"With my shop made square" I had to pause and look closer, because holy crap, I didn't think you made that yourself. That square is a piece of art itself. Have my subscription.
It's quite nice seeing a channel that doesn't concentrate on costly tools that many beginners whom are just starting out, don't have the kind of cash to afford out right.
This guy has saved many of my projects and if I had to pay to watch his videos I would. Although since subscribing to him, my table saw and planer machine are getting lonely. Even my drills are starting to collect dust and My jig saw is basically just for T track. My router still gets some work but now that I’m getting better with my chisels, even he is collecting unemployment. My neighbors probably think I’ve either given up woodworking or that I dont have electricity anymore because my wood shop is a lot quieter . This bald Buckeye is one badass woodworker.
I specially liked the end, where you did a sort of troubleshooting of the project. Im currently making the paul sellers’ bench and god, just cutting those big leg-frame rail’s tenons can be way too tricky. There’s just so many things that a beginner can (and will) will do badly, so the troubleshooting part is as important as the project description per se. And I didn’t even mentioned the mortises... I spent more time correcting the holes, and then correcting my corrections, than chopping them. After you overcome your frustrations and understand that you shouldn’t expect your joints to be perfect like the ones in the how-to videos, it is actually pretty funny to see each leg a little less crappy than the previous one. Thanks a lot for tour videos!
@@RexKrueger Paul Sellers bench is OK for him but it's not what I'd want. Skirts and tool tills take me out of my head space. Being a minimalist I just want a slab top. Ideally it would just float in the air. But in deference to physics I am willing to make some compromises.
To optimize handsaw cuts, use the knife-marking technique Paul Sellers calls a "knife wall." It is actually quite an ancient trick and if your saw is sharp and well tuned (doesn't show a tendency to turn in the cut), you get a clean cut with no tear out or hanging fibers. It works well. The knife cut also helps with creating clean shot surfaces with no broken corners on your work piece.
This channel is a gold mine filled with platinum. Most people are always obsessing over their *_LOUD,_* expensive, inefficient power tools, and it's almost impossible to find videos with proper technique and best practices using hand tools. Thank you so much for making these videos. The odd thing is, I would expect traditionalist, conservative people to produce videos like this, but instead they are the ones most likely to be on board (no pun) with the obnoxious power tool fetish. I don't understand it, but I'm glad you're out here doing the Right Thing, regardless of your philosophical views.
This was brilliant. I am just getting started in woodworking and have very limited tools. No proper bench (using an old table), no circular saw and no benchsaw. Getting edges straight was driving me nuts but this now gives me new hope. Thanks. You have earned a new subscriber.
A Bench Hook exactly like yours was the first project my school woodworking class shop teacher had us make, many years ago. I have no idea what happened to it in the intervening years but thanks for this video Rex I will make a new one!
These videos make me more confident about woodworking whereas a lot of the stuff on youtube makes me feel worse. Truly these woodworking for humans series should be really successful.
14:30 onwards ... I tried to make a shooting board as a teenager. It didn't work very well. Then I made another. That didn't work very well either. Then I figured out that they can't work on a plane with a full-width blade - like the one I was using! Another good one, Rex. Thanks
There's a way around this, use scrap to elevate the plane so its flush with the work. Or you could skip adding the run (the part you set the work on) all together and just have a fence to press the work against. Then, just don't run your plane into your fence and you're good. You could also just use a squared piece of scrap as a fence, and make a disposable fence, but that would lead to more waste.
@@sirgouki6207 Thanks! My way round it was to get a Stanley No.6! I had made the mistake of fundamentally misunderstanding what was and wasn't accessible to the plane blade. I was only 14 and had more enthusiasm than ability back then!
Let me just reiterate that you (obviously) having actual teaching experience adds so much value to your instructions. I am a tp-down, ends-mean learner if ever there was one, and you talk straight into my head.
The first time I saw the Ryoba saw was on yout video now I have 5 or 6 of them. Its nice to have more tools in the box. We use them cutting screen mold in a miter box. Keep them coming
My father taught me how to use and make tools in the 60's and 70's and he would always remind me that if you want to cut or plane or hammer something straight; your shoulder, arm and tool should all be in line as well. He was not a furniture maker by any means and; being Australian; we never worked with softwoods (they weren't really available until mid 80's). The main timbers used were Ironbark (Eucalyptus Crebra) and Forest Red Gum (Eucalyptus Tereticornis). Very strong and very heavy. Great channel and great advice.
That is about the only thing I remember from woodwork at school in UK with mad teacher. Having said that, I then never know where to put the rest of my body 😂
Rex.. have you ever been described as the new Norm Abrams? It's nice to see basic skills taught simply..... before, you know, Delta starts throughing free tools at you to sell to your viewers. Keep up the common touch. Us cellar wood shop hobbyists appreciate it.
I was grateful that you addressed the use of pull saws because that is pretty much all that we have access to in Japan, and there isn’t much information about their use even on TH-cam Japan.
Rex, your $30 vise is perfect for grabbing your bench book's cleat and keeping the whole thing immobile. When I had a leg vise I used to clamp my cleat up to make repetitive cuts less laborious. Fantastic video as always.
I really like the Woodworking For Humans series because you make useful projects using only basic affordable hand tools and lumber from the home center. Thanks for making this series.
I am in my 70's now just getting back to this wonderful hobby. My dad, who passed away almost 40 years ago taught me the value of keeping your saw blade nice and shiny ... while you're cutting, simply watch the reflection of the piece you're cutting and it should appear that it is going right through your saw blade. Watching your videos, I can see that you're doing just that - even though it may be subconscious to you.
Rex, I really appreciate the way you are introducing people to woodworking, and even more your concept of bootstrapping up through the evolution of woodworking technology and technique. All success at it! Albert Beckers does raise a really important point, though. At 12.35, you cut off your board beautifully like an old timey carpenter; knee up on the bench holding your stock, your shoulder, elbow, wrist, and saw kerf all aligned in a plane. No errant geometry to urge your cut to one side or the other. Now look at the body mechanics at 2.03. As the saw is pushed, so many angles continuously changing; the brain must be constantly feeding a change of angle into the wrist and elbow each stroke, every stroke. I think that the best opportunity for a really square cut is either a fully jigged accessory like a mitre-box, or the time honored technique, for journeyman, master, or novice alike, of a knifed layout line with a tiny trough pared or chipped out on the waste side. The saw teeth start the cut already clear of your layout, and all you have to worry about is keeping it vertical. This is covered by many elsewhere on TH-cam. A keyword could be knifewall.
