96-2000 Honda CR-V Reliability And Common Problems
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
- 96-2000 Honda CR-V Reliability And Common Problems
In this video i show all the reliability problems on the honda CR-V and show where everything is located , and how to fix the issues. For Business Contact :
Nathan's Porsche Workshop
Po Box 115 Altenburg Mo 63732
nathan.youtube@yahoo.com
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1998 crv and i live in dessert and a lot of hard roads , amazing 4x4 vehicle , 607,723 miles and still amazing
No way
That’s nothing. I’m over a million now and drive in Minnesota winters. The body is completely gone from road salt but it still runs as good as new. Only changed the oil for the first time last year. I hope to get another million miles on it. I even named my CRV Chuck Norris.
@@luciusandrellius9817 You drove a million miles on one change of oil?
Cool story
My brother hasone with over 250 k and still looks good..
That’s crazy bro ! Honda’s are reliable but that sounds like Toyota reliability and then some 😂
1998 Honda CR-V 567,889 miles original engine and transmission I love my baby
"EDIT”
Now I have 601,519 miles on her still no problems god i love Honda
manual or at?
Shaina Suico manual transmission
You ever have to replace the oil dipstick tube? I’m doing that now cuz it came out with the dipstick the other day. Happened a few years ago too, guys at the oil change place put it back in but put an o-ring/gasket, thing was soaked with oil.
been trying to find a manual to buy, i dont know how reliable the auto is
@@michaeldaude6374, the 4-speed automatic is probably one of the best transmissions Honda has ever made, so in that respect, it shouldn't matter that much.
One of the best damn vehicles ever created in the history of automobiles. period.
1999 CRV here. 175k miles
RayneOfLyte888 I'm jealous, a 99 crv would've been my ideal first car. Is yours manual or auto? 4wd or no?
I'm from Europe wanna buy one but im coming from a 1.6 Tdi diesel who has been extremely reliable and doesn't spend much on fuel what stuff should i look on a 1999.. Honda and does it spend alot on fuel on traffic/city driving short trips i do mostly.
I’ve gotta ‘99 with 245k
Im getting one from my brother its getting a new b series engine next week its a 4wd auto and it drives great just is having engine troubles at the moment
RayneOfLyte888 it really is, I have a 2001 CR-V EX AWD b20b engine with 342,000+ miles on it. engine has never been opened other than the valve cover. onyl thing changed is struts, spark plugs, wires, and 3 of 4 cv axels. Trans is acting like its on its way out. been like that for a year and just keeps going.
Everyone with a crv please stop telling how great they are they are to hard to find as is
love mine just wish it were 5 speed
Same on the 5spd
in my city its the most common car i see... first gen, second gen, brand new... there are freaking everywhere but barely any for sale! good thing i lucked out and bought one before i even knew how awesome they are
Love mine 99. With 184k lowered on TL wheels 5speed manual tranny
Just bought a 99 5-sp with 124000 miles for $1500. Looking forward to seeing what she will do.
I live in Mexico and have a ''97 CRV, I can't pull into a gas station without someone asking me if I want to sell it.
Bought one and I’m restoring it. My god the more I fix the better it gets. SHAME ON PAST OWNERS FOR NOT CARING. anyways yea I’m falling in love
2000 crv 450,000 miles and still going strong.
Dang
No way
show proof.
No way!!
Same engine??? Is it manual or automatic?
1998 CRV here...291,000 miles. I sometimes pet it like a dog...
Same I'm about there in my 97
dash clock never works ever either lol
There are some tutorials online for fixing these, usually have to resolder, pretty easy.
Lol I bang my dashboard to make em work
You can just turn up the clock brightness, on my 2001 CR-V the is a little wheel for it. Unless it’s actually broken.
Buy yourself a watch, problem solved!
It's a broken solder, take it apart and if you know how-to solder you can easily fix it. You'll see right away where the solder fell off on the board of the clock. I fixed mine that way, there is a video on youtube on how to fix it.
I'm amazed that nothing was mentioned about checking/adjusting the valves every 30-40K miles. That should be #1 on the list and anyone who has owned a '97-'01('96-'00 isn't the correct era) should be made full aware of it since too many people have bought one unaware of the problem and several weeks later the CEL comes on and they discover they have one or two burnt valves. I bought my '98 CRV brand new the first week in March of that year and I still drive it every day. It now has a little over 275,000 miles under her belt and I'm in no hurry to sell it. If you keep the first gen's maintained properly they will give you tons of reliable service.
When would you have the timing belt changed?
I'm probably about due to check my valves again, I've started just doing it myself to avoid eyerolls from the mechanic and to save some money.
@@thedillestpickle when you pull the valve cover you can get a look at the timing belt and get a sense of the condition. sometimes the belt only lasts 60k some go for well over 150k. The failure mode of the timing belt is catastrophic so i replaced mine a couple months after getting my CR-V just so i have peace of mind.
@@saleplains I suggested having mine replaced when I got my car at 131000km but they pulled the cover and said it looked just fine. So I have been driving ever since all the way to 291000km without replacing... getting kindof anxious about it now after so many km driven.
