just one comment if you stop touching the work area of the file you won't need to use the file card as much it's the oil from your fingertips that allows the small filings to stick to the file Also if you put talcum powder on the file before brushing the debris out it will also clean away any oil at the same time Just some thoughts from an old tool maker in the cutlery Sheffield England
Thanks for taking the time to put this together and share it. 3 years on and it's still valuable information that we are all obviously still benefitting from. Thanks mate.
slow but sure, I am accumulating all the tools a man 'ot to have. This channel is my guide and example for all my future endeavors... being 22 years old... i think i have a good head start on most... God bless...
These videos are well made. I don't know why they came up in my feed but I just can't seem to stop watching them. I'm not even a woodsman or other nature enthusiast. I do keep my mental tool box open however and I hope I remember these things when the shit gets real.
Dear mr. Wranglerstar You have impacted my life big time. your videos are wonderful just as much as you are. you are a nice Christian man who lives "a simple kind of life" and has a caring heart you are very smart plz keep making videos God bless
I have really enjoyed your series on timber framing, and your building a tree house. Thank you for your willingness to demonstrate and explain basic process's clearly.
Awesome series of Ax videos! I don't currently own a decent ax, but now, with your helpful information, I know what to look for, and how to recondition and care for them. Thank you, Sir!
Thanks for the video's. I recently moved to a rural area and love learning how not to rely on friends to fix or help with things. I appreciate the effort. T.Bone
I've sharpened a few axes & hatchets this way over the years, and, while it does work quite well, it also makes me very thankful for modern technology like my Work Sharp Ken Onion Edition Knife & Tool Sharpener. It'll put a perfect convex edge on an ax in no time flat! It won't work without electricity of course, but while the power still works we might as well make the most of it! One thing that I always do when sharpening an ax, hatchet, tomahawk, knife, etc..., regardless of whether I'm using a stone or the Work Sharp, is to finish up with a leather strop. I know that an ax doesn't need to be razor sharp like a knife does, but using a file or a stone, even a very fine stone, will always leave a small burr on the edge. The leather strop removes the burr, and that makes the edge stay sharper for longer.
Thanks for the video! working on my tools for my first house. It's going to be a cold winter so this will help me keep wood burning in my wood stove! :)
Used your technique and the old camp axe came out with a seriously sharp edge with only a bit of work! I did drill a small hole in the front of the vice jaw to rest the tip of the file tang into to make fixing the angle firmly and give me repeatability of angle. The technique required me to file off the steeper angle the axe had (for hardwood) and made it more narrow for softwoods like the pine around here. The final edge was 'honed' by using emery paper wrapped around file to give me a flat at the same angle as the file. The work paid off, and I will be using this method from here on out. Thanks for the vid, the technique does an fine job at what used to be a long and boring job.
Hey cody id like to thank you for teaching me many valuable lessons in life and about tools. You have inspired me to restore many axes and other "antique" tools.
I enjoyed your video -but I use 600 grit sand paper to sharpen my axe. I wrap it around a piece of wood then apply even pressure. You have done a great job making this and other videos. Thanks
Love what you said about not getting too scientific about it..........hacking means steep angle, fine cutting means shallow angle. People will learn on the way. Good job.
Hi Cody, just a thought. I've seen a lot of people sharpen tools and use a Sharpie to color the edge so you can instantly tell where you've filed and where you still need to work. Keep up the great work.
The best way I've found to sharpen any tool is to clamp it flat to a bench and work the bastard or stone into the tool, minimizing any injury. Love your tips on working a blade. Larry
Smell that? You smell that? WD-40, son. Nothing else in the world smells like that. I love the smell of WD-40 in the morning. You know, one time we had an axe filed, for hours. When it was all over, I walked up. We didn't find one of 'em, not one stinkin' nick in the bit. The smell, you know that oily smell, the whole shop, smelled like [sniffing, pondering] rust free. Someday this war's gonna end...
Thanks Wanglerstar great videos . just a sugestion here , this is for everyone with a file without a handle on it , I find that If I get a gulf ball drill a small hole in it about halfway threw it and gently drive your file into it works great for a file handle . Its then better getting gouged by the end of the file Try It Out ! Im 50 and my father gave me that advice . Thanks Again !
That was fine instruction for using a file and stone. I use a belt sander 120 grit 4"x36" instead of a file then hone with a stone. I can sharpen many axes and lawn mower blades with one sander belt many more than a file can do. Files are best used camping or away from the shop... or give the axe a few strokes with the file after sanding it. If you are just touching up the edge a file would do fine. The sander works best on a very dull and nicked up axe, never use a grinder they are the worst thing to use to put a keen edge on a blade.
