From a lot of experience, its not just about how sharp you can get it, its about what you plan on using it for. For example, if you want to "split" firewood, you want a wider cut angle on the head. You dont want the axe head to cut, you want it to split. Now if you are sharpening a felling axe, then you want a shorter angle and sharper blade. I hope that makes sense.
Ya, the thicker axe pushing the log apart easier with force to split it and the a thinner sharper axe will cut deeper into a tree because the force is more concentrated at the blade and with a thinner head less friction and can glide further into the wood.
Even a felling axe should not be really sharp. They are not made of high grade steel for a reason. A file is the only tool required and making the angle shallow on any axe will seriously hamper its ability to clear chippings when cutting cross grain. I would only put a knife edge on an axe with various grades of sand paper if I needed to get the required time to get paid for a You Tube video.
Finally someone who know what their talking about. Why don't more of us do these. There seems to be a lot of videos made that work for the person using them but not for (or expanded enough to include exactly the styles you've just explained)
Ace bandage, I was planning on putting a lot of that Information in and explaining the different edges for different uses. But the video had already gotten way longer than I thought it was going to be. To put all the information into a video I feel comfortable to explain it would have taken me an about an hour. I do plan do do a sharpening series one day putting everything I know into and axes will be type of tool I explain. But since I haven't made a video for a while it might take me a while to get to it. This particular axe was sharpened this way for carving and delimbing/chopping green wood. Both tasks that can benifit from a more refined edge and finer edge angle.
Always a great trick ESPECIALLY for those using GRINDERS and heavy files or rasps to start.... using those methods You're taking a lot of material of the blade and I mean VERY QUICKLY!
My grandfather taught me to sharpen ax heads the same way. He also taught me to use regular old paraffin wax to dip the cutting edge. That would preserve the entire edge till the ax was used again. Great video. Thank You
this is inspirational and one of my favorite videos on TH-cam that I've watched many times. Thank you for your gentle voice and mesmerizing worth ethic and calm attention to detail. I'd love to listen to you tell stories around a campfire.
That's the aussieist thing I've ever seen just a bloke with some sandpaper and paitance sat in his shorts and flip flops worrying about other people cutting themselves on the way past. I loved every second of this good job feller
Good to mention the bit about the burr. Most people don't understand why an edge seems sharper on one side than the other. Getting that part reduced or removed is the key to any good sharpening regardless of angle on any edge be it axe, knife, planer blades or whatever. As a retired person on limited income I could never justify buying one of those Ken Onion special belt sharpening systems but got one for Christmas from one of my sons. It's the kind of gift that keeps on giving a long long time! Now I keep every edge I own in tip top shape. It's good for all but the final stropping unless you buy a leather belt that fits the machine like I did. I put just a hint of black abrasive compound on the belt then finish the edge in under a minute. No matter the angle I can then duplicate your hair shaving and paper slicing demos. I never get tired of keeping not only my tools sharp but tune up tools, knives, axes, scissors, etc. for my four kids, friends, and even couple good neighbors! Your hand axe is a carbon copy of my prized WWII surplus axe I bought at a garage sale many years ago! It's equally good to keep wood handles of tools in tip top shape with that linseed oil as well. On thing, I usually daub a light coating on the new the newly exposed bare metal as well as lightly soak the leather scabbard that covers the edge when not in use. I also wipe down and rehone/oil the edge after use, specially if cutting green wood! All these measures make your edges last even longer! Nice detailed video & thanks for the effort!
Cheers. The model of hatchet I have here is called the 'Plumb Dreadnought'. Quite a nice piece. It is a shame that these days everything just gets thrown out or left to rust and rot. Then a new tool is purchased. I have learnt that it can be quite a joy to look after your tools and keeping them in top shape also means they are much more fun and easier to use. I haven't tried the worksharp systems yet. One day I will pick one up. Seems like a neat little tool.
Boiled linseed oil rubbed on the axe head will dry & form a protective coating until it is rubbed off during use. Raw linseed oil won't cure & will remain tacky. I've read that it's also great for mold growth.
You know I heard that you put linseed oil on once a day for a week... once a week for a month... once a month for a year... and once a year for the life of the handle... just a FYI... GREAT video....
Yeah i have heard that one. No harm in trying. I tried once with something and forgot about it after a couple days lol. This axe i got from a friend who looked after it. So it already has a nice build up. So it is probably at the once a year phase. Once you get the handle like that it is amazingly comfortable on the hands.
I just this afternoon finished sharpening a camping hatchet. I thought it was ready to put away with my gear until I came across this video. Now Im going to try this technique and REALLY sharpen it. Thanks for the excellent tutorial.
One other thing to do... Wax the head. It will cut better and rust less. Car wax works just fine. It will help to keep the pitch off too. Beautiful edge!
Thanks. Yeah I forgot to oil the head on camera. I have seen wax used on saws but not axes. Sounds like a good alternative. Especially if putting away for storage.
When I was a kid in the bush, still in primary school, it was my job to chop up all the firewood for our wood stove in the kitchen. A trick my father showed to help keep the axe handle tight in the axe head was to, every now and then, stand the axe, head down in a can with some linseed oil in it. The wooden handle draws the oil up into the head and helps stop the wood from shrinking and becoming loose in the head. You don't need much oil - just enough to make contact with the end of the handle will do the job. As for the shaving tip to test sharpness, don't do what I do when sharpening kitchen knives. Being the master procrastinator that I am, I put off sharpening my knives until there isn't one sharp one left in the knife draw, then I sharpen them all in one go. Depending on your point of view, I'm either blessed or cursed with very hairy arms and legs, so by the time the job is completed, I look like an old mangy dog! For some odd reason, the sheilas don't go for this look.
I have heard of that trick. One of my axes may need that but most are tight already. I know what you mean with sharpening. Sometimes I don't sharpen mine because I have been doing everyone else's and can't be bothered. I don't usually do the shave test as much now. Unless showing off. Phone book paper is my go to now. And the 3 finger test. I remember when I was starting to get competent at sharpening. I had done a bunch of knives and my arms were all patchy with bald spots. My friend was all like, what's wrong with your arms. Also damn I though the mangy dog look was in. Must be the problem
My grandad gave me his old axe when I moved to my own house, he said it hadn’t been sharpened or used in over 45years and he got it in 1928. Very rusty and the handle was no good so I resorted it, it was the first axe I resorted. I now do it as a hobby. Been doing it for 3 years now and the one thing I could never get right was to get it sharp like this and now I can 👍 thank you 🤜 🇬🇧
I absolutely love the premise here! For the guys that don’t have the equipment that I (I sharpen blades semi-professionally) have. I would recommend that you use wet/dry paper and a pump sprayer with some WD40. The oil will keep the material from clogging your paper so quickly. And the pressure from the sprayer will actually blow some of it out of the paper to lengthen the life of the paper.its a beautiful hatchet as well.
Thank you for sharing your wisdom , I greatly appreciate it , this reminded me of how my father(rip) would sit an spend hours on his blades and stuff . I want to thank you for tha refresher course enabling me to understand tha sharpening process . These lost arts are especially important in these uncertain days , I'm glad to see so many "old school" guys sharing their necessary knowledge with generations that have no father to teach these important skills . You are greatly appreciated. And your ax is absolutely amazing , I could see tha mirror finish , you should b proud 👍 God bless & God speed 🍃 🌹
Thanks. It's not quite a mirror finish. More like a high grit satin. I wouldn't call it a lost art. Sure I am told a lot less people percentage wise know how to sharpen. But there is way more information than ever about it. Available to anybody who wants to learn with the internet. Or who is able to buy books. Thanks for the comment.
I would not put much stock into the 'It's too sharp' comments Scott. There is a lot of misinformation out there and some just like to cast shade to boost an ego. A tool that is properly sharpened makes all the difference. If they actually worked with them, they would have the same opinion. There are only three things that dictate your sharpening: The intended task of the tool, The ability of the tool to take and hold that edge and finally it's your ability to put it there. If you're good with the last two points, the first is a no brainier. By the way, lovely axe mate. There is something very special about tuning up old tools. That one is a keeper. All the best, Ben
Thanks. I am kinda surprised how many of those comments I am getting. I think most people just use them for splitting wood these days or chopping tree roots or something. Which would make sense not to make it too sharp. And yeah it's a lovely axe alright.
