Alright mate, I see the injector cleaning set doesn't have a reamer, is it a completely necessary tool, or would I be ok be a kit similar to the one you've linked above? I have one very similar to it.
@@diydaly Sound, there’s a diesel leak from either 3 or 4, but no codes (but noisy and weak in low gears, so I’m guessing a seal kit would be a first step?
Have just done this. Get the engine HOT as you can! Had to re-fit 3 injectors to run the engine again to then remove the 4th one. The Sealy VS2040 puller or Laser 7525 tool also make it easier. Thanks for the video!
Stoked...! That's the Re-con Injector from Germany put in, and she runs fine. Need to go down my Local Wee Garage and let them Code in replacement injector tomorrow. It looked as if someone had been in there before. Thank you very much for your help checking those Torque values, and for taking the time and effort of making the Video. Doing it myself, with your advice saved me hundreds (possibly Thousands) in Labour charges getting old injector out.
Thanks for the video. Heres a tip when re-using the steel injector lines. Put a little Wellseal on the male part, being careful not to get any inside the tube.
Great video - thanks. I was gritting my teeth when you finally got the injector out. If it was me that little bit of the clamp would have gone down the hole for sure!
Hi, great video of this job, just wish the link you show for the copper washer extraction tool kit was correct. You link doesn't show the full kit you use just the slide hammer on its own, so no injector seal cutter tools available
Excellent video, very informative, but in your link it doesn't say which reaming tool you used . Do you remember the size ? I'm having a nightmare with oil around injectors even though I've changed everything for genuine . Just didn't re seat it . Thanks
Can't understand why you didn't remove the clamp first before attacking no 2 injector with an air hammer? no 1 injector was loose so you could easily have removed it first instead of breaking it? Also did you not think maybe it would have been a lot easier if you soaked it in penetrating fluid (plus gas) first?
Neat little engine. Still fairly crammed engine bay. My Volvo V70 with the 5 cylinder 2.4L engine offers more space and better access, although the engine is fairly tall so getting to the AC compressor and turbocharger in the back is only really possible from below and the long nose of the car makes it hard for a not so tall person to access the injectors. The engine is slanted backwards it would be too tall for the engine bay otherwise. My favourites are the 1.9PD Diesel dead simple engine really and the Mercedes OM611 since them are longitudinal.
Mine came out with gentle prying, using the adjacent head bolt. Thankfully all the copper seals came too. I’m at 460,000km and they’re the original injectors, so I’m getting them all done. The one that packed up is surely not the only one feeling tired. I was wondering how to clean the seats, because leaking seats are the main reason for them seizing in place, so I didn’t want to just drop new seals in there and hope for the best. I didn’t know there was a specific tool, so thanks for that. This is my first time doing it myself on a common rail engine, though I have seen it done, a few times. I’m very surprised how tight you had to make the saddle clamp. Mine were not noticeably tight, coming out. Certainly not tight enough to stretch a bolt. I got them with a 1/4” drive ratchet! It’s all I had, with an 8 spline key. I was expecting to use an adapter, to tighten it back down with the same 1/4” drive spline key, but I think it would shear off at that torque. I feel some new tools coming on!
Update: I got the cleaning kit and it had quite a lot of stuff in it that I didnt need for this, but will doubtless be glad of, at some point. Also got a new 1/4" torque wrench, because none of mine go down to 7N/m, as instructed by VW, when I bought the new bolts. Interestingly, the reconditioner had me put them back in a different order. He reckons no2 and no3 got transposed at some point in the past and it should really have flagged an error. I did as ordered and didnt need to code them. It runs much better than at any time in my ownership. The bolts were only €5 from the dealership, so definitely better to go genuine for those. The last wrinkle, for me, was tge leak off pipes. I did it your way yet still screwed up the retaining clip, somehow, with the result that it blew the pipe out on the test run, making an expensive, smelly mess. After a clean up, I was able to extract the clip, put the pipe back in and secure it properly, without losing the clip down the engine. Fiddly, but better than pulling the injectors again.
Initially only tighten the fastening screws with MAX: 1 - 2 Nm. After installing the high-pressure lines. Final tightening torque: 8 Nm + turn further 180°. And why do you not adapt the minimum deviation quantity for the injectors?
Elsawin states 8Nm + 180 degrees for the CAY engines I see that autodata is telling ppl 270, probably why I see so many broken bolts in the bearing cover 😂
Great video, very informative however folks don't use the socket on the fitting with the extension bar on the injector as it will snap like it did with me. I would suggest using a proper pulling tool if it really tight. Now I've got to find a replacement fitting for the injector. NIGHTMARE
I chuckled while watching the sped up section as you were Obs talking as I could hear the squeaky voice, I dead to think what you were saying 🙊 that was proper stuck.
I have a Passat b-7 2.0 tdi (common rail), the oil level rises, sometimes it does not start well when cold, when the engine is warm, it starts well, two injectors are wet, could the reason be in the rem kit of injectors? Thank you.
I have changed all of my fuel injector a month ago my slef but I didn't recode the data does that effect the performance? Answer would be much much appreciated 😊😊
excellent vid, i need to replace one injector as well. Question, where the dirt goes when you clean the injector hole with that tool and air gun? is that tool required?
