rubberized filler INSIDE the wood-grains is what give the wood it's maximum payoff for even bothering. SO most of the time, you are correct in use and purpose, even on things like that saw handle, it's not so important to soak in...
Certain aspects, however, like hammers, chisel handles, and mallets or the like where there's either a LOT of friction or a LOT of impact, the wood will become distinctly more durable years down the road after the submersion and soaking...
It's also worth note, somewhere... That over time (yeah, it takes years to notice) Linseed oil WILL darken. Any wood that was coated or soaked in it will eventually turn almost black. It's actually a very VERY dark ruddy brown color, but you'll usually need a spotlight from hell in broad daylight to tell. (lolz)
I was kind of wondering what your thoughts might be on Laquer... whether sprayed on or brushed on, and I know you work 90% with the products mentioned, but you might consider checking out a couple modestly priced (even secondhand) lacquer products and see what you think... ;o)
Thats excelent idea! If I understand it correctly - by submerging it, the oil has significantly more time to penetrate the wood before the polymerization occurs. Is that right?
@@vecernik87 Yeah, you've got it...
There are a few channels on YT (can't recall them all just now) that talk at length about "Threading" wooden dowels like we normally do stock-round steel for bolts and screws... They recommend submersion in mineral oil until the bubbles stop as their first step... AND they suggested 3 days as a "basic start time" for rules of thumb, in case you don't have a water-tight tubing that you can view into easily...
AT any rate, yes... You have the idea. By submerging it completely and leaving it the 3 days or so, the oil can just about completely saturate the wood... Then your polymerization process eventually sets throughout the wood... rendering something akin to modern fiberglass with ancient technology... ;o)
If another finish, like shellac in the vid, is used over it, does it still darken as much over time?
@@stopabusingstatistics6291 As I understand it, eventually. Even without the extra coating, this darkening takes a long time, as in decades to quite reach "near blackness", and it's a pretty good way to tell "real" antique tool handles... and the inexperience of someone who just jams a decent wood handle into a tool and then paints it black. They've obviously never seen the real deal or they'd know paint isn't anything like what linseed does as it ages.
Theoretically, some of the darkening is probably due to oxidation... AND if that's the case, you can make it take even longer to darken with a coat of clear poly or even the shellac like in the vid'... I've never worried about it personally... There is a certain attractiveness to the nature of those nearly blackened old handles and projects, too. You can still see the grain, just like with stain, and without the cost of "real ebony", you've got something almost as dark. ;o)
@@gnarthdarkanen7464 Very interesting, thanks!
I like to thin my boiled linseed oil to a 50/50 mixture with turpentine. Takes longer to dry but I love the finish it gives.
What a fantastic basic finishing video! You made something that’s complex and intimidating seem easy and doable. Thank you for this! 👍🏼
Glad it worked for you!
what wax did he use?
but yeah im new to this, and i cant figure out why to not use those three.
Shellac is a great finish. I made a basement stair rail out of construction lumber and put multiple coats of shellac on it. After paste wax it’s the prettiest 2x3 you’ve ever seen.
My go to finish for anything that stays indoors is a good quality Danish oil. I've heard some Americans complain that Danish oil isn't hard wearing, but I think either they've used a poor quality oil, or maybe the Danish oil you get in the US is a different formula to what we get here in UK (Rustin's here is by far the best). I damp the surface with a moist cloth, allow it to dry to raise the grain. Sand with 120 grit, then apply first oil coat with a fine sponge. 4-6 hours to dry, sand with 120 again, then second slightly heavier coat. 8 - 10 hours or overnight to dry. Sand with 240 grit, wipe over carefully with a tack cloth (important) before applying a third coat. Next day usually all I need to do is scrub over the surface with a screwed up brown paper bag which knocks off any fine dust particles that might have settled on the surface. The result is a smooth satin finish that is surprisingly hard wearing.
Another pretty quick and VERY durable finish I have used is either paste wax on it's own or a first pass of urethane that gets wiped down so it's just a bit of a sealer and then wax over that. In both cases I put the wax on heavy and then hit it with a heat gun or hair dryer to liquify the wax and the wood just soaks it up. Anywhere that looks "dry" I had some more wax. Once it doesn't really want to soak any more up I wipe it down. You end up with a soft luster surface that is waterproof, no water rings etc.