Ok you seem like a pro. How much do you charge for a consult? These mechanics out here don't seem to want to inform me about this stuff. They just tell me to sell it. 😢
original owner of a 2000 CRV 279,000 miles (still have it)
Replaced
U-Joints (massive vibration surprised my drive shaft didn't fall out)
Starter
driver window motor
2 timing belts (preventive maintenance 100K and 200K)
2 water pumps (preventive maintenance 100K and 200K)
Sway bar links
Right CV joint
2 Radiators
Still have original alternator and struts
Never broke down in my CRV best car I have ever owned......
Anthony Dargenio is it automatic or manual?
any oil leaks ever?
I just bought a 2001 crv manuel what service would you sugest?
Wait...only one window motor??
Bob Roberts: you wouldn't have a name of a kit you'd recommend would you? I have an '01 SE automatic, 145kmiles
Just bought a 1999 Honda CR-V with 70k miles, I had to learn how to drive stick, and I love her already
How’s your CR-V going for you?
Binge watching these because I'm getting a Honda crv 2000 from a family mechanic just when I needed a car im so happy. ❤
Lmao off me too.. apparently they last forever
@@suckerpunchable mine was used and broke down had to sell it to Peddle llc and then I bought a jeep renegade :(((
@@JoifulFamily you went the exact opposite of reliable with a jeep
@@rickyharmon1190 my crv broke down the Jeep doesn’t scare me too bad so far it was lightly used.
@@rickyharmon1190 😂😂😂 I have to find out I guess but it’s a newer one gently used so hopefully not
I bought a 1997 with 240,000 mi on it as my first car and nearly everything you've covered has been fixed on it. In the 2 years that I've owned it I replaced my starter twice and the radiator. The driver side window regulator went out but that hasn't been a priority. It sure is fun learning how to fix it up to keep it running.
Laura Ramos th-cam.com/video/76_Fgq4d1xc/w-d-xo.html
motors for these in my area are 300$, im just gonna drive it till it dies then swap a new one in :) best bang for buck this car
What area????
promhetues lv 233 Olivas on the east coast these motors go for very cheap
Yea same Massachusetts they’re a dime a dozen
I'm guessing that's because a lot get taken off the road due to rust, but with good engines. On the west coast you'll see these with 3 or 400k.
I suggest getting the engine now.
They are only difficult to find when you need one.
I've had my 99 CRV for over 13 years now. I've watched some of my friends go through 5 and 6 cars while I've done practically nothing to mine, besides routine maintenance. With 251k miles on it, I think it's considered low mileage for a Honda.
98 model does have one of best fuel ratings
I bought a unicorn today. 1999, 23,277 miles - older woman owned it and traded it in at a subaru dealership after 21 years.
Love it you have a gem
I have 3 miles on mine bc the odometer maxed out and reset.
Damn
👍👍👍👏👏👏
2000 crv 289,000 miles, can’t wait to hit 300k. Though she is giving me some trouble now. Check engine light throws misfires, I swapped the Idle Air Control Valve, still idles low. Hoping to make it to 300k!
Suspension creaks like a mothaf***** 😂 it’s alright tho, i’d rather save my money than have a $500-700 monthly car payment 😳
my 1998 with 204,000 is the best car I have owned. Has original manual transmission and no engine problems. It purrs beautifully.
Paul Smallriver nice, my 99 crv has a 5 speed manual awd all original engine, tranny everything with 455,002 miles on it and it runs like it came out of the factory, you've got some life left in yours just treat it the way you want to be treated!
I'm from Europe wanna buy one but im coming from a 1.6 Tdi diesel who has been extremely reliable and doesn't spend much on fuel what stuff should i look on a 1999.. Honda and does it spend alot on fuel on traffic/city driving short trips i do mostly.
Wow, thats a lot of miles! Good to hear, I just hit 200,000 on my '01.
@ Paul -
CLASSIC!!!
Honda Reliability
Runs Forever
I have a 2000 CRV 133 k on it. Here is my list of repairs over the years since I bought it with 60 k on it.. I have had to replace the drivers side window regulator and motor recently and now door lock activator. both cheap to buy online and not bad to do. drivers door gets most use thus wears out quicker. I have also done preventive maintenance having timing belt and water pump replaced. mechanical recommended new valve gasket and Valves adjusted had it done and do not smell oil or leak anymore. Also replaced upper and lower ball joints both sides needed too. Catalytic converter needed replacement too. Finally replaced original rear drum brakes at 130 k. And sway bar links and sway bar links bushings. interesting bushings rubber stiffens giving weird nose. Easy fix. I replaced a small plastic cap passanger side of motor below valve gasket cover. had a mild oil drip this took care of cheap fix. Also rear hatch stopped working, I had to spay it with PB blaster several times to get it to work again I also pulled dash clock had a buddy solder a connection to get it working again. All fixes on u tube, but I left the ball joints and timing belt stuff to a mechanic.Did most other stuff mentioned myself with utube. I also replaced the radiator and installed a block heater at that time. I live up North with snow and hills which could cause some of these issues.....it turns out door lock actuater was not the whole issue replaced it but also had mechanical issue with plastic piece and rod thatoved lock ..watched function on utube and then siliconed it in place after many failed attempts of just putting in place. Let silicoin set 24 hours without activating lick to set it. No problem since ..this is two years later. Also replaced 2 horns that stopped working. No utube videos found on 2000 crv horn, but located behind front bumper. I used 1/4 socket to remove one bolt each horn. Can buy direct fit horn with plug but I cut wires and used after market horns. The come in high tone and low tone one each. I like the European low tone sound but put in a low tone and a high tone horn..two wires per horn attach to clips comes with new hire soldier and tape. Not a lit if room but doable. I took licence plate off to give room ..I lost a socket in between bumper and cover ..recovered removing two small bolts under front bumper attaching bumper to cover. Easy job ..now car legal for son to start driving after drivers education:).
