Heads up, brother. This video is being used by Amazon to promote the sale of; (DDF lohEF Axe / Hatchet Sharpening Stone 180 / 320 Grit, Professional Whetstone and Tool Sharpener, Axe Sharpener with Portable Bag.) I purchased this puck because of you and this video. The puck turned to mud on my axe blade. Literally globs of red, then white muck dripping off my axe. The puck dissolved instantly during use. I've been sharpening tools and blades for over 50 years, so I know to use gentle pressure when sharpening. Several of my stones have been with me for over 40 years. They're using your video to peddle junk.
Just imagine how many axes are going to be properly sharpened because of your amazing ability to teach things so simply. Great video 😎 🤙 🌴🍍Happy Aloha Friday 🌊☀️
Whatever you're sharpening, moving the stone across the blade, rather than the blade across the stone, is definitely the way to go. So much easier to get and keep the right angles. I use the circular pattern when sharpening knives with a small pocket stone as well. Fantastic results, no more ruined edge geometry.
Great tip .. thanks 👍. I don't have the luxury of a dedicated 'gear room' .. have to 'find' space in a one-bedrooms apartment for my 'stuff'. However .. my 'Man Drawer' .. my share of the bedroom drawer cabinet .. a wondrous space. Has room for my Gransfors sharpening puck, axe, knives, pocket saw, other 'man' odds and sods, a spare engine gearbox, etc, etc 😊. At times I forget what lurks inside it's dark depths 😱. Yep .. Man Drawers .. a unique physics phenomenon regarding the utilization of space ..
I've just received a awesome Sharpen puck in a presentation box as a free gift from a weapons collector now I just want to sharpen all my axes but needed this video for the knowledge to do so ... thanks man I've subscribed 👍
Literally got my gimlet, puck, and stone in the other day. I appreciate the leather case for the stone, its nicely crafted soft leather that adds a touch of coalcracker personality to it. Obsessively sharpening since i got them in. Stay sharp my friends. And thanks Dan!
Hmm yeah I might have a rougher puck. I think it’s grey and... I don’t know some other color or something. It’s in a box in my closet somewhere so that shows how much I use it. However! Maybe it’s time to go pluck the puck from where it’s stuck... wish me luck. I really didn’t mean to rhyme but once I started I couldn’t stop..
Great video as always and very informational. I have two pucks with 4 different grits for my throwing axes. They're always with the axe bag. Hope you're doing well.
I bought one of these and am really happy with how it sharpened. The coarse side wears pretty fast, but that doesn't bother me as it does a great job. I would order another one if Coalcracker still sold them. I've worn mine down to the fine side only. I might give Arctic Fox a try.
Omg I've been using it wrong! Tried this today on my knife!! Works like a charm!! I'm a recent sub and I enjoy all your videos and been suggesting you to all my outdoor buddies!!
I have a flattened round river rock I use as a puck. I rubbed the sides on a coarse bolder to flatten it more. I have used this on my small axes and hatchets. I then strop them with leather. I get them hair shaving sharp. I think I will use the sharpening stones I use on my knives from now on just to make sure the edge is always consistent.
I use sandpaper on a 2x6 block, keeps my fingers close but not too close , so I can go from 80 grit to 2000 if I like. Technique is similar. But on site I would go with the puck.
thanks Dan. Thought you'd have some good videos on this topic, and wasnt wrong. also really liked the one you did recently on handle care. thanks for the info. Keith
I used to use a puck till I got the SHARPAL 216N Dual-Grit Diamond Sharpening Stone. its 220/600 grit. It has a better grip and more surface area to work with plus only $20.
I was just thinking that myself. Too low a grit removes too much metal and can't get too sharp, but I worry that the jump in grit on that particular puck means that I would be spending a long time getting the edge properly sharp. Then again, I guess if you keep your blades sharper and notice when the wear is happening, you would be touching up fairly regularly rather than having to do the whole thing from scratch.
Finally...the secret to sharpening an axe. I've been taking mine to the knife shop all these years cause I could never get it sharp myself...that's a heck of a lotta metal to hone with a little knife sharpener...lol.
