You won't notice an immediate difference right when you add the Lucas. Just drive it, let the engine oil/lucas mix up, and then make a video of a cold start with the oil/lucas mixture. I would be very curious. Very great video. I'm actually testing Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer in my car and I am going to review it sometime in the future. Maybe in like 2-3 months.
I just add about a cup of Auto Transmission fluid about a week before I change the oil . It has a high detergent factory and helps carry the particles to the filter . When I change the oil , I put the plug back in then add add about 1-2 pints of fresh cheap oil let it sit for a bit then drain that off , you would be surprised at how dirty it is from the remain old oil . Last change I went for some Lucas and some 10-40 Synthetic oil ( normally 5-30 ) . It certainly ran smother and is quite now even after 5,000 mile in a Chevy L77 V8 .with 130,000 miles . BUT I must admit my car starts on Petrol ( in the US is called Gas ) , then switches to LPG. Vehicles I have had that run on LPG ( Propaine ) don't contaminate the oil , it's the fuel that leaks past the rings that breaks down the oil and sludges up an engine . The Lucas stabiliser tends to stay on the cam and lifter so they are lubricated right at the start .
I’ve been using motor medic motor flush and Lucas since new, I now have 80,000 miles and my engine. It runs like it only has 450,000 miles on it! Thank you motor medic and Lucas!
So, you have been using Motor Medic since new and your engine has 80,000 miles on it but it runs like it has "only" 450,000 miles on it! That don't sound good to me!
I have used Motor Medic on my 94 chevy pick up for 24 years , I have 314,000 miles on it . The way to use it is have your oil level a quart low , add the flush and run the motor for 6 to 7 mins , then change the oil . This stuff is not transmission fluid
These are the same products I’ve stuck to my whole life.. my 4 bangers dint like the Lucas stabilizer like my v6 and v8 but they like seafoam in the oil and Lucas injector additive in gas. I just never seen a Lucas injector demo like you’re so thank you
The only thing I would have done different is to run the Lucas Synthetic additive instead of the regular Lucas if you are using the Mobil 1 synthetic oil.
You could get the same flush results with a quart of mineral spirits and probably cheaper too. If your changing oil every 3k anything will work. You will get the same result from plain 5-30 as Mobil1. I add a pint of Liquid Wrench to the oil 100 miles before a change to clean the motor out. Drain very well and use a good filter. 200-250 miles later change filter just to be sure it doesn't plug up with anything else breaking free after the Liquid Wrench loosens it. I think the sewing machine sound you have is mechanical though.
I use the whole bottle of flush for a V8 02 explorer. Works great just flush leftover flush with hlf quart of clean oil. Finish draining, change filter and fill back up
1) engine should be Hot, it's written on any Oil Flush i've used ever. 2) Don't worry about oil level when applying Flush. 3) Some engines (such as LS) with high volume of the oil will need 2 bottles of Oil Flush
Ok so I had to stop because of the way you said " Don't Go Above Halfway" , lol you put emphasis on it.. So you can't do that without at least telling us why not... Dying... First video of his I've seen, and I really like this Guy.. Definitely a new Subscriber.. Don't breed em like dat there uh no more... Awesome vid Bruh..
Lol great video, I have used the motor flush with good and bad results, as far as the ingredients of the motor flush I always thought it was 90% diesel lol the ingredients says petroleum products but not how much lol. my bad experience with the stuff was putting it in a high mileage engine that had never been cleaned, it broke the carbon buildup down nod stopped the oil pickup screen in the engine up, I had to pull the oil pan and put New oil pump and screen in it so be carfull, carbon is just as abrasive as sand.
There's shouldn't be any carbon anywhere in your oil lol Carbon comes from your combustion chamber and should only be in that area. Mainly on valves and pistons
Blow bye, crank case ventilation, the rings don't deal 100% and the higher the mileage the more blow buy you get, carbon will buildup in the bottom of an engine, I have seen it.