Great video. Thanks, man. I play the oboe and make my own reeds, which requires a lot of knife sharpening with surgical grade precision. I'm not used to this rough kind of work. Very great tutorial, though.
I split my own wood and burn locally. Not only will I use these ideas on my axes I will also do the lawn mower which has been not been done recent enough. Thanks for sharing.
you want a cast iron vice, does not matter what company or country it comes from , dont buy a welded one, buy a full cast iron. an old one will be best.
When I was a lad and worked a lot with tools, we used to tap the file on the side of the bench every couple of passes, that usually kept the file clear. I have a bastard sword, used to think it was because every time it was used, the recipient would shout that word, l.o.l Going to start following your vids brother, just watched your sisters vid on your gathering, made me feel good. Working with tools again now I am retired, wood managment on an english shooting estate, gamekeeping etc, lovely being in the woods again, sometimes without a gun.
I'm a hema practitioner who has been collecting swords for some time, but I still don't have the stones to put a stone to a 1,000 dollar Albion. Bastard sword is actually more of a modern term, but I believe bastard sword was mentioned a few times in french writing. People from the British isles generally referred to them as longswords or just plain ol two handed sword. The german and Italian manuscripts pretty much do the same. Just as a bit of history added, longsword where actually not that common. The sword and buckler was generally more common.
hand and half sword were generally used in military, battles and melees. They were called bastard because they neither one handed or two handed, good long fairly light blade, good sword for pommel strikes and coup d gras with sharpened hand guards.
Laurie Campbell Historically longswords were mostly sidearms in war(with a few acceptations, and of course during seige warfare). You would be better served with something like a halbert, billhook, pole axe..etc. That's actually a myth. Every longsword I own has room to accommodate two hands, although Italian style fencers us a shorter grip there is still plenty of room for two hands. Generally the longsword is used two handed because a one handed sword does a better job than a longsword when used with a buckler, shield..etc, but in fencing people will often pull a one handed strike to get more reach then quickly recover. Crossguards can be used for hooks, throws, and generally be helpful when wrestling, but I don't think sharpening them would be a very good idea since crossguards are made of brass or mild steel meaning they wouldn't hold much of an edge and it would further weaken an already weak part of the sword( hilt construction). Oh, and nobles were the most common uses of longswords. Common men usually wore sword and buckler.
I agree LBF about use of sword with sheild, the two variations I like is the scottish method of targe with dirk behind and broadsword, mainly used in full charge, although the redcoats devised a method with every bayonet being thrust to the right when in line to attack the unguarded right of opposing swordsman. The other method is the norse shield which can be moved to parry or attack with edge and is held with only one handle just off center of boss, makes it very flexible for attack or passing parrys. As for polearms, I would much rather have a polearm with short sword in most battle situations, but as one of my hobbys is field archery and can hit 3inch diameter at 40yds 9 times out of ten, then by the time an opponent on foot reached me from 70yds, I could loose off about 5 aimed shots, the nearer they get the harder it hits, then I would let the men at arms take over as I scarpered to the rear for my well earned cup of tea. L.O.L.
I have found that running files through diesel fuel removes almost all traces of built up metal rubbish in the teeth. I usually keep a cup or container nearby deep enough to submerge the file, and when I start to feel the files "glide" without grabbing, I swish it and I'm good to go in another few seconds. It only shaves off minute amount of time, but time efficiency shouldn't be disregarded when the effort is minimal. Thanks for the video man.
A couple of points: if you want to stop the file clogging just rub a stick of chalk on it before using, this stops the swarf from clogging the teeth, especially if you're filling non-ferrous materials. Second, if you want a really good quality vice buy a cast steel one. Record (UK manufacturer) makes vices in cast iron and cast steel but the Engineer's vices are always cast steel. The Chinese do make good tools (very high quality, precision tools) but you'd have to pay as much, if not more, than you do for USA made tools. As with everything in life you get what you pay for.
just a mention to the whole "buy american made stuff", over here in europe I would suggest to get german or austrian stuff, or just stuff from further in the north of europe(norwegian, sweden) and I'm pretty sure that most of that stuff will be equally as good or even better than american made stuff...
