Totally awesome build. Never stress about or underestimate pocket holes. I know lots of woodworkers frown on them or say they are "traditional joinery". Lots of antique furniture that is beautiful has pocket holes. They were just hidden better than they are now. I use them alot for their convenience and strength. Love you videos and would love to see a full lathe rebuild/restore one day.
Very nice looking but I think the controller table should have a small angle, not 90, and have a round over to not hurt your wrist/forearms. Also I would be worried about someone getting too much into the game and applying to much pressure on the controller table, since the screen section is acting as a stop, it will absorb all the impact and will eventually break.
Yes Yes I am in town and I’m just leaving now like a couple ouotouo osou for a little while I’m not there yet I have a few minutes I’ll get it done I have some of that work out I have a couple zombies
Small idea after seeing your video: you can make a fake frame with a retro poster with the plate that hides the electronics, even more surprise for those who will come in your workshop when you want to show it :D !
@@dustinm2364 Yes, I've thought about making and selling this and other things but the problem is that I live in South America so shipping to the USA would cost more than the product . Otherwise I would be selling things on etsy. I could sell these locally but they won't sell well because people here either can't afford it or have more important things to spend their money on like food and rent . So unless shipping becomes more affordable, or if the client is able and willing to pay for the high shipping prices, I'm out of luck. Ideally, it would be awesome to find someone to fund me to make a container full of these, ship them to an Amazon warehouse and you could just order them straight off of Amazon with free two day shipping to your door. Since shipping these in bulk would help reduce the shipping costs significantly .
Okay folks - if you are in Australia, 18mm plywood is more common. The best way to tackle this is to make the side frames measure 210mmx598mm and the top frame 210x574m. The setout dimensions for hinge holes etc will need to change. All other dimensions can stay the same. Haven't built it yet, but did sketch it out in 3D to check the impact of changing to 18mm thick ply. Hope it helps! Glad I could support this awesome project by buying the plans!
I have the same feeling that the hinges won't hold, even with metal rods. The traction is too big here. When I'm thinking of how we used to beat up these buttons when we were kids...
Great designing as well aesthetically as functionally. This is exactly why I subcribed to your channel. Not to talk about your cable management skills. I definitely can apply some of your ideas in my next projects in the future. Thank you for making these videos.
Nice job, looks really good. I have a concern, heat. There is no ventilation for any of the electronics. The monitor creates heat, and so does the electronics for the RPi. May not be an issue for short use, but if you have a party, it could get hours of use. There are links to how to help with heat on the RPi (heat sinks, etc). Just my thoughts.
i am just in love with this guy. just seeing that he has uploaded today made my day. now watching the video with a big smile on my face. i found my perfect youtuber
I'd be concerned about that hotglue being enough to keep the monitor from falling out internally. Wouldn't it make sense to add some screwed-in angle brackets behind it for some extra support?
Man, I can't tell you how happy I am to see your work, the amount of detail, precision, and thought that is in your projects is mind blowing. Keep up the amazing work!
That actually looks quite nice. The 3D printed panel you did for the power cable and other connections looked impeccable. And the whole unit is not only solid but also incredibly slim. Congrats!
Some great ghetto shop skillz- lighter for shrink tube vs heat gun and lots of hot glue and superglue vs fancy fasteners. Clean job with wiring and parts layout. Maybe add a hydraulic/gas arm or other device so controller deck can't freefall down when released from vertical. ALso maybe add a flip out kickstand(s) for floor or wall support of control deck for those who might lean too hard on it while playing All in all one of the most original, problem solving DIY arcade builds I've seen yet. Many of us want machine(s) but don't want too many huge cabinets to maintain/lug around, plus WAF
Awesome build! For the locking mechanism: you can 3D print a knob, pause mid print and insert a bolt. This way you can get 3d printed parts with metal bolts inside :) just make sure to add a support structure underneath that allows the bolt to be inserted or use z hopping to print around it :) (and use a hex screw of course) I did this with nuts to make my own knobs that are easy to turn with your hands, look great and have text on them :-)
Here I was thinking about how I could build a cheap spring release for a project - I take a break to watch this video and boom - a great design near the end. Thanks for the inspiration!