Sounds like you did alot of work to it
James Fox oh wow. currently driving a 99 with 160k miles, and seems like I have a lot of the same problems. hatch, clock, timing belt, door lock mechanism, catalytic converter, and brakes.
James Fox i
hi there. I have a 2001 ex UK model (manual) and I'm suffering with it. been looking thru TH-cam videos n such but still not winning esp things like the windows, dash clock and just the other day it went dead and had to press the reset button. beauty to drive but a pain to maintain...any advice?
Great post, James! One question tho: how’d you determine that the problem with the driver’s window was the regulator and motor and not an electrical problem in switch or other wiring? My 01 has had this issue for some time but it seems like it’s risky to buy mechanical fixes first and then hope that’s what the problem is. I’ve seen guys selling NIB regulators for this model so the mistake must not be that uncommon. Thanks.
We bought our 01 CR-V with 160k on it and the only thing I've had to change is the oil, brakes, plugs and wires. I did change the valve cover gasket at around 180k but I didn't really have to. The cat got stolen off of it about a month after we bought it and I have been running it on a 3 foot pipe, no cat and no muffler ever since. The transmission shifts as smooth now at 195k as it did when we bought it. I can honestly say this is the best car I have ever owned and would buy another one in a heartbeat.
Got a 2000 Crv with 545k, these run foreverr
I have a 1998 with over 170 miles. Never had a problem.
1998 EX 5spd Manual 273,195
I have had to do some work on it but its my favorite car I've ever owned. I plan on keeping it forever.
I also have a 98 CRV Lx model. in 2004 I Found it at a dealers lot in N. Texas so it had just been traded in the day before. The odometer read 1108 miles, I initially thought it was 101,008 miles but second check was correct at 11oo miles, turned out odometer had been replaced at 16,800 miles (per the sticker on the door frame) so now this six year old vehicle had a total of 17,900 miles total use and this being the fall of 2004. Since then i've replaced the tires twice, the battery twice, the drivers side window actuator, the timing belt and water pump, new radiator last year. It has never broken down on me, knocking on wood, ever. The most reliable vehicle I've ever owned and have no plans to get rid of change to another vehicle. The odometer is now 135,000 so in reality it has 150K miles and is a daily driver. I towed my little Runaway camper, 650 lbs from SW Florida to N. Texas and then back to Pennsylvania and then down to SW Florida last year, other than dragging mileage down to 25 mpg I couldn't tell I was towing anything at all. I normally get between 29-31 mpg on flat lands and down to 27-28 mpg on hilly roads. I love my Honda CR-V.
Actually 1st generation CRV’s were out from 1997-2001. Honda strongly recommends changing the timing belt
Every 100,000 miles. If you wait for it to break it can seriously damage your engine!
In need of this myself...past due..thanks for reminder!
Did any one have this problem by cleaning the shift solenoid
My 1998 revs up then switch gears bad in 2 to 3 but the rest are fine
I changed the fluid but only once
Yes i am rn . How did you fix it bud ?!
Material on the seats was made in a textile plant in kenansville, NC called Guilford Mills. I used to run the printer that put the design on the cloth, I believed we called it Joshua then. I don't know where it went after that in fact we only knew the cloth was for Honda.
I recently acquired a 97 CRV and it’s been great so far.
25mpg, AWD good in snow, good peppy engine in city traffic, very high build quality and reliable.
Cons: driver seat is uncomfortable, lacks power going up mountains, cup holders are too shallow.
I live in Mississippi, I don’t have to worry out mountains
One of the most common missed maintenance items on 1st gen CRV's is the valve lash adjustment. This should be done every 25-30k miles. If neglected, you run the risk of burning a valve and having to rebuild the head. The reason for this is Honda chose not to use hardened valve seats on the B20. If you do end up having to rebuild the head, get the machine shop to replace all the valve seats with hardened seats. You'll be good for 100k miles and your CRV will truly be bullet proof!
You will be good forever in that case*
Most people never adjust the valves and they die around 150-200k if not driven hard.
My car has done 82k miles ..it's a 2000 model .no idea if the valves have been adjusted .but the cambelt and water pump were done at 42k miles about 10 years ago.
I love my 2001 CRV only 35,000 miles. Since it doesn't get driven much battery drain is a problem especially in the winter. So every two or three years I have to buy a new battery. Bought a new set of tires a year ago and the brake pads. That's it! It's a great car!