Another good position to use either of the jigs is to clamp the cleat at the end of the bench (in the vice you added). It won't move, and you'll have both hands to easily hold your materials and tools.
At first I didn't like your videos or your style of speaking in them but after a few, I found your content extremely efficient. I've got way better results with basically everything and tend to listen/watch your content while I Finnish my 7th. or so cup of coffee. In a bus, while driving, so on. Thanks for creating these for us to enjoy!
Every video i watch of you just shows me how much me and my father have been complicating our own lives for a very long time, luckyly i have the time to correct those mistakes when i strat my own solo projects
From an old fart who's lost a few of those hairs in my ears that pickup sound: Thanks for taking the trouble to speak clearly and at a consistent volume. I really do appreciate it.
I put myself through college by making custom furniture with power tools so I thought I was badass. Then I moved to Miami and space became a premium. I thought ... no problem I'll just start using these old hand tools my grandfather (a REAL carpenter) passed on to me since they take up less space than my table saw, jointer, router table etc. I quickly learned there is knowing how to use hand tools and there is knowing HOW to use hand tools. So many things I never had to consider came to the forefront and I almost gave up the hobby I love most in the world. Thank you so much for these videos.
Every time I run into a problem with my budget woodworking, you upload a video solving that problem... this time it was square cuts with a pull saw, a few weeks ago it was finding a cheap, thick-threaded screw for my vice. One day I will make a video on my kit to show it off, but the oak I looted has to dry first ;)
i have been woodcarving for 30 years and always had a bench hook. i also use a router mat for putting a panel carving flat on the table. this technique works great and a router mat does not cost much. my next project is the shooting board. also i have seen drawings of the bench hook that is designed just for woodcarving. It has a notch at the top that accepts the pressure as you carve from the left or right . and the carving does not have to be spun around as you continue to carve anyway.......thanks
Thank you, Rex for this channel. Once again you've shown how to make something with minimal tools. Many starting out don't have, or even have access to, the tools shown in others' videos showing how to make a shooting board. Applause and Cheers!
You asked for pull saw tips and I know one that really helped me. I do not know if anyone has said it and if they have Im sorry for the repeat. Use the metal mirror reflection on the side of the saw. When you are aligned perfectly vertically the mirror reflection lines up perfectly with the wood as if it were 1 continuous piece of wood. Try it and you will see what I mean. It doesnt take long to get the hang of and definitely helped me. Just keep checking it every few seconds as you saw.
I really like this series, particularly the "you can do it" vibe of it. Two things that came to my mind regarding accuracy: working to knife lines seems pretty central, and keeping an eye on the lateral adjustment of the plane iron when shooting so your work ends up square in both dimensions.
Great video but... OML!!! The disclaimer in the end... We have a saying in Portugal: "Para bom entendedor meia palavra basta!" Loose translation is: To a good "understander" a half a word is enough! (google translate: To the wise, half a word is enough!) I've been learning alooooot with your videos and even stopped obcessing with that next power tool that will make that specific job more easy and I gues that is the great thing - Practise makes perfection! In portuguese: "Pratica e serás mestre!" (Practise and you'll become a master!) Thaks Rex!! Keep up the good work!
Finally! Someone explains why the plane doesn’t just keep cutting. I don’t know why I didn’t realize it before, it seems obvious. But thanks for clearing up my confusion with shooting boards.
Dear Rex, you were using the double sided Ryoba saw for cross-cutting and getting some wobbling and blade flex as you go. Try out a Dozuki saw which has fine teeth for cross-cutting and a solid spine like a tenon saw to stop blade flex. It really is a magnificent saw. Like your work. Accurate work comes from good craftsmanship, not expensive tools. Cheers.
=D great job. I did my first shooting board yesterday. Had a few problems, but I learned in the experience. One thing I did differently, was I cut out a dado for my fence... and made it wedge shaped so i can insert and remove it as needed. I also cut 3 dado instead of just one... so I could move it from 90 degree , 45 degree left or 45 degree right... the hard part for me was chiseling out the dado, but on the bright side, I didn't have to deal with any glue... until I made one of the dado's too wide at one end... and then had to glue in some shims to get the correct angle for the fence. I enjoyed the project and it only took a few hours... something fun to do after a hard day of working with my brain. a good change up to use my hands instead. Keep up the good work. =D
One of the first lessons when I was an apprentice was to make my bench hook so I could cut IT and NOT the bench. The second was the topside block isn't a starting fence - it's used to stop the wood slipping. To cut square needs good marking, (extend your index finger so you know where your fist is pointing) and lots of practice following it. Shooting board - textbook (no quibbles). I cant say how much I wish we'd had access to the pullsaws (in fact the whole toolbox) they are game changers.
@@jodyguilbeaux8225 it seems to work. all the carpenters I know cut that way. 3 fingers round the handle grip then index finger pressing against the flat pointing down the path like a finger gun. if you make a full fist there's nothing to stop your elbow moving out from your body when you push with the heel of your hand your grip twists left and inwards round the handle axis. Finger stops that and keeps your arm in the same line (the push shifts up a little and comes from the crook of your thumb and stops you pushing too hard). With a pull saw your grip is hand-shaking a broom handle and as you pull your elbow stays in the same position because your body is in the way and acts like a guide. If you try it you'll feel the difference immediately.
I didn`t intend to make use of this woodworking book, t.co/SGIXIPXR0z but rather curious about it. I had been truly amazed right after trying it. It never disappointed me in my wish to acquire more information about the art of wood working. Many topics were covered, including everything from wood types to developing your workshop.?
Lesson plans begin with good prep [basic, training/teaching 101], you're doing just fine. I can see you're trying to teach the mental approach to precision here, as much as actual precision. I think a lot of newbies [and its happened to me] go out and buy big 'all-shiny' WW tools/machines expecting automatic accuracy. . .and been disappointed! It should be made clear that your handtool basics are the beginning of all great carpentry/woodworking - the fancy equipment is NOT where the skill lies. Cheers Rex, I'm sure you're having a great impact on the furthering of wood working for future generations.