I learn so much from wranglerstar, thanks for putting these videos out its greatly appreciated, and generally but not always, I do agree that american tools are better built than let's say a Chinese made tool, they just don't put the same quality control standards into practice, and for good reason, if you were paid $2 or $3 a day would you care about your job? I generally try to buy american, if for no other reason than to support american jobs and to keep my hard earned dollars circulating in our own economy.
don't think of it that way. you can't apply Western standards for income and employment in the east, or any other country. we complain about less than $10/hr here in my state, and there are no jobs less than min wage, but in China the rate they get paid is the prevailing wage for that type of work, and if they don't want to work for $2-3 per day in a factory they will have a hard time earning anywhere near that much in the fields. it's not a lack of pride versus pay, or even pride in ones work but more a deliberate level of quality designed and intended in the outcome by the companies. they have always had the idea that more cheaper is as good as fewer higher quality. even military tools and weapons for their own use fit this concept.
don't think of it that way. you can't apply Western standards for income and employment in the east, or any other country. we complain about less than $10/hr here in my state, and there are no jobs less than min wage, but in China the rate they get paid is the prevailing wage for that type of work, and if they don't want to work for $2-3 per day in a factory they will have a hard time earning anywhere near that much in the fields. it's not a lack of pride versus pay, or even pride in ones work but more a deliberate level of quality designed and intended in the outcome by the companies. they have always had the idea that more cheaper is as good as fewer higher quality. even military tools and weapons for their own use fit this concept.
For your information. I purchased a lansky stone sharpener (the puck). I tested the stone with a Geiger counter. The results: the normal back ground in my area is 15 to 20 counts per minute in millirem. I tested the lansky puck, the count was 140 millirem cpm. I suggest at the very least putting on a thick glove and a dust mask when using the stone.
Mr Wranglerstar, I have a draw knife, very old and rusty but sharp. I would love to see a restoration on a tool like this or a spoke shave or possibly just tell us the best way to remove the rust. I plan to use this tool if possible in instrument and furniture making. Love the videos.I am very happy for you , living your dream.
What brings me here is finding a L.A. Sayre Co. Hudson Bay pattern hatchet at a garage sale last weekend. Never sharpened, original paint and very little forging marks/artifacts. To be highly polished up.... maybe. Cost one buck. Looks like it dates pre 1909. Files: some really good tips here and just to add to technique.... esp. left handers. In cleaning up a totally abused, rusted up and chipped edged axe, I start out with the good old rat tail used to sharpen your chainsaw. Removes a lot of metal fast and working the cutting edge aim it for the mid-highest point of the head. Progressing .... being left handed I've given up on single cut files and have gone to double cut (cross-hatched) files. Works equally well in both hands. Important to keep files oil free, so I use brake cleaner before cleaning with the file card. Honing stones: The Norton two grit rectangle stones you find at the box stores work just fine. Cost is 4 or 5 bucks. Buy two.... one as an oil stone and use the other as a water stone to use for touch ups when you're up in the timber. Wafer or pocket stones work great when working in your lap up in the timber. I like to hone horizontally. I've got a wood faced shoulder vise which allows that. A polished razor edge I use soft and hard Arkansas stone.Keep up the good videos here............
I agree the nicholson files are great. My father bought a large set of then about 25 years ago and there still in great condition. Use a lathe/mill bastard as others may be too course and will rip off small particles of the edge.
I don't know if anyone as mentioned it yet or if you already know about this, however rubbing some chalk on the file will lubricate it a little and you'll have to clean it out with your file card less often
A cool experiment with a painted handle. I like a bright color so it is not easily lost. That said, I tried Truck Bed Liner spray that is griping. It covers well and after it is dry it has a mild griping action which seems to work good at the but of the handle. You can paint over it with a bright color if you wish.
Very nice simply explanation, i like the painted axe head and handles for you to identify which are yours, I do like shiny axe heads though!. Great Job!
thx for the vid! as an old-shool woodworker, i've learned to sharpen (chisels lets' say) staring with an initial "hollow grind" along the beveled face w/6" med wheel. Then the cutting edge need only be dressed w/a med/hard stone. Of course, taking care not to over-heat and thus ruin the steel tempre~~~just have to re-grind once-in-awhile~~~thx again ~~~oh ya, English and German tooling are great products, and i'd rather support U.S. made only if the quality is similar
Thanks for doing the video, useful to me. I'll get a decent file next time I'm at the hardware shop, and a file cleaner as you suggest. Bruce Thomson in New Zealand.
