Springiness of previous designs could be credited to the strings and reduced with cables that had less give. So they could work with the right materials and tensioning.
Pretty sure that once the dowels are touching, it's no longer tensegrity. In particular, the dowels are now bending members. Not to say the design isn't cool - it definitely is; I think it's just more appropriately classified as a reciprocal frame than tensegrity.
I don't think it's "clickbait" per se. I think the structure is simply mis-classified. Click bait would be: "You won't BELIEVE how this ONE WEIRD TRICK made Tensegrity Table ACTUALLY WORK!"
I suspect that if @Alexandre Chappel had put the brass channels closer to the ends of the wooden members, he would have been able to keep the wood legs separated for a true integrity table.
I did my master thesis on tensegrity and sir, you are correct ! Furthermore, the glass is a rigid object joining other rigid object so even if the dowels were separated, still not complete tensegrity :) Still nice table !
I've been working in a school project for about a month now, and you may not believe it but one of my proposals was this exact table but just with 3 legs. Fortunately I didn't end up choosing that path because 16 hours ago someone did it first so I cant do it any more for my project. What a coincidence men. By the way now I'm working on a big table that follows the tensegrity principles I it's turning out pretty cool , so I hope the same coincidence doesn't happen again. This ended up being a really long comment. I've been watching your videos for years now and I still love them as much as the first day.
@@invitrace9185 for a 3d printer, you should look into adding a concrete slab under the printer, see the TH-cam channel CNC kitchen for that video and explainer
Super cool build. I have seen so many tensegrity wobbly builds, this is a proper table that you can put coffee on without having to suffer continuous anxiety.
Great project, for better stability I think you should set a wooden table on the structure with some weight and then, once the rope is under the maximum tension, tighten the screws. By doing this way you maybe could have managed to use also the other structures
It would make a good chair probably. Something you can gently bounce in while you think, like a full body fidget. I do that all the time in my computer chair, but I'm light so it's really hard to push down... lol
Didn't see it amongst the comments, put marks on the string where one side of the leg should be, then you can tighten the string as you pull it through the leg and all the legs have exactly the same distance from each other. 🙂 Great build and awesome content as usual!
hey I think someone might have told you this already, but the wooden chips sucks up all the oil from the lathe sliding parts, so make sure to keep it well lubed and clean after use! Another awesome project Alex, love your work!
nice design and well done, for and all out anti-tensegrity table. Every member is in contact with all other members. That explains that slight smile while he was doing this.
While I always enjoy each of Alexandre's builds, this one actually makes me happy! Why? Because, with some simplifications, it is well within BOTH my skillset and my tool set. The first simplification, as I have no lathe, would be to buy hardwood round stock. Next, the top and bottom 3D printed caps could screw flush to the ends or slip over them, eliminating the need for the shoulder. Just cut the stock to length, finish it, and add a few pilot holes on each end. Perhaps use a flared conical section the leg would insert into. So many possibilities! To simplify things further, as I have neither long drill bits nor the ability to drill deep centered holes, would be to replace the locking brass inserts with carriage bolts through the legs (using a 3D printed drill guide) and eyelet nuts, with the eyelet on the inside. Wrap the wire multiple times around each eyelet for some friction to get the right final geometry. Fiddly to adjust, but it should be doable. If getting the bolts right becomes a problem, even simpler would be to use split-ring pipe hangers with eyebolts. Again, many possibilities. The thing is, by changing only the wire length, the same legs may be used for a low coffee table and also for taller matching end-tables with a smaller diameter top. Such versatility! Would need to verify the end-table stability. Yes, this looks to be totally doable, even by me. I'm very happy!
I feel like one aspect of your builds that is missing in each video is some idea of how long it takes. It would be nice if in the description or somewhere you put roughly how much time you spent building whatever it is you're making in the videos. I really enjoy watching what you make, but it always feels like it only takes you one or two days, due to how its edited.