Excellent job. It takes patience to sharpen tools properly. Many people don't know how or lack the patience to do it properly. I admire your work and would agree that waxing the head would be the one additional step to protect the head.
That is one sharp axe :)You are right about people not looking after their gear I go round the council kerbside clean ups and pick up old furniture to restore have come across a few good old tools I have restored great upload thanks
I used to spend ludicrous amounts of time with stones, working my way up through the grits... This method of yours is excellent, if you have loads of sandpaper and time - and don’t get me wrong - t’s always good to know the many ways a thing can be done, especially the most basic, so you know how to do it when resources are limited. For the less patient, drop $50 on a cheap 1x30 benchtop belt sander and throw another $15 down on a set of belts in all the grits from 80 to 1000 - start on whatever low grit you need to, given the condition of the blade, work your way up. Your axe will be equally razor sharp and beautifully polished in a tiny fraction of the time - about 5-10 minutes - less if you do it frequently. The “flexy” section of the belt is perfect for achieving a convex grind on an axe bit, as you want that slight curve toward the edge to keep it strong. For flatter grinds, you can use the flat platen. I sharpen everything on my 1 x 30 belt sander - love that thing. Belts are super cheap, too - you can get a full set on Amazon for $15. I also got a 1x30 leather stropping belt, with compound, which is the final step for the mirror finish. That system makes sharpening almost anything super fast and easy-peezy. I sharpen way too many tools, way too often to spend a ton of time on it - which used to mean I ended up having a lot of dull tools. I was amazed how inexpensive and fast the belt sander method has proven to be. Those machines are so cheap, you could easily buy several of them and have them set up next to each other with different grits ready to go. The belts are also very easy to change, so I just swap them out, as my workbench space is limited. To each his own. Great video. Keep up the good work, mate!
@Robbie Spil I just got a super basic 1/3hp 1”x30” belt sander on Amazon. I believe it was about $52, two or three years ago. There’s no brand name on it - it’s green - lol. Some of them have a side disc sander built onto the right side. Mine is just the belt. You can get much nicer ones… Rikon makes a good one, and I will probably get another higher quality one, eventually, as this one is noisy, but it gets the job done. For the small amount of money you pay, it’s amazing how much knife and tool sharpening and just grinding of any sort you can accomplish with one of them. Great entry level grinder for knife making, as well. You go through the belts quicker because they’re shorter, but they’re also a waaay cheaper than 48’s or 2x72’s. The offerings change all the time. I just find the most belts with the most grits for the least amount of money in a set on Amazon whenever I get close to running low and spend another $15-$18 to re-up on a whole ton of belts. Enjoy!
Johnny Rockets, I have a 1x30 but don't often use it for sharpening. I wouldn't touch these (good quality and condition) old antique axes to a sander unless it needed a bevel cut in. I had never actually used sandpaper for sharpening an axe before this video. It was just to try a method which hopefully people with no tools could replicate. I usually use files then stones, then strops. But I do use sanders on things I need to reprofile (not often knives though) just did an adze the other day on my 4x36 sander. Cut a relief bevel in behind the cutting edge bevel. It came out awesome. Doing it by hand would have been hard work as it was in real bad condition to start with.
Been doing that way for years 1x30 Try some diamond compound on your leather strop. 1 micron is fine enough. Restaurant chef knives are 5 minutes tops and anything else that needs an edge. On the axe, why? They won’t hold that edge past the first few chops anyway and they are sticky
Straightforward how-to would be "same as anything else". But you don't want to do that to an axe or it stops being a good axe and becomes a crap knife. No knocks to the man in the captain's chair, it's a great vid still, just throwing in my unsolicited 2 cents
@@sluttybutt A sharp hatchet is a must for any work that is not splitting wood. For example I carve spoons and bows and the first step is always the axe work. It would be VERY dangerous with a dull axe!
Douglas E Knapp, carving and cutting green wood are where a razor sharp axe really shine. It would glance off a lot if even semi dull when carving. Also would have to cut at larger angles which makes a mess of the piece.
Well done Im an axeman from newzealand ( profesional chopping) so nice to see you put a propper edge on an axe with out ruining that 1 inch cutting edge using grinder or flapper disc .well done .nice toutorial vid.big thumbs up.
A VERY sharp axe !!!! Skilled hands. sandpaper and straight piece of wood. old school at it's very best !!!!! "Thank you for this video", J. Payne, Charlotte, North Carolina USA
Same here too, I tried sharpening my BK2 a while ago and I’ve completely messed it up, there are sharper spoons in my drawer than my ‘self-dulled’ Becker, I’m really pissed off at myself for it. This video has given me the push to try again, with fresh sandpaper, and patience... lots and lots of patience!!
as someone who has sharpened blades a lot let me give you one piece of advice about axes: get a good one from the start, putting a good edge on a garbage axe is never worth it, trust me, touching up an edge that was good at some point, takes less effort and lasts you longer.
xPumaFangx hi friend. Agent orange is right. My full title is a carpenter and joiner. In Greta Britain 🇬🇧 we call ourselves joiners for short . But a joiner makes the, lets say stairs, windows, doors or furniture and a carpenter fits them. To obtain our title of carpenter and joiner we have take a 2 yr apprenticeship that teaches us both building and fitting of joinery. Going back to sharpening. Most joiners have their own workshop. Mine is no bigger than a 6x4 meter shed. When I have something on my mind I often get my chisel roll from the van and spend a half hour to an hour sharpening. It helps me meditate. Gives me time to think. Hope this helps.
Having declared my dissatisfaction with this sharpener last night th-cam.com/users/postUgkxDcr-y2Pf6xdnrFHrSP7dl9kpKaCozcSQ I thought about the problem some more. It occurred to me that I might be undoing each attempt at achieving a sharp edge by the repeated attempts. So, I tried to clean up the unsatisfactory result by honing with only positions 3 and 4.Miracle!! A really nicely sharpened chef's knife, more than enough to handle my needs. Admittedly, it did not reach professionally sharpened razor-fineness, but it is now significantly sharper than it was. A bout of breaking down carrots convinced me. So, major apologies to the manufacturer, Amazon, and all happy and potential owners! Follow the directions: don't buy it if you have ceramic blades; and don't overwork your knife blade.
Figured this out a few years ago, I use an aluminum blanks with sandpaper and the edge-pro stones. 👍👍 The edges are no joke, and it works on the hardest steels.
That was an awesome master class in how to get a bloody sharp axe with no bs involved. Thanks heaps mate, gonna hit the shed and dig my bugger out and give it some love. Cheers brother and all the best.
Thanks so much for the info You got straight into and didn't talk a lot about the same thing over and over. You have shown me a way that I can afford to do it.
I used to polish blades with polishing compound and a fabric bench grinder wheel, gets blades that are somewhat sharp to beyond reasonable levels, but this looks so much nicer on the blade
This side to side technique is new to me. I have always either circled or used the stone from the direction of the base, out towards the tip. It is a complete novelty to me and I am about to have a go at replicating. Using no lubricant is new to me too. I have always wet my wet/dry sandpaper or used a stone with oil or dishwash detergent (a fad I went through back in the '90's). Having just done up all my tool handles over the past week, it is now time to start on the metalwork; so this video suggestion was good timing, thanks to youtube!
Great video, thanks for this! First time axe owner awaiting delivery today and after watching this I've got no doubts I'll be able to keep it shaving sharp without spending a ton. Thanks again!
Wonderful! Thank you for sharing this info. My boys and I have been struggling with sharpening our hatchet and axe. I'm looking forward to testing this method out!
