I have had a 100 gallon tank in my truck for equipment for years, something I did to save some trouble was put canvas hydraulic hose protection over my fuel hose to keep the sun from dry rotting it.
Just grind your seams in the bent position because that is were the metal needs to be removed were it comes together. But pretty good for doing it in a garage. Also use a pipers grinding disc. It is thinner than a regular disc and thicker than a cutting disc. It is better in controlling your gap and for cleaning your root welds with out too much material removal. Forty years welding in the oil field and mines you learn a thing or two. Great job!
If you score on the outside of the bend, you won't have the clearance issue with the bend, and you have a nice little shelf to weld up. Nice work on the tank.
That was a great video a fella gets some pretty deep satisfaction knowing he made it himself and it's way better than what you could buy. And absolutely custom to boot!
One thing that would help with bends is score it like you did with the grinder but do it on both sides. So alternate the side of the blade on the cut and basically make a valley. Keep up the good content brother
Nice design and construction. Always great to customize a project for YOUR needs instead of settling for an off-the-shelf make do product. Custom fit says it all. Thumbs Up!
I love to see others that build things they need. I built my own dovetail car trailer about 4 years ago from steel I got at an auction sale. I've also built a reloading press and an Alaskan chainsaw mill out of an old chair and a weight lift bench.
That truck is so tall that even the stock bed with the tailgate up made it hard to see out back, I’ve been meaning to install a backup camera since 2014. I couldn’t find a better place for anything larger than a 35”, 35” will just barely fit between the frame rails. I agree it’s kind of a pain but gotta have that spare!
It's great that your building your own spare fuel tank. A little food for thought take your project to a local sheet metal shop with a hydraulic or large brake and let them bend it for you. But when you use a brake you have to add a little lenght for the bends
That’s a great idea, it would look way more clean but every time I ask for a quote for metal work around here (plasma table) they are booked out for weeks and I’m inpatient.
I just tried to do a little one in aluminum for the “hotdog cart” grey water tank. It ended up cracking at the welds, go with thicker aluminum on the first one, 1/8”?
@@Andrewactual what grade aluminum was it? 5052 works well for tanks .120 wall is usually a good thickness with 4043 as the filler unless your going to anodize then use 5056 filler. Don't forget to weld in doubler plates at fill spouts or pump locations.
That was a great idea for dead space on your rig! I’m lucky my neighbor is a professional welder... I supply his family with beef... he’s my on call welder... I am horrible at welding... lol Really enjoy your channel!
Firstly, 1/8"!? And i thought i over build things 🤯 secondly theres no need for the baffles at only 30-40 gals, i run a 60gal transfer tank in my F350 and have never noticed any weight shifting during turns or braking......and yes i know what it would feel like, i have driven milk tanks before and they aren't legally allowed to have baffles being food grade. Awesome build though, love the custom contouring 👏👍
Thanks, I figured they baffled as a primary intent and secondly it helped keep the tank from bulging, probably didn’t need them but hey, why not. Thanks for the input, it’s odd that milk can’t have baffles, is it a frothing thing, show up with all cream!?
Also I’m glad I went with 1/8, a fork lift driver tried to smash my trailer axles into it repeatedly when I went to pick them up and I’ve slid a skid steer bucket off my forks and it stopped sliding when it hit the fuel tank, just a little scratch. I do overbuild things sometimes though. I’m trying to judge between strength and weight these days.
Well the bulging is definitely an issue with my tank but its just an off the shelf 18ga tank, i dont think 1/8" would bulge very much if at all. The milk deal isnt just milk, all food grade tanks must be smooth bore so as to facilitate a person climbing in and scrubbing them clean between loads. All the railroad tanks you see that are marked vegetable oil are smooth inside too. Another think thats different with food grade tranks is they are all much smaller capacity than they look. They're normally insulated quite heavily between a double wall.
This just goes to show there is always more than one way to skin a cat. I always score the outside edges so when it bends it doesn't bind. but you still got it done and your way looks way cleaner that way too. Turned out great!!!! Nice job
I didn’t pay much attention to that until one day my kid ran her hand across the closed door and made a less dirty spot, I ran to Lowe’s to get some soap you hook to the hose before the covenant saw!