Have 98 crv 250,000 miles runs grt
2001 Honda CR-V 4 Wheel here...over 1,000,000 miles...original engine....
I disagree 100% my 1999 Honda CR-V has taken me to California from Arizona so many times. It really depends on the owner. All you do is give it TLC..sorry but your under rating the best Honda-CRV.. my sister bought a new one . And guess what
No Good..I'm keeping my Night Owl.🚙👍❤
1996-2000 Civic Platform
1994-2001 Acrua Integra based Engine
Two of the greatest cars in one you can't go wrong when it's a Honda.
Rear suspension like NSX, hard to find good parts
unless you live in the rust belt.
@@aaron___6014 that goes for all cars though
@@aaron___6014 Yea my car is rusting away completely. I feel like it's a conspiracy by the auto makers to force me to buy a new one.
@@thedillestpickle it's the road salt. Go to anchorage alaska or anywhere else in Alaska and you'll see cars from the 90s with little to no rust. It's amazing, we've been convinced that road salt is essential during winters.
2000 crv bought in 05 w/75k. 2021 ,223k, doing good, put window motor in drverside , new batt in 09. Inside original, practically showroom. ( ex military) lol
Honda bought back my 1998 crv last year because they could not find a replacement air bag for the Takata bag anywhere in the world - i' in Australia. I thought this was a world wide recall and refund.
Now these cars are still dependable, but like any 20 year old car the electrical system is going to start giving you headaches. Be prepared if you find a CRV to probably do some electrical work! Mechanically these things are tanks
i used to have one when the transmission went out at 127,000 miles on a 1999 crv. if the internal filter clogs i did add a external filter to it it helped somewhat its a one with a spin on type filter to eliminate the internal filter inside the transmission it requires dissasembly. as the transmission was the downfall on mine with the 4 speed automatic. i had all the sway bar end links and bushings replaced on it all door lock actuators, cooling system componets, as it started to leak oil as u said the cam and crankshaft seals and as well transmission fluid mainly from the O ring to the transfer case. before the trans went i replaced both O2 sensors on it it was sucks to waste them. not only that in the buyers guide in addition to the timing belt the issues with the 4 speed automatic. slipping flaring between gears and other issues
Same smh 🤦🏽♂️ after all that money
Adjust valve lash every 15K, replace timing belts at 90K, and upgrade stabilizer bar end links. Many '96-'01 CR-V owners have been burned by costly valve repairs. Don't let it happen to you.
You certainly aren't hurting anything but IMO adjusting the valve lash every 15,000 miles is overkill. All of the first gen V owners that I know on the various forums do it every 30,000 miles and they've had zero issues. I have 265,000 miles on my '98 and I did it every 30K for quite a few years but I've found that I can stretch it to 40K without issue. Even at the 40K interval I have very adjustments to make. The main thing is to keep a close eye on it and the B20 engines will last seemingly forever. Mine still purrs like a kitten and I have no desire to get rid of her anytime soon. IMO, Honda doesn't build them like this these days and the first gen's were reliable mules which were crazy reliable if maintained properly.
I've read about this. Do I take it to my local mechanic to have the valvs adjusted
@@AbsoluteMdot You can easily do it yourself if you have the inclination to do so. Just unbolt the valve cover, loosen the valve locknuts and adjust. Only special tool you need is a set of feeler gauges.
@@ForeignerPhan Yea I was adjusting more frequently but stopped when it seemed that very little adjustment was needed. I would guess if you fail to change the oil for a long stretch that may accelerate the wear that leads to the valves being out of adjustment.
@@thedillestpickle Thank you! I no longer have the car I sold it last year. I was very fortunate that I did not have any valve issues
Thanks for the video. I just bought one for $500. Lets just day it needs some work.
What kinda work it Needed?
@@hakeemfb3 The power steering was bad. It costed me $300 extra. But still, it's a nice little car for $700.
Great video, I have a CRV manual
I have one of these that I bought at 136K. I have 186K now and need to change the timing belt. I adore this car. It's been real good to me, but I have had to replace a couple things. No serious problems.
I have done the timing belt on this one , i bought the kit off ebay, you need to pull the valve cover and the driver side tire, the the plastic shield and crank pulley, its not a bad job at all, its worth replacing the cam seals and crank seal while you are there, also be sure to do the water pump while you are in there
Lost mine last week. Totally devastated. Best car I ever owned. My beautiful big red x
What happened to it?
Thanks for doing this, Nathan. I'm considering buying a first-gen CR-V so this is very timely. I personally like the first and second-gen CR-Vs much better than the current ones, at least style-wise. All SUVs nowadays look pretty much the same.
No window regulator problems is where u lost me, all mines messed up
I've got a 98 with a 5 speed. It's about to pass 300k. Such a good car, and the day it dies ill go buy another the same. Repairs to date have been sway bar end links, and a repaired engine mount. That's it.
how many miles when you built it?