Totally agree. As a newbie, I bought a fancy sliding Miter saw and even that doesn't cut very accurate. With most of the cut, I have to trim the end a little bit. And the machine never gives the satisfaction like you have when cut with hand. When you use hand tools, you have your muscles, mind and senses and concentration work and that makes you happy... And plus, machines always create dust and noise... But of course sometimes machines are very useful especially when cutting multiple pieces in same exact lenght and when you need to finish the work quickly. Rex, you are encouraging newbie wood workers in a very positive way for us not having feeling to need the best machine tools to do good work and have self trust and patience. Thank you :)
For situations where you need a 90° cut but you have to cut freehand i recommend polishing the sides of you japanese pull saw to a near mirror finish. that way you can see a clear reflection of the edge of the workpiece in the side of the saw. If the edge of your workpiece and its reflection form a straight line without bending into any direction you are plum with your saw.
Thank's for all thw wood working advice you've been giving. I've been following them and most of my project turned out better I hoped. And my wife has been very pleased with the thing I've made around the house. Keep up the great work.
I like to use a block plane to shoot square ends, due to the more acute angle and 'bevel up' of the tool. I find it's easier to chop through the end grain that way.
My shooting board is one of my favorite shop made tools. I always have fun using it. With a shooting board, you can get off square cuts if your plane iron is skewed to one side. It’s good to try on a bit of scrap before you cut a precious bit of wood! I like to rub some candle wax on the track for the plane. It glides nicely!
This series has been incredibly helpful for me. I've learnt so much from these videos, and have become much more confident in my woodworking. Thank you Rex.
Tip: sink and glue a neodymium magnet into the end grain of the fence and the saw blade will still slide but stick to it. But I'd make the fence wider and taller but not taller then the saw blade.
An addition to the bench-hook that may help true things up is a technique that I know as a "knife wall", essentially taking a wedge out of all four sides of the work piece, where that wedge is at 90 degrees along the cut line, and angled out into the waste. Done right it should guide your saw blade and would be brilliant paired with the bench hook. All that's required is good marks and a sharp chisel.
I don't know how I got here. I have been in tech woodworking shop class since the early 90s and havent whittled anything for 3 years, and live in a small apartment with nowhere to put tools. But for some reason I'm drinking up all these videos.
Some 4 plus decades ago my uncle taught me keep my saws shiny. The reflection keeps your cut square. If the reflection looks like it passes thru and lines up with the board on the other side or if it looks like the board continues in a straight line (shorter pieces) you will be very very close.
Great videos, lovely and clear. I like the shooting board a lot. I've never seen one before. Well done. I think, though, the user will still need to learn the skill of holding the plane square. It is very easy to rock it a bit and lose the "squareness". On the subject of cutting square, I was taught the method of holding your head above the work piece and look down on the saw. You should be able to see both sides of the blade at the same time! Keep it like that as you cut and let the weight of the saw do the work and it should cut true.
Just a tip for using a square, place the stock on the same edge to mark both faces that you want to cut. If you want to mark all 4 faces, the stock should be placed along only 2 edges that are diagonally opposite each other and the stock should point toward the same end of the timber being marked. This ensures that errors cancel out instead of accumulating. Also, use a marking knife and lay the knife in the end of the previous mark (at the edge between the previous and new faces), then bring the square up to the knife and mark the new face. This ensures you do not make marking errors going from one face to another. Together, these ensure that your marking out is exactly aligned on all 4 faces.
Aw, Rex... Your vids, especially this one, make me wish TH-cam had existed when I was 20. I had to build a short-term-use table out of scrap wood because I was poor, and everything came out with visible 1/8th to 1/16th inch gaps because I did my best without the right tools, and this vid would have been such a help. :-(
There a couple things that might be useful for some. I don't glue down the fence or the hook. The fence does tend to wear, and if, like I do, you use the same board to shoot and to crosscut it can gradually get a bit ragged. Not gluing the fence make it easier to replace. Another thing I do, since I have a regular bench, is to catch the hook in the face vise. That eliminates the problem of a saw snagging and dragging the board or causing it to rotate.
Always appreciate your content! Aside from “it just looks good” is it important to have the fence of the bench hook square to the base if the thing that guides the saw is the end of the fence and the face of the fence positions the stock being cut? It seems that the face of the fence has to be straight and square with the end as well as square with the top of the base and that’s it. If you don’t glue the fence on, you can take it off to true up its end on your shooting board after it gets chewed up by the sawcuts. The above comments assume you made both the bench hook and shooting board…
I really enjoy watching all the videos. One thing about my first Irwin ryoba pull saw. It does not care for staples. I have 1 in shop and 1 in both job boxes. Great tools . Thanks REX.
As a south-paw I'd like to point out that these gadgets need to be built as a reflection of yours, or we'll be learning even more new techniques! An interesting point [from the 1970's] when I built my 1st bench hook in woodwork class; the fence and cleat both spanned the entire width of the board. The fence at the far end and the cleat right back at the front edge. We were even told that the cleat could be secured in the vice to hold the board even more stable.
Ive found it helps to make a second bench hook from the same materials*, without the top fence, to help support the tail of my board when it's fairly long. *Same thickness bed (the part Rex made from pine cabibet door) at least, which is all that really matters.
The bench hook and shooting board are really useful fixtures, the first one makes the work quick and the second one is really helpful to correct slightly out of square cuts. It is worth to make them, but it is possible to work without them. The real key of perfectly square cross cuts is the woodworker proficiency, there are no shortcuts to that, grabbing some spare wood, marking cut lines each one 1/2 inch apart from the previous one and practicing the use of the saw is the real "jig" that grants perfect results, it is like driving a car or motorcycle, you can not pretend to be a proficient driver in the first couple of hours you begin to drive it, practicing everyone becomes proficient, hand-eye coordination and muscle memory have to be build. And practicing like that pays a lot, as repeating a thing many times in a row is much more effective then doing it once then skip to an other thing. For the same reason when they study the musicians play over an over the same measure or couple of measures instead of playing over and over the whole piece of music. Also depending on jigs and fixtures can be a shortcut that can mask the lack of proficiency, but as soon as is no more possible to use them, let's say because the cut has to be very precise, but is out of square, the difference between building jigs and training your skills shows up... I have and use bench hooks and in am not suggesting in any way to don't build or use what you show in the video, don't get me wrong. I am only suggesting to the beginner woodworkers that strive to get good results with their saws to spend at the beginning few hours in training, with method and dedication. Only few hours, let's say 15 minutes at the beginning of each woodworking session, can build a skill that will help trough the whole life and it is NOT a waste of time in the long run as precise cuts need less time to be corrected with the plane if they need it at all and prevent a lot of problems in building something complex like a piece of furniture. Few hours of training at the beginning will make spare many hours later... I apologize for the text wall, but i could not find a shorter way to tell it.