Love the channel bro. Always very helpful. Can I ask, after using your injector bore seat cleaning tool, you put an air compressor in there… after you said to be careful about blowing stuff around and into the head, as it was open and not closed off on the way down. Do you not reckon you could blow stuff into the wrong places by loosening the dirt and then sticking a compressor into it ? Best wishes, look forward to your response, Adam.
Hi DIYDaly, I managed to replaced my injector! I think I did a good job thanks to you but I forgot to bleed out the air inside the fuel system. After starting the engine one of the fuel return lines popped out with diesel coming out. Did you have to bleed yours? How do I do it? I have got white smoke coming out from exhaust and misfiring engine. Any help is appreciate it
@@diydaly Yes. I did the coding using VCDS. I am starting to think ot is a bad EGR valve! I managed to get the below values from VCDS. Injector Quantity Deviation Cylinder 1 = -1.0933mg/stroke Injector Quantity Deviation Cylinder 2 =1.5006mg/stroke Injector Quantity Deviation Cylinder 3 = -2.6509mg/stroke Injector Quantity Deviation Cylinder 4 = 2.4872mg/stroke
Hi, slightly off topic but same engine question.Have you come across the common problem of VW/AUDI 1.6 TDI common rail engine tick and rough idling when cold first start? I have performed VCDS full scan but no faults stored.This would appear to be ECU injector control related. Do you have any guidance or experience on how to solve this annoying issue.
Hi, I have a VW Golf mk6 1.6 tdi cayc,after using VCDS to run a IDE 06141 Adapting injector minimum deviation test which failed to compleat. Now my car runs lumpy at first start up when cold.I have also noticed a strong smell of diesel from exhaust but no white or black smoke. On a 55mph run my fuel economy has reduced from approx 56mpg down to 44 mpg, So it would appear l have a over fuel problem after this failed ecu check. As all was good before l carried out this IDE 06141 VCDS check. Any ideas as to what l should check to find out what has changed,in order to try and fix this problem? Running VCDS scan no fault codes are present,so fault is not setting any fault codes. Any help would be most appreciated. My
Had a very interesting talk to a VW mechanic when my 2014 Caddy went in for a service. He said that all VWs are ECU programmed to all fail namely the EGR valve, then the Glow plugs, then the injectors before it gets to 100k
Can I sugest using a vacuum cleaner when removing injector and cleaning out the bore. I use a wet and dry vacuum which will suck up oil and bits of metal etc.
Probably one of the best videos I have watched. Silly question, after using the cleaning tool, do you actually blow up the debris or is it suck in? Min 15:15
Yet another question,is it better to remove fuel injectors from a vw tdi engine CAYB- CAYC when the engine is hot/warm?. Or better to wail till engine is cold.I am wondering about expansion of Aluminium cylinder head more than steel fuel injectors. What has been your experience do you have a preferance of when to do this opperation?
Just took my audi a1 1.6tdi to garage and they said it has a leaking fuel injector, but as the car the is only needed for a year or two just to leave it
Interestingly your steering fault lamp came on by changing injector No. 2. I've just completed the same replacement and my steering lamp also came on during 1st restart. Thankfully it cleared itself again once the steering was turned under power. Like another person who commented on here I too would NOT go 270 degrees after the 8Nm torque, 180 is fine. and well tight enough. And on that point, of all things I would not advise buying none genuine stretch bolts. Quality control standards may not be met by copies and you risk an unnecessary shear off. Furthermore you may find they are also cheaper from an Audi dealer rather than VW. I paid less than £4 each.
My vw sharan (14 2.0 TID) playing up, engine temp hoover around 80 even on long drives, from couple of months it’s started to go into limp mode, showing injector two open circuit, additional heater fault, engine light n glow plug light on but then all of sudden it drives fine lights disappears. Bought it less than a year ago can’t afford to spend thousands nor get rid, any suggestions be appreciated. Thank you
The 1.6 looks more complicated than the 1.9. I've been working on 1.9 and it's a sinch, although I did learn to fit parts on gassers with my dad. My tiny diesel isn't too complicated. Even the drive shafts come out easily.
Hello ! I have one cayc 1.6 and have change injector (2 & 4) A2C9626040080 while 1 & 3 are the problematic 27b. After change last cyl nr 2 , car working good but is shaking a litle on idle and high gear low aceleration. like 80 km/h at 4gear or 5 gear only when put acelerator max down it shakes. What can i do to improve stability, just change the others 2 injectors ?
Just hoping my mechanic can find one from a breakers for an airbag control module, and hope it's much cheaper than VW, who said it will cost 700 euro for a new one.
@@guychappelle7651 arr right yeah I know exactly what you mean now! Thought you meant a spring washer!! That’s the retainer spring to pull the oil seal in
Hi would you know if the topdon arti diag 500 is ok to put fault codes out on injectors and problems with other cars ? Thanks.Also would i definitely need to cut the injectors seats back in any info would be great 👍
For for the late response mate! Been of I’ll for a few days! I’m not 100% sure about the artidiag 500 , I know it will read and clear the faults but not sure if it will do the coding.. usually a good clean of the seats will suffice , the kit I use is really good value for money; I’ve put a link in my video description to it
Would cpl knackered injectors in my mk3 Skoda 1.6 tdi stop it from starting? It won’t start but if I put a cpl sprays of easy start I starts but turn it off and it won’t start again??