Excellent video and advice! What stood out for me were the wonderful finished pieces , and the commonsense advice around the coating-product layout and steps. From laying protective sheets down, thinking about possible dust in the surrounds and adjusting the piece as the painting was done. Four coats. Three finishing products discussed. Thank you.
Boiled linseed oil doesn’t dry; it oxidises. The rags you’ve left out overnight (spread flat, obviously, to keep it cool as it reacts) become oilcloth.
Teak oil dries hard quickly and leaves a lovely finish.
@@alangknowles How does teak oil compare to tung oil? Have you used tung oil, too? You have made me very curious about teak oil.
Perfect tutorial. Very thorough, yet clear and straightforward.
I needed this, thanks. Buuuuuut i would love the same video but focused on exterior finishes! Please
Oh, that's easy; paint it. Video over!
@@RexKrueger boooooo.
Booooooooooooooo
If you dont want to paint. Mix equal parts linseed oil and pine tar. Heat up carefully or dilute with turpentine. Protects the wood but is sligthly "tacky" to the touch and of course is dark brown. Think viking ship.
@@borjesvensson8661 thanks for the tip
Thank you for mentioning the exothermic property of linseed oil! I see so many people recommend it for other uses (e.g. minipainting) and they never mention it!
Can't argue with much of this. Also, not mentioned but worth discussing is brush technique, which is perfectly illustrated from 10:23 - the brush should be laid on away from the edge and come off the other side, then do the same in the opposite direction, to avoid squeezing out excess and causing runs on the edges. My only argument would be on brush choice. For applying shellac, I strongly recommend spending the money on a dedicated squirrel mop which can be drawn to a point and set aside after use. Any shellac which hardens the bristles is softened by the spirit in the shellac the next time you're applying finish. For larger surfaces, make a rubber from cotton cloth and wadding, and store it in an airtight container between uses.
Another great finish - French polish - combines shellac and boiled linseed oil, about 50/50. Wipe on with a cloth pad, let dry and use 0000 steel wool; and then repeat until satisfied with depth of finish. For extra fine finish, after 0000 steel wool, rub with a pad dipped in a mixture of BLO and pumice. All this is easy, drip proof, rather quick and gives a great finish.
I've never once seen French polishing done this way but it sounds interesting.
This is hilarious. The guy does a video about quick, easy, simple wood finishes, and you're like:
"Great video! You know ANOTHER finish you can do is...." (proceeds to describe 2 different kinds of highly involved, complicated finishes full of complex steps and hard to find ingredients!
Lol
Another easy, cheap, and often overlooked finish is paint. Paint seems to be fairly unpopular with amateur woodworkers, maybe because we like to show off the wood grain, but paint is as old and as commonly used as just about any other wood finish. It’s easy to apply, dries quickly (for most kinds of paint), looks good, and it can cover a lot of flaws in the wood and mistakes by the woodworker.
I like my water based matte poly for my projects. One heavy first coat, 220 light sanding, 2 more light coats and sand if needed. It doesnt smell, held up to abuse on our coffee table that is used everyday, you can use a foam brush, and personally i don't like the yellow/amber tint. I even shake the can to mix it, which people say don't do. With finishing i find its about paying attention to small details, but some people can be overly insane about it or be snobs. Sometimes, one quick rubbing session with wax is all that i need.
Often, a quick rubbing session is just what I need.
Greetings from No. VT - Rex, I totally agree with your choices of basic finishes and the types of uses for each. The boiled linseed oil in particular is really incredibly versatile. As you pointed out in the video you can also thin it down with alcohol (or turpentine or mineral spirits) if you need as little more penetration and less visibility. The one other option that is similar to linseed, but slightly more durable is to use in applications which get a lot of handling, is a Danish oil which can be pigmented a little better than linseed oil. I now use Danish oil on tool handles quite a bit (rather than linseed) and am not seeing as much discoloration with oils and grime from my hand over time. Another benefit I noticed is it cleans up from dirt and grime just a little better than what I saw with linseed oil. Just something to consider for particularly high touch (like tool handles) situations.