Helpful tip: If you can, polish your sawblade. With a decent reflection, you can see the board and if you keep the reflection and board lined up you will make a "perfect" 90. Also, making a miter box would be a good addition to the tool kit and also provides a bit more ease getting good 90s and 45s and helps the learning woodworker gain confidence.
I'm not talking mirror shine here. I'm not saying you *have* to do it, just offering a tip I learned about of something that actually does help to get better freehand square cuts to those who are inexperienced.
@@1pcfred I use my hitachi miter saw, but I was trying to offer tips in the "woodworking for humans" line. So skipping powered and suggesting fairly free/cheap ways of doing it.
@@peregrine1970there is very little available for cheap or free when it comes to getting a good hand saw these days. There just is not a volume market to support economy with hand saws anymore. Power tools on the other hand are plentiful enough that getting deals on them is not uncommon. My main table saw cost me about $50. At that price it even came with a half decent blade on it when I got it. Although it did need some attention to get it in running shape again.
Great video. I learn a lot from you. But there is one thing I noticed when you were using your normal sas (2:03). My dad was a carpenter for most of his life and he tought me to place the shoulder and elbow (of the hand that is holding the saw) in the line of the cut to prevent the sawblade from wobling. Then you have an even better chance of getting the perfect cut you desire ..
This was pretty-darned cool! I've not seen such a detailed walk-through anywhere on making these very essential tools - thank you so very much, Rex! ^_^
This is my first time watching, and I can say this is honestly one of the best woodworking channels on youtube. Very high quality and very professional. Super easy to follow along with clear instructions and you also seem like a real nice guy. Theres too many big egos in wood working and you definitely arnt in that category. Subscribed!
Thank You, Rex. I'm a new woodworker and am getting my tiny 1-car garage dialed in, but your "rexkrueger.com" store is excellent for me. It will help me get my work dialed in better with minimal cost. I've saved your page to my toolbar so that I can eventually purchase and build many of your jigs. I am grateful for your help. Between your website and your videos, you are really helping me up my game. I think this Shooting Board and Bench Hook will be the #1 purchase. Yes, I could study your videos and save a buck, but I think that it's important to pay for value. If I want you to keep giving away good information I better try to help make it worth your time. Thank You, again, Rex.
thumbs up to have rex do tutorials this thorough for every aspect of life
You're very kind!
Here here!
If, however, there were enough time and Rex accepted this task then he would surely be driven insane and then we would miss him.
Amen!
@@RexKrueger you are absolutely welcome 🙏🏼 love 💕
"With my shop made square"
I had to pause and look closer, because holy crap, I didn't think you made that yourself. That square is a piece of art itself.
Have my subscription.
You're very kind, but you can make one. It's really not hard and I have a video!
IT'S! !! A !! MUSEUM !! SQUARE !! NOW !!
My favorite Rex quote in this one, which has a Zen-like quality:
" ... I'm just sitting on a milk crate. It's perfectly comfortable."
It's quite nice seeing a channel that doesn't concentrate on costly tools that many beginners whom are just starting out, don't have the kind of cash to afford out right.
I am watching this eagerly whilst knowing I am not making that bench. Love the bench and this technique. One day I will have room for such a bench.
This guy has saved many of my projects and if I had to pay to watch his videos I would. Although since subscribing to him, my table saw and planer machine are getting lonely. Even my drills are starting to collect dust and My jig saw is basically just for T track. My router still gets some work but now that I’m getting better with my chisels, even he is collecting unemployment. My neighbors probably think I’ve either given up woodworking or that I dont have electricity anymore because my wood shop is a lot quieter . This bald Buckeye is one badass woodworker.
I specially liked the end, where you did a sort of troubleshooting of the project. Im currently making the paul sellers’ bench and god, just cutting those big leg-frame rail’s tenons can be way too tricky. There’s just so many things that a beginner can (and will) will do badly, so the troubleshooting part is as important as the project description per se. And I didn’t even mentioned the mortises... I spent more time correcting the holes, and then correcting my corrections, than chopping them. After you overcome your frustrations and understand that you shouldn’t expect your joints to be perfect like the ones in the how-to videos, it is actually pretty funny to see each leg a little less crappy than the previous one. Thanks a lot for tour videos!
Paul Sellers has a bit of practice under his belt.
Man, good luck with that bench. By the time I saw those videos, I already had a bench, but I've always liked that design.
@@RexKrueger Paul Sellers bench is OK for him but it's not what I'd want. Skirts and tool tills take me out of my head space. Being a minimalist I just want a slab top. Ideally it would just float in the air. But in deference to physics I am willing to make some compromises.
To optimize handsaw cuts, use the knife-marking technique Paul Sellers calls a "knife wall." It is actually quite an ancient trick and if your saw is sharp and well tuned (doesn't show a tendency to turn in the cut), you get a clean cut with no tear out or hanging fibers. It works well. The knife cut also helps with creating clean shot surfaces with no broken corners on your work piece.
This channel is a gold mine filled with platinum. Most people are always obsessing over their *_LOUD,_* expensive, inefficient power tools, and it's almost impossible to find videos with proper technique and best practices using hand tools. Thank you so much for making these videos.
The odd thing is, I would expect traditionalist, conservative people to produce videos like this, but instead they are the ones most likely to be on board (no pun) with the obnoxious power tool fetish. I don't understand it, but I'm glad you're out here doing the Right Thing, regardless of your philosophical views.