Great build man, i just wish the pump was orientated parallel to the tank somehow so the filter and the hoses were not sticking out that much... perhaps raise it and turn sideways... ? Just my thoughts, :)
I definitely want one! I haven’t had a lot of time lately for metal fabrication but I think I’m going to order one before my next project. Thanks for the recommendation
Me too. The camera turned off unfortunately. It’s not light even empty but with 1/8” steel there is plenty of meat to weld. I’ve had a forklift slam into it while loading trailer axles and I let a 600# skid steer bucket slide into it gouging the steel but no leaks!
I didn’t pressure test, just filled it with soapy water and watched for leaks. Since the cap is vented it shouldn’t ever see pressure. The air I put through it overnight after removing the water to make sure it was dry before pouring in red coat tank sealer. Thank you!
I can tell by the red spring in the vent cap you got the GPI, good for you. The Fill Rite vent caps ALWAYS leak when the tank is full. Very hard to keep it clean with diesel all over the place. The GPI cap has worked perfectly for me.
Plunge cutting in steel fucks the carbide blades even if meant for steel cutting like the evolution or Milwaukee saw thats a limitation to cutting steel with carbide blades
I dug pretty deep into the requirements and what I lack if they care is a label stating who the manufacturer was (me) and I believe the statement “diesel tank” but because it is less than 119 gallons it does not require a placard. This is my personal understanding and I also understand that I am taking a responsibility by running that tank. I may get a label made to meet that requirement and fake the funk. I ran the first tank through it then pulled the plug and have been driving around with it for a couple months empty with no plug to see if I get negative attention which I have not.
I went down to the farm store to scope out one of these mandatory permanently affixed labels and it’s placement was against the front of the bed where it couldn’t be seen so... I’m going to run it until I get caught I guess.
@@Andrewactual good information, I was wondering as well. I had no clue about the over 119 gal has to have placards. I plan on building a 100 gal tank out of 13 ga. I hope it is a sturdy as yours. Thanks for the video.
Is there a v shaped cutter that could put a better v cut at the seams that are bent to a 90? There’s a tool for everything nowadays surly they make one.
Thank you, I’ve been putting fuel through it like crazy with the land clearing I’ve been doing and I can’t imagine not having it. I put Red Kote Fuel Tank Sealer on the inside.
They are readily available at most auto parts store too, sometimes they have to be ordered but they can get them as long as you used 2" npt for the fill port
I wouldn’t want 100 gal on that truck unless the spare still fit underneath. The 35ish gallon tank has been great for me, more than I can use in a couple days in my machines. If I had a couple machines running at a time 35 gal would go quickly.
@@Beijingbiden yeah, I’m usually within 20 minutes of a fuel station around here. I can run any of my tractors all day on 8 gallons. If I was in the mountains I can definitely understand wanting more. I’m happy with 35 gallons and the spare tire on the bed. With a 100 gallon I’d lose most of that short bed. I do plan on looking into getting a couple hundred gallon tank at the farm.
Kobalt folding ones from Lowe’s. Advertised to hold 1100 pounds, I put them to the test on my flat bed build, it wasn’t heavy enough to max the 4 out but it wasn’t light! www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-37-8-in-W-x-32-in-H-Adjustable-Steel-Saw-Horse-1-100-lb-Capacity/1001182062?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-tol-_-google-_-lia-_-217-_-worksupports-_-1001182062-_-0&placeholder=null&gclid=Cj0KCQiAtqL-BRC0ARIsAF4K3WEEPht__hecdlAl-0zcx9ui_sknBm0BHVD8hykDv1FDlYxUMCXaJAwaAu7oEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
@@ajfreeze215 the only concern with diesel tanks is if you are sealing an old tank because the paraffin residue from the diesel fuel they recommend sand blasting. For a new tank it is okay to use for diesel, I see nothing mentioned on the website about biodiesel.
I have had a 100 gallon tank in my truck for equipment for years, something I did to save some trouble was put canvas hydraulic hose protection over my fuel hose to keep the sun from dry rotting it.
I’ll look into that for sure!
Just grind your seams in the bent position because that is were the metal needs to be removed were it comes together. But pretty good for doing it in a garage. Also use a pipers grinding disc. It is thinner than a regular disc and thicker than a cutting disc. It is better in controlling your gap and for cleaning your root welds with out too much material removal. Forty years welding in the oil field and mines you learn a thing or two. Great job!