Hey man, question - I see you’re sharpening the edge, but what about the small portion right next to the edge? When should you give that attention/what do you do with it? Also, I’m just trying to find out in what cases you’d use the other side of the puck?
Thanks for asking that question, I was thinking the same thing. I have a few knives with tips that have sharp blades but now lack that like new needle sharp point. I don't want it too sharp/pointy, since that's just inviting fragility, but I would like to rebuild it a little bit, and figure out how to maintain it.
The two sides of the puck have different grits: you start with the coarse side if necessary, and the fine side is for finishing or maintaining the edge. The bit next to it, as in behind the edge? You do nothing, unless you want to polish it or whatever, purely for aesthetic reasons. As long as you keep the edge sharp, the area behind it will always be there, it just moves further back as you sharpen, because you’re removing material every time. Of course the business end of your axe will get thicker over time, because of the wedge shape of the axe head, but that’s not something to worry about at all, it would take decades before that becomes an issue.
@@victorquesada7530 The shape of the blade determines the pointiness of the tip. You sharpen the area near the tip exactly the same way you sharpen the rest - there’s no trick, it’s just more difficult because there’s usually a curve towards the end.
Thanks Dan ... I never heard of such a stone.. I'll have to google that and see if they're around... I would think you could use the course side , if you have real bad spot.. just to start and finish with the fine side ??
I like the artic fox puck. Gray side is 220 grit and blue is 440 if i remember correctly. They take some practice to get used to. Works great for any convex edge. The artic fox has rounded edges instead of that steep drop off. I find that works better for me.
I always sharpen my edges in the cut direction, never against or in a circular motion; it was how my father taught me and it has always been the way I've done it, even on chainsaw teeth with a circular file. I do the same thing when cleaning a firearm, passing the wire brush through only in the direction the bullet travels, the same with the cloth. Maybe its just superstition but it seems to me like it trains the metal of the weapon/tool in it's purpose. Regardless, I've had many friends of mine whom I know sharpen in a circular motion come to me to have their knives and hatchets sharpened over the years because they've somehow messed their blades up. Having watched your tutorial, I'm thinking that maybe because I reset every time I slide the blade against the whetstone it causes me to better controlling pressure and bevel angle and they're all just rounding the edges, because I am 100% sure you've got super sharp equipment. Keeping one's attention only on tiny sections of the blade length is probably where all my friends fail. Thoughts?
This is the way I was taught by my grandfather as well with regards to sharpening my nice knives and tools. As for firearms, typically yes from the breach to the muzzle to protect the crowning etc. Now I have a puck and a cheap machete and a pretty cheap axe I use for yard clearing. I do treat them a little worse than my better blades and really scrub circular with a rough puck, just very down and dirty to keep a working edge. something I don't do with my nice blades.
It’s not exactly superstition, but look at how bench grinders work: if you say grinding with the direction of the cut is better, you’re arguing against a whole industry. Also, if you look at how professionals across the whole globe are sharpening their blades, you have to recognise that pushing against the direction of the cut clearly works. However, it does kind of feel wrong, and it’s not difficult to see why: take stropping, for example - when you strop on a piece of leather, you shouldn’t push, because the blade might catch and cut into the leather. It’s very tempting to apply that logic to all the other methods as well, so you end up thinking “it’s probably better to always pull than to push”. There are stories of carpenters sharpening their chisels on the road - literally, on the paved surface of the street. I bet they didn’t push them into the tarmac, either. Or the relatively recent practice of sharpening with sandpaper: you can get your blades razor sharp, but you shouldn’t push, because you’ll catch the paper. All this might lead you to think that pulling is always better. Lastly, imagine you’re the dad or granddad, and you decide to teach the kid how to sharpen stuff: you’re going to have nightmares about them ramming the blade into your precious stones at 45° because they lose concentration or whatever, so what do you do? You teach them to pull, they can do less damage that way. And obviously you will have the kid’s safety in mind: of course pulling a sharpening stone away from the edge is much much safer than moving it towards it. So I’m guessing you’re better at sharpening than others because you do it more often, not because you use a different method.
