The most chilled and laid back mechanic iv seen on TH-cam. You are the kind of person I would feel confident leaving my car with. Thanks for the vid, I'm about to do my gasket myself today.
I have been chasing this issue for almost a week!!! Replaced the CCV on valve cover then all sorts of codes and issues came up! I’ll be replacing the valve cover and eccentric shaft sensor!!! P1006, P1030, 2A38 codes! And the BMW SUCTION whistle!! LOL
There are two things that makes your car stop running entirely. Thats the Eccentric Shaft sensor and Mass airflow sensor. The Eccentric Shaft sensor takes a bit of patience and skill to get to and remove, but the Mass airflow sensor can be tricky because when it goes bad the scanner doesn't detect it in the DTC.
Hello I have a question, I have a 2011 328xi sedan and I have like sorta miss. Now I’ve changed plugs, boots, fuel injectors and it still does it. It’s not reading and codes for engine. And strange thing is one second I’ll start it and drive for awhile and it’s like new, but then it starts that little flutter again. Love my car but help …. Oh it’s just got 100,008 miles on it. Thanks Allen
Mine sputtered/missed for a bit similar to what you describe before it was undriveable. It degraded pretty quick, it was probably only a few hundred KM once it started. I didn't have time to do work like you have. I don't recall if there were codes initially, but there where there when it got a little worse. Sorry I can't help you!
Thanks for the video. Very helpful. I did drop that third sensor bolt into the engine:(. I’ll have to pull the pan ne t week to see if I can find it. Otherwise she seems to be running well now
good tip! i had a strong magnet under it just in case, but a cloth would work better. if it landed on a cloth, it would be easy to fish out with a magnet after.
May I recommend taking apart the cowl on the passenger side of the engine bay so you can have more space next time you do this job. It is an easy two bolts and gives you just enough space to slide that valve cover underneath.
don't worry, it took me longer than 2 seconds too! first time I did it I was probably about the same as you. Omar in the comments recommends taking off the cowl to make it easier, but I haven't tried that yet.
Hello there, quick question, how much would you charge for everything you have done (without parts) in this video? I plan to grt an estimate ‘coz my bmw is already having a rough idle.
Parts were roughly $300 (it wasn't a genuine BMW sensor, but a VDO, which saved me some money), and it took me roughly 5 or 6 hours to do the job. Not sure what the book time is for the job, which is what a shop would charge. While not a specific cost estimate, hopefully that gives you a ballpark idea of how much. A rough idle could be caused by a number of different things, you might want to check the codes first.
I just had that same pcv breather break off from my valve cover. I JB welded it with some of their heat resistant epoxy. Have you had any issues with having your pcv breather glued with epoxy?
Mr McKerracher. I have a 2.5 litre second generation (black rocker cover) N52 engine, like the one in this video. My car has reduced fuel economy and doesn't have the change tone above 4k revs associated with variable valve timing. Is this likely a eccentric shaft sensor failure? My Carly delivers one fault code 002DE0.
Sorry, I'm not familiar with what could cause those symptoms. Fuel economy could be a number of things, from poor gas, worn plugs, or an air filter. I haven't ever experienced an issue like you describe associated with 4,000 rpm. I googled the code and didn't find anything, either.
Good job my friend I have a 07 bmw 328i with valve cover issues I was wondering id you don’t have a video with more details to guide me how to remove the valve cover step by step and all the tool that I will need to do this job Thank you
Thanks for good video, I have a question which VVT relrated codes did you got before doing this job? I got 2A31, 2A32, 2A33, 2A35 error and I am considering essentric shaft position sensor gasket first and then maybe the sensor... what do you think?
Pull the plug, if the connections look clean, it is probably the sensor, not the gasket. I had the 2A31 code. I had some other too, but the were all related to a low battery from reading codes and sitting without running for a bit.
The car was running rough, was down on power, and throwing codes indicating a faulty sensor. If all you have is a leaky gasket, no need to replace the sensor.