Good straightforward video on a basic technique from which every outdoorsman, survivor oriented person, or simply anyone who has the responsibilities of keeping their edged tools sharp may gain some extra knowledge. But the "proof of the putting" is such an anticlimax to very much hard and precise work to reprofile and finish a truly sharp and working edge, in my opinion. And I am befuddled each and every time I watch someone, who has spent all that time to properly sharpen an edged tool, prove its worth as the tool it was meant to be, by shaving their arm or slice, dice, and otherwise mutilate a piece of printer paper! I am 78 years old and have been sharpening edged tools at one level or another for probably 69 of those 78 years and I have only used the "arm shaving" technique to show my "great" experience at sharpening once and it wasn't even sharp enough to accidentally "break" off one hair!! I was 11 at the time and I vowed that I would allow the tool to "speak" for itself, in the future, as far as how sharp it was for the job it was meant to do. And axe was invented and modified down through eons of time with on one goal in mind, to chop, split, dimension, or render a piece of WOOD [ DOUBLE-U OH OH DEE!! ] from raw materials into something of use and value to the owner!! Why all the theatrics with shaving body parts or slicing a sheet of paper down to a pile of shreds which has to be gathered up and thrown in the trash at the end of the infomercial?? Take that axe outside, find a tree, limb, stump, or otherwise piece of wood and chop WOOD, for cryin' out loud ....... Just sayin', it would make a lot more sense to use the tool for what it was made to be used. It's like sharpening a 2 man bucking saw and then using it to CARVE THE Thanksgiving Ham!! I seriously wonder sometimes how many "manly" guys have demonstrated this resultant technique of sharpening prowess and are wearing scars from the final episode of the demonstration??
This is the best video on using sand paper on youtube. Hands down. No contest. I really like your attitude of listening to music or a podcast and relaxing as you work. It's the attitude of a fine craftsman . . . they love their work and become mesmerized by it . . . . which there are so few of them. Thank you brother. Great post.
Thank you for your video now I know how to sharpen my axe. I never knew the steps until now. You have been very helpful. God Bless you and your family and have a great day.
I really enjoyed this no-nonsense, informative and concise video. Will have to try that technique on my Tommy axe tomorrow. That denim sushi looks yummy, by the way. Thank you.
Just bought a council tool hatchet for my shop. Its got a profile but its not terribly sharp. Ill be fixing that this week. Thanks for the good look at how you do it.
Awesome video. Exactly the kind of help I need because I'm one of those folks who doesn't want to spend hundreds of dollars on sharpening stones. Thanks for the super clear explanation and the demo.
I have a bit of an alternative to propose here. People can become obsessed with sharpness as defined by the microscopic continuity and pointyness of the corner. However if you do sharpness tests such as paper cutting tests, you will find out that there is a bit more to this than meets the eye. Most people don't know this, but serration, meaning the microscopic sized saw shape on a cutting corner can be a good path to cutting as well. medical scalpels for example are purposely not ground sharp, meaning smooth, but ground to have a serrated corner. Something similar can be applied to most outdoor working tools, from axes to knives or a scythe. I inherited some simple sand stone sharpening stones from my great granddad, these are for the concerns of sharpening fanatics insanely course, but what they do is give any cutting tool a mighty dangerous and sharp serrated corner. If you go and watch old videos of people bucking and felling with axes you will never see them polishing their axes, however you will see all of them carrying such a simple sharpening stone on their person to retouch their axe while at work. I can just advice you to try it out!
I carry a small stone and touch up my edge as I go. I even carry a small diamond 'stone' in my tool belt and hit up my utility knife every so often. It's faster than changing blades :)
This was a GREAT video man... I'm a 3x state champion axe thrower. I ALWAYS kept my 24" double bitted razor sharp as well. I would shave my face just to prove it to people but this brother here is in a different world with his! I'm gonna have to step it up 🤘🏻
I can get my hatchet so sharp that I can shave with it. I might use a small worn scrap of emery to polish up the sides, but a reasonably fine sharpening stone will do. The stone I use was given to me many years ago because it was worn like a swayback horse, but it works perfectly for my axe, my hatchet, my cane knife, my adze and any other none-precision tools. You are spending a fortune on emery which is not necessary. Neither do you need a clamp, or work bench. The job can be done perfectly well with just two hands, a stone and some water or hoof and horn oil. Neat's-foot oil in other words. Water works fine, but neat's-foot suspends the stone dust and metal powder off of the stone, so you only need a small amount of it, and it is less likely to drip dirty grindings, as water does, on your hands etc.
Well damn, sharpened 3 axes and a machete and took it up to 5000 grit. So damned pretty and dangerous I hesitated using them. Fooking lethal! Holy crap. Cuts through white pine like a hot knife in butter. Good tutorial. Hats off brother.
You have a good one too. I have 2 old Plumb double bit axes I found at the base of an oak tree buried in the dirt. Brought both back to "life ", installed new handles and wrapped fine nylon twine about 4 inches down the handle with 2 or 3 layers soaking it in epoxy. Made the handles very durable if you struck it on a limb. They would both shave even after repeated use. I had never tried that before, was happy with the results. 40 years later I've replaced the handle on one, about to do the other. Those bits will last generations. Great steel from mid 20th century. Finally made guards from ABS tubing. They tend to cut anything they're against including clothing and body parts underneath. Much safer to carry now.
When I was kid growing up late 60 s and 70 that's all I wanted b b gun s pocket knives an hachet s and the woods god to go back there again god bless American 🇺🇸✌
I grew up in the 80's I also played in the woods and build tree forts with just ax and knives loved the time my brothers and friends had spent camping and playing in the wild . great times.
Love this guy - he goes on about Safety and then you see what he has on his feet! Ho Chi Mihn sandels / flip flops / call 'em what you will but safe they are not!
I'm trying to restore my grandfather's hatchet, it's green from rust at this point... Re-Profiled it today using a random sharpening stone I have (I don't know the grit) but couldn't make it get a sharp edge (can't cut my hand, and I tried) Will see if I can get some sandpaper and a piece of leather on a hardware store near my home tomorrow, if not I might have to try purchasing some supplies from the internet (not my preferred option due to delivery time) Anyways, thanks for the simple video!
Just came across this video. Very nice. I have several Kelly Works axe heads. They are made very well with great steel. Holds an edge for quite sometime. I love to sharpen my axes and knives, it's very relaxing and rewarding.
Yeah they are good axes. I am more of a knife guy. I find it quite relaxing as well. You get comfortable, take your time, listen and feel for the stones feedback. It is quite mesmerizing. But sometimes you just need to bang an edge on. It is more of a chor when doing that but still fun.
No worries. I would just recommend doing it on one that you only intend to use for green wood or for carving. Those tasks you do see a benefit. Still have to maintain them to keep them in top shape though. You get rapidly diminishing returns refining the edge like this for general wood processing. Maybe 400 grit max for that kind of thing.
14:45 You are describing my hatchet. - LOL I am going to give it to my Grandson who is a Boy Scout so I'm going to put it into shape for him. Thanks for sharing this video showing me how to do that.
Haha thanks. Depending upon the condition of the edge you may have to grind a bevel onto it. The hatchet i had here alreay had an established bevel. If using hand tools using a file like i did here works. But if you have loads of steel to take off then a belt sander with a fresh 40-60 grit belt works great. Then finish up with files and sandpaper/stones.
Thanks. Yeah most Aussies are probably a little too layed back in their sheds or home safety wise. Not uncommon for people to split a couple bits of wood in them either.
I'm going to be busy next couple days doing my axes and hatchets. Super awesome informative easy to follow, watch and learn from video. Thank you, I've learnt something new and practical for my tools. I normally sharpen just for splitting timber and general bush work collecting firewood.
It shouldn't take that long. But if that is all you are using it for personally I don't bother refining the edge as much as I did in the video. You won't get added benifit for those tasks. Learning to sharpen well with a file will be plenty for those tasks. If a good axe I would take it to about 400 grit with either a stone or sandpaper and then strop for maintaining the edge. Or a little pocket stone for maintaining the edge has become a favorite for me at the moment. I just work the micro bevel each time you touch it up. You can do this loads of times before you move high enough into the main bevel and need to address it again. Hope this helps and have fun.