@@mm9773 Everything you said makes perfect sense, especially about the dangers of slicing into the stop/whetstone. Incidentally, I usually finish a sharpen on a strop, so this last step may be compensating for the less efficient whetstone technique I've been accustomed to. Since I need to sharpen some kitchen knives soon, I'll switch up techniques for the sake of science, as they say.
I had the same problem with "stones" just too rough. And i always used them dry because i thought only japanese stones or that type needed to be wet. But i find the diamond sharpening tools have come down in price. So i just use diamond now.
I've got one of the pucks and I've been trying to sharpen one of my knives on it and I can't seem to get a sharp edge. The stone has plenty of slurry on it so I know it's taking material, it's wet, but the edge isn't getting sharp.
Another tool for the toolbox, or rather a stone for the toolbox, lol. My grandfather actually taught me how to sharpen filet knives like this for big salt water fish, an believe me, you could shave with a knife when he was done with it, thx for the vid.
Heads up, brother. This video is being used by Amazon to promote the sale of; (DDF lohEF Axe / Hatchet Sharpening Stone 180 / 320 Grit, Professional Whetstone and Tool Sharpener, Axe Sharpener with Portable Bag.)
I purchased this puck because of you and this video. The puck turned to mud on my axe blade. Literally globs of red, then white muck dripping off my axe. The puck dissolved instantly during use. I've been sharpening tools and blades for over 50 years, so I know to use gentle pressure when sharpening. Several of my stones have been with me for over 40 years. They're using your video to peddle junk.
Wonder if he got the news
Although a bit late: I'm using the Hultafors puck. Pretty happy with that one. And it doesn't bust the bank. Also provides an even better grip imo.
I see a coalcracker vid, I click thumbs up, then watch it. Never a bad one
Totally, me too
Just imagine how many axes are going to be properly sharpened because of your amazing ability to teach things so simply. Great video 😎 🤙
🌴🍍Happy Aloha Friday 🌊☀️
Can't agree more! In just 10 minutes i've learned how to sharpen my axe quickly and reaaly good.
Love your videos. Bring back Q&A 😉. It's not about the information, it's about the entertainment.
Literally just got my puck from you in the mail yesterday
Perfect timing, thank you! This is a weekend task I had planned. My first time, wish me luck!
Same thing for me. I did like his beer comment. Lol. Good luck with your sharpening.
How did it go? I struggle with sharpening
Whatever you're sharpening, moving the stone across the blade, rather than the blade across the stone, is definitely the way to go. So much easier to get and keep the right angles. I use the circular pattern when sharpening knives with a small pocket stone as well. Fantastic results, no more ruined edge geometry.
Thank you! I needed a reminder. I'm teaching kids in gear maintenance tomorrow-axes and knives so this was perfect timing.
Erasers are great for getting out embedded material from sharpening stones
Are these no longer available?
Just ordered one from you . Hard to find the finer grit puck it seems. That shipping to canada was nuts but hey sharpe tools make me happy
I just ordered some Jerrycans and got raped on shipping. It was ridiculous...
Great tip .. thanks 👍.
I don't have the luxury of a dedicated 'gear room' .. have to 'find' space in a one-bedrooms apartment for my 'stuff'. However .. my 'Man Drawer' .. my share of the bedroom drawer cabinet .. a wondrous space. Has room for my Gransfors sharpening puck, axe, knives, pocket saw, other 'man' odds and sods, a spare engine gearbox, etc, etc 😊. At times I forget what lurks inside it's dark depths 😱.
Yep .. Man Drawers .. a unique physics phenomenon regarding the utilization of space ..
I could stay in the woods for the est of my life. Great video.
Thank you. Just sharpened my axe for the first time. Good lesson.
Best teacher ever!
I've just received a awesome Sharpen puck in a presentation box as a free gift from a weapons collector now I just want to sharpen all my axes but needed this video for the knowledge to do so ... thanks man I've subscribed 👍
Literally got my gimlet, puck, and stone in the other day. I appreciate the leather case for the stone, its nicely crafted soft leather that adds a touch of coalcracker personality to it. Obsessively sharpening since i got them in. Stay sharp my friends. And thanks Dan!