It would also be nice to provide the time length of the initial design phase. I am sure he spent some time figuring out the dimensions of the legs and the cables. Build iterations are inevitable but that initial design phase isn't instantaneous.
Did you print the caps in PLA? you could have used TPU and avoid using the extra insert for keeping the glass in place. Nevertheless, really well done. I loved the way you hold the metal wired in place.
It may seem like a small detail, but the way you measured your brass to part it off on the lathe is fricken smart man. I'll be doing that from here on out, thanks! Great project as always! Keep it up!
Very nice design, defently has a place in a modern living room. Btw since the legs are touching, you could ditch the wires all together by putting the brass parts where the legs are touching and screwing them together. After covering the hole you could end up with the clean design of the thumbnail.
Dude! your videos are really awesome. I discovered you a few weeks back and its always entertaining to actually watch your videos from every point of view. the sound, video editing etc. And I will definitely at some point try and build sound panels. need them. I always learn something new as well. Keep it up!
As always, a pretty nice project! I think it should also be possible to drill holes at the points where the legs touch, put screws through and then seal everything with small wood plugs. I think it would look even better, because it would be hard to see the plugs, and of course there is no wire
Very cool! I think there's a way to build a similar structure without the legs contacting one another. The way to do it is by having four cables coming from each brass sleeve (2 per side) rather than 2 (1 per side), and running in opposite directions--one to the leg forward, and the other cable to the leg aft.
Would be really nice to lathe out a filleted taper towards the centre of each of the legs, so that the points where they are most likely to touch has more space. You probably wouldn't want to stand on it after that, but it'd highlight the gravity-defying techniques used, and hero the engineering a little more. Something that you should be able to do if/when you receive the new wire connector and have to disassemble. Would be good to see you revisit later on!
now that you have pinned the cables in place, I think some of those other forms would actually be a lot more stable. the thing with them before was that the "legs" could move in two directions - but now that they're pinned, they can only move in one direction. the steel cable fixes them in place when it is tensioned, and with little "spring" they aren't really going to do much. It's no longer a slipping/sliding joint.
Hello Alex, Thanks for another thought provoking & enjoyable film! I had a couple of ideas after seeing the film : 1: The legs look a tad like matches ! ...so: instead of turning them down to round, you could, in fact just use a router to take the sharp corners off and then print out red coloured top knobs...and bingo : you have a "five giant match table" instead! Smarmy ! :-) Thought 2 : : I wish I had a 3D printer too! ( and knew haw to use it !!! ;-) regards, Patrick
As was said below, the bounce of your first two prototypes is down to the stretch of the cord you used. Using wire rope tensioned with turnbuckles should remove the bounce.
Awesome project! I've made that exact same sound when I finally see my project go from CAD to sitting in front of me, haha. Because the end caps beneath the glass are already black plastic, it would be a nice touch to model TPU inserts for them to replace the clear adhesive pads!
I really liked this project. Since you have the screws down the legs to hold the wires in place couldn't you have just crossed the wires in 1 of the legs and then lock it into place so you didn't have to have the crimps visible?
Really cool stuff. You probably already know, but the flex it your prototypes could be reduced quite a lot with an aspect ratio change. If it was a little more slender then the max tension in your ties would be reduced and taken in compression through the dowels instead. The final flex could be managed by using a less elastic material for the tension ties and dialing in their prestress until you have something rigid and stable!
Hey Alexandre! Just got the idea that it would be awsome if you build a insect hotel/ bumblebee hive/ birdhouse. Spring is comming and we need to help our little friends to find a home in urban areas :) I know that it is not that hard but you can motivate so many people to do the same thing in their area. Please consider. Also I think you can bring some great ideas using 3D printing, as always. Stay safe :)
you could replace the round glass shape with a hexagonal one or a pentagon and use two pieces of glass, one mirror, one 2way mirror and some LEDs to make the top into an infinity mirror, that would work great combined with the tensegrity effect of the table, a small powerbox with electronics below the mirror part and thats it.