@@aaron___6014 It's not built - all standard. It's done 320,000 km now :) Still no troubles
@@bernardsimmonds sorry, i meant to say 'bought it'
@@aaron___6014 It had about 230,000km on it from memory
I bought my '98 CRV in 3/98 and it currently has a little over 283,000 miles under her belt. If maintained properly the first Gen V's are just crazy reliable. I'm still running with the original fuel pump,starter, and alternator but I did replace the brushes on the alternator around five years ago. The #1 problem with the 1st Gen's are burnt valves since Honda recommended valve adjustments every 105,000 miles unless they became noisy...both recommendations are to be avoided like the plague. I used to do a valve adjustment every 30K miles but I've found that I can get away with doing them every 40K without any issues. I have an auto trans and I've been using Valvoline's MaxLife ATF in the V and my '05 Pilot for six years without a single issue. I also only use Honda's coolant/antifreeze but the next time I think I'm gonna go with Zerex's Asian formula since it appears to have most if not all of the same qualities. I wouldn't recommend putting Prestone's yellow formula in a Honda. I'm still running with the original trans although it started flaring between some of the lower gears around three years ago. Otherwise, the old girl just won't die and I have no desire to replace her.
I have just bought Honda CRV, 4wd, 2.0 iLs SRS 1998 for Dad, please can you tell me if the Radiator needs changing at any stage after running over 120,000 miles. Also, what else I need to change to avoid breakdown. Thank you!
Yes
I got a 1999 AT/4WD with 165K miles on it. The damn beauty purrs like an angel, starts in a click, and has a really good mileage for me. changed it to a 16in. wider tires and rims, now I can travel at 120KPH without any wobble. the B20B engine. 145HP is not that bad either. my honda CRV lasted longer that my friend's 2013 CRV and that made me laugh my ass off.
375k 2001
Thanks for the video, I just bought a 1998 model
pretty useless... why tell me what to ask, or what to look for... without saying how important the answer is? if something is leaking, or a sway bar is bad... don't buy, or just fix it? I wish some of these videos included some help
Technically the coolant can be green. But Honda coolant is BLUE, so BLUE is best.
Common source of vibration at high speeds can be worn u-joints.
Aaron ___ new Honda coolant is blue older Honda’s use green
Klassen Kustoms wrong
I've had one of these for 19 years now, and I agree with everything you said. I have also had two chronic problems. One is the air conditioning compressors have not lasted well, I am on my fourth. The other is the clutch cylinders on the 5-speed manuals, but I realize most of these vehicles came with automatics. Another problem is visible in the video, which is small amounts of gasoline dripping down below the filler damages the paint finish and there is always a rust spot or patch there where the metal meets the bumper trim.
1999 CRV here with 112,400 miles!
mine has 265k
I just bought a 99 with 216,00 for $500 that has a bad transmission.... my daughters first car. We drove to Long Beach and picked up a used JDM unit from an importer. $550 for a awd transmission and $350 for an engine. At those prices I can nearly keep it on the road forever...no rust here in California...the Communist Politicians here will regulate it off the road before it wears out! I'm reading through the comments here looking at what I'm going to do next while it's down. What makes me laugh is the complaints about the valve adjustment intervals being 30,000 miles...my VW bus is every 1,500. I'm very happy I bought this car after all I've read.
Thanks man for making this video! I had a oil leak and could not figure it out and it turned out to be that timing cover you pointed out.
THANKS I recently purchased a 2000 CRV with 140,000 miles on it!
Mine eats valve cover gaskets but otherwise she's great, coming up to 190,000 miles. Fantastic daily driver/beater cars. The most reliable vehicle I've ever owned. I have NO plans on selling it.
Watch out for the ball joints on these CR-Vs. While the uppers are easy to service, the lowers are recessed inside the steering knuckle. You won't be able to reach them with a regular bearing press. If you don't have the special Honda lower ball joint extraction tool, you'll have to take the car to a garage,
Dont need the special tool.
A piece of pipe or a big socket will do the same thing..
Pretty much anything metal that will fit
2000 CR-V EX 4WD 270,000 miles. I love this thing. The best damn vehicle in the snow and I've driven lot's of vehicles in the snow.
AGREE!
Given, I do live in Indiana, so snow is not ever as serious here as other places. But one snow storm we had, (maybe 2007?) the entire state, north of I70, if not all, was shut down....5 of us decided it was a good day to go sledding. We drove 30miles to Lafayette and didn't see but 2 or 3 vehicles moving the entire day. Never lost traction for even a moment. Had a blast scooting along, with roads to ourselves. (Can't say same for sledding hill- crowded and crazy-fun!)
looking for a crv for a friend of mine and this video was totally helpful.
I now need help , my 1998 CRV leaks oil from the exhaust pipe. what do i change. Changed valve stem seals but still the same. wanted to buy another set of 16 seals. Any tips as what wht else to change along.
Stay away from synthetic oil use what is specified for engine
The best looking crv.
2000 Crv 302k !
1997 with 160k. Knock on wood, never a problem. Road trip machine.
Thanks for the video.
Same my 97 is my all time favorite car
Update four years later: 179k and running strong. Tires and oil changes is all she ever wants.