Many people just sharpen the very edge. This results in double convex ax that will barely do anything but split kindling. Where you use a piece of coarse sandpaper on a flat stick I would flatten the edge with a fine metal file and then move to the finer grits. Then finish with a leather strop charged with extra fine grinding compound. Scary sharp hatchets, axes and chisels are so much easier to use. Worth the time.
as a hunter that will spend days in the mountains I find having a scary sharp axe a great benefit. I can use the axe like I would a large belt knife foregoing the need to carry a belt knife. The axe serves for all the big cutting jobs on the animal I have killed and a smaller pocket folder will take care of the more precise cutting I may need.
That is a good point. I didn't think of using a hatchet in that context. Sounds like a dream going bush for a few days. I don't know anything about hunting or butchering though.
I have heard that one. I would prefer to use something a bit coarser if it takes that long to sharpen though lol. This took me about 30min including messing with the camera. Took a bit longer if you include cutting sandpaper and finding clamps.
They are beautiful axes. A friend of mine had or has one. I can't remember if he sold it. Interestingly the double bit axes never really took off in Australia. Apparently the wood was too hard and they would bow at the eye of the axe. I don't know if they ever made a thicker one.
Great video, thank you for explaining how to sharpen my old hatchet. I just found it in my old workshop at my ex's house,, it's missing the wooden handle and needs sharpening so it will make a fun project... I was curious after watching your " easy to watch/learn video on sharpening my old hatchet to see how many people watched it.. Holy Cow, I think I'm number 1,260,000? That says a lot about You and your character. So happy I found your channel, I'm now a new subsciber
@@terrysmith7740 flap discs going through the grit grades thats the way. Finish with wet and dry. You really have to love your axe for this dedication.
Good video, thanks for taking the time to make it. I'm in the U.S. so Plumb axes are not that hard to come by. I like many of the handles they used on the vintagec ones. I'm a sucker fit a nice fawns foot! If I find a nice handle that's had nails and other things inserted into the top in an attempt to secure the head, I'll carefully try to remove them, along with the head without destroying the handle. Sometimes you can reuse the handle with a proper wedge. Or, you might be able to trim off 3/8 -1/2 an inch and use it then. You may need to remove a small amount of wood on the handle were the bottom of the head meets the handle. If that won't work, save the handle anyway. I've come across other heads that I could fit a used, cut down handle on. I hang mine with the handle proud on top of the head, like yours. I Sisto prefer to use only wooden wedges, no metal. I've done a few with a second, crossing wedge as well, and I love the way that looks. Plumb made some axes for the Boy Scouts. I have two with the BSA stamp on them. Plumb hatchets seem so be better splitting heads than carving ones IMO. If you come across a Nurlund axe head, snatch it up!
Thanks and absolutely. Now I appreciate these tools a lot more. The chip at the top was from when I didn't appreciate it as much. Now I look after it and enjoy it.
Thanks. I hope it works out for you. Also files and stones work great in this set up and if you already have them they work out cheaper than sandpaper. Just make sure the stones are flat.
Obviously, you know your way around a sharpening stone. Thank you for this nice video When I sharpen, I take the tool down to clean metal with a rough stone at a shallow angle. My stopping point would be past the burr stage if there are large chips and nicks. I watched that major flaw in the tip of the blade (that you pointed out) go through several levels of sandpaper grit. Not to be critical, but wouldn't it have been better to clean that up with the 120 grit first? I go from rough at a shallow angle to 1000 grit at 30 degrees, usually with no steps in between. The ceramic hones that I use, made by Spyderco, by the way, are outstanding. I have fine grit hones that I bought 40 years ago that are still in great shape. They create a great razor edge very quickly. You did a wonderful job of polishing that blade, but a workingman wouldn't have the time to invest. Overall, you have excellent control of your hands to be able to maintain the same angle without using a machine rest to do so. It took me at least a year, back in 1972-73, to do that.
I am very curious as to what the second sentence means. Not being defensive in any way. Genuinely curious if you think I am one or why they would love it. Also how would you get it from a video?
And always wear the safety flip flops in case you drop the axe on your toes!!
🤣
if that doesn't cut it a hi-vis should do the trick
Ehhh Aussies and kiwis don't worry about safety gear hahaha they're silly like that
@@JakeFromSedrowoolley but how are people going to know if their a tradie or not , its free advertising
Kiwis are direct descendant of the Hobbitt- feet like petrified leather- Krieckey!
Completely low tech, no fancy tools, realistic and achievable by anyone. No waffle, distracting music, god bless ya ...
Is a ripper!
From a lot of experience, its not just about how sharp you can get it, its about what you plan on using it for. For example, if you want to "split" firewood, you want a wider cut angle on the head. You dont want the axe head to cut, you want it to split. Now if you are sharpening a felling axe, then you want a shorter angle and sharper blade. I hope that makes sense.
Ya, the thicker axe pushing the log apart easier with force to split it and the a thinner sharper axe will cut deeper into a tree because the force is more concentrated at the blade and with a thinner head less friction and can glide further into the wood.
@@kayden5238 Ecactly. Good breakdown.
Even a felling axe should not be really sharp. They are not made of high grade steel for a reason. A file is the only tool required and making the angle shallow on any axe will seriously hamper its ability to clear chippings when cutting cross grain. I would only put a knife edge on an axe with various grades of sand paper if I needed to get the required time to get paid for a You Tube video.
Finally someone who know what their talking about. Why don't more of us do these. There seems to be a lot of videos made that work for the person using them but not for (or expanded enough to include exactly the styles you've just explained)
Ace bandage, I was planning on putting a lot of that Information in and explaining the different edges for different uses. But the video had already gotten way longer than I thought it was going to be. To put all the information into a video I feel comfortable to explain it would have taken me an about an hour. I do plan do do a sharpening series one day putting everything I know into and axes will be type of tool I explain. But since I haven't made a video for a while it might take me a while to get to it.
This particular axe was sharpened this way for carving and delimbing/chopping green wood. Both tasks that can benifit from a more refined edge and finer edge angle.
If you color the edge with a sharpie between grits, you can use it as a guide coat and be sure you got through the scratches of the last one
Nice! Thank you for that!
Always a great trick ESPECIALLY for those using GRINDERS and heavy files or rasps to start.... using those methods You're taking a lot of material of the blade and I mean VERY QUICKLY!
We used to use engineers blue in college for seeing if your piece is flat, I totally forgot about this technique, thanks!
I'd rather just use my eyes than waste sharpie
now thats some smart ass shit there thanks for the tip!
My grandfather taught me to sharpen ax heads the same way. He also taught me to use regular old paraffin wax to dip the cutting edge. That would preserve the entire edge till the ax was used again. Great video. Thank You
Thanks for the paraffin tip!
another great tip cheers!
I'm a woman from the good 'ole USA, and I say that shine is beautiful!!!!! I have definitely learned something today! That was cool to watch!!
Have you been scared? You are pleased by the shine, enlightened by his tutorial, and impressed by the presentation but he was promising scary.
@@65csx83 what is this comment
I reckon you're single. A dog at home with you? Some chickens? Maybe a horse? 😆
this is inspirational and one of my favorite videos on TH-cam that I've watched many times.
Thank you for your gentle voice and mesmerizing worth ethic and calm attention to detail.
I'd love to listen to you tell stories around a campfire.
That's the aussieist thing I've ever seen just a bloke with some sandpaper and paitance sat in his shorts and flip flops worrying about other people cutting themselves on the way past.
I loved every second of this good job feller
Why are you wearing flip flops?
@@mrdaveyjones5432 why wouldn't you be.
*thongs
I just gotten a back yard big enough to warrant tools and I have no idea how to maintain them. This is fantastic, thanks mate!
I spent a few hours sharpening my knives and I don't think I've ever seen one you could shave with 😮. Awesome!
Good to mention the bit about the burr. Most people don't understand why an edge seems sharper on one side than the other. Getting that part reduced or removed is the key to any good sharpening regardless of angle on any edge be it axe, knife, planer blades or whatever. As a retired person on limited income I could never justify buying one of those Ken Onion special belt sharpening systems but got one for Christmas from one of my sons. It's the kind of gift that keeps on giving a long long time! Now I keep every edge I own in tip top shape. It's good for all but the final stropping unless you buy a leather belt that fits the machine like I did. I put just a hint of black abrasive compound on the belt then finish the edge in under a minute. No matter the angle I can then duplicate your hair shaving and paper slicing demos. I never get tired of keeping not only my tools sharp but tune up tools, knives, axes, scissors, etc. for my four kids, friends, and even couple good neighbors!