Hello Alexandre. Nice piece of work. Congratulations... Just wondering why you didn't use the lathe to make the locking screw hole 🤔. Was it because the part was already finished?
That slot in the threaded insert is for cutting threads. Flip it around and screw a threaded rod into it, then lock it into place with a nut. Then drive it in with a drill.
Hey Alexandre! You might already know this but another way to find the center of any part on the mill is to take the bit and put it flush on your part (like you did) but this time set it to 0. Then put the bit flush on the opposite side of the part. Now press the function "1/2" and then "Y". This way if you do not know the size of your bit and/or part you can find the exact center of the part 100% of the time. Once you have completed the function return the bit to 0 and you have found the center of your part. This also works if you hate/don't trust yourself to do math in your head (like me).
I love those connectors better than the seamless connections you would have made with the tool because it shows the compromises we have to make to something work. I love minimalist things but those little "defects" gives more character to things.
There is some crazy strong nylon cord. You could definitely make it strong enough with that and get the hover illusion even better. Also, you could hide the cord joints inside the legs.
I've been wondering if there's a way to use a sort of tool mount for a woodworking lathe like metal lathes have. Just for safety. I feel like a workpiece spinning at high rpms towards my body that could easily throw a sharp tool at me isn't very safe. Now I realize I can just buy a metal lathe. 😀👍
metal lathe are stupid dangerous, just below shapers in the category of "it will kill you without warning". You have to double check everything every time you do an adjustment. I have a small Taig lathe and while it is a fun tool, it is annoying compared to a wood lathe which is more "free style" with tool in hand.
@@ilikewaffles3689 Yes. Dont use a shaper without proper training. I was under the impression that they were like a bigger router table (and they are), but the fact that the cutter (not called bits anymore ;-) ) are so much heavier means that there is no way you can muscle out of it. The danger is metal lathe is that if you dont lock all the levers/nuts, pieces can move and the workpiece can catch on something, blow up and end up in your face/body. I am super scared of a metal lathe, just have to be a robot and methodic. But I am still scared of shapers and I am not planning on getting one ;-0
I think all you have to do to make it more sturdy is by adding tension. so tightening up the string/cord/rope which would be best to make it so you can tighten each part independently.
hi ! why did you choose the drill press insead of the lathe to drill the long holes in the legs ? seems like a complication but maybe there's a reason ?
one option that would have been interesting to add in the brass tubes would be to freeze them before putting them in place, since metal contracts when its cold once they warmed up they would form a super tight fit. although usually when i see people doing that its in metal working
Springiness of previous designs could be credited to the strings and reduced with cables that had less give.
So they could work with the right materials and tensioning.
That's what I thought too - that thin rope was likely to be quite stretchy.
Same thought!
Exactly! He should build the cool non-touching one using cable. If the legs themselves don't bend and the cable doesn't stretch it should work.
They still wobble, I’ve seen them made of steel cable and chain as well.
@@ItsRenderInnit Bummer! I wonder what gives?
Pretty sure that once the dowels are touching, it's no longer tensegrity. In particular, the dowels are now bending members. Not to say the design isn't cool - it definitely is; I think it's just more appropriately classified as a reciprocal frame than tensegrity.
True. This is clickbait.
I mean look at the thumbnail, he edited out the wires
I don't think it's "clickbait" per se. I think the structure is simply mis-classified. Click bait would be: "You won't BELIEVE how this ONE WEIRD TRICK made Tensegrity Table ACTUALLY WORK!"
I suspect that if @Alexandre Chappel had put the brass channels closer to the ends of the wooden members, he would have been able to keep the wood legs separated for a true integrity table.
I did my master thesis on tensegrity and sir, you are correct !
Furthermore, the glass is a rigid object joining other rigid object so even if the dowels were separated, still not complete tensegrity :)
Still nice table !