This was brilliant. I am just getting started in woodworking and have very limited tools. No proper bench (using an old table), no circular saw and no benchsaw. Getting edges straight was driving me nuts but this now gives me new hope. Thanks. You have earned a new subscriber.
A Bench Hook exactly like yours was the first project my school woodworking class shop teacher had us make, many years ago. I have no idea what happened to it in the intervening years but thanks for this video Rex I will make a new one!
These videos make me more confident about woodworking whereas a lot of the stuff on youtube makes me feel worse. Truly these woodworking for humans series should be really successful.
That's the idea! I'm glad it's working!
Chris Thornborrow Try woodworking for Mere Mortals
14:30 onwards ... I tried to make a shooting board as a teenager. It didn't work very well. Then I made another. That didn't work very well either. Then I figured out that they can't work on a plane with a full-width blade - like the one I was using!
Another good one, Rex. Thanks
There's a way around this, use scrap to elevate the plane so its flush with the work. Or you could skip adding the run (the part you set the work on) all together and just have a fence to press the work against. Then, just don't run your plane into your fence and you're good. You could also just use a squared piece of scrap as a fence, and make a disposable fence, but that would lead to more waste.
@@sirgouki6207 Thanks! My way round it was to get a Stanley No.6! I had made the mistake of fundamentally misunderstanding what was and wasn't accessible to the plane blade. I was only 14 and had more enthusiasm than ability back then!
Let me just reiterate that you (obviously) having actual teaching experience adds so much value to your instructions. I am a tp-down, ends-mean learner if ever there was one, and you talk straight into my head.
That's really nice to hear. This channel has become very education-focused and I'm glad it's working!
The first time I saw the Ryoba saw was on yout video now I have 5 or 6 of them. Its nice to have more tools in the box. We use them cutting screen mold in a miter box. Keep them coming
My father taught me how to use and make tools in the 60's and 70's and he would always remind me that if you want to cut or plane or hammer something straight; your shoulder, arm and tool should all be in line as well. He was not a furniture maker by any means and; being Australian; we never worked with softwoods (they weren't really available until mid 80's). The main timbers used were Ironbark (Eucalyptus Crebra) and Forest Red Gum (Eucalyptus Tereticornis). Very strong and very heavy. Great channel and great advice.
That is about the only thing I remember from woodwork at school in UK with mad teacher. Having said that, I then never know where to put the rest of my body 😂
Rex.. have you ever been described as the new Norm Abrams? It's nice to see basic skills taught simply..... before, you know, Delta starts throughing free tools at you to sell to your viewers. Keep up the common touch. Us cellar wood shop hobbyists appreciate it.
I was grateful that you addressed the use of pull saws because that is pretty much all that we have access to in Japan, and there isn’t much information about their use even on TH-cam Japan.
I admit, I'm not very good with these tools, but I'm working on it!
Rex, your $30 vise is perfect for grabbing your bench book's cleat and keeping the whole thing immobile. When I had a leg vise I used to clamp my cleat up to make repetitive cuts less laborious. Fantastic video as always.
I'm pretty happy with it, too. Glad you think they work well together!
I really like the Woodworking For Humans series because you make useful projects using only basic affordable hand tools and lumber from the home center. Thanks for making this series.
John Kelley you're totally welcome!
Crystal clear narration, straightforward instructions and no annoyingly unnecessary music track. Where did you come from? Subscribed!
I continue to be impressed with your teaching style and obvious patience.
I appreciate that.
I am in my 70's now just getting back to this wonderful hobby. My dad, who passed away almost 40 years ago taught me the value of keeping your saw blade nice and shiny ... while you're cutting, simply watch the reflection of the piece you're cutting and it should appear that it is going right through your saw blade. Watching your videos, I can see that you're doing just that - even though it may be subconscious to you.
Rex, I really appreciate the way you are introducing people to woodworking, and even more your concept of bootstrapping up through the evolution of woodworking technology and technique. All success at it!
Albert Beckers does raise a really important point, though. At 12.35, you cut off your board beautifully like an old timey carpenter; knee up on the bench holding your stock, your shoulder, elbow, wrist, and saw kerf all aligned in a plane. No errant geometry to urge your cut to one side or the other.
Now look at the body mechanics at 2.03. As the saw is pushed, so many angles continuously changing; the brain must be constantly feeding a change of angle into the wrist and elbow each stroke, every stroke.
I think that the best opportunity for a really square cut is either a fully jigged accessory like a mitre-box, or the time honored technique, for journeyman, master, or novice alike, of a knifed layout line with a tiny trough pared or chipped out on the waste side. The saw teeth start the cut already clear of your layout, and all you have to worry about is keeping it vertical. This is covered by many elsewhere on TH-cam. A keyword could be knifewall.
Bootstrapping through! I love it!
Another good position to use either of the jigs is to clamp the cleat at the end of the bench (in the vice you added). It won't move, and you'll have both hands to easily hold your materials and tools.
At first I didn't like your videos or your style of speaking in them but after a few, I found your content extremely efficient.
I've got way better results with basically everything and tend to listen/watch your content while I Finnish my 7th. or so cup of coffee. In a bus, while driving, so on.
Thanks for creating these for us to enjoy!
Every video i watch of you just shows me how much me and my father have been complicating our own lives for a very long time, luckyly i have the time to correct those mistakes when i strat my own solo projects
From an old fart who's lost a few of those hairs in my ears that pickup sound: Thanks for taking the trouble to speak clearly and at a consistent volume. I really do appreciate it.
Joe Solla and I offer the same thanks as a beginner woodworker who is hard of hearing.
Dito
Says exactly just what he needs to. Maintains personality. cuts the shit. Says it clearly.
@@5amJones69 this is why we love rex
And no stupid background music.
I put myself through college by making custom furniture with power tools so I thought I was badass. Then I moved to Miami and space became a premium. I thought ... no problem I'll just start using these old hand tools my grandfather (a REAL carpenter) passed on to me since they take up less space than my table saw, jointer, router table etc. I quickly learned there is knowing how to use hand tools and there is knowing HOW to use hand tools. So many things I never had to consider came to the forefront and I almost gave up the hobby I love most in the world. Thank you so much for these videos.
Rex, the "King" of TH-cam woodworking! Love your videos!