You could easily modify this to a single monitor setup to work from home. For people with less space in their flat/home... There could also be a camera hole on the top and also some lighting for good quality video calls. And maybe some speakers left and right and a stand for a laptop which can be attached via usb-c?! #pandemic #workfromhome 😉 Awesome wirk btw 😉 Keep up the spirit
And yes those buttons with microswitches in the button is so much better quality in. Built some mysels and i use those buttons for light switches in the house with RGB leds inside to show status of the lights :D
That dowel that is functioning as a hinge, it is not meant to take a shear load like that, especially if you're resting your forearms on it. Furthermore, as you open-and-close it, the dowels will quickly wear out. And good job on that wire loom, it's very tidy!
Nice build! A few thoughts: 1. Add a couple of recessed buttons on each side near the front and one one the front-right for pinball machine emulation. 2. Drill out the hole for the catch a little larger and insert a small piece of (flared, preferably) copper tubing. That will prevent the brass pin from wearing out the wood. 3. Add a handle near one edge of the (closed) front to both make it look more like an cabinet and give you something to hang onto when removing it. (To protect that last corner. :grin: )
Good suggestion. Honestly 2 small 40mm Noctua fans would be good for the entire electronics section. Silent and all that stuff needs is just a tiny bit of air flow. All my Pi cases have 20mm fans on them with heat sinks.
Two adjustments I'd make: 1: Have the door portion open a bit more, so it's at a bit of an angle. Maybe give it 20 more degrees? 2: Reposition the buttons to match an actual arcade machine's button layout, as it's more ergonomic. and I suppose 3: Add a marque screen. above the main screen.
Genius idea! I've been wanting an arcade cabinet forever, but not the space nor the room to build one (tiny shop). I'll definitely be building my own take on this. Thanks for posting!
Very very cool! Would brass rods in the hinge pins make them stronger? How much force can that shelf with the push buttons hold...manly because I have kids and they will be somewhat over aggressive with them I am sure! Otherwise what an INCREDIBLE design and build and low profile! Great job!
Thanks for this btw I made one last year after getting your plans, I made a few slight modifications of which was a switch that tuns on the power as the cabinet opens! also did mine in all black with decals and added a volume knob in the middle by the controls
Love it! But would it not be better to use a metal rod instead of the dowel on the hinge? As you support your arms on it the wooden dowels might break?
Great build. Just a couple of nitpicks if you don't mind. 1. With this kind of build the controller dashboard is huge so its a bit too far from the screen. It would feel odd to me. 2. The sharp corner edges when open. I'd hate to bump into those. Still a great build. Super creative
In my setup: - Spring magnetic latches on top of the unit. Press to let go of the controls frame; press to connect back - Spring hinges (or other compression hinge) on the bottom to slow the descent of the controls frame so that it doesn't just drop. And of course, thank you for putting one of these together! I would not have made these suggestions if you had not put in all the hard work to making this a reality.
Superb idea and executed to perfection. I nominate myself as the winner of whatever it takes to become the proud new owner of that technological marvel.
You do not need to be a master carpenter. If you can't build a box, you'll have no success in carpentry, whatso ever. Building a box is literally the very first thing you must learn how to do. Fail at that and you will fail at everything else in carpentry.
That is amazing! Really nice! 2 things that occur to me: 1. How does the hinge (and the hinge stop) feel when it's open? That control panel gets abused as people are playing games. Does it seem tough enough? 2. How is it handling the heat, is the monitor and rasberry pi keeping cool enough with no ventilation? Thanks!
Dude, your sheer joy and energy while making always brings a smile to my face and brightens my day. This is an AWESOME project! I've seen a few other builds like this and am really enjoying this current trend in hidden arcade systems.
It looks awesome, but leaves a few questions. Monitors don't usually just come on with power, they require you to press the power button, but you did not move the control interface for the screen, so how do you turn on your monitor here?
I've wanted to build an arcade game for ages but I don't really have the space. This is exactly what I should have thought of! I love the challenges you gave yourself as it paid off in spades. Would you ever consider building speakers for something like this again? Like...some 4 or even three inch drivers with a little amp for them?
You can buy a Pandora box with a controller and hook it up to your tv when you want. It comes with 4000+ games. I have the Pandora box 3d and it's the same as an arcade but with the added bonus that you can bring it to friends houses and have an arcade night.
This is totally epic - I've been scared to even make my own shelf, nevermind something as beasty as this - but such a brilliant project! Is there a way that you can do something to show a keen but complete newbie to do basic skills, like which tools should be used for which jobs, and why...? It makes complete sense watching yours but I wouldn't know where to start! Thanks, great stuff.