Your hand axe is a carbon copy of my prized WWII surplus axe I bought at a garage sale many years ago! It's equally good to keep wood handles of tools in tip top shape with that linseed oil as well. On thing, I usually daub a light coating on the new the newly exposed bare metal as well as lightly soak the leather scabbard that covers the edge when not in use. I also wipe down and rehone/oil the edge after use, specially if cutting green wood! All these measures make your edges last even longer! Nice detailed video & thanks for the effort!
Cheers. The model of hatchet I have here is called the 'Plumb Dreadnought'. Quite a nice piece.
It is a shame that these days everything just gets thrown out or left to rust and rot. Then a new tool is purchased. I have learnt that it can be quite a joy to look after your tools and keeping them in top shape also means they are much more fun and easier to use.
I haven't tried the worksharp systems yet. One day I will pick one up. Seems like a neat little tool.
Boiled linseed oil rubbed on the axe head will dry & form a protective coating until it is rubbed off during use. Raw linseed oil won't cure & will remain tacky. I've read that it's also great for mold growth.
You know I heard that you put linseed oil on once a day for a week... once a week for a month... once a month for a year... and once a year for the life of the handle... just a FYI... GREAT video....
Yeah i have heard that one. No harm in trying. I tried once with something and forgot about it after a couple days lol. This axe i got from a friend who looked after it. So it already has a nice build up. So it is probably at the once a year phase.
Once you get the handle like that it is amazingly comfortable on the hands.
M
I just this afternoon finished sharpening a camping hatchet. I thought it was ready to put away with my gear until I came across this video. Now Im going to try this technique and REALLY sharpen it.
Thanks for the excellent tutorial.
One other thing to do... Wax the head. It will cut better and rust less. Car wax works just fine. It will help to keep the pitch off too. Beautiful edge!
Thanks. Yeah I forgot to oil the head on camera. I have seen wax used on saws but not axes. Sounds like a good alternative. Especially if putting away for storage.
Will that work for mower blades too? Ty
LamBeau Leeper, I just responded to your other comment, I put the answer there. But good luck and have fun :)
@@LambeauLeeeper what? Why would you? Just smear a thin layer of oil on the blades before you put it in storage.
A good way to get rid of the micro burrs and hone the final edge is to wipe it with Isopropyl alcohol. Then wax it. I use a thin layer of car wax.
I just love those cool Aussie air-cooled safety shoes sport!
When I was a kid in the bush, still in primary school, it was my job to chop up all the firewood for our wood stove in the kitchen. A trick my father showed to help keep the axe handle tight in the axe head was to, every now and then, stand the axe, head down in a can with some linseed oil in it. The wooden handle draws the oil up into the head and helps stop the wood from shrinking and becoming loose in the head. You don't need much oil - just enough to make contact with the end of the handle will do the job.
As for the shaving tip to test sharpness, don't do what I do when sharpening kitchen knives. Being the master procrastinator that I am, I put off sharpening my knives until there isn't one sharp one left in the knife draw, then I sharpen them all in one go. Depending on your point of view, I'm either blessed or cursed with very hairy arms and legs, so by the time the job is completed, I look like an old mangy dog! For some odd reason, the sheilas don't go for this look.
I have heard of that trick. One of my axes may need that but most are tight already.
I know what you mean with sharpening. Sometimes I don't sharpen mine because I have been doing everyone else's and can't be bothered.
I don't usually do the shave test as much now. Unless showing off. Phone book paper is my go to now. And the 3 finger test.
I remember when I was starting to get competent at sharpening. I had done a bunch of knives and my arms were all patchy with bald spots. My friend was all like, what's wrong with your arms.
Also damn I though the mangy dog look was in. Must be the problem
ROFLMAO
My grandad gave me his old axe when I moved to my own house, he said it hadn’t been sharpened or used in over 45years and he got it in 1928. Very rusty and the handle was no good so I resorted it, it was the first axe I resorted. I now do it as a hobby.
Been doing it for 3 years now and the one thing I could never get right was to get it sharp like this and now I can 👍 thank you 🤜 🇬🇧
When you restore it, what do you use on the axehead to protect it from rust? I’m finishing my first axe restoration.
Socrates458 I curious about that too.
I’ve never sharpened using paper, looks like fun…thank you brother!
On the woods cabin thirty years many axes and knives of all kinds it's good to see how others maintain their tools. Thanks
Nice job. I keep my small axes and hatchets scary sharp because I carve with them.
I absolutely love the premise here! For the guys that don’t have the equipment that I (I sharpen blades semi-professionally) have. I would recommend that you use wet/dry paper and a pump sprayer with some WD40. The oil will keep the material from clogging your paper so quickly. And the pressure from the sprayer will actually blow some of it out of the paper to lengthen the life of the paper.its a beautiful hatchet as well.
Thank you for sharing your wisdom , I greatly appreciate it , this reminded me of how my father(rip) would sit an spend hours on his blades and stuff . I want to thank you for tha refresher course enabling me to understand tha sharpening process . These lost arts are especially important in these uncertain days , I'm glad to see so many "old school" guys sharing their necessary knowledge with generations that have no father to teach these important skills . You are greatly appreciated. And your ax is absolutely amazing , I could see tha mirror finish , you should b proud 👍
God bless & God speed 🍃 🌹
Thanks. It's not quite a mirror finish. More like a high grit satin.
I wouldn't call it a lost art. Sure I am told a lot less people percentage wise know how to sharpen. But there is way more information than ever about it. Available to anybody who wants to learn with the internet. Or who is able to buy books.
Thanks for the comment.
I would not put much stock into the 'It's too sharp' comments Scott. There is a lot of misinformation out there and some just like to cast shade to boost an ego. A tool that is properly sharpened makes all the difference. If they actually worked with them, they would have the same opinion.
There are only three things that dictate your sharpening: The intended task of the tool, The ability of the tool to take and hold that edge and finally it's your ability to put it there. If you're good with the last two points, the first is a no brainier.
By the way, lovely axe mate. There is something very special about tuning up old tools. That one is a keeper.
All the best,
Ben
Thanks. I am kinda surprised how many of those comments I am getting. I think most people just use them for splitting wood these days or chopping tree roots or something. Which would make sense not to make it too sharp.
And yeah it's a lovely axe alright.
Good job Scott, one of my favourite sayings from the bushmen past was, it's got to be sharp enough to shave a mouse asleep 👍🇦🇺.
Excellent job. It takes patience to sharpen tools properly. Many people don't know how or lack the patience to do it properly. I admire your work and would agree that waxing the head would be the one additional step to protect the head.
That is one sharp axe :)You are right about people not looking after their gear I go round the council kerbside clean ups and pick up old furniture to restore have come across a few good old tools I have restored great upload thanks
I used to spend ludicrous amounts of time with stones, working my way up through the grits... This method of yours is excellent, if you have loads of sandpaper and time - and don’t get me wrong - t’s always good to know the many ways a thing can be done, especially the most basic, so you know how to do it when resources are limited. For the less patient, drop $50 on a cheap 1x30 benchtop belt sander and throw another $15 down on a set of belts in all the grits from 80 to 1000 - start on whatever low grit you need to, given the condition of the blade, work your way up. Your axe will be equally razor sharp and beautifully polished in a tiny fraction of the time - about 5-10 minutes - less if you do it frequently. The “flexy” section of the belt is perfect for achieving a convex grind on an axe bit, as you want that slight curve toward the edge to keep it strong. For flatter grinds, you can use the flat platen. I sharpen everything on my 1 x 30 belt sander - love that thing. Belts are super cheap, too - you can get a full set on Amazon for $15. I also got a 1x30 leather stropping belt, with compound, which is the final step for the mirror finish. That system makes sharpening almost anything super fast and easy-peezy. I sharpen way too many tools, way too often to spend a ton of time on it - which used to mean I ended up having a lot of dull tools. I was amazed how inexpensive and fast the belt sander method has proven to be. Those machines are so cheap, you could easily buy several of them and have them set up next to each other with different grits ready to go. The belts are also very easy to change, so I just swap them out, as my workbench space is limited. To each his own. Great video. Keep up the good work, mate!