I had a 99 CR-V which had a transmission failure before it went out it flared between 2nd and 3 and 3 and 4 and when it went out there was no drive to the wheels. another issue is the P0420 code with the catalytic converter, and the power door lock system the door lock actuators on the front doors go bad the motors inside them particularly the driver's door which governs the keyless remote entry. for a northeast vehicle would be the rust they typically rust in the rear panals behind the rear wheels, and the lower edges of the doors particularly the inside of the door as u will notice it when you open the doors. as i should of gotten a 99 crv with a manual transmission it would of lasted me indefinately but this went out and the vehicle had only close to 127,000 miles on it. on this first gen model most of the parts and acessories are discontinued by Honda. another problem is the alloy wheels they corrode where the tire beads mount on and loose air till i put on Cragar 69 wheels. as i had this till the transmission went out just after Christmas of 2015. the engine was still healthy with a regular 7 year timing belt replacement, i changed the oil pan gasket, valve cover seal as it was well taken care of the downside was the 4 speed automatic transmission.
My dad had a 2001 CR-V and he had it for 16 years. A little bit after he reached 200,000 miles, the oil started leaking. We don't know exactly what it was but the mechanics around here charged more than what the car was worth. He decided to trade it in for a new Honda Odyssey. My grandparents had a 2000 Honda CR-V and they got rid of it after they bought bad gas and the engine was messed up. They loved also very much. But anyway, I just wanted to say that with every CR-V of this generation that I see including my dad's and grandparent's has a big rust spot on the body/surface above the rear right wheel (when looking from the back of the car facing the spare wheel.
Wait, my dad had a 2000 model and my grandparents had the 2001. I got confused because my mom still has her 2001 Rav4. We also love that car too!
To be honest Rustin above the rear wheel arches is common in most cars in their ,20,s 30s usually my little remedy is a bit of cunning/ creative thinking fillering plastic padding as you go smoothing with what ever takes your fancy behind it .clay and newspaper sometimes works but you will be needing a horticulturist to solve your weed problem come spring .Also Some one said about oil leaks .This is usually cured with a bit of spanner rash and tightning things.When things look expensive and v leaky I turn to my old friend Wyn's Stop leak. Great for crank seals)Signs of a giving head obviously dumph in some rad weld heavy duty farmer grade stuff it will also temp stop a leaky rad and heater matrix.i have had to pull a egg out of a chicken before now to put in a very leaky rad that wouldent respond.then its time to go down the scrap yard and haggle and swop.rads and impoverishment storys Battery going bad ? Top it up with rain water and I like to use Granvilles battery plate cleaner pills then stick it on charge for whatever.you know its right when the battery's boiling and you can smell it.best leave it for a couple of hours after that if you value your clothing ..?also leaky tyres I fill mine full of gunk and if they are looking a bit sad and cracky on the walls use some kiwi boot polish but not on the tredd .Dull plastics why not use some cheap butter this revives the colour .dull paint with a lacquer peel .why not use some Vaseline I always carry a industrial pot in my glove box ,very handy stuff and use it like a cheap grease water repellent sealant for winscreen rubbers sunroofs roof mounted Ariels deals perished .but when it gets hot it can get a little messy and smear the windscreen. You too can keep running a high millage car like a tosser for years until you weigh it in .but I always change the oil and filter every year and specify my own secret premium blend of whatever's available at the bottom of a tin and use the excess used oil to rust proof the underside and any excess I use to paint wooden the fences and gates.Oh I almost forgot about fuel .befriend a chippy Chinese and curry house this multicultural mix of multigrade fuel will pay dividends on your fuel costs if you run a ancient diesel in place of a petrol motor and leave you smelling like a tasty morsel /battered bat or deep fried squirrel on s stick its your choice.sunflower oil is nice as it smells of donuts on a warm day and makes your car run like a rocket.and in the winter mix 50 50 with regular diesel to stop solidification .I don't recommended you do any of these things as they are careless and irresponsible .but if your car is crap and you have a case of terminally brassica about you and get excited about knockoff items in discount stores and end of line use by dates and dented tins and haggling you won't be any stranger to any of this
anyway it won't make any difference and life goes on. how else are you going to cost run that 2 car you actually like. in my case a old jag.
PO304 cylinder 4 misfire
- spark plug changed
- wire in good condition
- valves are adjusted
what else can it be
Burnt valve , do a compression test
Electrical part of ignition switch.had a recall
Thank you for posting. That's really helpful as I have just been given a CR-V of the same age... will change that cam belt and water pump straight away...
I was just looking for a fun video, and came across this. This was more helpful than I thought and I'll definitely use this when I look at some used ones soon. Appreciate it!
Great video.We've had our 1999 CRV for 4 years, and it's fantastic off-road, even on pretty nasty four wheel drive dirt roads, as well as on the highway, of course. The interior never seems to wear out on these. We replaced the timing belt at 130,000 miles, and are about to replace the clutch at 160,000. With 225 snow tires, it goes great through snow and ice. The "Real Time AWD" seems to work great with no issues. The valve cover and oil pan gaskets got weepy at 150.000 miles (needed to re-torque the pan gasket). Only two complaints: the hidden oil filter: it's in the back of the engine, below the intake manifold, so hard to get a hold of an almost impossible to see. Also, the drive train collects ice in winter (slushy roads the worst) and sometimes needs to have ice chopped away from the driveshaft to stop terrible noises. These are wonderful, cheap vehicles. Highly recommended!
man that oil filter location is a bitch isnt it, i was so mad when i did my first oil change on mine because for some reason the last guy to do it absolutely cranked on the thing i was pissing myself thinking it was seized but it came off after i went and got one of those filter wrenches
I have a 1999 with 247,000. This vehicle is the best.