After looking at your cut finger in the other video, I think you may do well to wear gloves sharpening blades with a stone. We all get tired and lose focus from time to time. That edge you put is sharp as a razor. I cut myself like that on a lawnmower blade. I tried taking it off without gloves or draping a rag over the blade, just to get it done quick. Now I use gloves or at least an old towel. I've also become a fan of using anti-seize on bolts like that.
Great info - but I'd suggest you put your promo and 'what I'm going to do' (first 5 mins) in a separate video. Many TH-camrs have these long lead-ins and it NOT what the initial title is about, and adds extra time to wade thru. I would suggest having a link to your 'overview' and 'plans' and give it a quick mention at the start - then - get on with the subject at hand... i.e. "Git 'er Done" Also made great use of your 'how to hang an axe head' vid - great stuff! THANKS!
word to the wise, Bro. Wranglerstar. My last Nicholson said, "Made in Mexico". it's seems to be as good as my US made, and probably still under US management... just telling folks, look close.
For rockbay79, Lansky is the brand of round stone Wranglerstar was using. I have had one for several years now and it works. Lansky has many different products but, go to their website and you will find what Lansky calls a "Puck". You will enjoy using it. "Take care".
To add to the comments, if you use a black magic marker and coat the cutting edge, it will allow you to visually see where your file and/or stone is riding on the blade. If your use a file, lay the file against the edge and laying against the cheek of the axe, raise the rear of the file slightly off the cheek will give you the approximate angle needed to start the sharpening. By marking the blade face you can easily follow your file along the edge as you sharpen.
Thanks for a well explained video. You keep saying buy American but if you live in the UK, I doubt you would want to pay for the delivery for a vice, nor the import taxes!
If you can find an old British made Record vise, they're every bit as good as a Wilton. Shame that the name is getting slapped on low quality chinese made vises now though.
I found an axe in the uk that cost with the current conversion to dollars costs $7 it's a hatchet about 14" long good grain orientation USA hickory not a great edge or steel but it's a good cheap light fairly sharp hatchet to buy for a beginner
I honestly love using my ax more than anything else. Sure, chainsaws might be faster and helpful for speeding up massive debris cleanup, but everyone should be comfortable working with axes and hatchets (Especially since it only requires manpower, not gasoline nor electricity).
Same process I use on my axe, shape the edge with a file and hone with a stone. I use a wet stone though, not sure if his stone is supposed to be dry or not but I doubt it. With a wet stone you can tell if you have the right angle on the stone if slurry is developing on the side of the blade opposite to the stone. My axe is so sharp I can get through a 2 inch sapling in a single cut.
Like your video but not the constant reference to "good American made" products. I, being from Canada, know that just being American/Canadian made does not guarantee quality!!
just one comment if you stop touching the work area of the file you won't need to use the file card as much
it's the oil from your fingertips that allows the small filings to stick to the file Also if you put talcum powder on the file before brushing the debris out it will also clean away any oil at the same time
Just some thoughts from an old tool maker in the cutlery
Sheffield England
this was the first video of Wrangerstar's i ever watched, it's what made me subscribe to his channel. oh nostalgia.
My dad used to carry a stone with him in his pocket. It was a natural sandstone he found in a brook.
I got the marbles axe today! Watching this to learn how to sharpen by hand. GOD BLESS you and your family Cody!
Thanks for taking the time to put this together and share it. 3 years on and it's still valuable information that we are all obviously still benefitting from. Thanks mate.
slow but sure, I am accumulating all the tools a man 'ot to have. This channel is my guide and example for all my future endeavors... being 22 years old... i think i have a good head start on most... God bless...
These videos are well made. I don't know why they came up in my feed but I just can't seem to stop watching them. I'm not even a woodsman or other nature enthusiast. I do keep my mental tool box open however and I hope I remember these things when the shit gets real.
Dear mr. Wranglerstar
You have impacted my life big time. your videos are wonderful just as much as you are. you are a nice Christian man who lives "a simple kind of life" and has a caring heart you are very smart plz keep making videos
God bless
I have really enjoyed your series on timber framing, and your building a tree house. Thank you for your willingness to demonstrate and explain basic process's clearly.
Awesome series of Ax videos! I don't currently own a decent ax, but now, with your helpful information, I know what to look for, and how to recondition and care for them. Thank you, Sir!
Thanks for the video's. I recently moved to a rural area and love learning how not to rely on friends to fix or help with things. I appreciate the effort. T.Bone
Excellent. I already knew a lot of this, but you are an excellent teacher, and I learned a lot. Thank you.