@@raymondsimpson7433 Ok, fair enough. I guess after I read thought my comment it kinda clicked in my brain lol Your absolutely right and I stand corrected. I remember now seeing built up carbon in lifter valleys around exhaust ports on the heads and intake runners that also could just fall down into the system too when working on it. Guess that's another good reason to buy quality filters also. Thanks for correcting me, honestly don't know how that even came into my thought process
Lol I'm not correcting you, I'm just saying what I've seen, a mechanic doing warranty work on low mileage car will probably never see it. All the engine I have worked on was 300,000 + mileage and you are right it's always at the top and falls to the bottom.
it will, because it thickens up the oil, but that isnt the fix, the fix is to change oil regularly, use a good oil and use the recommended oil, a good engine flush followed by an oil change would probably be better, I guess on a high millage car, it doesnt really matter
I have my doubts one the stabilizers and some additives but my transmission on my 2007 Hyundai Elantra and all other fluids I need to flush the car was poorly maintained. I want to do a over haul on all the fluids first off . I race the car on dirt tracks I'm gonna put hard miles on it bit I'm a bit worried about some issues about the Hyundai after it hits over 100,000 miles the motor sounds strong bit I'm having trouble shifting and it has trouble going into reverse. It's a 5 speed transmission. I used to race dodges so I'm a little new to the Hyundai game. I'm learning quickly but I'm afraid to hurt or do some cutting to my harness that will later on down the road cause me issues. I'm a bit skeptical. I just want to k ow I have the heater core bare and ready to disconnect I'll get a full 180 pre bent hose so it doesn't collapse on me my main worries are that the transmission gets a proper flush and tune my clutch works fairly well some times I miss second if I hot throws to high it wont shift into second. I take good care of my cars I run them on the track after that its mainly setting. But I'm also starting to hear that knocking too. Its worrying me
I've watched a few of your videos and they are well documented. We don't get many of these products in the UK. Do we have additives you don't get in the states?
Pretty cool demo Nate. I like the dust mask demo of all that came out of the crankcase. Also, is it really necessary to change the Mobil 1 every 3,000 miles? I think you can safely go to 5,000. Advertised to protect for 15,000. Just wondering. Thanks for sharing.
The Kucas oil stabilizer is thick, and modern engines require a thin oil. The synthetic oil everything your engine needs. Unless the engine is burning oil because it is worn out. Thicker oil may not get past the rings and seals as much. Save yourself time and money and just use full synthetic at the mfg recommended viscosity.
you got the cheaper lucas oil. the one i have is non synthetic and its much more thicker, its also easier to mix it in with oil before you pour it in the block it mixes itself up better and wont get gunked up one valves and shit.
I really can´t see any sound difference. Maybe the fresh oil was cooler and more viscous. Maybe you knock off some dirt from the filter by rupturing the media with that pink querosene flush.
You are caring for older high mileage engines? My old ones get that treatment. I just use a bit of lucas to show coat on dipstick when cold. No more rattle starts! Not too thick in winter.
I did this about 20 years ago except I changed the oil first added 1 qt of oil then the flush then filled the oil, ran it for 5min or so whatever it said then changed the oil again. It seemed to work fine although the vehicle didn't have problems to begin with it just had high mileage then I did the exact same thing on a vehicle I purchased that had high mileage because the oil looked dirty not long after I changed it. The oil never really got dirty again however it did start leaking oil like crazy. In all fairness it did leak oil beforehand but it got much worse. Anyway I've heard conflicted stories about doing this but I have an old Nissan truck I use around the farm and would like to do this but it has over 350,000mi and I'm kinda nervous about doing it.
If you are going to do a engine oil flush. You want to do it with fresh oil and filter. And you are doing 2 oil changes. One with flush. 2nd one with out
He doesn't have racecar stop tweaking lol stock engine oil ratios are close enough. if he mixed the lucas into the oil before hand it wouldn't made a lick of a shit of difference
Just did this except use marvel mystery instead of the lucas. I also added all of the motor flush. Don't know if it damaged anything dont think so, ill update if anything tho.
Instructions on the motor flush says put in cold engine add full bottle let run for 5min so drain out a quart of oil then add the flush to make the oil level is at the full mark on the dip stick
Mobile 1 is a proven top line oil, Amsoil is better by a small margin but doesn't cost much more. However Amsoil is awfully hyped up for what it is and just barely beats Mobile 1 with the additional additives. If you want the best then try Redlines oils they blow all the leading oils out of the water
Thad’s just a waist of Money you just pay for the name with that stuff I use conventional Mobile one With some Lucas addatives and change the oil every 3000 miles and I already have 350,000k on my car original engine and have never done any work on it
I usually flush my engine with diesel or with transmission fluid. Let the car idle for 10 minutes and then drain and fill back up with fresh engine oil.