Omg this video is the best video I've found about finishing. This will save me so much time! Thank you!
Totally my pleasure!
I too love using shellac. I very often use it as an undercoat on s/p/f as somewhat of a filler before applying the topcoat finish. I do use rattle can nitrocellulose when touching up older solid body guitars. Mostly it's shellac of various hues or violin varnish.
Greetings from No. VT - David, I agree that shellac is a super undercoat regardless of what your final finish ends up being. Its a natural product that bonds with virtually any wood to form a consistent and uniform base.
Hi Rex
I know this video is two years old but I have a few thoughts.
One thing I would recommend is good ventilation, especially with shellac ( ewww, bug doo), since it is cut with ETOH the fumes can be a little strong.
Since I live in an area where there are some sawmills I usually buy green lumber and let it set for a few years ( i have stacks that are literally 12 to 15 years old!) Knots in air dried wood never really seem to "dry" so I always use shellac under an either urethane or painted finish or after awhile the knots will "bleed through"
when I use urethane on a panel I also try to make sure it is horizontal. I don't have good tempature control in my shop so drying times will vary, I take some panels that i made, or either plywood or hardboard, and support them, usually with 2 X 4s so there are an inch or two above the project and cover the project completely. These act as a dust shields so if it takes a day or two to dry the debris isn't too bad
Another viewer asked about lacquer . I have used before, dries quickly, best if sprayed but respirator and ventilation ae a must!
One of my favorite finishes, especially hardwood but not pine, is a natural colored oil with a combination bees wax/carnuba wax on top
I don't use much stain at all, but perhaps I could persuade you to make a video on how to finish pine without splotching
thanks!!
I always use laquer. Its so easy to use and dries quick. Just sand the very first coat and its smooth. Then the more coats you put on the glassier it gets, each layer melts into the previous. Smell is really srtrong tho so do it out in the garage...i have never had luck with poly it never brushes as nicely and flat. Laquer is self settling and doesnt bubble as easily.
Shellac out of the can is about a 3 lb cut (3 lbs of shellac solids to 1 gallon of denatured alcohol). A great way to make it really easy to use is to mix it out of the can with equal parts denatured alcohol. Dries in about 15 minutes & ready for another coat. The reason oil based poly works better when thinned is because manufacturers are using less mineral spirits to meet the low Volatile Organic Compound statutes on tbe books. You're returning it to older formula adding thinner and it really improves the flow of the product.
Thank you for your videos. I used to think you were long winded. Now I appreciate, and value, your verbalized attention to detail.
Best video I've ever seen on how to fold a fitted sheet. Thanks!
In case you didn’t know you can thin the poly 50/50 and use it as a wipe on poly. It's a lot more forgiving than brushing it on but you also have to put more on to get the same results. Another option that I like is to start with full strength poly, sand it, then thin it progressively for the next coats. It lets you get the 1 raised grain coat out of the way and as you thin it you don't have to worry about runs as much
Thanks for the tip! I’ll make sure to take some thinned poly with me the next time I hit up the local taco shack. I’m always worried about the runs there.
I use melted beeswax. Put the work piece into the oven on warm for ten minutes before hand so the wax stays melted long enough to absorb. Once all the wood is coated put it back in the oven for 5 minutes, take it out and quickly wipe away all the excess beeswax before it solidifies other wise it hard to wipe off. Then when cool it can be buffed to a gemstone like shine. Paste wax every year or so as the wax is slowly fading will keep it looking nice
4:15
Learning new stuff everyday.
You saved my house. Thanks!
My brother, in high school, was finishing a wood project outside with linseed oil and got some on his clothes. Went to bedroom, changed clothes so we could go out somewhere, and left clothes on his bed. We came back later to find fire department had dragged his burning mattress into the yard. Lucky didn’t burn down house.
Good point: Your hand is a better judge than your eyes of whether something is sanded well or not.
An East German painter I worked for used shellac cut with 1/3rd denatured alcohol over oil based varnish stain for trim work.
