What Shoes Do Professional Climbers Use?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.ย. 2024
- EDIT - It’s been pointed out Janja Garnbret only uses the Five Ten Hiangle’s and not the Hiangle pro’s as stated in the video. Another helpful comment has pointed out it is possible Janja was using the hiangle pro tokyo edition and based on the colour I think they may be correct.
EDIT 2 - It’s been pointed out that Tomoa Narasaki often switches to the Unparalleled TN - pros for slabs. So for other climbs in the comp he was probably using the flagship pros.
EDIT 3 - It’s been pointed out that Collin Duffy actually uses the Evolv Zenist Pro LV’s.
What Climbing Shoes Do Professional Climbers Use? I did my best to find the shoes that each climber in the finals of the Keqiao 2024 world cup used.
World Cup Keqiao 2024 Analysis
Sorry if I got some wrong :)
pretty sure tomoa use flagship pro most of the time, he was only using the TN pro on the slab
Thanks ! Will add it to the description.
Makes sense. All of these shoes are ultra soft rubber which excels on volumes and plastic holds.
How do you watch any IFSC comps and get so many of the name pronunciations wrong
A shoe from the sponsor, to answer the question. 😉
So, there wasn't a single person wearing Drago LV?😮
Wait how do you only have 20 subs? This is pretty high quality!
Oh I didn’t realize it’s your first video 😂 Still, this is really good. I’ll keep an eye out for future videos!
Hahaha thank you :)
I think Janja is using the hiangle pro tokyo edition which fits the colour and she is not using the normal one but this is just my guess.
I have had a look at this as well and think you might be correct I will add it to the description. Thanks for the help :)
@@WeClimbWalls they are custom for her if you look at the sole its full length and the strap is different. pretty sure they are actually the same as the pre adidas hiangles like the red ones but just in the color of the new ones
the womens hi angle is that colorway now
1:55 Colin actually uses the evolv zenist pro
Oh! thank you so much will add it to the description :)
Crazy how it’s basically impossible to even buy a pair of Hiangles or Hiangle Pros. Is Addidas in the climbing shoe game anymore???
How do you get everyone's names so badly wrong. You started by saying you watched loads of comps? Was the volume turned down?
only max and toby use hiangle pros. Janja wears the regular hiangles
Thanks for pointing this out :) I have added an edit in the description.
Janja is actually a weird case. Cause if you compare the shoes on her feet with a hiangle in the official Adidas website pics or even in your own hands (I have a pair of those - great shoes btw) it’s very different. I believe her shoes are a special version made specially for her. They look more like the classic Hiangles - from FiveTen before Adidas - with the new color scheme and a few tweaks. Miho Nonaka uses a custom version of the Hiangles as well.
Colin Duffy also uses the Zenist Pro LV
Thanks ! Will add it to the description :)
5.10 (Adidas) pay the most for sponsorships. Rumor has it some of their climbers will go so far as resoling their brand new shoes to put better rubber on them. Lots of climbers seem to like Scarpa or La Sportiva; they fit well, have real leather options and good build quality.
That said, as someone who has bought 30 pairs of climbing shoes in the past several years, the best shoes are the Mad Rock Drone 2/CS, Mad Rock Shark 3, and various Unparallel shoes, depending on what suites your needs.
Mad Rock's heel hook and toe hook capabilities are unmatched and the concave sole makes it very powerful for edging and clawing at holds, but that sole can then work against it when smearing. As a result, I will occasionally use La Sportiva Theories for particularly tricky comp style boulders.
I'm really curious to try the shoes La Sportiva made for Adam Ondra for the Olympics, but with La Sportiva and Scarpa raising their prices in the U.S. so much I have trouble justifying any of their shoes at this point.
Would be cool to also do this for a lead comp as well as for some famous outdoor ascents like adams, sebs and jakobs respective 9c ascents, some ascents of burden, megos' bibliogaphy, adams' and chris' dura dura ascents, etc.
Fun edit!
Tenaya is the real goat
Your pronunciation of the names is borderline insulting.
I wonder if the trend has changed in this short period of time. I see a lot of new shoes.
Jacob scoobert is craaazzzyy😂
Ocun, let's gooo!
Good work!
Otsun
why ocun? saltic is slightly better
Italians do it better
Anze Peharc ... Damn bro how did you manage to pronounce that like that .. Slovenian is hard, but that wasn't even an English way to say that last name ..
That is not how it works with the shoes so this video can be a bad advice for new climbers, if you put La Sportiva Solution Comp or Skwama on complete beginner with minimum experience and training in will make them hurt so much and not perform good. Unless you climb like V5+ you will do much better with beginner oriented shoes like Katana from La Sportiva, they provide much better support.
Yeah, this is a great point. The video was just to see what professional climbers are wearing at competitions. Sorry for any confusion
Really good video, good work
@@WeClimbWallsit was clearly meant sarcastically.. lmaoo great vid