Awesome video; I was thinking about either getting me or building an arcade for my TV room, and this is exactly what I need. Bought the plans, and already made the adjustments as 16mm plywood is not standard here (we get 15mm). Also, don't have the lamello biscuit machine, so I'll improvise. I do have a 3D printer willing to get used for the first time though ;) The only thing that concerns me is that I don't see any breathing holes that may help disipating heat. The Pi might get a bit hot, specially if you start adding more demanding games.
Nice work, I would find a way to make it half as thick when folded. This way it is not protruding much out of the wall. There are low profile arcade buttons that can shave off some thickness on the flipped down controller panel. The monitor can be designed to sit vertically upright, and only tilt when it is opened, this will shaved some thickness of the box as well. Add a strap to the bottom panel so you can use that to pull it out rather than the suction thing.
0:04 for some reason my brain ignored him saying "this video is sponsored by kiwi co." and it focused on his McCafe. Then I saw the TH-cam "includes paid promotion" and I went straight to "oh, this video is sponsored by McDonalds"
The sound of your components clicking into the 3d-printed panel was extremely satisfying.
Totally awesome build. Never stress about or underestimate pocket holes. I know lots of woodworkers frown on them or say they are "traditional joinery". Lots of antique furniture that is beautiful has pocket holes. They were just hidden better than they are now. I use them alot for their convenience and strength. Love you videos and would love to see a full lathe rebuild/restore one day.
Very nice looking but I think the controller table should have a small angle, not 90, and have a round over to not hurt your wrist/forearms. Also I would be worried about someone getting too much into the game and applying to much pressure on the controller table, since the screen section is acting as a stop, it will absorb all the impact and will eventually break.
I've been wanting to do this exact thing for a decade. Glad to see someone's doing it
Awesome. And yes I was wondering about the corners.
Me too. Nice that he didn't tried to hide it, but confessed us the truth about it :)
Me three!
@@janosnagyj.9540 VfL
Yes Yes I am in town and I’m just leaving now like a couple ouotouo osou for a little while I’m not there yet I have a few minutes I’ll get it done I have some of that work out I have a couple zombies
Some good DIY skills there manbun.
Small idea after seeing your video: you can make a fake frame with a retro poster with the plate that hides the electronics, even more surprise for those who will come in your workshop when you want to show it :D !
Dude... your projects, your video production, your energy while presenting. All’s always top notch! Keep going!
These would actually sell well. You should do a small production run.
You could do that too...just saying.
@@dustinm2364 Yes, I've thought about making and selling this and other things but the problem is that I live in South America so shipping to the USA would cost more than the product . Otherwise I would be selling things on etsy.
I could sell these locally but they won't sell well because people here either can't afford it or have more important things to spend their money on like food and rent .
So unless shipping becomes more affordable, or if the client is able and willing to pay for the high shipping prices, I'm out of luck.
Ideally, it would be awesome to find someone to fund me to make a container full of these, ship them to an Amazon warehouse and you could just order them straight off of Amazon with free two day shipping to your door. Since shipping these in bulk would help reduce the shipping costs significantly .
Okay folks - if you are in Australia, 18mm plywood is more common. The best way to tackle this is to make the side frames measure 210mmx598mm and the top frame 210x574m. The setout dimensions for hinge holes etc will need to change. All other dimensions can stay the same. Haven't built it yet, but did sketch it out in 3D to check the impact of changing to 18mm thick ply. Hope it helps! Glad I could support this awesome project by buying the plans!
Very very nice! True Scandinavian design! The hinges seem a bit fragile tho - maybe replace the wood dowels with metal rods?
I think they'll be fine(famous last words), In addition to the wooden dowel, there are also four screws on each side to hold everything in place.
I have the same feeling that the hinges won't hold, even with metal rods. The traction is too big here. When I'm thinking of how we used to beat up these buttons when we were kids...
@@achappel Would you sit on it to load-test the hinges? It seems everything else would take your weight!
The same leftover brass rod instead of dowel.
@@flymypg That might only be a good idea if he has screwed in the french cleats to the studs in that wall, as that wall is drywall
Love your enthousiasm, thats what makes you stand out of all the comparable channels for me.
Pixel perfect yet again. Liked the use of 3D printing to make the cable management
props to you for being honest about the corners. You could add a side-channel video where you show a repair.
I appreciate that you even cable managed your electronics. Now that’s attention to detail.
Pocket holes are really strong. Especially with glue. They've been used for generations. Great build.
for someone who does more with wood, your wiring is fantastic. Good job buddy.