@@reileymckerracher9181 A leaky gasket can/will lead to oil contaminating the sensor at the plug. If you pull the plug from the sensor and see oil inside the connection, you'll need to replace the sensor as well. You won't need to pull the valve cover to do this.
not sure really, but it isn't cheap. this tread on e90 post should give you an idea. www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1079830 you to add to the valve cover job the eccentric sensor, which when you are already in that deep is minimal labour, but the part is pricey. here is a link for that: www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-eccentric-shaft-sensor-valvetronic-11377524879 note from bmw the part is even more.
I'm using the Carly app and dongle. Unfortunately it is subscription based now, so for a project every year or two it may not be for you. I bought it a long time ago when it was still a single up front payment.
Sorry, can't help on that one. I don't see it listed separately either (look at realoem.com). If there is no physical damage, I would try cleaning it before trying to splice in a new plug (a bit of oil/grime/grease in the pins could make an bad connection). You could try the wreckers too for a replacement as it might be hard to find on it's own.
No it isn't necessary to replace the coils and plugs. Make sure you have the plugs on top of the coils all they way in. Also make sure you have the battery charged up.
If I was in the market I would give ProTool a try. I haven't used it but I have heard good things about it. The Carly subscription is too expensive for the little I use it, luckily I bought it before it was subscription based and have a lifetime license.
HI did you disconnect the battery during the process, asking because I was wondering how I can remove valvetronic motor and put it back in without coding
No, I never disconnected the battery. I didn't reset it/code it either. I used these steps to remove it: 1. hex-key clockwise to resistance 2. unbolt unit completely 3. hex-key counter clockwise to pull-out point Install by: 4. position cam motor 5. hex-key clockwise to resistance 6. bolt unit completely. Then the opposite to put it back in. Hope that helps!
@@REPORODGE it started with a rough idle, then loss of power, then stall. once they symptoms started, it degraded fast. my commute to work is about 60km, and over the course of two days it got progressively worse until I parked it and waited on parts.
Thanks for the compliment! I'm using an android called Carly to read the codes (and the Carly Bluetooth dongle). The main code which identified the issue was 002A31 which is valvetronic sensor. I was also getting a 0029D1 (misfire on cylinder 5). I suspected I had a coil on the way out as I had the odd rough start when it was cold outside, and suspect that with the valvetronic sensor not working, it was enough to create a misfire where the weak coil was. This is why I replaced the coils as well. Intermittently I had a battery drain warning, but those would of been a result of me trying to diagnosing the issue resulting in a low battery level. I also had a gauge error pop up (00A559) but that would of been a result of the low battery. You get all sorts of interesting errors when the battery gets low.
I used a VDO replacement, not genuine BMW for the sensor. Almost a year since I replaced it and no issues. I do use genuine BMW seals. I have had some bad luck with 3rd party seals in the past on both the valve cover and the oil filter housing.
I'm not familiar with that car or parking sensors (never had a car with one). Sorry, not sure where to start on that one. Perhaps scan for codes and go from there.
I am having issues with the idle being high when the engine is cold. And the car feels slightly jerky/studdering and have a small loss of power, especially on lower RPMs. I am getting the code 2A43..
I googled the code and I'm not sure about that one, I never had a code for the motor like that. Could still be the sensor, or could be the motor. This page might be helpful to you: www.justanswer.com/bmw/7lt0o-328i-07-bmw-328i-idles-rough-driving.html
I'm not sure actually. You could have issues with downstream components getting crudded up with oil (specifically the PCV valve itself) or a oily intake, or be completely fine. Some oil would be fine (some would always go through), so the question is it too much. Sorry, I'm no help on this one.
@@reileymckerracher9181 wish I would have watched your video before doing the job. I actually had some JB weld sitting in the garage. Thanks for the video & for the info.
If this sensor has issues try to check of it is dirty mind was getting dirt because i used to poor oil without a funnel and i cleaned it with electric contact cleaner and now it is good with no code
You need to get it out. Try a magnet on a stick or on a string (although check one of the other bolts from the sensor to see if they are magnetic, I recall they are steel, no aluminum bolts). A borescope (even a cheap usb one) would be helpful. You could hope for the best that it dropped down to the pan, but worse case it is sitting on something critical and will crunch bad when the engine turns over resulting in some expensive repair bills. I've spent hours fishing for bolts, so don't feel bad, you aren't the only one. Specific to this bolt, you may find this interesting: www.bimmerfest.com/threads/eccentric-shaft-sensor-bolt-dropped.1300267/
I would plug a code reader in to see if you have any codes first as it could be a number of things. The eccentric shaft sensor in the video did cause a rough idle. Other things that can cause a rough idle include plugs, coils, and injectors. It could be as simple as a loose wiring connection too. There are other factors that could help narrow it down too, for example, is it only when the engine is cold?