@Robbie Spil I just got a super basic 1/3hp 1”x30” belt sander on Amazon. I believe it was about $52, two or three years ago. There’s no brand name on it - it’s green - lol. Some of them have a side disc sander built onto the right side. Mine is just the belt. You can get much nicer ones… Rikon makes a good one, and I will probably get another higher quality one, eventually, as this one is noisy, but it gets the job done. For the small amount of money you pay, it’s amazing how much knife and tool sharpening and just grinding of any sort you can accomplish with one of them. Great entry level grinder for knife making, as well. You go through the belts quicker because they’re shorter, but they’re also a waaay cheaper than 48’s or 2x72’s. The offerings change all the time. I just find the most belts with the most grits for the least amount of money in a set on Amazon whenever I get close to running low and spend another $15-$18 to re-up on a whole ton of belts. Enjoy!
Johnny Rockets, I have a 1x30 but don't often use it for sharpening. I wouldn't touch these (good quality and condition) old antique axes to a sander unless it needed a bevel cut in.
I had never actually used sandpaper for sharpening an axe before this video. It was just to try a method which hopefully people with no tools could replicate. I usually use files then stones, then strops.
But I do use sanders on things I need to reprofile (not often knives though) just did an adze the other day on my 4x36 sander. Cut a relief bevel in behind the cutting edge bevel. It came out awesome. Doing it by hand would have been hard work as it was in real bad condition to start with.
Been doing that way for years 1x30
Try some diamond compound on your leather strop. 1 micron is fine enough. Restaurant chef knives are 5 minutes tops and anything else that needs an edge.
On the axe, why? They won’t hold that edge past the first few chops anyway and they are sticky
I’ve watched enough lumberjack competitions to know that aussies are amazing choppers so I’d listen to this man about keeping axes sharp
Lol.... Is this a joke?
Straight forward HOWTO.
No extraneous or non relevant bits.
Good job on the video and the axe sharpening.
Thanks. Glad you enjoyed.
Straightforward how-to would be "same as anything else". But you don't want to do that to an axe or it stops being a good axe and becomes a crap knife. No knocks to the man in the captain's chair, it's a great vid still, just throwing in my unsolicited 2 cents
@@sluttybutt what exactly do you not want to do to an axe? Sharpen it?
@@sluttybutt A sharp hatchet is a must for any work that is not splitting wood. For example I carve spoons and bows and the first step is always the axe work. It would be VERY dangerous with a dull axe!
Douglas E Knapp, carving and cutting green wood are where a razor sharp axe really shine. It would glance off a lot if even semi dull when carving. Also would have to cut at larger angles which makes a mess of the piece.
Well done
Im an axeman from newzealand ( profesional chopping) so nice to see you put a propper edge on an axe with out ruining that 1 inch cutting edge using grinder or flapper disc .well done .nice toutorial vid.big thumbs up.
A VERY sharp axe !!!! Skilled hands. sandpaper and straight piece of wood. old school at it's very best !!!!! "Thank you for this video", J. Payne, Charlotte, North Carolina USA
That’s a really steep angle for an ax I love a well maintained tool. All tools. 👍👍👍
Still a novice when it comes to sharpening my hatchet, but after watching your video I have a lot more confidence. Great tutorial!
Same here too, I tried sharpening my BK2 a while ago and I’ve completely messed it up, there are sharper spoons in my drawer than my ‘self-dulled’ Becker, I’m really pissed off at myself for it. This video has given me the push to try again, with fresh sandpaper, and patience... lots and lots of patience!!
as someone who has sharpened blades a lot let me give you one piece of advice about axes: get a good one from the start, putting a good edge on a garbage axe is never worth it, trust me, touching up an edge that was good at some point, takes less effort and lasts you longer.
I can relate when he said it’s like a meditative stage sharpening tools. I’m a joiner and I find this sharpening my chisels and plane blades. 😀🇬🇧
Yup! It's a contemplative activity.
I find deep relaxation on the toilet.
Hi Leothelion,
Honest question what is a joiner?
@@xPumaFangx A joiner is someone who knows all (or most) the joinery techniques of woodworking and can make cabinetry, furniture, and other things.
xPumaFangx hi friend. Agent orange is right. My full title is a carpenter and joiner. In Greta Britain 🇬🇧 we call ourselves joiners for short . But a joiner makes the, lets say stairs, windows, doors or furniture and a carpenter fits them. To obtain our title of carpenter and joiner we have take a 2 yr apprenticeship that teaches us both building and fitting of joinery. Going back to sharpening. Most joiners have their own workshop. Mine is no bigger than a 6x4 meter shed. When I have something on my mind I often get my chisel roll from the van and spend a half hour to an hour sharpening. It helps me meditate. Gives me time to think. Hope this helps.
Having declared my dissatisfaction with this sharpener last night th-cam.com/users/postUgkxDcr-y2Pf6xdnrFHrSP7dl9kpKaCozcSQ I thought about the problem some more. It occurred to me that I might be undoing each attempt at achieving a sharp edge by the repeated attempts. So, I tried to clean up the unsatisfactory result by honing with only positions 3 and 4.Miracle!! A really nicely sharpened chef's knife, more than enough to handle my needs. Admittedly, it did not reach professionally sharpened razor-fineness, but it is now significantly sharper than it was. A bout of breaking down carrots convinced me. So, major apologies to the manufacturer, Amazon, and all happy and potential owners! Follow the directions: don't buy it if you have ceramic blades; and don't overwork your knife blade.
Figured this out a few years ago, I use an aluminum blanks with sandpaper and the edge-pro stones. 👍👍
The edges are no joke, and it works on the hardest steels.
That was an awesome master class in how to get a bloody sharp axe with no bs involved. Thanks heaps mate, gonna hit the shed and dig my bugger out and give it some love. Cheers brother and all the best.
Thanks so much for the info
You got straight into and didn't talk a lot about the same thing over and over. You have shown me a way that I can afford to do it.
Top job mate. You've inspired me to sharpen my axe and knives this weekend, easily and cheaply. Thank you kindly
this is the best axe sharpening tutorial I've seen, cheers!
Wow thanks. I hope it's not the only one you have seen ;)
I used to polish blades with polishing compound and a fabric bench grinder wheel, gets blades that are somewhat sharp to beyond reasonable levels, but this looks so much nicer on the blade
This side to side technique is new to me. I have always either circled or used the stone from the direction of the base, out towards the tip. It is a complete novelty to me and I am about to have a go at replicating. Using no lubricant is new to me too. I have always wet my wet/dry sandpaper or used a stone with oil or dishwash detergent (a fad I went through back in the '90's). Having just done up all my tool handles over the past week, it is now time to start on the metalwork; so this video suggestion was good timing, thanks to youtube!
Great video, thanks for this! First time axe owner awaiting delivery today and after watching this I've got no doubts I'll be able to keep it shaving sharp without spending a ton. Thanks again!
Depending on what you use it for, you might end up snapping that razor sharp edge off.
Wonderful! Thank you for sharing this info. My boys and I have been struggling with sharpening our hatchet and axe. I'm looking forward to testing this method out!
Wow, I really don't ever comment on videos, but damn, I'm impressed!
Thanks, glad you enjoyed.
Good straightforward video on a basic technique from which every outdoorsman, survivor oriented person, or simply anyone who has the responsibilities of keeping their edged tools sharp may gain some extra knowledge. But the "proof of the putting" is such an anticlimax to very much hard and precise work to reprofile and finish a truly sharp and working edge, in my opinion. And I am befuddled each and every time I watch someone, who has spent all that time to properly sharpen an edged tool, prove its worth as the tool it was meant to be, by shaving their arm or slice, dice, and otherwise mutilate a piece of printer paper! I am 78 years old and have been sharpening edged tools at one level or another for probably 69 of those 78 years and I have only used the "arm shaving" technique to show my "great" experience at sharpening once and it wasn't even sharp enough to accidentally "break" off one hair!! I was 11 at the time and I vowed that I would allow the tool to "speak" for itself, in the future, as far as how sharp it was for the job it was meant to do.