It all depends on the condition of the engine. But if three consecutive flushes (after three consecutive oil changes) cannot get the job done, then no amount of engine flush will ever do!
The procedure that I follow is as such: 1. Completely drain the engine oil from the engine. 2. Fill to the mark with diesel or ATF. 3. Run at idle for 10 minutes. 4. Completely drain the engine from the flushing agent. 5. Replace the oil filter and add fresh engine oil. One thing to consider, if the engine is very gunked-up then you may need to remove the oil pan and clean the oil pick up screen from any obstructions. This process could be repeated as many times as necessary and at every oil change interval. Of course, as I said earlier, if three consecutive engine flushes couldn't get the job done then an alternative method should be considered. Cheers,
Motor flush. Stay sway from this stuff. If, that's if, you have to use it. Use it on clean oil. I would use Supertech since its good quality oil but cheaper than Mobile 1. Make sure its recommended oil with only half the bottle of flush. ATF on idle for 15- 20 minutes does a safer and better job. You can do 50/50 ATF and engine oil or all ATF. Make sure you add new oil filter before and after.
NATES INTERACTIVE AUTO Techninician @ Nissan shared this method with me about 20 years ago. Its a method used by mechanics for past 50 years. Also run 3 quarts of engine oil with 1 quart of ATF. For about 100 miles. Drain and fill with new oil. 3 to 1 ratio is to build oil pressure.
Watch best oil proof th-cam.com/video/pjF1sJ5VeXM/w-d-xo.html
You won't notice an immediate difference right when you add the Lucas. Just drive it, let the engine oil/lucas mix up, and then make a video of a cold start with the oil/lucas mixture. I would be very curious. Very great video. I'm actually testing Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer in my car and I am going to review it sometime in the future. Maybe in like 2-3 months.
Cool i have other videos on it
NATES INTERACTIVE AUTO I will definitely take a look at your channel.
I just add about a cup of Auto Transmission fluid about a week before I change the oil . It has a high detergent factory and helps carry the particles to the filter . When I change the oil , I put the plug back in then add add about 1-2 pints of fresh cheap oil let it sit for a bit then drain that off , you would be surprised at how dirty it is from the remain old oil . Last change I went for some Lucas and some 10-40 Synthetic oil ( normally 5-30 ) . It certainly ran smother and is quite now even after 5,000 mile in a Chevy L77 V8 .with 130,000 miles . BUT I must admit my car starts on Petrol ( in the US is called Gas ) , then switches to LPG. Vehicles I have had that run on LPG ( Propaine ) don't contaminate the oil , it's the fuel that leaks past the rings that breaks down the oil and sludges up an engine . The Lucas stabiliser tends to stay on the cam and lifter so they are lubricated right at the start .
I’ve been using motor medic motor flush and Lucas since new, I now have 80,000 miles and my engine. It runs like it only has 450,000 miles on it! Thank you motor medic and Lucas!
I appreciate you sharing your story with the NIA community.
So, you have been using Motor Medic since new and your engine has 80,000 miles on it but it runs like it has "only" 450,000 miles on it! That don't sound good to me!
@@nightlightabcd
Maybe he meant 45k instead of 450k lol
You may want to proof read your comments before you post them
I have used Motor Medic on my 94 chevy pick up for 24 years , I have 314,000 miles on it . The way to use it is have your oil level a quart low , add the flush and run the motor for 6 to 7 mins , then change the oil . This stuff is not transmission fluid
Thanks for the input im doing about do it to my 94 chevy
These are the same products I’ve stuck to my whole life.. my 4 bangers dint like the Lucas stabilizer like my v6 and v8 but they like seafoam in the oil and Lucas injector additive in gas. I just never seen a Lucas injector demo like you’re so thank you
The only thing I would have done different is to run the Lucas Synthetic additive instead of the regular Lucas if you are using the Mobil 1 synthetic oil.