@@reileymckerracher9181 if the engine have some pb to start when its cold, what could be the causes? Thanks for u videos and especially the details about the Valvetronic motor which is quite tricky apparently!
@@nicolasm6842 It could be a number of things, try looking for codes first, if no codes, then give the engine a good look over of anything amiss. A broken vacuum line or a coil pack submerged in oil (a leaky valve cover can do that) for example. Then you can start looking at plugs, coils, injectors, etc. as culprits. Google these items and see if you can narrow it down before spending money. It could be any number of things, it is pretty hard to diagnose without more detail or checking out the car/engine in person. Hopefully this gives you some ideas to start your troubleshooting.
@@nicolasm6842 I can't help there. I use the Carly app, but I bought a lifetime license for it before it became subscription based so probably not the best for you now. If you do a shout out on your local BMW facebook group, someone is usually willing to help out and read codes. An independent shop can do it too, but I'm not sure what one would charge.
It is called Carly on the android app store. I had to buy the matching dongle from the Carly website. Unfortunately they moved to subscription based model, I bought it when it was still a onetime lifetime cost. Using it for the odd oil change or service reset, probably not worth it, but it is easy to use!
So if you’re installing a new eccentric motor and and new sensor… I assume you DO have to re-learn the limits and there’s no way around that scenario? 😩
@@OlimitOli Not sure then, your past my expertise! maybe the motor (or calibration is needed), maybe the shaft sensor plug? maybe the vanos solenoid? the solenoid isn't that hard to clean. Sorry, I can't really help on this one! Although it doesn't align with the code, since you had it apart, check your spark plug boots, I did my valve cover gasket once, and one of the coil packs wasn't on correctly when I put it back together and cause a rough running condition.
Im getting 2a38 code vvt sluggish movement/open circuit any idea jus change valve gasket hope its not the sensor dnt feel like taking it off again anytime soon lol , help if u can
Sorry, I'm not sure about that one as that code pertains to the valvetronic motor. Since you just had the valve cover off, I would check all your electrical connections connections as a start.
@@reileymckerracher9181 hey im back , found out one problem to my vvt issue lose wire connection on battery , now will oil in the eccentric shaft sensor will it cause vvt sluggish movement / open circuit without throwing exact code for the sensor u think
@@coconytv after going over everything and checking over everything coming up with nothing finally took it to the dealer they put a new software update that took care of the problem
very bas advice, unmorally valve cover should be replace when you have a valve cover gasket leak, for 2 main reason , reason 1 , valve cover plastic will warp and it will cause more leaks, reason number 2 , the build in breath valve will deteriorate over time causing more idle problems
@@reileymckerracher9181 Nope . I mean the piece that came out when you removed the lid and then hit it with JB, what is it called? to be able to buy it
@@ericcamacho3810 That I don't know! The parts diagrams don't show it separate either. www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=PK53-USA-01-2010-E90N-BMW-328xi&diagId=11_3737
the piece that had come out -once placed with the JB glue ((( if you blow through the hole it doesn't let air in - but if you suck if it lets air in, is that how it works? (( in theory you would have to let the gases out inside out )))
The most chilled and laid back mechanic iv seen on TH-cam. You are the kind of person I would feel confident leaving my car with. Thanks for the vid, I'm about to do my gasket myself today.
Thanks so much!
😂😂😂 but customers like you are hard to deal with
All the searching I’ve done this video Thoroughly explain this replacement to a Tee thanks my guy 💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾
I'm glad the video helped!
I have been chasing this issue for almost a week!!! Replaced the CCV on valve cover then all sorts of codes and issues came up! I’ll be replacing the valve cover and eccentric shaft sensor!!! P1006, P1030, 2A38 codes! And the BMW SUCTION whistle!! LOL
I didn't have a whistle, but hopefully you get your car sorted! It is so frustrating when you can't find the actual issue!