Great designing as well aesthetically as functionally. This is exactly why I subcribed to your channel. Not to talk about your cable management skills. I definitely can apply some of your ideas in my next projects in the future.
Thank you for making these videos.
Nice job, looks really good. I have a concern, heat. There is no ventilation for any of the electronics. The monitor creates heat, and so does the electronics for the RPi. May not be an issue for short use, but if you have a party, it could get hours of use. There are links to how to help with heat on the RPi (heat sinks, etc). Just my thoughts.
i am just in love with this guy. just seeing that he has uploaded today made my day. now watching the video with a big smile on my face. i found my perfect youtuber
Beautiful. The only thing I would add is something That slows down the opening (so it don't hit you in the head)
the last front panel was supposed to be transparent to show the inside off in my opinion.
the cable setup is art
Modify the dowel rotation prints to consist of internal gears. That or buy some small gas compression "hinges".
@@cavemanvi But it's meant to be hidden.
Watched all ALCH videos... 3d printed parts are my fave!!! Hope you can see this
Stepping outside the normal script and mixing up some different skills. Haven't started this video yet but I can't wait to watch the whole thing.
I'd be concerned about that hotglue being enough to keep the monitor from falling out internally. Wouldn't it make sense to add some screwed-in angle brackets behind it for some extra support?
You’ll be surprised by how strong the hot glue actually is if glued properly 😂
@@LeeMooEez any adhesive is highly subjective to the environment. Humidity. Temperature. As well as the materials it’s bonding.
My son loves his kiwi co crates he gets so excited every month when he sees the box in the mail
Sir, you are genius
i hope one day i can meet you and play with you there at your workshop......lots of love from INDIA
"Those are my choices and i just have to live with that"
Alexandre Chappel
You should put a clock in the background during your time lapses, so we can tell how long these projects actually take.
Great video by the way
Man, I can't tell you how happy I am to see your work, the amount of detail, precision, and thought that is in your projects is mind blowing. Keep up the amazing work!
Amazing build if you are running retro pi on the raspberry pi you can remove the usb stick and the rooms will work just like normal.
That actually looks quite nice. The 3D printed panel you did for the power cable and other connections looked impeccable. And the whole unit is not only solid but also incredibly slim. Congrats!
Some great ghetto shop skillz- lighter for shrink tube vs heat gun and lots of hot glue and superglue vs fancy fasteners.
Clean job with wiring and parts layout.
Maybe add a hydraulic/gas arm or other device so controller deck can't freefall down when released from vertical.
ALso maybe add a flip out kickstand(s) for floor or wall support of control deck for those who might lean too hard on it while playing
All in all one of the most original, problem solving DIY arcade builds I've seen yet.
Many of us want machine(s) but don't want too many huge cabinets to maintain/lug around, plus WAF
Awesome build!
For the locking mechanism: you can 3D print a knob, pause mid print and insert a bolt. This way you can get 3d printed parts with metal bolts inside :) just make sure to add a support structure underneath that allows the bolt to be inserted or use z hopping to print around it :) (and use a hex screw of course)
I did this with nuts to make my own knobs that are easy to turn with your hands, look great and have text on them :-)
Thingiverse link?
Any thingiverse updates?
woooooo u are amazing! 🤯 Fantastic job 👌
That is beautiful!
the last front piece should be transparent its so nice inside.
Alexandre that last comment resonates with me so much. I always find a way to mess up a project at the very end.
Here I was thinking about how I could build a cheap spring release for a project - I take a break to watch this video and boom - a great design near the end. Thanks for the inspiration!
May I just say that your craftsmanship is impressive.
The wiring is so beautiful, I would have made the backing clear perspex so I would admire it on the wall!
You could easily modify this to a single monitor setup to work from home. For people with less space in their flat/home...
There could also be a camera hole on the top and also some lighting for good quality video calls. And maybe some speakers left and right and a stand for a laptop which can be attached via usb-c?!
#pandemic #workfromhome 😉
Awesome wirk btw 😉 Keep up the spirit
Love this project Alex! 👌😎 Excellent build!
I swear, this guy impresses me with every upload.
Outstanding. You are an artist! Even all your wiring is very neat, like a factory build. Thank you! Great fun! All good wishes.
These projects, the attention to detail, everything is just next level. Hats off, Sir.
That's so stylish!! I love the look of the monitor in the frame.