"Get a good american one"
Me: "laughs in german"
Wow got my axe sharper than I have ever seen! Great Video! Seriously sharp!!!!
Well done! This is a vital skill for anyone that wants to be self-sufficient in an off grid or emergency setting.
I've sharpened a few axes & hatchets this way over the years, and, while it does work quite well, it also makes me very thankful for modern technology like my Work Sharp Ken Onion Edition Knife & Tool Sharpener. It'll put a perfect convex edge on an ax in no time flat! It won't work without electricity of course, but while the power still works we might as well make the most of it!
One thing that I always do when sharpening an ax, hatchet, tomahawk, knife, etc..., regardless of whether I'm using a stone or the Work Sharp, is to finish up with a leather strop. I know that an ax doesn't need to be razor sharp like a knife does, but using a file or a stone, even a very fine stone, will always leave a small burr on the edge. The leather strop removes the burr, and that makes the edge stay sharper for longer.
Thanks for the video! working on my tools for my first house. It's going to be a cold winter so this will help me keep wood burning in my wood stove! :)
Used your technique and the old camp axe came out with a seriously sharp edge with only a bit of work! I did drill a small hole in the front of the vice jaw to rest the tip of the file tang into to make fixing the angle firmly and give me repeatability of angle. The technique required me to file off the steeper angle the axe had (for hardwood) and made it more narrow for softwoods like the pine around here. The final edge was 'honed' by using emery paper wrapped around file to give me a flat at the same angle as the file. The work paid off, and I will be using this method from here on out. Thanks for the vid, the technique does an fine job at what used to be a long and boring job.
This is the video that brought me to you channel. The one that made me a loyal Wranglerstar fan!
Hey cody id like to thank you for teaching me many valuable lessons in life and about tools. You have inspired me to restore many axes and other "antique" tools.
Good video. Same procedure that my Dad taught me 50 years ago. I still have my Norton round India stone for final sharpening.
I enjoyed your video -but I use 600 grit sand paper to sharpen my axe. I wrap it around a piece of wood then apply even pressure. You have done a great job making this and other videos. Thanks
my grandfather retired from Nickelson file company nearly 40 years ago. he was a file cutter.
Really enjoyed the lesson. I feel confident to give this a try now myself. Thank you.
Love what you said about not getting too scientific about it..........hacking means steep angle, fine cutting means shallow angle. People will learn on the way. Good job.
Thanks for this video. Its nice to see how others do things. I'll be looking for a round sharpening stone this afternoon!
What a cracking video, some really nice tips and hints. Thank you for taking the time out to make it. Lee
Excellent video, Few people seem to know that a chopping or cutting axe should be sharpened differently than a splitting axe.
It's fun to watch the oldies again
Hi Cody, just a thought. I've seen a lot of people sharpen tools and use a Sharpie to color the edge so you can instantly tell where you've filed and where you still need to work. Keep up the great work.
The best way I've found to sharpen any tool is to clamp it flat to a bench and work the bastard or stone into the tool, minimizing any injury. Love your tips on working a blade. Larry
Smell that? You smell that?
WD-40, son. Nothing else in the world smells like that.
I love the smell of WD-40 in the morning. You know, one time we had an axe filed, for hours. When it was all over, I walked up. We didn't find one of 'em, not one stinkin' nick in the bit. The smell, you know that oily smell, the whole shop, smelled like
[sniffing, pondering]
rust free. Someday this war's gonna end...
Nice reference m8
Spray wd40 in a pond and watch the fish.
Nice, thank you for taking the time to teach me this skill.
I am glad you have taken the time to explain "American quality" versus garbage from Pakistan or china.
I like how you support the economy of your country
Thanks Wanglerstar great videos . just a sugestion here , this is for everyone with a file without a handle on it , I find that If I get a gulf ball drill a small hole in it about halfway threw it and gently drive your file into it works great for a file handle . Its then better getting gouged by the end of the file Try It Out ! Im 50 and my father gave me that advice . Thanks Again !
That was fine instruction for using a file and stone. I use a belt sander 120 grit 4"x36" instead of a file then hone with a stone. I can sharpen many axes and lawn mower blades with one sander belt many more than a file can do. Files are best used camping or away from the shop... or give the axe a few strokes with the file after sanding it. If you are just touching up the edge a file would do fine. The sander works best on a very dull and nicked up axe, never use a grinder they are the worst thing to use to put a keen edge on a blade.
in my experience, nothing beats german made tools
Damn this video is good. Bravo with the instructions and logic behind each bit.