There are two things that makes your car stop running entirely. Thats the Eccentric Shaft sensor and Mass airflow sensor. The Eccentric Shaft sensor takes a bit of patience and skill to get to and remove, but the Mass airflow sensor can be tricky because when it goes bad the scanner doesn't detect it in the DTC.
Good job. Love the thorughness and calm explanations.
Thank!
Doing this repair now video is helping a ton thanks man
Glad it helped!
Great! - always change the Valvetronic motor gasket too -
Agreed! Always replace that gasket too if you have the valvetronic motor off!
Love the video! I appreciate the effort you put in.
thanks for the kind comments!
Hello I have a question, I have a 2011 328xi sedan and I have like sorta miss. Now I’ve changed plugs, boots, fuel injectors and it still does it. It’s not reading and codes for engine. And strange thing is one second I’ll start it and drive for awhile and it’s like new, but then it starts that little flutter again. Love my car but help …. Oh it’s just got 100,008 miles on it. Thanks Allen
Mine sputtered/missed for a bit similar to what you describe before it was undriveable. It degraded pretty quick, it was probably only a few hundred KM once it started. I didn't have time to do work like you have. I don't recall if there were codes initially, but there where there when it got a little worse. Sorry I can't help you!
Great vid, I will be tackling this project soon!
Thanks!
Valvetronic motor did spin out when we removed it before taking the valve cover off to replace it . We didn’t replace the eccentric sensor
Very good experience
Same problem My car
Easy help thanks guys
Thanks!
Thanks for the video. Very helpful. I did drop that third sensor bolt into the engine:(. I’ll have to pull the pan ne t week to see if I can find it. Otherwise she seems to be running well now
I'm glad it helped you! Too bad about the bolt, taking off the oil pan is not a fun job, maybe you'll get it when the oil is drained?
@@reileymckerracher9181 I was thinking the same thing. Fingers crossed
Hope it came out with the oil. Taking the pan off is a nightmare.
I used to push long clean cloth under the working zone and managed to catch screws few times when I dropped them accidentally.
good tip! i had a strong magnet under it just in case, but a cloth would work better. if it landed on a cloth, it would be easy to fish out with a magnet after.
May I recommend taking apart the cowl on the passenger side of the engine bay so you can have more space next time you do this job. It is an easy two bolts and gives you just enough space to slide that valve cover underneath.
Good to know, thanks! I didn't realize that back piece came off so easy, a few extra mm and putting the valve cover back on would be so much easier!
Very helpful. Nice job. Thks
Thanks! I appreciate the feedback!
Your 2 second time lapse of putting the VC back in took me an hour, this was way worse than doing valve covers on my 03 WRX which is pretty awful
don't worry, it took me longer than 2 seconds too! first time I did it I was probably about the same as you. Omar in the comments recommends taking off the cowl to make it easier, but I haven't tried that yet.
JUST THE VIDEO I NEEEDDD, code P1056 and 105B
I'm glad it helped!
Very helpful. Thank you.
Hello there, quick question, how much would you charge for everything you have done (without parts) in this video? I plan to grt an estimate ‘coz my bmw is already having a rough idle.
Parts were roughly $300 (it wasn't a genuine BMW sensor, but a VDO, which saved me some money), and it took me roughly 5 or 6 hours to do the job. Not sure what the book time is for the job, which is what a shop would charge. While not a specific cost estimate, hopefully that gives you a ballpark idea of how much.
A rough idle could be caused by a number of different things, you might want to check the codes first.
I just had that same pcv breather break off from my valve cover. I JB welded it with some of their heat resistant epoxy.
Have you had any issues with having your pcv breather glued with epoxy?
Not yet, but I haven't had the valve cover off since then either to see it.
Mr McKerracher. I have a 2.5 litre second generation (black rocker cover) N52 engine, like the one in this video. My car has reduced fuel economy and doesn't have the change tone above 4k revs associated with variable valve timing. Is this likely a eccentric shaft sensor failure? My Carly delivers one fault code 002DE0.