I've been working in a school project for about a month now, and you may not believe it but one of my proposals was this exact table but just with 3 legs. Fortunately I didn't end up choosing that path because 16 hours ago someone did it first so I cant do it any more for my project. What a coincidence men.
By the way now I'm working on a big table that follows the tensegrity principles I it's turning out pretty cool , so I hope the same coincidence doesn't happen again.
This ended up being a really long comment.
I've been watching your videos for years now and I still love them as much as the first day.
This original structure will probably make a cool chair leg. I'll love a springy chair haha
Definitely agreed on some sort of chair variation, I think a springy chair would be really comfy to sit in!
Honestly I'm making one for my 3D printer - springy means the sound from the printer wont piss off my downstairs neighbors as much
@@invitrace9185 for a 3d printer, you should look into adding a concrete slab under the printer, see the TH-cam channel CNC kitchen for that video and explainer
That's a great idea!
@@lazarjovic9948 why?
excellent project Alex! 👏😎
Yoo marsgizmo! Only 3k left to 1 mill
Shut up marsgizmo ,your name sucks and your creativity sucks too !!!
@@kostasdrakakis8386 ikr
Stfu mars
Super cool build. I have seen so many tensegrity wobbly builds, this is a proper table that you can put coffee on without having to suffer continuous anxiety.
Great project, for better stability I think you should set a wooden table on the structure with some weight and then, once the rope is under the maximum tension, tighten the screws. By doing this way you maybe could have managed to use also the other structures
The 3-legged-stringy-springy-table would have been cool.
And considering that wires would not stretch as much as the string, it could have been a lot sturdier than we think.
It would make a good chair probably. Something you can gently bounce in while you think, like a full body fidget. I do that all the time in my computer chair, but I'm light so it's really hard to push down... lol
Seen it attempted but it wobbled like crazy, i think it was Kazmoses that did it.
Didn't see it amongst the comments, put marks on the string where one side of the leg should be, then you can tighten the string as you pull it through the leg and all the legs have exactly the same distance from each other. 🙂 Great build and awesome content as usual!
hey I think someone might have told you this already, but the wooden chips sucks up all the oil from the lathe sliding parts, so make sure to keep it well lubed and clean after use! Another awesome project Alex, love your work!
I absolutely love the noise you make, eg at 13:53. So much happiness and excitement at a project coming together!
18:03 is better
nice design and well done, for and all out anti-tensegrity table. Every member is in contact with all other members. That explains that slight smile while he was doing this.
I LOVE the fact that you also watch James Bruton!
one of the most underrated creative channels on youtube. just does his thing and loves what he does.
I LIKED THAT TO THE ROBOT DOG IS CLASS
That is the cleverest thing i've seen made on this channel. Bravo
While I always enjoy each of Alexandre's builds, this one actually makes me happy! Why? Because, with some simplifications, it is well within BOTH my skillset and my tool set.
The first simplification, as I have no lathe, would be to buy hardwood round stock. Next, the top and bottom 3D printed caps could screw flush to the ends or slip over them, eliminating the need for the shoulder. Just cut the stock to length, finish it, and add a few pilot holes on each end. Perhaps use a flared conical section the leg would insert into. So many possibilities!
To simplify things further, as I have neither long drill bits nor the ability to drill deep centered holes, would be to replace the locking brass inserts with carriage bolts through the legs (using a 3D printed drill guide) and eyelet nuts, with the eyelet on the inside. Wrap the wire multiple times around each eyelet for some friction to get the right final geometry. Fiddly to adjust, but it should be doable. If getting the bolts right becomes a problem, even simpler would be to use split-ring pipe hangers with eyebolts. Again, many possibilities.
The thing is, by changing only the wire length, the same legs may be used for a low coffee table and also for taller matching end-tables with a smaller diameter top. Such versatility! Would need to verify the end-table stability.
Yes, this looks to be totally doable, even by me. I'm very happy!
