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Agreed! Only so much time for a youtube short, though. I do use a low voltage cutoff relay set to 10.5v with the LiFePO4 battery pack.

Depending on cell type you may want to discharge and recharge completely to keep the BMS calibrated. I had this issue with an ecoflow delta mini I use for the same purpose.

Thanks! I looked at Ecoflow when they were selling refurbished units on eBay, but I always like DIY solutions! A Jackery is a good solution too, and it would be more user-friendly than I did.

Hard to tell without seeing it. Could be the plug isn't seated, a bad fuse, bad regulator/resistor, or something deeper. A volt meter would be required to diagnose deeper.

@ its fine i got it in, the allignment was off in one spot all the time just needed to press on all sides

@@RoastedOnion17 Glad you got it, thanks for the update!

@@ucdred1 thank you!

@@ikaizo7555 Thanks!

Thanks for asking, still holding strong!

Thank you!

Thanks!

It will, but I wanted to keep to a line of sight distance which is why I measured signal strength instead. I was flying close to the ground as well, which has a significant impact on range. I don't fly distance and am more interested in how far I can get while still being close to the ground and investigating trees, structures, etc.

@@reileymckerracher9181 Aha ok !! Thank´s for answering...

Depends on what your current pad is made of. If it is metal of some sort, ground it like I did in the video, otherwise, perhaps try a different surface. Lastly, you could just try and remember to touch a grounded metal surface before you touch your mouse, your computer case an example, should be metal and grounded.

Sorry no, I didn't have to source a new one.

Glad it helped! Thanks!

Thanks!

You would be right on the limit, so I would avoid it. Might work, might work for a flight or two, might die. The WS VTX can use up to 1.2A at 5V by itself, plus whatever the board itself uses. If you are running 2s or 3s, I would power the WS VTX directly off bat. I did a video on the current/consumption of the WS board here: th-cam.com/video/PHJ1U9iK2N4/w-d-xo.html

@@reileymckerracher9181 Thanks for answering! I found the manual for my board and it shows how to disable the in-build analog VTX and solder what looks like a Walksnail board to the TX1, RX1, 5V and Ground. It's my first time dealing with WS and I read some reports of their boards frying when connected directly to a battery (current spike ?). I use 2S HV for this quad (8.7V max) and there is a 16v100uf capacitor soldered to the AIO.

@@kmieciu4ever You should be fine running directly off bat with 2s HV and a cap. I run 3s with a cap on one of my walksnail quads and haven't had an issue. If you do go with the WS VTX to the onboard BEC, I would try and keep your TX power 200 or lower.

Great tip! Might be something for others to try depending on what is bad. I had mine apart a few time before this for squeaks, I don't think it was coming back to life. :)

Try a different usb port maybe? I haven't used mine in 2 or 3 years. I did dig it up my old stick and plugged it in and it flashes red like it should. Another idea, plug it into a USB charger and see if it lights up (mine flashes red). That should help narrow down if the issue is with the stick or with the port/power.

One more thought: maybe plug it in while holding the bind button and see if the green LED comes on.

I double-checked it, and it is working. If you are still having problems with the link, find my contact info on my 'about' page, send me a message, and I can send it directly to you. Note that the code should be updated to reflect modifying the ethernet.h file is no longer required with the new version of the esp32 board manager.

I'm glad it helped!

Great job! It always feels great to do it yourself and save that kind of money!

You would still want the motor locked in (there would be a fair bit of torque when it spins up), but you could test before putting the cover/trim back on. I wasn't worried about it not working since it was a complete replacement. If I had done just the motor or the heater resistor, testing before assembly would be a good idea.

thanks!

Thanks! I use standard(25) bitrate, 1080p resolution, standard (60) fps, sharpness, I'm not sure, but whatever the default is, and focus mode off.

@@reileymckerracher9181 Thanks!

Thanks for watching, I'm glad you found it useful!

Thanks for video Reiley. I'm trying to make a project that uses ESP32 devkit + w5500 with 128x64 lcd. I want to use Arduino IDE v2.3.2, esp32 board manager v3.0.3 but I don't wanna use esp32's ETH.h lib. because it uses extra rst and IRQ pins. Is it safe to use same wiring with Ethernet library v2.0.2? Did you had any problem with Arduino IDE v2.3.2, esp32 board manager v3.0.3 and Ethernet library v2.0.2?