Wow, thanks!
Every time I run into a problem with my budget woodworking, you upload a video solving that problem... this time it was square cuts with a pull saw, a few weeks ago it was finding a cheap, thick-threaded screw for my vice. One day I will make a video on my kit to show it off, but the oak I looted has to dry first ;)
I really appreciate that! I would love to see a tour of your kit.
i have been woodcarving for 30 years and always had a bench hook. i also use a router mat for putting a panel carving flat on the table. this technique works great and a router mat does not cost much. my next project is the shooting board. also i have seen drawings of the bench hook that is designed just for woodcarving. It has a notch at the top that accepts the pressure as you carve from the left or right . and the carving does not have to be spun around as you continue to carve anyway.......thanks
I love this series, its like sitting in a class that you can work along with and it progresses building on what you learn. Thanks Rex!
I'm really glad you're finding it useful!
scribbling on the end grain, side to side edge to edge, with a pencil before shooting gives a good indication whether the end has been shot square.
Thank you, Rex for this channel. Once again you've shown how to make something with minimal tools. Many starting out don't have, or even have access to, the tools shown in others' videos showing how to make a shooting board. Applause and Cheers!
Well, i send gratitude and respect back towards you.
Thank you, excellent for us that don't have or can't afford all the machinery that is out there today
I love that, woodwork for humans. Thanks for the video rex.
You asked for pull saw tips and I know one that really helped me. I do not know if anyone has said it and if they have Im sorry for the repeat. Use the metal mirror reflection on the side of the saw. When you are aligned perfectly vertically the mirror reflection lines up perfectly with the wood as if it were 1 continuous piece of wood. Try it and you will see what I mean. It doesnt take long to get the hang of and definitely helped me. Just keep checking it every few seconds as you saw.
I really like this series, particularly the "you can do it" vibe of it. Two things that came to my mind regarding accuracy: working to knife lines seems pretty central, and keeping an eye on the lateral adjustment of the plane iron when shooting so your work ends up square in both dimensions.
Yes on both! Although the bench hook makes the knife line less important.
Great video but... OML!!! The disclaimer in the end... We have a saying in Portugal: "Para bom entendedor meia palavra basta!" Loose translation is: To a good "understander" a half a word is enough! (google translate: To the wise, half a word is enough!) I've been learning alooooot with your videos and even stopped obcessing with that next power tool that will make that specific job more easy and I gues that is the great thing - Practise makes perfection! In portuguese: "Pratica e serás mestre!" (Practise and you'll become a master!) Thaks Rex!! Keep up the good work!
Finally! Someone explains why the plane doesn’t just keep cutting. I don’t know why I didn’t realize it before, it seems obvious. But thanks for clearing up my confusion with shooting boards.
Great Rex. I made a bench hook in a furniture-making course I did and have kept it all these years. A really useful tool..
Dear Rex, you were using the double sided Ryoba saw for cross-cutting and getting some wobbling and blade flex as you go. Try out a Dozuki saw which has fine teeth for cross-cutting and a solid spine like a tenon saw to stop blade flex. It really is a magnificent saw. Like your work. Accurate work comes from good craftsmanship, not expensive tools. Cheers.
That's a good tip, but I think I'm gonna find an affordable Western back-saw. I just like those better.
=D great job. I did my first shooting board yesterday. Had a few problems, but I learned in the experience. One thing I did differently, was I cut out a dado for my fence... and made it wedge shaped so i can insert and remove it as needed. I also cut 3 dado instead of just one... so I could move it from 90 degree , 45 degree left or 45 degree right... the hard part for me was chiseling out the dado, but on the bright side, I didn't have to deal with any glue... until I made one of the dado's too wide at one end... and then had to glue in some shims to get the correct angle for the fence.
I enjoyed the project and it only took a few hours... something fun to do after a hard day of working with my brain. a good change up to use my hands instead. Keep up the good work. =D
All good points! I think it's time for a better version of this tool.
One of the first lessons when I was an apprentice was to make my bench hook so I could cut IT and NOT the bench. The second was the topside block isn't a starting fence - it's used to stop the wood slipping. To cut square needs good marking, (extend your index finger so you know where your fist is pointing) and lots of practice following it. Shooting board - textbook (no quibbles).
I cant say how much I wish we'd had access to the pullsaws (in fact the whole toolbox) they are game changers.
that is true about using the index finger as a guide.
@@jodyguilbeaux8225 it seems to work. all the carpenters I know cut that way. 3 fingers round the handle grip then index finger pressing against the flat pointing down the path like a finger gun.
if you make a full fist there's nothing to stop your elbow moving out from your body when you push with the heel of your hand your grip twists left and inwards round the handle axis. Finger stops that and keeps your arm in the same line (the push shifts up a little and comes from the crook of your thumb and stops you pushing too hard).
With a pull saw your grip is hand-shaking a broom handle and as you pull your elbow stays in the same position because your body is in the way and acts like a guide. If you try it you'll feel the difference immediately.
@@whitehoose cool
This channel starts to really catch me with its "start with simple tools" approach.
Nice!
Just !! Another! Handyman !! T.V !! SHOW !! THIS !! IS !!
Men , found this video when I almost finished all my project! But I’ll do my boards right now ! Great videos !
Thank you. I made a bench hook last year when I first got back into woodworking. I didn't really know what to do with it. Now I do! Thanks :)
I didn`t intend to make use of this woodworking book, t.co/SGIXIPXR0z but rather curious about it. I had been truly amazed right after trying it. It never disappointed me in my wish to acquire more information about the art of wood working. Many topics were covered, including everything from wood types to developing your workshop.?
This is rapidly becoming my favourite channel on TH-cam
Thank you!
Lesson plans begin with good prep [basic, training/teaching 101], you're doing just fine. I can see you're trying to teach the mental approach to precision here, as much as actual precision. I think a lot of newbies [and its happened to me] go out and buy big 'all-shiny' WW tools/machines expecting automatic accuracy. . .and been disappointed! It should be made clear that your handtool basics are the beginning of all great carpentry/woodworking - the fancy equipment is NOT where the skill lies. Cheers Rex, I'm sure you're having a great impact on the furthering of wood working for future generations.
Thank you! I'm trying.