Thanks check out the 16 oil tournament
LUCAS OIL 10001 Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer is for extra high mileage engines only. Use the Lucas Oil 10130 Pure Synthetic Oil Stabilizer
You could get the same flush results with a quart of mineral spirits and probably cheaper too. If your changing oil every 3k anything will work. You will get the same result from plain 5-30 as Mobil1. I add a pint of Liquid Wrench to the oil 100 miles before a change to clean the motor out. Drain very well and use a good filter. 200-250 miles later change filter just to be sure it doesn't plug up with anything else breaking free after the Liquid Wrench loosens it. I think the sewing machine sound you have is mechanical though.
That sound is the pump for the direct injection thanks for sharing this was for test purposes
Lucas seems to help as engine warms and the gdi fuel pumps are loud
+Tom Parker thanks
+Tom Parker good input
I use the whole bottle of flush for a V8 02 explorer. Works great just flush leftover flush with hlf quart of clean oil. Finish draining, change filter and fill back up
How do you flush the leftover flush with a half quart? Do you pour into the crankcase breather with the drain plug open?
@@Taydrum yes
@@breeve9742 thanks
1) engine should be Hot, it's written on any Oil Flush i've used ever. 2) Don't worry about oil level when applying Flush. 3) Some engines (such as LS) with high volume of the oil will need 2 bottles of Oil Flush
Ok so I had to stop because of the way you said " Don't Go Above Halfway" , lol you put emphasis on it.. So you can't do that without at least telling us why not... Dying...
First video of his I've seen, and I really like this Guy.. Definitely a new Subscriber.. Don't breed em like dat there uh no more... Awesome vid Bruh..
Lol great video, I have used the motor flush with good and bad results, as far as the ingredients of the motor flush I always thought it was 90% diesel lol the ingredients says petroleum products but not how much lol. my bad experience with the stuff was putting it in a high mileage engine that had never been cleaned, it broke the carbon buildup down nod stopped the oil pickup screen in the engine up, I had to pull the oil pan and put New oil pump and screen in it so be carfull, carbon is just as abrasive as sand.
Thanks for sharing your experience with the NIA community
There's shouldn't be any carbon anywhere in your oil lol Carbon comes from your combustion chamber and should only be in that area. Mainly on valves and pistons
Blow bye, crank case ventilation, the rings don't deal 100% and the higher the mileage the more blow buy you get, carbon will buildup in the bottom of an engine, I have seen it.
@@raymondsimpson7433 Ok, fair enough. I guess after I read thought my comment it kinda clicked in my brain lol Your absolutely right and I stand corrected. I remember now seeing built up carbon in lifter valleys around exhaust ports on the heads and intake runners that also could just fall down into the system too when working on it. Guess that's another good reason to buy quality filters also. Thanks for correcting me, honestly don't know how that even came into my thought process
Lol I'm not correcting you, I'm just saying what I've seen, a mechanic doing warranty work on low mileage car will probably never see it. All the engine I have worked on was 300,000 + mileage and you are right it's always at the top and falls to the bottom.
it will, because it thickens up the oil, but that isnt the fix, the fix is to change oil regularly, use a good oil and use the recommended oil, a good engine flush followed by an oil change would probably be better, I guess on a high millage car, it doesnt really matter
Your explanation, very helpful for me my friend,, I’m first time to use this motor medic ,
Thank you .
Thank you let us know what to try next
I’ve been using motor flush and the Lucas, my car car over 110,000 miles and it runs like it has 60,000 mile on it.
Thats great thanks so much for sharing
what made u think 60k lol weird
Lol good i hadn't thought of that
110,000 is not even high mileage. I hope it runs well.
Now i have a 1999 ford ranger , my truck has a knocking sound only when hitting the gas is there anything I can do about that?
Sub'd. Thanks for all your time in making these videos Nate!
