Just bought the veloce as a beginner climber and I love them, I paid £100 ($125 ish) for the extra £20-£30 it seems like a superior product to a beginner shoe and worth the extra cash. I went for the laced version, my foot is wide with a high bridge. The velcro strap version felt really flimsy and did not keep my foot secure in the shoe. I'm a Size 42-43 euro and bought a 41.5 size, after the 1st climb (indoors) my toes were in bits 😅 but by the second climb they were much better. I think its a great beginner, intermediate shoe that you can use as you get more technical as you progress with your climbing 👍
The Veloce is a perfect fun low key session shoe. 1.5 to 2 sizes down should be considered since I think they actually increase in size quite a bit. One thing I would like to add is that the heel is bigger than in any other Scarpa shoe. If you have a slim heel this probably won’t be the shoe for you. I also strongly agree that the rubber is one of the stickiest of all those out there.
Also really like the Veloce as an all day shoe that is pretty good for all-round indoor climbing. I don't love the velcro strap. I wore down one of the attachment points pretty fast. Might try the laces in the future. My pair is ready for a resole. I hope that the strap will be fixed as well. Only downsides for me: On slabby climbs with tiny feet it is really strenuous for your toes. But at least you get stronger 😉 Also sometimes in a roof a bit more power can be helpful. The heel is pretty baggy and can deform quite a bit on technical heel hooks. But I mostly make it work. But great shoe for 95% of indoor cllimbing.
Most confortable shoe i have ever worn ! Not the most precise but since they are really soft, their perform best on smears anyway. 9/10 shoe even for experienced climbers, the only issue is the velcro which never stays. I personnaly just cut it off so it doesn't stay in the way.
I really like these shoes for indoor climbing on plastic and volumes. I bought mine in same size as my street shoes, perfect for my quite stiff toes that really don't like being crammed in crazy tight and aggressive climbing shoes. I agree in basically everything in the review. However, the sole and rand takes a lot of beating because they are so soft. I will definitely ask for stiffer rubber when I resole them.
This show sounds like it ticks all my boxes! I’ve been finding my Five Ten Niad lace a bit too stiff and uncomfortable to wear inside. So as it’s coming to winter something comfortable and a bit more performance will be great 👌🏻
The Veloce are the best shoes I{ve had, they are absolute all rounders and super super good for indoor AND outdoor. Ive climbed some of my hardest boulders and routes with it. Not thje best heel for certain holds that could be painful, but still good enough heel for most cases
These were and still are my first personal climbing shoes, I have them in the same size as my big toe doesn't allow for cramming. They are very very comfortable and sticky shoes. Great for indoor bouldering, used them in switzerland on some fresh granite once and wore half of the sole down lol. The only thing that bothers me is that the heel is a little too spacious making me suspect i'm not nailing strong heel hooks as well as I could!
Have loved my Veloces. First shoe I ever got and it's only now, a year later, that I'm starting to look for replacements. I've only had two, quite minor, issues with them. Number one is that the heel shape just doesn't work for me, I have them pretty perfectly sized for my toes but I have air in my heel. So it starts slipping around inside the shoe when doing strenuous heel hooks. The second is the velcro strap. When the heel fits like mine does you have to choose if you want to close the velcro towards the back, locking that in slightly better but leaving you with a looser fit for your front foot. Or the opposite, sliding around in the heel but your toes being locked in just right. With that said, if the heel was my shape I'd easily have gotten the new lace up version. They're totally comfortable enough to never take off in a 2-3h bouldering session indoors!
I don't understand why they are men v women's shoes as opposed to high v low volume. Surely that would make more sense? I have both velcro and lace, 2 EU sizes down from normal shoes. Laced ones bought 6 months after and fit exactly the same, so no stretch at all. These are the only ones I could find for wide feet, square toe box. Great shoe!
These are my first climbing shoes I bought, they are very comfortable like you said, I have quite big feet, size 12 US and when trying them on the best fit I could find the heel of the shoe still has a lot of space in it but I don't really find it a problem as when I heel hook something it just squishes against the hold anyway and creates plenty of friction. When I tighten them the tightest I can, I end up with a lot of strap left over flapping around, almost like I could trim it with scissors. Maybe I didn't size correctly or would have been better off trying the women's version. They are very grippy on volume! Downside of the shoe are 1. tiny foot holds - as the rubber is very soft. 2. toe hooking - there isn't much protection on the top of the shoe so the top of my foot gets really sore if I do it too much.