Totally agree. As a newbie, I bought a fancy sliding Miter saw and even that doesn't cut very accurate. With most of the cut, I have to trim the end a little bit. And the machine never gives the satisfaction like you have when cut with hand. When you use hand tools, you have your muscles, mind and senses and concentration work and that makes you happy... And plus, machines always create dust and noise... But of course sometimes machines are very useful especially when cutting multiple pieces in same exact lenght and when you need to finish the work quickly.
Rex, you are encouraging newbie wood workers in a very positive way for us not having feeling to need the best machine tools to do good work and have self trust and patience. Thank you :)
For situations where you need a 90° cut but you have to cut freehand i recommend polishing the sides of you japanese pull saw to a near mirror finish. that way you can see a clear reflection of the edge of the workpiece in the side of the saw. If the edge of your workpiece and its reflection form a straight line without bending into any direction you are plum with your saw.
brilliant tutorial for human beginners like me! Thanks Rex!
Thank's for all thw wood working advice you've been giving. I've been following them and most of my project turned out better I hoped. And my wife has been very pleased with the thing I've made around the house. Keep up the great work.
I like to use a block plane to shoot square ends, due to the more acute angle and 'bevel up' of the tool. I find it's easier to chop through the end grain that way.
My shooting board is one of my favorite shop made tools. I always have fun using it. With a shooting board, you can get off square cuts if your plane iron is skewed to one side. It’s good to try on a bit of scrap before you cut a precious bit of wood!
I like to rub some candle wax on the track for the plane. It glides nicely!
This series has been incredibly helpful for me. I've learnt so much from these videos, and have become much more confident in my woodworking. Thank you Rex.
My pleasure!
Tip: sink and glue a neodymium magnet into the end grain of the fence and the saw blade will still slide but stick to it. But I'd make the fence wider and taller but not taller then the saw blade.
Two great suggestions!
An addition to the bench-hook that may help true things up is a technique that I know as a "knife wall", essentially taking a wedge out of all four sides of the work piece, where that wedge is at 90 degrees along the cut line, and angled out into the waste. Done right it should guide your saw blade and would be brilliant paired with the bench hook. All that's required is good marks and a sharp chisel.
I don't know how I got here. I have been in tech woodworking shop class since the early 90s and havent whittled anything for 3 years, and live in a small apartment with nowhere to put tools. But for some reason I'm drinking up all these videos.
Some 4 plus decades ago my uncle taught me keep my saws shiny. The reflection keeps your cut square. If the reflection looks like it passes thru and lines up with the board on the other side or if it looks like the board continues in a straight line (shorter pieces) you will be very very close.
Great videos, lovely and clear. I like the shooting board a lot. I've never seen one before. Well done. I think, though, the user will still need to learn the skill of holding the plane square. It is very easy to rock it a bit and lose the "squareness". On the subject of cutting square, I was taught the method of holding your head above the work piece and look down on the saw. You should be able to see both sides of the blade at the same time! Keep it like that as you cut and let the weight of the saw do the work and it should cut true.
Your channel is full of great stuff, and you're a pleasure to watch.
wow freaking awesome jig.Knocked one up then did 3 cuts of 3 x 2 almost perfect best cross cuts i have ever done ty so much subscribed
Just a tip for using a square, place the stock on the same edge to mark both faces that you want to cut. If you want to mark all 4 faces, the stock should be placed along only 2 edges that are diagonally opposite each other and the stock should point toward the same end of the timber being marked. This ensures that errors cancel out instead of accumulating.
Also, use a marking knife and lay the knife in the end of the previous mark (at the edge between the previous and new faces), then bring the square up to the knife and mark the new face. This ensures you do not make marking errors going from one face to another.
Together, these ensure that your marking out is exactly aligned on all 4 faces.
Aw, Rex... Your vids, especially this one, make me wish TH-cam had existed when I was 20. I had to build a short-term-use table out of scrap wood because I was poor, and everything came out with visible 1/8th to 1/16th inch gaps because I did my best without the right tools, and this vid would have been such a help. :-(
Well, better late than never. I'm turning 40 this year and I feel WAY behind.
There a couple things that might be useful for some. I don't glue down the fence or the hook. The fence does tend to wear, and if, like I do, you use the same board to shoot and to crosscut it can gradually get a bit ragged. Not gluing the fence make it easier to replace. Another thing I do, since I have a regular bench, is to catch the hook in the face vise. That eliminates the problem of a saw snagging and dragging the board or causing it to rotate.
Always appreciate your content!
Aside from “it just looks good” is it important to have the fence of the bench hook square to the base if the thing that guides the saw is the end of the fence and the face of the fence positions the stock being cut? It seems that the face of the fence has to be straight and square with the end as well as square with the top of the base and that’s it.
If you don’t glue the fence on, you can take it off to true up its end on your shooting board after it gets chewed up by the sawcuts.
The above comments assume you made both the bench hook and shooting board…
your videos are great and so encouraging for new workworkers like myself. all the best for the holiday season and a happy and healthy new year.
I really enjoy watching all the videos. One thing about my first Irwin ryoba pull saw. It does not care for staples. I have 1 in shop and 1 in both job boxes. Great tools . Thanks REX.
As a south-paw I'd like to point out that these gadgets need to be built as a reflection of yours, or we'll be learning even more new techniques!
An interesting point [from the 1970's] when I built my 1st bench hook in woodwork class; the fence and cleat both spanned the entire width of the board. The fence at the far end and the cleat right back at the front edge. We were even told that the cleat could be secured in the vice to hold the board even more stable.
Ive found it helps to make a second bench hook from the same materials*, without the top fence, to help support the tail of my board when it's fairly long.
*Same thickness bed (the part Rex made from pine cabibet door) at least, which is all that really matters.
Or saw the one here in half...
@@thewoodworkingmetalhead2712 I've found the wider the cleat and fence, the easier a bench hook is to use.
I love my Roy Underhill inspired hooks. No screws, no glue, extremely versatile.
@@weedeater64 So hooks, plural. Glad you agree.