Hello mate i got similar engine similar injectors but the leak off pipe clips come off again n again i changed the pipe and still comes off nearly 3 of injectors can u suggest something please. Thank you
Your videos are great bud, thank you for the content, can you confirm the injector seat cutter size you used , I seemed to not have the correct size in my kit, I'm guessing 15mm seat 17mm shoulder 👍
Can these injectors leak from the top?? Let me explain, working down from where the electric connector plugs in, there is a smooth surface, and then there is a hexagon shape, can it leak from the top of the hexagon?? As that to me seems to be where mine is leaking, as that is the highest wet point, and it's only wet on one injector at this point, So can it leak there, or is it just an illusion, or a chance it is getting wet there from a leak else where????/
@@diydaly So not likely then, that hexagon shape is just to put a tool on it for moving the whole injector, it doesn't actually come apart at that point, it's all one solid piece, so can't leak..... is what I'm thinking... so yea, probably a return line..
@@diydaly Really, I dunno if it does come apart there or not, I thought the hexagon was purely there as a place to place a spanner as to wiggle the injector when removing it, as it's not threaded in, just pushed in, and needs wiggling to loosen.
Hi mate - great video. Same issue as yourself, sheared the injector clamp when removing! Just a quick question regarding coding in, are there any consequences to starting the engine and driving without coding in injectors first? Might need to drive it to a garage with vcds tools to get it done once new ones are in. Cheers
Cheers. Got them coded in and injectors calibrated etc. Less than 10 miles and another one of the "new" refurbs went. Circuit malfunction. Think I'm done with this engine...
@@robbie6983 I’d skip refurbs if I was you. If you want to save money then best going to a Breakers yard and getting them there. The price for new ones has come down a lot, but still pricey.
@@danyo1972 Yeah learned this the hard way unfortunately. But luckily got my money back after a second refurb went barely doing 20 miles again. Refurbs are not the answer for this
Are there any alternatives to these injectors my god they are so expensive £345 from ecp with discount code the 2.0tdi bosh injector is around £180 surly someone clever has come up with a cheaper solution
Hi mate I’ve got a Audi A3 2L TDI and one of my injectors are leaking what looks like oil around it it’s not a bad leak tho would this cause a high idle for instance sometimes the idle stays on 1k RPM and can feel the car shake and feels like there’s a loss of power also getting white smoke sometimes when I floor it I’ve had it plugged in no codes for anything I put some diesel system cleaner in tank still no difference 1 day car is normal then it’s not any suggestions mate I’ll leave a video on my TH-cam of my car if anyone can help Thanks for the videos btw 👍🏼
They are just oil seals for the rocker cover so shouldn’t cause any idle issue mate , odd though as it’s sounds like an injector fault your having , maybe one on its way out.. you might find it gets worse
I know this is late pal but I had the exact same issue oil pooling uo near the injectors, got it checked out by my mechanic it’s the rocker cover which is supposed to keep in the oil that’s losing its Seal which is losing oil and also the injector seals which also need doing
mine does exactly the same as yours, I still can't find the issue, then, the DPF lamp came on and the car doesn't run over 2k rpm.... don't know what to do
@@ikilic9353 I sold my Audi a3 because of it and bought a golf mk6 and the same thing happened again lol so I done some more research it ended up being the DPF trying to regenerate so I took it on the motoway for a good run 30 miles it runs perfect now trust me take your car for a good run add some good quality DPF cleaner in your tank before you do it 👍🏼
Hi Great Video I'm in this World of Hurt now. . . . . Managed to get Injector out, got a Re-Con from Germany. Found various Torque for the Stretch Bolt, guess it needs to be tight to squash the copper compression washers down. . . . . 7Nm and 180 degrees 8Nm and 180 degrees & your 8Nm and 270 degrees. . . . . . . . Could you guide me to the Source, manual. . . . ?
@@diydaly what if I reuse the upper, uncrewable part of injector (where the plastic connection harness is located). Could that be a short-cut solving the problem?
@@anderskedegard6799 neh it will damage it if you separate it mate , you can try it without coding first see if it runs ok if not just find a small independent garage that’s prepared to do the coding for you
Ehm, don't you have to loose both injectors? I mean the claw is locking both, injector one and injector two. So you have to loose both of them step by step to get them out without needing so much force and breaking the claw.
Almost a shame speeding up through all the attempts to get the injector loose. I almost wanted to hear all the swearing. It would have made me feel better about when I did mine.