If you have a wide foot (I'm a 6e) like an actual wide foot that you've measured on a Brannock device street size is perfect. These stretch to fit but don't break in much. I will wear these for 3-4 hours straight in the gym without even thinking about taking them off. Even though they don't have a point like more aggressive shoes, they are so sticky so it pretty much makes up for it. Wouldn't use these at the crag though.
I am really hyped for this shoe tho I am not sure what is the difference between lace and strap? I am rather on slim foot side and low on the brigde. I am currently having old Boreal Joker lace and I love the fit and how they surround my feet. I was opting to have a strap after my current shoes for fast on/off, but if laces means better fit that's a no brainier for me. Please help :)
Soy principiante me los acabo de comprar media talla menos y me va perfecto. Estoy usando un 41 y en Nike soy un 42 por ejemplo. Lo siento ajustado y cómodo. Quizás pueda apretar un poco más pero creo que todavía no estoy preparado y busco comodidad ante todo para conseguir aumentar mi nivel.
Damn, I really love Scarpa and therefore believe EVERY. SINGLE. WORD. said about the shoe but the bogus stuff about "shoe performance" really grinds my gears. I climb Scarpa Origins since I started a decade ago and according to climbing media like this one, I must still be a bloody beginner, no matter my usual grades. Funny how its never my feet failing me, although my shoes are only good for what, according to people doing review-ads? 5a? So, if any real "beginner" reads this: When you find a good shoes, dont fret yourself about getting "professional" ones later. There is a high chance of it beeing pure waste of money and comfort ;)
Just bought the veloce as a beginner climber and I love them, I paid £100 ($125 ish) for the extra £20-£30 it seems like a superior product to a beginner shoe and worth the extra cash. I went for the laced version, my foot is wide with a high bridge. The velcro strap version felt really flimsy and did not keep my foot secure in the shoe. I'm a Size 42-43 euro and bought a 41.5 size, after the 1st climb (indoors) my toes were in bits 😅 but by the second climb they were much better. I think its a great beginner, intermediate shoe that you can use as you get more technical as you progress with your climbing 👍
The Veloce is a perfect fun low key session shoe. 1.5 to 2 sizes down should be considered since I think they actually increase in size quite a bit. One thing I would like to add is that the heel is bigger than in any other Scarpa shoe. If you have a slim heel this probably won’t be the shoe for you. I also strongly agree that the rubber is one of the stickiest of all those out there.
Also really like the Veloce as an all day shoe that is pretty good for all-round indoor climbing.
I don't love the velcro strap. I wore down one of the attachment points pretty fast. Might try the laces in the future. My pair is ready for a resole. I hope that the strap will be fixed as well.
Only downsides for me: On slabby climbs with tiny feet it is really strenuous for your toes. But at least you get stronger 😉
Also sometimes in a roof a bit more power can be helpful. The heel is pretty baggy and can deform quite a bit on technical heel hooks. But I mostly make it work.
But great shoe for 95% of indoor cllimbing.
Most confortable shoe i have ever worn ! Not the most precise but since they are really soft, their perform best on smears anyway.
9/10 shoe even for experienced climbers, the only issue is the velcro which never stays.
I personnaly just cut it off so it doesn't stay in the way.
I really like these shoes for indoor climbing on plastic and volumes. I bought mine in same size as my street shoes, perfect for my quite stiff toes that really don't like being crammed in crazy tight and aggressive climbing shoes. I agree in basically everything in the review.
However, the sole and rand takes a lot of beating because they are so soft. I will definitely ask for stiffer rubber when I resole them.
This show sounds like it ticks all my boxes!
I’ve been finding my Five Ten Niad lace a bit too stiff and uncomfortable to wear inside. So as it’s coming to winter something comfortable and a bit more performance will be great 👌🏻
The Veloce are the best shoes I{ve had, they are absolute all rounders and super super good for indoor AND outdoor. Ive climbed some of my hardest boulders and routes with it. Not thje best heel for certain holds that could be painful, but still good enough heel for most cases
so we calling everything under 200 USD affordable now?
maybe that relatively word cuts it?
Inflation my G
These were and still are my first personal climbing shoes, I have them in the same size as my big toe doesn't allow for cramming. They are very very comfortable and sticky shoes. Great for indoor bouldering, used them in switzerland on some fresh granite once and wore half of the sole down lol. The only thing that bothers me is that the heel is a little too spacious making me suspect i'm not nailing strong heel hooks as well as I could!