The bench hook and shooting board are really useful fixtures, the first one makes the work quick and the second one is really helpful to correct slightly out of square cuts. It is worth to make them, but it is possible to work without them. The real key of perfectly square cross cuts is the woodworker proficiency, there are no shortcuts to that, grabbing some spare wood, marking cut lines each one 1/2 inch apart from the previous one and practicing the use of the saw is the real "jig" that grants perfect results, it is like driving a car or motorcycle, you can not pretend to be a proficient driver in the first couple of hours you begin to drive it, practicing everyone becomes proficient, hand-eye coordination and muscle memory have to be build.
And practicing like that pays a lot, as repeating a thing many times in a row is much more effective then doing it once then skip to an other thing. For the same reason when they study the musicians play over an over the same measure or couple of measures instead of playing over and over the whole piece of music.
Also depending on jigs and fixtures can be a shortcut that can mask the lack of proficiency, but as soon as is no more possible to use them, let's say because the cut has to be very precise, but is out of square, the difference between building jigs and training your skills shows up...
I have and use bench hooks and in am not suggesting in any way to don't build or use what you show in the video, don't get me wrong. I am only suggesting to the beginner woodworkers that strive to get good results with their saws to spend at the beginning few hours in training, with method and dedication. Only few hours, let's say 15 minutes at the beginning of each woodworking session, can build a skill that will help trough the whole life and it is NOT a waste of time in the long run as precise cuts need less time to be corrected with the plane if they need it at all and prevent a lot of problems in building something complex like a piece of furniture.
Few hours of training at the beginning will make spare many hours later...
I apologize for the text wall, but i could not find a shorter way to tell it.
This is the best woodworking series I've seen. Thanks Rex
thank you for watching it!
Thanks, Rex, this (and the rest of your videos) are really helpful as I get started.
Helpful tip: If you can, polish your sawblade. With a decent reflection, you can see the board and if you keep the reflection and board lined up you will make a "perfect" 90. Also, making a miter box would be a good addition to the tool kit and also provides a bit more ease getting good 90s and 45s and helps the learning woodworker gain confidence.
One thing you're not going to find in my shop is any hand saw so polished there's a reflection in the saw plate. Rust just don't gleam like that.
I'm not talking mirror shine here. I'm not saying you *have* to do it, just offering a tip I learned about of something that actually does help to get better freehand square cuts to those who are inexperienced.
@@peregrine1970 if I need a cut close to square I use my table saw. Hand tools certainly have their place. And I try to keep them in that spot too.
@@1pcfred I use my hitachi miter saw, but I was trying to offer tips in the "woodworking for humans" line. So skipping powered and suggesting fairly free/cheap ways of doing it.
@@peregrine1970there is very little available for cheap or free when it comes to getting a good hand saw these days. There just is not a volume market to support economy with hand saws anymore. Power tools on the other hand are plentiful enough that getting deals on them is not uncommon. My main table saw cost me about $50. At that price it even came with a half decent blade on it when I got it. Although it did need some attention to get it in running shape again.
Working as a tree surgeon, I learned to love the pull saw.
Rex is getting big! Nice job rex, I still remember finding you with 1k Subs and wondering how you didn't have more.
I felt the same way! (kidding)
WELL !! NOT!! EVERYBODY !! WANTS !! WOODWORK !! SHOVED !! UP !! THERE !! BEHINDS !!!
great video. More stuff for newbie woodworkers is allways appreciated.
I'll keep 'em coming!
Great video.
I learn a lot from you.
But there is one thing I noticed when you were using your normal sas (2:03).
My dad was a carpenter for most of his life and he tought me to place the shoulder and elbow (of the hand that is holding the saw) in the line of the cut to prevent the sawblade from wobling.
Then you have an even better chance of getting the perfect cut you desire ..
The same should be done with his pull saw, I cringe everytime I watch him saw something
This was pretty-darned cool! I've not seen such a detailed walk-through anywhere on making these very essential tools - thank you so very much, Rex! ^_^
Totally my pleasure!
Am a ones follower, your build projects are direct and I will be building the same tomorrow. Thank you!
Enthusiastic, practical easy-to-understand concise explanations, while using basic hand tools.
A great video as always. Congratulations on the 50k, well deserved along with James Wright you are one of the true gentlemen on TH-cam.
Thanks so much!
You really put things into perspective saying: it’s woodworking - it’s fun! 👍
never heard of a bench hook or shooting board until this video.. nice job
I find having a 2nd bench hook is great if you have a longer piece to cut. This way it’s supported and easier to hold in place.
Truth.
I would like to see more videos about this topic. It is really useful tool for accuracy.
This is my first time watching, and I can say this is honestly one of the best woodworking channels on youtube. Very high quality and very professional. Super easy to follow along with clear instructions and you also seem like a real nice guy. Theres too many big egos in wood working and you definitely arnt in that category. Subscribed!
My ego is actually huge. I fooled you! But really, welcome and thanks for watching!
I love this “wood working for humans”.
Thank You, Rex. I'm a new woodworker and am getting my tiny 1-car garage dialed in, but your "rexkrueger.com" store is excellent for me. It will help me get my work dialed in better with minimal cost. I've saved your page to my toolbar so that I can eventually purchase and build many of your jigs. I am grateful for your help. Between your website and your videos, you are really helping me up my game. I think this Shooting Board and Bench Hook will be the #1 purchase. Yes, I could study your videos and save a buck, but I think that it's important to pay for value. If I want you to keep giving away good information I better try to help make it worth your time. Thank You, again, Rex.
Thank you for all the tips and taking your time to teach us
Your page is incredible for an amateur on a budget. Thank you for all of this help!
Thank you!
One advice I got, with a smack at the back of my head, when I saw like you: "hey, I paid for the whole saw blade" ;)
Nice job, I really enjoy the manner in Which you communicate the subjects explained . Keep it up Mr awesome mere mortal.
Don't get confused. I'm human, but I'm no mortal!
Love the use of the salvaged doors!
Yet more good advice. Thank you!
Excellent video! Very clear and concise.
Glad you're happy making the videos :) they're nice to watch
Splendid tutorial. Thank you Rex for this wonderful video.
You should try putting a couple rare heart magnets in the end grain of your wood to help hold your saw tight to your fence.
Seems like a great idea!
That's rare earth
That is exactly what I was thinking
I taught my kids that the saw follows your elbow. Position your body so the elbow is directly behind the saw and moves in a straight line.