If you score on the outside of the bend, you won't have the clearance issue with the bend, and you have a nice little shelf to weld up. Nice work on the tank.
I wanted the rolled edge on the outside. I was trying to avoid a welded top edge.
That was a great video a fella gets some pretty deep satisfaction knowing he made it himself and it's way better than what you could buy. And absolutely custom to boot!
One thing that would help with bends is score it like you did with the grinder but do it on both sides. So alternate the side of the blade on the cut and basically make a valley. Keep up the good content brother
Nice design and construction. Always great to customize a project for YOUR needs instead of settling for an off-the-shelf make do product. Custom fit says it all. Thumbs Up!
I love to see others that build things they need. I built my own dovetail car trailer about 4 years ago from steel I got at an auction sale. I've also built a reloading press and an Alaskan chainsaw mill out of an old chair and a weight lift bench.
I hope your putting that Alaskan Mill to work! If I ever end up somewhere with real trees I want to build one too
I would have to move that tire. I couldn’t take my rear view blocked. I guess you get used to it. NIce build. I need to make or buy a caddy.
That truck is so tall that even the stock bed with the tailgate up made it hard to see out back, I’ve been meaning to install a backup camera since 2014. I couldn’t find a better place for anything larger than a 35”, 35” will just barely fit between the frame rails. I agree it’s kind of a pain but gotta have that spare!
And here this whole time I thought I was the only person to use a speed square as a hammer lmao. Nice build man keep'em coming. I enjoy your videos
awesome build! sure a lot better than " just go buy one", you know you've got quality and its Made in the USA!
It's great that your building your own spare fuel tank. A little food for thought take your project to a local sheet metal shop with a hydraulic or large brake and let them bend it for you. But when you use a brake you have to add a little lenght for the bends
That’s a great idea, it would look way more clean but every time I ask for a quote for metal work around here (plasma table) they are booked out for weeks and I’m inpatient.
Awesome fab project. Flatbed looks custom too!
One of the best channels on TH-cam! Thanks for the video.
Thank you! Your support is very appreciated!
Great build! I would recommend using a couple old valve springs between the bottom of the bed and nuts underneath to allow for some flex off-road
I put rubber mat under each side. Everything is rigid enough that nothing will flex. The springs are a neat idea.
That thing is SWEET! Also super happy to learn about the red kote, I had been waiting to make a tank till i could weld aluminum.
I just tried to do a little one in aluminum for the “hotdog cart” grey water tank. It ended up cracking at the welds, go with thicker aluminum on the first one, 1/8”?
@@Andrewactual what grade aluminum was it? 5052 works well for tanks .120 wall is usually a good thickness with 4043 as the filler unless your going to anodize then use 5056 filler. Don't forget to weld in doubler plates at fill spouts or pump locations.
@@InspiredCraftsman that’s 1/8” steel diamond plate.
@@Andrewactual the info on aluminum was for the gray water tank
@@InspiredCraftsman ah okay that was 16ga. Way too light in my opinion.
Nice job your a heck of a fabricator.
Nice custom build! I dig it!
That was a great idea for dead space on your rig! I’m lucky my neighbor is a professional welder... I supply his family with beef... he’s my on call welder... I am horrible at welding... lol Really enjoy your channel!
Gives me some fuel for the generator, skid steer, or double the range on my truck!
Very well done! Thanks for sharing!
Firstly, 1/8"!? And i thought i over build things 🤯 secondly theres no need for the baffles at only 30-40 gals, i run a 60gal transfer tank in my F350 and have never noticed any weight shifting during turns or braking......and yes i know what it would feel like, i have driven milk tanks before and they aren't legally allowed to have baffles being food grade. Awesome build though, love the custom contouring 👏👍
Thanks, I figured they baffled as a primary intent and secondly it helped keep the tank from bulging, probably didn’t need them but hey, why not. Thanks for the input, it’s odd that milk can’t have baffles, is it a frothing thing, show up with all cream!?
Also I’m glad I went with 1/8, a fork lift driver tried to smash my trailer axles into it repeatedly when I went to pick them up and I’ve slid a skid steer bucket off my forks and it stopped sliding when it hit the fuel tank, just a little scratch. I do overbuild things sometimes though. I’m trying to judge between strength and weight these days.