New Vag injector puller - diydaly.co.uk/products/ct6383-diesel-injector-remover-for-vag-tdi
New Fuel injector Ebay - ebay.us/YZHlnQ
New Injector clamp - ebay.us/15Gy6f
New stretch bolt - ebay.us/bvNuMB
Diagnostic machine used in this video:
Topdon Phoenix lite 2 Ebay - ebay.us/tsyiTI
Topdon Phoenix lite 2 Amazon - amzn.to/3dxuQQl
Check Euro car parts - tidd.ly/3lIO7xA (use discount codes on site)
Check "Car Parts for Less" - tidd.ly/2LNEwIn (use discount codes on site)
Tools used:
Socket set - ebay.us/7tUKdM
Digital Torque wrench - amzn.to/34kpI9y
Torque Wrench - amzn.to/2VZ4CKu
Screwdriver set - amzn.to/30RA53L
Spanner set - amzn.to/2DlwUZm
Injector cleaning set - amzn.to/3grvnPB
Injector seal removal tool - amzn.to/2O9d7P7
Ring Inspection Lamp - amzn.to/3gGWHcG
Triple square socket set - ebay.us/VVgTRV
Air vibration hammer / chisel - ebay.us/niKsPx
Needle nose Pliers - ebay.us/GPQZjx
Prybar set - ebay.us/LNtJ1M
Bonnet lamp - ebay.us/3y0gGv
Injector clamp bolt torque setting:
stage 1 - 2NM
stage 2 - 8NM
stage 3 - 270 degrees
Alright mate, I see the injector cleaning set doesn't have a reamer, is it a completely necessary tool, or would I be ok be a kit similar to the one you've linked above? I have one very similar to it.
@@Jim_Kay. yeah it’s not Essential mAte , I very rarely use it on these engines
@@diydaly Sound, there’s a diesel leak from either 3 or 4, but no codes (but noisy and weak in low gears, so I’m guessing a seal kit would be a first step?
@@Jim_Kay. yeah check that and the return hoses
Best video on VAG injector replacement tutorial,many many thanks for making this video you are awesome
Thanks for the comment
Have just done this. Get the engine HOT as you can! Had to re-fit 3 injectors to run the engine again to then remove the 4th one. The Sealy VS2040 puller or Laser 7525 tool also make it easier. Thanks for the video!
👍👍 thanks ill check them out
Stoked...!
That's the Re-con Injector from Germany put in, and she runs fine.
Need to go down my Local Wee Garage and let them Code in replacement injector tomorrow.
It looked as if someone had been in there before.
Thank you very much for your help checking those Torque values, and for taking the time and effort of making the Video.
Doing it myself, with your advice saved me hundreds (possibly Thousands) in Labour charges getting old injector out.
Nice one , no probs 👍 glad to help
Thanks for the video. Heres a tip when re-using the steel injector lines. Put a little Wellseal on the male part, being careful not to get any inside the tube.
Great video - thanks. I was gritting my teeth when you finally got the injector out. If it was me that little bit of the clamp would have gone down the hole for sure!
Thanks! Haha
Hi, great video of this job, just wish the link you show for the copper washer extraction tool kit was correct.
You link doesn't show the full kit you use just the slide hammer on its own, so no injector seal cutter tools available
Thanks , I’ll check into that , must have changed
Excellent video. Followed your step by step video and it was a dream. Luckily my No2 Injector came out without any hassle. Thank you
Nice one, glad it helped👍👍
Excellent video, very informative, but in your link it doesn't say which reaming tool you used . Do you remember the size ? I'm having a nightmare with oil around injectors even though I've changed everything for genuine . Just didn't re seat it .
Thanks
Can't understand why you didn't remove the clamp first before attacking no 2 injector with an air hammer? no 1 injector was loose so you could easily have removed it first instead of breaking it? Also did you not think maybe it would have been a lot easier if you soaked it in penetrating fluid (plus gas) first?
Because you cannot get the penetrating fluid down to the injector bore - the rocker cover is in the way !
Do not recomend going to 270 degreese if injectors have been out before, as i just had the threads in the head pull out before it reached that torque
Neat little engine. Still fairly crammed engine bay.
My Volvo V70 with the 5 cylinder 2.4L engine offers more space and better access, although the engine is fairly tall so getting to the AC compressor and turbocharger in the back is only really possible from below and the long nose of the car makes it hard for a not so tall person to access the injectors.
The engine is slanted backwards it would be too tall for the engine bay otherwise.
My favourites are the 1.9PD Diesel dead simple engine really and the Mercedes OM611 since them are longitudinal.
👍👍
Mine came out with gentle prying, using the adjacent head bolt.
Thankfully all the copper seals came too. I’m at 460,000km and they’re the original injectors, so I’m getting them all done. The one that packed up is surely not the only one feeling tired.
I was wondering how to clean the seats, because leaking seats are the main reason for them seizing in place, so I didn’t want to just drop new seals in there and hope for the best. I didn’t know there was a specific tool, so thanks for that. This is my first time doing it myself on a common rail engine, though I have seen it done, a few times.
I’m very surprised how tight you had to make the saddle clamp. Mine were not noticeably tight, coming out. Certainly not tight enough to stretch a bolt. I got them with a 1/4” drive ratchet! It’s all I had, with an 8 spline key. I was expecting to use an adapter, to tighten it back down with the same 1/4” drive spline key, but I think it would shear off at that torque. I feel some new tools coming on!
Update: I got the cleaning kit and it had quite a lot of stuff in it that I didnt need for this, but will doubtless be glad of, at some point. Also got a new 1/4" torque wrench, because none of mine go down to 7N/m, as instructed by VW, when I bought the new bolts. Interestingly, the reconditioner had me put them back in a different order. He reckons no2 and no3 got transposed at some point in the past and it should really have flagged an error. I did as ordered and didnt need to code them. It runs much better than at any time in my ownership.