Sorry, I'm not familiar with what could cause those symptoms. Fuel economy could be a number of things, from poor gas, worn plugs, or an air filter. I haven't ever experienced an issue like you describe associated with 4,000 rpm. I googled the code and didn't find anything, either.
Good job my friend
I have a 07 bmw 328i with valve cover issues I was wondering id you don’t have a video with more details to guide me how to remove the valve cover step by step and all the tool that I will need to do this job
Thank you
Thanks for the feedback!
Nicely done
hi I would like to know. What is the name of the pcv breather? - ((( allows air to enter or air out of the vent ?? ))
Thanks for good video, I have a question which VVT relrated codes did you got before doing this job? I got 2A31, 2A32, 2A33, 2A35 error and I am considering essentric shaft position sensor gasket first and then maybe the sensor... what do you think?
Pull the plug, if the connections look clean, it is probably the sensor, not the gasket. I had the 2A31 code. I had some other too, but the were all related to a low battery from reading codes and sitting without running for a bit.
Great video!
Now why did you change the valvetronic essentric sensors? Can you explain or since we change the gasket well as mine change the whole things.
The car was running rough, was down on power, and throwing codes indicating a faulty sensor. If all you have is a leaky gasket, no need to replace the sensor.
@@reileymckerracher9181 A leaky gasket can/will lead to oil contaminating the sensor at the plug. If you pull the plug from the sensor and see oil inside the connection, you'll need to replace the sensor as well. You won't need to pull the valve cover to do this.
hey there, how much should a mecanic charge to do this job? I have several codes coming up : 2a31, 2a32, FF00 at first and recently the P1017...
not sure really, but it isn't cheap. this tread on e90 post should give you an idea.
www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1079830
you to add to the valve cover job the eccentric sensor, which when you are already in that deep is minimal labour, but the part is pricey. here is a link for that:
www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-eccentric-shaft-sensor-valvetronic-11377524879
note from bmw the part is even more.
Fantastic
Thanks
Hi what code scanner is that it looks handy and looks easy to use
I'm using the Carly app and dongle. Unfortunately it is subscription based now, so for a project every year or two it may not be for you. I bought it a long time ago when it was still a single up front payment.
Hi do you no what the name for exterior plug into eccentric shaft sensor . I think that is my problem . Thanks jamie .
Newzealand
Sorry, can't help on that one. I don't see it listed separately either (look at realoem.com). If there is no physical damage, I would try cleaning it before trying to splice in a new plug (a bit of oil/grime/grease in the pins could make an bad connection). You could try the wreckers too for a replacement as it might be hard to find on it's own.
We replaced our valve cover do we need to replace coils and plugs . It won’t start. Replaced the battery.
No it isn't necessary to replace the coils and plugs. Make sure you have the plugs on top of the coils all they way in. Also make sure you have the battery charged up.
We replaced the battery it’s 100% charged
Would you still recommend I Carly for bmw e90 I still do not have a scanner and want to buy one but this subscription thing is a money grab
If I was in the market I would give ProTool a try. I haven't used it but I have heard good things about it. The Carly subscription is too expensive for the little I use it, luckily I bought it before it was subscription based and have a lifetime license.
HI did you disconnect the battery during the process, asking because I was wondering how I can remove valvetronic motor and put it back in without coding
No, I never disconnected the battery. I didn't reset it/code it either. I used these steps to remove it:
1. hex-key clockwise to resistance
2. unbolt unit completely
3. hex-key counter clockwise to pull-out point
Install by:
4. position cam motor
5. hex-key clockwise to resistance
6. bolt unit completely.
Then the opposite to put it back in. Hope that helps!
Great video
Thanks!
@@reileymckerracher9181 Great vid was the symptom just rough idel? or stall! hot cold better worse thanx
@@REPORODGE it started with a rough idle, then loss of power, then stall. once they symptoms started, it degraded fast. my commute to work is about 60km, and over the course of two days it got progressively worse until I parked it and waited on parts.
@@reileymckerracher9181 thanx bud lets get you to 2 hundred subs im 1 because of the info!!
@@REPORODGE thanks man! I appreciate the support!
Hi, which scanner are you using? Which code was for the eccentric cam sensor ?
Great video...