Well the bulging is definitely an issue with my tank but its just an off the shelf 18ga tank, i dont think 1/8" would bulge very much if at all. The milk deal isnt just milk, all food grade tanks must be smooth bore so as to facilitate a person climbing in and scrubbing them clean between loads. All the railroad tanks you see that are marked vegetable oil are smooth inside too. Another think thats different with food grade tranks is they are all much smaller capacity than they look. They're normally insulated quite heavily between a double wall.
Brilliant video 👍 really enjoyed it I'm looking for one to buy and now I would like to build one myself
This just goes to show there is always more than one way to skin a cat. I always score the outside edges so when it bends it doesn't bind. but you still got it done and your way looks way cleaner that way too. Turned out great!!!! Nice job
I just wanted the outside edges rolled instead of welded.
@@Andrewactual it looks really good that way
Metal saw blades has to run at a lower rpm than a wood saw blade....that’s why you ate it up.
You right!
Awesome beautiful craftsmanship.
Sweet build man turned out looking really nice! Also had never heard of Red Kote, so thanks for that!
My corvette drag racing buddy from the Z06 video turned me on to it! I’m about to coat my enduro tank with it too!
Very cool build, just recently found your channel. Awesome stuff!!
Nice, Just don’t forget to hose off the garage door that grinding dust rusts and sticks quick....
I didn’t pay much attention to that until one day my kid ran her hand across the closed door and made a less dirty spot, I ran to Lowe’s to get some soap you hook to the hose before the covenant saw!
Andrew Ralph yea I found out the hard way.....
Looks good man! I really appreciate all of your videos!
Sweet transfer tank. I noticed the crab too. I Subscribed.
Thanks and welcome!
Looks real good very creative
Great video thanks for sharing
$2.19 a gallon..... I hope we can get back to a better America soon! Today on Oct 22, 2022 it's right at $5 a gallon here in GA...
We are closer to $5.35 in Virginia
Great build man, i just wish the pump was orientated parallel to the tank somehow so the filter and the hoses were not sticking out that much... perhaps raise it and turn sideways... ? Just my thoughts, :)
Good idea, I figure I’ll iron some things out with use, I want to make a hose reel as well.
Get the Milwaukee 8" metal saw with a diablo metal blade and never look back.
I definitely want one! I haven’t had a lot of time lately for metal fabrication but I think I’m going to order one before my next project. Thanks for the recommendation
I wish you would have shown some of radius welding. My first weather guard tank leaked after three months, I would love to build one right like this.
Me too. The camera turned off unfortunately. It’s not light even empty but with 1/8” steel there is plenty of meat to weld. I’ve had a forklift slam into it while loading trailer axles and I let a 600# skid steer bucket slide into it gouging the steel but no leaks!
Super clean
I’ve been running my machines more lately at one location and it has been extremely handy to refuel the machines a couple times off one full tank.
Great job looks good and thank u for the video.
Beautiful job. I never heard of red coat. You said something bout air, did you pressure check it for leaks ❓❓❓
I didn’t pressure test, just filled it with soapy water and watched for leaks. Since the cap is vented it shouldn’t ever see pressure. The air I put through it overnight after removing the water to make sure it was dry before pouring in red coat tank sealer. Thank you!
Bad ass fab work man! Enjoyed the video
I can tell by the red spring in the vent cap you got the GPI, good for you. The Fill Rite vent caps ALWAYS leak when the tank is full. Very hard to keep it clean with diesel all over the place. The GPI cap has worked perfectly for me.
Sounds like I had some dumb luck with that purchase! Thanks for the info
Great video and awesome build!
Nice tank and good job with the video
Thank you for watching!
Plunge cutting in steel fucks the carbide blades even if meant for steel cutting like the evolution or Milwaukee saw thats a limitation to cutting steel with carbide blades
We can always buy something but its better to build it.
Awesome channel dude!
Yeah, let’s save some welding and do more grinding, lol.
Hind sight is more clear than fore sight!
do know if the dot will give you a hard time by building your own tank? i was thinking about building one as well.
I dug pretty deep into the requirements and what I lack if they care is a label stating who the manufacturer was (me) and I believe the statement “diesel tank” but because it is less than 119 gallons it does not require a placard. This is my personal understanding and I also understand that I am taking a responsibility by running that tank. I may get a label made to meet that requirement and fake the funk. I ran the first tank through it then pulled the plug and have been driving around with it for a couple months empty with no plug to see if I get negative attention which I have not.