Ive got a line on a 2001 with 110k miles. Probably going to check it out...good call about the timing belt. Thanks.
Other possible common issues I've experienced: (1) Driveshaft u-joints go bad, (2) oil pan leaks, (3) rad fans stop working (had coolant overflow top blow a couple times until I figured out what was wrong), (4) valves in cylinder head get burned if not adjusted periodically (do mine every couple years), (5) engine mounts flimsy, (6) plastic rod holder clip in driver's door breaks (can't open door from inside), and (7) water leaks into cabin (front driver's or passenger's side).
Another issue: Starter gear retraction speed slows or the gear doesn't fully retract, causing grinding on the flywheel. The starter's pinion shaft (think that's the name of it) has to be greased with Honda Moly 77 grease to correct the issue.
Just FYI, the CR-V owner's manual says to replace the timing belt before 100k.
Yeah
Timing belt is 100k
Nothing mentioned about the #1 thing to take care of with the B20 engines...check/adjust the valve clearance every 30K-40K miles. I used to do it every 30K but I found I still have have little if any adjustments to make at the 40K mark. I have a '98 with 285,000 miles and the engine still purrs like a kitten...actually more like a sewing machine. The AT flares sometimes between 2nd and 3rd gears but I'm still running around with the original starter, fuel pump and alternator(although I replaced the brushes around five years ago). I'm about to replace the rear strut assembly because I'm quite sure the original coil springs and the Tokico Blue struts I installed around fifteen years ago are pretty much shot. All in all, if maintained properly the first gen V's are mules...just refuse to die
A CRV is the car I learned to drive on, I miss it, it was slow as crap but a great vehicle otherwise. They make a supercharger kit for it that raises power about 40%, that would be perfect.
Have a 2001 Crv SE.
Put 10k miles on it in 6 months. Its at 176k miles, so far it
leaks oil looks like from oil pan.
Did the cv axles on front.
Had a fan replaced.
Water pump went bad, did timing belt same time. regular shop charges about $300-$600 fyi
Needs struts. $60each online $100 at parts stores.
When locking doors makes loud almost like buzzer noise.
Had loud valve tick so valves adjusted.
Runs and drives fine but damn it seems kind of a needy vehicle but its the nices one ive ever had.
Looks like what I might get as a back up for my BMW
Me watching this vid 🤣
Just use a heat gun on those trims,works wonders :)
what temp? @gankman
OR 303 aerospace protectant.
Only $8 and works like magic dude.
Thanks for good info about the crv ! I have just bought one so its good to know what to look for in this car. Thank You ! Mike from sweden.
Yo hit that with the turtle wax headlights restorer
Almost 500,000 on my 97
my Dad can't drive anymore so he decided to pass on his 2000 SE to me...it only has 30k miles on it an he always kept it in his garage ...he owns a truck also an would use that as his daily driver......tires are new also..looks like the front two were bought recently......i do need to change the rear differential fluid...and i wish it had the 5 speed manual trans but it's a very nice car...looking forward to passing the 150k mile mark some day.....it's old school like me so i'm really liking this car.....it has an ash tray....lol...
+David James Just keep the oil checked is all you need to do to run it to 150k miles, the transfer case takes auto trans fluid if yours is the awd model, might want to change it, i believe it hold 2 quarts if i remember right.
i checked the trans fluid and it's fine...i changed the differential fluid an it looked like i should have saved my money..... but it's new fluid now....they are very nice cars...fun to drive.....i've had a lot of offers from people wanting to buy my Dad's CR-V.....but this car is made to take on fishing trips so i'm keeping it......no it's not a jeep or 4x4 pickup but it is AWD and i have yet to get stuck on the beach ...at least not yet...lol...and i fish the surf and shallows lots....
@@davidjames4583 Blinker fluid usually goes bad at 50k or so, make sure to keep an eye on it
Came here to see if they require maintenance often in comparison to an equivalent b20 civic or wago van. The first 2 and a half mins are exclusively talking about superficial uv damage and random trim spec facts. safe to say they're pretty reliable lmfao
I’ve had the valve cover gasket replaced and the cam plug. Both were leaking oil really not a big deal or costly repair I diligently check my oil always and just replaced it because I like a clean engine bay plus the cam seal was leaking oil on the driveway
CRV Gen 1 is generally very reliable. Small nitty gritty issues but nothing major.
The Door Moulding weather seal (strip that is peeling) should be changed out to keep water out.
Else if the water proof sheet in the door ain't working well, water will get into the car. Simple n easy fix, inexpensive
I have currently in my stable
- 2000 Accord Gen 6 2.3L
- 2003 Accord Gen 7 3L V6
- 2005 Stream 2L
- 2006 Civic Gen 8
Thankyou from a guy that knows nothing about cars.... Beautiful car for a 6foot+ guy wide brother. :)
thank you for that wonderful, informative video. appreciate it.