And axe was invented and modified down through eons of time with on one goal in mind, to chop, split, dimension, or render a piece of WOOD [ DOUBLE-U OH OH DEE!! ] from raw materials into something of use and value to the owner!! Why all the theatrics with shaving body parts or slicing a sheet of paper down to a pile of shreds which has to be gathered up and thrown in the trash at the end of the infomercial??
Take that axe outside, find a tree, limb, stump, or otherwise piece of wood and chop WOOD, for cryin' out loud ....... Just sayin', it would make a lot more sense to use the tool for what it was made to be used. It's like sharpening a 2 man bucking saw and then using it to CARVE THE Thanksgiving Ham!!
I seriously wonder sometimes how many "manly" guys have demonstrated this resultant technique of sharpening prowess and are wearing scars from the final episode of the demonstration??
This is the best video on using sand paper on youtube. Hands down. No contest. I really like your attitude of listening to music or a podcast and relaxing as you work. It's the attitude of a fine craftsman . . . they love their work and become mesmerized by it . . . . which there are so few of them. Thank you brother. Great post.
Thanks a lot. Glad you enjoyed it. Sharpening can be quite mesmerizing at times. I am more of a novice craftsman so far. Slowly progressing :)
Thank you for your video now I know how to sharpen my axe. I never knew the steps until now. You have been very helpful. God Bless you and your family and have a great day.
Thanks, glad it helped.
Mateeeeeee i have OCD and that polish steps was orgasmic . Nice job
I really enjoyed this no-nonsense, informative and concise video. Will have to try that technique on my Tommy axe tomorrow. That denim sushi looks yummy, by the way. Thank you.
Just bought a council tool hatchet for my shop. Its got a profile but its not terribly sharp. Ill be fixing that this week. Thanks for the good look at how you do it.
What a lovely video. Absolutely lovely to see someone that lovingly loves his hobby.
Lol Such a lovingly lovely comment mate!
Watched one video of a guy making his own log cabin...TH-cam now believes that I am a lumberjack
You know you want to build that cabin! 😂 now you can sharpen the tools
TH-cam is telling you something! Listen to it!!
Awesome video. Exactly the kind of help I need because I'm one of those folks who doesn't want to spend hundreds of dollars on sharpening stones. Thanks for the super clear explanation and the demo.
No worries glad it helped. A file used with the draw filing technique is great if you have a lot of steel to remove. Then refine to desired result.
You could also pick up a two sided stone for 5 bucks and get a decent polish on. Bit more convenient than this method
Nice! Great to see a fellow Aussie doing a no fuss, no bull dust sharing of bloody useful info. good onya mate!
I have a bit of an alternative to propose here. People can become obsessed with sharpness as defined by the microscopic continuity and pointyness of the corner. However if you do sharpness tests such as paper cutting tests, you will find out that there is a bit more to this than meets the eye. Most people don't know this, but serration, meaning the microscopic sized saw shape on a cutting corner can be a good path to cutting as well. medical scalpels for example are purposely not ground sharp, meaning smooth, but ground to have a serrated corner.
Something similar can be applied to most outdoor working tools, from axes to knives or a scythe. I inherited some simple sand stone sharpening stones from my great granddad, these are for the concerns of sharpening fanatics insanely course, but what they do is give any cutting tool a mighty dangerous and sharp serrated corner.
If you go and watch old videos of people bucking and felling with axes you will never see them polishing their axes, however you will see all of them carrying such a simple sharpening stone on their person to retouch their axe while at work.
I can just advice you to try it out!
I carry a small stone and touch up my edge as I go.
I even carry a small diamond 'stone' in my tool belt and hit up my utility knife every so often. It's faster than changing blades :)
This was a GREAT video man... I'm a 3x state champion axe thrower. I ALWAYS kept my 24" double bitted razor sharp as well. I would shave my face just to prove it to people but this brother here is in a different world with his! I'm gonna have to step it up 🤘🏻
Wow man !! Thank you for teaching me this . Guess I found my.mission tomorrow
THANKS FOR THE INSPIRATION,, I AM NOW GOING TO SHARPEN ALL MY AXES & CHISELS & FAVORITE KNIVES THANKS TO YOUR VIDEO.
I can get my hatchet so sharp that I can shave with it. I might use a small worn scrap of emery to polish up the sides, but a reasonably fine sharpening stone will do. The stone I use was given to me many years ago because it was worn like a swayback horse, but it works perfectly for my axe, my hatchet, my cane knife, my adze and any other none-precision tools. You are spending a fortune on emery which is not necessary. Neither do you need a clamp, or work bench. The job can be done perfectly well with just two hands, a stone and some water or hoof and horn oil. Neat's-foot oil in other words. Water works fine, but neat's-foot suspends the stone dust and metal powder off of the stone, so you only need a small amount of it, and it is less likely to drip dirty grindings, as water does, on your hands etc.
Well damn, sharpened 3 axes and a machete and took it up to 5000 grit. So damned pretty and dangerous I hesitated using them. Fooking lethal! Holy crap. Cuts through white pine like a hot knife in butter. Good tutorial. Hats off brother.
You have a good one too.
I have 2 old Plumb double bit axes I found at the base of an oak tree buried in the dirt.
Brought both back to "life ", installed new handles and wrapped fine nylon twine about 4 inches down the handle with 2 or 3 layers soaking it in epoxy.
Made the handles very durable if you struck it on a limb. They would both shave even after repeated use. I had never tried that before, was happy with the results. 40 years later I've replaced the handle on one, about to do the other. Those bits will last generations. Great steel from mid 20th century. Finally made guards from ABS tubing. They tend to cut anything they're against including clothing and body parts underneath. Much safer to carry now.
I was wondering where I left those!!!
My goodness I wished I was this good! That amazing work at sharping and the finish is beautiful
Thanks. Just watch some videos to learn what to do and practice. You will get better.
At around 1500 grit, I said “YES!” Out loud. Looks absolutely amazing.
Man, that's impressive! Thanks for showing us your process.
No worries glad you enjoyed.
Very simple with nice results. Have 3 axes to sharpen. Going to do it exactly as you did. Thank you for this video
Brilliant! There is a 60+ year old Plumb hatchet in the shed that will get this treatment, long overdue. Thank you.
One of the best sharpening videos I've ever seen - and I've watched quite a few! Good job.
Thanks glad you enjoyed :)
Obviously never seen Burrfection.
It is good for an ax to have a concave main bevel. The edge will bite without side slap more readily, and it will be safer.
When I was kid growing up late 60 s and 70 that's all I wanted b b gun s pocket knives an hachet s and the woods god to go back there again god bless American 🇺🇸✌
I grew up in the 80's I also played in the woods and build tree forts with just ax and knives loved the time my brothers and friends had spent camping and playing in the wild . great times.
Sounds like fun :)
Love this guy - he goes on about Safety and then you see what he has on his feet! Ho Chi Mihn sandels / flip flops / call 'em what you will but safe they are not!
I'm trying to restore my grandfather's hatchet, it's green from rust at this point... Re-Profiled it today using a random sharpening stone I have (I don't know the grit) but couldn't make it get a sharp edge (can't cut my hand, and I tried)
Will see if I can get some sandpaper and a piece of leather on a hardware store near my home tomorrow, if not I might have to try purchasing some supplies from the internet (not my preferred option due to delivery time)
Anyways, thanks for the simple video!
Will have to try this on my axes,hatchets,and Tomahawks.
We used to use Brasso, in the military, ... (took forever, but the results were amazing), ...
The Military did a great favor for BRASSO among others $$$
Thanks for taking the time to share with us the way you sharpen that bad boy
No worries :)
Just came across this video. Very nice. I have several Kelly Works axe heads. They are made very well with great steel. Holds an edge for quite sometime. I love to sharpen my axes and knives, it's very relaxing and rewarding.
Yeah they are good axes. I am more of a knife guy. I find it quite relaxing as well. You get comfortable, take your time, listen and feel for the stones feedback. It is quite mesmerizing.
But sometimes you just need to bang an edge on. It is more of a chor when doing that but still fun.