I have my doubts one the stabilizers and some additives but my transmission on my 2007 Hyundai Elantra and all other fluids I need to flush the car was poorly maintained. I want to do a over haul on all the fluids first off . I race the car on dirt tracks I'm gonna put hard miles on it bit I'm a bit worried about some issues about the Hyundai after it hits over 100,000 miles the motor sounds strong bit I'm having trouble shifting and it has trouble going into reverse. It's a 5 speed transmission. I used to race dodges so I'm a little new to the Hyundai game. I'm learning quickly but I'm afraid to hurt or do some cutting to my harness that will later on down the road cause me issues. I'm a bit skeptical. I just want to k ow I have the heater core bare and ready to disconnect I'll get a full 180 pre bent hose so it doesn't collapse on me my main worries are that the transmission gets a proper flush and tune my clutch works fairly well some times I miss second if I hot throws to high it wont shift into second. I take good care of my cars I run them on the track after that its mainly setting. But I'm also starting to hear that knocking too. Its worrying me
Car sounded like a diesel at first
I've watched a few of your videos and they are well documented. We don't get many of these products in the UK. Do we have additives you don't get in the states?
Yes or they are more expensive.
We don’t really get soccer here in the US
@@Helmuesi911 most blokes in the UK don't either. We prefer rugby or football with padding as you call it
Actually cleans
Dawson Kaydon yes thanks
Did you notice any contaminants lol good vid very thorough
Sounds better after adding Lucas. Good video!
Thanks alot it does seem to help alot giving added protection
Let me know what test u wanna see next and what product
@@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO Test more bg products for example bg 109
Absolutely tomorrow Germanys best claims 30 second cleaner
Pretty cool demo Nate. I like the dust mask demo of all that came out of the crankcase. Also, is it really necessary to change the Mobil 1 every 3,000 miles? I think you can safely go to 5,000. Advertised to protect for 15,000. Just wondering. Thanks for sharing.
I'm glad I use the mobile 1 high milage I will try this additive
This procedure fixed my hemi tick
Nice job with the mask, I like it!
The Kucas oil stabilizer is thick, and modern engines require a thin oil. The synthetic oil everything your engine needs. Unless the engine is burning oil because it is worn out. Thicker oil may not get past the rings and seals as much. Save yourself time and money and just use full synthetic at the mfg recommended viscosity.
What can we try next
Great Comparison Thank you!
I have questions do i put motor flush let run then drain it after i put lucas oil stabilizer
you got the cheaper lucas oil. the one i have is non synthetic and its much more thicker, its also easier to mix it in with oil before you pour it in the block it mixes itself up better and wont get gunked up one valves and shit.
So this stuff makes noises go away, no problems ?
I think you need a longer funnel lol
Watch my new seafoam video its amazing
yep definitely longer funnel would do the trick. thinking like the one on the tin man's head would be good
I quickly read the comments as the video was playing. Went back to the video and lmao when the funnel showed up. Cheers to you sir!
We do this every oil change?
I really can´t see any sound difference. Maybe the fresh oil was cooler and more viscous. Maybe you knock off some dirt from the filter by rupturing the media with that pink querosene flush.
I have a sound meter in other videos
You are caring for older high mileage engines? My old ones get that treatment. I just use a bit of lucas to show coat on dipstick when cold. No more rattle starts! Not too thick in winter.
I did this about 20 years ago except I changed the oil first added 1 qt of oil then the flush then filled the oil, ran it for 5min or so whatever it said then changed the oil again. It seemed to work fine although the vehicle didn't have problems to begin with it just had high mileage then I did the exact same thing on a vehicle I purchased that had high mileage because the oil looked dirty not long after I changed it. The oil never really got dirty again however it did start leaking oil like crazy. In all fairness it did leak oil beforehand but it got much worse. Anyway I've heard conflicted stories about doing this but I have an old Nissan truck I use around the farm and would like to do this but it has over 350,000mi and I'm kinda nervous about doing it.
Thanks for sharing your story with the NIA community and just follow instructions
quieter for sure!
Are you not worried about things clogging the screen or the sump?
If you are going to do a engine oil flush. You want to do it with fresh oil and filter. And you are doing 2 oil changes. One with flush. 2nd one with out
Have you ever tested duralube?
Do not add any additives on a cold start make sure you warm up your engine before pouring ur additives
He doesn't have racecar stop tweaking lol stock engine oil ratios are close enough. if he mixed the lucas into the oil before hand it wouldn't made a lick of a shit of difference
Uhhhmmm....NO. The instructions on the Engine Flush specifically tell you NOT to use it on a warm/hot motor.