Great video. Thanks, man. I play the oboe and make my own reeds, which requires a lot of knife sharpening with surgical grade precision. I'm not used to this rough kind of work. Very great tutorial, though.
England made vises ftw! I want my view back.
I like your choice of music on this video.
Great video. I am a long time knife guy but did not know the best way to sharpen my axes...Thanks...
dogbugler
Good Job, Proudly Made In The USA important. Quality and fair pay.
I split my own wood and burn locally. Not only will I use these ideas on my axes I will also do the lawn mower which has been not been done recent enough. Thanks for sharing.
you want a cast iron vice, does not matter what company or country it comes from , dont buy a welded one, buy a full cast iron. an old one will be best.
Thanks for endorsing American made! Good video, thanks :)
When I was a lad and worked a lot with tools, we used to tap the file on the side of the bench every couple of passes, that usually kept the file clear. I have a bastard sword, used to think it was because every time it was used, the recipient would shout that word, l.o.l Going to start following your vids brother, just watched your sisters vid on your gathering, made me feel good. Working with tools again now I am retired, wood managment on an english shooting estate, gamekeeping etc, lovely being in the woods again, sometimes without a gun.
I'm a hema practitioner who has been collecting swords for some time, but I still don't have the stones to put a stone to a 1,000 dollar Albion. Bastard sword is actually more of a modern term, but I believe bastard sword was mentioned a few times in french writing. People from the British isles generally referred to them as longswords or just plain ol two handed sword. The german and Italian manuscripts pretty much do the same. Just as a bit of history added, longsword where actually not that common. The sword and buckler was generally more common.
hand and half sword were generally used in military, battles and melees. They were called bastard because they neither one handed or two handed, good long fairly light blade, good sword for pommel strikes and coup d gras with sharpened hand guards.
Laurie Campbell Historically longswords were mostly sidearms in war(with a few acceptations, and of course during seige warfare). You would be better served with something like a halbert, billhook, pole axe..etc. That's actually a myth. Every longsword I own has room to accommodate two hands, although Italian style fencers us a shorter grip there is still plenty of room for two hands. Generally the longsword is used two handed because a one handed sword does a better job than a longsword when used with a buckler, shield..etc, but in fencing people will often pull a one handed strike to get more reach then quickly recover. Crossguards can be used for hooks, throws, and generally be helpful when wrestling, but I don't think sharpening them would be a very good idea since crossguards are made of brass or mild steel meaning they wouldn't hold much of an edge and it would further weaken an already weak part of the sword( hilt construction). Oh, and nobles were the most common uses of longswords. Common men usually wore sword and buckler.
I agree LBF about use of sword with sheild, the two variations I like is the scottish method of targe with dirk behind and broadsword, mainly used in full charge, although the redcoats devised a method with every bayonet being thrust to the right when in line to attack the unguarded right of opposing swordsman. The other method is the norse shield which can be moved to parry or attack with edge and is held with only one handle just off center of boss, makes it very flexible for attack or passing parrys. As for polearms, I would much rather have a polearm with short sword in most battle situations, but as one of my hobbys is field archery and can hit 3inch diameter at 40yds 9 times out of ten, then by the time an opponent on foot reached me from 70yds, I could loose off about 5 aimed shots, the nearer they get the harder it hits, then I would let the men at arms take over as I scarpered to the rear for my well earned cup of tea. L.O.L.
***** No, the "history" channel spreads misinformation. Most of what I learn is from experience, manuscripts, and wikipedia(the internet) lol.
Thanks mate for sharing this video. It's very informative. John (Australia)
Best video on the subject I've ever seen, thank you!
This was a great and informative video, greatly appreciated.
I have found that running files through diesel fuel removes almost all traces of built up metal rubbish in the teeth. I usually keep a cup or container nearby deep enough to submerge the file, and when I start to feel the files "glide" without grabbing, I swish it and I'm good to go in another few seconds. It only shaves off minute amount of time, but time efficiency shouldn't be disregarded when the effort is minimal. Thanks for the video man.
You also can use chalk on the file before filing.
A couple of points: if you want to stop the file clogging just rub a stick of chalk on it before using, this stops the swarf from clogging the teeth, especially if you're filling non-ferrous materials. Second, if you want a really good quality vice buy a cast steel one. Record (UK manufacturer) makes vices in cast iron and cast steel but the Engineer's vices are always cast steel. The Chinese do make good tools (very high quality, precision tools) but you'd have to pay as much, if not more, than you do for USA made tools. As with everything in life you get what you pay for.