Thanks for the compliment!
I'm using an android called Carly to read the codes (and the Carly Bluetooth dongle).
The main code which identified the issue was 002A31 which is valvetronic sensor.
I was also getting a 0029D1 (misfire on cylinder 5). I suspected I had a coil on the way out as I had the odd rough start when it was cold outside, and suspect that with the valvetronic sensor not working, it was enough to create a misfire where the weak coil was. This is why I replaced the coils as well.
Intermittently I had a battery drain warning, but those would of been a result of me trying to diagnosing the issue resulting in a low battery level. I also had a gauge error pop up (00A559) but that would of been a result of the low battery. You get all sorts of interesting errors when the battery gets low.
Great video
Did u was the replacement eccentric sensor OEM or a money saving one?
Need to know if cheap ones are any good
I used a VDO replacement, not genuine BMW for the sensor. Almost a year since I replaced it and no issues. I do use genuine BMW seals. I have had some bad luck with 3rd party seals in the past on both the valve cover and the oil filter housing.
Hi m8 I got bmw 645ci after a bt drive car enjn light comes up and pdc sensors stop working and car loss power ..
Hi have you found the faults ..I got 645ci same issue
I'm not familiar with that car or parking sensors (never had a car with one). Sorry, not sure where to start on that one. Perhaps scan for codes and go from there.
I am having issues with the idle being high when the engine is cold. And the car feels slightly jerky/studdering and have a small loss of power, especially on lower RPMs. I am getting the code 2A43..
I googled the code and I'm not sure about that one, I never had a code for the motor like that. Could still be the sensor, or could be the motor. This page might be helpful to you: www.justanswer.com/bmw/7lt0o-328i-07-bmw-328i-idles-rough-driving.html
I don't understand dis 55C3 and 54C6 please check it for me
3:55 I did the same thing. PCV Breather came off while removing valve cover.. I just installed it without it. How bad of a problem would this be?..
I'm not sure actually. You could have issues with downstream components getting crudded up with oil (specifically the PCV valve itself) or a oily intake, or be completely fine. Some oil would be fine (some would always go through), so the question is it too much. Sorry, I'm no help on this one.
@@reileymckerracher9181 wish I would have watched your video before doing the job. I actually had some JB weld sitting in the garage. Thanks for the video & for the info.
What is the reading tool that you used.?
Carly Scanner. I bought it when was still a life time license, I believe it is now subscription though so you may want to shop around.
If this sensor has issues try to check of it is dirty mind was getting dirt because i used to poor oil without a funnel and i cleaned it with electric contact cleaner and now it is good with no code
good suggestion, thanks for the tip!
So I ended up dropping the eccentric shaft sensor screw. What will happen if I leave it there?
You need to get it out. Try a magnet on a stick or on a string (although check one of the other bolts from the sensor to see if they are magnetic, I recall they are steel, no aluminum bolts). A borescope (even a cheap usb one) would be helpful. You could hope for the best that it dropped down to the pan, but worse case it is sitting on something critical and will crunch bad when the engine turns over resulting in some expensive repair bills.
I've spent hours fishing for bolts, so don't feel bad, you aren't the only one. Specific to this bolt, you may find this interesting:
www.bimmerfest.com/threads/eccentric-shaft-sensor-bolt-dropped.1300267/
My car started running again but still has a slightly rough idle what could it be?
I would plug a code reader in to see if you have any codes first as it could be a number of things. The eccentric shaft sensor in the video did cause a rough idle. Other things that can cause a rough idle include plugs, coils, and injectors. It could be as simple as a loose wiring connection too. There are other factors that could help narrow it down too, for example, is it only when the engine is cold?
@@reileymckerracher9181 if the engine have some pb to start when its cold, what could be the causes? Thanks for u videos and especially the details about the Valvetronic motor which is quite tricky apparently!
@@nicolasm6842 It could be a number of things, try looking for codes first, if no codes, then give the engine a good look over of anything amiss. A broken vacuum line or a coil pack submerged in oil (a leaky valve cover can do that) for example. Then you can start looking at plugs, coils, injectors, etc. as culprits. Google these items and see if you can narrow it down before spending money. It could be any number of things, it is pretty hard to diagnose without more detail or checking out the car/engine in person. Hopefully this gives you some ideas to start your troubleshooting.