The bolts were only €5 from the dealership, so definitely better to go genuine for those.
The last wrinkle, for me, was tge leak off pipes. I did it your way yet still screwed up the retaining clip, somehow, with the result that it blew the pipe out on the test run, making an expensive, smelly mess. After a clean up, I was able to extract the clip, put the pipe back in and secure it properly, without losing the clip down the engine. Fiddly, but better than pulling the injectors again.
Initially only tighten the fastening screws with MAX: 1 - 2 Nm.
After installing the high-pressure lines. Final tightening torque: 8 Nm + turn further 180°.
And why do you not adapt the minimum deviation quantity for the injectors?
Elsawin states 8Nm + 180 degrees for the CAY engines I see that autodata is telling ppl 270, probably why I see so many broken bolts in the bearing cover 😂
Great video, very informative however folks don't use the socket on the fitting with the extension bar on the injector as it will snap like it did with me. I would suggest using a proper pulling tool if it really tight. Now I've got to find a replacement fitting for the injector. NIGHTMARE
I chuckled while watching the sped up section as you were Obs talking as I could hear the squeaky voice, I dead to think what you were saying 🙊 that was proper stuck.
haha! yeah I was cursing bit 😂😂 did have a fellow mechanic with me chatting too 🤣
Mine went at exactly the same mileage as this one 96k. Changed all four and it’s like a new van now.
👌👍
You can buy injecter puller only £50 very simple and easy to use do not use air chisel it can crack the rocker cover and cause a oil leak
I’ve since bought the puller , you’ll see a link to it in the description 👍
Information from the "Elsa" program (M6 bolt tightening torque) - 8 H.m. + 180° ;)
I have a Passat b-7 2.0 tdi (common rail), the oil level rises, sometimes it does not start well when cold, when the engine is warm, it starts well, two injectors are wet, could the reason be in the rem kit of injectors? Thank you.
I have changed all of my fuel injector a month ago my slef but I didn't recode the data does that effect the performance? Answer would be much much appreciated 😊😊
Evening
one of mine finally gave up the ghost 134k
all original
just wondering how much and where did you get your full set ?
appreciated
Daz
Should i do an injector adaptation cycle after replacing one injector ? Ive coded it in everything is running perfect.
if you've coded it should be good to go
@@diydaly was a new injector anyways 🤙
excellent vid, i need to replace one injector as well. Question, where the dirt goes when you clean the injector hole with that tool and air gun? is that tool required?
A small amount goes in the bore , you really want to a Avoid it but the blow gun will get most out .. you can try it without
Very informative video and well filmed thank you, this is just what I was looking for for my first attempt at undertaking the same job
glad it will help 🙌
@@diydaly what size of the cleaning/cutter tool you use for that?
@@robsonenduro3316 I’ll try check mate , was a while back I did this one now
@@diydaly
Can you let me know if injector can be cleaned and also is coding essential or can work without it
@@TonyWise-f1n should really be coded , they can only be specially cleaned by an injector specialist
Love the channel bro. Always very helpful.
Can I ask, after using your injector bore seat cleaning tool, you put an air compressor in there… after you said to be careful about blowing stuff around and into the head, as it was open and not closed off on the way down. Do you not reckon you could blow stuff into the wrong places by loosening the dirt and then sticking a compressor into it ?
Best wishes, look forward to your response, Adam.
Thanks mate , yes it’s a tricky one I usually try bung the hole while I clean the worse off
Hi DIYDaly, I managed to replaced my injector! I think I did a good job thanks to you but I forgot to bleed out the air inside the fuel system. After starting the engine one of the fuel return lines popped out with diesel coming out. Did you have to bleed yours? How do I do it?
I have got white smoke coming out from exhaust and misfiring engine. Any help is appreciate it
👍 you shouldn’t really need to bleed it, it might crank a while but should fire up ok? Did u do any coding?
@@diydaly Yes. I did the coding using VCDS. I am starting to think ot is a bad EGR valve! I managed to get the below values from VCDS.
Injector Quantity Deviation Cylinder 1 = -1.0933mg/stroke
Injector Quantity Deviation Cylinder 2 =1.5006mg/stroke
Injector Quantity Deviation Cylinder 3 = -2.6509mg/stroke
Injector Quantity Deviation Cylinder 4 = 2.4872mg/stroke
Hi, slightly off topic but same engine question.Have you come across the common problem of VW/AUDI 1.6 TDI common rail engine tick and rough idling when cold first start? I have performed VCDS full scan but no faults stored.This would appear to be ECU injector control related.
Do you have any guidance or experience on how to solve this annoying issue.
Hello!
Please i have a problem in my injectors every time one of them get down if there's any solution ?
I have caddy TDI 1.6
i had same seized injector , blooming sleeve came out with the injector , nightmare , such a good feeling when its out though
🤣 yeah they can be a nightmare at times!
Hi, I have a VW Golf mk6 1.6 tdi cayc,after using VCDS to run a IDE 06141 Adapting injector minimum deviation test which failed to compleat.
Now my car runs lumpy at first start up when cold.I have also noticed a strong smell of diesel from exhaust but no white or black smoke.