One of the best videos on finishing on the Tube. There is so much hype about whatever is the latest craze in yet another combination of something or other. No one seems to know what they are reviewing, just spew out a couple of good sounding marketing jingos and everyone wants to buy this snake oil they hope. I have spent over 200 bucks in the last couple of months trying out various finishes. I would probably add General Finishes Arm-R-Seal and one of the Hard Wax Oils for ease of application and durability. To me, shellac is somewhat finicky compared to Arm-R-Seal and I just like the feel afterwards. I have some Osmo Polyx coming next week so I will see how that does. However all of the oil based Poly's take forever to dry and have really high VOCs. Nice video, Thanks!!
THANK YOU SO MUCH. I think this is the only wood finishing video I needed to watch.
"I'm kinda quick when I finish"
You may want to change the wording on that XD
Eh, I'm married.
@Factual Fox I think his reply could still apply. ;)
Rex, thanks for the videos you do. I can't tell you how much I've learned just from watching your content. It's given me a well defined foundation to start practicing things I've never done and reaching outside my comfort zones. I cant even describe how much joinery scared me when I first started learning from your content.
As a firefighter I appreciate the oily rag advise. We prefer to sleep at night, not muck up burned garages.
1) I used a water-based poly on a kitchen table 30+ years ago. I was disappointed in the appearance (no amber hue, the wood had no 'life'). Now, the wood has darkened naturally and looks fine. After 30 years of all the abuse you can imagine for a kitchen table, the finish is still almost perfect. In other words, water-based poly is plenty durable.
2) Try turpentine instead of mineral spirits to thin oil-based poly. It works better, for me, in almost all applications. I got the tip from a luthier who is really experienced in fine finishes.
3) I never have polyurethane (no matter what thinner I use) dry as fast as you say. The first coat is two days minimum. Subsequent coats take less time, about a day. I use the same brands you show in the video. Maybe it's just me. Maybe my idea of 'dry' is different.
I don't know if you have tried it however I've gotten great results with min wax antique wax. Oil based finish with a smooth luster.
If you have a local household hazardous waste facility, they may have finishing supplies available for free/cheap at a reuse center.
Yo, how come no respectable woodworking TH-camr has ever spoken about keyhole saws? Cause you're the first. I've never seen anyone use them, or recommend them, or even acknowledge their existence. I use them pretty often. Do they just suck and no one told me?
I think it's that back in the day, food was more valuable and more likely to get stolen, so many cabinets were make with locks to keep sticky fingers away from the grub. These days, we rarely put locks on cabinets.
Awesome video. I have focused most of my time on trying to actually make the thing, and not so much on how to finish it. Thanks for a nice simple breakdown on some great options. Will be giving it a go soon.
It's easy to get focused on the building and give little thought to the finish. I've done it.
Lest we forget food grade mineral oil for wood projects that will handle food (like a cutting board I'm working on)
I do use that a lot for turning.
@@RexKrueger a rolling pin perhaps?
What might be considered a decorative bowl as a gift might later be used to store food. Mineral oil would be much better than boiled linseed oil, top with beeswax instead of past wax.
Thank you Rex for the informative video. And thank you Paul, for helping Rex figure it out 😉
Only use shellac if you never ever plan on refinishing it. Ever. That stuff gums up sandpaper like you wouldn’t believe. I had to refinish a hardwood floor that had shellac on it. That was a nightmare.
By the way, shellac comes from an insect secretion, and some people are allergic to it. That’s even more so with true lacquer, which comes from a tree. I’m not saying anyone should be afraid to use those products; just be aware of it and be cautious the first time you apply either of them, in case you’re one of the unlucky people. They don’t seem to cause any problems once the finish is dried and cured.
I've watched a few of your videos now and I have to say, you do an excellent job. I have really enjoyed your work. Not only are you an exceptional woodworker, you also do an amazing job at video production. Well done mate!
I like wipe on polyurethane an also Tung oil too. My favorite finishing is all the Minwax products. Thanks for the knowledge Rex !!!!!!
second that on the wipe on poly, works well. Also for pine if you wet it and then sand the fuzzies , you will not have to worry as much on the fuzzies after the poly is applied.