Way cooler than expected, especially with the glass top, helps you actually see the illusion
I feel like one aspect of your builds that is missing in each video is some idea of how long it takes. It would be nice if in the description or somewhere you put roughly how much time you spent building whatever it is you're making in the videos. I really enjoy watching what you make, but it always feels like it only takes you one or two days, due to how its edited.
Wholeheartedly agree
Haven't thought of that before, but I absolutely agree
It would also be nice to provide the time length of the initial design phase. I am sure he spent some time figuring out the dimensions of the legs and the cables. Build iterations are inevitable but that initial design phase isn't instantaneous.
Yeah there is a slight illusion, I would bet from design phase to completion...1-2 weeks.
I really like the way you present your ideas with the immediate showing of a prototype! That makes a huge difference! Well done
Did you print the caps in PLA? you could have used TPU and avoid using the extra insert for keeping the glass in place. Nevertheless, really well done. I loved the way you hold the metal wired in place.
He got a of pla not long ago from a sponsor so I bet pla
It may seem like a small detail, but the way you measured your brass to part it off on the lathe is fricken smart man. I'll be doing that from here on out, thanks!
Great project as always! Keep it up!
Every time I watch your video makes me feel amazed and also have a nice mood !!! Love your project and laugh !!!
The amount of work done... Mind blown.
Very nice design, defently has a place in a modern living room. Btw since the legs are touching, you could ditch the wires all together by putting the brass parts where the legs are touching and screwing them together. After covering the hole you could end up with the clean design of the thumbnail.
Probably my favorite project of yours so far
Nice concept. In a future version, you could create two locking screws in one leg so you can have the wire ends connecting inside a leg
You're designing process is so inspiring and the results are awesome! Well done!
That’s a very cool design. I’m wondering if you put dowels where the wood touch would it be able to stand without the wires?
Dude! your videos are really awesome. I discovered you a few weeks back and its always entertaining to actually watch your videos from every point of view. the sound, video editing etc. And I will definitely at some point try and build sound panels. need them. I always learn something new as well. Keep it up!
This is amazing. Very well thought out. I love how you seamlessly mix materials like wood and 3D printing. Very inspiring.
As always, a pretty nice project! I think it should also be possible to drill holes at the points where the legs touch, put screws through and then seal everything with small wood plugs. I think it would look even better, because it would be hard to see the plugs, and of course there is no wire
thts the level of surety i want in life, love watching you make and print stuff
Very cool! I think there's a way to build a similar structure without the legs contacting one another. The way to do it is by having four cables coming from each brass sleeve (2 per side) rather than 2 (1 per side), and running in opposite directions--one to the leg forward, and the other cable to the leg aft.
Would be really nice to lathe out a filleted taper towards the centre of each of the legs, so that the points where they are most likely to touch has more space. You probably wouldn't want to stand on it after that, but it'd highlight the gravity-defying techniques used, and hero the engineering a little more. Something that you should be able to do if/when you receive the new wire connector and have to disassemble. Would be good to see you revisit later on!
now that you have pinned the cables in place, I think some of those other forms would actually be a lot more stable. the thing with them before was that the "legs" could move in two directions - but now that they're pinned, they can only move in one direction. the steel cable fixes them in place when it is tensioned, and with little "spring" they aren't really going to do much. It's no longer a slipping/sliding joint.
I made one of these with welded box tube and chains; super sturdy but still very wobbly!
Hello Alex, Thanks for another thought provoking & enjoyable film! I had a couple of ideas after seeing the film : 1: The legs look a tad like matches ! ...so: instead of turning them down to round, you could, in fact just use a router to take the sharp corners off and then print out red coloured top knobs...and bingo : you have a "five giant match table" instead! Smarmy ! :-)
Thought 2 : : I wish I had a 3D printer too! ( and knew haw to use it !!! ;-) regards, Patrick
Love the design Alex! I wonder if you could add a mother to "roll up" the wire and that would make the table change height! Keep up the great work.