On a 55mph run my fuel economy has reduced from approx 56mpg down to 44 mpg,
So it would appear l have a over fuel problem after this failed ecu check. As all was good before l carried out this IDE 06141 VCDS check.
Any ideas as to what l should check to find out what has changed,in order to try and fix this problem?
Running VCDS scan no fault codes are present,so fault is not setting any fault codes.
Any help would be most appreciated. My
Great tutorial. Is this a CAYA, CAYB or CAYC engine? I ask this because i believe the torque for the clamp bolt is different.
I think it was CAYA but will try check back to confirm
Hi! and where can I find the torque (Nm) of which engine (caya, cayb, cayc)? thx
Had a very interesting talk to a VW mechanic when my 2014 Caddy went in for a service. He said that all VWs are ECU programmed to all fail namely the EGR valve, then the Glow plugs, then the injectors before it gets to 100k
makes you wonder sometimes!
Why? Did anyone at VW explain?
I've done 180,000 miles in my VW and had one injector go in that time.
Done 130k and only one injector had just gone off that list.
Yes that’s correct so far with me and my van is only 69000 miles
Almost experienced two of the list points
brilliant video as always
Thanks!👍
Can I sugest using a vacuum cleaner when removing injector and cleaning out the bore. I use a wet and dry vacuum which will suck up oil and bits of metal etc.
👍
Probably one of the best videos I have watched. Silly question, after using the cleaning tool, do you actually blow up the debris or is it suck in? Min 15:15
👍👍 thanks , blow it with the hole bunged up
@@diydaly Brilliant, thanks mate!
Hi DIYDaly, is the fuel system under pressure before removing the 17mm high pressure lines? Will the fuel come out splashing?
Not when it’s not running
Yet another question,is it better to remove fuel injectors from a vw tdi engine CAYB- CAYC when the engine is hot/warm?.
Or better to wail till engine is cold.I am wondering about expansion of Aluminium cylinder head more than steel fuel injectors.
What has been your experience do you have a preferance of when to do this opperation?
engine warm sometimes helps , laser do a puller for them that works well! ebay.us/JSSUZK works on a few other injectors too
Just took my audi a1 1.6tdi to garage and they said it has a leaking fuel injector, but as the car the is only needed for a year or two just to leave it
Interestingly your steering fault lamp came on by changing injector No. 2. I've just completed the same replacement and my steering lamp also came on during 1st restart. Thankfully it cleared itself again once the steering was turned under power.
Like another person who commented on here I too would NOT go 270 degrees after the 8Nm torque, 180 is fine. and well tight enough. And on that point, of all things I would not advise buying none genuine stretch bolts. Quality control standards may not be met by copies and you risk an unnecessary shear off. Furthermore you may find they are also cheaper from an Audi dealer rather than VW. I paid less than £4 each.
Tighten my clamp bolts to only 10Nm, is it to low?
A litlle but sceptic to add aditional torque...
Made now arround 45.000km, seems fine
Ive listed the correct settings in my description mate
Hi, sure its 8nm + 270degrees and not 8nm+180 degrees ? cant find any document on it.
Saludos desde Malaga Spain buen video !! Estaba duro ese inyector!! Gracias por ese video y por el trabajo bien echo 🎉!! 🇪🇸🔧⛽🍻
My vw sharan (14 2.0 TID) playing up, engine temp hoover around 80 even on long drives, from couple of months it’s started to go into limp mode, showing injector two open circuit, additional heater fault, engine light n glow plug light on but then all of sudden it drives fine lights disappears. Bought it less than a year ago can’t afford to spend thousands nor get rid, any suggestions be appreciated. Thank you
Possible injector injector wiring harness , might be worth checking it’s not got a recall , they did have some injector issues
The 1.6 looks more complicated than the 1.9. I've been working on 1.9 and it's a sinch, although I did learn to fit parts on gassers with my dad. My tiny diesel isn't too complicated.
Even the drive shafts come out easily.
What does the pipe to the left of the Diesel return pipe on injector number 1 do? Can be seen at the 1.34 mark
not quite sue tbh mate, ill check it out next time ive got a 1.6 tdi in! not had one in for a few days
Hello ! I have one cayc 1.6 and have change injector (2 & 4) A2C9626040080 while 1 & 3 are the problematic 27b.
After change last cyl nr 2 , car working good but is shaking a litle on idle and high gear low aceleration. like 80 km/h at 4gear or 5 gear only when put acelerator max down it shakes.
What can i do to improve stability, just change the others 2 injectors ?
When blowing out the injector port with the blow gun what if you blow carbon into the cylinder ?will this cause any engine damage
Possible , obviously you need to be carefully sometimes I’ll block the hole with a screwdriver , I very small amount would harm anything
@@diydaly OK thanks
Just hoping my mechanic can find one from a breakers for an airbag control module, and hope it's much cheaper than VW, who said it will cost 700 euro for a new one.
I’m changing mine and laying down in the bottom after taking them out were a spring metal o ring, any ideas where that’s from?