Thanks for the tip Sir !!!!!!!
I've seen tests that say there are better brands than Minwax. I use Minwax and always get good results.
Great video and sound advice. I'd add that oil based poly will yellow over time and also add dewaxed shellac is better for seal coats under finishes.
Excellent video and process. Thank you for sharing. I have been experimenting with finishes and I agree with you. I am using BLO as my quick go to finish for tools, camp projects for the children, and restoring working tool handles. I am improving my French Polishing application. Highline Guitars, Brad Grove, and many of the guitar builder on TH-cam variations of the Poly+BLO+Mineral Spirits that I tried and adjusted to what works for me on guitar finishes. I just want to thank you for all your advise and suggestions. Your are a great inspiration. Keep up the excellent work.
You're very welcome!
Thanks for this! For pine, I've generally used beeswax and olive oil mix (20-25% beeswax to 75-80% oil), but it needs heating up, and a long while (days maybe) before it's properly dry and hard. Haven;t tried with linseed oil before, so that'll be a test for my next project!
Thanks Paul! Oh and you too Rex.
Ha!
This is my time, Rex!!!
Thank you Rex. That was a very informative and thoroughly enjoyable tutorial. Thankyou so much!
Congratulations on the 100 video landmark Rex. Thank ≠you≠ so much for all the great videos!
The OLD GOAT is bookmarking this vid as #1 finish. The most confusing part of any project, especially for a NOOB is finish and this vid greatly simplifies the issue.
Glad I could help.
THIS video (as usual) was informative, useful, entertaining, and excellent. Thank you.
So many great woodworking videos out there! But dude, I think yours edge out all the rest to be the best!
also easy is the danish (?) method of applying shellack for a very nice hard and shiny finish, dilute it and then apply very lightly multiple times with a buffing cloth
I need to try that.
I love the way you simplify things!👍👍👍😎🇨🇱
Thank you!
Congratulations on the 100th video 👊😎🤙🍻
Hey Rex, new to the channel and loving it! Planning my first project as I watch this series!
Question on this video: What is the purpose of the wax coat at the end of each finish? I feel you explained the 3 finishes very well, but I didn't understand if/why it needed the additional wax coat at the end?
Thanks in advance!
The wax helps lubricate the steel wool for the final polish. It also adds another layer of protection.
Can't wait. Been mixing my own shellac from flakes and buttons for a few years. The button lac I use still has wax and is fantastic for a french polish while the flakes are dewaxed and great as either a base coat or final finish. And you can even get clear powder shellac if you want no color added. It's great on sanded 220 wood but sometimes you can get a shimmer when used on smoothing planed surfaces because of the way the fibers stand. And it's really easy to make whenever you need it, just give the flakes a couple of hours to disolve.
It's great stuff. My house came with a ton of cast offs for the original owner. In the basement workshop, one jewel I found was a half gallon jar half full of varnish granules. I've been using it for several years and still have not had to repurchase yet.
shellac is not as hard as polyurethane but I like it as a finish and it feels more tactile. I use tru-oil and I find it does a superior job for hardness... pretty nasty stuff though.
Why the steel wool for the wax? I haven't thought of that. And I'm a little gun-shy considering the "abrasiveness".
And I'm glad for Paul and you. It's always nice to have a buddy in the wings, or be the buddy.
0000 steel wool is more like a polishing aid than an abrasive, & you're not putting any pressure down on the wood, so no need to worry too much about that. You could just as well use a rag or whatever you're comfortable with though, & steel wool might be best avoided if the piece will be around water, due to the potential for rust spots.
@@nightcatarts ok. So I guess it's a tomato/tomahto thing then. Thank you.
Very well explained and information. I'm just starting out with woodworking and this video really helps. Thanks.
Would BLO with with an epoxy, say, for a live edge table?
Also for those who don't thin out their polyurethane, do not play with it too long because you'll introduce streaks into the finish that you'll have to sand out.
Thanks for delving into the topic. You did a nice job keeping a topic which has more options about it, fairly simple.
I use my old gelato containers for mixing finish too.