Good cleaner
+Tom Parker thanks
Just did this except use marvel mystery instead of the lucas. I also added all of the motor flush. Don't know if it damaged anything dont think so, ill update if anything tho.
This was done on a low miles 1991 lexus es250
Motor flush is ATF and Naphtha. ( Kerosine).
I appreciate you sharing the info
Actually according to the MSD report it's 60 to 100% mineral spirits
Awesome i wasnt aware of that
Instructions on the motor flush says put in cold engine add full bottle let run for 5min so drain out a quart of oil then add the flush to make the oil level is at the full mark on the dip stick
Also on thr back of the motor flush bottle it says what's in it diesel and kerosene
You should have used the Lucas full synthetic oil stabilizer the Whitt’s bottle it’s made from regular oil
The company said to me, you can use it with synthetic oil too.
@@stockey you can but adding a non synthetic oil based product would make the oil a synthetic blend
4 quarts of diesel fuel and 1 quart of motor oil. Run 10-15min and drain. I would like to see how that compairs.
Sludge usual quiets engine noises, once removed.the party starts
sounds good though
Sounds terrible AFTER adding treatment
Sounds way louder. Just spent money for nothing. Most flushes never work! Sad but true.
Not good flush and not great oil. I use amsoil. Such a great improvement
Yes i will test in a 16 oil elimination
Mobile 1 is a proven top line oil, Amsoil is better by a small margin but doesn't cost much more. However Amsoil is awfully hyped up for what it is and just barely beats Mobile 1 with the additional additives. If you want the best then try Redlines oils they blow all the leading oils out of the water
What can improve our test
Thad’s just a waist of Money you just pay for the name with that stuff I use conventional Mobile one With some Lucas addatives and change the oil every 3000 miles and I already have 350,000k on my car original engine and have never done any work on it
Yes thanks for sharing your experience with the NIA community
I usually flush my engine with diesel or with transmission fluid. Let the car idle for 10 minutes and then drain and fill back up with fresh engine oil.
How often?
It all depends on the condition of the engine. But if three consecutive flushes (after three consecutive oil changes) cannot get the job done, then no amount of engine flush will ever do!
The procedure that I follow is as such:
1. Completely drain the engine oil from the engine.
2. Fill to the mark with diesel or ATF.
3. Run at idle for 10 minutes.
4. Completely drain the engine from the flushing agent.
5. Replace the oil filter and add fresh engine oil.
One thing to consider, if the engine is very gunked-up then you may need to remove the oil pan and clean the oil pick up screen from any obstructions.
This process could be repeated as many times as necessary and at every oil change interval. Of course, as I said earlier, if three consecutive engine flushes couldn't get the job done then an alternative method should be considered.
Cheers,
Thin out your oil and let it idle for 5 minutes. I would never do that.
Used Lucas oil stabilizer and ended up getting a misfire code changed the oil and code went away, never using it again
IMO, the misfire was due to the Lucus oil viscosity being too thick. If you have VVT it is not recommended.
I didn't hear any difference.
The best oil you can use is valvoline maxlife
Hey Nate I've been enjoying the videos. All the bad things I heard about you aren't true at all.
You always see trolls its funny i enjoy it
Motor flush. Stay sway from this stuff. If, that's if, you have to use it. Use it on clean oil. I would use Supertech since its good quality oil but cheaper than Mobile 1. Make sure its recommended oil with only half the bottle of flush. ATF on idle for 15- 20 minutes does a safer and better job. You can do 50/50 ATF and engine oil or all ATF. Make sure you add new oil filter before and after.
Thank you for sharing
NATES INTERACTIVE AUTO Techninician @ Nissan shared this method with me about 20 years ago. Its a method used by mechanics for past 50 years. Also run 3 quarts of engine oil with 1 quart of ATF. For about 100 miles. Drain and fill with new oil. 3 to 1 ratio is to build oil pressure.
Watch my new seafoam video its amazing
This viddya is about OAL!! 🤤🤤 Merica
What’s the point of not following the instructions… dose not make any sense
Amsoil is better
Always run a magnetic drain plug oil and trans
That Covid 19 haha
Lucas Snake Oil.😂
Terrible video no before video of engine sound
Save your money and just use a quart of diesel