Never seen that before! Shouldn’t have a spring washer in there 😬
@@diydaly they’re normally in the seals that the injector goes through to keep there shape apparently
@@guychappelle7651 arr right yeah I know exactly what you mean now! Thought you meant a spring washer!! That’s the retainer spring to pull the oil seal in
@@diydaly that’s the one, wasn’t sure how to describe it
is it necassary to tourqe the injector clamp? Just wondering as i dont have a tourqe wrench
Definelty recommended but you can do it without
here i am back again, a month later and another injectors gone love it
@@Gabasto 🤣 arr noo! Mega common issue arnt they 😖
Hi would you know if the topdon arti diag 500 is ok to put fault codes out on injectors and problems with other cars ? Thanks.Also would i definitely need to cut the injectors seats back in any info would be great 👍
For for the late response mate! Been of I’ll for a few days! I’m not 100% sure about the artidiag 500 , I know it will read and clear the faults but not sure if it will do the coding.. usually a good clean of the seats will suffice , the kit I use is really good value for money; I’ve put a link in my video description to it
Have you ever changed the injector bolt oil seal in the rocker cover?
Yeah quite a few mate , there’s a choice of 2 different types to be aware of 👍
@@diydalythanks buddy mine is leaking and causing oil pooling around injector 1 and 2.
@richardstokes755 I have that problem too . Its the only thing I haven't changed
Good one, some full engine build up please
👍
Would cpl knackered injectors in my mk3 Skoda 1.6 tdi stop it from starting? It won’t start but if I put a cpl sprays of easy start I starts but turn it off and it won’t start again??
it should fire up still Id of thought, check the fuel filter for metal debris.. also check the in tank fuel pump is working
@@diydaly yeh that’s my next job tomorrow as it it comes up as a low pressure code and there’s a lot noise coming from in tank pump
@@soapsstevo1670 👍👍
Juist one question, how much did VW charge for the injector.
Was around £500
what is the deal with the zero at the end ? cant get a answer for that anywhere
depends on the amount of digits needed , sometimes your just need to put a zero at the end that all
Excellent video, especially as my Skoda has a very similar engine. 😊 Thanks.
Cool, thanks 👍👍
Could an injector leak fuel over night and cause blue smoke on start up only
Possibly , these normally fail electronically
Hello mate i got similar engine similar injectors but the leak off pipe clips come off again n again i changed the pipe and still comes off nearly 3 of injectors can u suggest something please. Thank you
Did you replace it with the genuine VAG hose
So, no cleaning of the injector seat on cylinder 1, and no new copper seal?
I didn’t on this one as I only had 1 seal but it’s is advisable to do both .. I’ve done it like this loads of time tbh and never had the other leak
Your videos are great bud, thank you for the content, can you confirm the injector seat cutter size you used , I seemed to not have the correct size in my kit, I'm guessing 15mm seat 17mm shoulder 👍
Thanks 👍😃👌. yeah im fairly sure thats right mate.. I try check the kit tomorrow when im at work 👍
@@diydaly thanks mate 👍
Why didn’t you replace the seals on No 1 injector as you have to disturb it. As a rule I always replace them just in case but that’s me 👍
yeah it is recommended mate! I have done on many occasions, just decided not to as it has very recently been done
@@diydaly yea I see where your coming from thankfully I’ve not one being that much of a bitch to get out
Why not put a smear of vaseline on the copper seal to keep it in place
That can work well too
Can these injectors leak from the top?? Let me explain, working down from where the electric connector plugs in, there is a smooth surface, and then there is a hexagon shape, can it leak from the top of the hexagon?? As that to me seems to be where mine is leaking, as that is the highest wet point, and it's only wet on one injector at this point, So can it leak there, or is it just an illusion, or a chance it is getting wet there from a leak else where????/
Possibly .. I’ve never had that before though.. most likely the return hose fitting
@@diydaly So not likely then, that hexagon shape is just to put a tool on it for moving the whole injector, it doesn't actually come apart at that point, it's all one solid piece, so can't leak..... is what I'm thinking... so yea, probably a return line..
@@isaackent2355 I’d say it will come apart there but yeah most likely the return line
@@diydaly Really, I dunno if it does come apart there or not, I thought the hexagon was purely there as a place to place a spanner as to wiggle the injector when removing it, as it's not threaded in, just pushed in, and needs wiggling to loosen.
Hi mate - great video. Same issue as yourself, sheared the injector clamp when removing! Just a quick question regarding coding in, are there any consequences to starting the engine and driving without coding in injectors first? Might need to drive it to a garage with vcds tools to get it done once new ones are in. Cheers
Neh you should be fine doing that mate , I’ve not done it myself but I’ve known other drive for 10/20 miles after without coding
Cheers. Got them coded in and injectors calibrated etc. Less than 10 miles and another one of the "new" refurbs went. Circuit malfunction. Think I'm done with this engine...
@@robbie6983 arr no what a disaster 😖
@@robbie6983 I’d skip refurbs if I was you. If you want to save money then best going to a Breakers yard and getting them there.
The price for new ones has come down a lot, but still pricey.
@@danyo1972 Yeah learned this the hard way unfortunately. But luckily got my money back after a second refurb went barely doing 20 miles again. Refurbs are not the answer for this
bonjour a vous, pourquoi t'en de probleme pour sortir cette injecteur avec difficulté. merci a votre réponse
👍👍
Hi, is it a big problem if i haven't got digital torque? Can i use to tighten stretch bolt using just ratchet wrench?
you can use a normal torque wrench, no problem doing it without.. its just advisable .. jus be careful not to over tighten it
Thanks for reply and video.