As was said below, the bounce of your first two prototypes is down to the stretch of the cord you used. Using wire rope tensioned with turnbuckles should remove the bounce.
if you glue/weld threads on the end of your cables you can screw it into into the brass sleeves making the connection point hidden.
brilliant....also love your Bridgeport milling machine.....big respect from Mauritius
Awesome project! I've made that exact same sound when I finally see my project go from CAD to sitting in front of me, haha. Because the end caps beneath the glass are already black plastic, it would be a nice touch to model TPU inserts for them to replace the clear adhesive pads!
That's just beautiful right there!!! If you put it on your webshop, I'll buy one!
This is the best thing you have made - I would buy it if it was sold in stores (dont have a workshop or the skills to make it)
Good Job
Anyone else became fan after the camera rig video!
Really nice project Alex! From Brazil 🇧🇷
What a fantastic design! Thanks Alexandre! Now I need to make a coffee table. :)
You're such a skilled person -- congratulations Alex! Amazing work!
Awesome use of metal lathe and BP. Love the brass pins
super cool project. Have you thought about using fishing line instead of a steel wire?
I really liked this project. Since you have the screws down the legs to hold the wires in place couldn't you have just crossed the wires in 1 of the legs and then lock it into place so you didn't have to have the crimps visible?
Really cool stuff. You probably already know, but the flex it your prototypes could be reduced quite a lot with an aspect ratio change. If it was a little more slender then the max tension in your ties would be reduced and taken in compression through the dowels instead. The final flex could be managed by using a less elastic material for the tension ties and dialing in their prestress until you have something rigid and stable!
Alexandre, you are a madman! I’ll never build it, but loved watching it!!!
Hey Alexandre! Just got the idea that it would be awsome if you build a insect hotel/ bumblebee hive/ birdhouse. Spring is comming and we need to help our little friends to find a home in urban areas :) I know that it is not that hard but you can motivate so many people to do the same thing in their area. Please consider. Also I think you can bring some great ideas using 3D printing, as always. Stay safe :)
insane craftsmanship
you could replace the round glass shape with a hexagonal one or a pentagon and use two pieces of glass, one mirror, one 2way mirror and some LEDs to make the top into an infinity mirror, that would work great combined with the tensegrity effect of the table, a small powerbox with electronics below the mirror part and thats it.
Hello Alexandre.
Nice piece of work. Congratulations... Just wondering why you didn't use the lathe to make the locking screw hole 🤔.
Was it because the part was already finished?
this would be an amazing type of camping table since it collapse so easily! Good Job ALEX! awesome skills as always!
Don't care if it's tensigrity or not, that design looks awesome!
Alex, you have your favorite 3D printer, but do you have recommendations for a beginner one?
That slot in the threaded insert is for cutting threads. Flip it around and screw a threaded rod into it, then lock it into place with a nut. Then drive it in with a drill.
You make these things look easy... that's how good you are, thanks!
Another amazing video. Love the precision that goes into your projects and your enthusiasm.
Really cool concept and iteration!
Amazing Project! You should build an enclosure for the lathe so its easy clean up!
The top ends should have been red so they look like big matchsticks! :) Cool stuff! Thanks for the video and idea!
Hey Alexandre! You might already know this but another way to find the center of any part on the mill is to take the bit and put it flush on your part (like you did) but this time set it to 0. Then put the bit flush on the opposite side of the part. Now press the function "1/2" and then "Y". This way if you do not know the size of your bit and/or part you can find the exact center of the part 100% of the time. Once you have completed the function return the bit to 0 and you have found the center of your part. This also works if you hate/don't trust yourself to do math in your head (like me).
You are such an amazing person, i cant get bored of your videos 😍😍😍😍
I love those connectors better than the seamless connections you would have made with the tool because it shows the compromises we have to make to something work. I love minimalist things but those little "defects" gives more character to things.
There is some crazy strong nylon cord. You could definitely make it strong enough with that and get the hover illusion even better. Also, you could hide the cord joints inside the legs.