@@WebSpiderTeam.G It is the same wiring, no changes from what I show in the video. No problem with Arduino IDE v2.3.2, esp32 board manager v3.0.3 and Ethernet library v2.0.2. My understanding is the esp32's ETH.h lib expects different hardware and won't work with the w5500 regardless of wiring.

@@reileymckerracher9181 thanks for everything. I will try it but with only one difference I have found EthernetESP32 library. It uses same ethernet library but supports manual pin configuration and Enc Ethernet support also. I hope one day this information helps you as a return for your help. Thank you again

No problem!

Awesome!!

Thanks so much!

Water isn't a great conductor, so it doesn't mean instant death. It definitely isn't good for it, and I have lost flight controllers this way before, but this one survived! This flight controller is still flying today, although the Walksnail VTX gave it up a few months later, I suspect corrosion from the swim did it in. I should have rinsed/cleaned it afterward, and I may have saved it, too.

I believe the part number is WE12M29. Specifically, I bought this one: www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07KPLS47S?th=1

Thanks for the kind words!

Seems to be working now; if it still doesn't work for you and you would like a copy, feel free to message me!

glad you found it useful, thanks for the kind words!

i would go with the optical port (SPDIF) since you have the dac already. that is actually how I run my dac right now. you can't get ground hum over an optical cable! if you go with an isolator try to determine what speed it runs at and that it will accommodate the bitrate you need, some of the isolators (like the one in my video) only run at usb 1 speeds. you could try the onboard audio and see what it sounds like. some of the newer computers have pretty good audio onboard.

@@reileymckerracher9181 thanks for the quick response! I actually bought an SMSL SU-1 to supplant my computer's realtek audio chip. I think I'll take your advice and just use an SPDIF cable, I don't think the difference in sound quality (besides ground hum) will be audible :)

@@tw_judy nice DAC! the spdif is pcm audio, so youll miss out on mqa, but unless you are using tidal or equivalent, no real loss, i doubt youll hear a difference even if you were.

No, mine barely gets warm. I still use it and just plugged it in to check, and after 5 minutes, it was barely warmer than room temperature.

The jitterbug passively removes electrical noise; it doesn't perform full isolation. I have used similar filters (like the jitterbug) for car audio, improving background hum/grounding issues with varying limited success. Why doesn't the jitterbug help your situation? I'm not sure, sorry!

@@reileymckerracher9181 my GPU produces a lot of noise, that i can hear through my speakers. My next step is trying galvanic isolation with a usb to optical converter to my DAC :(

@@vinpin My GPU has a bunch of coil wine, too. Too bad they don't design them a little better! Thankfully, I don't get it through on my DAC. I'm actually using a spdif optical cable for my DAC now, not the USB isolation, and a separate power supply. no ground hum wtih the optical cable!

@@reileymckerracher9181 seems likes thats the fix, thank!

I don't notice, but I'm not a racer, I'm a pretty casual/slow flyer. I'm flying digital so there would be some latency from that as well, but I don't notice that either. There is more selection for the 2.4ghz as it is more common. The 900mhz is still easy to get, lots of options on aliexpress, just not as much as 2.4ghz.

What Rx are you using for 900?

@@ahmetyasli8580 happymodel es915rx

Thanks!

I'm glad the video helped! I bought my belt from Amazon.

Just a guess, but try turning down the quality in Windows. I know some of those dongles will run at 32bit, which is probably too much data for the isolator. try at 16bit.

@@reileymckerracher9181 at higher resolutions it doesnt even have sound,its weird cause the dongle is working without the isolator but looks like they just dont work toghter

@@reileymckerracher9181 still not working, it's weird cause the dongle is working fine so is the isolator but both combine didn't work

@@gs-nq6mw that is weird, sorry I'm not much help. hard to troubleshoot without the hardware in hand.

I started with a 3d printer first, that is where I got the idea!

the adum3160 operates at usb1 speeds, so it has a max of 12Mbps. 32bit 192khz audio (in stereo) is 11.7Mbps so you you would be right at the limit. I'm not sure if it would work. I would look for an isolator based on the adum3165 or adum3166 to get 480Mbps then it should be fine.

Glad I could help, thanks for the feedback!