And yes those buttons with microswitches in the button is so much better quality in. Built some mysels and i use those buttons for light switches in the house with RGB leds inside to show status of the lights :D
That dowel that is functioning as a hinge, it is not meant to take a shear load like that, especially if you're resting your forearms on it. Furthermore, as you open-and-close it, the dowels will quickly wear out. And good job on that wire loom, it's very tidy!
Nice build! A few thoughts:
1. Add a couple of recessed buttons on each side near the front and one one the front-right for pinball machine emulation.
2. Drill out the hole for the catch a little larger and insert a small piece of (flared, preferably) copper tubing. That will prevent the brass pin from wearing out the wood.
3. Add a handle near one edge of the (closed) front to both make it look more like an cabinet and give you something to hang onto when removing it. (To protect that last corner. :grin: )
PUT A HEATSINK ON THE PI AND CONNECT A FAN! The new model overheats and that can be bad, like really bad.
Nah, it just throttles the CPU when overheating. A tiny fan is good though to avoid throttling.
Good suggestion. Honestly 2 small 40mm Noctua fans would be good for the entire electronics section. Silent and all that stuff needs is just a tiny bit of air flow. All my Pi cases have 20mm fans on them with heat sinks.
@@snoopyslr Yeah, heatsinks for the pi and quite noctua fans would be the least intrusive option
Also i saw an under voltage warning at the end, make sure it gets at least 5.1V and that the wires are thick enough to support 3A!
Two adjustments I'd make:
1: Have the door portion open a bit more, so it's at a bit of an angle. Maybe give it 20 more degrees?
2: Reposition the buttons to match an actual arcade machine's button layout, as it's more ergonomic.
and I suppose 3: Add a marque screen. above the main screen.
I would maybe advice some small heatsink on Raspberry. It may get quite hot especially in closed space like this
Genius idea! I've been wanting an arcade cabinet forever, but not the space nor the room to build one (tiny shop). I'll definitely be building my own take on this. Thanks for posting!
17:42 im no electrician or electronics geek but this looks amazing haha, so tidy and organized 10/10
Man, congratulations on your work!
Exceptional!!!!!
Very Satisfactory to see completed!
this is the coolest woodworking video i have seen in a long time!!
Very very cool! Would brass rods in the hinge pins make them stronger? How much force can that shelf with the push buttons hold...manly because I have kids and they will be somewhat over aggressive with them I am sure!
Otherwise what an INCREDIBLE design and build and low profile! Great job!
This is so slick. I have built several arcade machines, but never thought of a slick design like this. I'm definitely adding one to my house!!
Thanks for this btw I made one last year after getting your plans, I made a few slight modifications of which was a switch that tuns on the power as the cabinet opens! also did mine in all black with decals and added a volume knob in the middle by the controls
you are a gifted craftsman and a gifted showman. Respect,. Nice channel. Keep em comming
Think about making one of these for your garage, but it was basically a built in PC so that you can quickly lookup things. Like a terminal system
Love it! But would it not be better to use a metal rod instead of the dowel on the hinge? As you support your arms on it the wooden dowels might break?
Most excellent. You usually only see these as tabletop units. Nice option.
Great build. Just a couple of nitpicks if you don't mind.
1. With this kind of build the controller dashboard is huge so its a bit too far from the screen. It would feel odd to me.
2. The sharp corner edges when open. I'd hate to bump into those.
Still a great build. Super creative
In my setup:
- Spring magnetic latches on top of the unit. Press to let go of the controls frame; press to connect back
- Spring hinges (or other compression hinge) on the bottom to slow the descent of the controls frame so that it doesn't just drop.
And of course, thank you for putting one of these together! I would not have made these suggestions if you had not put in all the hard work to making this a reality.
Superb idea and executed to perfection.
I nominate myself as the winner of whatever it takes to become the proud new owner of that technological marvel.
I am glad I only had to be a master carpenter and not a newbie coder to make this :D
You do not need to be a master carpenter. If you can't build a box, you'll have no success in carpentry, whatso ever. Building a box is literally the very first thing you must learn how to do. Fail at that and you will fail at everything else in carpentry.
That is amazing! Really nice!
2 things that occur to me: 1. How does the hinge (and the hinge stop) feel when it's open? That control panel gets abused as people are playing games. Does it seem tough enough? 2. How is it handling the heat, is the monitor and rasberry pi keeping cool enough with no ventilation?
Thanks!
I think we need to add some fans, not for the monitor but for the raspberry
I think "AWESOME" would be the name of this project. I love when you give a Chinese touch on it 17:22 haha. Great job!