I went down to the farm store to scope out one of these mandatory permanently affixed labels and it’s placement was against the front of the bed where it couldn’t be seen so... I’m going to run it until I get caught I guess.
@@Andrewactual i looked at the labels as well. probably not a big deal considering the quality of portable tanks
@@mikekisch5563 I agree. I’m not worried about it but only time will tell!
@@Andrewactual good information, I was wondering as well. I had no clue about the over 119 gal has to have placards. I plan on building a 100 gal tank out of 13 ga. I hope it is a sturdy as yours. Thanks for the video.
Nice work! Looks pro!
Is there a v shaped cutter that could put a better v cut at the seams that are bent to a 90?
There’s a tool for everything nowadays surly they make one.
Not that I have seen. A grinding wheel works pretty well though!
Great job
I remember right it's 234 cubic inches per gallon. Not 35. You're going to have a really tiny tank that will not fit anywhere close to 30 gallons
It worked out just over 30 gallons only filling to 90%, it’s been very handy to have around for filling my equipment and truck when needed.
Nice job.
Thanks!
We use that Red Coat on Sa200 old Gas Tanks.
Dude that tank is freaking awesome! Nice job. What did you coat the inside with?
Thank you, I’ve been putting fuel through it like crazy with the land clearing I’ve been doing and I can’t imagine not having it.
I put Red Kote Fuel Tank Sealer on the inside.
Osam
a bin laden?
Awsome Video 💯💯
beautiful
Lookin spiffy!
Nice one
What product did you coat the inside of tank with?
Red-Kote. Works awesome
Cool man !
Where did you get the fuel fill cap?
Local Big R, it’s like Tractor supply or a Buckeye but not quite as good.
They are readily available at most auto parts store too, sometimes they have to be ordered but they can get them as long as you used 2" npt for the fill port
You really need 100 gallons minimum
I wouldn’t want 100 gal on that truck unless the spare still fit underneath. The 35ish gallon tank has been great for me, more than I can use in a couple days in my machines. If I had a couple machines running at a time 35 gal would go quickly.
@@Andrewactual 35 gallons just doesn't get you very far
But I am in montana so perhaps it's different where your at
@@Beijingbiden yeah, I’m usually within 20 minutes of a fuel station around here. I can run any of my tractors all day on 8 gallons. If I was in the mountains I can definitely understand wanting more. I’m happy with 35 gallons and the spare tire on the bed. With a 100 gallon I’d lose most of that short bed. I do plan on looking into getting a couple hundred gallon tank at the farm.
What is your full time job if you don’t mind me asking
Army EOD
Nice work
What kind of saw horses are those?
Kobalt folding ones from Lowe’s. Advertised to hold 1100 pounds, I put them to the test on my flat bed build, it wasn’t heavy enough to max the 4 out but it wasn’t light!
www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-37-8-in-W-x-32-in-H-Adjustable-Steel-Saw-Horse-1-100-lb-Capacity/1001182062?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-tol-_-google-_-lia-_-217-_-worksupports-_-1001182062-_-0&placeholder=null&gclid=Cj0KCQiAtqL-BRC0ARIsAF4K3WEEPht__hecdlAl-0zcx9ui_sknBm0BHVD8hykDv1FDlYxUMCXaJAwaAu7oEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Awesome, thanks for the reply.
What does the red kote do
It’s like a membrane, seals up the little imperfections!
@@Andrewactual Is their more than one type of the red kote? In the Description on O’Reily’s it says not to use for biodiesel……
@@ajfreeze215 the only concern with diesel tanks is if you are sealing an old tank because the paraffin residue from the diesel fuel they recommend sand blasting. For a new tank it is okay to use for diesel, I see nothing mentioned on the website about biodiesel.
@@ajfreeze215 damonq.com/TechSheets/Red-Kote.pdf
🤔 I would have cut a piece of cardboard to shape as a template.
Why did I need a template?
@@Andrewactual you probably didn't. I however would have needed one.
Wonder what it weighs?
Empty or full?
I’d guess 150# empty. Just over 430# full.
@@Andrewactual Full should be easy to calculate if one knows the empty weight
You in Colorado?
Yep! For now