They are amazing on plastic 💪 I also think that this rubber is one of the best for smearing. I wore them during most of my competitions 😊
Have loved my Veloces. First shoe I ever got and it's only now, a year later, that I'm starting to look for replacements. I've only had two, quite minor, issues with them.
Number one is that the heel shape just doesn't work for me, I have them pretty perfectly sized for my toes but I have air in my heel. So it starts slipping around inside the shoe when doing strenuous heel hooks.
The second is the velcro strap. When the heel fits like mine does you have to choose if you want to close the velcro towards the back, locking that in slightly better but leaving you with a looser fit for your front foot. Or the opposite, sliding around in the heel but your toes being locked in just right.
With that said, if the heel was my shape I'd easily have gotten the new lace up version. They're totally comfortable enough to never take off in a 2-3h bouldering session indoors!
If I have seen correctly, Michi Wohlleben climbed the shoe in his short film at the EOFT on the winter ascent.
I don't understand why they are men v women's shoes as opposed to high v low volume. Surely that would make more sense?
I have both velcro and lace, 2 EU sizes down from normal shoes. Laced ones bought 6 months after and fit exactly the same, so no stretch at all. These are the only ones I could find for wide feet, square toe box. Great shoe!
These are my first climbing shoes I bought, they are very comfortable like you said, I have quite big feet, size 12 US and when trying them on the best fit I could find the heel of the shoe still has a lot of space in it but I don't really find it a problem as when I heel hook something it just squishes against the hold anyway and creates plenty of friction.
When I tighten them the tightest I can, I end up with a lot of strap left over flapping around, almost like I could trim it with scissors. Maybe I didn't size correctly or would have been better off trying the women's version.
They are very grippy on volume!
Downside of the shoe are 1. tiny foot holds - as the rubber is very soft. 2. toe hooking - there isn't much protection on the top of the shoe so the top of my foot gets really sore if I do it too much.
This shoe is perfect, the same as your review! Got mine and downsized 2 sizes from street shoe size. 👌🏻
If you have a wide foot (I'm a 6e) like an actual wide foot that you've measured on a Brannock device street size is perfect. These stretch to fit but don't break in much. I will wear these for 3-4 hours straight in the gym without even thinking about taking them off. Even though they don't have a point like more aggressive shoes, they are so sticky so it pretty much makes up for it. Wouldn't use these at the crag though.
I am really hyped for this shoe tho I am not sure what is the difference between lace and strap? I am rather on slim foot side and low on the brigde. I am currently having old Boreal Joker lace and I love the fit and how they surround my feet. I was opting to have a strap after my current shoes for fast on/off, but if laces means better fit that's a no brainier for me. Please help :)
Essentially for a good fit on the heel go for the laces. But the strap does the job at wrapping up the middle of the foot really well
Very much like the discontinued Scarpa Arpia but with S72 rubber as appose to XS Edge 2. The velcro system looks identical
I have both, in the same sizing, they feel completely different
@@adrienl4949 That’s good to know. What’s the difference in fit? I love my Arpias
Soy principiante me los acabo de comprar media talla menos y me va perfecto. Estoy usando un 41 y en Nike soy un 42 por ejemplo. Lo siento ajustado y cómodo. Quizás pueda apretar un poco más pero creo que todavía no estoy preparado y busco comodidad ante todo para conseguir aumentar mi nivel.
My friend has these. He climbs pretty hard, and he wears them even with a blown out toe LOL I think he ordered another pair though
superb review!
Downsizing a soft shoe too much defeats the point, at least according to Heinz Mariacher. Tighter is not necesseraly better
That is true, but he is talking about downsizing true measured size not street shoe.
Veloce in 2 sizes down are more comfortable for me than Instincts in street shoe size. I would have tons of space if I would buy street shoe size.
Damn, I really love Scarpa and therefore believe EVERY. SINGLE. WORD. said about the shoe but the bogus stuff about "shoe performance" really grinds my gears. I climb Scarpa Origins since I started a decade ago and according to climbing media like this one, I must still be a bloody beginner, no matter my usual grades. Funny how its never my feet failing me, although my shoes are only good for what, according to people doing review-ads? 5a?
So, if any real "beginner" reads this: When you find a good shoes, dont fret yourself about getting "professional" ones later. There is a high chance of it beeing pure waste of money and comfort ;)
I climb in crocs