@UC5i3jbJZt4dqGjAV7iavJ-A Yes it is. I’m talking about replacing it with a nylon cord.
I've been wondering if there's a way to use a sort of tool mount for a woodworking lathe like metal lathes have. Just for safety. I feel like a workpiece spinning at high rpms towards my body that could easily throw a sharp tool at me isn't very safe. Now I realize I can just buy a metal lathe. 😀👍
metal lathe are stupid dangerous, just below shapers in the category of "it will kill you without warning". You have to double check everything every time you do an adjustment. I have a small Taig lathe and while it is a fun tool, it is annoying compared to a wood lathe which is more "free style" with tool in hand.
@@AlainPilon Hadn't heard that before. Thanks for your input.
@@ilikewaffles3689 Yes. Dont use a shaper without proper training. I was under the impression that they were like a bigger router table (and they are), but the fact that the cutter (not called bits anymore ;-) ) are so much heavier means that there is no way you can muscle out of it. The danger is metal lathe is that if you dont lock all the levers/nuts, pieces can move and the workpiece can catch on something, blow up and end up in your face/body. I am super scared of a metal lathe, just have to be a robot and methodic. But I am still scared of shapers and I am not planning on getting one ;-0
Is the springiness from the rope? if so, having less springy rope could eliminate springiness
I actually like it a lot more with the black top more than the glass, feels like it brings it together more with the end caps
I think all you have to do to make it more sturdy is by adding tension. so tightening up the string/cord/rope which would be best to make it so you can tighten each part independently.
12:51 what's there in the background? is it liquid nitrogen/dry CO2?
Probably an air humidifier
@@ShadowVipers Agreed. Those look like two ultrasonic humidifier tanks.
hi ! why did you choose the drill press insead of the lathe to drill the long holes in the legs ? seems like a complication but maybe there's a reason ?
What if you slide the wire so that in one leg the screw that locks it in place is also the securing the two ends together inside the leg?
Looks great, I'd like to try it with clear acrylic rods and LED Filament Wire.
does that principle aplies even when the sticks touch ?
i hope the cable hold up long term but over all a pretty cool project. nice job!
Love you designs and how you incorporate so many different types of material in your builds!
Alexandre, why didn't you just chuck each of the legs in the lathe, and use the tail stock chuck to drill the axial bores for the locking screws?
awesome build all around!
Thanks man ✌️
you deserve so many more subs. thank you for your content
one option that would have been interesting to add in the brass tubes would be to freeze them before putting them in place, since metal contracts when its cold once they warmed up they would form a super tight fit. although usually when i see people doing that its in metal working
can we order that? then we will only provide the glass here locally, and whats the size of the circomference of the glass...
what is the smoke type machines in the background? are they a form of humidifier?
they look like a big vaporizer/humidifier to me
@@kathrynelrod5570 thats what i was thinking but what are they for? to add moisture to the air? surely you would want the opposite?
@@samueljenkins2684 If it is to add moisture to the air my guess would be to keep dust down
Humidity makes rooms more comfortable in colder months
yeah, they are just humidifiers. when it gets really cold here we have to use more heaters so the air gets super dry.
How did you know where to stop when drilling the wire stop hole?
Has the winner been announced yet for the printer?
This is a plan to hold the earth together. Good job! AC.
Now we need a project for the IKEA-coffee-table-base that came with the glass tabletop!
Thanks Alex i learnt 5 things i never knew i needed to know haha
Pretty fantastic work, Alexandre! 😃
Impressive little coffee table!
Stay safe there! 🖖😊
Do you cant lock the Wire in the brass tubes with the screw?
I'm from Brazil! I love your channel!
You honestly are a genius
You are an absolute genius!
Great video as always👍
Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us👍😀
Really awesome camera placement and editing in this one, man! The table is amazing too.
Wish I could have a workshop like yours. Great work!
Instead of crimping the wire together can you just use one the bolts in one of the legs to hold two ends of the wire together?
Nice job btw Alex!