Sorry for being a late comer to this one, but I've been curious about the puck, so thank you.
I wasn't aware that the puck should be wet. Great content.
Cheers!
Hmm yeah I might have a rougher puck. I think it’s grey and... I don’t know some other color or something. It’s in a box in my closet somewhere so that shows how much I use it. However! Maybe it’s time to go pluck the puck from where it’s stuck... wish me luck. I really didn’t mean to rhyme but once I started I couldn’t stop..
"You're a poet, but don't know it ! "
☆
Great video! I just bought one of these pucks from Amazon last night to sharpen my axe and this is a great, straight forward tutorial! Thank you sir!
Thank you for your video
Great video as always and very informational. I have two pucks with 4 different grits for my throwing axes. They're always with the axe bag. Hope you're doing well.
You can clean the puck in the dishwasher without soap (basically a rinse cycle) to clean the pours out.
Pores.
I bought one of these and am really happy with how it sharpened. The coarse side wears pretty fast, but that doesn't bother me as it does a great job. I would order another one if Coalcracker still sold them. I've worn mine down to the fine side only. I might give Arctic Fox a try.
Good video as always. Happy new year.
Brother you are the best!!! Love your attitude and attention to detail. Just purchased a sharpener from your site👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Omg I've been using it wrong! Tried this today on my knife!! Works like a charm!! I'm a recent sub and I enjoy all your videos and been suggesting you to all my outdoor buddies!!
Haha, I've also used beer to wet a stone... No shame in that, let's treat our tools as well as we treat ourselves!
Ironically alcohol is bad for the body. Lol. I do understand what you meant though. Cheers.
@@JSp4wN Alcohol is good, getting drunk as a skunk is bad. :)
@@JSp4wN I think alcohol is fine in moderation. A physician actually prescribed my grandma a beer a night for a few weeks when she had bladder issues.
So no piss? 🥴
You could drink the beer then pee on the stone😏
Nicely done.
Great video, Dan! Thank you
I have a flattened round river rock I use as a puck. I rubbed the sides on a coarse bolder to flatten it more. I have used this on my small axes and hatchets. I then strop them with leather. I get them hair shaving sharp. I think I will use the sharpening stones I use on my knives from now on just to make sure the edge is always consistent.
I use a diamond pocket hone because you don’t have to worry about soaking it and is much lighter to pack out on camping trips
Love the lofi intro.
Great stuff as always dan.
Thanks for the good info
Thanks for the lesson
About to invest in a new axe so this video is conveniently timely, thanks 👍🏻
Very informative video"
Thank you"
I needed this, thanks man
Another great video mate, cheers.
Excellent video! Thank you very much!
Just learned a new way to sharpen knives. so use to the massive rectangle sharpening blocks which i gave up on.
Enjoying your video gives me a better understanding of entry 🤓👍👌
Great Video, much better understanding sharpening my tools
better
Always looking to improve my skills. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you very much for your knowledge about survival!!!!
What about stropping in the field? I have a pretty good set up that works well also.
What about using a strop on an axe?
Excellent question! I wish I had more success using a strop on any of my cutting tools, but I never even thought about using it on an axe.
Excellent presentation on an essential skill! TY
I use sandpaper on a 2x6 block, keeps my fingers close but not too close , so I can go from 80 grit to 2000 if I like. Technique is similar. But on site I would go with the puck.
For those who want a pouch just for the puck the Maxpedition Gear Tactical Can Case is a good fit.
Don't ever spit on a stone that I might pick up. Water is ALWAYS available.
Going to sharpen my axe today!
You’re my hero!!!
Awesome skills.
I've used a Ganfors Bruks puck for years. I use it on knives too. I figured they would know. Well worth $50.