Thanks Cody. This was a very good video. I learned a lot.
just a mention to the whole "buy american made stuff", over here in europe I would suggest to get german or austrian stuff, or just stuff from further in the north of europe(norwegian, sweden)
and I'm pretty sure that most of that stuff will be equally as good or even better than american made stuff...
I learn so much from wranglerstar, thanks for putting these videos out its greatly appreciated, and generally but not always, I do agree that american tools are better built than let's say a Chinese made tool, they just don't put the same quality control standards into practice, and for good reason, if you were paid $2 or $3 a day would you care about your job? I generally try to buy american, if for no other reason than to support american jobs and to keep my hard earned dollars circulating in our own economy.
don't think of it that way. you can't apply Western standards for income and employment in the east, or any other country. we complain about less than $10/hr here in my state, and there are no jobs less than min wage, but in China the rate they get paid is the prevailing wage for that type of work, and if they don't want to work for $2-3 per day in a factory they will have a hard time earning anywhere near that much in the fields.
it's not a lack of pride versus pay, or even pride in ones work but more a deliberate level of quality designed and intended in the outcome by the companies. they have always had the idea that more cheaper is as good as fewer higher quality. even military tools and weapons for their own use fit this concept.
don't think of it that way. you can't apply Western standards for income and employment in the east, or any other country. we complain about less than $10/hr here in my state, and there are no jobs less than min wage, but in China the rate they get paid is the prevailing wage for that type of work, and if they don't want to work for $2-3 per day in a factory they will have a hard time earning anywhere near that much in the fields.
it's not a lack of pride versus pay, or even pride in ones work but more a deliberate level of quality designed and intended in the outcome by the companies. they have always had the idea that more cheaper is as good as fewer higher quality. even military tools and weapons for their own use fit this concept.
Awfully relaxing to look at people sharpening their tools.
Chainsaws and hydraulic wood splitters are nice tools to have, but well maintained hand tools can make a job well done worthwhile.
For your information. I purchased a lansky stone sharpener (the puck). I tested the stone with a Geiger counter. The results: the normal back ground in my area is 15 to 20 counts per minute in millirem. I tested the lansky puck, the count was 140 millirem cpm. I suggest at the very least putting on a thick glove and a dust mask when using the stone.
Mr Wranglerstar, I have a draw knife, very old and rusty but sharp. I would love to see a restoration on a tool like this or a spoke shave or possibly just tell us the best way to remove the rust. I plan to use this tool if possible in instrument and furniture making. Love the videos.I am very happy for you , living your dream.
What brings me here is finding a L.A. Sayre Co. Hudson Bay pattern hatchet at a garage sale last weekend. Never sharpened, original paint and very little forging marks/artifacts. To be highly polished up.... maybe. Cost one buck. Looks like it dates pre 1909. Files: some really good tips here and just to add to technique.... esp. left handers. In cleaning up a totally abused, rusted up and chipped edged axe, I start out with the good old rat tail used to sharpen your chainsaw. Removes a lot of metal fast and working the cutting edge aim it for the mid-highest point of the head. Progressing .... being left handed I've given up on single cut files and have gone to double cut (cross-hatched) files. Works equally well in both hands. Important to keep files oil free, so I use brake cleaner before cleaning with the file card. Honing stones: The Norton two grit rectangle stones you find at the box stores work just fine. Cost is 4 or 5 bucks. Buy two.... one as an oil stone and use the other as a water stone to use for touch ups when you're up in the timber. Wafer or pocket stones work great when working in your lap up in the timber. I like to hone horizontally. I've got a wood faced shoulder vise which allows that. A polished razor edge I use soft and hard Arkansas stone.Keep up the good videos here............
I like the American made thank u for this video
Went to the local bunnings but couldn't find a Jon Snow file.
Hahahaha 😂
I agree the nicholson files are great. My father bought a large set of then about 25 years ago and there still in great condition. Use a lathe/mill bastard as others may be too course and will rip off small particles of the edge.
Incredibly great instruction, thank you!
I don't know if anyone as mentioned it yet or if you already know about this, however rubbing some chalk on the file will lubricate it a little and you'll have to clean it out with your file card less often
A cool experiment with a painted handle. I like a bright color so it is not easily lost. That said, I tried Truck Bed Liner spray that is griping. It covers well and after it is dry it has a mild griping action which seems to work good at the but of the handle. You can paint over it with a bright color if you wish.