@@reileymckerracher9181 do u recommand a good tool for diagnosise?
@@nicolasm6842 I can't help there. I use the Carly app, but I bought a lifetime license for it before it became subscription based so probably not the best for you now. If you do a shout out on your local BMW facebook group, someone is usually willing to help out and read codes. An independent shop can do it too, but I'm not sure what one would charge.
Where did you get your parts from
www.fcpeuro.com/
What is the software or app that you use on your phone to read and clear codes
It is called Carly on the android app store. I had to buy the matching dongle from the Carly website. Unfortunately they moved to subscription based model, I bought it when it was still a onetime lifetime cost. Using it for the odd oil change or service reset, probably not worth it, but it is easy to use!
So if you’re installing a new eccentric motor and and new sensor… I assume you DO have to re-learn the limits and there’s no way around that scenario? 😩
With a new motor I believe you are right. I've never done that though so I'm not positive.
@@reileymckerracher9181 thank you, I appreciate your time!
I need help, i`ve got the error 2a43. Can someone help me. I already changed the Eccentric shaft sensor.
How does the car run? You could try clearing it an seeing if it comes back. If you just did some work on it, it may need to be cleared.
It’s running rough, the eccentric shaft sensor ist new, I think it could be the Motor but I’m not sure.
@@OlimitOli Not sure then, your past my expertise! maybe the motor (or calibration is needed), maybe the shaft sensor plug? maybe the vanos solenoid? the solenoid isn't that hard to clean. Sorry, I can't really help on this one!
Although it doesn't align with the code, since you had it apart, check your spark plug boots, I did my valve cover gasket once, and one of the coil packs wasn't on correctly when I put it back together and cause a rough running condition.
Im getting 2a38 code vvt sluggish movement/open circuit any idea jus change valve gasket hope its not the sensor dnt feel like taking it off again anytime soon lol , help if u can
Sorry, I'm not sure about that one as that code pertains to the valvetronic motor. Since you just had the valve cover off, I would check all your electrical connections connections as a start.
@@reileymckerracher9181 hey im back , found out one problem to my vvt issue lose wire connection on battery , now will oil in the eccentric shaft sensor will it cause vvt sluggish movement / open circuit without throwing exact code for the sensor u think
@@michaelcondrey8681 i have 2a38, what ended up being your solution?
@@coconytv after going over everything and checking over everything coming up with nothing finally took it to the dealer they put a new software update that took care of the problem
Where buy eccentric shap sensor buddy
i ordered online from fcpeuro, but that was 3 years ago now! your prefered parts supplier for your BMW should be able to get it.
Ia This e90 lci ? Facelift ?
2010 328xi, all stock.
Can I reuse the bolts?
Yes, I reused mine.
@@reileymckerracher9181 I believe post 2006 the bolts are steel and not aluminum. They are designed to be reused, unless they are broken.
@@zo4712 my bolts were all steel.
Where you located
Calgary, Alberta.
them valve covers warp after time,instead of gluing it a new one would not have been a loss
It would have been a loss of a lot of money
Ok
very bas advice, unmorally valve cover should be replace when you have a valve cover gasket leak, for 2 main reason , reason 1 , valve cover plastic will warp and it will cause more leaks, reason number 2 , the build in breath valve will deteriorate over time causing more idle problems
Great video keep it up.
hi I would like to know. What is the name of the pcv breather? - ((( allows air to enter or air out of the vent ?? ))
Do you mean what PCV stand for? Positive Crankcase Ventilation.
@@reileymckerracher9181 Nope . I mean the piece that came out when you removed the lid and then hit it with JB, what is it called? to be able to buy it
@@reileymckerracher9181 is in the video recording 4:00
@@ericcamacho3810 That I don't know! The parts diagrams don't show it separate either. www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=PK53-USA-01-2010-E90N-BMW-328xi&diagId=11_3737
the piece that had come out -once placed with the JB glue ((( if you blow through the hole it doesn't let air in - but if you suck if it lets air in, is that how it works? (( in theory you would have to let the gases out inside out )))