How do you prevent making a bevel on a convex grind, please?
thanks Dan. Thought you'd have some good videos on this topic, and wasnt wrong. also really liked the one you did recently on handle care. thanks for the info. Keith
Hi from Syracuse NY USA
could you send me a link to buy the axe in this video? Thanks for this video! explaining very well! thanks! cheer up!
Have a look at last Felix Immler video on TH-cam : how to make a sharp axe edge . A very good complement to your great video
Thank you
What about diamond (or ceramic) sharpeners?
I used to use a puck till I got the SHARPAL 216N Dual-Grit Diamond Sharpening Stone. its 220/600 grit. It has a better grip and more surface area to work with plus only $20.
I was just thinking that myself. Too low a grit removes too much metal and can't get too sharp, but I worry that the jump in grit on that particular puck means that I would be spending a long time getting the edge properly sharp.
Then again, I guess if you keep your blades sharper and notice when the wear is happening, you would be touching up fairly regularly rather than having to do the whole thing from scratch.
Finally...the secret to sharpening an axe.
I've been taking mine to the knife shop all these years cause I could never get it sharp myself...that's a heck of a lotta metal to hone with a little knife sharpener...lol.
Will a fine metal file work??
Also ~ thank you. Very helpful explanation of the difference and advantages of both styles of stones.
Hi Dan. Thanks once again - good drills - good skills - thanks for sharing. ATB Nigel
Can you share what axe/hatchet you have in the video, please? Thanks!
FINALLY! Amen! 1000 grit all the way!
If I already put honing oil on the puck, is it bad to switch to water for the next time?
Hey man, question - I see you’re sharpening the edge, but what about the small portion right next to the edge? When should you give that attention/what do you do with it? Also, I’m just trying to find out in what cases you’d use the other side of the puck?
Thanks for asking that question, I was thinking the same thing. I have a few knives with tips that have sharp blades but now lack that like new needle sharp point. I don't want it too sharp/pointy, since that's just inviting fragility, but I would like to rebuild it a little bit, and figure out how to maintain it.
The two sides of the puck have different grits: you start with the coarse side if necessary, and the fine side is for finishing or maintaining the edge. The bit next to it, as in behind the edge? You do nothing, unless you want to polish it or whatever, purely for aesthetic reasons. As long as you keep the edge sharp, the area behind it will always be there, it just moves further back as you sharpen, because you’re removing material every time. Of course the business end of your axe will get thicker over time, because of the wedge shape of the axe head, but that’s not something to worry about at all, it would take decades before that becomes an issue.
@@victorquesada7530 The shape of the blade determines the pointiness of the tip. You sharpen the area near the tip exactly the same way you sharpen the rest - there’s no trick, it’s just more difficult because there’s usually a curve towards the end.
I would like that you can bye this stone here in Brazil 😐
where did you get that small stone?
Great content thank you as always wondering about those pucks.... Hey I can't waste my beer money is tight... Thanks again
Thanks Dan ... I never heard of such a stone.. I'll have to google that and see if they're around... I would think you could use the course side , if you have real bad spot.. just to start and finish with the fine side ??
So, does it make a difference if you use oil or water to lubricate the stone?
Yes, water is way less messy and you will always have it on you.
I like the artic fox puck. Gray side is 220 grit and blue is 440 if i remember correctly. They take some practice to get used to. Works great for any convex edge. The artic fox has rounded edges instead of that steep drop off. I find that works better for me.
I always sharpen my edges in the cut direction, never against or in a circular motion; it was how my father taught me and it has always been the way I've done it, even on chainsaw teeth with a circular file. I do the same thing when cleaning a firearm, passing the wire brush through only in the direction the bullet travels, the same with the cloth. Maybe its just superstition but it seems to me like it trains the metal of the weapon/tool in it's purpose. Regardless, I've had many friends of mine whom I know sharpen in a circular motion come to me to have their knives and hatchets sharpened over the years because they've somehow messed their blades up. Having watched your tutorial, I'm thinking that maybe because I reset every time I slide the blade against the whetstone it causes me to better controlling pressure and bevel angle and they're all just rounding the edges, because I am 100% sure you've got super sharp equipment. Keeping one's attention only on tiny sections of the blade length is probably where all my friends fail. Thoughts?