This is insane man, the fact that you can build so much just in your shop. The force is strong with this one.
Serious. I mean really serious, I like how normal it is for you to insert a 3D-printed funktional part in your projekt. Please never change that.
This is the most coolest thing you had made so far
How did I almost completely miss this video?!
Really glad it eventually got recommended to me regardless of not noticing it at first...
Awesome job!!! Like always ! Super clean build! And great edit . Is a pleasure watch your videos. Well done!!! You make it easy !
Dude, your sheer joy and energy while making always brings a smile to my face and brightens my day. This is an AWESOME project! I've seen a few other builds like this and am really enjoying this current trend in hidden arcade systems.
With all the negative things going on in the world, this put a smile on my face. Thanks 🙏
Really nice build! You could also use magnetic snappers for the removable front to make it a bit easier!
WOW this amazing and unique!!! Love it
This is a masterpiece of design and craftsmanship! Thank you for sharing this incredible build with us. Enjoy your games, Alexandre!
I never play arcade games, or even console games these days.
But now I really want to spend a bunch of money and make this.
Can always load up other emulator games. Just a matter of what functions the buttons should have, really.
I had more fun building my arcades than I do playing with them.
Awesome build. Great precision work there!
Maybe a hidden spring/gas strut could work to dampen the opening speed.
Every time you amaze me more! Top video! Rob
You covered everything flawlessly
It looks awesome, but leaves a few questions. Monitors don't usually just come on with power, they require you to press the power button, but you did not move the control interface for the screen, so how do you turn on your monitor here?
Excellent work! Now I need to find an available wall and convince my wife that we need this!
Best channel ever! Wish I had a 3D printer though so I could make some of these awesome projects.
That one is just amazing... The work you put in there gorgeous
I've wanted to build an arcade game for ages but I don't really have the space.
This is exactly what I should have thought of! I love the challenges you gave yourself as it paid off in spades.
Would you ever consider building speakers for something like this again? Like...some 4 or even three inch drivers with a little amp for them?
You can buy a Pandora box with a controller and hook it up to your tv when you want. It comes with 4000+ games. I have the Pandora box 3d and it's the same as an arcade but with the added bonus that you can bring it to friends houses and have an arcade night.
@@ahhpeixepeixepeixe Thank you!
I wonder if you could put a couple of springs on the bottom that allow the lid to fall controlled instead of it just plopping down.
Cool stuff as usual man keep up the good work
I would put hidden gas lift arms on the swing out controller panels so it can slowly flip out. Great work!
Fantastic build!!! Wonderful job on the wiring and organization as well. Thank you for this awesome project!
This is totally epic - I've been scared to even make my own shelf, nevermind something as beasty as this - but such a brilliant project! Is there a way that you can do something to show a keen but complete newbie to do basic skills, like which tools should be used for which jobs, and why...? It makes complete sense watching yours but I wouldn't know where to start! Thanks, great stuff.
Wondering if it holds up when being leaned on? Possibly building from your awesome design soon!
Awesome video; I was thinking about either getting me or building an arcade for my TV room, and this is exactly what I need.
Bought the plans, and already made the adjustments as 16mm plywood is not standard here (we get 15mm). Also, don't have the lamello biscuit machine, so I'll improvise. I do have a 3D printer willing to get used for the first time though ;)
The only thing that concerns me is that I don't see any breathing holes that may help disipating heat. The Pi might get a bit hot, specially if you start adding more demanding games.
You did such a neat job with the cable management you should fit an acrylic back to show it off
This is really super awesome and I really want to build one for my kids and myself, so cool!!
Will build this!
Also would like one with the screen vertical for old arcade games.
Bro! That is soooo clean. You are on a whole other level.
Nice work, I would find a way to make it half as thick when folded. This way it is not protruding much out of the wall. There are low profile arcade buttons that can shave off some thickness on the flipped down controller panel. The monitor can be designed to sit vertically upright, and only tilt when it is opened, this will shaved some thickness of the box as well. Add a strap to the bottom panel so you can use that to pull it out rather than the suction thing.
0:04 for some reason my brain ignored him saying "this video is sponsored by kiwi co." and it focused on his McCafe. Then I saw the TH-cam "includes paid promotion" and I went straight to "oh, this video is sponsored by McDonalds"
that McCafe is lowkey promo..
RIGHT!? 🤣🤣
he drank it like someone had just turned the camera on without him knowing
Nice Project. My Kids want it🙈👍