I've already got about a million of them.
Excellent usage of a Tolenti gelato container!
The only thing better is it's original contents!
Best explanation ever. Thanks a lot!!
My pleasure!
dust is the reason why old timey japanese craftsmen would sometimes finished their products on a boat, far away from any plants spreading pollen and other pollutants in the air.
my father on the other hand just simply doesn't do anything dusty when he's finishing.
Could you do a dedicated one for how to finish Pine wood? ..what are the different options and how they look.
There are 0 videos on this on TH-cam considering it is the go to wood for most beginners because of cost and availability.
Awesome formula for finishing! Thanks for sharing.
BLO is great, and dries enough to not be tacky quickly. It doesn't care in that time, though, and won't really provide nearly as much protection before it's fully cured.
Rex, for years I've stuck with Watco Danish oil (clear). Simple, wood looks great and it's food safe. (Don't we all eat on the couch or chair we made sometimes?) Any thoughts on putting a film over it? I've never done it because the feel of the wood appeals to me, which will not be the same with a film. Thoughts?
New subscriber, just found you today, but I appreciate the straightforward how-to approach.
Do you have any experience with Danish oil. I will try linseed oil, but I have great outcomes with Danish oil and either paste wax or water based polyurethane. GM
linseed oill beneath orange shellac is one of my favorites
I find that I have to let the oil really harden for a few days before applying the shellac.
I also find that I have to thin the shellac. It's too thick directly from the can.
Orange shellac is much more difficult to apply nicely than clear shellac
Straight to the point explanation, followed by convincing practical demonstration. Rex is a craftsman and skilled educator. I learned a lot.
thank you!
This was very enlightening. Thank you!
Hi Rex. Another great video, very clearly explained and much appreciated. Thank you.
The painter I worked for would use a screen funnel for the poly and thin just the 1st coat of poly.
Great video. Suggestions to consider for the future, perhaps? Making a using a strop. Choosing and using chisels (bevel and mortice). Keep up the work :-)
2:00
A beautiful bowl to use for shaving soap.
“I do all my finishing in the kitchen - when my wife is out at the store and I pack everything away before she gets back”
Wife: Rex, what’s that smell in the kitchen and why are the windows open? Have you been doing woodwork in the kitchen again?!
Rex: 🤫 No ?
Actually, she comes in a says: "Hmm, smells like money."
I thought this comment was going in another direction 😂
You should have a real TV show. Really enjoy your channel!
Okay, so ONE thing I wanted to use with woodworking can start fires, that is good to know.
Thank you.
No trouble!
but wood is flammable.
Love that tool box. Right to the top of my to do list. Thanks
I know I'm late to the show, but I'm curious about Tung Oil. I recently got interested in doing more woodworking, and did a little research and landed my sights on Tung Oil. So far, it's been a great decision. I don't even put paste wax on the finished woods and I really like the finish I'm getting. It's supposed to be safe and non-toxic. I really like the color the wood turns, and the durability seems very good, too.
Rex, what do you know about it, and have you tried using it before? What were your experiences? Could you do a video about using Tung Oil or include it in another finishing video? Did you already?
Thanks, for your time and your information.
Thanks Rex! I will have to start using that poly thining concept in my finishing as well. Looks like a great idea! :)
Thanks very much!
I did not know, that I know more than I thought I knew, now I know.
Thanks for that, and the great videos.
Really excellent video! Many Thanks! What type of finish would you use for woodworking workbench tops?
Thank You Rex, awesome video. can you give me your opinion? I just made a work bench from 2x4". I planned it to 2.5". I have given it one good coat of boiled linseed oil. What do you recommend I do to finish it up? for a work bench should I leave it alone or oil it or paste wax it? Also, is there a way I can ensure it wont warp as it dries? That is a concern for me. THANKS!!!!!!
So simple and practical. Thank you!
Shellac makes a great universal sealer as it will keep tannins from bleeding through paint and it sticks to everything and everything will stick to it.
Also, when buying polyurethane buy high gloss. You can always tone down the shine with 0000 steel wool, but satin finishes contain flattening agents that obscure the view of the grain.
I learnt so much from your video