This is the way I was taught by my grandfather as well with regards to sharpening my nice knives and tools. As for firearms, typically yes from the breach to the muzzle to protect the crowning etc. Now I have a puck and a cheap machete and a pretty cheap axe I use for yard clearing. I do treat them a little worse than my better blades and really scrub circular with a rough puck, just very down and dirty to keep a working edge. something I don't do with my nice blades.
That's a cool mindfulness technique. Thanks.
It’s not exactly superstition, but look at how bench grinders work: if you say grinding with the direction of the cut is better, you’re arguing against a whole industry. Also, if you look at how professionals across the whole globe are sharpening their blades, you have to recognise that pushing against the direction of the cut clearly works.
However, it does kind of feel wrong, and it’s not difficult to see why: take stropping, for example - when you strop on a piece of leather, you shouldn’t push, because the blade might catch and cut into the leather. It’s very tempting to apply that logic to all the other methods as well, so you end up thinking “it’s probably better to always pull than to push”.
There are stories of carpenters sharpening their chisels on the road - literally, on the paved surface of the street. I bet they didn’t push them into the tarmac, either. Or the relatively recent practice of sharpening with sandpaper: you can get your blades razor sharp, but you shouldn’t push, because you’ll catch the paper. All this might lead you to think that pulling is always better.
Lastly, imagine you’re the dad or granddad, and you decide to teach the kid how to sharpen stuff: you’re going to have nightmares about them ramming the blade into your precious stones at 45° because they lose concentration or whatever, so what do you do? You teach them to pull, they can do less damage that way. And obviously you will have the kid’s safety in mind: of course pulling a sharpening stone away from the edge is much much safer than moving it towards it.
So I’m guessing you’re better at sharpening than others because you do it more often, not because you use a different method.
@@mm9773 Everything you said makes perfect sense, especially about the dangers of slicing into the stop/whetstone. Incidentally, I usually finish a sharpen on a strop, so this last step may be compensating for the less efficient whetstone technique I've been accustomed to. Since I need to sharpen some kitchen knives soon, I'll switch up techniques for the sake of science, as they say.
Where’d you get the pocket stone?
Great to learn more stuff from you for me sharpening stones for my kitchen and edc knifes. But for any thing bigger I use sandpaper and my finger
Easy I poured beer on it while drinking whiskey
Great video. Enjoyed it very much. I will be breaking my puck out and practicing.
Does your website ship to the UK?
What grit and where do you get the pocket stone?
So would you say 400 grit is not fine enough?
What is the rust color side used for?
If your axe has nicks in the blade or is super dull do exactly as he showed with the rust side. Then repeat with the white side.
I had the same problem with "stones" just too rough. And i always used them dry because i thought only japanese stones or that type needed to be wet. But i find the diamond sharpening tools have come down in price. So i just use diamond now.
So where can I buy a 1000 grit puck???
This guy knows his axe from his elbow
Won't the water make it rust?
I miss your 18th century videos bro bring them back to
I've got one of the pucks and I've been trying to sharpen one of my knives on it and I can't seem to get a sharp edge. The stone has plenty of slurry on it so I know it's taking material, it's wet, but the edge isn't getting sharp.
Probably too coarse a stone / puck.
Try sandpaper or a sharpening stone.
☆
Happy Friday! Great job, brother. Gonna have to pick up a puck!
You can get pucks from higher grit or harder natural stones. I'm pretty sure they make pucks of Belgium Coticules and Arkansas novaculite stones.
Puck ya! Ordered one from you bro. Add it to my others.
April 19th Monday 2021
Great information !!! Thank you for sharing !!! Looking forward to your next video !!!
❤️❤️❤️👍👍👍♥️♥️♥️
Another tool for the toolbox, or rather a stone for the toolbox, lol. My grandfather actually taught me how to sharpen filet knives like this for big salt water fish, an believe me, you could shave with a knife when he was done with it, thx for the vid.
I have a old puck its all grey
Thanks for that. Might still leave the puck out the pack though lol