"Get a GOOD American made one" :D You´re really funny
Regards from Germany
Ps: Great Video
P.s.s Swedish axes. c;
Swedish axes are the best *-*
Great instruction. my Eastman felling axe is an absolute nightmare. I've got some work ahead of me.
Very nice simply explanation, i like the painted axe head and handles for you to identify which are yours, I do like shiny axe heads though!. Great Job!
you should do a vid on how to properly sharpen a knife
Nice VID! Thanks for taking the time. Merry Christmas!
Fantastic instructions thanks a lot!
thx for the vid! as an old-shool woodworker, i've learned to sharpen (chisels lets' say) staring with an initial "hollow grind" along the beveled face w/6" med wheel. Then the cutting edge need only be dressed w/a med/hard stone. Of course, taking care not to over-heat and thus ruin the steel tempre~~~just have to re-grind once-in-awhile~~~thx again ~~~oh ya, English and German tooling are great products, and i'd rather support U.S. made only if the quality is similar
Thanks for doing the video, useful to me. I'll get a decent file next time I'm at the hardware shop, and a file cleaner as you suggest. Bruce Thomson in New Zealand.
After looking at your cut finger in the other video, I think you may do well to wear gloves sharpening blades with a stone. We all get tired and lose focus from time to time. That edge you put is sharp as a razor.
I cut myself like that on a lawnmower blade. I tried taking it off without gloves or draping a rag over the blade, just to get it done quick. Now I use gloves or at least an old towel. I've also become a fan of using anti-seize on bolts like that.
Great info - but I'd suggest you put your promo and 'what I'm going to do' (first 5 mins) in a separate video. Many TH-camrs have these long lead-ins and it NOT what the initial title is about, and adds extra time to wade thru. I would suggest having a link to your 'overview' and 'plans' and give it a quick mention at the start - then - get on with the subject at hand... i.e. "Git 'er Done"
Also made great use of your 'how to hang an axe head' vid - great stuff! THANKS!
word to the wise, Bro. Wranglerstar. My last Nicholson said, "Made in Mexico". it's seems to be as good as my US made, and probably still under US management... just telling folks, look close.
Good Investment .. Thanks for posting.
Thanks for the advice and know-how, good sensible video
For rockbay79, Lansky is the brand of round stone Wranglerstar was using. I have had one for several years now and it works. Lansky has many different products but, go to their website and you will find what Lansky calls a "Puck". You will enjoy using it. "Take care".
the song is black star by yngwie malmsteen
Great video. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for posting this video. Good stuff!
Very informative video, ty Sir.
Great video, very informative. But I would just like to ask shouldn't you use oil on your Lasky puck?
Geez, Cody looks and sounds 30 years younger 8 years ago!!
To add to the comments, if you use a black magic marker and coat the cutting edge, it will allow you to visually see where your file and/or stone is riding on the blade. If your use a file, lay the file against the edge and laying against the cheek of the axe, raise the rear of the file slightly off the cheek will give you the approximate angle needed to start the sharpening. By marking the blade face you can easily follow your file along the edge as you sharpen.
Thanks man the video helped.
Good job! Quite helpful!
Thanks for a well explained video.
You keep saying buy American but if you live in the UK, I doubt you would want to pay for the delivery for a vice, nor the import taxes!
British stuffs probably better anyway,
If you can find an old British made Record vise, they're every bit as good as a Wilton. Shame that the name is getting slapped on low quality chinese made vises now though.
I never knew of a file card, I learned something today!
I found an axe in the uk that cost with the current conversion to dollars costs $7 it's a hatchet about 14" long good grain orientation USA hickory not a great edge or steel but it's a good cheap light fairly sharp hatchet to buy for a beginner
Nice tutorial, thank you.
I honestly love using my ax more than anything else. Sure, chainsaws might be faster and helpful for speeding up massive debris cleanup, but everyone should be comfortable working with axes and hatchets (Especially since it only requires manpower, not gasoline nor electricity).
I love traditional work
Same process I use on my axe, shape the edge with a file and hone with a stone. I use a wet stone though, not sure if his stone is supposed to be dry or not but I doubt it. With a wet stone you can tell if you have the right angle on the stone if slurry is developing on the side of the blade opposite to the stone. My axe is so sharp I can get through a 2 inch sapling in a single cut.
Good tutorial. Thanks.
Useful information, Thanks.
Like your video but not the constant reference to "good American made" products. I, being from Canada, know that just being American/Canadian made does not guarantee quality!!