@@tomasras 👍
Are there any alternatives to these injectors my god they are so expensive £345 from ecp with discount code the 2.0tdi bosh injector is around £180 surly someone clever has come up with a cheaper solution
Yeah I know! ive not found many a lot cheaper yet 😬
@@diydaly im dreading the day when my turn comes to replace 1 or more
@@sonicboom4053 😬
Sometimes they are really hard to get out even with a sliding hammer I have tried wd40 over night 😮
👍
Makes it any difference, that you drive usually short distances or long distances, in the fact that your injector is more or less seazed?
Not really tbh mate
Is it really that important to torq the clamb bolt?
Advisable but not imperative , just don’t over do it as they are stretch bolts
at least much more space then of 1,6 HDI engines especially in 207,208 and similar where you cannot operate normally
thanks for vlog 👌 . How many miles where on the caddy bud ?
sure it was around the 100,000 mile area mate
Hi mate I’ve got a Audi A3 2L TDI and one of my injectors are leaking what looks like oil around it it’s not a bad leak tho would this cause a high idle for instance sometimes the idle stays on 1k RPM and can feel the car shake and feels like there’s a loss of power also getting white smoke sometimes when I floor it I’ve had it plugged in no codes for anything I put some diesel system cleaner in tank still no difference 1 day car is normal then it’s not any suggestions mate I’ll leave a video on my TH-cam of my car if anyone can help
Thanks for the videos btw 👍🏼
They are just oil seals for the rocker cover so shouldn’t cause any idle issue mate , odd though as it’s sounds like an injector fault your having , maybe one on its way out.. you might find it gets worse
I know this is late pal but I had the exact same issue oil pooling uo near the injectors, got it checked out by my mechanic it’s the rocker cover which is supposed to keep in the oil that’s losing its Seal which is losing oil and also the injector seals which also need doing
@@rm9207 yeah sold Audi got mk6 now same engine and same problem lol injector seal needs changing must be a common problem with them 👍🏼
mine does exactly the same as yours, I still can't find the issue, then, the DPF lamp came on and the car doesn't run over 2k rpm.... don't know what to do
@@ikilic9353 I sold my Audi a3 because of it and bought a golf mk6 and the same thing happened again lol so I done some more research it ended up being the DPF trying to regenerate so I took it on the motoway for a good run 30 miles it runs perfect now trust me take your car for a good run add some good quality DPF cleaner in your tank before you do it 👍🏼
Hi
Great Video
I'm in this World of Hurt now. . . . .
Managed to get Injector out, got a Re-Con from Germany.
Found various Torque for the Stretch Bolt, guess it needs to be tight to squash the copper compression washers down. . . . .
7Nm and 180 degrees
8Nm and 180 degrees
& your
8Nm and 270 degrees. . . . . . . .
Could you guide me to the Source, manual. . . . ?
What's your reg number and ill double check.. thanks
@@diydaly
Dude. . . ?
Put my Reg number up on this website...? No, can't do that.
2012 Caddy 1.6td
Are you on the VAG system.....
@@alexmacdiver I’d need the exact engine number to check that’s all .. I use a reg lookup on autodata ..
@@diydaly Cheers ;-) I'll mail it over
@@alexmacdiver replied
Excellent video👍
Thanks 👍
No need priming fuel lines?
Just cycling the ignition a few times should be suffice
@@diydaly, thanks for replying. Is it essential to "code" new injector when installed?
@@anderskedegard6799 yeah , there do really need coding
@@diydaly what if I reuse the upper, uncrewable part of injector (where the plastic connection harness is located). Could that be a short-cut solving the problem?
@@anderskedegard6799 neh it will damage it if you separate it mate , you can try it without coding first see if it runs ok if not just find a small independent garage that’s prepared to do the coding for you
What happen if i close more 270° ?
that's just the recommended torque , hard to say mate
Nic video sir 👌👍
All time good work
Thanks a lot 👍👍
Ehm, don't you have to loose both injectors? I mean the claw is locking both, injector one and injector two. So you have to loose both of them step by step to get them out without needing so much force and breaking the claw.
Any idea why the injectors are coded? Is it an attempt by manufacturers to stop non main dealer repairs? Or is there a legit technical reason 🧐
Im not 100% sure tbh mate
@@diydaly The "coding" is actually a flow calibration for each individual injector so that the ECU can adjust the injector pulse accordingly.
@@Max-dr6yr 👍 thanks max
mines the same but code p0201
Only problem i can see is! He broke the aluminium sadle bracket because he should of teased the "both injectors" out "together!"
Easier said than done when it’s siezed solid
Week later another injector needs replacing, good ole 1.6tdi 😂
Haha 🙈
Almost a shame speeding up through all the attempts to get the injector loose. I almost wanted to hear all the swearing. It would have made me feel better about when I did mine.
Haha yeah it was abit of swearing going on!!
One week before you start putting w40 every day on Base and it comes out easy
Volumes wank at times
Very bed ingen German