Under the car there are 2 rear frame bars that are rusted through. Does anyone know why are they for and should I be changing them soon? I really love my 1999 CR-V. Bought it 3rd hand about a year ago.
You left out the illuminated Red Square that's actually not a light it's just a painted Square it's in the middle of the speedometer at the bottom if it's red that means there's engine service needed in will not be inspected you can hit a button and turn it back to green then it'll go orange then back to read within a few hundred miles most every used Civic Accord and CR-V has that red square showing that means there's problems
That's the maintenance indicator. Means to change your oil.
CRV 1st and 2nd gen are extremely well made and easy to work on. I have an 05 and am very glad to have found it for the price I paid
I just bought an expensive post-covid (all used cars are far more expensive than they were pre-covid) 2001 CRV LX, AT and all-wheel drive, with 210,000 miles for $4,700 at a used car lot. But it almost looks like new!
The 2 previous owners apparently kept it garaged, and the CarFax service records go all the way back to when it was new; the CarFax service report is *14 pages long!* And that doesn't include the last 2 pages that are just a bunch of legal mumbo-jumbo.
Except for a few scratches and small dings, the exterior looks almost brand new, ZERO rust (from a life-long Kentucky car!), and the interior is just as good, except where some paint had been spilled and dried in the carpet in the back cargo area; it even has the OEM floor mats (in excellent shape, except for the somewhat-worn driver's floor mat), and good Pirelli tires! It starts immediately as soon as I turn the key, and idles very smoothly.
I've only had it for less than a week, but the Torque app (set up specifically for this CRV) is telling me that I'm getting 30 MPG in city driving, and about 27 on the interstate at 65-70 MPH; I find that hard to believe, and will find out for sure when I fill the tank the second time, but nonetheless, it seems to do much better than my previous 2000 CRV did years ago-- it always, ALWAYS, got 22 MPG, city or highway. Also, no engine codes at all-- none.
The only issue so far, is a vibration that feels like it's coming from the front-right. The service records show that the front-end has been aligned a few times, so I wonder if this has been a problem for a while; I'm going to have the front tires and suspension checked next Monday, because the vibration (only noticeable once I go over about 55 MPH) becomes very annoying at speeds over 65 MPH.
My previous CRV, a 2000 LX with FWD, I drove half-way across the country from South Florida to Kansas and back, not one issue whatsoever. This is a wonderful travel vehicle; excellent visibility from the large windows all around, LOTS of interior room for travel stuff (well, but then, I was by myself, so I had plenty of room), room for food, a cooler, my clothing, and my camera equipment. The back seats recline, so I'd recline one of them, drop the passenger seat down, and lay down to take naps. The front seats will fold 'flat' so-to-speak, and with the headrest removed from the front seats, will fold back to meet the front edge of the back seat, making a semi-flat area to stretch out to sleep; I tried that, but it just wasn't flat enough for me to be comfortable enough to sleep that way. But a cool idea maybe for someone smaller than me.
I'm hoping to keep this Honda for a very long time, or maybe trade up to a 2nd-gen CRV sometime in the future.
Oh, I gave my 2000 CRV to my youngest son, who proceeded to go 4-wheeling in muddy fields with it, and trashed the transmission. The trannys were not built for that kind of punishment.
Shortly, I will be installing an aftermarket dash cam/rear view camera and recorder, because these vehicles do have a bad blind area directly behind them! A child could be standing directly behind the CRV and you'd never see them if you were backing up. So I strongly recommend to anyone with a CRV to install a low-mounted backup camera for safety.
I have a 99 crv put about 3000 miles on it so far in last 6 month's and pretty much everything said is right my window motor just acted up motor is working but gear not turning and also have to replace both inner tie rod ends and boots and pass. Side cv shaft
Friend has a 2000 Honda crv. With 60k miles he wants 1500$ wonder if I should buy it to deliver pizza
Oil leak from valve cover is because pcv Valve , gets blocked , ,$5 part . Or you can eliminate it all together.
Other thing break lines are in cover , salt and dirt ,water gets there and lines seat in it . Better remove. covers .
I have a 2000 CRV - 301113 MILES as of today - I bought it new in 2000 and it has driven by all my 3 boys before they got the other car. I remember changing timing belt/water pumps x2, compressor x2 , condenser x1, head gasket x1, distributor cap and motor, drive shaft, tie rods x 4, mufferx1. I just replaced window Regulator assembly on the driver side and I have been maintaining the car myself for our youngest boy,14. He is able to drive next year. 2000 CRV is 100% imported from Japan that is why it is so reliable. The only issue I have is the compressor - My 2nd new OEM compressor broken after two years . My CRV does not have AC for many years. I have been watching the youtube on CRV fix. Hopefully I can do the timing belt and install a new compressor all by myself.
Never had a window regulator problem?!
I guess maybe if you don't smoke and don't get northern winters. The windows freeze shut and you pushing the button can break window clips putting the window off track, and/or prematurely wear the window actuator until it dies. I've replaced 6 in 400,000 miles and I'm careful