Very nice! 👍 well done sir on the sharp hatchet. I enjoyed.
i have many hatchets . many .
none of them are that sharp . but they will be soon . thanks for sharing .
No worries. I would just recommend doing it on one that you only intend to use for green wood or for carving. Those tasks you do see a benefit. Still have to maintain them to keep them in top shape though.
You get rapidly diminishing returns refining the edge like this for general wood processing. Maybe 400 grit max for that kind of thing.
14:45 You are describing my hatchet. - LOL
I am going to give it to my Grandson who is a Boy Scout so I'm going to put it into shape for him. Thanks for sharing this video showing me how to do that.
Haha thanks. Depending upon the condition of the edge you may have to grind a bevel onto it. The hatchet i had here alreay had an established bevel. If using hand tools using a file like i did here works. But if you have loads of steel to take off then a belt sander with a fresh 40-60 grit belt works great. Then finish up with files and sandpaper/stones.
@Shukin Andjivin Normally I would but he lives 1000 miles away.
Talks about safety while wearing flip-flops. LOL I love it! Good video!
Thanks. Yeah most Aussies are probably a little too layed back in their sheds or home safety wise. Not uncommon for people to split a couple bits of wood in them either.
Yea. I have had that very accident but due to my impatient my blade never became scary shop. But it still hurt like hell
I'm going to be busy next couple days doing my axes and hatchets. Super awesome informative easy to follow, watch and learn from video. Thank you, I've learnt something new and practical for my tools. I normally sharpen just for splitting timber and general bush work collecting firewood.
It shouldn't take that long. But if that is all you are using it for personally I don't bother refining the edge as much as I did in the video. You won't get added benifit for those tasks.
Learning to sharpen well with a file will be plenty for those tasks.
If a good axe I would take it to about 400 grit with either a stone or sandpaper and then strop for maintaining the edge. Or a little pocket stone for maintaining the edge has become a favorite for me at the moment. I just work the micro bevel each time you touch it up. You can do this loads of times before you move high enough into the main bevel and need to address it again.
Hope this helps and have fun.
I have no axe to grind! Thanks for the coating info. You're a big help and encouragement.
cheers, glad you found it helpful.
G'day Scott, nice job There was a saying the old bushmen had about their axes , it's got to be sharp enough to shave a mouse asleep ! 👍🇦🇺 .
Or a beaver.......🙉
I found a similar axe in my garage when I bought my house. Wondered how hard it'd be to fix it up. Gonna give this a try
Howd it turn out?
I mounted my strop on a 30" piece of oak, gluing the smooth side to the wood, and cutting a handle on both ends.
I tried that, but my trousers kept falling down.
Many people just sharpen the very edge. This results in double convex ax that will barely do anything but split kindling. Where you use a piece of coarse sandpaper on a flat stick I would flatten the edge with a fine metal file and then move to the finer grits. Then finish with a leather strop charged with extra fine grinding compound.
Scary sharp hatchets, axes and chisels are so much easier to use. Worth the time.
as a hunter that will spend days in the mountains I find having a scary sharp axe a great benefit. I can use the axe like I would a large belt knife foregoing the need to carry a belt knife. The axe serves for all the big cutting jobs on the animal I have killed and a smaller pocket folder will take care of the more precise cutting I may need.
That is a good point. I didn't think of using a hatchet in that context.
Sounds like a dream going bush for a few days. I don't know anything about hunting or butchering though.
Thanks mate I needed to know how to do this and now I know . Thank you for sharing your knowledge 👍👍👍👍❤️❤️❤️🇦🇺🇦🇺
If given 8 hours to chop down a tree, the first 6 is spent sharpening the axe
I have heard that one. I would prefer to use something a bit coarser if it takes that long to sharpen though lol.
This took me about 30min including messing with the camera. Took a bit longer if you include cutting sandpaper and finding clamps.
I spend 69 hours sharpening my axes
Abraham Lincoln said that. Shame he couldn’t of gotten a Stihl chainsaw and cut the tree down in half an hour.
@Ed B Fake news.
@@scottshobbyz5416 i was looking for how long it took you. Pretty good for that kind of result with rudimentary tools
Thank you. I' gotta go get sandpaper and sharpen the axes and hatchets out here.
I have a beautiful plumb double bit that was my grandpas. It was the first axe I ever used as a kid.
They are beautiful axes. A friend of mine had or has one. I can't remember if he sold it. Interestingly the double bit axes never really took off in Australia. Apparently the wood was too hard and they would bow at the eye of the axe. I don't know if they ever made a thicker one.
Great video, thank you for explaining how to sharpen my old hatchet. I just found it in my old workshop at my ex's house,, it's missing the wooden handle and needs sharpening so it will make a fun project... I was curious after watching your " easy to watch/learn video on sharpening my old hatchet to see how many people watched it.. Holy Cow, I think I'm number 1,260,000? That says a lot about You and your character. So happy I found your channel, I'm now a new subsciber
Love the 'safety-sandles' you have on 😂
Osha approved
Good one Scott, i just use a flap disc on a battery grinder. That works great and takes 30 seconds
I don't put this much effort into my general working axes. Just the ones I treasure.
@@scottshobbyz5416 I can dig that
@@terrysmith7740 flap discs going through the grit grades thats the way. Finish with wet and dry. You really have to love your axe for this dedication.
Helps to start with a great axe!
Good video, thanks for taking the time to make it. I'm in the U.S. so Plumb axes are not that hard to come by. I like many of the handles they used on the vintagec ones. I'm a sucker fit a nice fawns foot! If I find a nice handle that's had nails and other things inserted into the top in an attempt to secure the head, I'll carefully try to remove them, along with the head without destroying the handle. Sometimes you can reuse the handle with a proper wedge. Or, you might be able to trim off 3/8 -1/2 an inch and use it then. You may need to remove a small amount of wood on the handle were the bottom of the head meets the handle. If that won't work, save the handle anyway. I've come across other heads that I could fit a used, cut down handle on. I hang mine with the handle proud on top of the head, like yours. I Sisto prefer to use only wooden wedges, no metal. I've done a few with a second, crossing wedge as well, and I love the way that looks.
Plumb made some axes for the Boy Scouts. I have two with the BSA stamp on them. Plumb hatchets seem so be better splitting heads than carving ones IMO.
If you come across a Nurlund axe head, snatch it up!
Beautiful job. Having great tools like that is a privilege.
Thanks and absolutely. Now I appreciate these tools a lot more. The chip at the top was from when I didn't appreciate it as much. Now I look after it and enjoy it.
Impressive! Going to use this method! Thanks for sharing. Great job ! Hello from Texas.👍
Thanks. I hope it works out for you. Also files and stones work great in this set up and if you already have them they work out cheaper than sandpaper. Just make sure the stones are flat.
I always listen to Molly Hatchet, “Regrinding the Hatchet” album whilst doing this.
Molly Hatchet & "whilst" in the same sentence???
High kudos my brotha!!
😎
Obviously, you know your way around a sharpening stone. Thank you for this nice video
When I sharpen, I take the tool down to clean metal with a rough stone at a shallow angle. My stopping point would be past the burr stage if there are large chips and nicks. I watched that major flaw in the tip of the blade (that you pointed out) go through several levels of sandpaper grit. Not to be critical, but wouldn't it have been better to clean that up with the 120 grit first?
I go from rough at a shallow angle to 1000 grit at 30 degrees, usually with no steps in between. The ceramic hones that I use, made by Spyderco, by the way, are outstanding. I have fine grit hones that I bought 40 years ago that are still in great shape. They create a great razor edge very quickly.
You did a wonderful job of polishing that blade, but a workingman wouldn't have the time to invest.
Overall, you have excellent control of your hands to be able to maintain the same angle without using a machine rest to do so. It took me at least a year, back in 1972-73, to do that.
Very informative. Very satisfying to all the fellow aspies out there I'm sure.
I am very curious as to what the second sentence means. Not being defensive in any way. Genuinely curious if you think I am one or why they would love it. Also how would you get it from a video?
35 years ago my woodwork teacher told me it’s not sandpaper but glass paper now it tends to be oxides good video